Thanks for watching the video. If you ever need more DIY Ford Focus videos, please check out the full playlist here, and bookmark it for future use: ua-cam.com/play/PLof3-wBOirGEWyRrHvNZ6NVJHgpAEn7y-.html
Just had a quick pop to your video playlist after watching this video and noticed you have not posted for 6 months. Just wanted to drop by and say your presentation is outstanding, and you should continue making videos as they're very enjoyable to watch. You have a unique way of presenting. Cheers
This is the one job that I want to do myself but it really daunting to me cuz I don’t want to mess it up. I have most of the tools except the timing tool and the tool to hold the sprockets. This awesome video really put a lot of my fears to rest and I’m going to tackle this in the near future. Thank you for this clear and instructional video.
Thanks Paul, I appreciate you saying so, and for watching the video. If you ever need more DIY Ford Focus videos, please bookmark and check out the full playlist here: ua-cam.com/play/PLof3-wBOirGEWyRrHvNZ6NVJHgpAEn7y-.html
@ Hi mate I have a ford transit connect with a 1.8 black top focus engine in it. Just recently the engine runs fine on tick over, but when I go to drive it, it starts running up to 4000 rpm I’m having to use my brake and clutch to keep the revs down in traffic or at lights. Sometimes I have to turn the engine off. I cleaned the throttle body but still the same. Any ideas welcome. Thanks for sending the video list. Cheers Paul.
@@paulh8769 Hey Paul, a high idle could mean a vacuum leak somewhere. The ecu could be compensating for a leak, thinking that if the revs are lower the engine will stall. I can't be sure not seeing the car personally, but that's where I would start looking... other easy jobs might be to replace your cam angle sensor at the back of the rocker cover, and clean the mass air flow sensor inside the air intake. Hope that helps 👍
@@Horus_Works Hi Horus, I also fitted a new throttle position sensor and still the same. There is no engine light coming on either. I did reset the ecu by disconnecting the negative terminal and connecting it to the positive and not done many miles since then. I also bought an iac valve but not fitted it as it’s an absolute nightmare to fit without a lift. When I first used my scanner on it , it came up with a P1000 code. Anyway I’d just like to say thank you for the replies and support and also for you taking the time out for recording these excellent videos for everyone. Cheers Paul.👍👍.
@@paulh8769 appreciate you saying so mate, and sorry to see that you're still having trouble. Whatever your problem will be, I'm willing to bet it's either electronic (a sensor somewhere) or it's vacuum leak related. I hope you manage to track it down soon 👍
wow I absolutely love your channel you have arranged everything just how I like in a clear good understanding method most videos on UA-cam just show how to do this job with the engine out of the car so nice to see you doing it like the DIYer brilliant!
Thanks Alex, I appreciate you saying so mate. It took twice as long to do with all the filming, but I knew that it was worth showing it for others to see. I appreciate your comment and support 😀
hi mate , love you're videos, this is my second time watching this video, as I enjoyed it , and also I have a mk 6 fiesta , very similar to the mk1 focus, thanks again, please keep making your videos ,👍👍 from Tony from Bedfordshire england
I am about to attempt this job on a 1.8 litre. I am not a mechanic by any stretch but found this video to be more instructional than all the videos out there. You have my sub and keep up the excellent work mate. Have a good one:-)
@@PropanePete How are you mate. I did give it a crack but found there were multiple bent valves due to the idle pulley letting go at 110 KPH. I replaced the idle pulley before attempting any other repairs and did the timing as per instruction in the hope that no damage was done. Alas, when the idle pulley let go the timing belt spun multiple teeth i am imagining and catastrophy struck. Had to weigh up the economical benefits of replacing head. etc with the value of the car and it would have been a waste of money. I think it maybe have come back as a washing machine or fridge. lol. Yeah, had to let it go to the scrap yard unfortunately. It wasn't my car but my young brothers car. I found a 2004 Focus for $300 that needed a clutch so got that repaired and cars going well to this present day. Cheers:-)
Appreciate you saying so, and for watching! It's always good to see that the videos are useful 👍 There are lots of other Focus Mk1 DIY videos here if you ever need them: ua-cam.com/play/PLof3-wBOirGEWyRrHvNZ6NVJHgpAEn7y-.html
Really good and well put together video like all your others, I'm probably going to have to do this on my own Mk1 soon and it makes me feel like I might almost be able to do it, haha. I hadn't even noticed the tool kits existed for the price they do either.
Go for it! I thought this was super-scary to do as well, and then I did it! It's not difficult at all, just make sure you have everything ready, and check your next step before you do it. Have fun :)
@@Horus_Works It did always seem like the number of steps was maybe the worst thing for a relative newbie, rather than any part being super difficult. Hopefully that's how it turns out, thanks for the advice!
Very nice video, one of the better ones I've seen on this job. Why didn't you replace the water pump while you were in there? The timing belt has to come out to replace the pump so it seems this is the time to do it.
Thanks so much for your nice comments 👍 I replaced the water pump as well, but this was in a separate job/video: ua-cam.com/video/ktZY29VX390/v-deo.html
Thanks for your comment mate. I don't have the 1.6 but from what I hear quite a few things are different... I'd definitely try to find more info. Hopefully someone else can also comment on here.
Hey brother! So...Coolant leaking looks like the 2 3/16" freeze/expansion plug failed on the front of the engine. Seeing as I have to remove the timing belt, I'll be using this video now. 🙂 Doing everything you show in this video, along with new valve cover gasket too. It looks like the crank seal and the cam seal are the same, did you notice a difference? I have the new ones in front of me now, maybe a slight difference. Once again, your videos are saving me. Thanks!!!
Hey Jake, good to get the restoration update! I didn't notice a difference between the seals, but that's not to say that they are different or the same - I just didn't pay much attention to that since I had them all ordered and lined up. Once you have this thing sorted your Mk1 will be good to go for years! Good to see another one saved 😃
do you have to take out the spark plugs? just the ignition leads should be enough right? you just need to align camshaft in top dead center hence why the rocker cover comes off?
If you take the spark plugs out, it will be a lot easier to rotate the engine. With the plugs in, when you rotate the crank, you will be fighting against the compression of the pistons.
Love my pacific green mk1 focus done so many jobs on it and followed a couple of your video's along the way which are great by the way only thing left to do is my very noisy clutch slave cylinder bearing 😢😢😢😢😢😂😂😂😂
Hi buddy, happy new year 2022. Question for you on another topic. Can't select reverse gear on my focus. Clutch is fine, can't select reverse gear. Seems to be the lift gate on the gear stick and 4th and 2nd gear selection have worsened. Any advice or videos you might recommend. BTW, very useful videos. Thanks.
Hi mate, Happy NY. My car has not had this issue so I cant offer an informed comment, but it sounds to me like your gearbox selector cables may be bad. They do tend to stretch or break over time so you might want to start looking there first. It goes from the top of the gearbox to underneath your shifter in the car. Good luck mate, hope you find the problem.
Great video very similar process that I've recently carried out on my mk1 1.6. Slight differences no idler pulley and different tensioner design on the sigma. The only thing is say is if your focus is an automatic getting a decent Impact gun with at least 800nm of torque is essential to remove the crankshaft pulley. I'm lucky to own a milwaukee m18 and I had to use the top setting at 1900nm to release the bolt. Someone used tonnes of locktite on the bolt which really isn't necessary🤔
Hey Andy, thanks for the great comment mate. Super helpful, which is great, I hope the comments section helps people get these jobs done just as much as the vids do, so I appreciate your tips!
These are Vibra Technics mounts from the UK. A lot stiffer that the OEM mounts, which means a little more vibration comes through, but they are much better at stopping engine flex.
I see that you had an oil leak in the front when you removed the timing tool (20:57). Do you know what was leaking? An oil leak is creating a huge mess in that area for me right now and I think it is the PCV catch tank seal to block that is leaking.
Hi, yes for me it was the PCV system that was leaking. I had a bad PCV hose there which I replaced in another video. The oil was dripping down from the PCV pipe into this area. I would suggest you have a look at all of the PCV hoses. Another problem might be the oil breather box that the PCV valve plugs in to (behind the exhaust manifold). These are also known to leak. I will take a look at mine when I remove the exhaust in the future For now, here is the PCV video: ua-cam.com/video/qyUOlSV-c3c/v-deo.html Good luck 🙂
@@Horus_Works Thanks. I just ordered the elbow and the seemingly infamous rear hose and I will remove and flush the other components with degreaser. The leak seemed very daunting at first but hopefully it will be a cheap fix.
hey, great video! I'm preparing to change the timing belt in my old (and first car) Ford Focus MK1 1.6 2004. I have watched your video and the other creators as well but there is one thing that I don't really get. In other videos I've seen a lady find the top position by inserting a screwdriver in the plug hole and by cranking the shaft she could see the screwdriver went top, but you haven't done it. Please correct me if I'm wrong, but you used an old alignment, and when you spotted that the key is pointed up and that metal plate can be put inside the camshaft, you treated it as a top position? Or have you done sth else? Once again I like your videos, they are awesome! Greetingsfromm Poland
Hey mate, your engine will be different to mine (2.0) so I'm not sure if this will help you, but when you insert that alignment tool into the engine, the engine goes to TDC and stops rotating - the tool is a restriction. Ford engineered it this way so that TDC is easy to find - that way you don't have to guess with a screwdriver in the spark plug hole - but that works too!
Hi Kevin, thanks for your comment 👍 If the timing belt on your Zetec breaks when driving, chances are high that there will be damage to your valves and maybe your pistons. To check if you have damage, you will need to do a compression test on your cylinders.
unless it's a US model, i was told they have notches on top of the cylinders, to allow for the valves not to hit, but i didn't want to take a chance, so i am replacing the timing belt :)
Magnificent job! I have 1.6 zetec-se engine, but I will try do the work first time after this movie. Thanks for this amazing tutorial. The best shots under the hood off all time! :)
Thanks so much for your support, I'm happy top hear that I inspired you to have a go 😊👍 There are some differences with your engine, but give it a go! It's the first time I did this as well on a Focus. Also hit up the Facebook groups if you run into any trouble, lots of helpful people in the Mk1 groups. Above all, take your time and have fun!
Olá, obrigado pela sua mensagem. Você pode comprar as mangueiras aqui: www.burtonpower.com/samco-red-coolant-hose-set-focus-mk1-1-8-2-0-rhd-tcs-198-c-red.html
Just subscribed :-) Glad to find your channel. My Focus is a 2002 1.8Zetec Turnier. I love it, and of course I love to maintain my car. Mk1 Focus is a great youngtimer :-)
Hey Do you have any advice on how to remove a stuck crackshaft pulley bolt? I have a 450nm impact wrench and the bolt doesn't even bulge. To be sure, it's a right hand bolt right? Just to make sure I'm not tightening 😅 because I'm setting the wrench to turn anti-clockwise Mine is a zetec-s 1.6 is not a 2.0 but your engine is very similar to mine
Hey Tiago, not sure about the way your thread goes as mine is a 2.0, but for stuck bolts, I would start by getting a large spanner extension instead of an impact gun. With the long spanner extension you will be able to feel when the bolt starts moving. I would say that someone's put Loctite on the bolt. This can be a problem if it's the Red, permanent Loctite. I've snapped bolts in the past with red Loctite on them. If you have tried everything else including penetrant fluid, the last resort is always heat. Basically, heat up the metal around the bolt, (not the bolt itself) and this will expand the metal, hopefully loosening the bolt enough for you to be able to undo it with a large spanner extension. If that doesn't work, you may have no other choice but to break the bolt and drill it out, then rethread it. This is only if you have no other option though, as it will cause you more work to repair the thread obviously. Good luck, stuck bolts are the worst. It can turn a 10-minute job into a whole weekend job 😜
@@Horus_Works thank you so much for your reply. I will try with heat tomorrow, this bolt was never been removed before, the car only has 100k km and the only thing that was replaced was the battery and sparkplugs, if there's Loctite it was added at the factory. I tried with a spanner extension but the engine turns, I had my brother pressing the brakes (car in gear), the wheels don't spin but the engine turns a bit like 30° but it feels weird, it feels like I'm bending something but probably this is due to the compression. I will try with heat tomorrow, I also have a tube I will also use that to gain more leverage. And one last thing, Thank you for your videos they are very useful, even tho you have a different engine they still help. I'm actually replacing the head gasket, and this bolt is the last boss. I suspect the head gasket blew due to a broken water pump, the pump is completely destroyed, and leaks all the fluid. There's oil residue on the overflow thank, the oil has a brownish color, but far from milky, I suspect the damage to the gasket was minor
@@tiagooliveira95 most welcome Tiago and good luck! One thing to keep in mind is that when you turn the crank pulley, if the drive belt is not attached you may be touching the pistons against the valves when the crank turns. If the drive belt is off, try to avoid this by using a crack pulley holding tool. It's basically a large bar with some pins in it, that attaches onto the slots drilled out on your crank pulley. Another thing to keep in mind is that you may need a pulley remover tool to press off your pulley once you undo the bolt. The 2.0 engine pulleys just slide off once the bolt is undone, but I'm not sure if this is the same for the 1.6 motors.
@@Horus_Works update, alot of time has passed and I was just able to remove the bolt yesterday by using a 1.5m bar, looks like i just needed an "i don't care" attitude, I was not making enough force because it felt like i was bending something, my brother was pressing the brake, car at 5th gear, the crank was turning slightly but the wheels were immobile, how can the crank turn while in gear and no wheel movement? i don't know, i felt that i was bending something but kept going and then SNAP it broke free. Also theres no way for the piston to hit the valves since theres no head on the engine eheh. I noticed a few leaks on the valves, probably caused by my idiot self for adding water to check for valve leaks and leaving the water there for 2days, that cause some rust arround the seal, anyway, I rotated all valves today, and tomorrow i will check for leaks again using compressed air and water but this time i wont make the same mistake, i only had 4 leaky valves, i hope it's fixed now, and I can finally start to put everything back together. Surprisingly a pully remover was not needed, it came out super easy
Very well done video, i am currently doing my 2.0 US made Zetec and the only thing that puzzles me, is the fact that the original crank seal is a felt type seal with no spring inside, and i bought one from Ford, but it seems to be almost impossible to put it on without rolling the inner lip, even with assembly lube on. I'm pretty sure a special factory press tool and plastic tube for inside lip are required. Eventually i was able to roll the inner lip by hand then quickly press it on, but because the felt seal is in the way, i cannot see if it's properly seated. I am currently waiting for a replacement Ford seal, but i see you have installed an aftermarket seal with a rubber lip and spring. How confident are you that it will last as long as the original? My last one was still ok after 20 yrs.
Hi mate, putting the seal on with some difficulty could actually be a good sign. After all, the harder it is to put on, the tighter that seal will be. Just make sure you push it on flush, that is to say, the seal is not sitting on an angle once installed. I'm sure that an aftermarket part won't last as long as the original part, I usually count on that fact when using aftermarket parts. But nevertheless, it should be fine for several years to come, but not 20 years that's for sure. The good news is that a crank seal leak is not a major drama once it starts leaking. Keep an eye on any leaks every time you're under the car to change oil, and you should be able to catch the leak before any significant damage is done 🙂 As a note, I recently visited a racecar museum here in Australia, and we moved some cars around while I was there. I was surprised to see that when we moved most of the racecars, there was oil underneath almost all of them. When I pointed out that some of the cars were leaking, the staff present, who were all experienced racing team mechanics, laughed and said they all leak. So keep that in mind, if racecars under all that stress are known to leak, our Focus won't die from a leak either. Just keep an eye out for anything major, and fix the small stuff before it becomes big stuff. Thanks for your support 🙂👍
@@Horus_Works The original seal was from 2001 with no leaks, the new Ford one i bought i think i buggered it up because it's a teflon lip inside with no spring and a felt and rubber outside, i put it in 3 times last week and every time that teflon lip swinged on the outside sometimes just half in half out. So i decided to take it out and massage the inside lip so it makes sort of a J profile. Then i put it in and it went in easier, but i cannot see how it's seated because the felt is in the way. I like my car repairs to be ocd perfect, so i ordered: - another original ford - a spanish made ford clone with the plastic install tool - a Fel-Pro rubber and spring aftermarket seal Now I'm pondering, because the timing belt is just sitting in pretensioned and i can easily replace the "buggered one". Choices choices lol
@@SilverBullet93GT I always think that OEM is better, but the seal I put in was not OEM because they are not available here. I had the spring-based aftermarket seal. I used that type and no leaks over the last 6 months. It's personal choice, but I'd always go OEM if I had the choice.
Yeah, make sure you don't over do it though... that nut winds into your main rotating assembly so check the strength of your impact gun - do not snap that bolt housing, do not strip the threads, or you're up for a big engine rebuild project...
Hey buddy, try this website - I always go here for parts: rockauto.com Even if you don't buy from here, you will be able to see specifications and part numbers 👍
@@Horus_Works Thank you so much. I'll attempt the timing belt change next to next week, will take a couple days off. You've already helped me change the ignition coil, spark plugs, valve cover gasket and clean out the throttle body(I also cleaned the IAC valve in the process). If my timing belt change is successful, I ll also repalce the water pump and coolant resevoir. Thank you so much for all your content, they are super useful.
@@moustafatlais3675 I can't be 100% sure because I don't have an SVT, but it is the same engine so it should be very very close, if not exactly the same. Your rocker cover may have a few differed bolts for example, but besides the different location of a few bolts you should be good to go. Torque specs will be the same.
Hi Mo, if your timing belt has never been changed, then it's definitely time to change it. Your timing belt will be almost 20 years old now. You can check the condition of the belt, by removing the plastic top cover as seen in my video at 6:23. If you see any cracks in the belt you should change it immediately. But I would say, at 107k miles and almost 20 years old, you should change it to be safe, even if there are no cracks. If the old belt breaks your engine could be destroyed.
@@benpittilla838 sorry mate - it's an M12 with 3/8 drive. It's really compact which is great for tight spaces. The 6.0 battery lasts very long as well.
@@Horus_Works hi there horus works appreciate you getting back to me regarding the impact gun you have been a great help to me really do enjoy watching your videos extremely detailed and well explained look forward to watching your future content Massive Thankyou M8 all the best from UK
Szia! Egy kérdésem lenne. Mk2 mondeo ezüst szelep fedeles 1.8 16V motorhoz is jó a 60 mm-es főtengely rögzítő? Illetve ha igen, akkor teljesen be kell tekerni, vagy kell néznem valami jelet a szíjtárcsán? Nekem sajnos nem egyértelmű a jelzés ami az olaj karter és a szíjtárcsán van... Köszönöm válaszod.
Szia, szeretnék tanácsot adni, de nem sokat tudok az Mk2 1.8 Mondeo motorokról. Sajnálom, hogy nem tudok segíteni, de az utolsó dolog, amit szeretnék tenni, az az, hogy rossz tanácsokat adok. Mennyire jó manapság a Google Fordító 😅
@@ivanpentek2448 There are some differences between the "New Generation" engines from 1998 and the older ones so you might want to look into that! The one in the video is the newer one. Some steps that are required in the older engines are not needed in the newer ones , and vice versa. The torque-recommendations also differ.
Hey man, first of all, thank you so much for the video. I did the timing belt change :D. I tried to hear the cars sound before I did the change but the battery was dead and I didnt have a jump starter so went ahead with the change, also changed the serp belt, timign belt tensioner, idler and cam and crank seals. I then bought a powerbank to jump start and then started the car up. It runs fine-ish. So I also had to follow some of the steps from ua-cam.com/video/GSHiwP8aksk/v-deo.html&ab_channel=1AAuto%3ARepairTips%26SecretsOnlyMechanicsKnow since they did a more step by step tear down of the vehicle. so for the engine mount I torqued the bolts on the engine to 80nm and the ones on the chasis to 50nm. - The car vibrates very slightly when I climb hills, I guess I have to torque down the bolts to 80nm - Theres a slight ticking noise, idk if this was there before or if the belt tensioner is not adjusted correctly or if its just the fuel injectors clicking, I uploaded a video here -> ua-cam.com/video/a4Nn6uU96Xw/v-deo.html&ab_channel=SaifAbdulCassim - Do you think I have to be worried about the clicking? does your car make a similar noise? its coming from near the back of the engine, as I said I dont have sounds from before the repair to directly compare since the battery was dead, but last it ran I dont think it made this noise, maybe I am being paranoid. i am planning to do a coolant flush in a few weeks, I wanna use the car regularly till then, so that I can flush things out in sequence, will also do a water pump change then, was thinking I ll tear into the engine again during that time and give the timign belt tensioner and idler a final torque, what do you think?
Hello my friend... first of all, congratulations on having such a well-sorted Focus Mk1... I applaud you! They are great cars. I saw your video and it very much sounds like injector tick. This is at the back of the engine so it makes sense that you are hearing the noise from here... The injectors ticking is absolutely nothing to worry about. They just get noise as they get old (tolerances increase inside the injector). If it does bother you, simply change out the injectors for new ones and your noise will be gone :) Appreciate you watching!
@@Horus_Works Thanks man, that means a lot to me, you inspired me to clean out the engine bay, I wanna restore this car proper, I got it 2 months back. Thanks a lot for all the videos, they are excellent
YOU THE MAN! That is exactly the comment I was hoping to see. My girlfriend's 2002 ZX2 broke the timing belt. I, just today, figured out how to tell if there was valve damage without the timing belt installed. I charged each cylinder with compressed air through its spark plug hole, while seeing its valves were closed. This will throw that piston to bottom dead center, so I made sure the cylinders reaching top dead center would not have their valves fully open. I connected the fitting I screwed into spark plug hole to my air hose with a quick disconnect. When I removed the disconnect, the blast of air coming out of each cylinder gave me a general idea the valves were okay. Leaky valves would have greatly reduced the blast of air coming out. Also, I checked all the valve clearances to see they were all reasonably close to each other in value. I've never experienced an interference engine, so I assume they are very rare. Thanks, Kurt!
Car guys already have lots tools, and they love spending time working on their cars. Maybe fixing cars for fun isn't for you. A mechanic will gladly take your $$$ and no stress for you - good luck :)
Not really John. I recently changed the timing belt, water pump, tensioner and idlers on my Mk5 Golf 2.0 TDI. The timing belt kit was $420 AUD (HEPU from Germany) and the camshaft and crankshaft locking tools (Chinese) were $32 AUD from eBay. So that's a $1500 (plus) job done for just $452. I'm a former mechanic from the 60's and 70's which admittedly gives me a slight advantage but I hadn't done this job before so I worked very carefully and slowly. I have a tiny home workshop (3 mt wide by 6 mt long) with most of the required tools and it took me about 6 hours. I finished it off with a service (oil change, filters, etc) which saved me another $300 so it's definitely worthwhile looking after your own car if you have a bit of mechanical knowledge and do some solid research beforehand. Workshops here in Australia are currently charging around $150 hour labour, it's ridiculous. This video from Horus was excellent by the way and I've subscribed.
Thanks for watching the video. If you ever need more DIY Ford Focus videos, please check out the full playlist here, and bookmark it for future use:
ua-cam.com/play/PLof3-wBOirGEWyRrHvNZ6NVJHgpAEn7y-.html
Just had a quick pop to your video playlist after watching this video and noticed you have not posted for 6 months. Just wanted to drop by and say your presentation is outstanding, and you should continue making videos as they're very enjoyable to watch. You have a unique way of presenting. Cheers
Thanks mate, I appreciate you saying so... I've taken a break for a while, but will come back soon 👍
Great video , Very well presented
Thanks for the comment, and for watching, I appreciate it 👍
This is the one job that I want to do myself but it really daunting to me cuz I don’t want to mess it up. I have most of the tools except the timing tool and the tool to hold the sprockets. This awesome video really put a lot of my fears to rest and I’m going to tackle this in the near future. Thank you for this clear and instructional video.
You can do it! I was nervous too, lot's of steps, but all quite easy - go for it!
Bit out of my comfort zone but was good to watch!
Well done👍🏻
Thanks Rob, it was out of my comfort zone too, but no longer :)
I really enjoyed the presentation and detail of this video. Cheers, Paul.
Thanks Paul, I appreciate you saying so, and for watching the video. If you ever need more DIY Ford Focus videos, please bookmark and check out the full playlist here:
ua-cam.com/play/PLof3-wBOirGEWyRrHvNZ6NVJHgpAEn7y-.html
@ Hi mate
I have a ford transit connect with a 1.8 black top focus engine in it. Just recently the engine runs fine on tick over, but when I go to drive it, it starts running up to 4000 rpm I’m having to use my brake and clutch to keep the revs down in traffic or at lights. Sometimes I have to turn the engine off. I cleaned the throttle body but still the same. Any ideas welcome. Thanks for sending the video list. Cheers Paul.
@@paulh8769 Hey Paul, a high idle could mean a vacuum leak somewhere. The ecu could be compensating for a leak, thinking that if the revs are lower the engine will stall. I can't be sure not seeing the car personally, but that's where I would start looking... other easy jobs might be to replace your cam angle sensor at the back of the rocker cover, and clean the mass air flow sensor inside the air intake. Hope that helps 👍
@@Horus_Works Hi Horus, I also fitted a new throttle position sensor and still the same. There is no engine light coming on either. I did reset the ecu by disconnecting the negative terminal and connecting it to the positive and not done many miles since then. I also bought an iac valve but not fitted it as it’s an absolute nightmare to fit without a lift.
When I first used my scanner on it , it came up with a P1000 code.
Anyway I’d just like to say thank you for the replies and support and also for you taking the time out for recording these excellent videos for everyone. Cheers Paul.👍👍.
@@paulh8769 appreciate you saying so mate, and sorry to see that you're still having trouble. Whatever your problem will be, I'm willing to bet it's either electronic (a sensor somewhere) or it's vacuum leak related. I hope you manage to track it down soon 👍
Mid job now and this is very helpful since I’ve never done one before. Thanks Eric👍
Awesome mate, super happy to see that 👍
wow I absolutely love your channel you have arranged everything just how I like in a clear good understanding method most videos on UA-cam just show how to do this job with the engine out of the car so nice to see you doing it like the DIYer brilliant!
Thanks Alex, I appreciate you saying so mate. It took twice as long to do with all the filming, but I knew that it was worth showing it for others to see. I appreciate your comment and support 😀
@@Horus_Works I've just done the same job on my car and for some reason it didn't lock it in time
so good i watched this video until it bottomed out.
Nagyon jó videot csináltál ismét. Jó volt újra tartalmat látni tőled!. Köszi szépen. Kíváncsian várom a továbbiakat🙂
Koszonom szepen Laci, meg lesz tob :)
hi mate , love you're videos, this is my second time watching this video, as I enjoyed it , and also I have a mk 6 fiesta , very similar to the mk1 focus, thanks again, please keep making your videos ,👍👍 from Tony from Bedfordshire england
Thanks so much Tony, I appreciate the feedback mate. Good motivation to make more MK1 videos 😀👍
Very calm and straight to the point while explaining nice job buddy keep up
Thank you legend - I appreciate you saying so 👍
Excellant video! Can you just remove the top cover to get a look at how worn it is? On a used Focus that doesn't come with maintenance records.
Yes sure, just remove the 4 bolts holding on the top cover, then you can take a look 👍
I am about to attempt this job on a 1.8 litre. I am not a mechanic by any stretch but found this video to be more instructional than all the videos out there. You have my sub and keep up the excellent work mate. Have a good one:-)
Awesome to hear mate. Go slowly and double check everything. Best of luck 😃
hmm, complicated job, it can be done, I did it with limited experience...take your time, double check, I took two full days on the job.
Just looking at these posts from a year ago. Did you end up changing that timing belt yourself.
@@PropanePete How are you mate. I did give it a crack but found there were multiple bent valves due to the idle pulley letting go at 110 KPH. I replaced the idle pulley before attempting any other repairs and did the timing as per instruction in the hope that no damage was done. Alas, when the idle pulley let go the timing belt spun multiple teeth i am imagining and catastrophy struck. Had to weigh up the economical benefits of replacing head. etc with the value of the car and it would have been a waste of money. I think it maybe have come back as a washing machine or fridge. lol. Yeah, had to let it go to the scrap yard unfortunately. It wasn't my car but my young brothers car. I found a 2004 Focus for $300 that needed a clutch so got that repaired and cars going well to this present day. Cheers:-)
@@crankylock7844 At least you had a go. And a $300 Focus sounds like a bit of a win anyway. Cheers mate.
This is a great video. Thanks for all the work to put it together.
Appreciate you saying so, and for watching! It's always good to see that the videos are useful 👍
There are lots of other Focus Mk1 DIY videos here if you ever need them:
ua-cam.com/play/PLof3-wBOirGEWyRrHvNZ6NVJHgpAEn7y-.html
Really good and well put together video like all your others, I'm probably going to have to do this on my own Mk1 soon and it makes me feel like I might almost be able to do it, haha. I hadn't even noticed the tool kits existed for the price they do either.
Go for it! I thought this was super-scary to do as well, and then I did it! It's not difficult at all, just make sure you have everything ready, and check your next step before you do it. Have fun :)
@@Horus_Works It did always seem like the number of steps was maybe the worst thing for a relative newbie, rather than any part being super difficult. Hopefully that's how it turns out, thanks for the advice!
Very nice video, one of the better ones I've seen on this job. Why didn't you replace the water pump while you were in there? The timing belt has to come out to replace the pump so it seems this is the time to do it.
Thanks so much for your nice comments 👍 I replaced the water pump as well, but this was in a separate job/video:
ua-cam.com/video/ktZY29VX390/v-deo.html
I watched it again second time and I realise how wonderful explanation is. I really enjoyed it. Thanks ones again.
Thank you my friend - I'm glad that you found the video helpful... 👍
Awesome video, I'm feeling a bit more hopefully about doing my mk1s timing belt now! Thanks💪👍
You're welcome Ulysses, glad to see you're enjoying the vids!
Thanks for step by step explanation, is procedure same for 1.6 Ti-VCT engine?
Thanks for your comment mate. I don't have the 1.6 but from what I hear quite a few things are different... I'd definitely try to find more info. Hopefully someone else can also comment on here.
You make it look easy. Great instructional video. Keep up the good work.
Thank you, I appreciate it ✌️
Only on yt. lol
This is a nightmare to do actually.
Took me almost 2 hours just to replace a fckn fuel filter. Stuck pipes, small space, etc..
I recently did a valve cover gasket replacement following your videos, Can I reuse the gasket?
@@uselesvideo I wouldn't recommend it... the leak could have come from the gasket.
Hey brother! So...Coolant leaking looks like the 2 3/16" freeze/expansion plug failed on the front of the engine. Seeing as I have to remove the timing belt, I'll be using this video now. 🙂 Doing everything you show in this video, along with new valve cover gasket too. It looks like the crank seal and the cam seal are the same, did you notice a difference? I have the new ones in front of me now, maybe a slight difference. Once again, your videos are saving me. Thanks!!!
Hey Jake, good to get the restoration update! I didn't notice a difference between the seals, but that's not to say that they are different or the same - I just didn't pay much attention to that since I had them all ordered and lined up. Once you have this thing sorted your Mk1 will be good to go for years! Good to see another one saved 😃
do you have to take out the spark plugs? just the ignition leads should be enough right? you just need to align camshaft in top dead center hence why the rocker cover comes off?
If you take the spark plugs out, it will be a lot easier to rotate the engine. With the plugs in, when you rotate the crank, you will be fighting against the compression of the pistons.
Really great Job dude!!! Just awesome!
Thanks mate 😊👍
Love my pacific green mk1 focus done so many jobs on it and followed a couple of your video's along the way which are great by the way only thing left to do is my very noisy clutch slave cylinder bearing 😢😢😢😢😢😂😂😂😂
Amazing video my dude! I abosolutely love your content. Keep up the good work!
Thanks legend!
I was hoping you used the pin to lock the timing belt tensioner on installation cause I'm not sure how that is used
Is the procedure the same with the steering wheel on the left?
Yes, confirming that it is the same procedure. Some with LHD cars have already followed this video successfully 👍
May we have video about same operation with timing chain on duratec he of focus 2?
Hi buddy, happy new year 2022. Question for you on another topic. Can't select reverse gear on my focus. Clutch is fine, can't select reverse gear. Seems to be the lift gate on the gear stick and 4th and 2nd gear selection have worsened. Any advice or videos you might recommend. BTW, very useful videos. Thanks.
Hi mate, Happy NY. My car has not had this issue so I cant offer an informed comment, but it sounds to me like your gearbox selector cables may be bad. They do tend to stretch or break over time so you might want to start looking there first. It goes from the top of the gearbox to underneath your shifter in the car. Good luck mate, hope you find the problem.
Great video very similar process that I've recently carried out on my mk1 1.6. Slight differences no idler pulley and different tensioner design on the sigma. The only thing is say is if your focus is an automatic getting a decent Impact gun with at least 800nm of torque is essential to remove the crankshaft pulley. I'm lucky to own a milwaukee m18 and I had to use the top setting at 1900nm to release the bolt. Someone used tonnes of locktite on the bolt which really isn't necessary🤔
Hey Andy, thanks for the great comment mate. Super helpful, which is great, I hope the comments section helps people get these jobs done just as much as the vids do, so I appreciate your tips!
what brand of engine mount is that? never seen one like that b4... usually the ford mount is a fluid filled one with a plastic cap..
These are Vibra Technics mounts from the UK. A lot stiffer that the OEM mounts, which means a little more vibration comes through, but they are much better at stopping engine flex.
I see that you had an oil leak in the front when you removed the timing tool (20:57). Do you know what was leaking? An oil leak is creating a huge mess in that area for me right now and I think it is the PCV catch tank seal to block that is leaking.
Hi, yes for me it was the PCV system that was leaking. I had a bad PCV hose there which I replaced in another video. The oil was dripping down from the PCV pipe into this area.
I would suggest you have a look at all of the PCV hoses. Another problem might be the oil breather box that the PCV valve plugs in to (behind the exhaust manifold). These are also known to leak. I will take a look at mine when I remove the exhaust in the future
For now, here is the PCV video: ua-cam.com/video/qyUOlSV-c3c/v-deo.html
Good luck 🙂
@@Horus_Works Thanks. I just ordered the elbow and the seemingly infamous rear hose and I will remove and flush the other components with degreaser. The leak seemed very daunting at first but hopefully it will be a cheap fix.
Awesome video. Thanks for all the great tips!
Thanks for watching!
On my Ford must out the generator and some other thing but it's helpful to. Thanls
You are welcome my friend - I hope you find the video useful...
hey, great video! I'm preparing to change the timing belt in my old (and first car) Ford Focus MK1 1.6 2004. I have watched your video and the other creators as well but there is one thing that I don't really get.
In other videos I've seen a lady find the top position by inserting a screwdriver in the plug hole and by cranking the shaft she could see the screwdriver went top, but you haven't done it. Please correct me if I'm wrong, but you used an old alignment, and when you spotted that the key is pointed up and that metal plate can be put inside the camshaft, you treated it as a top position?
Or have you done sth else?
Once again I like your videos, they are awesome!
Greetingsfromm Poland
Hey mate, your engine will be different to mine (2.0) so I'm not sure if this will help you, but when you insert that alignment tool into the engine, the engine goes to TDC and stops rotating - the tool is a restriction. Ford engineered it this way so that TDC is easy to find - that way you don't have to guess with a screwdriver in the spark plug hole - but that works too!
@@Horus_Works thanks a lot, yeah I rewatched your video and now I get it. Now it seems much easier than at the begging :)
@@kamilamd it's a dauting task to change timing belts for sure, but glad you realise that it's no big deal actually 😃
Thanks for videos they're great. Do you think if timing belt goes when driving there's a chance there is no damage on 2.0 zetec?
Hi Kevin, thanks for your comment 👍 If the timing belt on your Zetec breaks when driving, chances are high that there will be damage to your valves and maybe your pistons. To check if you have damage, you will need to do a compression test on your cylinders.
@@Horus_Works thanks
unless it's a US model, i was told they have notches on top of the cylinders, to allow for the valves not to hit, but i didn't want to take a chance, so i am replacing the timing belt :)
Magnificent job! I have 1.6 zetec-se engine, but I will try do the work first time after this movie.
Thanks for this amazing tutorial. The best shots under the hood off all time! :)
Thanks so much for your support, I'm happy top hear that I inspired you to have a go 😊👍 There are some differences with your engine, but give it a go! It's the first time I did this as well on a Focus. Also hit up the Facebook groups if you run into any trouble, lots of helpful people in the Mk1 groups. Above all, take your time and have fun!
Hello, i have the same engine the 1.4 zetec se, what are the differences when doing a timing belt change? Thank you in advance@Horus_Works
best video on youtube. thank you
I appreciate you saying so Yousef - I hope the vid helps! 👍
BOA TARDE! ONDE POSSO COMPRAR ESSAS MANGUEIRAS VERMELHAS?
Olá, obrigado pela sua mensagem. Você pode comprar as mangueiras aqui:
www.burtonpower.com/samco-red-coolant-hose-set-focus-mk1-1-8-2-0-rhd-tcs-198-c-red.html
Just subscribed :-)
Glad to find your channel. My Focus is a 2002 1.8Zetec Turnier. I love it, and of course I love to maintain my car.
Mk1 Focus is a great youngtimer :-)
Thanks for the great comments - I appreciate it 😀 Yes, the Mk1 Focus is a great little car. I hope you enjoy working on it 👍
Hey
Do you have any advice on how to remove a stuck crackshaft pulley bolt?
I have a 450nm impact wrench and the bolt doesn't even bulge.
To be sure, it's a right hand bolt right? Just to make sure I'm not tightening 😅 because I'm setting the wrench to turn anti-clockwise
Mine is a zetec-s 1.6 is not a 2.0 but your engine is very similar to mine
Hey Tiago, not sure about the way your thread goes as mine is a 2.0, but for stuck bolts, I would start by getting a large spanner extension instead of an impact gun. With the long spanner extension you will be able to feel when the bolt starts moving. I would say that someone's put Loctite on the bolt. This can be a problem if it's the Red, permanent Loctite. I've snapped bolts in the past with red Loctite on them. If you have tried everything else including penetrant fluid, the last resort is always heat. Basically, heat up the metal around the bolt, (not the bolt itself) and this will expand the metal, hopefully loosening the bolt enough for you to be able to undo it with a large spanner extension. If that doesn't work, you may have no other choice but to break the bolt and drill it out, then rethread it. This is only if you have no other option though, as it will cause you more work to repair the thread obviously. Good luck, stuck bolts are the worst. It can turn a 10-minute job into a whole weekend job 😜
@@Horus_Works thank you so much for your reply.
I will try with heat tomorrow, this bolt was never been removed before, the car only has 100k km and the only thing that was replaced was the battery and sparkplugs, if there's Loctite it was added at the factory.
I tried with a spanner extension but the engine turns, I had my brother pressing the brakes (car in gear), the wheels don't spin but the engine turns a bit like 30° but it feels weird, it feels like I'm bending something but probably this is due to the compression.
I will try with heat tomorrow, I also have a tube I will also use that to gain more leverage.
And one last thing,
Thank you for your videos they are very useful, even tho you have a different engine they still help.
I'm actually replacing the head gasket, and this bolt is the last boss.
I suspect the head gasket blew due to a broken water pump, the pump is completely destroyed, and leaks all the fluid.
There's oil residue on the overflow thank, the oil has a brownish color, but far from milky, I suspect the damage to the gasket was minor
@@tiagooliveira95 most welcome Tiago and good luck! One thing to keep in mind is that when you turn the crank pulley, if the drive belt is not attached you may be touching the pistons against the valves when the crank turns. If the drive belt is off, try to avoid this by using a crack pulley holding tool. It's basically a large bar with some pins in it, that attaches onto the slots drilled out on your crank pulley. Another thing to keep in mind is that you may need a pulley remover tool to press off your pulley once you undo the bolt. The 2.0 engine pulleys just slide off once the bolt is undone, but I'm not sure if this is the same for the 1.6 motors.
@@Horus_Works update, alot of time has passed and I was just able to remove the bolt yesterday by using a 1.5m bar, looks like i just needed an "i don't care" attitude, I was not making enough force because it felt like i was bending something, my brother was pressing the brake, car at 5th gear, the crank was turning slightly but the wheels were immobile, how can the crank turn while in gear and no wheel movement? i don't know, i felt that i was bending something but kept going and then SNAP it broke free. Also theres no way for the piston to hit the valves since theres no head on the engine eheh. I noticed a few leaks on the valves, probably caused by my idiot self for adding water to check for valve leaks and leaving the water there for 2days, that cause some rust arround the seal, anyway, I rotated all valves today, and tomorrow i will check for leaks again using compressed air and water but this time i wont make the same mistake, i only had 4 leaky valves, i hope it's fixed now, and I can finally start to put everything back together.
Surprisingly a pully remover was not needed, it came out super easy
@Tiago Oliveira good to see you won the battle mate! Now the easy part of putting all back together 😀
Very well done video, i am currently doing my 2.0 US made Zetec and the only thing that puzzles me, is the fact that the original crank seal is a felt type seal with no spring inside, and i bought one from Ford, but it seems to be almost impossible to put it on without rolling the inner lip, even with assembly lube on.
I'm pretty sure a special factory press tool and plastic tube for inside lip are required.
Eventually i was able to roll the inner lip by hand then quickly press it on, but because the felt seal is in the way, i cannot see if it's properly seated.
I am currently waiting for a replacement Ford seal, but i see you have installed an aftermarket seal with a rubber lip and spring. How confident are you that it will last as long as the original? My last one was still ok after 20 yrs.
Hi mate, putting the seal on with some difficulty could actually be a good sign. After all, the harder it is to put on, the tighter that seal will be. Just make sure you push it on flush, that is to say, the seal is not sitting on an angle once installed. I'm sure that an aftermarket part won't last as long as the original part, I usually count on that fact when using aftermarket parts. But nevertheless, it should be fine for several years to come, but not 20 years that's for sure. The good news is that a crank seal leak is not a major drama once it starts leaking. Keep an eye on any leaks every time you're under the car to change oil, and you should be able to catch the leak before any significant damage is done 🙂 As a note, I recently visited a racecar museum here in Australia, and we moved some cars around while I was there. I was surprised to see that when we moved most of the racecars, there was oil underneath almost all of them. When I pointed out that some of the cars were leaking, the staff present, who were all experienced racing team mechanics, laughed and said they all leak. So keep that in mind, if racecars under all that stress are known to leak, our Focus won't die from a leak either. Just keep an eye out for anything major, and fix the small stuff before it becomes big stuff. Thanks for your support 🙂👍
@@Horus_Works The original seal was from 2001 with no leaks, the new Ford one i bought i think i buggered it up because it's a teflon lip inside with no spring and a felt and rubber outside, i put it in 3 times last week and every time that teflon lip swinged on the outside sometimes just half in half out. So i decided to take it out and massage the inside lip so it makes sort of a J profile. Then i put it in and it went in easier, but i cannot see how it's seated because the felt is in the way. I like my car repairs to be ocd perfect, so i ordered:
- another original ford
- a spanish made ford clone with the plastic install tool
- a Fel-Pro rubber and spring aftermarket seal
Now I'm pondering, because the timing belt is just sitting in pretensioned and i can easily replace the "buggered one".
Choices choices lol
@@SilverBullet93GT if in doubt, change it mate. You'd hate to put it all back together, only to find in 2 weeks you have to take it all apart again.
@@Horus_Works but which one
@@SilverBullet93GT I always think that OEM is better, but the seal I put in was not OEM because they are not available here. I had the spring-based aftermarket seal. I used that type and no leaks over the last 6 months. It's personal choice, but I'd always go OEM if I had the choice.
can an impact gun be used in lieu of a ratchet gun?
Yeah, make sure you don't over do it though... that nut winds into your main rotating assembly so check the strength of your impact gun - do not snap that bolt housing, do not strip the threads, or you're up for a big engine rebuild project...
Dude can you do a live stream so we can ask you questions.
awesome as always! question. you did not replaced front crankshaft position sensor?
Hi Louie, thanks mate. Yeah I didn't replace the crank sensor in this video, but I will soon :)
@@Horus_Works looking forward to it.
Does cht sensor gers 5v from tps sensor or maf sensor?
I'm not sure what the correct answer is, sorry. Hopefully someone else here can answer it for you 👍
@@Horus_Works thank you.any way you are doing.a great job Greatings from Serbia Belgrade
Thank you very much 👍👍👍
Welcome 😊
hey man, if you could tell me about the cam seal and cranck seal dimensions itd be really useful, I cannot find them anywhere on amazon de or ebay
Hey buddy, try this website - I always go here for parts: rockauto.com
Even if you don't buy from here, you will be able to see specifications and part numbers 👍
@@Horus_Works Thank you so much. I'll attempt the timing belt change next to next week, will take a couple days off. You've already helped me change the ignition coil, spark plugs, valve cover gasket and clean out the throttle body(I also cleaned the IAC valve in the process). If my timing belt change is successful, I ll also repalce the water pump and coolant resevoir. Thank you so much for all your content, they are super useful.
@@uselesvideo happy to see that brother - and I appreciate you watching 😃🙏
Hello.
What is the distance at which the engine belt must be changed?
Thank you.
Hi, I wouldn't leave it more than 100,000kms...
@@Horus_Works Thank you for your interest and your answer.
Making me ThinK about do things myself
I hope the video helps mate 👍
Thanks from Ukraine! We love mk1!🇺🇦🇺🇦🇺🇦
Hello, and thanks for the support :) The Mk1 is a great car!
I assume this all applies to a 2.3 as well?
I can't confirm that mate, but I'd imagine that it would be pretty close...
Is everything the same for 03 svt focus?
Its not all the same but very very close. It's the same engine block, but your engine has better pistons and variable timing in the head.
@@Horus_Works but the timing belt change should be the same as in your video, right?
@@moustafatlais3675 I can't be 100% sure because I don't have an SVT, but it is the same engine so it should be very very close, if not exactly the same. Your rocker cover may have a few differed bolts for example, but besides the different location of a few bolts you should be good to go. Torque specs will be the same.
Hi my mileage is 107,000 is it necessary to change now or can I check it if I need to change now can. You advise me
Hi Mo, if your timing belt has never been changed, then it's definitely time to change it. Your timing belt will be almost 20 years old now. You can check the condition of the belt, by removing the plastic top cover as seen in my video at 6:23. If you see any cracks in the belt you should change it immediately. But I would say, at 107k miles and almost 20 years old, you should change it to be safe, even if there are no cracks. If the old belt breaks your engine could be destroyed.
@@Horus_Works hi thank you for your reply can you change it it’s hard to trust garages now a days
@@mfamily3173 you can change it, sure, just go slowly and have all the parts and tools ready before you start.
@@Horus_Works can you do for me please
@Mo Miah me?... Oh no, sorry 😅 I'm in Australia
Hello what model type is your impact gun?
Hello Ben, it's a Milwaukee
@@Horus_Works Hello horus works I know it's Milwaukee make but what model is it a m12 -3/8 or 1/2 ?
@@benpittilla838 sorry mate - it's an M12 with 3/8 drive. It's really compact which is great for tight spaces. The 6.0 battery lasts very long as well.
@@Horus_Works hi there horus works appreciate you getting back to me regarding the impact gun you have been a great help to me really do enjoy watching your videos extremely detailed and well explained look forward to watching your future content Massive Thankyou M8 all the best from UK
Thanks for the feedback mate, and happy to her that you're finding the vids useful 👍
Which site can I buy the timing belt for ford focus 2005?
Try rockauto.com mate. Good prices, fast shipping.
thanks from Polland BRO :)
Welcome!
Good work
Thanks
To loose the sprokets you remove the guide an didn’t put it back neither put the cam shaft holder
I am gonna pretend like I am an expert in doing this after this video 🤣
Glad you're finding it useful haha
Güzel bir iş tebrikler 🎉
Güzel bir iş tebrikle 😃
Szia! Egy kérdésem lenne. Mk2 mondeo ezüst szelep fedeles 1.8 16V motorhoz is jó a 60 mm-es főtengely rögzítő? Illetve ha igen, akkor teljesen be kell tekerni, vagy kell néznem valami jelet a szíjtárcsán? Nekem sajnos nem egyértelmű a jelzés ami az olaj karter és a szíjtárcsán van... Köszönöm válaszod.
Szia, szeretnék tanácsot adni, de nem sokat tudok az Mk2 1.8 Mondeo motorokról. Sajnálom, hogy nem tudok segíteni, de az utolsó dolog, amit szeretnék tenni, az az, hogy rossz tanácsokat adok. Mennyire jó manapság a Google Fordító 😅
@@Horus_Works Thank you for your answer! I made a 60mm long fastener and it turned out perfect. according to them, no changes were made to the engine.
@@ivanpentek2448 There are some differences between the "New Generation" engines from 1998 and the older ones so you might want to look into that! The one in the video is the newer one. Some steps that are required in the older engines are not needed in the newer ones , and vice versa. The torque-recommendations also differ.
👍 From "England'istan".
Greetings from the colony!
Hey man, first of all, thank you so much for the video. I did the timing belt change :D. I tried to hear the cars sound before I did the change but the battery was dead and I didnt have a jump starter so went ahead with the change, also changed the serp belt, timign belt tensioner, idler and cam and crank seals. I then bought a powerbank to jump start and then started the car up. It runs fine-ish. So I also had to follow some of the steps from ua-cam.com/video/GSHiwP8aksk/v-deo.html&ab_channel=1AAuto%3ARepairTips%26SecretsOnlyMechanicsKnow since they did a more step by step tear down of the vehicle. so for the engine mount I torqued the bolts on the engine to 80nm and the ones on the chasis to 50nm.
- The car vibrates very slightly when I climb hills, I guess I have to torque down the bolts to 80nm
- Theres a slight ticking noise, idk if this was there before or if the belt tensioner is not adjusted correctly or if its just the fuel injectors clicking, I uploaded a video here -> ua-cam.com/video/a4Nn6uU96Xw/v-deo.html&ab_channel=SaifAbdulCassim
- Do you think I have to be worried about the clicking? does your car make a similar noise? its coming from near the back of the engine, as I said I dont have sounds from before the repair to directly compare since the battery was dead, but last it ran I dont think it made this noise, maybe I am being paranoid.
i am planning to do a coolant flush in a few weeks, I wanna use the car regularly till then, so that I can flush things out in sequence, will also do a water pump change then, was thinking I ll tear into the engine again during that time and give the timign belt tensioner and idler a final torque, what do you think?
Hello my friend... first of all, congratulations on having such a well-sorted Focus Mk1... I applaud you! They are great cars. I saw your video and it very much sounds like injector tick. This is at the back of the engine so it makes sense that you are hearing the noise from here... The injectors ticking is absolutely nothing to worry about. They just get noise as they get old (tolerances increase inside the injector). If it does bother you, simply change out the injectors for new ones and your noise will be gone :) Appreciate you watching!
@@Horus_Works Thanks man, that means a lot to me, you inspired me to clean out the engine bay, I wanna restore this car proper, I got it 2 months back. Thanks a lot for all the videos, they are excellent
the screw is exactly 60mm.???
Which screw?
I have mk 1!)
Nice, hope the videos are helping :)
That's a noninterference engine it has valve reliefs in the pistons
YOU THE MAN! That is exactly the comment I was hoping to see. My girlfriend's 2002 ZX2 broke the timing belt. I, just today, figured out how to tell if there was valve damage without the timing belt installed. I charged each cylinder with compressed air through its spark plug hole, while seeing its valves were closed. This will throw that piston to bottom dead center, so I made sure the cylinders reaching top dead center would not have their valves fully open. I connected the fitting I screwed into spark plug hole to my air hose with a quick disconnect. When I removed the disconnect, the blast of air coming out of each cylinder gave me a general idea the valves were okay. Leaky valves would have greatly reduced the blast of air coming out. Also, I checked all the valve clearances to see they were all reasonably close to each other in value. I've never experienced an interference engine, so I assume they are very rare. Thanks, Kurt!
yes but by the time you buy all the tools and parts it costs more than the mecanic? plus your own time could be spent doing something else.
Car guys already have lots tools, and they love spending time working on their cars. Maybe fixing cars for fun isn't for you. A mechanic will gladly take your $$$ and no stress for you - good luck :)
If you Aussies drove more carefully and stopped running down kangaroos and koalas, you wouldn't need to keep fixing the same car?
@John M Gannon 😂😂they are massive pests - we all do our part
Not really John. I recently changed the timing belt, water pump, tensioner and idlers on my Mk5 Golf 2.0 TDI. The timing belt kit was $420 AUD (HEPU from Germany) and the camshaft and crankshaft locking tools (Chinese) were $32 AUD from eBay. So that's a $1500 (plus) job done for just $452. I'm a former mechanic from the 60's and 70's which admittedly gives me a slight advantage but I hadn't done this job before so I worked very carefully and slowly. I have a tiny home workshop (3 mt wide by 6 mt long) with most of the required tools and it took me about 6 hours. I finished it off with a service (oil change, filters, etc) which saved me another $300 so it's definitely worthwhile looking after your own car if you have a bit of mechanical knowledge and do some solid research beforehand. Workshops here in Australia are currently charging around $150 hour labour, it's ridiculous. This video from Horus was excellent by the way and I've subscribed.
@@PropanePete happy to see I have such experienced people here watching my vids Pete. I appreciate your input.
I appreciate the video, but the music is annoying.
Sorry to see that - I'll tone it down next time.
His voice to😂
@@xxl531 To each his own. I like his accent.
@@Horus_WorksTell them to make their own videos.... Chumps.
If you don't like the video/music, go and make your own content.
You lost men.Tnx. for video.
Welcome Mihail :)
is it usefull to replace the waterpump aswell if you do the timing belt.
If you need to take the timing belt off to replace the water pump then yes it would be sensible.
Absolutely! Important part of the job! 🎉