Cheers Brad, great video on plumbing in the resevoir, I'm sure those heater plugs have a heat activated valve in them, in other words as they heat up the valve will open and allow fuel onto the heater element, causing the burn, and once you remove the electrical current it cools and closes the valve stopping the fuel from leaking into the inlet manifold. at least thats my understanding of them. many thanks for sharing Barry
That is my believe as well, Barry, it only vaporizes the fuel when the current is on. not sure how much of a reservoir is needed to fuel the plug, I figure you can't have too much.
It would be difficult to reach once the hood and loader are installed, I like the block heater idea for cold applications. Easier on the engine it would seem.
I'm mulling this over. I'm semi retired but have a full time working member of my household (a lawyer) that needed to get out to court this week. I had the tractor plugged in on the timer but sometime in the night one of my outdoor cats must have knocked the plug loose. We had 2 1/2 feet of snow and drifts 4 feet high in places. I cold started the 770 at minus 18C (O F). Almost ran the battery down and it was hard on everything. I love the block heater, but Brad you've inspired me to try out a thermo-start. I just need a manifold with the threaded boss for the thermo-start and a few other bits. Tried to order one from the USA but the seller (in Wisconsin) won't ship to Canada so I need to look locally or in the UK. I was thinking for a reservoir that a fuel filter would suffice and give enough volume. Also, I would put a shutoff valve near the thermo-start. Haven't decided yet on actuation. Perhaps a toggle switch and timer and make one of the idiot lights dual purpose, most likely the generator light. I'm willing to drill one more hole in the dash for this probably just to the right of the ignition switch. Definitely need to be able to disable it when not wanted. The idea being, that to reset the logic, the starter switch needs to be turned off and then back to the run position. After a set period of time, the timer would time out and the thermo-start relay would cut out. I think I would prefer this to a new switch with two spring positions, the first one being for the pre-heating. Excited about doing this when the weather warms up. Thank-you Brad!
Thanks Frederick, the inlet manifold #914000 is the same on all 3 cylinder models, the ether plug located on top of your existing manifold is the same thread 7/8 bsf, that is on the heater plug. I have heard of using that hole for the heater plug, I wasn't sure so I purchased the other manifold and the threads are the same. The heat plug only allows fuel flow when the current is on. I show the electrical in the next video, you can power the plug through a separate switch and line, the advantage of the ignition switch is that it's spring loaded to turn the plug off once the engine is running. In summer you can unplug the electrical at the heater plug. Don't know how much fuel is needed for the heater, you can't have too much i guess. That's a lot of snow, glad to help thanks again.
@@TECH.274 Thanks Brad. I'm probably making this more complicated than necessary. I'll check tomorrow if there is room to install a heater from the top. I think the side would be more efficient and keep the flame away from the rubber intake hose. Although an inch either way probably doesn't matter.
@@frederickcwinterburn1837 I would think the engineers placed the heater plug in the best place for operation, keep searching for the intake used parts show up all the time. There are a lot of company's dismantling David Brown's, I will post the service manual page on 'how it works' for the heat plug on the community page.
@ Got an 885 manifold coming with the side bung. I'm going to allow power to it in the run position on the starter switch which will then be in series with another switch probably just to the right of the starter switch. That switch will activate a relay dedicated to the thermo-start. No timer with this simpler approach. Instead of repurposing the generator light or the oil light by turning them off when the themostart is ON, I might just use a 10 ohm resistor and a relay to make the temperature gauge go to the full hot position. (10 ohm resistor in parallel with the temperature sender while thermo-start is ON) I'd rather this than drill yet another hole in the dashboard for an indicating light or use a lighted switch that might not show up well in the lower part of the dash. I think it will be fun to make the temperature gauge dual duty!
@@frederickcwinterburn1837 You have put a lot of thought in this. The thermo-start needs power for 15 to 20 seconds before turning the engine, as long as you can turn it on and then off it should be able to do it's thing. I purchased a new ignition switch with the heat position, it wasn't difficult to install and only 1 additional wire was needed for the thermo-start. When the switch is activated for 15 sec. you can fell the heat on the manifold so you know it's working, by removing the rubber inlet hose you can see the fuel being vaporized. All you need is the parts and warmer weather lol, have fun.
Hi I had same idea for my 885, its got allready a bolt in designated spot for heater element, so just need heater and few fitings, and as for a reservoir I have found some small aluminium tanks on aliexpress and was thinking of putting them in series with that return, and as i can see in diagram, and how original tank was constructed it should not be a problem, great vid, support form Croatia
Thanks for the support, it's great to hear from Croatia. The heater plug #K928523 you can find it on line, and the isolating switch with key is also available #3107556R93. We show the electrical installation in the next video.
Cheers Brad, great video on plumbing in the resevoir, I'm sure those heater plugs have a heat activated valve in them, in other words as they heat up the valve will open and allow fuel onto the heater element, causing the burn, and once you remove the electrical current it cools and closes the valve stopping the fuel from leaking into the inlet manifold.
at least thats my understanding of them.
many thanks for sharing
Barry
That is my believe as well, Barry, it only vaporizes the fuel when the current is on. not sure how much of a reservoir is needed to fuel the plug, I figure you can't have too much.
I wonder if a shutoff valve would be a good thing to add in that heater line very close to the heater.
It would be difficult to reach once the hood and loader are installed, I like the block heater idea for cold applications. Easier on the engine it would seem.
I'm mulling this over. I'm semi retired but have a full time working member of my household (a lawyer) that needed to get out to court this week. I had the tractor plugged in on the timer but sometime in the night one of my outdoor cats must have knocked the plug loose. We had 2 1/2 feet of snow and drifts 4 feet high in places. I cold started the 770 at minus 18C (O F). Almost ran the battery down and it was hard on everything. I love the block heater, but Brad you've inspired me to try out a thermo-start. I just need a manifold with the threaded boss for the thermo-start and a few other bits. Tried to order one from the USA but the seller (in Wisconsin) won't ship to Canada so I need to look locally or in the UK. I was thinking for a reservoir that a fuel filter would suffice and give enough volume. Also, I would put a shutoff valve near the thermo-start. Haven't decided yet on actuation. Perhaps a toggle switch and timer and make one of the idiot lights dual purpose, most likely the generator light. I'm willing to drill one more hole in the dash for this probably just to the right of the ignition switch. Definitely need to be able to disable it when not wanted. The idea being, that to reset the logic, the starter switch needs to be turned off and then back to the run position. After a set period of time, the timer would time out and the thermo-start relay would cut out. I think I would prefer this to a new switch with two spring positions, the first one being for the pre-heating. Excited about doing this when the weather warms up. Thank-you Brad!
Thanks Frederick, the inlet manifold #914000 is the same on all 3 cylinder models, the ether plug located on top of your existing manifold is the same thread 7/8 bsf, that is on the heater plug. I have heard of using that hole for the heater plug, I wasn't sure so I purchased the other manifold and the threads are the same. The heat plug only allows fuel flow when the current is on. I show the electrical in the next video, you can power the plug through a separate switch and line, the advantage of the ignition switch is that it's spring loaded to turn the plug off once the engine is running. In summer you can unplug the electrical at the heater plug. Don't know how much fuel is needed for the heater, you can't have too much i guess. That's a lot of snow, glad to help thanks again.
@@TECH.274 Thanks Brad. I'm probably making this more complicated than necessary. I'll check tomorrow if there is room to install a heater from the top. I think the side would be more efficient and keep the flame away from the rubber intake hose. Although an inch either way probably doesn't matter.
@@frederickcwinterburn1837 I would think the engineers placed the heater plug in the best place for operation, keep searching for the intake used parts show up all the time. There are a lot of company's dismantling David Brown's, I will post the service manual page on 'how it works' for the heat plug on the community page.
@ Got an 885 manifold coming with the side bung. I'm going to allow power to it in the run position on the starter switch which will then be in series with another switch probably just to the right of the starter switch. That switch will activate a relay dedicated to the thermo-start. No timer with this simpler approach. Instead of repurposing the generator light or the oil light by turning them off when the themostart is ON, I might just use a 10 ohm resistor and a relay to make the temperature gauge go to the full hot position. (10 ohm resistor in parallel with the temperature sender while thermo-start is ON) I'd rather this than drill yet another hole in the dashboard for an indicating light or use a lighted switch that might not show up well in the lower part of the dash. I think it will be fun to make the temperature gauge dual duty!
@@frederickcwinterburn1837 You have put a lot of thought in this. The thermo-start needs power for 15 to 20 seconds before turning the engine, as long as you can turn it on and then off it should be able to do it's thing. I purchased a new ignition switch with the heat position, it wasn't difficult to install and only 1 additional wire was needed for the thermo-start. When the switch is activated for 15 sec. you can fell the heat on the manifold so you know it's working, by removing the rubber inlet hose you can see the fuel being vaporized. All you need is the parts and warmer weather lol, have fun.
Hi I had same idea for my 885, its got allready a bolt in designated spot for heater element, so just need heater and few fitings, and as for a reservoir I have found some small aluminium tanks on aliexpress and was thinking of putting them in series with that return, and as i can see in diagram, and how original tank was constructed it should not be a problem, great vid, support form Croatia
Thanks for the support, it's great to hear from Croatia. The heater plug #K928523 you can find it on line, and the isolating switch with key is also available #3107556R93. We show the electrical installation in the next video.