It's a bit like the idea of putting wheels on a suitcase, we could have had this decades ago. But it's finally here and Evolution are living up to their name.
I am fairly confident that the Vee blocks for the clamp face are meant to hold square tube up at an angle (ie. diamond cross section) when making flush cuts at 90 degrees. That way, the blade only ever cuts through two thin walls at once, and never encounters a wide flat cut area, like it would on the top and bottom faces of a normal cut. Carbide likes to clear the chips. Back when I had a dry cut saw, I fabricobbled some Vee blocks out of walnut for that purpose. They worked great. Highly recommended.
Just bought one for my own business. I’ve used hot cutoff, cold cutoff and bandsaws (both high and low end) and am very impressed by the capabilities of this saw. Very well thought out and executed.
I really like my Evolution saw, I was using other saws for fabrication and this is a great addition to the shop. I recently used it to champfer 1.5" solid bar stock 4 sides @30° with a clean and accurate surface without adding heat to the part. I completely stopped using my abrasive cut off saw. I appreciate the clamping system, it is well engineered. Helpful hint: For small cut offs that can tend to fly off I keep a roll of 2" painters tape next to the saw, the tape will usually hold the cut off piece in place.
Very informative video with relevant analysis. I bought this saw a month ago and I agree with your presentation of this saw. I also bought the 3 blades (thin steel, aluminum, stainless), Thanks for this nice and fairly complete coverage of the subject.
Nice presentation! I purchased one of the original Evolution chop saws years ago and as crude as it was, it was a huge step up from other methods of metal cutting and fabrication. It's nice to see that Evolution is continuing to be creative and innovative. It may be time for an upgrade.
That saw is awesome, I’ve been waiting to pull the trigger on a chop saw for a while and I’m glad I waited so I can get this beast. Thanks for sharing!
Great video. When you say dual miter, the term that you are looking for is compound miter. Also, a good check for square cuts is to cut a longer piece in half, leave in on the saw or place it against a straight edge. Then turn the cut off half over and butt the two pieces together. Any error will be doubled.
I am in total agreement with you. I have the lesser Evolution saw and it is better than any other saw I have. I would be in hog heaven with that dual miter saw. Thanks for the video keep on keeping on.
I didn't hear mentioned (maybe I missed it?) that this simply has more complete support for longer work, on both sides, making it way more usable with less fiddling around on longer pieces. I'd say that the added support is the biggest attraction of this saw. The dual miter is a bonus. One of my biggest complaints regarding power metalworking tools is that the bases or tables for supporting the work piece tend to be way too small. My drill press became a lot more easy to use and clamp to when I added a larger table. I'm going to take a look at my old style Evolution to see if I can widen its base. The original base is annoyingly narrow. Supporting the work piece well makes a big difference in how practical a tool is.
I dunno if it's still around but I believe evolution use to have a video explaining it kinda; the adjustment is about putting the least work required on the blade(efficiency; makes the blade last longer).... make it cut the least material at any point..... aka square tube start at a corner rather than down the middle, rectangle same idea... flat bar cut thing side rather than long side... L channel, top corner.... etc etc
Bought one, love it. Will do most of what I need. Menards had it much cheaper got on sale then my son had a 10% employee discount plus 11% rebate. Don't think they arry it anymore.
I've had mine for a several months, it's awesome, accurate and safe. Only thing missing is LED lighting for blade edge alignment. Got any ideas about how to do this? I have mine on a HF Hercules saw stand. So nice.
Nice review, however when you are cutting wider material...if you look at that sheet you showed at the beginning of the video the sliding aspect allows you to not center over the material necessarily but rather cut thru the thinnest profile of anything that your trying to cut at any given moment. its better for the blade to enter the corner of a piece of tube rather than the flat face. if you look at the paper it shows that as well on a piece of tube towards the bottom.
My experience with these types of saws is limited and apparrently i always saw what you called a hot saw. That scared me away. After using a bandsaw that didnt work very well on rectangular tubing,im most likely going to but this one. Thank you for the video!
Awesome say - I have it myself and it has relegated my 14" Fein Slugger cold saw to collecting dust now. One thing I'd like to point out - at 5:22 in, you brought the blade down (trigger off) and banged it against the 1" x 3" tube you were cutting. NO NO NO!!! NEVER bang a carbide blade into a metal work piece! As strong as those carbide teeth are, they are also very brittle and what you did could have at the least made a small fracture in one or more of the teeth upon impact, or possible broken one off. Always be ever so careful not to lower your blade so fast as to 'bang' into your work piece. Just saying. You did an excellent job of pointing out all the attributes of this saw, kudos also for explaining the different blades available and how they are specific to different metals. Well done my friend!
when squaring up the blade to fence it helps to lock the blade in the down position. lets you get both hands involved. wish i wouldn't have got the 15 in saw now.
I use two blades, a 14” aluminum blade and a Diablo steel/stainless blade. I’ve had my saw for seven years. I’ve made a huge number of cuts. I’ve replaced the Diablo once during that time, two years ago. The blade works very well on both steel and stainless. It cuts easily and smoothly. You don’t need to buy two,blades for steel and stainless just this one. It Also costs less, the first one cost about $67, the second one, with inflation, cost $84. It’s a bargain, really. I’m not affiliated with the company, and you’ll find a lot of very good reviews. It’s worth trying.
So, it’s basically a sliding woodcutting saw that has a slow speed and some mods. I’m surprised others haven’t done this before, but if this sells, others will have them too.
Chris awesome job reviewing and testing it out. Very nice job explaining and review this tool. Hopefully you get great use out of it for many years to come my friend. Can't wait to see more videos soon Chris. Keep up the great craftsmanship and hard work my friend. Forge On. Fab On. Weld On. Keep forge lit. Keep Making. Don't die. God bless.
I had this saw about 7 years ago The blades dulled so fast it was about $10 a cut I noticed that they have changed the teeth quite across blade manufacturers to what I thought they should be I hope they actually last longer
think it'll get through 1 and 1/2 inch hot rolled solid stock round bar, and 4x4 square tube with 3/8 walls, thanks, all square cuts? how's the blade last and replacement cost? Any use throwing a little oil on thicker cuts? Just wondering ...... wanna spend it once, yah know. @@DerekConwayTX
@curiousbystander9193 i cut 1/4 wall 4x4 posts weekly. Never cut that big of round bar but id just cut it slow. Yeah it cuts square pretty much right outta the box. Get the evolution blades for sure and take care of them you should get about 600 cuts
sweet, thanks for your info man..... that's like a shot of whiskey here tonight, and I aint a drinker.....3/8 shouldn't be a problem then with 4x4.... and what special care do you speak of outside of stuff like not dinging the teeth against metal when not running and such...? Thanks again....happy cutting....gosh, pricing out metal here is like shopping for a new car....just painful@@DerekConwayTX
I would say yes, the adjustability and mitering is a huge advantage. Also, I really do like the clamping setup on this vs some of the other saws I have, and the saw head adjustability to the center line of the cut. Time will tell how it holds but but so far I’m very impressed!
Although you dont *need* to use lubricant/cutting fluid with these saws I am told it will make the blade last significantly longer. I have not tested this myself but I do put a small drop of cutting fluid on before each cut when I use my similar saw.
Very impressed with this saw. However, I have a small home shop witha wood mitre saw that makes me wonder is this saw can be used either way to save space in my shop? Will the Evolution work with wood as well?
Only the vertical table saw can saw sheet metal. That makes it the most generally useful since it can do everything. The saw you are showing has many limitations. You showed somewhat trivial examples for your demonstration. So the examples were geared to this saw. Of course it excelled, it was working on its best use cases.
I have been using the Rage sliding miter saw about the time they entered the market u can make frames with it might not be as friendly as the new machine but a nice feature the dual metal blade for steel and aluminum if I am to lazy to change my set up on my big band saw I will use the miter saw I wouldn't go buy the new cut off saw unless the old one died .
@Make Everything First off, Great Video on what looks to be a Great Saw! Aaron at West Weld had already made me a Believer & soon to be Buyer of this Saw. I just wanted to let you know something about how you’re Cutting that is going to shorten the Life of your Blades. This is something I learned from Evolution themselves when I bought my old 15” Evolution Chop Saw, the EVOSAW380. Anytime you’re cutting a piece of Rectangular Shaped Metal, you should cut it in its “Tallest/Vertical” Form. Like the 1”x3” Tubing that you were cutting. That should be placed in the Saw to where the Saw Blade is coming down on the 1” wide part of the Tube, meaning the 3” part is sitting Vertically against the Fence of the Saw. I am just passing in the knowledge that was shared with me by the Engineers at Evolution. I realize that if you were needing to cut a Miter across the 3” face of the Tubing this wouldn’t be possible, but should always try to remember this when making straight 90 degree Cross Cuts. They swear that this Extends Blade Life by quite a bit, by as much as 35 - 45% That’s a lot more Cuts per Blade before having to shell out 100+$ for a new Blade. Just thought I’d pass that along to you. I am a lil OCD so that has stuck in my Head ever since the day they told me this. Keep up the Great Work!!!
I just bought this saw. Have you used it to cut hot billets? Wondering if I could use it while making Damascus without having to let the steel cool first.
It has always driven me crazy the way regular chop saws handle miters. The angle is terrible to set, the clamp is useless on an angle, and like you said, you either need a huge sweep area or you need to pivot the saw. It’s mind blowing that it’s taken this long.
I’m a home DIYer. I have been looking at the Evolution saw for a few years. You did not show it, if the saw could do compound miter joints. I do understand there is forces involved with this type of cutting. If the saw could do compound miter cuts then it would not only add to the metal side of the shop, it would also replace my Dewalt compound miter saw. One saw to do it ALL!!!
Well thanks a lot for showing me this. Now I have to figure out what to say to my wife when a big box shows up. Also, I noticed a line of tape measures by the big saw. Do they all measure the same?
Very impressive. I have the DeWalt carbide blade saw, it’s ok, but the vise is not accurate and not even close to precision, it’s sloppy, and only bevels to one side. Had it 8 years so it’s had a workout. I will truly look into this Beast you’re demonstrating. This looks like a Great replacement for the old DeWalt! Thanks CHRIS! ⭐️⭐️⭐️⭐️⭐️
I know the thin steel blade has 90 teeth vs the standard mild steel blades 66 teeth. I’d guess it helps with accuracy and tear out. Honestly I’ve never used the thin blade, but I know you definitely want the stainless blade if your planning to do stainless work!
I run a cold, cutting sawblade on an old DeWalt sliding compound miter saw have for years. Does anyone see the benefit I would achieve with this saw over the situation I’m using. By the way, after a few years, I added a speed controller to Dial in the RPM’s as I use different diameter sawblade I did the same thing with an old tablesaw
@@jeremyspecce Every post I've read about using the speed controllers indicate you lose too much torque. I hate having to buy a dedicated saw like this for my limited use.
Why would you remove the fourth pin at 13:22, and then show the damn near perfect fit with only three? Two surfaces cut with a disk align, yay! Is it 90? Who cares!
I bought an Evolution metal cutting skill saw. I could never get it to cut straight in thicker material. I called and they felt bad about it but did nothing to fix my saw.
I’ve been using the Rage DB saw for over 5 years (it’s in my dual miter saw station video) and it’s given me very unique cutting capability. Interesting that this doesn’t slide like a typical SCMS. Sliding on the Rage is a bit dicey, especially for large cuts at an angle. A fixed cutting pivot seems safer, larger blade too. My blades dull very fast as well and I think it’s partly because the smaller diameter blade would cause a higher tooth wear rate. My saw is super loud, though. And I wouldn’t bother using it for woodworking.
I have a sears radial arm saw that i use for cutting steel. Either with abrasive wheel or steel cutting blade from harbor freight. Also have band saw. Plasma torch and automatic feed table with forward and backward and also adjustable feed speed that i made for Plasma torch
I disagree, this doesn't look like it was designed for metal as it doesn't cope round tube. Would be nice if this had the ability to cope. I have the S380. I bought brackets to mount it on my DeWalt chop saw stand. BTW, nice shop!👍
It's a bit like the idea of putting wheels on a suitcase, we could have had this decades ago. But it's finally here and Evolution are living up to their name.
I am fairly confident that the Vee blocks for the clamp face are meant to hold square tube up at an angle (ie. diamond cross section) when making flush cuts at 90 degrees. That way, the blade only ever cuts through two thin walls at once, and never encounters a wide flat cut area, like it would on the top and bottom faces of a normal cut. Carbide likes to clear the chips.
Back when I had a dry cut saw, I fabricobbled some Vee blocks out of walnut for that purpose. They worked great. Highly recommended.
Diagonal cross section is very helpful when cutting 90s but doing any sort of mitered angle cut your tubing has to lay flat.
Just bought one for my own business. I’ve used hot cutoff, cold cutoff and bandsaws (both high and low end) and am very impressed by the capabilities of this saw. Very well thought out and executed.
Are you still liking it after a year? All that plastic scares me a tiny bit as to longevity...
I really like my Evolution saw, I was using other saws for fabrication and this is a great addition to the shop. I recently used it to champfer 1.5" solid bar stock 4 sides @30° with a clean and accurate surface without adding heat to the part. I completely stopped using my abrasive cut off saw. I appreciate the clamping system, it is well engineered. Helpful hint: For small cut offs that can tend to fly off I keep a roll of 2" painters tape next to the saw, the tape will usually hold the cut off piece in place.
Looks like a very handy piece of kit Chris! Great demo mate! :)
Very informative video with relevant analysis. I bought this saw a month ago and I agree with your presentation of this saw. I also bought the 3 blades (thin steel, aluminum, stainless), Thanks for this nice and fairly complete coverage of the subject.
Nice presentation! I purchased one of the original Evolution chop saws years ago and as crude as it was, it was a huge step up from other methods of metal cutting and fabrication. It's nice to see that Evolution is continuing to be creative and innovative. It may be time for an upgrade.
That saw is awesome, I’ve been waiting to pull the trigger on a chop saw for a while and I’m glad I waited so I can get this beast. Thanks for sharing!
im late to the party thanks for the shout out man .... ive been really liking that saw best in class for sure
You’ve done a great job taking it from good to great! I think there’s a market for the stiffening block you made for the back!
@@MakeEverything thanks man ……I have been considering it. I think it helped with the vibration significantly …..even without it solid saw though
Where cam I get that block? Just bought an evolution
Great video. When you say dual miter, the term that you are looking for is compound miter. Also, a good check for square cuts is to cut a longer piece in half, leave in on the saw or place it against a straight edge. Then turn the cut off half over and butt the two pieces together. Any error will be doubled.
Thanks mate. Really appreciate you highlighting this saw, and it’s features.
Evolution has great products. Thorough demonstration of this upgraded new model. I appreciate the demos you provide! 👍 😃
One of the best videos for comparitive product review. Great job! Really like the dual miter feature A real time saving product.
I am in total agreement with you. I have the lesser Evolution saw and it is better than any other saw I have. I would be in hog heaven with that dual miter saw. Thanks for the video keep on keeping on.
I didn't hear mentioned (maybe I missed it?) that this simply has more complete support for longer work, on both sides, making it way more usable with less fiddling around on longer pieces. I'd say that the added support is the biggest attraction of this saw. The dual miter is a bonus.
One of my biggest complaints regarding power metalworking tools is that the bases or tables for supporting the work piece tend to be way too small. My drill press became a lot more easy to use and clamp to when I added a larger table. I'm going to take a look at my old style Evolution to see if I can widen its base. The original base is annoyingly narrow. Supporting the work piece well makes a big difference in how practical a tool is.
The Evolution saws are great for angle and tubing. For solid stock, like we typically see in a machine shop, the band saw is better.
I've had mine for a hot minute it is amazing. The clamp takes some getting used to but it's awesome for custom steel handrail.
I dunno if it's still around but I believe evolution use to have a video explaining it kinda; the adjustment is about putting the least work required on the blade(efficiency; makes the blade last longer).... make it cut the least material at any point..... aka square tube start at a corner rather than down the middle, rectangle same idea... flat bar cut thing side rather than long side... L channel, top corner.... etc etc
It's best feature for me is the blade doesn't get smaller so fast like abrasive cutoff saws do. And that also brings a cleaner shop.
Bought one, love it. Will do most of what I need. Menards had it much cheaper got on sale then my son had a 10% employee discount plus 11% rebate. Don't think they arry it anymore.
would have liked to see the test against solid stock, as well as the max solid / pipe capacity that the saw offers. Excellent saw looks like
I have used it to cut a forklift fork and it was a perfect cut, it was cleaner faster, and cooler than using a bandsaw and abrasive wheel.
There's yt of a guy cutting train rail
I've had mine for a several months, it's awesome, accurate and safe. Only thing missing is LED lighting for blade edge alignment. Got any ideas about how to do this?
I have mine on a HF Hercules saw stand. So nice.
That’s a good point, I’ve done it on other saws, I’m sure it’s possible on this… I’ll have to give it a try
@@MakeEverything the protection shield gets in the way of making it easy. I'd like to see what you think about it.
As for the angle situation for peace of mind you could use a piece of square tube inside the angle
Nice review, however when you are cutting wider material...if you look at that sheet you showed at the beginning of the video the sliding aspect allows you to not center over the material necessarily but rather cut thru the thinnest profile of anything that your trying to cut at any given moment. its better for the blade to enter the corner of a piece of tube rather than the flat face. if you look at the paper it shows that as well on a piece of tube towards the bottom.
So Wise , Thank you . Such a fine tool .
I’ve been using an evolution saw for a few years now, total game changer
Great vid. So glad they finally developed this saw.
My experience with these types of saws is limited and apparrently i always saw what you called a hot saw. That scared me away. After using a bandsaw that didnt work very well on rectangular tubing,im most likely going to but this one. Thank you for the video!
Awesome say - I have it myself and it has relegated my 14" Fein Slugger cold saw to collecting dust now. One thing I'd like to point out - at 5:22 in, you brought the blade down (trigger off) and banged it against the 1" x 3" tube you were cutting. NO NO NO!!! NEVER bang a carbide blade into a metal work piece! As strong as those carbide teeth are, they are also very brittle and what you did could have at the least made a small fracture in one or more of the teeth upon impact, or possible broken one off. Always be ever so careful not to lower your blade so fast as to 'bang' into your work piece. Just saying. You did an excellent job of pointing out all the attributes of this saw, kudos also for explaining the different blades available and how they are specific to different metals. Well done my friend!
when squaring up the blade to fence it helps to lock the blade in the down position. lets you get both hands involved. wish i wouldn't have got the 15 in saw now.
I use two blades, a 14” aluminum blade and a Diablo steel/stainless blade. I’ve had my saw for seven years. I’ve made a huge number of cuts. I’ve replaced the Diablo once during that time, two years ago. The blade works very well on both steel and stainless. It cuts easily and smoothly. You don’t need to buy two,blades for steel and stainless just this one. It Also costs less, the first one cost about $67, the second one, with inflation, cost $84. It’s a bargain, really. I’m not affiliated with the company, and you’ll find a lot of very good reviews. It’s worth trying.
So, it’s basically a sliding woodcutting saw that has a slow speed and some mods. I’m surprised others haven’t done this before, but if this sells, others will have them too.
Exactly these guys rip everyone off with retarded prices. Just wait till the competition shows and sells them like vervor does for 250$
Chris awesome job reviewing and testing it out. Very nice job explaining and review this tool. Hopefully you get great use out of it for many years to come my friend. Can't wait to see more videos soon Chris. Keep up the great craftsmanship and hard work my friend. Forge On. Fab On. Weld On. Keep forge lit. Keep Making. Don't die. God bless.
That blade also works for wood? I live in both worlds (wood and metal) and could use an upgrade on my old power miter box (which is “old tech”).
Thank you so much sir for this video !!!!
I had this saw about 7 years ago
The blades dulled so fast it was about $10 a cut
I noticed that they have changed the teeth quite across blade manufacturers to what I thought they should be
I hope they actually last longer
Can this saw double up as your go-to miter saw for wood?
Just got mine in and can't wait to fire it up!!! great vid!!!
any thoughts about your experience with your saw?
@curiousbystander9193 i cut really long pieces so its nice to set up once and cut 90 and 45 and any other angles. Smooth saw
think it'll get through 1 and 1/2 inch hot rolled solid stock round bar, and 4x4 square tube with 3/8 walls, thanks, all square cuts? how's the blade last and replacement cost? Any use throwing a little oil on thicker cuts? Just wondering ...... wanna spend it once, yah know. @@DerekConwayTX
@curiousbystander9193 i cut 1/4 wall 4x4 posts weekly. Never cut that big of round bar but id just cut it slow. Yeah it cuts square pretty much right outta the box. Get the evolution blades for sure and take care of them you should get about 600 cuts
sweet, thanks for your info man..... that's like a shot of whiskey here tonight, and I aint a drinker.....3/8 shouldn't be a problem then with 4x4.... and what special care do you speak of outside of stuff like not dinging the teeth against metal when not running and such...? Thanks again....happy cutting....gosh, pricing out metal here is like shopping for a new car....just painful@@DerekConwayTX
I love my 1st gen evolution nothing compares to these brand of saws.
What about solid bar stock? these any good at say 3" round 4140?
Very good and informative video 🤙👊👏
maybe dumb question but can you use it on wood as well?
Great saw it’s a game changer
Last week I got a like new 14" Evolution saw w/ metal blade at an estate sale for $125. I was very happy with it until I saw this video...
What is the advantage of this saw over say a deep cut (5") band saw on a good stand?
Is it just the mitering that's so valuable?
(asking as a rookie)
I would say yes, the adjustability and mitering is a huge advantage. Also, I really do like the clamping setup on this vs some of the other saws I have, and the saw head adjustability to the center line of the cut. Time will tell how it holds but but so far I’m very impressed!
Can you cut lumber with this too?
Although you dont *need* to use lubricant/cutting fluid with these saws I am told it will make the blade last significantly longer. I have not tested this myself but I do put a small drop of cutting fluid on before each cut when I use my similar saw.
Nah. Didnt work for me.
Very impressed with this saw. However, I have a small home shop witha wood mitre saw that makes me wonder is this saw can be used either way to save space in my shop? Will the Evolution work with wood as well?
They make another model that does wood and metal
Hopefully in that same model, wished i knew where to look. Time will come and Ill find it. thanks. God bless
Could this do solid material that was larger? Like a solid 2" bar or something.
very good advertisement, thank you
Only the vertical table saw can saw sheet metal. That makes it the most generally useful since it can do everything. The saw you are showing has many limitations. You showed somewhat trivial examples for your demonstration. So the examples were geared to this saw. Of course it excelled, it was working on its best use cases.
I have been using the Rage sliding miter saw about the time they entered the market u can make frames with it might not be as friendly as the new machine but a nice feature the dual metal blade for steel and aluminum if I am to lazy to change my set up on my big band saw I will use the miter saw I wouldn't go buy the new cut off saw unless the old one died .
Angle iron miters on my current chop saw always fails me. Can’t wait to pick up one of these
@Make Everything First off, Great Video on what looks to be a Great Saw! Aaron at West Weld had already made me a Believer & soon to be Buyer of this Saw.
I just wanted to let you know something about how you’re Cutting that is going to shorten the Life of your Blades. This is something I learned from Evolution themselves when I bought my old 15” Evolution Chop Saw, the EVOSAW380.
Anytime you’re cutting a piece of Rectangular Shaped Metal, you should cut it in its “Tallest/Vertical” Form. Like the 1”x3” Tubing that you were cutting. That should be placed in the Saw to where the Saw Blade is coming down on the 1” wide part of the Tube, meaning the 3” part is sitting Vertically against the Fence of the Saw.
I am just passing in the knowledge that was shared with me by the Engineers at Evolution. I realize that if you were needing to cut a Miter across the 3” face of the Tubing this wouldn’t be possible, but should always try to remember this when making straight 90 degree Cross Cuts.
They swear that this Extends Blade Life by quite a bit, by as much as 35 - 45%
That’s a lot more Cuts per Blade before having to shell out 100+$ for a new Blade.
Just thought I’d pass that along to you.
I am a lil OCD so that has stuck in my Head ever since the day they told me this.
Keep up the Great Work!!!
I just bought this saw. Have you used it to cut hot billets? Wondering if I could use it while making Damascus without having to let the steel cool first.
It has always driven me crazy the way regular chop saws handle miters. The angle is terrible to set, the clamp is useless on an angle, and like you said, you either need a huge sweep area or you need to pivot the saw. It’s mind blowing that it’s taken this long.
Only thing I wish it was is a compound miter. I love the saw, put mine on horrible freights hercules stand.
any thoughts on cutting 4x4 hot rolled square tubing, 3/8 thick walls, square cuts? Will that blade last for a couple hundred cuts?
I’m a home DIYer. I have been looking at the Evolution saw for a few years. You did not show it, if the saw could do compound miter joints. I do understand there is forces involved with this type of cutting. If the saw could do compound miter cuts then it would not only add to the metal side of the shop, it would also replace my Dewalt compound miter saw. One saw to do it ALL!!!
Just rotate the piece 90 degrees then make your second miter cut. Even woodworkers do this on compound miter saws.
Well thanks a lot for showing me this. Now I have to figure out what to say to my wife when a big box shows up.
Also, I noticed a line of tape measures by the big saw. Do they all measure the same?
Are all these cuts shown in real time? Thanks.
Very impressive. I have the DeWalt carbide blade saw, it’s ok, but the vise is not accurate and not even close to precision, it’s sloppy, and only bevels to one side. Had it 8 years so it’s had a workout. I will truly look into this Beast you’re demonstrating. This looks like a Great replacement for the old DeWalt! Thanks CHRIS!
⭐️⭐️⭐️⭐️⭐️
Thats the problem i had was getting it to cut true. Everytime i changed my miter, i had re check it. Ended up giving it away.
I’ve never used the cold cutting saws how does these blades work on oil field pipe? 2 3/8” and 2 7/8” pipe
I don’t have one. I don’t need one. But I want one 😂
I can see having a different blade for aluminum etc but do you think you actually need a different blade for thin mild steel?
I know the thin steel blade has 90 teeth vs the standard mild steel blades 66 teeth. I’d guess it helps with accuracy and tear out. Honestly I’ve never used the thin blade, but I know you definitely want the stainless blade if your planning to do stainless work!
Speaking from 5 years of heavy use with one of the older evolution saws, the cold cut "feature" doesnt last that long especially on thicker materials
you think that would struggled much with 1 and 1/2 inch solid stock, cold rolled?
I run a cold, cutting sawblade on an old DeWalt sliding compound miter saw have for years.
Does anyone see the benefit I would achieve with this saw over the situation I’m using.
By the way, after a few years, I added a speed controller to Dial in the RPM’s as I use different diameter sawblade I did the same thing with an old tablesaw
I was wondering, very interesting about the speed control. Do know how it works, like does it reduce the torque?
@@jeremyspecce Every post I've read about using the speed controllers indicate you lose too much torque. I hate having to buy a dedicated saw like this for my limited use.
It can cut steel 2x2 tubes, but for machine shop use, could it cut 1/2x1/2 bars all the way to 2x2 bars?
Hey bro, amazing video and awesome product. Really love your channel. I'm a fabricator from South Africa. Any idea how can I get my hands on one?
ok, so what do i do to the wood choppers to make them good for steel, and which of the economical blades is best?
Does the saw need to be tightened to the base? looks like there is a lot of movement.
What is the maximum cutting size.price of blades and approx. life span of blade
I just bought one. My old chop saw, and band saw have become instantly outdated.
Really interested in this saw BUT I’m curious what you think of the metal blades that are made for regular chop saws?
Where did you bought it from?
Can you use a carbide saw blade on hot saw, or would that be asking for trouble?
Great video
I assume RPM would be an issue.
The clamps on the front need cranks rather than knobs; as it is your wrists are going to get all kinds of sore from using it for more than a few cuts.
Why would you remove the fourth pin at 13:22, and then show the damn near perfect fit with only three? Two surfaces cut with a disk align, yay! Is it 90? Who cares!
Lmaoo fr
Have you cut tool steel yet?
good stuff
Any chance of a link - the evolution site geo blocks Australia to a handful of old models
Are these saws also available in the 230v or 240v versions ?
Does it use fluid ?
the problem with these is the blade is still rotating fast and they dont last forever and what do ya think happens when the blade goes
How long does the blades last?
I bought an Evolution metal cutting skill saw. I could never get it to cut straight in thicker material.
I called and they felt bad about it but did nothing to fix my saw.
I’ve been using the Rage DB saw for over 5 years (it’s in my dual miter saw station video) and it’s given me very unique cutting capability. Interesting that this doesn’t slide like a typical SCMS. Sliding on the Rage is a bit dicey, especially for large cuts at an angle. A fixed cutting pivot seems safer, larger blade too. My blades dull very fast as well and I think it’s partly because the smaller diameter blade would cause a higher tooth wear rate. My saw is super loud, though. And I wouldn’t bother using it for woodworking.
I've been using a lowly jig saw to cut 1 inch x 3 inch wide 1018 :( Talk about frustration :(
How's the noise from it ? :) :) :)
My first evolution saw burned up the SUPER wimpy speed controller the first day. Makes me question all their products.
I have a sears radial arm saw that i use for cutting steel. Either with abrasive wheel or steel cutting blade from harbor freight. Also have band saw. Plasma torch and automatic feed table with forward and backward and also adjustable feed speed that i made for Plasma torch
Sounds like its made out of plastic. Or maybe just thin aluminum?
I know there are parts of the base that are aluminum but this sucker is pretty heavy at 77lbs… feels very well made and it very solid!
What’s the size of the circular blade and how many teeth does it have?
I disagree, this doesn't look like it was designed for metal as it doesn't cope round tube. Would be nice if this had the ability to cope. I have the S380. I bought brackets to mount it on my DeWalt chop saw stand. BTW, nice shop!👍
Well that beats going through lots of blades on a regular miter saw 😅 3 cuts and it's a wrap 👀
What is the RPM of the blade?
How much is a blade……How many cuts will you get from a blade ?
You want to cut that flat or rectangle material vertical to save wear and tear on your blade