How To Install Impact Windows on Concrete Block Homes - STEP BY STEP
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- Опубліковано 16 лип 2022
- Need to install hurricane impact windows on your home? If so, then this video is definitely for you. See all the steps required for replacing your old non-impact rated aluminum awning, jalousie, or single/double hung windows with impact windows. This video shows the entire process step by step for installing impact windows on a concrete block home in South Florida. The impact windows shown in this video are Home Depot's American Craftsman Series 70 double glazed vinyl impact windows. Installing aluminum impact windows is the same process, the only difference is how you trim the flange. Enjoy the video!
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That's a lot of work and you did a very professional job!! Thanks for the very informative and helpful video!
Thank you and you're welcome! Glad you enjoyed the video. It sure is a lot of work.
@Project Farm Hey, Todd. Imagine seeing you here.
@@electronicsNmore Your window looks just like mine. Looks like we could live in the same neighborhood. I'm also in South Florida (Oakland Park).
So Todd,, you surf UTube too,, urs is one of my 1st channels.. Lol
@@electronicsNmore99aw
What a great educational video for us that live in Florida! Thank you!
I think that you did a more precise and secure job than professional installers would do.
All the way down to WD 40 on your finger at the end. This is, by far, the best made DIY vid I’ve ever watched. You showed each step beautifully and clearly. I actually feel like I can do this and MY 60 year old SWFL home is screaming for new windows. If I have to fix one more jalousie window crank I’m going to scream. Thanks so much.
5 golden stars! This was one educational video! You spoke well, very thorough and it was not boring, not even for one small second!
As a South Florida I really needed this video. Been looking for a while but nobody covered it. Great work 👏
You did an excellent job. And the hard way too, no power tools. I understand about feeling the screw as it goes into the material. There are some professional installation videos on UA-cam that do not do as good a job.
Thank you for sharing the fruits of your labors. Much appreciated.
Simply outstanding. EVERYTHING!!! You're the man and you have no idea how much you've helped me out with this video. Thank you!
Your patients, thorough description and skill bring me back every time..very thoughtful demonstration sets you apart.
Thank you
Excellent. Great teaching pedagogy. Thorough and easy to understand!
Great information. Thank you for taking the time to put this together.
Finally a video I can learn from. Saving myself some money. Thank you.
Thanks for explaining the details to look for.. Nice to see such professionalism..
I have the same type of window in my son’s bedroom, it’s about 52” wide x 50”H all the linkage is broken and it won’t open or close right and I had to calk and screw it shut, made it through Ian surprisingly. I really appreciate the thorough explanation I was afraid to remove the old one. I had no idea what I was getting into. There are some window replacement businesses here in Port Charlotte but for one window. I’m going to try it myself, thanks again.
Thanks for watching!
@@electronicsNmore You’re welcome, How did you measure the existing awning windows dimensions to accurately determine the height and width of the replacement?
Very Professional procedure, but way more than I'm willing to take on. I would sooner consider adding a hurricane impact window to the one already there, but my lower back wouldn't like that either. You're really great about covering all the details and all of the steps and I watched the whole thing, Liked and commented to help you with the UA-cam algorithm because of that.
I really did not find any other video showing the installation process in this much detail. Thank you 🙏🏼
Glad you enjoyed the video! Thanks for watching :-)
Thank you for your thorough and logical step by step process. I feel a little better and more confident that I can tackle a similar window replacement now.
You're welcome! Make sure you modify the sides and top. Do as shown in the video, and you'll have really great results.
Great video! Thanks for posting.
That was a lot of work! Nice job
Great job. I am about to remove 2 of these exact windows in the home studio I am building! Thanks for the detailed video!
Nice job. Thanks for posting. Have been looking for a while with no luck. 1st video that matches my condition. Very helpful.
Awesome brother!! Best detailed video ever!!!
In a nutshell, good video.
Very nice job and detail explanation.
Great tutorial . Thank u so much for posting this video . 👍👍
Huge improvement to the house! Also it looks like you did a better job than the professionals who replaced my mother's windows. 👍
Wow, thanks!
Nice job with good details. This will help me with my basement window project.
Great work 🙌
Great video. Thought about installing my new windows instead of paying $12k !! Thanks so much !!
Great job!
Brilliant information regarding concrete block homes. Currently building concrete off grid homestead using roman concrete technique. Its a science project adapting to climate storms ie cyclones and floods, also drought prone as well. Mud/cob/adobe housing would be nice but inefficient due to obvious circumstances. The metal aggregate is scoria lava pebbles for insulation purposes, bedrock pile foundation. Your window installation is like the heavens opening up with sunshine 🤣 great job mate.
Greetings from new zealand 🇳🇿 🤙🏼
You did a fantastic job explaining how to do this!!!!! very helpful and exactly what I needed for my house! You easily saved me several hours!
Great to hear! Just do as shown in the video replacing the wood bucks on each side and top of the window
Great video, thank you sir
great video!!! thanks
Great job on installing this window. Living in the upper Midwest, it's a bit strange for me to see how a window is installed on a cinder or concrete wall.
Nice job, thanks for putting the correct name for the window since I was questining myself when you stated it improper. lol
Glass is expensive maybe use tyhe glass for encase solar since the most expensive part to solar is the glass protective casing at times.
since you took it out without a mess I assume its reusable.
as usual you makwe things look easy since you explain it well.
The sealer caulk smells for days.
If you do concrete cutting like that regularly, it may be worth it to invest in a full face respirator. I have the 3M 7800 respirator, and with the 3M 2091 pink disk filters, no dust gets in. [Note: they 2091 filters are only good for dust, particulates, mist, and smoke. They don't filter out vapors, VOCs, or gases, and can't protect from a low-oxygen environment. There are various filters and cartridges for things like that, so you'd want to check a chart of available filters.] I also have a half-face respirator but it can't do anything to keep dust or vapors out of the eyes. The full face respirator can be outfitted with a lens frame to hold prescription lenses so those who wear glasses won't have to keep them on which results in the bows poking out through the gasket and degrading the seal around the face.
Thank you
You're welcome! Glad you found the video helpful. Be sure to check out my wide range of videos, and share my channel with others. Thank you
few things you could have done differently to make your process ALOT easier on yourself but overall very nice job, i actually run a big window department in NW FL and hurricane Michael definitely had our work cut out for us in replacing windows
What are those few things?
Awesome video thank you.
One thing about the tile sills here in South FL is they do last a lifetime wit little maintenance
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What I'm doing now, double checking how my buddy want to do it. :)
Great video! 1 question why cut the concrete? I would buy a smaller window 1 1/2 width and hieght (bedroom windows need to meet egress guidelines) use a presure treated 1x4 attached with tapcon (may need to cut width for fit) directly install window to frame shim window for plum and attach the window, use marine grade caulking finish with pvc trim - done in half the time, less tools and dust.
As always, great detailed video. How long, on average, did it take you to do one window?
I decided to brush on OSI Liquid flashing around the buc, all the way around before I installed my windows.
If you put a bead of caught around the window before you put in the window it will help a lot.
Great vid, I just finished mine in SW Florida, could have used the video. Lol
I just used the blade to cut both sides of the old window, pulled screws and hit with a mallet all around and the whole windows came right out. I used PVC for the wood sides 2.5" deep and construction cemented them in, no wood on top or bottom and measured so windows would sit almost flush all the way around.
Windows went right in and tapconed them in with 2.5" tapcons. Argued with inspectors and done. Lol
They wanted longer tapcons and I asked for what? The tapcon goes through the whole cement block till its air except at the top and that has massive penetration with no wood.
Oh well, he signed off and they are fantastic. I used Jen Weld and they seem to be great also. Was sore from all the tapcons drilled which is overkill.
Old House windows were 55 years old with 3 to 4 small screws on each side going into the wood and now they want a million tapcons. Lol
Glad you enjoyed the video. 2 more windows then I can call for an inspection. Thanks for watching!
@@electronicsNmore what were the requirements dow nen there. I used 5/8 pvc and 2.5 tapcons. The inspector said I was suppose to use wood and we argued because the pvc was waterproof. Gees these inspectors are pains. Lol
@@Michael-qy1jz They like to see PT wood buck and at least 1.25" penetration into concrete. I was originally going to use 3.25", but they were too long, switched to 2.75" Tapcons.
@@electronicsNmore When they ask me if it's my house, I tell them no.
I tell them it's the kings house or thier house, because if it was my house, I wouldn't be asking permission to work on or upgrade my homes and rentals. I know they hate that. Lol.
I tell then mine are all paid for and I dont own any of them. Lol
I'm in SW Florida too and have a couple questions. How did you measure the openings to make sure you ordered the proper sized windows and what brand did you use? Thanks in advance.
good
Excellent. most contractors just come in like a wrecking ball.
So true. Glad you enjoyed the video!
Thanks for this great informative video! I have one question, can you talk a bit about how you measured the windows for purchase ive heard several pieces of advice that vary between getting the windows 1/8th smaller than the opening to measuring from the narrowest point of the metal on the inside. Seems like yours line up very well so any tips would help greatly as i order 20 windows for my central fl home!!
/Humor On: I personally would have opted for the Godzilla Shutter (TM) system to protect my windows. They are hinged drop-down shutters made of 351 stainless steel and they're resistant to hurricanes, flying debris, small arms fire, and of course 1950s and '60s sci-fi monsters of all descriptions - as long as the monsters are shown in black & white /Humor Off:
I'd like to confirm with the NOA / product approval for the engineers specifications, however most window NOA's are similar. Here are a few mistakes in the installation process.
1. The window frame must be fully supported by the buck or concrete structural substrate. The header/ top buck is not wide enough.
2. All bucks must be flashed with sealant on the side that is against the block prior to fastening it.
3. No window can be mounted on top of a marble window sill, it must be mounted on top of structural substrate, buck, or high-strength concrete. This will transfer the impact or wind load to the structure.
4. Modifying the window by cutting the flange voids the warranty.
Thanks for your comment. Yes, normally all 3 sides are full width(Some I did that way). According to the certified installation instructions for the window by the manufacturer in the state of Florida, it states, "For masonry or concrete window openings a 1x window buck MAY BE USED. It didn't say MUST BE. You also have to realize that many older homes have a header that is made out of block with large pockets(Not poured solid/no lintel) which make widening or replacing the buck a very bad idea. You'll end up with large voids after cutting away and chipping. After seeing my old lousy aluminum awning windows tolerate 100mph+, the new windows will easily handle winds well above 100mph. According to the inspector, and other installers, tapcons are only required for attaching new window bucks to concrete block. The building inspector said how the window was positioned up against the tile sill on top of a thick mortar bed, was just fine. I tried cutting away one window's sill at the start, and in doing that I started exposing concrete block cores. Very bad idea. The way I installed the windows was ideal for my home. As for trimming the flange, it won't void the warranty, because it has very little if any effect on the window and you cannot see that it was trimmed after applying the polyurethane sealant.
Amazing video! Couldn’t have been more thoroughly explained!
One question: I’ve only ever done one impact window (on an old house) and I remember having to add flashing to the sill, as per instructions. Was there no such requirement for you?
was wondering the same myself . . .
I seldom see flashing on block homes in south fl. I dont think water intrusion is a common issue once the block and sealant is in place
@@---ny4ys I just had my impact windows and doors done a month ago. I asked them specifically about this and the answer was exactly what you said. Water intrusion isn’t an issue.
I saw your video about installing an impact window and I loved it, I only have one question, Window size typically refers to what when ordering my new windows?
Should I give them the inside frame to frame dimension (minus ¼ inch) or the outside flange to flange dimension (minus ¼ inch) ?
Let's say one of my Rough Opening is 48 x 25, what size window with flange would you order?
hopefully you can help me
Thanks
Mario
I'm dealing with the old garage window where both sides of the sill angle down. How do I approach that?
Excellent video
You don't flash the sill before putting in the window?
I recently had windows installed in my house. I’m in South Fl and have a Cbs home. I have horizontal slider windows. One room keeps having water enter and runs down the wall. I’ve checked the caulking and everything redid it but water is still coming in. I’ve redone the dry wall already and thought I found the problem but I was wrong. I guess my question would be Are the mounting screw that run across the bottom of the window frame supposed to have caulking to seal them ?
Good job. Did you consider temporarily screwing the 1x3 to the existing wood strip and scoring the masonry with your grinder?
No, making a line to cut is best, otherwise you may chew up the PT wood using it as a guide when cutting.
Very helpful, thank you. My window mfg. recommends resting the window on sill shims. In your example how would you address that issue since you had no sill buck. Also widening the jamb bucks to accommodate the impact windows without installing a sill buck creates a void behind the bottom flange of the window. Is that a problem?
You're only supposed to do the sides and the top. The lower part of the window sits against or on top of my tile sill then sealed with polyurethane. The window isnt going anywhere.
It depends on the manufacturer you use. There are some which require fasteners in the sill. This particular brand did not. Yours probably required screws in the sill.
I’m from nj we do windows so different
Are permits required? Fantastic DIY video, thanks!
Yes
This sounds so crazy. Pay money to someone else so you can improve yourself. The improvement has nothing to do with the person sitting back counting your money. We have slowly set ourselves up for a royal screw over scam.
Great video overall. Love your method of attaching the shims!
A couple of comments: A building permit is required to install windows and don't recall that being mentioned. Bucks do not have to be tapconned to the block and can be nailed. The buck must fully support the frame so the 1x2 at the top can cause the inspector to fail you if a buck inspection is required in your particular municipality. And the most importantly, one should always back-bead the flange of the frame with caulking, after dry-fitting the window, for that additional water barrier. Also, if you are permitting, which you should, you have to wait until after inspection to put the beauty caps over the installation fasteners because the inspector will want to check to make sure you actually put screws in all the predrilled installation holes and that the tapcons do not spin.
damn that bird was noisy 😂
Question I’m in FL just got my permit and installation from American Craftsman the manufacturer and said TapCon should be 1/4 not 3/16 and 4 TapCon on each side, 3 on Top can you please explain why you used 3/16 and 6 on each side ? 3 on top stay the same as you mentioned
Thanks
1/4" too big. If 1/4" was intended to be used, the holes in the window would be larger.
@@electronicsNmore i was pretending to use 3/16 like you did but American Craftsman same windows you installed saying on the paper provided to me I should use 1/4 I’m scared look’s ugly but same time scared don’t pass inspection because city go by the manufacturer and doing it myself and placement of TapCon saying 6 inches from corners top and lower and from middle 3 inches up and another 3 inches down and 3 on top like 12 on total do you pass inspection like you did it ? I’m sorry to be asking that much if was my option I would do it like you
Thanks for your fast reply and your time
You need to read the FBC product approval or Miami-Dade NOA for the window brand and window type to determine which diameter tapcon is required.
@@tprummel Yes, I did that. It clearly states 3/16" flat head tapcon with min 1.25" embedment. I have no idea why people think a 1/4" tapcon would be used. Not only is it an overkill, but all you have to do is look at the diameter of the holes drilled in the window frame. Small hole = 3/16" anchor. I'm not in Miami/Dade.
Hi where do you buy the hole clip cover ? And what diameter do you house for the hole to install it ? Thanks
The windows usually have the holes in them from purchase. Otherwise just use a small spade bit or boring bit thats as close to the screw head size as possible. The plugs he used also come with the window. If not you can make some if you have a small piece of vinyl board used for baseboard etc. But it wont look quite as clean
@@---ny4ysthanks for taking your time to answer but sadly my window doesn’t come with the holes and plugs 😢 but thank for the tips anyway Happy New Year
@@xElchulo305x no worries, yep at that point you can cut them in with a small spade bit on the drill as I was saying. Good luck and happy new year
Anyone know if insurance will take issue with doing this yourself? Would they want proof of a licensed contractor having done the work to give you insurance discounts?
100% irrelevant. All that matters is that you get a permit
Realistically how much can you save in labor cost by DIY ?
Pull your own permit
Best deals on an order direct from mfgr ??
Dade County rated
I saved about 15,000, they're ripping everybody off installing these windows. They also would not have done the same quality job that I did, and my house would have been full of dust
I recently got a quote of 22k for 7 windows, I priced out the same windows for 3,800.
@@joeoil4198They're all a bunch of criminals
Not enuf Info.what do you use for attachment ? Placement of screws etc. Trash.
The only thing that's trash are viewers like you that think they're entitled to this information. If you actually watched the video, you would have more than enough information.
Are you sure this installation meets FBC? I don't think so, I can assure, you wouldn't pass any in the state building departments inspections requirements; if this window unit has an approved NOA from the state of Florida, as is required, none of the procedures used here would meet it , just for starters, where is the sealing step, e.g. exterior grade caulking application under the window bucks and concrete opening, to keep wind driven rain out of your house, and the buck anchoring used here is pathetic to say the least, please don't follow these instructions and if you do, you will be made to remove and properly reinstall every unit; of course providing you're working under a permit as is required by insurance companies and the state?
Fully inspected, and fully sealed using polyurethane sealant around the entire exterior perimeter. Water is not going to find its way into the wall if you seal it properly on the outside using quality sealant. As for the bucks, there's nothing wrong with using the tapcons I used, at least 1 1/4" penetration into the concret block. Done being a pedant? My installation will be here long after you're gone.
christ almighty could you have possibly added anymore commercials SMFH
Don't be an entitled freeloader. Based on the length of the video, the number of ads aren't excessive.
@@electronicsNmore 10 plus ads is absurd; considering the content. hows bout you remove all but 1 and hope folks dont jump ship.😁
@@fredjohnson4772 how about pay for youtube premium and you get 0
@@electronicsNmore This video alone is going to save me more than my annual cost of UA-cam Premium - thank you! I am glad to see you are getting AdSense revenue for this exceptionally great video!