After watching this I'm even more happy I ditched the $300+ plastic, wing-shaped, flared, skewed, swept, etc. thing that came on my new gravel bike for a $30 aluminum drop bar in a totally normal shape. Couldn't be happier!
Hello Jordan, would it not be logical to get an aero carbon bars with no holes ... It seems to me that the 2 or 4 or 6 holes on some bars weakens the structure.... The more cable holes the greater the chance of breakage? Do no cable hole aero bars exist ? What brand? I spent 8 hours on the net and the products rarely indicates how many holes or where ....
This guy is a goldmine of information! I love the idea of carbon components, but after seeing this, I'm not going anywhere near carbon parts. Much better to concentrate on losing a few pounds in weight by cutting out eating crap!
I have broken 2 race face next carbon handlebars in my first years of riding and my last nukeproof horizon carbon bar is like new after 5 years of heavy riding.
I think if you hear any creaking in any carbon bike component then it needs to go. Regardless of how expensive that part is you're worth more than it ever is.
Yeah, i have carbon bars on my road bike and no issues so far. I think the just require a little more attention. Interesting you have them on your mountain bike as well 👌🏼 I bet they take a battering?
@@JourdainColeman Last MTB ride was coming down Beinn Ime. no issues at all with the bars - one up 35mm. had carbon bars for years now. take less battering that the road bike does due to the suspension I recon. On the road bike I take my weight off the bars on any rough bits of road.
I have carbon Bontrager road bike directions to thousand 13 on my project on trek madone. No crashes , I don’t race , but ride fast with fast groups for years off an on . Solid bars I weigh 165 pounds. I also have some flat carbon Niner branded MTB bars on my Xc bike . I don’t race it , and no crashes to pretty solid handlebar. So far some of these name brands pretty good no issues here .
Awhile back, I over torqued a stem bolt and cracked some carbon handlebars in the center. Before I tossed them, I tried to see how hard it would be to break them along the drops and it was near impossible.
I managed years ago to break my aluminium bar. Thankfully i could stay up right and even continue cycling with the other half of the bars. Braking was kinda odd. Got home safe. Just in case you think alu is safe and carbon isn’t. Stay safe, take care of your equipment, check when cleaning the bike, look for weird spots or small cracks etc. check after crashes/ falling
One word: Titanium. More words: I chose titainium for that exact reason. I never trusted alu, as I did bike trials (as in jumping around) and had one crack (not break entirely). Since then I purchased steel, and now with my latest bike, I decided to go all in and buy a custom titanium version of my preferred geometry. Titanium, unlike alu, doesn't mind flexing. Alu, if flexing will be fatigued instantly. Alu corrodes when robbed of air. Carbon: Hidden cracks and delamination. Neither a problem with my titanium version. That said, the holster and the foot itself on my prosthetic leg is carbon fiber, and the hardware and tubing on it is Ti.
But carbon splinters when it breaks. You may get a cut from aluminium sharp edges but splinters from carbon no thanks! Alloy can also Corrode over time and fail.
Nice content sir. What I have learned is. 1. I will choose carbon fiber parts over alluminum only if you want stiffer feeling and very slightly lighter weight. 2. Alluminum is safer for parts that are being clamped or where too much pressure being is applied on constantly. 3. I will choose carbon fiber since it looks better on bikes.😅 Just my own opinion though.✌
I have been riding for 37 years and have only broken alloy bars, first a set of drop bars in the early 90s which was my fault as I drilled my Cinelli bars for internal cables. The second was a tribar ...Deda Aeroblue, where the stem completely failed during a timetrial completely detaching from the bike whilst on the tribars...that did hurt. Nothing is 100%, and the internet is a great amplifier of scare stories.
A bit unnerving seeing s few pro riders losing their bars. I've had round conventional carbon bars and semi aero baro by 3T on bike for some time and no issues. I think tbh the main concern is if you drop the bike you really don't know how damaged the bars might be.
Looked at some carbon bars. The stories out there about their failure are scary. I went and got some aluminum compact handlebars and sent the carbon bars back. More proof from Rob.
Think I'll just stick with alloy, carbon seems such a faff for the weight savings...This fella you have on is a wealth of knowledge, always learn something.... (I was going to get a pair of rigid 29er carbon forks from Ali Express for my Rockhopper, but wised up and bought some new RS Judy's instead...heavy AF but at least I can trust them)
It's more about ergonomics and comfort of aero bars, and not so much about weight. For me it's not weight but the flat top of the bar to get rid of the numb hands. I always got numb hands on the round bar, but as soon as I got the aero bar that are flat, numbness was gone. Very nice!
@@EYEupPyou need to improve your bike fit. The flat part is there for aero gains, not really for riding. You should be most comfortable on the hoods with a proper fit :)
@@darvd29 I never even touch the tops (the flat part), but the bar itself is just a different shape and right next to the hoods, where the base of my palm is, is a little bit flatter (not flat) and not entirely round, so the point of pressure on the palm is not so small. It just is more comfy. It also changes the bike fit a little bit as it is a bit different, I guess.
@@darvd29 The flat top may save a "6seconds over an hour at 50kmh" but primarily it's for ergonomics. A carbon flat top section and hood transition distribute weight on palms far better than even the flattest sections that Alu can offer.
Nice one - the stress risers on those Specialized aero drop bars were insane: the cable hole and the aero/drop transition are unforgivable. No wonder they broke there. Unless you're at the sharp end of racing and need the aero or hill climb ultra-light, there's just no need. They save no significant weight, they're silly expensive and they fail suddenly. Straight mountain bars aren't too bad because they can be made in one, but they're still vulnerable at clamp areas and from crashing.
I know a lot of these videos are focused on road bikes, it would it be possible to do some vids on mtb frames and parts? I’d love so see analysis of Chinese carbon frames, or carbon bars etc.
It would be interesting to do mountain bikes 🤔 I've done a few frames already, the videos are on my channel like this one - ua-cam.com/video/MCIijGTxFxA/v-deo.html 👍🏽
I bought a Toseek Aero Carbon Drop bar for $35 couple years ago. I didn't wanted to spend over $100 to find out I didn't like them. I have seen and heard many of them failing, but mine are still going strong. I love them, but if they fail I am switching back to aluminum.
Same with seat posts, I had a very expensive Darimo Seat post disintegrate recently near the clamp, torque was below recommended as was paranoid! Contacted Darimo and had absolutely no interest in what had happened or investigating! Would never buy one of there products again.
And in my case: The cargo platform and the steerer arm. I guess I could also add fenders/mudguards. Fits well with my Ti Omnium Cargo. Seatpost is alu, as is the stem (Both strong Thomsons) not the lightest but plenty light enough and super stiff (you don't want alu flexing
I had a carbon stem on my last gravel bike. I took it off to set it up to sell it. I spoted a crack in a top layer of carbon. It looked like it was possibly more cosmetic than structural as it seemed to be an additional layer added to the stem. Or, maybe it never bonded properly? It was a "premium" brand and not a cheap stem. I was wondering how long I've been riding it like that.
Carbon bars are wonderful, until they aren’t. I’ve broken three or four bars, none catastrophically thankfully. Most of my bikes now run alloy bars from good manufacturers like Easton or Crank Brothers.
Where is the carbon repair business located? I have a specialized S works transition that has a hairline cracked in it. No one in Athens, Georgia knows how to fix such a thing which I find crazy to believe but whatever. Where is this carbon repair company located please?
When the bars are made there is a plastic bladder inside the is expanded (like a balloon) to press against the carbon from the inside. So I'm not sure this will be possible
@@JourdainColeman i can understand its more expensive with honeycomb, but if you use the honeycomb as a groundshape to mold the carbon around. It should be possible to make holes for the cables inside to. In the flightindustry they use honeycombcarbon with very advanced shapes. Or am i wrong?
I’ll only ride with aluminium bars & stem & aluminium carbon fork, there’s a place for carbon & it isn’t the steerer tube , people buy 80mm dead to go in carbon stem so it just as well be aluminium.
Carbon forks with aluminium steerers are more likely to break than all-carbon forks. The weak spot is where the cabon meets the metal because they have to be glued together. A quality carbon fork is made from fibers running in one piece from the dopout to the end of the fork shaft. What you still have to do is to clamp your stem with proper torque.
@@einundsiebenziger5488 I’ve always dropped my forks every three months just to examine them, never had any issues with aluminium carbon joints, it’s always worth checking though 👍
Carbon is a lot stronger than people think. My wife got hit side-on by a range rover, knocked across three lanes of a roundabout and the Ali-express carbon bars held their shape. Damaged for sure, but they still feel strong (we obviously don't use them!). Her Eddy Merckx Frame was scanned and was fine, sadly.
Sorry to hear about the accident. I hope no one was seriously injured. As for the bars and carbon in general, I'm learning just how strong they are by doing these videos 👌🏼
"not a big difference in alloy / carbon bars and if there is I would probably not want to use them". Well that's not true, now is it? There is a reason you can buy cheap Chinese 70 pound bars made of t700 carbon. And why a Pro vibe superlight T1100, Darimo or Schmolke bar costs +400 because they are using high end lightweight material that you will not find in any other bars... My (one of the first in Europe) Pro Vibe Superlight T1100 at 152 gram is still going strong and I am heavy at 83kg! And yes, it is paper thin, measured to 1mm thick in the drops. But I don't believe Pro (Shimano) would release a dangerous product considering the size and integrity of the brand
@@mpgunawan oh wow, I missed that one! But it's the old stem and only pre 2020 may is concerned, which is scary they escalate a recall 3 yrs later... But would you had bought it from aliexpress you would never know if there was such a concern. I am not bashing Chinese products, I have bought plenty from Alie, most recently a frame. Great success with cheap Uno stem. But handlebars I rather pay 4-500 for something better
"But I don't believe Pro (Shimano) would release a dangerous product considering the size and integrity of the brand"- tell that to the hundreds of owners of the Shimano Ultegra/Dura Ace cranks that have delaminated and spectacularly failed...Shimano's dirty little secret that's still hushed up by the complicit usual suspects in bike media- only Bike Radar ever mentioned it (once)and said it was "rare" lol
83 kg isn't a heavy weight limit for carbon parts, 90 and above is. Since you're light enough for production Darimo carbon parts (ie. no extra reinforcement, which is needed for riders 90 kg and heavier), I doubt PRO's carbon handlebars can't take your weight.
I once snapped an alloy Cinelli bar. Of course, this was after I had crashed on it 5 or 6 times. I was lucky in that it snapped while I was stopped at an intersection when I was resting my forearms on the bars. The right side just came off. I had to ride back 5 miles holding that part of the bar out of the front wheel. I wouldn't trust any carbon bar, even after one crash.
@@JourdainColeman This was decades ago , back when Cinelli's were 26.4, and the 1A stems were quill. I was in a group training ride, and had just finished a sprint before we had to wait at an intersection for traffic. The cycling gods were with me that day.
Your mate is gonna suffer from lung cancer if he handles carbon like that every day. No mask or breathing aid. Just look at all carbon deposits is flung about when he is cutting it. Good video though. Stay safe :)
Aside from being broke af, I don't think I'll ever get into carbon fibre bike parts, because these things cost way too much money for something that needs to be thrown away once there's a crack. Edit: typo
Some carbon parts can be replaced when cracked. Happened to my frame, was repaired professionally - all good. Most aluminium parts indeed need to be thrown away when cracked.
Titanium will. Steel frame, not so much, unless you take really good care of it. Remember to check those alloy bars as they will corrode under the bar tape (the alu can't form a protective layer as that requires oxygen. I'm afraid you have been told a lie on both counts. Unless, of course, you're 80, and will pass on within a few years. 😁
Actually carbon is carbon. And there is enough material in the internet showing that it is simple not worth it to go carbon on bars if you are not racing.
@@tommyfreckmann6857 I'm better off going a few gramms heavier than having a minimal chance of bar snapping during a sprint. Sorry, for me, it is not worth it.
Checkout this video next where Rob talks in depth about carbon frames - ua-cam.com/video/CXIpU92mTwI/v-deo.html
After watching this I'm even more happy I ditched the $300+ plastic, wing-shaped, flared, skewed, swept, etc. thing that came on my new gravel bike for a $30 aluminum drop bar in a totally normal shape. Couldn't be happier!
i've snapped a 20yr old alumunium Cinelli drop bar...and I recently had a 35 yr old steel frame snap the downtube...nothing lasts forever people.
Diamonds.
@@tommyfreckmann6857 damn, forgot about them...
You must have had some good use out of them... 20 years for a set of bars is good going!!
@@JourdainColeman my fault i reckon, overclampng the brake levers is not just a bad idea on carbon!
aluminium*. And you still separate sentences with single fullstops only.*
Thank you for all these videos about carbon and how it's made, how it works and all that. Really insightful and lots of knowledge there. Thank you!
Glad to help!
Hello Jordan, would it not be logical to get an aero carbon bars with no holes ... It seems to me that the 2 or 4 or 6 holes on some bars weakens the structure.... The more cable holes the greater the chance of breakage? Do no cable hole aero bars exist ? What brand? I spent 8 hours on the net and the products rarely indicates how many holes or where ....
This guy is a goldmine of information! I love the idea of carbon components, but after seeing this, I'm not going anywhere near carbon parts. Much better to concentrate on losing a few pounds in weight by cutting out eating crap!
I have broken 2 race face next carbon handlebars in my first years of riding and my last nukeproof horizon carbon bar is like new after 5 years of heavy riding.
I think if you hear any creaking in any carbon bike component then it needs to go. Regardless of how expensive that part is you're worth more than it ever is.
Not according to my wife.
@@davekashuba4730 ha ha ha!!
😂😂
Like in submarines?
@@huckfin1598 They actually heard the Titan snapping loudly on first trials...😢
some bars are too light, people tighten them too much. Got carbon bars on my mountain bike and road bike. no issues.
I fear those who are really heavy, yet still stubbornly want über lightweight carbon parts.
Yeah, i have carbon bars on my road bike and no issues so far. I think the just require a little more attention. Interesting you have them on your mountain bike as well 👌🏼 I bet they take a battering?
@@JourdainColeman Last MTB ride was coming down Beinn Ime. no issues at all with the bars - one up 35mm. had carbon bars for years now. take less battering that the road bike does due to the suspension I recon. On the road bike I take my weight off the bars on any rough bits of road.
I have carbon Bontrager road bike directions to thousand 13 on my project on trek madone. No crashes , I don’t race , but ride fast with fast groups for years off an on . Solid bars I weigh 165 pounds. I also have some flat carbon Niner branded MTB bars on my Xc bike . I don’t race it , and no crashes to pretty solid handlebar. So far some of these name brands pretty good no issues here .
Awhile back, I over torqued a stem bolt and cracked some carbon handlebars in the center. Before I tossed them, I tried to see how hard it would be to break them along the drops and it was near impossible.
I managed years ago to break my aluminium bar. Thankfully i could stay up right and even continue cycling with the other half of the bars. Braking was kinda odd. Got home safe.
Just in case you think alu is safe and carbon isn’t.
Stay safe, take care of your equipment, check when cleaning the bike, look for weird spots or small cracks etc. check after crashes/ falling
One word: Titanium.
More words: I chose titainium for that exact reason. I never trusted alu, as I did bike trials (as in jumping around) and had one crack (not break entirely). Since then I purchased steel, and now with my latest bike, I decided to go all in and buy a custom titanium version of my preferred geometry. Titanium, unlike alu, doesn't mind flexing. Alu, if flexing will be fatigued instantly. Alu corrodes when robbed of air. Carbon: Hidden cracks and delamination. Neither a problem with my titanium version.
That said, the holster and the foot itself on my prosthetic leg is carbon fiber, and the hardware and tubing on it is Ti.
i broke stainless steel at the joint of the corner bar. corroding seen.
But carbon splinters when it breaks. You may get a cut from aluminium sharp edges but splinters from carbon no thanks! Alloy can also Corrode over time and fail.
Talk about the Lauf smoothie handle bar please. It mixes carbon with flexible fiber glass sections. AND it has a 7 YEAR warranty.
Nice content sir. What I have learned is.
1. I will choose carbon fiber parts over alluminum only if you want stiffer feeling and very slightly lighter weight.
2. Alluminum is safer for parts that are being clamped or where too much pressure being is applied on constantly.
3. I will choose carbon fiber since it looks better on bikes.😅
Just my own opinion though.✌
I have been riding for 37 years and have only broken alloy bars, first a set of drop bars in the early 90s which was my fault as I drilled my Cinelli bars for internal cables. The second was a tribar ...Deda Aeroblue, where the stem completely failed during a timetrial completely detaching from the bike whilst on the tribars...that did hurt. Nothing is 100%, and the internet is a great amplifier of scare stories.
A bit unnerving seeing s few pro riders losing their bars. I've had round conventional carbon bars and semi aero baro by 3T on bike for some time and no issues. I think tbh the main concern is if you drop the bike you really don't know how damaged the bars might be.
Yeah, once the bike is crashed or the bars take an impact they should be inspected as Rob said. 👍🏽
What is the best fiber paste to prevent slip, at stem clamps etc.
They're all the same, just get whatever carbon paste is available.
This is the one I have - amzn.to/4bGHHJ0
Looked at some carbon bars. The stories out there about their failure are scary. I went and got some aluminum compact handlebars and sent the carbon bars back. More proof from Rob.
My carbon handlebars snapped and saved my frame from serious damage but have gone back to alloy bars weight not much in it
Any aluminium handlebar weighing less than 300 g is light enough for me.
Thank you for sharing J. Great video as always.
Glad you enjoyed it my friend!
Thanks Jourdain - an interesting and informative video.
My pleasure!
I've just ordered a Jones H bar in carbon ,but you've got me really worried now ,Should I not use it ?
Another great and interesting video!
Glad you enjoyed it
Excellent video
Think I'll just stick with alloy, carbon seems such a faff for the weight savings...This fella you have on is a wealth of knowledge, always learn something.... (I was going to get a pair of rigid 29er carbon forks from Ali Express for my Rockhopper, but wised up and bought some new RS Judy's instead...heavy AF but at least I can trust them)
Why turn your Rockhopper into a rigid?
It's more about ergonomics and comfort of aero bars, and not so much about weight. For me it's not weight but the flat top of the bar to get rid of the numb hands. I always got numb hands on the round bar, but as soon as I got the aero bar that are flat, numbness was gone. Very nice!
@@EYEupPyou need to improve your bike fit. The flat part is there for aero gains, not really for riding. You should be most comfortable on the hoods with a proper fit :)
@@darvd29 I never even touch the tops (the flat part), but the bar itself is just a different shape and right next to the hoods, where the base of my palm is, is a little bit flatter (not flat) and not entirely round, so the point of pressure on the palm is not so small. It just is more comfy. It also changes the bike fit a little bit as it is a bit different, I guess.
@@darvd29
The flat top may save a "6seconds over an hour at 50kmh" but primarily it's for ergonomics.
A carbon flat top section and hood transition distribute weight on palms far better than even the flattest sections that Alu can offer.
Nice one - the stress risers on those Specialized aero drop bars were insane: the cable hole and the aero/drop transition are unforgivable. No wonder they broke there. Unless you're at the sharp end of racing and need the aero or hill climb ultra-light, there's just no need. They save no significant weight, they're silly expensive and they fail suddenly. Straight mountain bars aren't too bad because they can be made in one, but they're still vulnerable at clamp areas and from crashing.
I had a Carbon bar fail on me years ago. Luckily without getting hurt. I've ridden only aluminium bars since then without a regret.
I know a lot of these videos are focused on road bikes, it would it be possible to do some vids on mtb frames and parts?
I’d love so see analysis of Chinese carbon frames, or carbon bars etc.
It would be interesting to do mountain bikes 🤔 I've done a few frames already, the videos are on my channel like this one - ua-cam.com/video/MCIijGTxFxA/v-deo.html 👍🏽
I bought a Toseek Aero Carbon Drop bar for $35 couple years ago. I didn't wanted to spend over $100 to find out I didn't like them. I have seen and heard many of them failing, but mine are still going strong. I love them, but if they fail I am switching back to aluminum.
your comment is exactly my case and the reason why i am doing this research. thank you so much.
Same with seat posts, I had a very expensive Darimo Seat post disintegrate recently near the clamp, torque was below recommended as was paranoid! Contacted Darimo and had absolutely no interest in what had happened or investigating! Would never buy one of there products again.
Carbon fibre has one place on a bike in my old school opinion is a headset spacer. thats it.
And in my case: The cargo platform and the steerer arm. I guess I could also add fenders/mudguards. Fits well with my Ti Omnium Cargo.
Seatpost is alu, as is the stem (Both strong Thomsons) not the lightest but plenty light enough and super stiff (you don't want alu flexing
Just wait until you learn what most aircraft are now made of!!
I had a carbon stem on my last gravel bike. I took it off to set it up to sell it. I spoted a crack in a top layer of carbon. It looked like it was possibly more cosmetic than structural as it seemed to be an additional layer added to the stem. Or, maybe it never bonded properly? It was a "premium" brand and not a cheap stem. I was wondering how long I've been riding it like that.
What stem is this?
@@sbccbc7471 It was a Ritchey.
@@DaveCMCould it be by any chance a WCS Carbon Matrix C220 84D?
@yonglingng5640 I don't remember the exact model. I threw it away. It was had Carbon Matrix on it. Did you have problems with the same stem too?
@@DaveCM Sounds like yours is a mix of carbon and aluminium.
Carbon bars are wonderful, until they aren’t. I’ve broken three or four bars, none catastrophically thankfully. Most of my bikes now run alloy bars from good manufacturers like Easton or Crank Brothers.
How were they broken? Crash or on a casual Sunday stroll?
Where is the carbon repair business located? I have a specialized S works transition that has a hairline cracked in it. No one in Athens, Georgia knows how to fix such a thing which I find crazy to believe but whatever. Where is this carbon repair company located please?
UK bro
... a hairline crack*
I Wonder then if its not better to incl a honeycomb inside?
It'd increase weight and would make internal routing impossible (not a problem for regular-shaped drop bars).
When the bars are made there is a plastic bladder inside the is expanded (like a balloon) to press against the carbon from the inside. So I'm not sure this will be possible
@@JourdainColeman i can understand its more expensive with honeycomb, but if you use the honeycomb as a groundshape to mold the carbon around. It should be possible to make holes for the cables inside to. In the flightindustry they use honeycombcarbon with very advanced shapes. Or am i wrong?
@@gurkpojken That sounds reasonable to me. But I wonder how easy it is to mass produce them. You also have the issue of cable routing as well 🤔
@@JourdainColeman the mass produced thing is the problem ofcourse.
The alu-honeycomb can be pre-milled with a track for the cablehousing.
Ok, but what does he think about using carbon fiber for submarine applications?
I’ll only ride with aluminium bars & stem & aluminium carbon fork, there’s a place for carbon & it isn’t the steerer tube , people buy 80mm dead to go in carbon stem so it just as well be aluminium.
Carbon forks with aluminium steerers are more likely to break than all-carbon forks. The weak spot is where the cabon meets the metal because they have to be glued together. A quality carbon fork is made from fibers running in one piece from the dopout to the end of the fork shaft. What you still have to do is to clamp your stem with proper torque.
@@einundsiebenziger5488 I’ve always dropped my forks every three months just to examine them, never had any issues with aluminium carbon joints, it’s always worth checking though 👍
That dust is very dangerous....😮
I've snapped one, but it was on me - I used too much force on them
Hopefully no injuries!!
@@JourdainColeman luckily no, I was going slow and lifted front wheel to get on the curb. And baaam, freehand ride 😂
I’ve had my Easton EC90 since 2006 on my cyfac and they are tough.
My Amazon bar just failed. I paid $150 for it. Thank God I was at a dead stop and was about to ascend a hill and it broke when I stood up.
Wow.. not the best! Good to hear there wasn't an accident though. Did they completely snap?
One does not buy bike parts from Amazon, or any parts for that matter. There are much more honest sources to buy online.
Carbon is a lot stronger than people think. My wife got hit side-on by a range rover, knocked across three lanes of a roundabout and the Ali-express carbon bars held their shape. Damaged for sure, but they still feel strong (we obviously don't use them!). Her Eddy Merckx Frame was scanned and was fine, sadly.
Sorry to hear about the accident. I hope no one was seriously injured. As for the bars and carbon in general, I'm learning just how strong they are by doing these videos 👌🏼
"was fine sadly"? So you don't like the frame, huh?
It's called a stress riser.
"not a big difference in alloy / carbon bars and if there is I would probably not want to use them". Well that's not true, now is it? There is a reason you can buy cheap Chinese 70 pound bars made of t700 carbon. And why a Pro vibe superlight T1100, Darimo or Schmolke bar costs +400 because they are using high end lightweight material that you will not find in any other bars... My (one of the first in Europe) Pro Vibe Superlight T1100 at 152 gram is still going strong and I am heavy at 83kg! And yes, it is paper thin, measured to 1mm thick in the drops. But I don't believe Pro (Shimano) would release a dangerous product considering the size and integrity of the brand
Recently, there is a recall for Pro Vibe stem
@@mpgunawan oh wow, I missed that one! But it's the old stem and only pre 2020 may is concerned, which is scary they escalate a recall 3 yrs later... But would you had bought it from aliexpress you would never know if there was such a concern. I am not bashing Chinese products, I have bought plenty from Alie, most recently a frame. Great success with cheap Uno stem. But handlebars I rather pay 4-500 for something better
"But I don't believe Pro (Shimano) would release a dangerous product considering the size and integrity of the brand"- tell that to the hundreds of owners of the Shimano Ultegra/Dura Ace cranks that have delaminated and spectacularly failed...Shimano's dirty little secret that's still hushed up by the complicit usual suspects in bike media- only Bike Radar ever mentioned it (once)and said it was "rare" lol
Julian alaphilippe is using a Shimano pro vibe alloy bar not the carbon option that his team mates ride on.
83 kg isn't a heavy weight limit for carbon parts, 90 and above is. Since you're light enough for production Darimo carbon parts (ie. no extra reinforcement, which is needed for riders 90 kg and heavier), I doubt PRO's carbon handlebars can't take your weight.
This video came after I ordered carbon handlebars. Now I am a bit scared
I wouldn't be scared, just make sure to check them if you have a crash etc 👍🏽
Questions that don't let me sleep at night: why did the "Six million dollar man" end up repairing carbon bars...
🤔😅😂
Feels like U have to get an all titanium bike....😅
Well, they last for ages, which is a huge plus compared to carbon frames
Sounds like I don't even want premium carbon bars - seem pretty prone to failure.
I once snapped an alloy Cinelli bar. Of course, this was after I had crashed on it 5 or 6 times. I was lucky in that it snapped while I was stopped at an intersection when I was resting my forearms on the bars. The right side just came off. I had to ride back 5 miles holding that part of the bar out of the front wheel.
I wouldn't trust any carbon bar, even after one crash.
Yeah, I think after one crash they should be properly inspected 👍🏽 Good to hear it snapped when you were stationary.
@@JourdainColeman This was decades ago , back when Cinelli's were 26.4, and the 1A stems were quill. I was in a group training ride, and had just finished a sprint before we had to wait at an intersection for traffic.
The cycling gods were with me that day.
and this is Specialized bars, OMG and you pay extra for it
055 Glover Wells
Your mate is gonna suffer from lung cancer if he handles carbon like that every day. No mask or breathing aid. Just look at all carbon deposits is flung about when he is cutting it.
Good video though. Stay safe :)
Aside from being broke af,
I don't think I'll ever get into carbon fibre bike parts,
because these things cost way too much money for something that needs to be thrown away once there's a crack.
Edit: typo
Some carbon parts can be replaced when cracked. Happened to my frame, was repaired professionally - all good. Most aluminium parts indeed need to be thrown away when cracked.
I've ridden carbon drop bars on multiple bikes for more than 10 years. Never had any kind of issue.
It just isnt worth the risk for non racers. Ive been riding road and mtb decades with 0 carbon components and am doing fine comfort and time wise.
Call me stubborn but i want a chromoly frame and alloy bars coz im pretty sure it would very likely OUTLIVE me
Titanium will. Steel frame, not so much, unless you take really good care of it. Remember to check those alloy bars as they will corrode under the bar tape (the alu can't form a protective layer as that requires oxygen.
I'm afraid you have been told a lie on both counts. Unless, of course, you're 80, and will pass on within a few years. 😁
Alloy is a lot stronger
Mtb carbon bars are round
you guys wore mask when cutting carbon fiber?
Most Pro's use aluminium bars. When I say Pro, I mean those paid to ride, not leisure cyclists :)
Actually that's not the case in 2023 as most pros are on carbon bars. Alaphilippe has alloy pro bars but the rest of the team rude carbon bars
It's not the case anymore because everyone rides integrated bars and stem combos.
Where were you? 😅
Most pros* (plural, no apostrophe)
You get what you pay for. Buy cheap and you get cheap.
Actually carbon is carbon. And there is enough material in the internet showing that it is simple not worth it to go carbon on bars if you are not racing.
@rand_kk not true.
@@rand_kk My Deda Alanera bars on my Colnago V2r are just fine after more than 10k riding.
@@tommyfreckmann6857 I'm better off going a few gramms heavier than having a minimal chance of bar snapping during a sprint. Sorry, for me, it is not worth it.
I dont think so.. the aero bar in the video aint cheap but still broke.
Carbon Fiber is strong but brittle. Way too costly in price and possible failure. I'll pass
Fantastic video