I really enjoy your interviews with Dr Bruce, I've been growing for 10 yrs or so and learned most of what I know by making mistakes from bro science, now my grows are are solid but I still watch your vids to keep up with new science THANK YOU for what you do
Don't completely discount bro science and learning from your mistakes. My most favorite bro science guy was from my hometown in Brantford Canada. He was a deaf/speech teacher named Alexander Graham Bell who invented the telephone. There are some New Yorkers who claim he got the idea from an Italian immigrant who had a working phone in his home and was visited by Bell but it's never been fully proven. Bro science is great especially when people like Dr. Bruce share the real science so we have knowledge to work with. I created a huge pest infestation a little bit by accident in my outdoor grow shed with my first crack at RWDC and it was a ton of fun learning all the different and even experimental ways to kill them.
I'm sold on intra canopy lighting after running it recently. The overall quality went up, and so did the yield. The upper canopy was getting 700-900ppfd of a red leaning light with far red. The under canopy was getting up to 200ppfd of a blue leaning light. The lights under the canopy stayed on the full 12 hours a day from day 21F onward.
@concreter6832 no there not, i used the Mars Hydro VG80 bars under the canopy at pot hieght. They are a visibly blue light but full spectrum. Above the canopy I use mars hydro TSL2000'S. Which are visibly orange with plenty of red and far red.
In a 2x2 or 3x3 space, it is not about economics always. Its entertainment. Second comment is. Why don't you hook a dimmer up to a C02 meter and select a preset over canopy height based on approx DLI levels relative to current C02 supply? Then it can self adjust to be even more economical for the other half.
So wait to give red +far red till done stretching then I can put them asleep and wake plants up with red +far red during flower I think I reading this right.😮?!
@@keithgustafson7786 ya u can I mean I use reds in veg now I do crypto chrome signaling for sunrise and then run Emerson for the rest of the day staying below 10%overrall ppfd of 660nm so plants don't bleach...been doing end of day reds for years now even run it in veg too
I just aquired one of your PAR meters and it makes it soooo much easier to adjust light intensity and height above the crops. It eliminates the math errors w lesser meters that must be converted. Thank you Doc, one of if not my most important tools.
Humboldt Seed Company are working with Triploids, Shane. I'm not sure if they're publicly available, but I've seen video of the plants, and they explain how they do the work. Very interesting work they're doing!👍💯✌️
I love Bruce he is such a kind human being with amazing amounts of knowledge and understanding. I dont think people realize how important and necessary these DLI sensors will be. As the world increases in temperature, the ability to grow gardens in backyards and random locations with limited amouts of sun will become more accessible; these sensors would be able to lyk how many people are able to grow their own food in their locations. Even people who live in apartment buildings who use windows to grow during certain parts of the year will also know how much extra supplemental lighting to give to their plants, food and herbs!
I love it when Dr Bruce spills the beans and this round was an absolute food fight. 🥰 Thanks Shane, Thanks Dr Bruce, your work is very much appreciated.
For males I saw that picture of CO2 systems and it's the blues lets get serious this is a complete different strain from actual flower.. I've seen raspberry bushes grow both blackberry too.. plants ate uncanny and can share similar characteristics
I was just thinking about you today when i was thinking about what id love to do in life! And then i hop on here and immediately see you and a new video! Love it! Thanks for all your info and work! 👊🏻🤘🏻
Great episode. Oregon CBD has triploid cannabis breeding dialed in. They released their 1st triploids in 2021 I believe.. Now they have released triploids for Type 1 cannabis as well. They hired an experienced PhD to do the work.
On this topic, where myths and pseudo-science from armchair experts abound, it's always a privilage to listen to reliable, evidence based scientific fact. Your channel and of couse Bruce, always deliver. Thanks!
I always had issues with nutrient deficiency. After listening to a podcast with bruce where he said he pushes EC to 6+ during first 3 weeks of flower with elevated Co2. I pushed EC to 3 for first 3 weeks and there is almost no deficiencies. Bruce is a hero
yea my best grows are fall to winter in Arizona. starting them when its still warm and then finishing during december or january is the best grow season for me (indoor). inside the house it gets to the low 60's for flower which is great for the anthrocyanin production.
In soil with only organic inputs I've found that anything over 800 in veg causes leaves to turn, and actually stresses the plants. Good info in general, but also important to keep in mind they are referencing very specific grow methods.
Cause you need to start it outside in shade... then let it veg under blue light before subjecting it to shps for 6 hours then this other warm unit to produce the light for 12 hours.... and that's for 5 days before reducing its intensity to lower spectrum also train them so they don't shoot up... let it hang out and grow slow they even have your friend... I use everything to create a bushy plant that will last me years. I'm constantly changing spectrums, using emzyme spray to feed, some nutrient barely any water they haven't been stressed at all only from going outside to inside with some water and nutrients, oh yeah in league of legends
A lot of people are not talking about VPD (perfecting temp and humidity per cultivar) enough, but are focusing on uvc and UVB and ppfd/dli.. when those are not as crucial as the VPD chart numbers.
Some advocate for a 6C/10F temp swing between day and night during flower. Is 17C/63F night and a C23/F73 day a reasonable shift or are we better off opting for a smaller shift, perhaps a 2C/4F shift like 18C/64F night and 20C/68F day for example? Dr. Bugbee's emphasis on temp is an eye opener!
I've been Dr Bruce bugsby for a few years now I also been following Dr Harley Smith for a while I think I probably watched all the videos and all the migro. I also noticed call migro always has the latest light measurement technology as far as the parameters new parameters that are always coming out I was just wondering since you don't have to stop all of them I wouldn't mind if you let me have one of the old ones I'd be very grateful I'm just saying I know that's how you always get the newest ones that come out before anybody else does so you got to do something with the old ones are still new to me very expensive how I treated with a lot of respect I can't afford one so I go off of Old School mathematics I don't have that luxury I wish I did do you think I can have one of those old ones you got I'm just joking unless you're really going to let me have one LOL I love the work that you do and I plan to grow old along the side of you why you do your research thanks for the up-to-date info and research I really appreciate it makes a lot of sense with Bruce bugsby how about the temperature variable in the stretch plus the fire Red and on that note with the UVC I tried that one time and I came back a couple days later my plants were starting to have a lot of leaves to burn burning all overthis was days after I use the UVC light and it wasn't even that powerful well the outcome was had a big mess to clean then after find the genetics sorry for the long comment but I would really love one of those parameters the old ones LOL thanks for sharing your researching info can't wait to see you next video
Harley is a great consultant who actually consulted on the grow in my banner... I geeked out and all the farm laughed that I talked about him after for a while... he now got hired in my local state grows commercially.. 😅 A lot of people used to look up to him like a lab grower, much like we do Doctor Bruce 😅
Well I had infestation years ago when my younger days and I thought that my vegetables would be okay I left that thing on for hours lesson learned the hard way
I bought P.E. thrasher spore syringe and knocked up some grain yesterday, along with making up some liquid culture with it. Im using monotubs, have some hygrometer and thermometers consistently monitoring. Ive done a lot of research but its definitely more information than i thought it would be. Very fun, and i figure if i can get any of these going then maybe il be downhill from here! This is my very first time btw so fingers crossed ❤
When you can only grow 1 or 2 plants per year, electric efficiency does not matter. What matter is how can I max the yield and at what point the light is too much etc not when its the most efficient. Great video. was able to deduct a lot of useful information I can put to test.
I think the lettuce shows how different growing in hydro vs living soil is. I run lettuce in my flower room all the time with high DLI and never have any issues at all. It would burn up before when we ran hydro style. But now under 1600w led in a 4x8 and in 2 4x4 living soil beds it grows like crazy 😜
Should I supplement if the ambient CO2 level in my lung room is between 800 and 1200ppm? I still don't know why it's so high in there, but I monitor it constantly and that's where it is, the rest of my house is ~400ppm. Amazing video, I'll be watching more than once.
Nice video @Migro :) What should be the relationship between light/temperature and nutrient's EC ? Should we raise it? lower it because there's more transpiration from the plants? Thank you!
Yup, that’s what I do. I don’t use a dome. I use high intensity light right away for my seedlings but I keep the humidity in about 50% and the temperature is about 26 and they’re loving it.
True. It is not that easy, even if you are here with much experience... the education requirement is pretty expensive and a longer degree study than most growers will ever get or be able to afford at his college(or most colleges)
I produce my Co2 with an Fzone fish tank generator for 100 bucks. I fill it with industrial grade Citric acid powder and bicarb, used by cleaning companies. 10kg of each cost me 65 bucks and last me about 15 weeks. in my 4x4 in a 10 x 7 lung room. at 900 - 1000 ppm. I do have to reload it every couple of days. As I found doubling the quantity didn't double the time I got from it. so reduced to 200g of each. Controlled by the IAQ Monitor Controller with solenoid and lights out cut off function. 140 bucks. I have to set my dehumidifier in the lung room at 10% below the desired tent RH in order to get the balance..
Works but does not last long... most use co2 scuba size tanks, which do not last even a week, buddy... i got paid to pickup co2 tanks before in Denver every weekz heh... many tank refills. a mushroom tent is more efficient and you get product... buildAsoil jeremy proves this (that channel and this one is the top no nonsense for homegrowers to get correct information without the salesman biases)
@@dertythegrower AS This got bumped, I'll add some more details. The point I was making in my OP, was that 2 tubs purchased from amazon arrive by post and last me 15 weeks in my sized tent and lung room for 65 bucks. No going out to fill tanks. As it is now filled in house every few days.. It's worked for me for 4 years. And as I have tweaked the airflow, I have got it Running in a wave of 1100 - 1300ppm in late veg and flower. I run it at 600- 800 in early veg. Adding 3M silicone door tape to all four sides. gave me the seal to run at 1200, and still be economical. Cost was important, As I need to run dehumidifier in flower. But the bunus, is that it bushes the air to the area I want it to, which increases the efficacy of my Co2 circulation. I'm a home grower, so not suggesting this is good for fully automated run. As I do Go in the tent at lights on, to give it a natal boosts. And to tend to the plants and water. Which can raise it up to as much as 2000ppm which takes a couple of hours to drift back top my trigger point of 1100. But it works for me. And I'm actually quite proud of the way it works for the price. One more thing...I recently discovered that the internet recopy of 300 g of citric and the same of bicarb, into 450ml of water, is wrong. the correct formulae is 230g of anhydrous citric acid and 300 bicarb into 500ml of water. Good news as the citric is the more expensive of the two.
There are many growers, who panic about burning the seedling with too much light, that they keep them much too dark in the first three weeks. Then they have leggy seedlings, which need to get help for stability.
Wow a DLI of 100 on a controlled cannabis plant. That's so bright. I can't imagine the lights for that test. Very impressive and great content. 1200ppm co2 at 4000 micromoles per square inch per second, For 12 hours.
My question for budda bugsbie. Do you have anything to speak on concerning an ion exchange that the plant uses. Would using ionized or deionized water have any increase on growth or uptake of nutrients persay ? Made respect for you both thanks
The criteria for water are pretty straight forward: 1. PH must be right. This means 5.5-6.5 for hydro or coco, earth is more tolerant to pH variations because it buffers more, but 6-6.5 is still where it will end up in the soil. "Ionized water" (aka water that was run through an electrolysis process, the term is misleading) fails right there because it raises pH which is usually undesirable. Most tap water is already too alkaline, this just makes it worse. 2. It should contain the correct amounts of calcium and magnesium. Something like 90mg/l calcium, 30mg/l magnesium. 3. The water should not contain chlorine (this can be solved if it does, chlorine evaporates easily), heavy metals or other contaminants, and not too much chloride or sodium. Deionized water is almost completely pure, so you will have to add Ca and Mg back in. Other than that it's fine, you can use it if your tap water is unsuitable for one reason or another.
I use a 2liter bottle with turbo yeast and 2cups sugar for co2 and I change it out every 3-5days. Leaving 3bottles hanging in my grow tent. I could definitely see the plants absorbing the extra co2 because after I didn't add the bottles to the room. You could see scar marks on the plant leaf with a cell phone microscope.
--START WARM AND COOL OFF-- That explains why my best crop (16oz one 600w hps) was achieved in the coldest months and that I blasted the room with freezing temps.
Great show again, thanks Shane and Dr Bugbee! If an autoflower is under 24/0 lighting but still receives a DLI of 60, will the lesser intensity needed have any effect on quality?
It costs 400-600$(USD) for a 60lb C02 tank. Between $30-50$ to fill/refill. 100$ for hardware. You also need to build a sealed room and invest in a designated split AC and commercial Dehumidifier.
What the industry needs is a chart like a phase chart. including feed concentrations, dli, co2 and most importantly temperature(plant vs atmos). there balance and relationship is obviously of utmost importance and i would dream of being a golden ratio for any plant due to finding a plants optimum dli and therefor optimum co2 and feed rates. As my machinist father taught me, it always comes down to speeds n feeds.
thx! i learned a lot and still got so many questions. is there a gentic or strain which is the most effective concerning photosynthetical datas? what about outdoor green fingerprint; input/output? what might be the role of cannabis in a green transformation?
Bruce Bugbee, the cannabis light sage, Says, "A hundred moles? That's quite the high stage! With CO2 pumped, Your buds will be clumped. But your electric bill might cause outrage!"
What is the best practice for CO2 in late flower? Ive heard its best to cut out CO2 and reduce the light intensity for the final 1-2 weeks? It was mentioned that co2 inhibits ripening? currently I flower at 1300 PPFD with 1200 PPM of CO2 (85C at the canopy) but at the end of flower will remove Co2, drop to 900 ppfd and try to get the canopy to 73day and 60night.
I found mycrobal rock dust and frass to be so good i never check anything but leaf health ever since i started it. And DJ Shorts 11 on 13 off on flower cycle does show different phenotype expressions.
Great info! Shane could you please spec bar lights: 1) Phillips greenpower toplighting linear 2.2 2)Fluence VYPR 3p 3) ThinkGrow model-I plus All with dimmers. I appreciate all your efforts bringing technical knowledge to the bro-science knuckle heads. PEOPLES
What I'd like to know, is since cannabis starts super slow at the begining of flowering, should you cut back on lights or light time? so 8 hours of light for the first 2-3 weeks and increase to 12 hours of light for the major part of flowering? lmk.
26:43 Can you please clarify with Dr Bugbee, he said "and don't turn them off you just paid for the expensive lights, don't turn them off." Did he mean you can let them run 24hours for veg to shorten veg? He didn't go into the whole rest period debate and whether plants really need that.
It was meant that u can go up to 1000umol if you can- no need in reducing to 500. Calculation was for 18 hours- it was already almost 65dli and u better not go over that number (u will if u add another 6 hours of light).
He’s not lying i had my hlg 650 pumping 320 watts over 4 plants in veg for 18 hours a day it took them a few days to get used to the extra light but they took off I’ve got TREMENDOUS growth in 2 weeks.(although 1 of those weeks is the 1st week of flower but at around 570 watts now) I was initially only going to use 400 watts at 1st giving 100 watts to each plant should be around 112g but i have a few smaller size plants that i know that i know wont yield that but after a week around 600 watts including 30 watt uv bar I’m expecting over 112g on those bigger plants and around 100g on the 2 smaller plants
Big respect to both you on behalf of everyone on here who watches your great videos
thank you very much
I hate it when a great product is too expensive for me.:)@@MIGROLIGHT
Well said my friend
This guy has raised my game big time! Mad respect..
same here
yup, cleared up many myths and made me understand some fundamentals truely.
Great to hear, makes it worthwhile, thanks for the feedback and best of luck
big ups it's all you mate you wanted to learn more and you seeking it out
2 guys I've spent hours listening to. Great questions for the Doc, well done!
Thank you Shane and Dr Bugbee.
For a more or less beginner grower this man is a treasure trove. I appreciate the hosts reviews of grow lights, thank you both.
Great Video, I always love listening to Dr. Bugbee. 🔥🔥
I have learned so much, in the last few years from both of you. I greatly appreciate any/all information you release. Thank you!
Bruce bugbee is the man
With the knowledge of
The plant.
Not so true my friend, why doesn't he know anything about plant maturity and how to use it
@@DocTableRock Just refraining from talking about specific things since some crowds do not appreciate it.
@@svenvanwier7196 huh, you mean da be stupid.... The cannabis industry is a joke alongside the PhD wannabe
@@svenvanwier7196 still doesn't answer why he doesn't know, I can answer for you
I really like your enthusiasm, great to watch your presentation of those stunning plants 👍☺️
This was such a great watch. Will be coming back to this one numerous times, no doubt. Cheers chaps 👍🏻
I really enjoy your interviews with Dr Bruce, I've been growing for 10 yrs or so and learned most of what I know by making mistakes from bro science, now my grows are are solid but I still watch your vids to keep up with new science THANK YOU for what you do
Don't completely discount bro science and learning from your mistakes. My most favorite bro science guy was from my hometown in Brantford Canada. He was a deaf/speech teacher named Alexander Graham Bell who invented the telephone.
There are some New Yorkers who claim he got the idea from an Italian immigrant who had a working phone in his home and was visited by Bell but it's never been fully proven.
Bro science is great especially when people like Dr. Bruce share the real science so we have knowledge to work with. I created a huge pest infestation a little bit by accident in my outdoor grow shed with my first crack at RWDC and it was a ton of fun learning all the different and even experimental ways to kill them.
I'm sold on intra canopy lighting after running it recently. The overall quality went up, and so did the yield. The upper canopy was getting 700-900ppfd of a red leaning light with far red. The under canopy was getting up to 200ppfd of a blue leaning light. The lights under the canopy stayed on the full 12 hours a day from day 21F onward.
Proven by medicropper about ten years ago, buddy... literally here on video many years ago 😅
Where the under canopy lights uvir bars thanks.
@concreter6832 no there not, i used the Mars Hydro VG80 bars under the canopy at pot hieght. They are a visibly blue light but full spectrum. Above the canopy I use mars hydro TSL2000'S. Which are visibly orange with plenty of red and far red.
Awesome. Been looking forward to seeing what Bruce has learned. I'm going to buy a light just because you got him to talk.
In a 2x2 or 3x3 space, it is not about economics always. Its entertainment.
Second comment is. Why don't you hook a dimmer up to a C02 meter and select a preset over canopy height based on approx DLI levels relative to current C02 supply? Then it can self adjust to be even more economical for the other half.
Thankyou both for taking the time to make this happen been wanting to watch this for weeks!!! Thanks again GROWMIES
So wait to give red +far red till done stretching then I can put them asleep and wake plants up with red +far red during flower I think I reading this right.😮?!
@@keithgustafson7786 ya u can I mean I use reds in veg now I do crypto chrome signaling for sunrise and then run Emerson for the rest of the day staying below 10%overrall ppfd of 660nm so plants don't bleach...been doing end of day reds for years now even run it in veg too
I just aquired one of your PAR meters and it makes it soooo much easier to adjust light intensity and height above the crops. It eliminates the math errors w lesser meters that must be converted.
Thank you Doc, one of if not my most important tools.
The idea that we can speed up veg state is incredible, def want to read more about that.
same here mate 👍
Humboldt Seed Company are working with Triploids, Shane. I'm not sure if they're publicly available, but I've seen video of the plants, and they explain how they do the work. Very interesting work they're doing!👍💯✌️
They are just a smaller pack of 3
I have them they are not new once you top them the extra branch disappears. It is a mutation and I personally would steer clear of them.
Thanks dr. Bruce Bugbee, you are needed in this life 🙏 Great work 👌 and thanks Shane 💯👏🏻
I love Bruce he is such a kind human being with amazing amounts of knowledge and understanding. I dont think people realize how important and necessary these DLI sensors will be. As the world increases in temperature, the ability to grow gardens in backyards and random locations with limited amouts of sun will become more accessible; these sensors would be able to lyk how many people are able to grow their own food in their locations. Even people who live in apartment buildings who use windows to grow during certain parts of the year will also know how much extra supplemental lighting to give to their plants, food and herbs!
Outstanding lecture, one of the most informative I've seen in a long time. Respect.
Not a lecture. It was a commercial couched in bookends of not new information. Disappointed
I love it when Dr Bruce spills the beans and this round was an absolute food fight. 🥰 Thanks Shane, Thanks Dr Bruce, your work is very much appreciated.
“So anyway we started blasting them” 😂😂
@25:13 LMAOOO
this guy is a legend
For males I saw that picture of CO2 systems and it's the blues lets get serious this is a complete different strain from actual flower.. I've seen raspberry bushes grow both blackberry too.. plants ate uncanny and can share similar characteristics
What marvelous knowledge of plant growth and light
This man is a treasure!!! I need to do his course on the university
I WONDER IF HE COULD MAKE A ONLINE CONDENCED VERSION
I was just thinking about you today when i was thinking about what id love to do in life! And then i hop on here and immediately see you and a new video! Love it! Thanks for all your info and work! 👊🏻🤘🏻
Great episode. Oregon CBD has triploid cannabis breeding dialed in. They released their 1st triploids in 2021 I believe.. Now they have released triploids for Type 1 cannabis as well. They hired an experienced PhD to do the work.
Two great minds come together!! I’m locked in on this one!
A light scientist without sun spots just wouldn't be as believable!!!!!!! God bless 🙏
Nascent Iodine takes care of those sun spots Doc.
On this topic, where myths and pseudo-science from armchair experts abound, it's always a privilage to listen to reliable, evidence based scientific fact. Your channel and of couse Bruce, always deliver. Thanks!
Thanks so much for this and all of the other info that you put out into the community! Dr. Bugbee is always great.
I feel Dr. Bugbee is going to change my game too.
This is fantastic information. Thank You
I always had issues with nutrient deficiency. After listening to a podcast with bruce where he said he pushes EC to 6+ during first 3 weeks of flower with elevated Co2. I pushed EC to 3 for first 3 weeks and there is almost no deficiencies. Bruce is a hero
hi, as a biggener i have nutriment deficyency with my plant but i dont speak very well in enlgish, what EC mean ?
@@jdavidblais Electrical Conductivity. It is a way to meassure how much nutrient is in the water
@@christoffer6527is this only used for hydro grows?
@@jdavidblaisadjust ph to 6.2-6.6.
My Main discovery was to Not Change the nutrients for the First two weeks of flowering. I stay on the veg and Switch after two weeks
You guys are Angels...doing the lords work there brothers! Thank you gentlemen! Great as always
I love listening to this guy .
yea my best grows are fall to winter in Arizona. starting them when its still warm and then finishing during december or january is the best grow season for me (indoor). inside the house it gets to the low 60's for flower which is great for the anthrocyanin production.
I agree. Cooler temperatures inside.
Two men whose experience and opinions I trust and respect!
In soil with only organic inputs I've found that anything over 800 in veg causes leaves to turn, and actually stresses the plants. Good info in general, but also important to keep in mind they are referencing very specific grow methods.
So true
Cause you need to start it outside in shade... then let it veg under blue light before subjecting it to shps for 6 hours then this other warm unit to produce the light for 12 hours.... and that's for 5 days before reducing its intensity to lower spectrum also train them so they don't shoot up... let it hang out and grow slow they even have your friend... I use everything to create a bushy plant that will last me years. I'm constantly changing spectrums, using emzyme spray to feed, some nutrient barely any water they haven't been stressed at all only from going outside to inside with some water and nutrients, oh yeah in league of legends
A lot of people are not talking about VPD (perfecting temp and humidity per cultivar) enough, but are focusing on uvc and UVB and ppfd/dli..
when those are not as crucial as the VPD chart numbers.
56:00 🎯👌
Vpd is important
Push it to the limits
Like hey man
Some advocate for a 6C/10F temp swing between day and night during flower. Is 17C/63F night and a C23/F73 day a reasonable shift or are we better off opting for a smaller shift, perhaps a 2C/4F shift like 18C/64F night and 20C/68F day for example? Dr. Bugbee's emphasis on temp is an eye opener!
Bugbee, The Bruce... Legend
Great show guys got a whole lot of info there I definitely have to come rewatch this on to get it more to sink in
Thank you so much for these Eye opening and informative episodes. 🙏
I've been Dr Bruce bugsby for a few years now I also been following Dr Harley Smith for a while I think I probably watched all the videos and all the migro. I also noticed call migro always has the latest light measurement technology as far as the parameters new parameters that are always coming out I was just wondering since you don't have to stop all of them I wouldn't mind if you let me have one of the old ones I'd be very grateful I'm just saying I know that's how you always get the newest ones that come out before anybody else does so you got to do something with the old ones are still new to me very expensive how I treated with a lot of respect I can't afford one so I go off of Old School mathematics I don't have that luxury I wish I did do you think I can have one of those old ones you got I'm just joking unless you're really going to let me have one LOL I love the work that you do and I plan to grow old along the side of you why you do your research thanks for the up-to-date info and research I really appreciate it makes a lot of sense with Bruce bugsby how about the temperature variable in the stretch plus the fire Red and on that note with the UVC I tried that one time and I came back a couple days later my plants were starting to have a lot of leaves to burn burning all overthis was days after I use the UVC light and it wasn't even that powerful well the outcome was had a big mess to clean then after find the genetics sorry for the long comment but I would really love one of those parameters the old ones LOL thanks for sharing your researching info can't wait to see you next video
Harley is a great consultant who actually consulted on the grow in my banner... I geeked out and all the farm laughed that I talked about him after for a while... he now got hired in my local state grows commercially.. 😅 A lot of people used to look up to him like a lab grower, much like we do Doctor Bruce 😅
Bro, you only wave uvc for five seconds per day... proven to get rid of pm
uvc is simply waved over plants, once or twice per day (CleanLightNL or cleanlightusa has the limitation instructions brother)
Well I had infestation years ago when my younger days and I thought that my vegetables would be okay I left that thing on for hours lesson learned the hard way
I bought P.E. thrasher spore syringe and knocked up some grain yesterday, along with making up some liquid culture with it. Im using monotubs, have some hygrometer and thermometers consistently monitoring. Ive done a lot of research but its definitely more information than i thought it would be. Very fun, and i figure if i can get any of these going then maybe il be downhill from here! This is my very first time btw so fingers crossed ❤
Fantastic! content, thanks Guys.
Thank you for great info and video. So basically I can use light mover on plants and it will be enough light ? Thank you.
When you can only grow 1 or 2 plants per year, electric efficiency does not matter. What matter is how can I max the yield and at what point the light is too much etc not when its the most efficient. Great video. was able to deduct a lot of useful information I can put to test.
I think the lettuce shows how different growing in hydro vs living soil is. I run lettuce in my flower room all the time with high DLI and never have any issues at all. It would burn up before when we ran hydro style. But now under 1600w led in a 4x8 and in 2 4x4 living soil beds it grows like crazy 😜
Should I supplement if the ambient CO2 level in my lung room is between 800 and 1200ppm? I still don't know why it's so high in there, but I monitor it constantly and that's where it is, the rest of my house is ~400ppm.
Amazing video, I'll be watching more than once.
Nice video @Migro :) What should be the relationship between light/temperature and nutrient's EC ? Should we raise it? lower it because there's more transpiration from the plants? Thank you!
Yup, that’s what I do. I don’t use a dome. I use high intensity light right away for my seedlings but I keep the humidity in about 50% and the temperature is about 26 and they’re loving it.
I worked in the Cannabis industry for quite a while and agree with about everything this guy has to say.
Thx so much,,,would like to hear the prof on feeding(npk,,ppm)
Finally a dose of fact and science..something that can actually be paid attention too! thank you both very much as always gods within the industry 🔥💯
Thanks for the video. Wish i was in the US to study under Prof Bugbee. Also happy to hear the health look is short term. Kind regards.
True. It is not that easy, even if you are here with much experience... the education requirement is pretty expensive and a longer degree study than most growers will ever get or be able to afford at his college(or most colleges)
@@dertythegrower yeah I didn't really think about the reality of the situation, was more a compliment 😜
You probably can. His course from Utah State University is online. Registration opens sometime this month (March) for the fall class. cost $1495.
A Master at Work
I produce my Co2 with an Fzone fish tank generator for 100 bucks. I fill it with industrial grade Citric acid powder and bicarb, used by cleaning companies. 10kg of each cost me 65 bucks and last me about 15 weeks. in my 4x4 in a 10 x 7 lung room. at 900 - 1000 ppm. I do have to reload it every couple of days. As I found doubling the quantity didn't double the time I got from it. so reduced to 200g of each. Controlled by the IAQ Monitor Controller with solenoid and lights out cut off function. 140 bucks. I have to set my dehumidifier in the lung room at 10% below the desired tent RH in order to get the balance..
Thanks for sharing
Works but does not last long... most use co2 scuba size tanks, which do not last even a week, buddy... i got paid to pickup co2 tanks before in Denver every weekz heh... many tank refills.
a mushroom tent is more efficient and you get product... buildAsoil jeremy proves this (that channel and this one is the top no nonsense for homegrowers to get correct information without the salesman biases)
@@dertythegroweryou started 16 years ago but no grow videos? Why are you commenting with no evidence to talk? Everyone grows differently play boi
Youch! Why so offended . I took it that he was just mentioning about how expensive co2 can be.
@@dertythegrower AS This got bumped, I'll add some more details. The point I was making in my OP, was that 2 tubs purchased from amazon arrive by post and last me 15 weeks in my sized tent and lung room for 65 bucks. No going out to fill tanks. As it is now filled in house every few days..
It's worked for me for 4 years. And as I have tweaked the airflow, I have got it Running in a wave of 1100 - 1300ppm in late veg and flower. I run it at 600- 800 in early veg. Adding 3M silicone door tape to all four sides. gave me the seal to run at 1200, and still be economical. Cost was important, As I need to run dehumidifier in flower. But the bunus, is that it bushes the air to the area I want it to, which increases the efficacy of my Co2 circulation.
I'm a home grower, so not suggesting this is good for fully automated run. As I do Go in the tent at lights on, to give it a natal boosts. And to tend to the plants and water. Which can raise it up to as much as 2000ppm which takes a couple of hours to drift back top my trigger point of 1100. But it works for me. And I'm actually quite proud of the way it works for the price.
One more thing...I recently discovered that the internet recopy of 300 g of citric and the same of bicarb, into 450ml of water, is wrong. the correct formulae is 230g of anhydrous citric acid and 300 bicarb into 500ml of water. Good news as the citric is the more expensive of the two.
My apogee 610 is constantly monitoring in my tent! Good shit!!!
22:50 I'd say most smaller growers just vent because you need to cool it somehow and i just get dry cool air from outside and humidify it up.
There are many growers, who panic about burning the seedling with too much light, that they keep them much too dark in the first three weeks. Then they have leggy seedlings, which need to get help for stability.
Wow a DLI of 100 on a controlled cannabis plant. That's so bright. I can't imagine the lights for that test.
Very impressive and great content.
1200ppm co2 at 4000 micromoles per square inch per second, For 12 hours.
My question for budda bugsbie. Do you have anything to speak on concerning an ion exchange that the plant uses. Would using ionized or deionized water have any increase on growth or uptake of nutrients persay ?
Made respect for you both thanks
The criteria for water are pretty straight forward:
1. PH must be right. This means 5.5-6.5 for hydro or coco, earth is more tolerant to pH variations because it buffers more, but 6-6.5 is still where it will end up in the soil. "Ionized water" (aka water that was run through an electrolysis process, the term is misleading) fails right there because it raises pH which is usually undesirable. Most tap water is already too alkaline, this just makes it worse.
2. It should contain the correct amounts of calcium and magnesium. Something like 90mg/l calcium, 30mg/l magnesium.
3. The water should not contain chlorine (this can be solved if it does, chlorine evaporates easily), heavy metals or other contaminants, and not too much chloride or sodium.
Deionized water is almost completely pure, so you will have to add Ca and Mg back in. Other than that it's fine, you can use it if your tap water is unsuitable for one reason or another.
I use a 2liter bottle with turbo yeast and 2cups sugar for co2 and I change it out every 3-5days. Leaving 3bottles hanging in my grow tent. I could definitely see the plants absorbing the extra co2 because after I didn't add the bottles to the room. You could see scar marks on the plant leaf with a cell phone microscope.
I want to do the same for my grow. Did it have any impact on smell or taste. People say this mixture stinks.
This is cannabis cultivator gold knowledge eloquently verbalized so a numbskull closet grower can understand. Thank you both so very much for this.
Thank you so much for this Shane. I have been excitedly waiting for this.
--START WARM AND COOL OFF--
That explains why my best crop (16oz one 600w hps) was achieved in the coldest months and that I blasted the room with freezing temps.
Dr Bruce recommends 60% humidity for flowering too? And when should you start lowering your temperature? From the very beginning of flowering?
I like it a lot. Watch all buys really good quality, and the doctor is going change the way I grow guaranteed
Great show again, thanks Shane and Dr Bugbee! If an autoflower is under 24/0 lighting but still receives a DLI of 60, will the lesser intensity needed have any effect on quality?
Thats dr bruce from the light/soil video way back!🤙 man that was a great video
enjoying the deep dive
The Master Dr. Bruce Bugbee. Always fantastic and interesting content.
It costs 400-600$(USD) for a 60lb C02 tank. Between $30-50$ to fill/refill. 100$ for hardware.
You also need to build a sealed room and invest in a designated split AC and commercial Dehumidifier.
If you get 20% to 30% more yield for the same light input it can be worth it? However for small setups it is a lot of investment.
What the industry needs is a chart like a phase chart. including feed concentrations, dli, co2 and most importantly temperature(plant vs atmos). there balance and relationship is obviously of utmost importance and i would dream of being a golden ratio for any plant due to finding a plants optimum dli and therefor optimum co2 and feed rates. As my machinist father taught me, it always comes down to speeds n feeds.
thx! i learned a lot and still got so many questions. is there a gentic or strain which is the most effective concerning photosynthetical datas? what about outdoor green fingerprint; input/output? what might be the role of cannabis in a green transformation?
So basically start to lower the temperature at the end of the flower stage. Mimic the late September and October temperatures in the end.
Bugbee is the GOAT!
top tier content as usual 🤝 thank you so much
Love talks like this thank you both for the amazing information!
The original Doctor Green Thumb..
Great content 👌
Makes the question of why research was barred for so long, and for the reasons given - much more intriguing.
THANKS APPOGEE THANKS SO MUCH BRUCE
Bruce Bugbee, the cannabis light sage,
Says, "A hundred moles? That's quite the high stage!
With CO2 pumped, Your buds will be clumped.
But your electric bill might cause outrage!"
So what light or how are you getting 2300 ppfd at the top of the canopy without lgiht bleaching or burn? What spectrum
Always a great conversation!
GREAT CONTENT!!!🙏🙌
What is the best practice for CO2 in late flower? Ive heard its best to cut out CO2 and reduce the light intensity for the final 1-2 weeks? It was mentioned that co2 inhibits ripening?
currently I flower at 1300 PPFD with 1200 PPM of CO2 (85C at the canopy) but at the end of flower will remove Co2, drop to 900 ppfd and try to get the canopy to 73day and 60night.
I found mycrobal rock dust and frass to be so good i never check anything but leaf health ever since i started it. And DJ Shorts 11 on 13 off on flower cycle does show different phenotype expressions.
Great info! Shane could you please spec bar lights:
1) Phillips greenpower toplighting linear 2.2
2)Fluence VYPR 3p
3) ThinkGrow model-I plus
All with dimmers. I appreciate all your efforts bringing technical knowledge to the bro-science knuckle heads. PEOPLES
Would love to hear what Bruce says about light cycles of Automatics (people do 18/, 20/4, 24/0 from seed to crop)
Très intéressante vidéo merci messieurs
Stay Safe
What I'd like to know, is since cannabis starts super slow at the begining of flowering, should you cut back on lights or light time? so 8 hours of light for the first 2-3 weeks and increase to 12 hours of light for the major part of flowering? lmk.
26:43 Can you please clarify with Dr Bugbee, he said "and don't turn them off you just paid for the expensive lights, don't turn them off." Did he mean you can let them run 24hours for veg to shorten veg? He didn't go into the whole rest period debate and whether plants really need that.
It was meant that u can go up to 1000umol if you can- no need in reducing to 500. Calculation was for 18 hours- it was already almost 65dli and u better not go over that number (u will if u add another 6 hours of light).
Great show.
Do you know of a iphone apps that will show you light spectrum curve?
I use little mirrors to put more light from underneath the buds... In my opinion it works good..
He’s not lying i had my hlg 650 pumping 320 watts over 4 plants in veg for 18 hours a day it took them a few days to get used to the extra light but they took off I’ve got TREMENDOUS growth in 2 weeks.(although 1 of those weeks is the 1st week of flower but at around 570 watts now)
I was initially only going to use 400 watts at 1st giving 100 watts to each plant should be around 112g but i have a few smaller size plants that i know that i know wont yield that but after a week around 600 watts including 30 watt uv bar I’m expecting over 112g on those bigger plants and around 100g on the 2 smaller plants
Great information 👍🏾
Shane bringing the goods!