Congrats for this informative explanation video. I love to listen to your clear way of explaining that makes it comprehensible even for not natives. You convinced me of buying the veritas honing guide. Thank you!
I also discovered this honing guide. SO MUCH better than the cheaper "Stanley" brand guide I bought first. I use wet/dry sandpaper on a granite surfacing block -which gives me a longer stroke. And lately, I'm finishing by stropping on a leather block. THAT is the difference between very very sharp, and sharp enough to shave with. If I can't easily shave hair off my arm, I know my tool isn't as sharp as possible. I'm sharpening 1/2" to 1" chisels.
Hey Peter, I had to laugh when you said it’s only a shop. If your anything like your viewers you’ll spend more time in that area then anywhere else. The floor looks great!
Peter, the stop on the registration jig can chip the blade edge sometimes even if you are careful. When you tighten the screws to hold the blade it can get trapped under the stop and fracture. It is the one weak link on an otherwise excellent piece of kit. I used a Sharpie to mark the commonly used angles on the underside of the jig and moved the stop well out of the way.
Hi Mouppe, I did check the tool very carefully and did not see any risk of that happening - perhaps the design has been modified. I am happy with mine. Peter
mouppe I bought the planes about 2 months ago and I absolutely love them. I wish that I had been able to afford to buy them earlier but, the best things are worth waiting for. Peter
I would highly recommend that you sharpen the Veritas blades. Although they come from the factory sharp enough to cut yourself, they are not sharp enough for quality work, IMO. The best part about Veritas blades is that the back is very flat. You only need to spend a few minutes polishing the back before proceeding to the bevel. New Hock blades take a lot longer, and even Lie-Nielson blades are not as flat as Veritas. There really is a night and day difference between your own honed and polished blades and what Veritas ships you.
yeah, they need to be honed. and yes, you can lap without a jig-a ton of people do. Being afraid to sharpen wrong is what prevented me from productivity for so long. Ive learned that as long as you check what you are doing often, no mustake is irreparable.
Thanks again for an informative presentation. I have been using the MKII for several years now. The only issue I have discovered is that the narrower the tool in the holding bar, the more prone you are to skewing the tool from the 90 degree position. The knurled nuts are too small to offer enough torque to ensure that your blade never moves. Plane irons are always secure, but chisels can move. This is more of a problem on mortising chisels with their thicker profile. As we get older the arthritis in our hands also plays havoc at times.
Xoncention I had the same problem and made some wooden shims the thickness of each chisel and that effectively made the chisel wider and took care of the problem.
Well presented & informative video - thanks ! I'm just starting experimenting with sticky-back-abrasives on float glass myself, and am also awaiting delivery of the Veritas sharpening jig. Like you, I've also bought some nice, new Veritas planes to help out my trusty old Stanleys. Are you pleased with your new (or rather 6 year old) planes and the PM-V11 blades ? I have not got around to even sharpening mine yet... but they seem very good, excellent build quality it would seem.
I absolutely love my Veritas planes and would not swap them for anything. The PM-V11 blades are excellent and keep their edge very well. I also bought the PM-V11 chisels and despite taking great care and using blade guards I notice that two of them have chips out. Both need to be re-ground at the primary bevel. I am sure it is just bad luck and do not believe that I have mistreated them. I can do the new primary bevel using the lapping technique but with some 600 grit wet and dry. Cheers. Peter
Hi Mark, Making the frame was rather easy. It is just a piece of plywood with an edge to contain the glass and a plywood cover. I did then add some little corner brackets tostop the glass falling out. Thanks for your support. Peter
Hi Peter, thanks for another clearly articulated woodworker guide. I'm relatively new to a lot of the techniques but I'm also curious and like to get everything clear and logical before proceeding. With chisels and plane blades that are the subject of the video there are two sides to the blade. The flat back and the bevel. Most of the instructions I come across only talk about working on the bevel. It's my thinking that both sides need work in order to achieve a sharp edge. What do you do about the flat (back) side of your tools, either whether they are new or used..? Many thanks from down under in New Zealand Steve
Hi Steve, As you work through the grades it is a good idea to lap the back (put the back flat on the abrasive without the honing guide). This gets rid of the tiny burr that is created as the bevel side is worked upon. Peter
Hey Peter. Considering the veritas honing guide. I have heard a few folks have had trouble with some instability when using the guide to sharpen chisels, even relatively large 3/4 inch or 1 inch chisels. Any comments on that in your opinion.
Hi Josh, I have had no problems at all. It may be that some people find using such things easier than others. I do not believe that there is any inherant problem. I am quite arthritic, especially my wrists and hands, yet I can manage. Peter
The adjuster for the secondary bevel only adjust one end of the roller, the other end doesn’t adjust. Therefore you end up grinding a crooked bevel every single time. Terrible design
The carborundum stone followed by india and arkansas (and no guide use) would lend itself to much faster sharpening. There's a notion that oilstones: 1) can't get tools that sharp (they do, however, create a much sharper and smoother straight razor than all but the finest lapping films) 2) can't cut difficult steels The first isn't true, and the second is a matter of learning touch and learning to grind accurately so that not much metal is left. It is a shame to go from using a stone, probably with some skill, to moving to a cumbersome setup that limits the sharpener and relies on gadgetry.
Hi David, I have seen your work and have great respect for your talents. My Father, and his father too, used to make their own planes. Sharpening was always by hand with no guides. When Dad retired he decided to build a violin and spent most of his time making the special baby plans for the task. He never did make a violin but that was just bad luck. Take care. Peter
Thank you. It's weird how popular it is in the West and how unknown it is in my parts of the World. BTW, I've just found your channel. Good content and lots of it!
Congrats for this informative explanation video. I love to listen to your clear way of explaining that makes it comprehensible even for not natives.
You convinced me of buying the veritas honing guide. Thank you!
I also discovered this honing guide. SO MUCH better than the cheaper "Stanley" brand guide I bought first. I use wet/dry sandpaper on a granite surfacing block -which gives me a longer stroke. And lately, I'm finishing by stropping on a leather block. THAT is the difference between very very sharp, and sharp enough to shave with. If I can't easily shave hair off my arm, I know my tool isn't as sharp as possible. I'm sharpening 1/2" to 1" chisels.
Good stuff - well done. Peter
Hey Peter, I had to laugh when you said it’s only a shop. If your anything like your viewers you’ll spend more time in that area then anywhere else. The floor looks great!
Hi Gary, I think my wife is buying me a camp bed for Christmas !! Cheers. Peter
Peter, the stop on the registration jig can chip the blade edge sometimes even if you are careful. When you tighten the screws to hold the blade it can get trapped under the stop and fracture. It is the one weak link on an otherwise excellent piece of kit. I used a Sharpie to mark the commonly used angles on the underside of the jig and moved the stop well out of the way.
Hi Mouppe, I did check the tool very carefully and did not see any risk of that happening - perhaps the design has been modified. I am happy with mine. Peter
Peter Parfitt That's good to know. Maybe they have modified it? I have had mine for many years now. Thanks for the video and enjoy the new planes!
mouppe I bought the planes about 2 months ago and I absolutely love them. I wish that I had been able to afford to buy them earlier but, the best things are worth waiting for. Peter
mouppe Yes, I checked it very carefully last night and there is no danger at all of any damage to the blade. Peter
I would highly recommend that you sharpen the Veritas blades. Although they come from the factory sharp enough to cut yourself, they are not sharp enough for quality work, IMO.
The best part about Veritas blades is that the back is very flat. You only need to spend a few minutes polishing the back before proceeding to the bevel. New Hock blades take a lot longer, and even Lie-Nielson blades are not as flat as Veritas.
There really is a night and day difference between your own honed and polished blades and what Veritas ships you.
Thank you for the advice. I will summon up the courage and give my PMV-11s a little tickle. Peter
yeah, they need to be honed. and yes, you can lap without a jig-a ton of people do. Being afraid to sharpen wrong is what prevented me from productivity for so long. Ive learned that as long as you check what you are doing often, no mustake is irreparable.
Brilliant method,well done Peter.
Thanks Dave. Peter
Thanks again for an informative presentation. I have been using the MKII for several years now. The only issue I have discovered is that the narrower the tool in the holding bar, the more prone you are to skewing the tool from the 90 degree position. The knurled nuts are too small to offer enough torque to ensure that your blade never moves. Plane irons are always secure, but chisels can move. This is more of a problem on mortising chisels with their thicker profile. As we get older the arthritis in our hands also plays havoc at times.
+Stewart Robertson Thanks for that Stewart. Peter
Xoncention I had the same problem and made some wooden shims the thickness of each chisel and that effectively made the chisel wider and took care of the problem.
Well presented & informative video - thanks !
I'm just starting experimenting with sticky-back-abrasives on float glass myself, and am also awaiting delivery of the Veritas sharpening jig. Like you, I've also bought some nice, new Veritas planes to help out my trusty old Stanleys. Are you pleased with your new (or rather 6 year old) planes and the PM-V11 blades ? I have not got around to even sharpening mine yet... but they seem very good, excellent build quality it would seem.
I absolutely love my Veritas planes and would not swap them for anything. The PM-V11 blades are excellent and keep their edge very well. I also bought the PM-V11 chisels and despite taking great care and using blade guards I notice that two of them have chips out. Both need to be re-ground at the primary bevel. I am sure it is just bad luck and do not believe that I have mistreated them. I can do the new primary bevel using the lapping technique but with some 600 grit wet and dry. Cheers. Peter
Hi Peter, great video very useful. Would be good to see a video on how you made the wooden frame to hold the lapping plate.
Hi Mark, Making the frame was rather easy. It is just a piece of plywood with an edge to contain the glass and a plywood cover. I did then add some little corner brackets tostop the glass falling out. Thanks for your support. Peter
Hi Peter, thanks for another clearly articulated woodworker guide. I'm relatively new to a lot of the techniques but I'm also curious and like to get everything clear and logical before proceeding. With chisels and plane blades that are the subject of the video there are two sides to the blade. The flat back and the bevel. Most of the instructions I come across only talk about working on the bevel. It's my thinking that both sides need work in order to achieve a sharp edge. What do you do about the flat (back) side of your tools, either whether they are new or used..? Many thanks from down under in New Zealand
Steve
Hi Steve, As you work through the grades it is a good idea to lap the back (put the back flat on the abrasive without the honing guide). This gets rid of the tiny burr that is created as the bevel side is worked upon. Peter
Hey Peter. Considering the veritas honing guide. I have heard a few folks have had trouble with some instability when using the guide to sharpen chisels, even relatively large 3/4 inch or 1 inch chisels. Any comments on that in your opinion.
Hi Josh, I have had no problems at all. It may be that some people find using such things easier than others. I do not believe that there is any inherant problem. I am quite arthritic, especially my wrists and hands, yet I can manage. Peter
The adjuster for the secondary bevel only adjust one end of the roller, the other end doesn’t adjust. Therefore you end up grinding a crooked bevel every single time. Terrible design
good tutorial, thx
Cheers Mike. Peter
The carborundum stone followed by india and arkansas (and no guide use) would lend itself to much faster sharpening.
There's a notion that oilstones:
1) can't get tools that sharp (they do, however, create a much sharper and smoother straight razor than all but the finest lapping films)
2) can't cut difficult steels
The first isn't true, and the second is a matter of learning touch and learning to grind accurately so that not much metal is left.
It is a shame to go from using a stone, probably with some skill, to moving to a cumbersome setup that limits the sharpener and relies on gadgetry.
Thank you David. Peter
I realize that could've come across as too critical. Of course, when you're in your shop, you do as you like and not as I like!!
Hi David, I have seen your work and have great respect for your talents. My Father, and his father too, used to make their own planes. Sharpening was always by hand with no guides. When Dad retired he decided to build a violin and spent most of his time making the special baby plans for the task. He never did make a violin but that was just bad luck. Take care. Peter
@@NewBritWorkshop hm
What's the brand of the 3-in-1 oil? I can't find any in Poland.
I do not have any with me but any thin oil, maybe sewing machine oil. will do. Peter
Thank you. It's weird how popular it is in the West and how unknown it is in my parts of the World. BTW, I've just found your channel. Good content and lots of it!
You're right that Tormek is useless. I'll come by to dispose of it for you at no charge.
I sold it years ago ! Peter