Thanks. Im going to try this in my 95 s10. I went from 5w30 to 10w30 and changed the oil sending unit. After 15 minutes on the highway and around town I get the low oil pressure light at stop lights. While driving its normal. Thanks for the info, hopefully this works, my engine has 225k and runs good.
Had a brand new engine had an AC Delco filter on it ran it 5 miles for the break in oil and changed it. we put a Fram filter on it and new oil and it went from having 60 psi to zero oil pressure! We thought the gauge was wrong until the valves started rattling because they weren’t getting any oil. We assumed the oil pump shaft broke. We removed the oil pan change the oil pump and we put an M55HV on it, put it all back together put oil back in it started the car it had 10 pounds of pressure then went to zero almost immediately. I worked at an engine shop where I bored engines built engines, machined and built heads you name it we did it. I had heard stories from Customers saying Fram oil filters were making their oil pressure go crazy just out of the blue so we removed the brand new Fram filter and put the old AC Delco back on it. The oil pressure went up to 70 psi cold. I have no idea how that happened because the adapter the oil filter screws onto has a bypass valve in it so if the filter was stopped up it should have just bypassed the filter altogether but for some reason none of that worked. so I will never ever run a Fram oil filter again and I wouldn’t recommend anyone running them either.
I stopped using FRAM when I heard they glue a paper-cardboard end plate to a paper filter and the glue comes apart with water-moisture. I live in Florida. I buy "premium" brand filters and stick magnets around them to catch fine iron particles. I add a quart of "Diesel" spec oil to supplement the ZDDP anti-wear that is no longer in "car" oils.
I'm having almost all same issues. I had the motor built 12 years ago . I just fires it up for the first time 3 weeks ago. Today it died on me now it's saying 0 psi. Fires right up now, no knocking or any bad noise but I'm scared to run it. I'll try the filter
Pulled it out of a field and didn't even bother to change the oil before putting it on the road? Seriously? And then you dump seafoam in it and drive it for another couple weeks? Did you finally manage to kill it?
had a 97 suburban 5.7 just at 200,000 miles. At start up pressure was fine but after warm and run highway for 50 min oil pressure went way down to about 10 -12 lbs at idle. always used synthetic oil. I replaced oil pump to no help. Was told could be seals, finally swapped out with a new 350
Back in the old days, before multi grade oils and such, if you bought a high, or suspected high mileage motor, you did NOT go straight home and change the oil, MANY motors were toasted that way. Why? Sludge. People didn’t, and still don’t, change their oil regularly. Sludge builds up. Today’s oils have much more detergents in them than years ago, but it still is a fact they get sludge up. You run motor cleaners through them and they clean all the sludge and varnish loose and your a happy clam….except it ALL doesn’t go to the filter. It goes all through the motor , plugging oil galleys and carrying hard deposits to the bearings , through the oil pump and all around. The same fix we used then works now. Several short term oil and filter changes will pick up and move the sludge in smaller amounts. Amounts the detergents can keep it suspended in the oil. Also, dropping the pan before and after running a cleaner through a motor is crucial. Maybe this motor will last, my money says not long. Long term low rpm and short, not to full operating temp runs are engine killers. Some guys pour diesel or kerosene in the crankcase to flush, again, Russian roulette. Also, never forget low oil pressure at idle can be a sign of crank bearing worn out and / or oil pump failing. This wasn’t a “ fix” it was a “ Hail Mary”.
The engine is full of sludge from over 20 years of low speed driving and long intervals between oil changes. You need to pull the engine for a cleaning and refresh.
1990 Chevy 1500. Value Guide seals. Smokes on start up. I had them replaced that stopped it!!
This actually helped out a lot. Thank you.
Thanks. Im going to try this in my 95 s10. I went from 5w30 to 10w30 and changed the oil sending unit. After 15 minutes on the highway and around town I get the low oil pressure light at stop lights. While driving its normal. Thanks for the info, hopefully this works, my engine has 225k and runs good.
Now let’s talk about a fresh rebuilt 305 with no oil pressure
the Fram did it's job!
Make sure y'all check y'all oil cap
Had a brand new engine had an AC Delco filter on it ran it 5 miles for the break in oil and changed it. we put a Fram filter on it and new oil and it went from having 60 psi to zero oil pressure! We thought the gauge was wrong until the valves started rattling because they weren’t getting any oil. We assumed the oil pump shaft broke. We removed the oil pan change the oil pump and we put an
M55HV on it, put it all back together put oil back in it started the car it had 10 pounds of pressure then went to zero almost immediately.
I worked at an engine shop where I bored engines built engines, machined and built heads you name it we did it.
I had heard stories from Customers saying Fram oil filters were making their oil pressure go crazy just out of the blue so we removed the brand new Fram filter and put the old AC Delco back on it. The oil pressure went up to 70 psi cold. I have no idea how that happened because the adapter the oil filter screws onto has a bypass valve in it so if the filter was stopped up it should have just bypassed the filter altogether but for some reason none of that worked. so I will never ever run a Fram oil filter again and I wouldn’t recommend anyone running them either.
I stopped using FRAM when I heard they glue a paper-cardboard end plate to a paper filter and the glue comes apart with water-moisture. I live in Florida.
I buy "premium" brand filters and stick magnets around them to catch fine iron particles. I add a quart of "Diesel" spec oil to supplement the ZDDP anti-wear that is no longer in "car" oils.
I'm having almost all same issues. I had the motor built 12 years ago . I just fires it up for the first time 3 weeks ago. Today it died on me now it's saying 0 psi. Fires right up now, no knocking or any bad noise but I'm scared to run it. I'll try the filter
Its probably paraffin wax from cheep oil, mine did that and after some time got a lot better, a lot of oil changes.
Pulled it out of a field and didn't even bother to change the oil before putting it on the road? Seriously? And then you dump seafoam in it and drive it for another couple weeks? Did you finally manage to kill it?
Never use fram oil filters
had a 97 suburban 5.7 just at 200,000 miles. At start up pressure was fine but after warm and run highway for 50 min oil pressure went way down to about 10 -12 lbs at idle. always used synthetic oil. I replaced oil pump to no help. Was told could be seals, finally swapped out with a new 350
Back in the old days, before multi grade oils and such, if you bought a high, or suspected high mileage motor, you did NOT go straight home and change the oil, MANY motors were toasted that way. Why? Sludge. People didn’t, and still don’t, change their oil regularly.
Sludge builds up. Today’s oils have much more detergents in them than years ago, but it still is a fact they get sludge up.
You run motor cleaners through them and they clean all the sludge and varnish loose and your a happy clam….except it ALL doesn’t go to the filter. It goes all through the motor , plugging oil galleys and carrying hard deposits to the bearings , through the oil pump and all around.
The same fix we used then works now. Several short term oil and filter changes will pick up and move the sludge in smaller amounts. Amounts the detergents can keep it suspended in the oil. Also, dropping the pan before and after running a cleaner through a motor is crucial.
Maybe this motor will last, my money says not long. Long term low rpm and short, not to full operating temp runs are engine killers.
Some guys pour diesel or kerosene in the crankcase to flush, again, Russian roulette.
Also, never forget low oil pressure at idle can be a sign of crank bearing worn out and / or oil pump failing.
This wasn’t a “ fix” it was a “ Hail Mary”.
The engine is full of sludge from over 20 years of low speed driving and long intervals between oil changes. You need to pull the engine for a cleaning and refresh.
I’d say the filter did it’s job
did it fix the problem?
yes, normal oil pressure after I changed the oil!