Sam, that turbo won't last long. All turbine and compressor wheels from any turbo company are balanced separately. But, they must be balanced as an assembly as well. This is done by "group balancing" on a Heins balancing machine, or on a VSR (Vibration Sorting Rig) machine which spools the turbo to 70,000+rpm and it will tell you where the imbalance is. I worked at Turbonetics for 8 years and have built and rebuilt thousands of turbos. Also, you failed to clean the excessive burnt oil (called "coking") on the piston ring seal area on the turbine wheel shaft. I will also let you know that the failure happened originally because the oil draining out of the turbo is not draining quickly enough. This causes the oil to build up inside the center housing of the turbo and the pressure will cause it to leak past the piston ring seal of the turbine wheel and / or compressor wheel and dump oil into the exhaust and / or intake. The oil drains from the bottom by gravity into the crankcase. There has to be a slope in oil drain line so it flows properly into the crankcase. If the oil drain is horizontal, it will back up with oil quickly back into the turbo since it cannot drain fast enough.
Not to worry, he'll be buying a new turbo within 1,000 miles. between that cheap rebuild kit and the now unbalanced CHRA, the failure is going to chew the poopy out of the compressor housing and possibly snap the turbine wheel.
Hey Mark, thanks for the info. I did clean around the piston ring area before installing the new one. There is a slight angle to the way the oil line sits on it now, not sure if its enough of an angle though. If you search up this specific turbo kit online, there are multiple people saying they had the same issue with the turbo leaking oil, and some of them in very short order (like after 1000 miles of use). By looking at the turbocharger, can you tell exactly what it is (brand/type)?
@@Samcrac Hi Sam, the area I am referring to that still had the residual burnt oil was not on the groove that the piston ring seal sits in, but the larger diameter between that and the turbine wheel blades. The tolerance on that diameter is extremely tight and the surface must be clean and bare metal. Otherwise, it will leak. As far as the turbo itself goes, it looks like a knockoff noname T4 flange exhaust side, T04B compressor side. Not sure on the exact size of the compressor and turbine wheel trim size though. You would need to remove the housings and measure the inducer and exducer diameter of both wheels. Compare the measurements online to new wheels and you'll see what trim size the wheels are. You could also replace the turbo with a known brand, like a Garrett, once you know the size. You can upgrade to a ball bearing over the journal bearing too, which would make it spool faster. If others are complaining online about the oil leaking from their turbo with the kit, the oil drain design in the kit seems to be the culprit. A scavenger pump on the drain can alleviate this issue by pumping the oil back to the crankcase instead of gravity drain. Ask Tavarish about this as he had the same issue on his Gallardo turbo and added a scavenger pump. Best of luck, Sam!
You marked the turbo housings to clock them correctly so they would go back into the car easily but that’s not the part that’s balanced. The compressor and the turbine wheels are balanced to each other and I did not see you mark the position of the compressor wheel on the shaft after taking off the nut. if you did it looks like you did not show us that part and it sounded like you were mistaken about clocking the housings vs balancing the wheels. If you did not properly mark the orientation of the compressor wheel then you likely now have extra vibration in your turbo and it may not last very long. Just a heads up.
He also hits the shaft with a hammer a few times, so this turbo needs balance for sure, or this turbo will go into pieces. Sam woke up before is too late. You need to take down this turbo and take it to a turbo expert shop for balance.
@@darionerat3671 Hammer probably not an issue. I had to use some gentle persuasion for mine as well and no issues after 40k miles and 5+ years. Shaft is very hard. Pun intended.
I do agree that it's best to get a balance of the turbo compressor wheel and turbine wheel and shaft but they can be balanced separately and then go together in any orientation. I can't say whether this turbo was balanced that way but I have seen turbo components balanced separately.
The turbo is leaking because of the -10 oil drain fitting being too small on the ID, it’s a super common issue, I have several videos of fixing this. You could / should have used an upgrade 360 degree thrust bearing kit which is for high boost. I also prefer to cut the plate behind the compressor wheel for an oring. Also I would suggest that you marked the compressor nut, wheel and shaft location with a file to keep the location of the compressor wheel at which it was balanced. This turbo is a to4s 60-1 59 x76mm with ptrim 64.5 x 74mm turbine, it’s a Garrett turbo. It’s rated about 650 hp. The oil will leak out again, it’s forced out the front and rear seal of the turbo because the oil drain fitting isn’t large enough for the oil to leave the turbos center cartridge. Here is how you fix the oil drain problem: Fix precision 6466 turbo oil leak permanently ua-cam.com/video/WLJCVKAm-NQ/v-deo.html
The first thing you should have checked is the turbo oil drain system. A blocked or malfunctioning remote drain will can cause the same issue causing the turbo oil seals to back up with oil as it has nowhere to go but through the turbo seals. On a Porsche boxer engine the turbos sit low and hence have a remote drain back that needs to pump oil back up to the sump. I suggest you check the turbo drain back system.
This! Very typical of a turbo that isn't draining. Either he needs a scavenge pump, or the existing one is non-functional. Especially with no visible damage to the bearings, seals, and rings.
A good way to destroy your turbo. The way you hammer off the housing can cause bending in the blades (as the housing comes off hitting the blades). Then you are screwed. Also the balancing is not the same as the clocking. You should have marked the shaft, the nut, the wheels together.
Cool video!! I’m a product/quality engineer for a turbocharger remanufacturing company. From what I saw, your method was ok, and passable for the resources you have access to. A rotational assembly balance would be ideal. Checking the condition of the old rings can tell you a lot about turbo conditions… as can thrust bearing inspection which I didn’t see up close. I see your thrust bearing is a 270… I try to upgrade to 360 whenever possible even if OE was 270. Anyways, thanks for the video and if you ever want to talk turbos gimme a buzz.
Thinking about turbocharging My 20 year old Ford Transit 2.3l DOHC BiFuel Y5A/Y5B(not sure) I4, 143bhp WF0LXXGBFL3E43908. I've been dreaming of a track day stage 5 racing van for weekend fun! Would love to hear any advice you have🙏🛻🏁🏁
I was able to rent a cayman with this turbo kit on it from Turo a few years back and it was a blast to drive. Boost hit right at the perfect spot where the unmodified engine has a bit of a dip so it is a LOT of fun to drive. I've been trying to find a cheap one to buy ever since (with the turbo already installed)
I’d thought about this kit on my 06 Cayman S, but had already gone the FI route on my E92 M3, so instead I went full bolt (IPD plenum, GT3, throttle body, headers, exhaust, and FVD tune, STX coilovers, short shifter). Made a huge difference, the car now keeps up with my brother’s 997.2 Carrera 4S cab in a straight line (until he shifts with pdk, mines a manual), favorite car I’ve owned, and I’ve owned a lot of different enthusiast cars (E36 M3, E92 M3 ESS Supercharged, Miata, S2000, Z3M, C6 Corvette, E63 M6, E39 540 6 speed, MazdaSpeed 3 FBO), Porsche just does them right.
Short shifter, aftermarket kit, small engine light errors, smoke from exhaust... "Never tracked, never beat on, modified but had a kid so decided to sell..."-The ad probably lol.
You got REALLY lucky the exhaust housing came off the center housing that easily. Sometimes it takes making some custom mini presses to pry them apart. All the oil leaking probably helped keep it from staying seized, hahaha. Rebuilding turbos is fun!
P.S. The really important party you didn't cover is match marking the compressor wheel and nut to the turbine shaft. They're supposed to be assembled in the exact same orientation they came apart, as they should have been dynamically balanced from the factory. You'll probably be fine, as the parts are individually balanced as well before assembly usually, but it can make a big difference. If you end up with turbo issues, it could be due to the lack of reassembling in the same orientation.
@@802Garage You can loosen the nut and put the wheels back in the same position and have different imbalance results after retorquing. Without a VSR balancer its a shot in the dark even with marking the wheels.
@@BoostLab Provided the nut, shaft, and wheel are all in the same positions as before, I don't know how physics would allow for what you are saying. There won't even be additional shaft stretch. I have seen many many many professional rebuilders and turbo companies advise that if a turbo is rebuilt it must all be marked and reassembled with the same orientation. I'd be very interested to see any proof that there could be an imbalance without the introduction of foreign material or damage. Many people will even purchase upgrade wheel and shaft packages which come balanced together and still have to be reassembled to go into the center housing. This would be impossible if balance changed even with correct reassembly. Otherwise, of course getting the entire CHRA balanced is best, but it's simply impractical to expect everyone can have it done.
Sam is a master story teller. I don't even care what car he is rebuilding, could be a tricycle for all I care, but the way he tells the story is UA-cam royalty!
Reminds me of the Wheeler Dealers were Mike bought a Porsche Boxster S with a transmission issue for £1000 and fixed it by just changing the transmission fluid.
Didn't see you mark the positions on the wheel, shaft AND the nut. From what I understand, those are the rotating parts that are balanced together and need to be marked. You seem to only have marked the clocking of the housing which is not the parts that need to remain in balance! Hope you did the proper markings off camera!
You should have marked the impeller/turbine in relation to the shaft to ensure it goes back together more balanced if you’re not going to get the assembly balanced after you put it together.
Oil change tip; use a shop vac, remove the oil fill cap and put the shop vac hose into the hole to create suction. Now go under the car and remove the drain plug, presto, no sudden gush of oil. Remove the shop vac hose and the oil will then drain.
That spring washer on the exhaust turbine needs to be compressed as you slide it in, there is a special tool for doing so, this prevents it from scoring the inner part of the bearing wall, this will cause oil to weep into the exhaust side. If the previous owner damaged the housing and you just did the same then that housing is FUBAR and will always leak no matter how many bearing kits are fitted.
A older Porsche Cayman is what I've recently started calling my "Realistic Dream Car", a car I would love to have and daily drive but with the current economy and my own finances, just cant happen just yet. Cool to see one up close and modified like this though! Hope the rebuild continues to go well!
I've got one. It's fantastic. And despite talking smack about it, most people who really know porsches know that the Cayman is the sweeter handling and more balanced car than the 'halo' 911.
I've only owned one porsche (83 928s) and the brake light at start up meant push the brake so system could check brake system. if ok, the light would extinguish.
If it doesn't, check the wiring on that kenwood h/u Ebrake bypass is done by grounding ebrake wire. I've had people connect car side by accident as well and light is always illuminated.
I just learned that engine blinking thing which I actually needed to learn directly from this video because my cars owners manual just got stolen. Great info as always!
Nice find.. You need to do an injector flow test on each cylinder. The extra fuel might be a leaky injector dripping fuel into the cylinder. Then again, may you just cooked one of the 02 sensors with all the oil burn off.
I use a scribe or a pick to scratch the lines in for alignment. It’s a simple way. I noticed. The permanent markings go way when cleaning with brake parts cleaner or degreasers.
The base cayman doesn't really have bore scoring issues because the piston heads are coated, the S does not have coating and they are the ones that can end up with scoring because of it.
Cayman was the most fun Porsche in my time working for them. Mid engine, stiff as an oak plank but so controllable. Just mad drivting even for beginners.
Some people are commenting that Sam is lucky to have knowledgeable commenters. True, but he earns them by being polite, showing them respect and thanking them. Many experts only ask for a "thanks".
5 litres of oil in australia = good quality $80 easy - $68 up for cheapest good oil - but some high performance oil up near $100 - 5 or 6 litres . petrol = 98% octane $2.05. litre !
Your oil problem is because it's a t4 turbo that requires a oil feed restrictor that doesn't look like it's installed. I go through this with rx7's all the time. You need to slightly restrict the oil feed so the oil doesn't blow out the turbine like what's happening. The reason why you start smoking in high rpm is because the oil pressure increases and starts the blowout.
Didn't you see the shop back Trick. You put the shot back on the top. Add hole and turn it on, then you remove. You're bottom drain plug, set your PENUP against it and turn off the vacuum.. It's so cool
Great channel, and I have not been watching it enough. I owned an 07 Cayman Base 987 for 3 years. Had the A/O separator go bad, and that's it. Replacement seemed simple enough, but I just did have the tools and the place to do it. Fortunately, my girlfriend recommended a good place to take it and they fixed it for a reasonable price. Selling it was painful because they are amazing sports cars. I think the turbo kit gives it Cayman S type performance. The Base model does not have the same engine risks as the S models, and though bore scoring is still possible, I agree that the issue was greatly exaggerated. Quite simply, this era is the last of the analog Porsches and afterwards, they become 4 cylinder turbo charged models. The newer ones are fast, but they don't have as good of an engine sound, (exhaust note) and I think they do not the possess the same aesthetic beauty of the body styles of the 987, & 987.1/.2 - Bottom line is that they are a great entry level Porsche, and are more rigid than Boxters. Low mileage examples can be found in the 25k range. Samrac is a good detective and has a good support system. This is why he can purchase a risky tracked example like this. His brinkmanship has to be admired. Hoping the engine light turns out to be a minor issue.
I have a Ram 6.7 cummins turbo. I am no mechanic but learned/saw there was shaft discoloration on the turbo showing that likely there was oil starvation through the bearing, once that occurs there can be wear causing the shaft to be out of balance. Turbos have to be rebalanced or under pressure there is a chance of catastrophic failure and agree with the other post. I believe the clearances at the thrust bearings are checked and calibrated at 10-15 thousands of an inch, which if not will cause the bronze bearings to fail sooner or later when under max boost to catastrophic failure. I hope the turbo works out ok. Enjoy your videos as a new subscriber and look forward to the next ones. Great videos A++++
C’mon, Samcrac…it’s [Por-Shuh] PCA Member or not, you’re in the club & have way more Hands-On Porsche Mechanic’ing time than 75% of the “PCA/Porsche Purist & Enthusiast(s)” that I personally know. Nice Work with this One, Again. I’d have scooped it up, too, but would’ve had to research TH out of Turbo rebuilding ops. I put my UA-cam Comment Section participant’s hands on all maintenance items of my three Carreras (2 Air-Cooled & 1 Waterboy) because it makes me happy & not just because I do it for 10-40% of a/any reputable shop/garage’s price. Great Score, Mein Freund. go rip TS out of her on the highways
Samcrac I'll be totally honest I forgot all about you and that's a shame because I really enjoy watching you're videos on here. We need at least one video a week like most other UA-cam mechanics 😊😂👍
Whenever I buy an unknown car like that, especially a modified one, I send off a sample to Blackstone Labs when I change the oil the first time. Its $35 and can save you a TON of headache down the road. Results come back in about a week and you'll know if there is anything up like fuel/coolant or any kind of extra metals in there. It saved my turbo LS from cam bearing failure when they saw elevated levels of whatever specific metal those were made of and let me get it apart and change them before total failure occurred.
Your knew this was coming. It’s Porsha. It’s a family name and that’s how they say it. It’s not a choice. I know because I’ve met some of them. Otherwise great video.
You should have checked the Car Fax. You would have found the previous owner of this car was MI-6 ( British Foreign Intelligence ). It was modified by " Q " Branch to dispense a smoke screen when the agent driving the car was being pursued by enemy agents and he engaged the Turbo at high speed.
It's however you want to say it, okay? I said it with one syllable when I owned a 911 just to piss people like you off... I sold it because Porsches are actually garbage and they really don't drive as great as a Corvette or Viper.
Mr. Samrac please cut the filter open width wise. Oil flows in the middle through it outwards. You could have particulate inside that filter. Love your show!
The houusing is clocked that's why you need to mark it. The shaft is balanced, and the turbine wheels' relations to it must also be preserved that's why you mark that too.
Info for all Americans who don't know what this car is called: It's not a Porsch and it's not a Porschiiii. It's pronounced PORSCHE. With a pronounced "E" at the end of the name. Greetings from Porsche Land Germany.
You mark the compressor wheel to the shaft for balancing, marking the housing just allows you to put it back in the same place so your piping can fit to it properly.
very disappointing, your marked the compressor and exhaust housing neither of which have anything to do with the balancing of the turbo. you then removed the impeller and exducer with out marking them which both are essential to balancing the turbo. you also didn't check the oil drain or the oil feed system of the turbo, almost all turbos will have a oil feed restrictor to prevent excessive oil flow and pressure through the turbo and all turbos require a free flowing oil drain to the oil pan or engine, problems with either system will cause excessive oil burning and smoking out of the exhaust. This car will be smoking again at the same rate if not worse in less then 2 weeks. please don't make videos on subjects you clearly know nothing about.
crac never claimed to be an expert, he only claimed to be a backyard mechanic, at that time. Furthermore, you haven’t given us ANY reason to believe you over him. I don’t know you, but I do know samcrac to a degree, and HE makes sense. HE gives good advice, and makes intelligent observations all the time. He inspires confidence. You? I don’t know, but you certainly are arrogant.
I have a feeling this cart was overfilled with oil. This is really common to do because there is 2 drain points and most don't know. It causes them to smoke and pushes oil into the exhaust and i.c. pipes.
Hi Sam a hot tip for low cars like that and lift arms place 1 foot long pieces of 2X8 boards on ground where the tires will be drive up and park on them then you have extra clearance for lift arms
Brake light stayed on because you're low on Brake fluid more than likely in the master cylinder. Also on low cars, you can drive them up on wood for clearance for the lift arms.
You mis-diagnosed the problem. Look how low the turbo is compared to oil pan. What is missing is oil scavenging pump to pump oil back to oil pan or oil will back up in the oil drain and blow out through turbine wheel like what is happening!
They have kits for 16K that pump fuel directly into the turbo to get pops, cracks and shoot flames out the back. It would explain the exhaust buildup on the turbo. That may be worth a bit more than you think.
I’m on the engineer team that designed that turbo kit. It’s leaking from the orings under the fins. It should be lose to spin but not move that far off the rod shaft. I’m also fulll if crap.
I see the feed bags under the clean turbo and the breezeway between the stalls. Your wife is a keeper for letting you install your lift into her Castlebrook. I’m sharing this video with my wife.
4:59 "Only a millimeter or two to spare" Wow.... an American actually using the metric system... I never thought that moment would ever arrive, I guess there is still hope for this world! 👍
😩😩😩😩😢😢😢I had an 08 cayman base in rubyred with tan interior . Best driving car I ever had . I put a Borla exhaust on it and just maintained it perfectly . I had a 79 sc, , a 97 993, and a 79 Ferrari 308 gtb. That cayman handled better than any of them . Best looking also. Sold it a few years ago when I moved out of the lost states of America . Miss it sooo much!
Likely had a oiling issue with that turbo due to its position the oil is collecting without draining back correctly. A turbo sump and scavage system may make it more reliable from similar setups I've seen
Here's what we found when we looked inside this Porsches Engine: ua-cam.com/video/ch_qaIKnngk/v-deo.htmlsi=KblinIGwSF2Z_Jmc
Sam, that turbo won't last long. All turbine and compressor wheels from any turbo company are balanced separately. But, they must be balanced as an assembly as well. This is done by "group balancing" on a Heins balancing machine, or on a VSR (Vibration Sorting Rig) machine which spools the turbo to 70,000+rpm and it will tell you where the imbalance is. I worked at Turbonetics for 8 years and have built and rebuilt thousands of turbos. Also, you failed to clean the excessive burnt oil (called "coking") on the piston ring seal area on the turbine wheel shaft. I will also let you know that the failure happened originally because the oil draining out of the turbo is not draining quickly enough. This causes the oil to build up inside the center housing of the turbo and the pressure will cause it to leak past the piston ring seal of the turbine wheel and / or compressor wheel and dump oil into the exhaust and / or intake. The oil drains from the bottom by gravity into the crankcase. There has to be a slope in oil drain line so it flows properly into the crankcase. If the oil drain is horizontal, it will back up with oil quickly back into the turbo since it cannot drain fast enough.
this is good!
They don't call him short cut Sam for nothing.😅
Not to worry, he'll be buying a new turbo within 1,000 miles. between that cheap rebuild kit and the now unbalanced CHRA, the failure is going to chew the poopy out of the compressor housing and possibly snap the turbine wheel.
Hey Mark, thanks for the info. I did clean around the piston ring area before installing the new one. There is a slight angle to the way the oil line sits on it now, not sure if its enough of an angle though. If you search up this specific turbo kit online, there are multiple people saying they had the same issue with the turbo leaking oil, and some of them in very short order (like after 1000 miles of use). By looking at the turbocharger, can you tell exactly what it is (brand/type)?
@@Samcrac Hi Sam, the area I am referring to that still had the residual burnt oil was not on the groove that the piston ring seal sits in, but the larger diameter between that and the turbine wheel blades. The tolerance on that diameter is extremely tight and the surface must be clean and bare metal. Otherwise, it will leak.
As far as the turbo itself goes, it looks like a knockoff noname T4 flange exhaust side, T04B compressor side. Not sure on the exact size of the compressor and turbine wheel trim size though. You would need to remove the housings and measure the inducer and exducer diameter of both wheels. Compare the measurements online to new wheels and you'll see what trim size the wheels are. You could also replace the turbo with a known brand, like a Garrett, once you know the size. You can upgrade to a ball bearing over the journal bearing too, which would make it spool faster.
If others are complaining online about the oil leaking from their turbo with the kit, the oil drain design in the kit seems to be the culprit. A scavenger pump on the drain can alleviate this issue by pumping the oil back to the crankcase instead of gravity drain. Ask Tavarish about this as he had the same issue on his Gallardo turbo and added a scavenger pump. Best of luck, Sam!
You marked the turbo housings to clock them correctly so they would go back into the car easily but that’s not the part that’s balanced. The compressor and the turbine wheels are balanced to each other and I did not see you mark the position of the compressor wheel on the shaft after taking off the nut. if you did it looks like you did not show us that part and it sounded like you were mistaken about clocking the housings vs balancing the wheels. If you did not properly mark the orientation of the compressor wheel then you likely now have extra vibration in your turbo and it may not last very long. Just a heads up.
This!!!
He also hits the shaft with a hammer a few times, so this turbo needs balance for sure, or this turbo will go into pieces.
Sam woke up before is too late. You need to take down this turbo and take it to a turbo expert shop for balance.
@@darionerat3671 Hammer probably not an issue. I had to use some gentle persuasion for mine as well and no issues after 40k miles and 5+ years. Shaft is very hard. Pun intended.
Yup, came here to say just that.
I do agree that it's best to get a balance of the turbo compressor wheel and turbine wheel and shaft but they can be balanced separately and then go together in any orientation. I can't say whether this turbo was balanced that way but I have seen turbo components balanced separately.
The turbo is leaking because of the -10 oil drain fitting being too small on the ID, it’s a super common issue, I have several videos of fixing this. You could / should have used an upgrade 360 degree thrust bearing kit which is for high boost. I also prefer to cut the plate behind the compressor wheel for an oring. Also I would suggest that you marked the compressor nut, wheel and shaft location with a file to keep the location of the compressor wheel at which it was balanced.
This turbo is a to4s 60-1 59 x76mm with ptrim 64.5 x 74mm turbine, it’s a Garrett turbo. It’s rated about 650 hp.
The oil will leak out again, it’s forced out the front and rear seal of the turbo because the oil drain fitting isn’t large enough for the oil to leave the turbos center cartridge.
Here is how you fix the oil drain problem:
Fix precision 6466 turbo oil leak permanently
ua-cam.com/video/WLJCVKAm-NQ/v-deo.html
He didn't even apply or listen to that
this right here
@@stewartnell That`s the way it often is everywhere. LIke my wife. She never listens.
The first thing you should have checked is the turbo oil drain system. A blocked or malfunctioning remote drain will can cause the same issue causing the turbo oil seals to back up with oil as it has nowhere to go but through the turbo seals. On a Porsche boxer engine the turbos sit low and hence have a remote drain back that needs to pump oil back up to the sump. I suggest you check the turbo drain back system.
This! Very typical of a turbo that isn't draining. Either he needs a scavenge pump, or the existing one is non-functional. Especially with no visible damage to the bearings, seals, and rings.
Should have not should off
A good way to destroy your turbo. The way you hammer off the housing can cause bending in the blades (as the housing comes off hitting the blades). Then you are screwed. Also the balancing is not the same as the clocking. You should have marked the shaft, the nut, the wheels together.
Cool video!! I’m a product/quality engineer for a turbocharger remanufacturing company. From what I saw, your method was ok, and passable for the resources you have access to. A rotational assembly balance would be ideal.
Checking the condition of the old rings can tell you a lot about turbo conditions… as can thrust bearing inspection which I didn’t see up close. I see your thrust bearing is a 270… I try to upgrade to 360 whenever possible even if OE was 270.
Anyways, thanks for the video and if you ever want to talk turbos gimme a buzz.
Thanks for the constructive comment. Much appreciated!
@@Samcrac *Doesn't deny it.
Thinking about turbocharging My 20 year old Ford Transit 2.3l DOHC BiFuel Y5A/Y5B(not sure) I4, 143bhp WF0LXXGBFL3E43908.
I've been dreaming of a track day stage 5 racing van for weekend fun! Would love to hear any advice you have🙏🛻🏁🏁
@@SamcracI was impressed with your turbo disassembly and repair. You're an intelligent guy, nice work.
I was able to rent a cayman with this turbo kit on it from Turo a few years back and it was a blast to drive. Boost hit right at the perfect spot where the unmodified engine has a bit of a dip so it is a LOT of fun to drive. I've been trying to find a cheap one to buy ever since (with the turbo already installed)
Very nice!
You should buy it from him then..
I’d thought about this kit on my 06 Cayman S, but had already gone the FI route on my E92 M3, so instead I went full bolt (IPD plenum, GT3, throttle body, headers, exhaust, and FVD tune, STX coilovers, short shifter). Made a huge difference, the car now keeps up with my brother’s 997.2 Carrera 4S cab in a straight line (until he shifts with pdk, mines a manual), favorite car I’ve owned, and I’ve owned a lot of different enthusiast cars (E36 M3, E92 M3 ESS Supercharged, Miata, S2000, Z3M, C6 Corvette, E63 M6, E39 540 6 speed, MazdaSpeed 3 FBO), Porsche just does them right.
You're supposed to re balance the turbo after disassembly. Likely won't last long without being balanced
Short shifter, aftermarket kit, small engine light errors, smoke from exhaust... "Never tracked, never beat on, modified but had a kid so decided to sell..."-The ad probably lol.
You got REALLY lucky the exhaust housing came off the center housing that easily. Sometimes it takes making some custom mini presses to pry them apart. All the oil leaking probably helped keep it from staying seized, hahaha. Rebuilding turbos is fun!
P.S. The really important party you didn't cover is match marking the compressor wheel and nut to the turbine shaft. They're supposed to be assembled in the exact same orientation they came apart, as they should have been dynamically balanced from the factory. You'll probably be fine, as the parts are individually balanced as well before assembly usually, but it can make a big difference. If you end up with turbo issues, it could be due to the lack of reassembling in the same orientation.
@@802Garage You can loosen the nut and put the wheels back in the same position and have different imbalance results after retorquing. Without a VSR balancer its a shot in the dark even with marking the wheels.
@@BoostLab Provided the nut, shaft, and wheel are all in the same positions as before, I don't know how physics would allow for what you are saying. There won't even be additional shaft stretch. I have seen many many many professional rebuilders and turbo companies advise that if a turbo is rebuilt it must all be marked and reassembled with the same orientation. I'd be very interested to see any proof that there could be an imbalance without the introduction of foreign material or damage. Many people will even purchase upgrade wheel and shaft packages which come balanced together and still have to be reassembled to go into the center housing. This would be impossible if balance changed even with correct reassembly. Otherwise, of course getting the entire CHRA balanced is best, but it's simply impractical to expect everyone can have it done.
Sam is a master story teller. I don't even care what car he is rebuilding, could be a tricycle for all I care, but the way he tells the story is UA-cam royalty!
He probably wouldn't even finish the tricycle.
Agreed. I like how he fixed expensive cars with affordable parts, the only problem he has is that he hops from one project to another before finishing
Exactly if it breaks again he will fix it or get rid off it and get something else he does not buy 99percent off these cars too keep them
You are doing things the rest of us dream about. Thanks, good stuff.
Reminds me of the Wheeler Dealers were Mike bought a Porsche Boxster S with a transmission issue for £1000 and fixed it by just changing the transmission fluid.
Hey man, just had to say I love your channel. I watch a LOT of car UA-camrs and you are my all-time favorite..!
I gotta say your Ads are as smooth as they come. You integrate then seemlessly into your videos as you use the products. 10/10 salesman.
Didn't see you mark the positions on the wheel, shaft AND the nut. From what I understand, those are the rotating parts that are balanced together and need to be marked. You seem to only have marked the clocking of the housing which is not the parts that need to remain in balance! Hope you did the proper markings off camera!
You should have marked the impeller/turbine in relation to the shaft to ensure it goes back together more balanced if you’re not going to get the assembly balanced after you put it together.
Compressor wheel 🙂
I always use some 2x4 or 2x6 to work as "ramps" when lifting super low cars. It's way easier when you're lowering it too :)
The oil getting all over Sam was way to funny🤣🤣
LOL sam was on his top - "Mike went home, showered got a change of clothes but somehow still looks dirty" 😂😂😂
Oil change tip; use a shop vac, remove the oil fill cap and put the shop vac hose into the hole to create suction. Now go under the car and remove the drain plug, presto, no sudden gush of oil. Remove the shop vac hose and the oil will then drain.
yooo tiktok tips
Diane again. I have a 2023 Nissan Altima SR 2.5 FWD. The dealer wants $1300 for curtain airbags and over $400 for seat airbags.
That spring washer on the exhaust turbine needs to be compressed as you slide it in, there is a special tool for doing so, this prevents it from scoring the inner part of the bearing wall, this will cause oil to weep into the exhaust side. If the previous owner damaged the housing and you just did the same then that housing is FUBAR and will always leak no matter how many bearing kits are fitted.
Lol at marking the housings for balance on the turbo 😂
You need to mark the shaft, shaft nut and compressor wheel
Nice work Sam. I love the way you give things a go. You are a source of inspiration!
@user-wv1pj6wh4h goodbye looser if you don't like don't watch simple
A older Porsche Cayman is what I've recently started calling my "Realistic Dream Car", a car I would love to have and daily drive but with the current economy and my own finances, just cant happen just yet. Cool to see one up close and modified like this though! Hope the rebuild continues to go well!
I've got one. It's fantastic. And despite talking smack about it, most people who really know porsches know that the Cayman is the sweeter handling and more balanced car than the 'halo' 911.
I've only owned one porsche (83 928s) and the brake light at start up meant push the brake so system could check brake system. if ok, the light would extinguish.
Thanx for that info ,👍🍀🇬🇧
If it doesn't, check the wiring on that kenwood h/u
Ebrake bypass is done by grounding ebrake wire. I've had people connect car side by accident as well and light is always illuminated.
Always a great day when Samcrac uploads 😁
The turbine sharft seal(piston ring) is the culprit here with the issue you were having
I just learned that engine blinking thing which I actually needed to learn directly from this video because my cars owners manual just got stolen. Great info as always!
Nice find.. You need to do an injector flow test on each cylinder. The extra fuel might be a leaky injector dripping fuel into the cylinder. Then again, may you just cooked one of the 02 sensors with all the oil burn off.
I use a scribe or a pick to scratch the lines in for alignment. It’s a simple way. I noticed. The permanent markings go way when cleaning with brake parts cleaner or degreasers.
I love seeing flashing check engine lights. Always plug related, and an easy fix.
Not always plug related...knock detection will also present a flashing CEL...not as easy of a fix
Small world! Can't believe you have it now! I clicked so fast when I saw those green wheels!
The red flags I see are the mounts for the aftermarket rear wing and smoking turbo. Usually a strong indication the car was raced hard.
thanks captain obvious
Love this car and the rebuild of the turbo. A couple of laughs when the oil came everywhere. Made my day! And its just 8:30 AM here :)
I wish I could've posted the unedited clip
@@Samcrac Perhaps an edited non-monetized channel with few if no edits... "all the words" ... Love your work
It would be awesome to see a Porsche update and upgraded video. Would be really cool to see what that thing can handle or make with more boost.
I'm looking in to everything, maybe even put back on the big wing
@@Samcrac Subbed! i'm looking forward to this
The base cayman doesn't really have bore scoring issues because the piston heads are coated, the S does not have coating and they are the ones that can end up with scoring because of it.
2:49 he tapped the invisible paddle shifter 😅
Cayman was the most fun Porsche in my time working for them. Mid engine, stiff as an oak plank but so controllable. Just mad drivting even for beginners.
Thank you for the great content as always Sam! 😎✌👍
Glad you enjoy it!
Some people are commenting that Sam is lucky to have knowledgeable commenters. True, but he earns them by being polite, showing them respect and thanking them. Many experts only ask for a "thanks".
" Why is it coming out so hard, Why!?" That made me laugh, very entertaining. Love the channel.
5 litres of oil in australia = good quality $80 easy - $68 up for cheapest good oil - but some high performance oil up near $100 - 5 or 6 litres . petrol = 98% octane $2.05. litre !
Clean the exhaust tips. Looking forward to the next video
My dad used to have a Cayman S and even I recognized before the red pipes that the exhaust pipes were DEFINITELY not stock lol.
7:35 Killed me 💀 He got obliterated with that Oil Splash Lmao😂
I like the Cayman more than the current 911s. Doesn’t look so bloated
Yes, the current 911 is much more of a GT car than a sports car.
Your oil problem is because it's a t4 turbo that requires a oil feed restrictor that doesn't look like it's installed. I go through this with rx7's all the time. You need to slightly restrict the oil feed so the oil doesn't blow out the turbine like what's happening. The reason why you start smoking in high rpm is because the oil pressure increases and starts the blowout.
Didn't you see the shop back Trick. You put the shot back on the top.
Add hole and turn it on, then you remove. You're bottom drain plug, set your PENUP against it and turn off the vacuum.. It's so cool
It is going to be actually fixed 😮
Great channel, and I have not been watching it enough. I owned an 07 Cayman Base 987 for 3 years. Had the A/O separator go bad, and that's it. Replacement seemed simple enough, but I just did have the tools and the place to do it. Fortunately, my girlfriend recommended a good place to take it and they fixed it for a reasonable price. Selling it was painful because they are amazing sports cars. I think the turbo kit gives it Cayman S type performance. The Base model does not have the same engine risks as the S models, and though bore scoring is still possible, I agree that the issue was greatly exaggerated. Quite simply, this era is the last of the analog Porsches and afterwards, they become 4 cylinder turbo charged models. The newer ones are fast, but they don't have as good of an engine sound, (exhaust note) and I think they do not the possess the same aesthetic beauty of the body styles of the 987, & 987.1/.2 - Bottom line is that they are a great entry level Porsche, and are more rigid than Boxters. Low mileage examples can be found in the 25k range. Samrac is a good detective and has a good support system. This is why he can purchase a risky tracked example like this. His brinkmanship has to be admired. Hoping the engine light turns out to be a minor issue.
I’ve never rebuilt a turbo on a feed sack but I have done a carb on one. 😂
A few things.
1. Awesome job on saving this Porsche
2. Go Panthers!
3. I wish I had a lift setup like yours
that is all.
Instantly thought of jrGarage they had the same issue I forgot what exactly it was maybe oil air separator or some shit but it was a SUPER cheap fix.
Agree it was the oil separator. I believe it was a really cheap part! The bad one allowed oil to blow into the exhaust!
Yeah that was the first thing he checked in the video
I have a Ram 6.7 cummins turbo. I am no mechanic but learned/saw there was shaft discoloration on the turbo showing that likely there was oil starvation through the bearing, once that occurs there can be wear causing the shaft to be out of balance. Turbos have to be rebalanced or under pressure there is a chance of catastrophic failure and agree with the other post. I believe the clearances at the thrust bearings are checked and calibrated at 10-15 thousands of an inch, which if not will cause the bronze bearings to fail sooner or later when under max boost to catastrophic failure. I hope the turbo works out ok. Enjoy your videos as a new subscriber and look forward to the next ones. Great videos A++++
C’mon, Samcrac…it’s [Por-Shuh]
PCA Member or not, you’re in the club & have way more Hands-On Porsche Mechanic’ing time than 75% of the “PCA/Porsche Purist & Enthusiast(s)” that I personally know.
Nice Work with this One, Again. I’d have scooped it up, too, but would’ve had to research TH out of Turbo rebuilding ops.
I put my UA-cam Comment Section participant’s hands on all maintenance items of my three Carreras (2 Air-Cooled & 1 Waterboy) because it makes me happy & not just because I do it for 10-40% of a/any reputable shop/garage’s price.
Great Score, Mein Freund. go rip TS out of her on the highways
Love the videos . The detective work makes it better than just looking at car reviews or braggers with new cars .
What an absolute steal 😭
I have a 2012 987.2 base in Metallic Saphire, looking forward to watching what that turbocharger does for you!
You basically bought a discounted turbo kit and they threw in the Porsche for free.
Samcrac I'll be totally honest I forgot all about you and that's a shame because I really enjoy watching you're videos on here. We need at least one video a week like most other UA-cam mechanics 😊😂👍
Just drive up on a 2x12 and your lift will fit right under.
This rebuilt is ruff as gutts i love it reminds me of being 17 out in the garage.
If the engine is all gummed up, would love to see seafoam treatment with comparison beforee and after. Intake and gas
Love these type of videos
Great turbo rebuild, then new plugs, solve engine ligth, these cars is good looking and drives very well
pizza, cold beer and a new samcrac, my eve starts great 😎
That's a W
Whenever I buy an unknown car like that, especially a modified one, I send off a sample to Blackstone Labs when I change the oil the first time. Its $35 and can save you a TON of headache down the road. Results come back in about a week and you'll know if there is anything up like fuel/coolant or any kind of extra metals in there. It saved my turbo LS from cam bearing failure when they saw elevated levels of whatever specific metal those were made of and let me get it apart and change them before total failure occurred.
Your knew this was coming. It’s Porsha. It’s a family name and that’s how they say it. It’s not a choice. I know because I’ve met some of them. Otherwise great video.
I don't think someone who has respect for the company/family would do this to one of their cars.
This is one of my "dream cars", meanwhile I specifically switched to Pennzoil Platinum, love this video!
You should have checked the Car Fax. You would have found the previous owner of this
car was MI-6 ( British Foreign Intelligence ). It was modified by " Q " Branch to dispense
a smoke screen when the agent driving the car was being pursued by enemy agents and
he engaged the Turbo at high speed.
This is awesome! Cant wait to see the new updates next time.
Porsche is a 2-syllable word, Sam.
not porsh? 😂
Portia?
That's only if it is a Stripper Name.
@@leonarddaneman810this is a stripper-porsch e
It's however you want to say it, okay? I said it with one syllable when I owned a 911 just to piss people like you off... I sold it because Porsches are actually garbage and they really don't drive as great as a Corvette or Viper.
Mr. Samrac please cut the filter open width wise. Oil flows in the middle through it outwards. You could have particulate inside that filter. Love your show!
making marks on the housing will not ensure balance :)
Much easier driving onto 4 2x6s for your lift, ride height issue. Great deal on the car. Keep it up
As soon as i saw that smoke i knew it was turbo related 😂😂😂😂
The houusing is clocked that's why you need to mark it. The shaft is balanced, and the turbine wheels' relations to it must also be preserved that's why you mark that too.
Samcrac always finds the bargins....or does he?
I've only ever worked on earthmoving diesel machines but I would also just pay careful attention to the oil return line
Your worst nightmare. Watching Sam fix your baby that was totaled for $30 dollars.
How about finishing some projects
Definitely. He likes good engineering, with good parts and assembly. You know, quality.
Info for all Americans who don't know what this car is called: It's not a Porsch and it's not a Porschiiii. It's pronounced PORSCHE. With a pronounced "E" at the end of the name. Greetings from Porsche Land Germany.
Agreed, typical American arrogance to other languages and cultures.
You mark the compressor wheel to the shaft for balancing, marking the housing just allows you to put it back in the same place so your piping can fit to it properly.
very disappointing, your marked the compressor and exhaust housing neither of which have anything to do with the balancing of the turbo. you then removed the impeller and exducer with out marking them which both are essential to balancing the turbo. you also didn't check the oil drain or the oil feed system of the turbo, almost all turbos will have a oil feed restrictor to prevent excessive oil flow and pressure through the turbo and all turbos require a free flowing oil drain to the oil pan or engine, problems with either system will cause excessive oil burning and smoking out of the exhaust. This car will be smoking again at the same rate if not worse in less then 2 weeks. please don't make videos on subjects you clearly know nothing about.
Whatever nerd
Bunch of enabling losers in the replies here.
Suck my ass till my head caves in . Then go back to your gardening.
Cry harder
crac never claimed to be an expert, he only claimed to be a backyard mechanic, at that time. Furthermore, you haven’t given us ANY reason to believe you over him. I don’t know you, but I do know samcrac to a degree, and HE makes sense. HE gives good advice, and makes intelligent observations all the time. He inspires confidence. You? I don’t know, but you certainly are arrogant.
Easy, yeah right. I would still be trying to put that back together for months. Cool car. Hope to see it at 100% soon.
I have a feeling this cart was overfilled with oil. This is really common to do because there is 2 drain points and most don't know. It causes them to smoke and pushes oil into the exhaust and i.c. pipes.
Hi Sam a hot tip for low cars like that and lift arms place 1 foot long pieces of 2X8 boards on ground where the tires will be drive up and park on them then you have extra clearance for lift arms
Good tip! Smarter than what I did!
Hi Sam. Just subscribed. You made me sad when I seen your lovely cars sitting outside. Best regards from James in Scotland. Ps love the Aston.
Brake light stayed on because you're low on Brake fluid more than likely in the master cylinder. Also on low cars, you can drive them up on wood for clearance for the lift arms.
You mis-diagnosed the problem. Look how low the turbo is compared to oil pan. What is missing is oil scavenging pump to pump oil back to oil pan or oil will back up in the oil drain and blow out through turbine wheel like what is happening!
They have kits for 16K that pump fuel directly into the turbo to get pops, cracks and shoot flames out the back. It would explain the exhaust buildup on the turbo. That may be worth a bit more than you think.
I’m on the engineer team that designed that turbo kit.
It’s leaking from the orings under the fins. It should be lose to spin but not move that far off the rod shaft.
I’m also fulll if crap.
I see the feed bags under the clean turbo and the breezeway between the stalls. Your wife is a keeper for letting you install your lift into her Castlebrook. I’m sharing this video with my wife.
4:59 "Only a millimeter or two to spare"
Wow.... an American actually using the metric system... I never thought that moment would ever arrive, I guess there is still hope for this world! 👍
😩😩😩😩😢😢😢I had an 08 cayman base in rubyred with tan interior . Best driving car I ever had . I put a Borla exhaust on it and just maintained it perfectly . I had a 79 sc, , a 97 993, and a 79 Ferrari 308 gtb. That cayman handled better than any of them . Best looking also. Sold it a few years ago when I moved out of the lost states of America . Miss it sooo much!
That's a cool project car, btw your property is amazing.
Likely had a oiling issue with that turbo due to its position the oil is collecting without draining back correctly.
A turbo sump and scavage system may make it more reliable from similar setups I've seen
This video was really informative for someone new to cars thank you!
Glad it was helpful!