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I thought it is a bad practice to simply squeeze in the caliper piston on these newer brake systems. Something has been said about forcing the fluid back into the system can cause damage. ?
@SheppardsinthefieldsBethlehem That wasn't my point. I have seen several mechanics state that the fluid should never be forced BACK INTO these newer abs systems. The proper method to collapse the piston, would be to crack the bleeder and push the fluid out of the caliper instead and NOT back up the line into the system.
Shout out to all the fathers (mine included) that taught their children how to change their own brake pads and oil. SO much money saved over the years!
I don't know how many videos of yours I have watched. My dad was a garage mechanic I had the pleasure of working with him for 5 years until his passing in 1971. He helped hundreds of people get their car fixed, sometimes for little or nothing, just to get someone where they needed to go. Thanks for your service. Robert
@@donniev8181 Who are you people? Do you mean people who watch these videos and copy exactly what Scotty is doing because they did not bother to read shop manuals?
@MrPoppyDuck dude, if you think he shows every little detail of the job in a 10 minute video, you're dumber than a bag of hammers! Plus, there's no need to do all of the extra every time you change pads, especially if the pads are wearing evenly and the rotors are in good condition!
Scotty gets it done but there is (was) some finer detail points missed! Tip: I often use the old inner pad to push Caliper Piston back in so as not to scar the piston with Pliers Teeth.
Ditto - I was cringing watching him put the adjustable pliers directly on the piston(s). Just use one of the old pads to evenly distribute pressure against the piston AND, as you stated, to protect the piston from damage by the pliers.
Good advice. Service places are always saying replace the rotors when you get a brake job. They just want the part markup. Scotty is always straight up honest.
I never did that for years and never had a problem BUT , then one day I DID have a pin get stuck and I NEVER made that mistake again. It only takes one time to learn a lesson!
@@henryhallmann4282thank God I went to trade school and learned from 23 years ago so I've never had this problem on my own vehicles, but have seen it on others where the pin snapped inside the bracket it was so rusted in there and had to buy a new one and waste time when an extra 30 seconds of lubing the pin would've saved it during the previous brake job. Some people just don't know but most are just lazy and rushing the job!
I never really was interested in the mechanics of cars until I found your channel Scotty. Now I want to become a mechanic…..but all three of my sons are very good ones. I’m trying to get them to watch your channel, because you’re full of all sorts of amazing secrets.
Scotty you should tell the people watching your video . When doing disc brakes after replacing pads and having to push the pistons back into the piston caliper bores so the pad fit. They will have to press the brake peddle to get the pistons back against the pads before driving the car. If they just get in the car and back it out without doing that. When they step on the peddle the car will not stop. Also most rear disc brakes require a special tool the reset the rear brake pistons. Also they need to know the brake reservoir the brake fluid will be lower. If they added fluid when they push the pistons back in the caliper bores. The fluid they added will over flow. I use the reservoir to check my pad wear. If it starts the get lower I know the look at my pads.
One thing I like to do is use the old brake pad when compressing the brake caliper piston. Just lay it in place then use a c clamp or channel locks and compress it so that the teeth of the channel locks don't score or scratch the piston or the rubber, this is just how my dad taught me and how I have always done it, doesn't take any longer and assures that you don't damage your piston, probably over kill but safety first.
I would have never pushed the piston back in like you did. I have seen them get cockeyed, snap in two, bend. At the very least if I had to use channel locks I would have used the old pad across the piston so I could get in the middle of the piston of course I have the correct tools. Damn nice job Scotty.
I have done it that way and never had a problem. But, yeah, it could screw them up. I bought a fairly inexpensive tool for that from Harbor Freight and it works great. It's actually easier to do as well.
If you're only changing pads....no need to remove both the top and bottom 14mm bolts.....just remove the lower one.....loosen the top...and SWING the caliper up and out of the way ( tie down). You have all the access you need to remove and reinstall pads.
@@BibW-t5g I've replaced dozens of brake pads and brake shoes on my family cars and have never resurfaced nor changed rotors. Good for you for going the extra mile. To each his own, I guess.
@@BibW-t5g Nobody should pay anybody to "resurface" rotors. You can get new ones for $50-$60 each. No reason to trust someone will do as good as factory finish when you could just get new ones for the same price. Nobody is resurfacing rotors for $20.
@@jaimeramirez-zt9dd Naah, we're still watching the pretty bad content to see if there is some gold nugget of his amazing knowledge since he became an auto mechanic at the age of about 14...
Glad to see Scotty is showing ppl the right way with using a torque wrench with the manufacturer recommended torque. You'd be surprised how many mechanics ignore this. If your lucky you might get them to check it.
Said it before and will say it again. LOVE your videos as you say everything, I tell “friends?” Who bring their cars over to my garage for repair. You’re the greatest!❤
Thanks Scotty, this video inpired me to try this myself instead of going to a shop. Great to know how to do this. And Autozone sent me the wrong rotors too.
To be fair; pressing the pistons in isn't going to raise the level that much. Even still, when you press down on the brake, it'll return to normal. Just something he overlooked because it isn't really a concern.
that's exactly how I do the brakes aswell I found using a little copper grease on the hub makes the brake rotors come off a lot easier when you do the job again in future
@@garykendall1376 Same here; '10 Grand Caravan. I was informed: if your butt shakes, rear. If your hands shake, front. Determined it was front, and wow, so much detail in the construction of the rotor (vs. the marketing spew), and the price difference between the 4 auto parts stores. Had them shipped, and then found that in transit, they were bounced off the concrete more than once. Amazing learning experience even before they went on the axle.
@@garykendall1376 to use the principle "if it's not broke, don't fix it" you can put new pads on and test drive. If there are vibrations, THEN it's time to check the rotors more thoroughly.
Nice, using those pliers. I've been using c-clamps, just don't go beyond gudentight 😂. Always learning something new on every single episode, I appreciate your youtube channel, Boss Scotty 💯% 👍🏼
That looks so simple. I just changed the brakes - rotors, calipers, and brackets - on my F250 because I had a sticky caliper bracket. I am lucky it didn't warp the rotor really. Those brackets were so tight though I had to jack those bolts off there. The rotors weren't too bad to get off, it took a 4x4 and sledge hammer nudge but they were decent, so I had them turned, put a little oil on them and stuck them in the boxes the new ones came in and on a shelf for a later date. That stuff is too expensive to waste. I did the rear ones last year, hubs out. It should be set up good for a few more years. I usually only change pads but 150,000 have passed so I just did it. It was a lot of work for an old woman. It took me 2 days, but I was determined.
Love your common sense, economical approach to car repair. I learned about rotors a long time ago. They always try to get you turn them which results in them being thinner and warping when they get hot making your brakes worse, requiring more brake work. It's a scam.
NEVER collapse a caliper piston with a pair of channelocks (pump pliers) I had a mechanic at Firestone do that, damage a caliper and between the mechanic and service manager I had to eat rotor and pads.700.00 later (the truck was immobilized so I was stuck) the truck rolled out of there. Had been a long time Firestone customer at another location where the service writer there was an honest guy. Unfortunately where I went for this job evidently was not. I told those crooks if you get this truck going I will never set foot in a Firestone again. Been good for my word for 18 years. Never I used to do my own brakes too but travel too much now and have found 2 places, one for trouble codes, the other for tires and lube and use them exclusively. Only way I'd pull into a Firestone or other corp store now is to be breaking down as I approached the entrance. I used a big "C" clamp back in the day to collapse the caliper piston. Catching it on the side like Scotty did sends chills up my spine. For a 50+ year mechanic very vocal and opinionated as he is that is a rookie mistake and could cost the owner 100's of dollars shortly down the road. I know my truck locked up the caliper (working fine before tampered with) within about 2 miles from the ill fated Firestone visit. Years alone do not equate to skill. I train people how to work on vehicular AC systems. Really amazing how many people are misinformed and by the alleged "experts" in our industry. Scotty is a good guy, but when you fail to lube or anti seize critical parts, collapse the caliper with a pair of gonzo pump pliers and so forth it makes me question where Scotty was trained and what kind of training he did get?
If the caliper and fluid are good, I pop the cap on the brake fluid reservoir and then I shove a large screw driver in between the caliper and rotor and pry on the caliper until the piston is all the way in. Then take off the caliper.
@@Joe-em3iw This!! I try to compress the piston using the bad pad as a platform to press against. If I can't do it with my big ole screwdriver lever, then I pull out the c-clamp.
on all new cheap rotors I put on I do a final slow speed turn on each rotor, this makes a world of difference getting miles out of rotors & pads. Never had to do this for old drums
Scotty you’re a National Treasure. If you do retire, I wish you all the best and hope you enjoy your retirement. Thank you for educating us and I’m glad we have your Videos to refer too.
Do not forget to press the brake pedal several times to set the calipers before you drive off. Otherwise your in for a hell of a scare on your first braking encounter!!
Scotty love your work for years, but this case you missed putting anti-seize on the bolts and the rotors where rotor rides on the hub for the next time the car needs brakes done!
Always good to put a dial gauge on the discs (rotors as they say in USA) to ensure they are running true or no "run out". Most garages dont bother as it takes an extra 15 mins but if your doing a proper job at home its well recommended
Happy Father's day to the man who-for many of us, became a surrogate father who taught us everything we ever needed to know about fixing and maintaining our vehicles, Scotty Kilmer! 🍻
My 2004 Thunderbird with 44,000 miles has original pads and rotors, decided I'm going to change them all myself. North Texas car, hopeful little or no rust will be found.
Scotty, my tip: buy a wood hand screw clamp to squeeze those brake calibers back into their housing. Wood isn't going to scar the metal and you can get sufficient pressure from the clamp.
As a long time toyota tech we had a master set of wheel lock sockets. The tool was always somewhere besides the tool room so we would yell "We Locks!!!" And whoever had them would yell " I've got we locks!!!"
It's been my recent experience in the past maybe 20 years with imported products that its much better to never turn a rotor or drum. Once you do, there's less metal overall and warpage is more prone to occur when they are "shaved" of their original bulk. Found this out many times by have rotors turned and decided that since the price of rotors are relatively inexpensive, $40 each or so, the brake job is worth it in the end and you are good for another 50,000 miles maybe. It's also advisable to always use the new hardware that comes with the pads and as Scotty did, use the brake grease to lube the piston and pad pressure points as well as the hardware slides/pins to keep down the noise and promote smooth actions.
Correct....the amount of weight ( mass) of the brake rotor is less after it's turned...and the "heat-sin"k it then has is less...therefore, even more prone to warp later than before.....
Just be sure to open the tap of the brake fluid container before you push the caliper pistons back with the big wrench or you might just destroy your brake fluid pipes.
I really like the way you suggest tools and maintenance products that you, (the professional), use! I worked on electronics for years and I learned a lot from other Tec's but there's been many times I've blown good money on tools and repair products that II just had to eat!
Even mildly rusty rotors are ok if they aren’t warped. There are ways to get most of the rust off without replacing the rotor. And regarding the rear brakes they are a lot less important because the front ones do all the work. The emegency brake isn’t the rear brake pad. It’s often a drum brake inside the rear hub assembly.
I always keep My locker in the center console, when tire guys asked I told them where it was. Any time I worked on someone else's car that's the first place I check, then the glove box then the spare tire area in the trunk. Bought a car once with wheel locks but no key, no problem, took it to discount tire and they removed them and sold Me a new set for $50.
I had my front brakes done 2 yrs ago. At the garage where i took my car to have the pads put on. The guy never said we can't do the job cause your front rotars are bad. No rotors were fine, brake pads on, everything is good. The back brakes are fine too. They don't need replacenents. Rotor are not in bad shape. Other places won't do your brakes unless you buy new rotors. Stay away from these places.
I always put my wheel lock in the cup holder for them. If you lose yours, stop by your local discount tire. They usually have a good collection of them and you may get lucky.
2 months ago i installed a set of 4 slotted/drilled/vented discs with ceramic carbon fiber pads in my 10th gen king ranch. For the whole roto/hub+pads set i paid $200. My truck has never stopped better.
I'm not a mechanic, and I'm not about to retire, but I can share a pro tip anyway: measure the old pads and check BEFORE ordering new pads - size problem solved before it, as for Scott, became a problem 😁
looks like the way I do it always replace the pads with the rotor's, fun fact, back in the days of drums to discs mid 70s if your breaks squealed it meant you were cool, and your car had discs up front at the least
When I do brakes I do all new pads and rotors all the way around. Don’t have to worry about new pads mismatching with a small warp in the rotor. For the money to me it’s worth it. But Scotty is more frugal than I am.
The RAV4 limited has larger rotors up front than the LE. You always have to tell the parts guy which version you have and make sure he pulled the right parts before you leave the store. The front diameter is either 275mm or 297mm.
Well second time i saw you do brakes and you did not lube the slide pins that the calipers bolt to. That's the main part that should be lubed to ensure the caliper slides back and forth. Brake rotors have a min and max thickness. If they are close or under the min thickness shops have to sell new ones due to liability / legal issues. If they are under the min thickness they will not dissipate heat and cause premature pad ware.
When ever you use the pliers to push back the caliper piston PLEASE ALWAYS unscrew the cap of the brake fluid reservoir first!! The back pressure of pushing back the caliper piston can cause a crack to the fluid reservoir.
Yes it can... I had it happened to me after many brake changes and i found a crack. I was losing brake fluid. Been working on cars for 40 years. You learn many things. Sorry this makes you laugh but its reality.
Clean grease and oil off the braking surfaces, brake pads should be degreased if you get greasy finger prints on them and rotors because they come coated with oil. This will prevent squeaking when you stop. I've done brakes for over 35 years on many different types of vehicles and it is basically the same on pretty much everything. American, Japanese, European it's all about the same. The types of bolts are the main thing that varies. Some are regular bolts while others are allen head or torx- star head. Get a good quality torx or allen head attachment with perfect fit for your ratchet so you don't strip it, because that is a disaster when it happens. Use jack stands while also leaving the jack under the car for safety and chock the wheels so it doesn't roll.
Scotty how about doing the brakes on the new chevy pick ups? With out a scan tool and doing it in sequence the dash lights up like a Christmas tree. LOL
Do not use multi pliers to push in your piston,use a tool that’s fits inside the piston so you don’t damage the outer edge or destroy the rubber that the piston sits inside of.
I have never had an issue with rims. Then again, I don't buy fancy rims and honestly, they tend to get beaten up after a while (I don't care to be honest because it's just a car). If it was a car for "show" like a Mustang, then I might have daily driving rims and then special rims just for show. But on my daily drivers I would just as well have steel rims to be honest (with wheel covers) but I just have the basic factory Toyota alloys. Nothing special. Never locked my wheels. Too much of a hassle. As a reminder, some rotors are held on by screws or small bolts (such as some Hondas) so make sure they aren't held on by something before you start tapping or trying to pound the rotors off. I think this practice is getting to be less and less common, but was back in the late 90's. Some also have pilot holes that you can use to thread a bolt if the rotor gets stuck on the hub which is handy. Now, I believe on some cars, you are supposed to lube the caliper slides/pins if the vehicle has them (some HOndas have them, I don't know about this vehicle but it is something I found on my old HOnda back in the day, the hard way when I forgot to do it -- they just were stiff and didn't release like they were supposed to, so I had to take them apart and lube the slides). Good to probably just check the instructions to see if the brakes have these slides or not. Not all vehicles use them. although don't most vehicles that have rear disc brakes use a drum in brake system for the parking brake, where it has a mini drum under neat the disc that is used for the parking brake? I guess it depends on the model of vehicle....
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I thought it is a bad practice to simply squeeze in the caliper piston on these newer brake systems. Something has been said about forcing the fluid back into the system can cause damage. ?
i took the lockers off and put regular lug nuts on.
We are gathered here to remember the king of youtube automotive/Comedic genius that made us laugh 4 years 🥀
See you tomorrow Scotty... and later today! :P
@SheppardsinthefieldsBethlehem That wasn't my point. I have seen several mechanics state that the fluid should never be forced BACK INTO these newer abs systems. The proper method to collapse the piston, would be to crack the bleeder and push the fluid out of the caliper instead and NOT back up the line into the system.
Shout out to all the fathers (mine included) that taught their children how to change their own brake pads and oil. SO much money saved over the years!
Not just money, it’s good knowledge to have
Started doing my own maintance this year, 15 years of drive later, but better now than never. So much money saved
What was the name of the expensive pads that Scotty likes?
I had UA-cam for that, but I plan to teach my kids as best as I can!
@@DarkForce2024 thanks….that’s what I am telling my mechanic I want
I don't know how many videos of yours I have watched. My dad was a garage mechanic I had the pleasure of working with him for 5 years until his passing in 1971. He helped hundreds of people get their car fixed, sometimes for little or nothing, just to get someone where they needed to go. Thanks for your service. Robert
Do not forget to clean and regrease the caliper slide pins with brake grease if you live in the rust belt.
Do you people understand that you do not see everything that's done in a video?
@@donniev8181 Who are you people? Do you mean people who watch these videos and copy exactly what Scotty is doing because they did not bother to read shop manuals?
@MrPoppyDuck dude, if you think he shows every little detail of the job in a 10 minute video, you're dumber than a bag of hammers! Plus, there's no need to do all of the extra every time you change pads, especially if the pads are wearing evenly and the rotors are in good condition!
Rust belt or not, always clean and lube the pins. It's an extra 30 seconds 🙄
Don't forget the Salt belt too! Rust belt being costal and Salt being midwest.
Scotty gets it done but there is (was) some finer detail points missed! Tip: I often use the old inner pad to push Caliper Piston back in so as not to scar the piston with Pliers Teeth.
Git er done.... AIN'T IT JUST AIN'T IT 😜 lols
Ditto - I was cringing watching him put the adjustable pliers directly on the piston(s). Just use one of the old pads to evenly distribute pressure against the piston AND, as you stated, to protect the piston from damage by the pliers.
Good tip
Or just use a quick clamp making contact with the inside and not the edge...
Bingo... or put a big socket in there, better yet- pushing closer to center helps the piston to align going back in. @@jljackson1983
Be sure to inhale the brake cleaner fumes to enhance your experience
The chlorinated stuff is best for that! 😉
I prefer snorting the dust, myself.
I rip fat sniff before starting all the work, it makes the experience way more fun
Scotty's big secret.
If there's no brake fluid is there something else you can use as a replacement
I usually crack open the cap on the master cylinder before I start
Good advice. Service places are always saying replace the rotors when you get a brake job. They just want the part markup. Scotty is always straight up honest.
Its always good practice to pull and wipe the pins and apply new silicone paste.
Sometimes these are stiff or even seized.
Yeah so many shops don't do that and by the time you start feeling the issues the repair is no longer under warranty.
I never did that for years and never had a problem BUT , then one day I DID have a pin get stuck and I NEVER made that mistake again. It only takes one time to learn a lesson!
@@henryhallmann4282thank God I went to trade school and learned from 23 years ago so I've never had this problem on my own vehicles, but have seen it on others where the pin snapped inside the bracket it was so rusted in there and had to buy a new one and waste time when an extra 30 seconds of lubing the pin would've saved it during the previous brake job. Some people just don't know but most are just lazy and rushing the job!
for sure!
Yes, silicone. Don't use petroleum grease on pins that slide in rubber or they will lock in a few moves. OK for steel on steel.
Also replace the brake hardware and apply brake grease to the pads where they contact the caliper so the pads do not stick.
I never really was interested in the mechanics of cars until I found your channel Scotty. Now I want to become a mechanic…..but all three of my sons are very good ones. I’m trying to get them to watch your channel, because you’re full of all sorts of amazing secrets.
I've always used a C clamp to push the calipers back in. Never had a fancy pair of channel locks. 😅
Yep. C clamp. Works great. Been doing that for 40 years.
I’m with you on the c-clamp. I also leave the old pad in there instead of pressing directly against the piston to avoid damaging it.
You can also use the old pad as a shim to push it in evenly.
The two fella's above me nailed it: use an 8-inch C-clamp, _AND_ the old, about-to-be-replaced brake-pad. Very, very cheap, easy, and effective.
Works better if you take the outer pad off the remount then get a lever in the gap you created works like a dream no special tools
Scotty you should tell the people watching your video . When doing disc brakes after replacing pads and having to push the pistons back into the piston caliper bores so the pad fit. They will have to press the brake peddle to get the pistons back against the pads before driving the car. If they just get in the car and back it out without doing that. When they step on the peddle the car will not stop. Also most rear disc brakes require a special tool the reset the rear brake pistons. Also they need to know the brake reservoir the brake fluid will be lower. If they added fluid when they push the pistons back in the caliper bores. The fluid they added will over flow. I use the reservoir to check my pad wear. If it starts the get lower I know the look at my pads.
One thing I like to do is use the old brake pad when compressing the brake caliper piston.
Just lay it in place then use a c clamp or channel locks and compress it so that the teeth of the channel locks don't score or scratch the piston or the rubber, this is just how my dad taught me and how I have always done it, doesn't take any longer and assures that you don't damage your piston, probably over kill but safety first.
I would have never pushed the piston back in like you did. I have seen them get cockeyed, snap in two, bend. At the very least if I had to use channel locks I would have used the old pad across the piston so I could get in the middle of the piston of course I have the correct tools. Damn nice job Scotty.
I always use the old brake pad & a C-clamp,goes down straight & smooth
Don’t the caliper bolts need that grease as well?
@@modus_operandi2508 I always open them before i remove them. But, to each his own.
be glad you don't have to use one of those hellraiser puzzle cubes.
I have done it that way and never had a problem. But, yeah, it could screw them up. I bought a fairly inexpensive tool for that from Harbor Freight and it works great. It's actually easier to do as well.
If you're only changing pads....no need to remove both the top and bottom 14mm bolts.....just remove the lower one.....loosen the top...and SWING the caliper up and out of the way ( tie down). You have all the access you need to remove and reinstall pads.
Why would you not resurface or change out rotors? Seems like a 1/2 a$s J.O.B.
@@BibW-t5g I've replaced dozens of brake pads and brake shoes on my family cars and have never resurfaced nor changed rotors. Good for you for going the extra mile. To each his own, I guess.
He does these videos to help others learn
@@BibW-t5gif you change pads early enough, you don't need to do that.
@@BibW-t5g Nobody should pay anybody to "resurface" rotors. You can get new ones for $50-$60 each. No reason to trust someone will do as good as factory finish when you could just get new ones for the same price. Nobody is resurfacing rotors for $20.
FORGOT... to grease the brake pad shims/sliders and caliper bolts.
Great video 👍
I need to replace the front pads on my wifes Honda. Thanks for this very practical and well edited demonstration.
So, what's the "SECRET" before you retire, AGAIN, for the 25th time in the last 5 years?
Yet again you.are still watching the good content
@@jaimeramirez-zt9dd Naah, we're still watching the pretty bad content to see if there is some gold nugget of his amazing knowledge since he became an auto mechanic at the age of about 14...
I think his secret was to not buy new rotors unless they’re really bad
😂
Glad to see Scotty is showing ppl the right way with using a torque wrench with the manufacturer recommended torque. You'd be surprised how many mechanics ignore this. If your lucky you might get them to check it.
Said it before and will say it again. LOVE your videos as you say everything, I tell “friends?” Who bring their cars over to my garage for repair. You’re the greatest!❤
Thanks Scotty, this video inpired me to try this myself instead of going to a shop. Great to know how to do this. And Autozone sent me the wrong rotors too.
Thanks again Scotty, not quite as easy for us rookies but, definitely attainable and well worth the savings.
And put on couple of lug nuts on to hold the rotor in place, while finishing the brake job.
Hey Scotty, you didn’t mention about the brake fluid reservoir , checking the level when the pistons are pressed in. Cheers Scotty ..
No need to. You just did announce it! Thanks 🙏.
To be fair; pressing the pistons in isn't going to raise the level that much. Even still, when you press down on the brake, it'll return to normal. Just something he overlooked because it isn't really a concern.
that's exactly how I do the brakes aswell I found using a little copper grease on the hub makes the brake rotors come off a lot easier when you do the job again in future
Check guide pins move freely?
Thanks Scotty. I bought Akebono pads and NAPA premium rotors from NAPA for my RAV 4 Perfect match. Easy installation.
Up here in thr Glorious People's Republic of Canuckistan, that original front rotor would have been consider pristine
Also here in Hawaii
Mine on my 96 K1500 looked pristine too. But they were slightly warped. Just enough to shake when brakes applied. Looks can be deceiving!
@@garykendall1376 Same here; '10 Grand Caravan. I was informed: if your butt shakes, rear. If your hands shake, front. Determined it was front, and wow, so much detail in the construction of the rotor (vs. the marketing spew), and the price difference between the 4 auto parts stores. Had them shipped, and then found that in transit, they were bounced off the concrete more than once. Amazing learning experience even before they went on the axle.
@@garykendall1376 to use the principle "if it's not broke, don't fix it" you can put new pads on and test drive. If there are vibrations, THEN it's time to check the rotors more thoroughly.
Nice, using those pliers. I've been using c-clamps, just don't go beyond gudentight 😂. Always learning something new on every single episode, I appreciate your youtube channel, Boss Scotty 💯% 👍🏼
That looks so simple. I just changed the brakes - rotors, calipers, and brackets - on my F250 because I had a sticky caliper bracket. I am lucky it didn't warp the rotor really. Those brackets were so tight though I had to jack those bolts off there. The rotors weren't too bad to get off, it took a 4x4 and sledge hammer nudge but they were decent, so I had them turned, put a little oil on them and stuck them in the boxes the new ones came in and on a shelf for a later date. That stuff is too expensive to waste. I did the rear ones last year, hubs out. It should be set up good for a few more years. I usually only change pads but 150,000 have passed so I just did it. It was a lot of work for an old woman. It took me 2 days, but I was determined.
Spraying some WD-40 on stuck rusty bolts and letting it sit for a while makes them come off much easier
Maybe I missed but I didn't see you Lube the Slide Pins...
Love your common sense, economical approach to car repair. I learned about rotors a long time ago. They always try to get you turn them which results in them being thinner and warping when they get hot making your brakes worse, requiring more brake work.
It's a scam.
Clean any rust off the hub faces before installing rotors. And put some lube on the pad ears as well.
Obviously not in the rust belt. Up here in MA , you’re lucky to get a vehicle to last 10 years, never mind the brakes.
Fluid Film
NEVER collapse a caliper piston with a pair of channelocks (pump pliers) I had a mechanic at Firestone do that, damage a caliper and between the mechanic and service manager I had to eat rotor and pads.700.00 later (the truck was immobilized so I was stuck) the truck rolled out of there. Had been a long time Firestone customer at another location where the service writer there was an honest guy. Unfortunately where I went for this job evidently was not. I told those crooks if you get this truck going I will never set foot in a Firestone again. Been good for my word for 18 years. Never
I used to do my own brakes too but travel too much now and have found 2 places, one for trouble codes, the other for tires and lube and use them exclusively. Only way I'd pull into a Firestone or other corp store now is to be breaking down as I approached the entrance.
I used a big "C" clamp back in the day to collapse the caliper piston. Catching it on the side like Scotty did sends chills up my spine. For a 50+ year mechanic very vocal and opinionated as he is that is a rookie mistake and could cost the owner 100's of dollars shortly down the road. I know my truck locked up the caliper (working fine before tampered with) within about 2 miles from the ill fated Firestone visit.
Years alone do not equate to skill. I train people how to work on vehicular AC systems. Really amazing how many people are misinformed and by the alleged "experts" in our industry.
Scotty is a good guy, but when you fail to lube or anti seize critical parts, collapse the caliper with a pair of gonzo pump pliers and so forth it makes me question where Scotty was trained and what kind of training he did get?
Yep , use a C clamp was just cringing watching him use channel lock’s.
If the caliper and fluid are good, I pop the cap on the brake fluid reservoir and then I shove a large screw driver in between the caliper and rotor and pry on the caliper until the piston is all the way in. Then take off the caliper.
@@Joe-em3iw This!! I try to compress the piston using the bad pad as a platform to press against. If I can't do it with my big ole screwdriver lever, then I pull out the c-clamp.
Can use the wheel lug nuts to hold the rotor in place while installing the callipers
on all new cheap rotors I put on I do a final slow speed turn on each rotor, this makes a world of difference getting miles out of rotors & pads. Never had to do this for old drums
Have to pump the brakes before starting the car.............put a big sign on your steering wheel so you don't forget.
Don't worry, you'll remember at that first stop light.
Master Craftsman , you make it look easy Scotty, well done.
Scotty you’re a National Treasure. If you do retire, I wish you all the best and hope you enjoy your retirement. Thank you for educating us and I’m glad we have your Videos to refer too.
Do not forget to press the brake pedal several times to set the calipers before you drive off. Otherwise your in for a hell of a scare on your first braking encounter!!
Scotty love your work for years, but this case you missed putting anti-seize on the bolts and the rotors where rotor rides on the hub for the next time the car needs brakes done!
Clean and re-lub the slide pins. Also, wire wheel under the stainless steal slides and light lub..
Always good to put a dial gauge on the discs (rotors as they say in USA) to ensure they are running true or no "run out". Most garages dont bother as it takes an extra 15 mins but if your doing a proper job at home its well recommended
I must have missed the big reveal. Anyway, good luck for your retirement. Thanks for so many informative videos.
That if you tap the brake pedal 42 times in 30 seconds a little key falls into the ashtray and you can unlock an extra 45 horsepower and get 39 mpg.
Happy Father's day to the man who-for many of us, became a surrogate father who taught us everything we ever needed to know about fixing and maintaining our vehicles, Scotty Kilmer! 🍻
After this movie i fell Iam ready to do this myself. Thank You
My 2004 Thunderbird with 44,000 miles has original pads and rotors, decided I'm going to change them all myself. North Texas car, hopeful little or no rust will be found.
Scotty, my tip: buy a wood hand screw clamp to squeeze those brake calibers back into their housing. Wood isn't going to scar the metal and you can get sufficient pressure from the clamp.
As a long time toyota tech we had a master set of wheel lock sockets. The tool was always somewhere besides the tool room so we would yell "We Locks!!!" And whoever had them would yell " I've got we locks!!!"
C clamp with the old pad on the piston
It's been my recent experience in the past maybe 20 years with imported products that its much better to never turn a rotor or drum. Once you do, there's less metal overall and warpage is more prone to occur when they are "shaved" of their original bulk. Found this out many times by have rotors turned and decided that since the price of rotors are relatively inexpensive, $40 each or so, the brake job is worth it in the end and you are good for another 50,000 miles maybe. It's also advisable to always use the new hardware that comes with the pads and as Scotty did, use the brake grease to lube the piston and pad pressure points as well as the hardware slides/pins to keep down the noise and promote smooth actions.
Correct....the amount of weight ( mass) of the brake rotor is less after it's turned...and the "heat-sin"k it then has is less...therefore, even more prone to warp later than before.....
Just be sure to open the tap of the brake fluid container before you push the caliper pistons back with the big wrench or you might just destroy your brake fluid pipes.
Rust belt cars be coming back to this guy.
And there you have it!
Push back the rear caliper pistons on a 2018+ Equinox without opening the bleeders, and you will be buying, and programming a new ABS module.......
Shout out to step-father's who stepped up where real father's failed. Been showing my step-son car / motorcycle stuff since he was 6.
Amen brother 🎉
You are the real father
I really like the way you suggest tools and maintenance products that you, (the professional), use! I worked on electronics for years and I learned a lot from other Tec's but there's been many times I've blown good money on tools and repair products that II just had to eat!
Even mildly rusty rotors are ok if they aren’t warped. There are ways to get most of the rust off without replacing the rotor. And regarding the rear brakes they are a lot less important because the front ones do all the work. The emegency brake isn’t the rear brake pad. It’s often a drum brake inside the rear hub assembly.
Scotty needs to put the 'Brakes' on before he blows a gasket 😂
He’s relying on you/ us to round out the details, otherwise vid is too long.
So you didn’t wanna tell us, the locker was in the glove box after looking all over the back 😂😂😂
Always the 2nd place to look! 😆
Scotty is the best man in the whole world.
"It's not that hard." Nothing's hard if you know what you're doing!
Or when someone else does it!
I always keep My locker in the center console, when tire guys asked I told them where it was.
Any time I worked on someone else's car that's the first place I check, then the glove box then the spare tire area in the trunk.
Bought a car once with wheel locks but no key, no problem, took it to discount tire and they removed them and sold Me a new set for $50.
I had my front brakes done 2 yrs ago. At the garage where i took my car to have the pads put on. The guy never said we can't do the job cause your front rotars are bad. No rotors were fine, brake pads on, everything is good. The back brakes are fine too. They don't need replacenents. Rotor are not in bad shape. Other places won't do your brakes unless you buy new rotors. Stay away from these places.
Those old rotors looked fine to me. What about the calipers?? How many miles on car? The calipers might have needed work.
People rarely steal just the rims anymore so better yet, just get rid of the locks.
Thank you, Scotty!!
I always put my wheel lock in the cup holder for them. If you lose yours, stop by your local discount tire. They usually have a good collection of them and you may get lucky.
Great job Scottie!!!
I _JUST_ changed the brakes on my wife's 2012 Toyota Sienna, and I was surprised to see that the bake brakes were both drum-brakes _AND_ disk-brakes.
I have a 20 year old Jetta, still has the factory rotors
Careful squeezing the piston back in. If it’s not nice and straight or if the pliers cause it to tilt it will jam.
The wrong brakes was probably the old case of "submodel doesn't matter" when indeed it did.
Thank you for sharing Sir Scotty.
2 months ago i installed a set of 4 slotted/drilled/vented discs with ceramic carbon fiber pads in my 10th gen king ranch. For the whole roto/hub+pads set i paid $200. My truck has never stopped better.
I'm not a mechanic, and I'm not about to retire, but I can share a pro tip anyway: measure the old pads and check BEFORE ordering new pads - size problem solved before it, as for Scott, became a problem 😁
Will be sad to see you go..... Scotty in Alabama 😎
looks like the way I do it always replace the pads with the rotor's, fun fact, back in the days of drums to discs mid 70s if your breaks squealed it meant you were cool, and your car had discs up front at the least
When I do brakes I do all new pads and rotors all the way around. Don’t have to worry about new pads mismatching with a small warp in the rotor. For the money to me it’s worth it. But Scotty is more frugal than I am.
The RAV4 limited has larger rotors up front than the LE. You always have to tell the parts guy which version you have and make sure he pulled the right parts before you leave the store. The front diameter is either 275mm or 297mm.
You gotta adjust those inner ebrake in through the hole to get those back brakes off sometimes
My 2005 Camry XLE has larger rotors than other models of the same year. Autozone got mine wrong, too. Their parts computer isn't the best.😊😊😊
Scotty, I learn many things from your videos ❤😊
Should clean hub and rotor mating surfaces lots of debris on there
correct..those rotors will pulsate for sure without removing the rust on the hub
Lots of good advice. Sounds like you've done a brake job or two, Scotty. 👍👍👍
Great video Scotty, thanks! Happy Fathers Day! (A little early, but this is definitely a "Dad" video).
Nice video, as usual. Torque limiting extensions & an impact make for a quicker job.
Ed c
To be honest the front rotors looked pretty good as well.
For sure.
Yes but usually the inside/other side of the rotor rusts faster than the outside
Well second time i saw you do brakes and you did not lube the slide pins that the calipers bolt to. That's the main part that should be lubed to ensure the caliper slides back and forth. Brake rotors have a min and max thickness. If they are close or under the min thickness shops have to sell new ones due to liability / legal issues. If they are under the min thickness they will not dissipate heat and cause premature pad ware.
I wouldn't recommend using the impact on the locker lug.
When ever you use the pliers to push back the caliper piston PLEASE ALWAYS unscrew the cap of the brake fluid reservoir first!! The back pressure of pushing back the caliper piston can cause a crack to the fluid reservoir.
LOL WHAT!!!! No it won't 🤦🏽♂️🙄
Yes it can... I had it happened to me after many brake changes and i found a crack. I was losing brake fluid. Been working on cars for 40 years. You learn many things. Sorry this makes you laugh but its reality.
@@ptaka69 Noted. Thanks sir.
Ahh.... no...the fluid reservoir is vented.....
@@ptaka69 ...it wasn't caused by the reason you give.....
Just did my friends front and back brakes pads 2016 Subaru east job!
Lisle makes a good caliper piston pusher tool that is inexpensive.
Clean grease and oil off the braking surfaces, brake pads should be degreased if you get greasy finger prints on them and rotors because they come coated with oil. This will prevent squeaking when you stop.
I've done brakes for over 35 years on many different types of vehicles and it is basically the same on pretty much everything. American, Japanese, European it's all about the same. The types of bolts are the main thing that varies. Some are regular bolts while others are allen head or torx- star head. Get a good quality torx or allen head attachment with perfect fit for your ratchet so you don't strip it, because that is a disaster when it happens.
Use jack stands while also leaving the jack under the car for safety and chock the wheels so it doesn't roll.
Scotty, do you ever use anti-seize on the hub or between the rotor and the wheel to prevent that problem of it all being rusted-on?
Scotty how about doing the brakes on the new
chevy pick ups? With out a scan tool and doing it in sequence the dash lights up like a Christmas tree. LOL
Thanks for sharing your knowledge.
Do not use multi pliers to push in your piston,use a tool that’s fits inside the piston so you don’t damage the outer edge or destroy the rubber that the piston sits inside of.
I have never had an issue with rims. Then again, I don't buy fancy rims and honestly, they tend to get beaten up after a while (I don't care to be honest because it's just a car). If it was a car for "show" like a Mustang, then I might have daily driving rims and then special rims just for show. But on my daily drivers I would just as well have steel rims to be honest (with wheel covers) but I just have the basic factory Toyota alloys. Nothing special. Never locked my wheels. Too much of a hassle.
As a reminder, some rotors are held on by screws or small bolts (such as some Hondas) so make sure they aren't held on by something before you start tapping or trying to pound the rotors off. I think this practice is getting to be less and less common, but was back in the late 90's. Some also have pilot holes that you can use to thread a bolt if the rotor gets stuck on the hub which is handy.
Now, I believe on some cars, you are supposed to lube the caliper slides/pins if the vehicle has them (some HOndas have them, I don't know about this vehicle but it is something I found on my old HOnda back in the day, the hard way when I forgot to do it -- they just were stiff and didn't release like they were supposed to, so I had to take them apart and lube the slides). Good to probably just check the instructions to see if the brakes have these slides or not. Not all vehicles use them.
although don't most vehicles that have rear disc brakes use a drum in brake system for the parking brake, where it has a mini drum under neat the disc that is used for the parking brake? I guess it depends on the model of vehicle....