LEGO 2 Stroke Motor (With real COMBUSTION) attempt
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- Опубліковано 20 лют 2018
- If you have anymore questions and details concerning this project please leave them in the comment section below.
Song: beat gangsta rap hard by riza penjoel - Авто та транспорт
I'm glad someone finally did this
Amen
An air duster is actually CO2. its possible that it is one of the reason why it is not working
Pascal Robert no it isn't
Yes I was just thinking that. Infact I just looked on mine and it is not got any oxygen in it
A typical air duster uses a hydrofluorocarbon such as 1,1,1,2 tetrafluoroethane. Combustibility is low, and the expelled gas is not an oxidizer.
KENARDO that was 30 years ago that's illigal using g hydrophobic carbob
You're thinking of Chlorofluorocarbons. Hydrofluorocarbons are still widely used. It's only been recently that HFCs have started to be replaced in these dusters, but it's still common. The can on my desk is 1,1,1,2 tetrafluoroethane.
Looks like you need to build a Lego carburetor now.
I was about to say something like that. He needs better fuel air ratio and if the flywheel isn’t heavy enough then heavier flywheel. Probably should mess with timings a little also with spark. Also better spark plug.
Looks like you're not getting compression. You'll get explosions, but it's probably leaking around the piston.
Nice design. Hope to see more!
If it's going pretty fast it cranking at a good speed, we get good compression
Mad brick not always I had a weed whacker spin at high speeds and fire but I didn't have enough compression so it didn't run and I took it apart and found it had a large gash along the cylender
Mad Brick Mike do you have a old carburetor or a junkyard carburetor the way air and gas com to geter and or like lawn mower carburetor
Mad Brick a car with a bad head gasket can have bad comression and run. Just because it fires doesnt nessicarily mean it has good compression. You need a way to make a seal on the piston and a way to make sure that there is nothing escaping through the sides (the lego bricks)
Mad Brick you can't be sure you have compression until you get a pressure meter
Is that Bricks & Stratton?
Suruaku awesome
TowmaX its a pun
No it’s a Cummins gasoline injected v10
Mitäs vittua
TowmaX r/wooosh
Question is.
Will it fit in my Honda?
Dell Conagher sure, but dont have VTEC
altoappleDE No need for VTEC, this one got LEGOTEC.
Mass production will be soon after testing.
Put it in a chevy! It will run better than whatever was originally in it.
Lol
1. Is the air/fuel ratio calculated properly?
2. Is the spark timing set up accurately?
3. The square shape of the piston is far from efficient for this, circular is the best.
4. Lack of compression.
5. Lack of a flywheel wont keep the engine running as there is barely any mass spinning.
6. How would you manage engine speed without a carburetor?
7. Where is the exhaust going?
Cool project non-the-less :D
"Bobby get the propane"
propane selling simulator!
*This Is The No Coal Zone*
I want to see this engine running
Me too:(
Same
You need proper compression, which this solution just can't provide. Even a few dozen psi would be enough.
MonsterWithConscience what they need to do is get some tiny washers for piston rings, round pistons so it'll finally get acceptable compression, get some oil in the cylinder to boost those numbers, and it should actually work
chasebh89 a layer of jb weld on the piston head and along the cylinder walls Isn't a bad idea either to raise compression
Grew up as a tuner, so do I need to begin explaining just how difficult and intricate a process it would be to provide forced induction to a very low displacement motor made from legos, which leaks horrifically, has no lubrication, fuel supply, coolant system (passive nor active) and of course has an abysmal capacity to cycle due to its lack of compression? I'm trying to be brief, but I could keep going...
Awesome idea. I feel like it’s missing compression, carburetor to mix fuel and air consistently, and be sure the ignition isn’t till the piston is going down from the compression stroke
It's definitely missing compression, the carburetor could be replaced by injection since that is easier on a lego engine
But yeah ignition timing still needs to be worked on
If the creator sees this, I suggest you go to a CnC workshop amd forge your own lego pieces out of steel if you can for the piston and the crankshaft, it will make it run better
This is why I subbed
Back pressure. 2 strokes need lots of it. Try to get a tuned pipe for the exhaust and it will work much better
I run nitro rcs which have much smaller 2 strokes so I'm fairly used to the problems. Definitely try put a carb on it. Also, try to put a groove around the piston and a simple o-ring around it to boost compression
Any o ring will cause too much Friction and compression that it will hinder the motors ability to turn itself.
Compression and backpressure is the least problem. If you would just get the a/f mixture right, it should at least produce some decent bangs.
Did you know there are already mini engine parts made by lego? The little pistons and cylinders if you know what I mean? You could definitely try to run that off real combustion as well
Mad Brick use a bit of 3in1 or veggie oil or similar to lube the o ring
Very cool, awesome idea!
Please continue and make it better, make it work. That would be very satisfying :D Keep it up, waiting for other part :D
Not too often you get to say "Ignition: On" With a lego motor :D
Cool stuff, hopefully you get it to work
Now this is what kids should be doing these days, instead of all that time on social media, that's really impressive that you guys got everything sealed up good, and actuly got it to fire
Amen.
Best of 2018 Congrats
Holy crap that is amazing
I’ve been waiting for someone to do this forever
Excellent fucking video! You guys are awesome. Seriously, thank you.
Your forgetting one major thing. 2 strokes don't just run petrol, but they run a petrol/oil mixture. The oil helps lubricate but also helps seal the cylinder. Typical butane and lighter fluid won't work without a correct metering device like a carburettor, you need to aim for a decent air fuel ratio, 14:1 should do, perhaps 13:1 would be better? That's 13 parts air to 1 part fuel, you don't need as much fuel as you may think. I'd suggest getting a throttle/carb unit from a nitro RC car and use a little 2 stroke oil in the mix
You could (In theory) even make a primitive carb out of lego bricks; Where you have a tank of fuel and some pipes that are open to the air that feed to below the surface of the fuel, and some pipes that are above the fuel that feed into the combustion chamber. The piston pulls a vacuum, which sucks air through the fuel and in the process mixing it with some of the vapors. Not perfect by any means but it can work
soulblood33x the main issue is getting the mixture right. Carbs work on a Venturi system whereby you have 3 chambers in the carb, wide narrow and wide in that order. It's done so that the vacuum drawn increases the air velocity into the narrow part of the carb thus pulling through fuel and vapourising it at the same time. Nitro RC fuel would be best choice for this with perhaps a little extra oil
These are all great ideas! Thanks, but we had really thick viscosity oil that did a good job at sealing, but if the compression is too high, these weightless bricks won't have the intertidal to turn themselves and keep the cycle going
Mad Brick then you need a larger flywheel. Why do you think typical pistons in an engine are made of aluminium? For lightness. It's only the piston rings that are made from a high carbon springy steel to seal.
Sounds good.
Please don’t give up on it I wanna see it work in the future
This is cool. I wanna see it run. Subbed.
Way more than awesome
Please don’t give up! We’re all craving to see this LEGO engine running. also, the engine is missing a bunch of qualities that your typical two stroke might have. But I really think the huge issue is lubrication and compression. I would recommend getting a meter to look at how much pressure you’re building up. One way to test if the compression isn’t complete is two try to crank the engine whilst covering the exhaust. also remember to make sure that the whole engine (including the gas tank or whatever you might use) is sealed and pressurized. Anyway, crank the engine whilst covering the exhaust and it should be hard to crank after a couple of turns or it won’t turn at all. Try it out and best of luck :)
This is so cool
Sooooo cooool!
Even though it didn't work it was interesting to see. Nice design. Would like to see it running
I love it tho I've wanted to see this for the longest
I've got a 4 stroke I've been working on. It's been an on-and-off project. I think rather than doing an ohv as I had originally planned I will go for a flat head design as it will be simpler and stronger on a small scale engine built from LEGOS
very interesting job,i want to try something similar
Mechanically it looks sound, you may have issues with setting up the timing of the spark. From what I can see the issues are the flow of fuel and air, the exhaust, and the timing of the spark. A few minor changes would fix all of that. However your max rpm would only be around a few hundred rpms as the unit would probably explode at faster speeds.
Finally someone invents an actual Lego combustion engine
Keep it going
I Like how the Video Starts and the engine Starts burning
In the first Test it looks like the engine Sparks to early because the gears where actually turning backwards for a small bit when combustion accrued. So maybe the timing is actually what’s setting you back
Also you don’t Need a intake valve in your model if the piston is able to seal the intake inlet by it self
You can see what I mean in your animation too, not as well as in others but you can see it
Im attempting this my self right now, im done with the crank case, cylinder, piston and the assembly, but i need to glue some parts and make a valve for the intake. Im kind of copying the design from my moped.
Holy shit real gas
May I ask how exactly you made the spark mechanism, more specifically the part of it that's inside the cylinder?
Its just two wires not touching.
Will are you stupid ?
@@F6garage late response ; )
Jan Thomas prins yeah I know but I still couldn't leave it. Lol
1:23 Buddy, you're a boy, make a big noise
Playing in the street, gonna be a big man someday...
I’ve made a pneumatic LEGO engine using a similar design to this I think I’ll try make a 2 stroke engine like this. This is a great design and is super cool.
According to my calculations and many years on the engines, this happens to me that if you want to start this engine you have to hold that deodorant so it spouts into the suction channel then it grabs you when you scatter it just a bit so it escapes you through the exhaust channel because when the fuel is pushed the exhaust duct is open and exhaust so that more than half of the fuel escapes you out
Dont give up on this please!!!
nice !!! :-D
This is very creative and inspired me to make something alike in the future, what did you use as igniter? And what if you used car fuel like diesel or maybe LPG?
Advice: You need the piston to be set just before it combusts. Of you do that as the piston is almost up it combusts and then pushes the piston back down causing Rotation. I'd also recommend do vavles next too the piston adjust timing and make sure it's sealed.
Can you make a step by step tutorial on what you need to make this or how to make it
Awsome dude I’m doing this all u need us some compression and oil on the piston with air mixed with axe and it will be running no time
Getting the air fuel ratio correct is going to be important to get it to run, as is stuffing as much as possible into the cylinder prior to the port being covered.
In a regular 2 stroke, the use of that transfer port is crucial as the downward stroke of the piston creates pressure in crankcase area to force the mixture up via the transfer posts to the cylinder.
Your blowing (mainly) non combustible gas and fuel in the side port is going to make it difficult to run.
Perhaps you could make a second transfer tube on the other side of the cylinder and then a fuel mixing device of some kind where you can accurately set the mixtures will help you a lot.
Well now I want to make a sugar rocket with Lego casing.
Now I know why the spin the the props on planes to get them going.
Dont stop!! Try and try
I am a self taught automotives engineer and I Love this cute creation of a 2 stroke similar to mine
you need a carb. get some of those round lego bits, put them together, and rill a small hole through the bottom middle ways, then push and glue a small hollow tube up until its just above flush with the tube. stick the other side of the tube in a jar of fuel. you also need compression.
HOW DID U MAKE IT. u should make a video talking about were u got the parts and how u made it
Dragon gamer he got the parts from good will
Man, it looked like would start up a couple of times. Don’t quit, but be careful. I want to see a V-12 version once you get it running; boosted with a Lego turbo!
Hah maybe one day
The check valve is the intake on a 2 stroke the piston coming down puts mix under pressure and through the transfer pipe
looks like a mix of timing and compression adjustments needed
This is the future
on the downstroke the piston compresses the air fuel mixture in the crank case, so maybe there was an air leak in the crank case.
I want to see this thing running. I got a few ideas. I work on engines all the time and it's literally my life. You have some good ideas, but the transfer port is meant to be sealed off. And the fuel is meant to be on the other side of the check valve. When the piston goes up, it draws air and fuel through the check valve. When the piston comes down it pushes all the air and fuel up through the transfer port into the top end so that that spark can ignite it. As far as fuel goes, the starter fluid is way more combustible than the axe body spray. I'd stick to the starter fluid.
You may not me an engineer but to create that you definitely have to be a Lego engineer
To get compression you can put some thick oil on the piston head, won’t last but it will work
i have good bottom end suction for the fuel but i don't know the "spark plug" gap
Longer hollow lighter piston. Lighter flywheel. Advance ignition timing. Add a bit of oil when cranking so the piston will seal a bit better. Crank faster. Good luck guys!
it has potential
Also spark needs to be x amount befor top dead centre if to late it will run backwards
Simple vapour carb jam jar pipe into fuel outlet to check valve this pipe is close to top of lid and not in the fuel speed is controlled by air flow into jar
You can use a butane torch. It has a nozzle that inject fuel and air at the proper mixture. Try sticking it in!
YES! We're just cheap. We will soon
Please make a second part
Keep on trying. Its a cool project.
The check that was where the few were supposed to come in at those are called reads 90% of two shots have them except for some weed eaters and some chainsaws
They have good compression???
The piston can suck air but there should be a delay before the valve opens so air could go faster in because of vacuum effect
100th like, try a carberuator
Not enough suction to create low pressure
If there is no oil you don't need a transfer port. You could just go straight into the combustion chamber like as the oil mainly lubes the crank and connecting rod
Air duster is non-flammable. The mixture for butane combustion is 82% air (that's 21% oxygen) and 12% butane or propane. You can vary a couple percentages, but not much more
Maybe you guys could use some kind of oil to make a seal between the piston and the cylinder for better compression, also i would go out and get a proper oxygen filled bottle, its questionable whether or not the bottle of air actually has oxygen in it
A more balanced flywheel will be a lot easier to handle, and you may want to advance the ignition timing closer to top dead center. (but still after TDC) Probably so by giving the breaker points less travel. the piston should ideally have a great seal to be able to displace the mix from the crank case through the transfer passage, rather than around the piston, but it's understandably hard to make an engine-grade seal with Legos. the transfer passage is probably larger than nessecary, and you could likely give it a better integration to the block
Just put some minirol oil in the crankcase to lubricate the moving parts and also seall the piston to the cylinder walls for an engine to work you need fuel, air, compression, and spark if you are not running dessl if you do not gave one of these you might get it to ignite but not burn properly also if you put the electrodes for the spark deeper in the combination chamber you might have got it to run
Any compression is good it dose not nead to be a psi it can be 0.01psi and that will be enough compression for that aplication I know you are not looking for efficiency that's why the compression can be so low
Zinc mixed adhesive that can be electroplated, so coating legos with metal might give better resilience.
the compression is too low you have to crank it faster to get it running at that compression
Believe it or not, if the compression is too high the weightless bricks don't have intertia to keep turning themselves.
Mad Brick give a fly wheel
You said weed wacker lol you must live in the north lol great videos brother keep doing what your doing!
Weed eater*
In the video he literally said he lives in New York... ya, no shit.
You should get a Lego motor and run it at a night rpm and leave it until it melts or kills it's self
Check the spark timing, setting so it goes off about 20-75 milliseconds into its downward stroke might get you somewhere
I have a terrible idea that might work. You can heat alcohol to a vapor and store that in one of those pump sray bottles for cooking oil. Obviously it is dangerous to store air and fuel premixed. This would create a more consistent mixture and you can still lean out the mixture by pumping more air into the bottle.
try putting gasket sealer on the walls of the cylinder so that any compression developed doesnt leak through the cracks of the bricks, also put some viton rings on the piston to make sure you are developing compression. Also, you have to get that spark more consistant. i noticed that the timing isnt consistant and wont always ignite the fuel at the correct timing. Lastly, make sure that the exhaust port is decently sized so that the efficiency is good, too small and exhaust gasses will bog it down, to big and it wont maintain compression. and like others are saying, check the fuel/air ratio, compression ratio etc.
How do you make it spark and can you make a youtube video of how to make it
I wonder if a rotary will work
Think you could clean it and wait for warmer temperatures to try again? I’m really hopeful for this.
I would try making a new ignition because if you have fuel and air the only thing left is spark
Keep triyng (im from brazil sorry my english
Since you don’t have compression I would try using forces induction instead. Try using an air compressor to supply air
Lol good job
You flooded the motor in short...undo the head let it all dry out. But you guys are on the right track just need to find a way to adjust the air fuel mixture. Once it gets going you don't need to keep priming the motor with every restart. Also if you can find the compression stroke that would be the ideal turn to spin your manual crank. Only time you need to prime a motor only if you hadn't used the thing in about two weeks to a month+. I'm still giving you a thumbs up for making a successful lego lawnmower motor in the beginning. Good Job!
Yeah, we didn't really think about the stroke of the piston, we just used the stroke convenient in building with legos, but thanks for the insight, hopefully with works but it's too late to make major modifications.
You could get a better mixture of fuel and oxygen if you can add or build a carburetor for it
Even if it might work the overall loss in energy will probably be to high to make more than two or three explosions. And there are plenty of places where energy is lost here. Still an interesting idea