This is exactly what i have been looking for last several days to understand how to finish the first step and laminate flooring upstairs. By clearly showing the difference in overlapping and flush satire nose, now i understand how to complete my job.
This is exactly what I was looking for a week ago when I did my stair nose...looks like I did it right. Your videos made my recent LVP install a breeze. I used your layout method starting in my hallway and then transferring the starting line to the front wall and screwing scraps at the joints. It stayed square throughout and I got a nice wide plank on both sides of my hallway. Thank you for your great work and very informative videos!!!
You have helped me immensely!I've done a cpl small home jobs that were "ok". My last 2 look 100% and I know are solid bcuz of your guidance. THANK YOU!
Hey Joe I was just wondering if you have any videos actually doing the rest of the stairs and not just the nose. Thank you for all your hard work Joe! You’re the best!
Thanks so much for these instructional videos. I am going to attempt a set of stairs and the second floor of a two story house. Watching these videos is a great boost of confidence. If you ever get a chance to do a set of stairs that are open on one end, please post a video of your method of capping the stair end.
Just had my floor guy finish doing three rooms with laminate planks and we need to finish the to of the stairs with a type of bull nose. Your video answered my questions. Tomorrow we are going to the flooring store to find something that works. Thank you for an informative video.
Can you show me how to reverse a stair nose for a finish look on the edge? Thank you for your willingness to help/look at specific situations. Love the testimony at the end, too!
Probably good to mention that you did a dry fit on the pieces before gluing them. I really enjoy all your videos I’ve seen so far. Getting ready to do a big job. Been a painting contractor 30 years. Appreciate how you teach things. Feeling more confident to do my new house with LVP
Great VDO… I’ve been looking for this vinyl stairs installation since my contractor used metal stair noses for cheaper and short cut version without telling us before. I’ll show them your UA-cam! Thank you
Thank you so much. Great job on explaining the details to the "new homeowner 101" peeps like us! Very helpful to be able to speak more knowledgably to my contractor. Also what material to purchase. Thanks again!
Hey Joe, I am working on my LVP treads, just finished cutting everything and it’s nice and tight fit, very happy, I am ready to glue down, and I am wondering if it is OK to glue the LVP with the attached underlayment pad to the existing stairs or do I need to somehow tear it off? Let me know your thoughts; product is adura max.
In fact, all your videos are good and interesting, but I hope that you will make videos on how to maintain the stairs, repacking and dyeing again because the videos on this topic are few and thank you
My entire upstairs is lvp and the currently installed flush stair nose is coming loose and floors are lifting. Contractor is suggesting to install over lap stair nose just like you, BUT they want to rip out and replace only the planks butting up to the new nose. Won't that mess up the structural integrity of the floor that's running the entire upstairs with no transitions? Please help!!
Have been a subscriber and watched all you video's and you have helped me immensely, even answering my questions in the comment section. Big Thanks from the state of Maine. Am into a situation where my Kardean glue down LVT is ending or transitioning into a 5' wide one stair sunken living room where both rooms (kitchen and LR) have the same LVT installed. Previously the stair and 2 risers were covered with rug. Because I do not want guests to trip, as well as believe it would look better, I would like real wood tread and risers in a different wood grain and color to highlight the step. Wanted your opinion on a 3" wide oak stair nosing, flush mount with a groove and spline installed at beginning of stairs. Then continue with and oak riser to the 1 oak tread and end with an oak riser. From there the LVT starts in the sunken LR. I have most all tools and can make a nosing from rough lumber as I will do with the 1 tread. So I am not limited to using what is offered pre-made. Again Thanks for putting your work out there for all to enjoy and learn from. edit: in this video you decided to use same color stair nose as floor as opposed to an oak stair nose that would match the oak stairs. I am no designer and not convinced how it would have looked with stair nose same color of stairs. Also I would like to make my stair nose much wider than the one you used or offered pre-made. Maybe you can add your opinion as it is same question I am having trouble deciding. I will add that in your case anyone ( including guests) would not have a problem tripping because it is obvious there are stairs there. In my case I am trying to highlight a trip hazard and reason for my choice to have it same as the stair. Maybe? Maybe not? Again, looking for a professional opinion.
So.. I'm thinking about custom bending a plank for each of my stairs and actually fabricating the nosing. The edge of the step is square and extends past the tread approximately an inch and a half. I've been seeing people heat the plank and form it to the shape of the nose. Then connect to the tread plank to the nose plank and glue it all in place. I was also going to remove the padding before all of this. Do you know what I mean? Have you ever tried something like this? What are your thoughts?
Just like everyone says. This is exactly the video i was looking for. So nicely explained and also the website is well done. Many thanks for taking the time in making this educational and step by step video. I was stuck at this step for two weeks. I have everything i need to know with the help of your video. Can you add how to cut (flush to the riser) an existing nosing at the topmost stair which has that curved nosing with a jigsaw or reciprocating saw and any challenges?
Thanks for this video it definitely will help me. I was told I have to install the stair nose first then go from there in order to keep everything straight. I guess that isn’t true?
That is not true... Here is a video that shows how to start and several other tips. I also have a few more videos that will help you! ua-cam.com/video/6eZHHSzI7Qo/v-deo.html
I purchased the style of stair nose in this video. Is using a nail gun just as safe as screwing down the nose? Also, are the nails visible? I worry that if I screw down, I won't find matching color putty to fill the countersink screw holes.
I'm also planning on replacing the carpeting on the stairs, but am installing the laminate first. Do you have to wait until the carpeting is replaced before installing the stair nose?
Hi just new in your channel, we are trying to DIY/ upgrade our flooring as well as the stairs, question: do we have to remove the existing laminate in the stairs? Thanks in advance!😊
How is glueing those thin pieces at the end any different then doing a flush stair nose. Won’t it still eliminate the expansion gab? Thanks for all your videos they help a ton.
@@SoThatsHowYouDoThat The expansion joint should be between the shims/nosing base and the plank flooring. The lip is made to cover the expansion joint, but there is none here because you pushed the shims up tight to the field pieces.
I understand the concept of the nose you used but what’s wrong with using a flush nose so there’s no kind of lip sticking up. I’m assuming they do make flush stair nose ? Just wondering cuz I’m new to plank flooring. Thanks
i enjoyed your video. I do have a question and hope you have time for an answer. I have installed Shaw Flooring Floorte Pro series V235700296 vinyl planks in the top floor of our house. We have stairs that go to the basement and they are carpeted and I am going to leave the stairs alone. The problem is Shaw says they only offer flush mounted stair nose and so now what do I do? How am I supposed to now, install a flush mount stair nose. any help is appreciated.
Thank you so much for this man. Question: I am doing a laminate floor on a concrete slab. Can the bull nose to the garage from the edge of the pad be handled with just the PL400? Or should i attempt to shoot concrete screws into the slab to better hold the bull nose?
I have concrete floor that i wanna install LVP with 1 concrete step stairs, any video or suggestions on what I should do with this stairs? Thanks for your time 🙏
Thanks for recording/publishing this! I'm trying to tile an entry-way/foyer, and it transitions to some stairs going up and down -- for the stairs going down, I have a 'transition' strip to match the wood treads -- I just am not sure how to work that with the tile, hardie-backer board, mortar, and any metal transition strip -- do you have a video that deals with that?
Awesome video and perfect timing! I am getting ready to install the same stair nosing. Question: is installing laminate tread over exiting laminate tread an option? Or should I just tear the old ones off? Just asking because with the adhesive used in the existing laminate treads I’m sure ill damage the subfloor/plywood. Thanks again for the great video!
What if your planks in the hallway are going sideways then they can't seperate at the seam away from the nosing right because they're going the other way ? so if I glue a L shape nosing that I made by bending a vinyl plank to create the matching nosing to the top of what would be the side of the plank then it will hang over the nosing that's already there because there's carpet runner on the stairs that would be fine right with a bunch of P.L premium adhesive tapes off to dry for a day or 2?
Thank you this was very informative. My stair nose is getting a bit loose so I was told to use gorilla wood glue and nails. Does that sound ok? I also don’t have nail gun, would a hammer be okay?
You're such a great guy. Thanks for your time in teaching this. I do have a question for you... I will be going over a little brick landing and brick steps leading to a brick floor... Will I be just gluing my laminate down to the riser and the tread?
To create a flush transition, I was thinking of gluing the tongue of the first laminate floor board to a groove in the stair tread. The rest of the flooring would attach and float as usual. ???
My contractor put floating laminate flooring in and glue the laminate to the stair treads and risers. He used overlapping nose on every stair And I Hate It ! The hump on every stair nose is very uncomfortable to walk on. So I'm in the process of pulling it apart and installing flush nosing myself.
The flooring I'm using doesn't have a flush mount option. I'd like to carry the same plank down the stairs. Can I use an overlap stair nose on the individual steps (assuming I cut off the stairnose on the tread first) or is that going to be weird having a small lip at the front of every step?
Is this the same installation for 3/8 inch engineered hardwood? I have a stairwell where we layed floor at the top and then have to install a new railing to the side of the stairwell because it is open. Its been difficult to find the right pieces to match everything up.
So basically it has to be overlapping for the top step because the landing boards there need room to expand. But, on the rest of the steps, they will be glued in place so can be flush mounted? It would have been good to do the next step down showing the flush mount process.
This is good but I have a really tough stair transition that I'm struggling to figure out how to fit the stair nose to. Instead of the stair nose ending like what is in the video. the top stair connects to walls that are opening up to a room that has about 43-45 degree angle Think stopsign shape and the stairs going down are heading towards the middle of the sign). How do I do an overlapping stairnose and cut around the wall trim wihile having edge of the stair nose wider than the top landing?
I want to install LVP in my patio, where I have two level concrete slab. The lower slab is about 5 inches lower than other. Thinking to do the same you did here in this video on stair. Should I use the same glue to bond it ? Nail wouldn't work as there is concrete slab underneath. Any advise? Thanks.
Do you remove the padded backing on the vinyl pieces prior to installation on the stairs. Having to finish up the project myself due to installers wanting to nail everything down
Hi Joe thank you for all the information God bless you. The 1st step bull noses doesn't seem secure id i cut the bullnose off leaving about an inch remaining with a big gap between the subfloor and the bullnose...any suggestions would it be stable if I do that...BTW installing vinyl on stairs and also uostairs
I think Vinyl, Laminate, and hardwood are all dangerous on stairs. I know carpets are dirty. I think using a easily replaceable carpet runner may be the best way to go. You only have to fall down from a slippery stairs once to realize carpet is the safest option. Since permanent carpet is too hard to replace therefore I recommend a runner option.
Hi, nice video. Have a question , I built a loft and now Idk what to use at the end of the laminated floor and I’m planing to install a handrail at the edge too. What is your advice? Thxs
Hello, our stairs already had stair nose but 2-3 of them come off already, my son is always in a hurry and running in the stairs then stair nose will just come off, how do I put it back, do I need to remove the old dried glue. The installer said he will fix it but it’s more than a month now and no show. I asked him what he used here and said liquid nail, is that good? Please advise, thank you
I have quite a large bullnose on my stairs underneath carpet. I'm worried if I cut that off to flush with the toe kick it would eliminate much needed step length. Do I just build up the toe kick to flush with the bullnose or what do you think my options are?
Thanks for the info, but still have to make a custom piece to match stair treads - no riser on top ( open face steps) and wraps around onto the wall. This video will still help the owner feel comfortable with what needs to be done. Thanks 🙏
What Batt. Bran Nailer would you recommend, been looking at the Dewalt but wanted to see what you thought was best. Just for DYI use and my home renovations.
I have a dewalt and a milwaukee and hands down the milwaukee is far better. The dewalt seems to always have a nail that did not sink. And as I'm sure you know, trying to use a nail punch on a brad nail is not an easy task
@@SoThatsHowYouDoThat Thanks for the reply. Yes it is a nightmare trying to drive them in. Thank you , I'm going to look into that gun also. I have a ton of battery dewalt tools so I was thinking I already have those batteries. But I want what is going to get the job done, so it may be team red. Thank you again and awesome videos as all ways.
Where do you get stairnose shim? I've searched high and low. Also, what readily available adhesive would you use? I was thinking Lock-Tite 400 or Gorilla Glue. Is the MasterWeld that much better?
I have a question I have an existing set of stairs that have wood planks installed on them I'm going to install vinyl planks on top existing steps already have a bullnose, in order to install the vinyl plank bullnose I will need to shave off that overhang of the existing bullnose correct. There needs to be a perfect 90° angle at the edge of the step in order for the bullnose to work. How do you recommend I remove that existing bullnose flush with the riser
I base the layout off of the hall and start in an area where I will be able to keep the flow of the plank going with the least amount of working backwards. Have you seen this video - ua-cam.com/video/6eZHHSzI7Qo/v-deo.html
Thanks Joe for another amazing video! I was wondering if you have any tips on how to cover the exposed end of the risers when installing lvp on open-ended stairs on both sides. The Provenza luxury vinyl that I am considering has stair nose available for the treads. Thanks again for all of your informative videos!
@@SoThatsHowYouDoThat Did you mean you would use wood on the riser? That would work if I painted it. Since I am using lvp in the hallway at the top of the stairs, I want the treads to match if possible. I hope that makes sense.
@@kaydugan3992 I'm having the same problem and have yet to find a solution. I keep thinking I should just miter the corners where the edges meet but I'm stuck on what adhesive to use for them. Let me know if you found any solutions.
Literally doing this right now. Supposed to install the step first, then the riser on top of the step. Having the riser over the step will keep it in place to avoid it eventually flipping up from the weight of people stepping on it over time.
For stair landings, what is the proper method: flush nose and glue all planks down, or floating planks with overlap nose? Stair landing is roughly 4’x4’
This is exactly what i have been looking for last several days to understand how to finish the first step and laminate flooring upstairs. By clearly showing the difference in overlapping and flush satire nose, now i understand how to complete my job.
Glad to help!
This is exactly what I was looking for a week ago when I did my stair nose...looks like I did it right. Your videos made my recent LVP install a breeze. I used your layout method starting in my hallway and then transferring the starting line to the front wall and screwing scraps at the joints. It stayed square throughout and I got a nice wide plank on both sides of my hallway. Thank you for your great work and very informative videos!!!
Thank you for posting this and I am glad to help!
I am an installer and you are the man. Thanks so much. I really respect 🙏 your opinions. Great work and your a good person. Thanks!
You have helped me immensely!I've done a cpl small home jobs that were "ok". My last 2 look 100% and I know are solid bcuz of your guidance. THANK YOU!
YW!!
@@SoThatsHowYouDoThat Thank you so much for sharing your expertise. I am a New Subbie 🤗 and I hit that 🛎 bell to be notified. God bless you 💟
Hey Joe I was just wondering if you have any videos actually doing the rest of the stairs and not just the nose. Thank you for all your hard work Joe! You’re the best!
Thank you. This answered my main concern about running my floor perpendicular to the nosing
Thanks so much for these instructional videos. I am going to attempt a set of stairs and the second floor of a two story house. Watching these videos is a great boost of confidence. If you ever get a chance to do a set of stairs that are open on one end, please post a video of your method of capping the stair end.
Sure thing
I’d love to see a video on finishing off open stair edges too. Thanks so much for this
Just had my floor guy finish doing three rooms with laminate planks and we need to finish the to of the stairs with a type of bull nose. Your video answered my questions. Tomorrow we are going to the flooring store to find something that works. Thank you for an informative video.
Thank you!
I can't say Thank You enough for your expertise Educational video's!! Your the BEST EVER!
Can you show me how to reverse a stair nose for a finish look on the edge? Thank you for your willingness to help/look at specific situations. Love the testimony at the end, too!
Probably good to mention that you did a dry fit on the pieces before gluing them. I really enjoy all your videos I’ve seen so far. Getting ready to do a big job. Been a painting contractor 30 years. Appreciate how you teach things. Feeling more confident to do my new house with LVP
Thank you. This answered my main concern about running my floor perpendicular to the nosing in my u-shaped hallway
THANK YOU FOR THIS VIDEO. I'M A DIY MOM AND THIS REALLY HELPED ME A LOT.
Great VDO… I’ve been looking for this vinyl stairs installation since my contractor used metal stair noses for cheaper and short cut version without telling us before. I’ll show them your UA-cam! Thank you
You are the best carpenter and what I say hello from New York👍🇺🇸
Thank you so much. Great job on explaining the details to the "new homeowner 101" peeps like us! Very helpful to be able to speak more knowledgably to my contractor. Also what material to purchase. Thanks again!
Bro your flooring videos are the best on UA-cam. I learned so much by watching keep up the good work you helped me a lot. Thank you
Fantastic video! I was scratching my head how to do this, but your video precisely explains. Thanks you so much!
Incredibly helpful video. Clear explanations. Excellent work!
Glad you enjoyed it!
Very well explained and even though I would prefer to go go flush , I understand now the practical reasons for not doing so .
Thanks for posting 👍
Glad it was helpful!
Hey Joe,
I am working on my LVP treads, just finished cutting everything and it’s nice and tight fit, very happy, I am ready to glue down, and I am wondering if it is OK to glue the LVP with the attached underlayment pad to the existing stairs or do I need to somehow tear it off? Let me know your thoughts; product is adura max.
Great video and presentation! Have been wanting to redo our stairs and your video gives me a few pointers. Thanks for posting!
Glad it was helpful!
In fact, all your videos are good and interesting, but I hope that you will make videos on how to maintain the stairs, repacking and dyeing again because the videos on this topic are few and thank you
Thank you so much for sharing this information with us. It's a big help for me. God bless you.
Thank you!
My entire upstairs is lvp and the currently installed flush stair nose is coming loose and floors are lifting. Contractor is suggesting to install over lap stair nose just like you, BUT they want to rip out and replace only the planks butting up to the new nose. Won't that mess up the structural integrity of the floor that's running the entire upstairs with no transitions? Please help!!
Have been a subscriber and watched all you video's and you have helped me immensely, even answering my questions in the comment section. Big Thanks from the state of Maine. Am into a situation where my Kardean glue down LVT is ending or transitioning into a 5' wide one stair sunken living room where both rooms (kitchen and LR) have the same LVT installed. Previously the stair and 2 risers were covered with rug. Because I do not want guests to trip, as well as believe it would look better, I would like real wood tread and risers in a different wood grain and color to highlight the step. Wanted your opinion on a 3" wide oak stair nosing, flush mount with a groove and spline installed at beginning of stairs. Then continue with and oak riser to the 1 oak tread and end with an oak riser. From there the LVT starts in the sunken LR. I have most all tools and can make a nosing from rough lumber as I will do with the 1 tread. So I am not limited to using what is offered pre-made. Again Thanks for putting your work out there for all to enjoy and learn from.
edit: in this video you decided to use same color stair nose as floor as opposed to an oak stair nose that would match the oak stairs. I am no designer and not convinced how it would have looked with stair nose same color of stairs. Also I would like to make my stair nose much wider than the one you used or offered pre-made. Maybe you can add your opinion as it is same question I am having trouble deciding. I will add that in your case anyone ( including guests) would not have a problem tripping because it is obvious there are stairs there. In my case I am trying to highlight a trip hazard and reason for my choice to have it same as the stair. Maybe? Maybe not? Again, looking for a professional opinion.
I think that would be just fine.
So.. I'm thinking about custom bending a plank for each of my stairs and actually fabricating the nosing. The edge of the step is square and extends past the tread approximately an inch and a half. I've been seeing people heat the plank and form it to the shape of the nose. Then connect to the tread plank to the nose plank and glue it all in place. I was also going to remove the padding before all of this. Do you know what I mean? Have you ever tried something like this? What are your thoughts?
exactly what i needed. Simple, to the point and you really know your stuff! Thank you
Glad it helped!
Perfect timing! Just what I needed, thank you for your help. How would you vinyl plank the steps?
A stair video is on the top of my list. Soon!
I'm pondering the same question. Sounds like Joe confirmed what I've thought, planks need to be glued down on the step tread itself
Just like everyone says. This is exactly the video i was looking for. So nicely explained and also the website is well done. Many thanks for taking the time in making this educational and step by step video. I was stuck at this step for two weeks. I have everything i need to know with the help of your video.
Can you add how to cut (flush to the riser) an existing nosing at the topmost stair which has that curved nosing with a jigsaw or reciprocating saw and any challenges?
I can do that.
Great video, so would you use a flush mount and overlapping stair nose on the same set of stairs based on the location???
Thanks for all of your insight Joe!!!
My pleasure!
I just learned COREtec lvp has flush stair nosings! Have you ever used this brand? I noticed it was a little pricier but now i understand why
Hi. What did you end up doing. I'm about to install LVT on my stairs with risers.
Thanks for this video it definitely will help me. I was told I have to install the stair nose first then go from there in order to keep everything straight. I guess that isn’t true?
That is not true... Here is a video that shows how to start and several other tips. I also have a few more videos that will help you!
ua-cam.com/video/6eZHHSzI7Qo/v-deo.html
I purchased the style of stair nose in this video. Is using a nail gun just as safe as screwing down the nose? Also, are the nails visible? I worry that if I screw down, I won't find matching color putty to fill the countersink screw holes.
I'm also planning on replacing the carpeting on the stairs, but am installing the laminate first. Do you have to wait until the carpeting is replaced before installing the stair nose?
Hi just new in your channel, we are trying to DIY/ upgrade our flooring as well as the stairs, question: do we have to remove the existing laminate in the stairs? Thanks in advance!😊
I'm imagining you are lying on a laminate floor recording the intro. Can't unsee it. ;) JK this was v helpful TY
How is glueing those thin pieces at the end any different then doing a flush stair nose. Won’t it still eliminate the expansion gab? Thanks for all your videos they help a ton.
Those shims do not go past the base of the nosing, which means where the lip extends, the shim does not and that is where the expansion joint is at.
@@SoThatsHowYouDoThat The expansion joint should be between the shims/nosing base and the plank flooring. The lip is made to cover the expansion joint, but there is none here because you pushed the shims up tight to the field pieces.
@@DrPepperZZZ LVP does not require much expansion gap.
Its not like he placed the shims then beat the planks against them.
I understand the concept of the nose you used but what’s wrong with using a flush nose so there’s no kind of lip sticking up. I’m assuming they do make flush stair nose ? Just wondering cuz I’m new to plank flooring. Thanks
i enjoyed your video. I do have a question and hope you have time for an answer. I have installed Shaw Flooring Floorte Pro series V235700296 vinyl planks in the top floor of our house. We have stairs that go to the basement and they are carpeted and I am going to leave the stairs alone. The problem is Shaw says they only offer flush mounted stair nose and so now what do I do? How am I supposed to now, install a flush mount stair nose. any help is appreciated.
Thank you so much for this man. Question: I am doing a laminate floor on a concrete slab. Can the bull nose to the garage from the edge of the pad be handled with just the PL400? Or should i attempt to shoot concrete screws into the slab to better hold the bull nose?
Pl 400 is the way I would go.
Hi Joe, Do you have a video discussing laminate versus vinyl plank?
Is that a LVP overlapping stair nose or a laminate? I'm putting down LVP flooring.
Thanks
I have concrete floor that i wanna install LVP with 1 concrete step stairs, any video or suggestions on what I should do with this stairs? Thanks for your time 🙏
Thanks for recording/publishing this!
I'm trying to tile an entry-way/foyer, and it transitions to some stairs going up and down -- for the stairs going down, I have a 'transition' strip to match the wood treads -- I just am not sure how to work that with the tile, hardie-backer board, mortar, and any metal transition strip -- do you have a video that deals with that?
This was super helpful
thank you just what I needed
God bless you as well brother keep up the good work !
Thanks, you too!
Awesome video and perfect timing! I am getting ready to install the same stair nosing. Question: is installing laminate tread over exiting laminate tread an option? Or should I just tear the old ones off? Just asking because with the adhesive used in the existing laminate treads I’m sure ill damage the subfloor/plywood. Thanks again for the great video!
I would tear it out.
Great explanations! Thank you! If the planks are parallel to the stairs do you still recommend the overlap?
Yes
Sweet...thanks for the education
Gold! thanks and YOU be Blessed
What if your planks in the hallway are going sideways then they can't seperate at the seam away from the nosing right because they're going the other way ? so if I glue a L shape nosing that I made by bending a vinyl plank to create the matching nosing to the top of what would be the side of the plank then it will hang over the nosing that's already there because there's carpet runner on the stairs that would be fine right with a bunch of P.L premium adhesive tapes off to dry for a day or 2?
Is laminate better than LVP for stairs? We're going to do the square nose. Thanks! God bless🙏
LVP will be better because it is not as slippery.
Thank you the video was a big help
Glad to hear it!
Thank you this was very informative. My stair nose is getting a bit loose so I was told to use gorilla wood glue and nails. Does that sound ok? I also don’t have nail gun, would a hammer be okay?
Sounds good!
You're such a great guy. Thanks for your time in teaching this. I do have a question for you... I will be going over a little brick landing and brick steps leading to a brick floor... Will I be just gluing my laminate down to the riser and the tread?
Yes
Thanks!
Thank you Jimmy! I really appreciate you!
To create a flush transition, I was thinking of gluing the tongue of the first laminate floor board to a groove in the stair tread. The rest of the flooring would attach and float as usual. ???
Excellent video great info great install
Glad you enjoyed it
My contractor put floating laminate flooring in and glue the laminate to the stair treads and risers. He used overlapping nose on every stair And I Hate It !
The hump on every stair nose is very uncomfortable to walk on. So I'm in the process of pulling it apart and installing flush nosing myself.
Sounds rough.
Very nicely done!! Thank you for the info.May I ask do you have a link for the flush stair nosing?
Not yet.
The flooring I'm using doesn't have a flush mount option. I'd like to carry the same plank down the stairs. Can I use an overlap stair nose on the individual steps (assuming I cut off the stairnose on the tread first) or is that going to be weird having a small lip at the front of every step?
Thanks for the help 😊
No problem 😊
Is this the same installation for 3/8 inch engineered hardwood? I have a stairwell where we layed floor at the top and then have to install a new railing to the side of the stairwell because it is open. Its been difficult to find the right pieces to match everything up.
So basically it has to be overlapping for the top step because the landing boards there need room to expand. But, on the rest of the steps, they will be glued in place so can be flush mounted? It would have been good to do the next step down showing the flush mount process.
This is good but I have a really tough stair transition that I'm struggling to figure out how to fit the stair nose to. Instead of the stair nose ending like what is in the video. the top stair connects to walls that are opening up to a room that has about 43-45 degree angle Think stopsign shape and the stairs going down are heading towards the middle of the sign). How do I do an overlapping stairnose and cut around the wall trim wihile having edge of the stair nose wider than the top landing?
That's beautiful 😍
Great job 👍
Thank you! Cheers!
I want to install LVP in my patio, where I have two level concrete slab. The lower slab is about 5 inches lower than other. Thinking to do the same you did here in this video on stair.
Should I use the same glue to bond it ? Nail wouldn't work as there is concrete slab underneath. Any advise?
Thanks.
Under any situation with LVP over wood plywood would you install a metal bullnose
Do you remove the padded backing on the vinyl pieces prior to installation on the stairs. Having to finish up the project myself due to installers wanting to nail everything down
Hi Joe thank you for all the information God bless you. The 1st step bull noses doesn't seem secure id i cut the bullnose off leaving about an inch remaining with a big gap between the subfloor and the bullnose...any suggestions would it be stable if I do that...BTW installing vinyl on stairs and also uostairs
Can you share some pics on my facebook page?
I think Vinyl, Laminate, and hardwood are all dangerous on stairs. I know carpets are dirty. I think using a easily replaceable carpet runner may be the best way to go. You only have to fall down from a slippery stairs once to realize carpet is the safest option. Since permanent carpet is too hard to replace therefore I recommend a runner option.
Hi, nice video. Have a question , I built a loft and now Idk what to use at the end of the laminated floor and I’m planing to install a handrail at the edge too. What is your advice? Thxs
I would need to see some pics. Can u share them on my facebook page, there is a link below
So helpful thanks!
No problem!
if you use a flush mount for the top step what if you glued the ends of the flooring? it can still expand in the other direction
Hello, our stairs already had stair nose but 2-3 of them come off already, my son is always in a hurry and running in the stairs then stair nose will just come off, how do I put it back, do I need to remove the old dried glue. The installer said he will fix it but it’s more than a month now and no show. I asked him what he used here and said liquid nail, is that good? Please advise, thank you
Try this glue instead and yes scrape as much of the old glue off that you can. amzn.to/3EriW2m
I have quite a large bullnose on my stairs underneath carpet. I'm worried if I cut that off to flush with the toe kick it would eliminate much needed step length. Do I just build up the toe kick to flush with the bullnose or what do you think my options are?
Hey Aaron, can you ask this question on my contact page so we can talk privately about this?www.sothatshowyoudothat.com/contact-us/
Great video. God bless
Thank you! You too!
Why is my top step that the contractor installed so BIG, you can't step down with out walking what seems a short plank????? any suggestions? thanks!
I have a "sunken living room" which was popular in the 70's. I am assuming the best trim for the top is stair nose. Am I correct?
Yes
Thanks for the info, but still have to make a custom piece to match stair treads - no riser on top ( open face steps) and wraps around onto the wall. This video will still help the owner feel comfortable with what needs to be done. Thanks 🙏
How about heating the vinyl plank and molding around the treads
What Batt. Bran Nailer would you recommend, been looking at the Dewalt but wanted to see what you thought was best. Just for DYI use and my home renovations.
I have a dewalt and a milwaukee and hands down the milwaukee is far better. The dewalt seems to always have a nail that did not sink. And as I'm sure you know, trying to use a nail punch on a brad nail is not an easy task
@@SoThatsHowYouDoThat Thanks for the reply. Yes it is a nightmare trying to drive them in. Thank you , I'm going to look into that gun also. I have a ton of battery dewalt tools so I was thinking I already have those batteries. But I want what is going to get the job done, so it may be team red. Thank you again and awesome videos as all ways.
I just bout the ryobi p320. It was 99 on sale.
I firmly believe, if you are going Cordless, Makita beats everything (Dewalt, Milwaukee, Rigid, Hitachi, Hilti) by at least 5 years.
Are they made of mdf? I would worry about moisture and it swelling say your kids spul something or whe you clean the floor. What do you think?
Nah. That is worrying a little too much, it will be fine. I would never use the plastic nose over this one.
Thank you for this. Now that I know I need an overlapping stair nosing, where can I get it?
You can find them online if your manufacturer does not have them available.
I love your videos ! Thank you for all you do. I would love to know the name of the shims they definitely do not have them at lowes in tn
You can make your own with a tablesaw.
@@SoThatsHowYouDoThat what material do you use?
Where do you get stairnose shim? I've searched high and low.
Also, what readily available adhesive would you use?
I was thinking Lock-Tite 400 or Gorilla Glue. Is the MasterWeld that much better?
Thank you and God bless.
Have a great day.
I use clear gorilla glue
When laying laminate for stairs, which do you plank first, the rise or the run?
Start at the bottom and install the riser then the tread and repeat! Work your way up.
What do you think of something like "Cap a Tread" so you do not have to cut off your stair nosing?
I like it! You would still use a stairnose on the very top step down.
I have a question I have an existing set of stairs that have wood planks installed on them I'm going to install vinyl planks on top existing steps already have a bullnose, in order to install the vinyl plank bullnose I will need to shave off that overhang of the existing bullnose correct. There needs to be a perfect 90° angle at the edge of the step in order for the bullnose to work. How do you recommend I remove that existing bullnose flush with the riser
I use a jigsaw and an oscillating saw on the ends against the wall. A circular saw will also work.
I used a quarter inch flush mount router bit attached to small router.
Do you have a video that shows you where to start laminate at top of stairs. Do I start at top step or middle hall way and run it to the steps?
I base the layout off of the hall and start in an area where I will be able to keep the flow of the plank going with the least amount of working backwards. Have you seen this video - ua-cam.com/video/6eZHHSzI7Qo/v-deo.html
Thanks Joe for another amazing video! I was wondering if you have any tips on how to cover the exposed end of the risers when installing lvp on open-ended stairs on both sides. The Provenza luxury vinyl that I am considering has stair nose available for the treads. Thanks again for all of your informative videos!
I would replace the treads with a solid wood.
@@SoThatsHowYouDoThat Did you mean you would use wood on the riser? That would work if I painted it. Since I am using lvp in the hallway at the top of the stairs, I want the treads to match if possible. I hope that makes sense.
@@kaydugan3992 I'm having the same problem and have yet to find a solution. I keep thinking I should just miter the corners where the edges meet but I'm stuck on what adhesive to use for them. Let me know if you found any solutions.
So....if I am using a floating lvp, are you saying I will glue it to the treads anyway?? Does it not need to move a little on the stair planks?
The steps are treated differently, always glue the steps.
@@SoThatsHowYouDoThat got it...thanks!
Great video!! Thank you.
Glad you liked it!
When covering stairs, do you cover the tread first and then the riser, or the riser first and then the tread?
Literally doing this right now. Supposed to install the step first, then the riser on top of the step. Having the riser over the step will keep it in place to avoid it eventually flipping up from the weight of people stepping on it over time.
I am vinyl planking over tile. The existing bullnose is a metal edge with tile over it. Should I grind it flush with stairs?
Can you share pics on my facebook page or email.
Ok tnx. I sent you a message on your Facebook page.
For stair landings, what is the proper method: flush nose and glue all planks down, or floating planks with overlap nose? Stair landing is roughly 4’x4’
Both are ok
thanks
You're welcome!