@Curtis Collins Thanks for the question! Send me a pic of your stair to youfloor.net@gmail.com Briefly tell me what you are looking to do with the stair and I will see how I can help!
Hey Man... you’re awesome!! After hours and hours trying to figure out how to deal with the overhang I came across your video and finally found a way to deal with it!! Your video helped me a lot thank you so much for this!!!!
@Omar Arias I'm reaching out to my commenters to make sure you know I am giving some tools away for Christmas. If you are interested in entering click here for details - - - - - > ua-cam.com/video/iQOXh0b-_dg/v-deo.html
NICELY DONE. I like that your demo used stairs whose 1st step needed that corner piece. I have a small corner needed, and (exhaustedly) did not plan for that outward 45-degree cut. Fortunately I have an extra tread. But I caught my error in time (before using glue!), thanks to your video
Oh man, I was agonizing about having to cut off the top step bullnose because I have a different transition strip nose for the top. I never thought of simply putting a spacer, for the riser, to match the depth of the nose. Brilliant! Thanks
When you buy your tread make sure if you have open ended steps to order a right or a left return. It will come already mitered on the tread. You will just have to cut the side piece on your miter saw to fit. I did it in the video. Check it out. Thanks for the question
@Colorado Wing I'm reaching out to my commenters to make sure you know I am giving some tools away for Christmas. If you are interested in entering click here for details - - - - - > ua-cam.com/video/iQOXh0b-_dg/v-deo.html
Great video thx! I like using a pin nailer, less chance of blow out and usually nomputty required. Once that pl 3x dries... treads are going nowhere and pity next person who would have to remove
Good video. The finger application tool was perfect for that trim return piece. I believe Cap A Tread now makes a version of the tread product that has a bigger nose space that will wrap around the thicker treads such as your situation. They call it type 2.
@Roik Hockenberger I have installed both versions of these however the last time I installed the type 2 they didn’t make the open ended return for that type. Tks for the comment.
@@YOUFLOOR Hey so question then, I installed the Type 2 ones on my stairs a few years ago, but I made the dumb mistake of installing a normal tread on my bottom step that is open-ended on the left similar to the one in this video. It seems like they only sell the type 1 treads with left/right returns, so I was wondering what the best solution would be.
So if you have already installed them. And glued them sorry to say there is no solution . You can take it of another the type one but then they wouldn't match. That why if we have open returns we just order the type one. You could possibly make a side piece and try to stain close in color. But that will take some patience. Sorry couldn't give a solid solution. Wonder why they dont make one. Doesn't make sense. Hope I was some help. Good luck bud. Thanks for the question
@@benharrison5816 I am reading back through some of the comments as I let people know about our Christmas Tool Giveaway and I have came upon yours. Did you ever come up with a resolution for your open ended tread? Would love to know. Also wanted to let you know I am giving tools away for Christmas. If you are interested you can get all the details here - - - - - > ua-cam.com/video/iQOXh0b-_dg/v-deo.html
@@YOUFLOOR I've been working on other projects in my house lately and haven't got back to the stairs yet, but my plan is to eventually rip out the existing tread and sand off the adhesive (feels like it's a bit loose after a few years anyway), get it smooth and clean and level, and buy a new piece of type 2 that I can slide into place and glue down. Will do a mitered return cut on it, and CA glue the pieces together. The cut looks a bit difficult, but I have a bunch of scrap pieces leftover in my garage still, so I should be able to do some practice cuts. Found a video that shows how to do it with similar treads: ua-cam.com/video/aDnN-kcbAoc/v-deo.html
As long as the floor isn't glued at any other location (which could cause buckle) the available expansion gap around the rest of the floor will accomidate expansion.
I was interested in cap a tread because I thought it would be easier than installing new steps but it seems like this would be a lot of detailed work as well? Also can these go over hardwood steps? Looks like yours are sanded or something? My apologies in advance if my questions sound stupid.
QUESTION -- At 11:28 you cut the side return. Your side return is solid (not hollow). Are these solid-trim-returns sold separately and have a product name?? It doesn't look like scrap from another step's front edge. Since you have the thinner steps (hollow front curve loop), but a solid piece of side return, I'm guessing you purchased that separately?
You will need to purchase a coordinating color stairnose and then miter it on the outside corners to finish off the step. Hope that helps. Thanks for the question
I use my table saw. Usually, it's a Diablo blade. But I score my cut with a straight edge and a razor blade then cut just on the other side of my line to prevent chipping
Hey great video man I'm getting ready to install these on my stairs. One thing that worries me is the hollow nose area breaking. Have you ever had that problem ?
No but after installing some and going back after 2 years. If I was doing it again , I might attached some type of nosing and glue the heck out of it. They don't break, but they are sqeaky as all get out. Glue would definitely help with both issues. Hey thanks for the comment. Good luck with your project
Great video! Just curious with the cap a tread, we have the same situation where we have 2x12 treads but they don’t make the type 2 cap a treads for that color anymore. Is there any issues with the nose of the normal cap a treads possibly breaking with weight or over time without a normal rounded tread being inside of it?
I can't promise anything but I have use those in the past. And I have never had one break. I will say I have had that same thought though. Thanks for the question
Not necessarily.. it's really customer's preference. This couple had the living room and hall done 1st. Then the bonus room later that year and they wanted to match the downstairs. Plus in my opinion, floors look the best running long ways on the longest wall. Not to mention it looks better lengths ways down a hall. Sideways gives it a boardwalk, planks look. Again just my opinion. The stairs came last and of course they only go one way. Great question. Thank for the veiw
@@YOUFLOOR I meant glue it in place not away from the stairs does that make sense? Cuz if you were off just a little bit it might not have fit or it would bow on the miter
Hi. I really like your videos. But I need a little help. How did you cut the cap-a-tread for the open return? I have tried making the cut many MANY times lol! And I can not get the cut right! I have tried cutting the rounded edge first, flat side first, upside-down, right side up, chop saw, table saw, jig saw. I have already installed 22 cap-a-treads. They were all normal difficulty but my last 5 steps are open ended on one side and I just can not get the cuts clean. I am an avid novice wood worker, meaning I very much enjoy fixing and making things but I am nowhere close to a pro. I am almost at the end of my scrap pieces for practice and definitely at the end of my patience lol! Your assistance would be greatly appreciated.
Around 10 minutes into the video, I show how and explain everything I was about to type here. Check it out because I believe it answers all your questions
@@YOUFLOOR Great video, I’m installing these on my stairs as well. Where did you purchase your cap a treads from? I don’t see the option to buy them open ended through Home Depot.
@Mary Vargas I guess the stair is called open ended because it doesn’t hit up against a wall but you need a left handed or right handed return on the stair when purchasing it. Look straight at the staircase to see if you need a left return, right return, or double (both sides). Hope that helps! I’ve also found that the Home Depot website may show it has a right return but not left but I’m pretty sure they can order whatever you need, you just need to call or go in and talk to someone. Please let me know if you have any other questions during the installation or ever!
@YOUR-TUBE I also wanted to let you know I am giving some tools away for Christmas. If you are interested in entering click here for details - - - - - > ua-cam.com/video/iQOXh0b-_dg/v-deo.html
Thanks for this video, it was extremely helpful! I have a question though, what if there is no stair nosing available for my floor? I am using cap a tread as well but I cannot find the nosing for the landing… have you ever dealt with this? I am thinking using one of the treads and just cutting it and using caulk to fill in the joint between the tread and flooring when I get to the landing. What do you think?
I've run into this before there are 2 things you can do 1st I will go to floor and décor and look at their transition selection he would be surprised they probably even have the exact stairnose that matches your cap a treads. Or If you have the planks that you use to install your floor and they are LVP you can get a jig and use a heat gun to wrap those stairs around to make a bull nose of your own I did it on another set of steps I will try to find a pic and send
Is it a good idea to glue the stair nose to your LVP? I saw you place a bead of glue on the part that rests on the LVP...wouldn't that take away from the floating floor aspect of LVP?
Ahh. Gotcha. If you'll notice at 14:41 I switched from a urethane glue to 100% silicone. The glue will for sure hold the stair nose . But the silicone is just to prevent any spills or pet accidents from going under your stairs and into the subfloor. It will flex so it will still allow the floor to move while keeping the stair nose in place. Great question. Thanks brother. Hope that helps
Yes, only the type one comes with a return. If you had the right set Up and there was enough left in the cut offs, you could rip a stair nose out if the cut-off and try to miter it on the side. But that's a lot of work. Not sure why they just won't make a return for type two. If I think of anything I'll get back to you.
I believe the company that makes them is zamma. On this particular job it looks like they made a stairnose to match. Not 100% positive but if they make a cap a tread. I'm pretty sure they make the stair nose to match. I'll admit I was surprised to see it on the job myself. Which is why I bought one very close from floor and decor. Luckily I didn't have to use it
We recently had Cap a Tread installed and we're having issues with one tread cap slipping forward about 1/8" and having bounce underneath when it does. When I use a rubber mallot to return it flush to it's original place, the bouncing goes away. Should I just secure the tread cap in this location with some nails, or should I pull off the full cap and reset it?
The quick fix would be to tap it back it place and fire a couple 18 gauge brad nails. Then putty the holes. But if you were able to get it out without ruining any thing else then I might try to reglue it and then nail it back. Hate to se it completely slip out when someone is running down the stairs. Hope that helps. Thanks for the question
@@YOUFLOOR - Took your advice securing it with nails. The planks under the cap are 70+ years old, have been submerged in floods at least 4 times, and are awfully warped. I don't want this turning into a large project - just want to make sure everyone's safe. Thanks a ton!
I have not experienced any issues with them up to presents t day. I have installed quite a few of these sets of step. If you use the right glue, they should hold up just fine if your basement is finished and dried in. If it is just a concrete slab and ot is open to the outside where moisture can get in then it might be better to go with real wood . And then treat it. Hope that helps. Great question
Is there a way to flush last step with floor rather than installing over....that last step going over the floor does not look nice in my opinion/ unsafe bump. I know vinyl floor and cap a tread have different height and do not match....but was hoping for perfect flush installation between stair and floor between two staircases.
Maybe experimenting with gorilla will have good results. If you cut the locking system off maybe butting and gluing will work. I think I understand. If I'm wrong then send me a m pic. Would love to see what you are talking about. Youfloor.net@gmail.com
You would have to custom make a stair for that situation . Sorry wish there was an easy solution. They do sell the curved riser and round step at floor and decor. Maybe that's the answer. Hope that helps. Thanks for the question
These treads are only an inch thick, and the existing treads are an inch and a half. They make a style that is 1 1/2 inches, but for some reason, they don't make that style with a return for open-ended steps. I'm not sure why. So, if you have open-ended steps, your choices are to cut off the nose on all of them or fur them out and run the riser up to the top so the capa tread completely covers the top of the risers. Hope that helps. Thanks for the question
There are 2 types of stair covers. Type 1, which is for 1 inch treads. Type 2, which is for 1 1/2 inch treads. The returns only come in the type 2 treads. You can special order them from Home Depot. That's what we have to do,and also you need to specify whether you need a right hand or left hand return. Hope that gulps. Thanks for the question
@jarred1608 yeah I can't remember, but I believe they only make type 1 with a return. That doesn't make sense. Should have it for both. Do you have any lvp that match in color. If so you could make your own
The return is only available in the type 2 cap-a-tread. Not I the 1 inch. Which is type 1. Y I h can order them or check floor & decor if home dedoesnt have them. Hope that helps.
I don't think it would stain very well. a laminate veneer. I imagine they would somewhat stain, but I'm not sure if it would be results you are looking for. Try a test piece 1st. Hope that helps. Thanks for the question
I’m asking for help from other contractors on here that hopefully see this. I think I’m getting shafted by this subcontracting company. 14 steps at $7.50 = $105.00 for labor. I’m spending way more in glue. That alone tells me I’m right but I need the community to hear me out. I’ve researched all over the internet , consulted with other flooring stores and the average per tread alone is anywhere from $50 to $120 depending on the contractor respectively. Stairs are no joke especially when done right. I know you guys don’t like talking about your prices like a chef discussing his recipes but for the love of the flooring gods please help. I need some feedback from my fellow contractors out there.
Right now, if someone asked me to do a set of steps. We charge $75 per step. If the customer wants to pull all staples, pad , and carpet, we'll do it for $60 dollars a step. If I have to do custom work like staining to match existing flooring or boxing in open-ended steps, we charge $100. People play doctor all the time but don't get doctor results. So if they wants to play carpenter, let them. But if they want quality they need to pay you what your worth. And you are worth way more than you think, or he would nt be calling you. The company is probably charging 50 bucks a step and paying you 7.50 I had a big flooring company do that to me. I was the only one that would do steps and I did them good So when I found out how much They were charging versus what they were paying me. I Understood why. I told them no more steps and all of a sudden. I got a pay raise. Also there is a guy on youtube. Check out his video. ua-cam.com/video/VSOUIg8fWhw/v-deo.html good to watch if yoU are a contractor struggling with prices. Good luck buddy. I'd love to know how it turns out. Also do you have a yt channel. You should record your process. Stairs are big on youtube. Make some extra money that keeps paying you. I'll definitely subscribe to help you out. Thanks for the question
I screwed up. Didn't pay close enough attention to you shimming the riser out to the front to the step. I should sent you pics of how bad I screwed up. I took off the steps, put osb in, bla bla bla there was slate glued to the front. I wasted sooo much time. But I jam sawed out the skirt, like an idiot. should have watched this 3 times.
I’m asking for help from other contractors on here. I think I’m getting shafted by this subcontracting company. 14 steps at $7.50 = $105.00 for labor. I’ve researched all over the internet and the average per tread alone is anywhere from $50 to $120 depending on the contractor respectively. I know you guys don’t like talking about your prices like a chef discussing his recipes but for the love of the flooring gods please help.
I 100% agree. I tried to tell them but they insisted on color matching. I think the white pops off of the baseboard and skirt boards much nicer. Thanks for the comment
We're getting ready to install stair caps. This video is super helpful-thank you!
No problem. Thanks for the comment
Nice work ! Looks great
Omg...yes...but I'm not there DIY but know what to ask for...now to find a guy good as you.
Stay well n blessed my friend
Thanks for the kind word. Good luck with future projects
Awesome instructions with a fantastic result. Thanks
I appreciate that. Thanks for the comment
Very helpful video! I'm getting ready to install today.
Awesome. Good luck on your project.
I was dreading doing these and now I feel a lot better! Thanks, liked and subscribed! 🎉
Good to hear. You got this. If you have any questions, hit me in the comments. I check them daily. Thanks for the like and sub. It really helps👊
Thank you for your video! You are why UA-cam is so great! I have an open stair on the bottom and can use your instruction.
@Curtis Collins Thanks for the question! Send me a pic of your stair to youfloor.net@gmail.com
Briefly tell me what you are looking to do with the stair and I will see how I can help!
Hey Man... you’re awesome!! After hours and hours trying to figure out how to deal with the overhang I came across your video and finally found a way to deal with it!! Your video helped me a lot thank you so much for this!!!!
@Omar Arias thanks man. Glad you found what you needed! I’m here to help so if you ever have any questions, feel free to ask.
@Omar Arias I'm reaching out to my commenters to make sure you know I am giving some tools away for Christmas. If you are interested in entering click here for details - - - - - > ua-cam.com/video/iQOXh0b-_dg/v-deo.html
NICELY DONE. I like that your demo used stairs whose 1st step needed that corner piece. I have a small corner needed, and (exhaustedly) did not plan for that outward 45-degree cut. Fortunately I have an extra tread. But I caught my error in time (before using glue!), thanks to your video
Rock non! I'm glad you caught it in time. Carry on On sir. Thanks for the comment
Great video, thank you.
Great video, thanks for taking the time to help us
N.p. thanks for the comment
That is really a beautiful job🙏🙌🏼💪🏼🎊
Thank you for the comment
Great video and commentary! Got two stairways to do and this video helps!
You got it bud. Thanks for the comment
Wow that is all I need Sir. Beautiful job💪🏼🙏🎉
No problem friend. Good luck with your projects. Thanks for the comment
Awesome job!!!!
Thank you
Oh man, I was agonizing about having to cut off the top step bullnose because I have a different transition strip nose for the top. I never thought of simply putting a spacer, for the riser, to match the depth of the nose. Brilliant! Thanks
@Colorado Wing Tks bro! Glad I could help!
@@YOUFLOOR how did you make the 45 angle cut on the cap-a-thread stair
When you buy your tread make sure if you have open ended steps to order a right or a left return. It will come already mitered on the tread. You will just have to cut the side piece on your miter saw to fit. I did it in the video. Check it out. Thanks for the question
@Colorado Wing I'm reaching out to my commenters to make sure you know I am giving some tools away for Christmas. If you are interested in entering click here for details - - - - - > ua-cam.com/video/iQOXh0b-_dg/v-deo.html
Just be sure to glue.
Good job , looks awesome!
Thank you.
Thanks for this.
Great video thx! I like using a pin nailer, less chance of blow out and usually nomputty required. Once that pl 3x dries... treads are going nowhere and pity next person who would have to remove
💯Truth ,I'm with ya on that😁
This helped a lot! Thank you! Luckily my 1912 house stairs are wall to wall!
👍right on
Good video. The finger application tool was perfect for that trim return piece. I believe Cap A Tread now makes a version of the tread product that has a bigger nose space that will wrap around the thicker treads such as your situation. They call it type 2.
@Roik Hockenberger I have installed both versions of these however the last time I installed the type 2 they didn’t make the open ended return for that type. Tks for the comment.
@@YOUFLOOR Hey so question then, I installed the Type 2 ones on my stairs a few years ago, but I made the dumb mistake of installing a normal tread on my bottom step that is open-ended on the left similar to the one in this video. It seems like they only sell the type 1 treads with left/right returns, so I was wondering what the best solution would be.
So if you have already installed them. And glued them sorry to say there is no solution . You can take it of another the type one but then they wouldn't match. That why if we have open returns we just order the type one. You could possibly make a side piece and try to stain close in color. But that will take some patience. Sorry couldn't give a solid solution. Wonder why they dont make one. Doesn't make sense. Hope I was some help. Good luck bud. Thanks for the question
@@benharrison5816 I am reading back through some of the comments as I let people know about our Christmas Tool Giveaway and I have came upon yours. Did you ever come up with a resolution for your open ended tread? Would love to know.
Also wanted to let you know I am giving tools away for Christmas. If you are interested you can get all the details here - - - - - > ua-cam.com/video/iQOXh0b-_dg/v-deo.html
@@YOUFLOOR I've been working on other projects in my house lately and haven't got back to the stairs yet, but my plan is to eventually rip out the existing tread and sand off the adhesive (feels like it's a bit loose after a few years anyway), get it smooth and clean and level, and buy a new piece of type 2 that I can slide into place and glue down. Will do a mitered return cut on it, and CA glue the pieces together. The cut looks a bit difficult, but I have a bunch of scrap pieces leftover in my garage still, so I should be able to do some practice cuts. Found a video that shows how to do it with similar treads: ua-cam.com/video/aDnN-kcbAoc/v-deo.html
Looks great and love the shim idea to build out. How can the floor expand if the treads are glued down?
As long as the floor isn't glued at any other location (which could cause buckle) the available expansion gap around the rest of the floor will accomidate expansion.
Great video! I have the Sterling Gray stair treads but I can't find anywhere that sells the 1/2 round. I need it for one Step! Ugh!!
Check floor and decorations they have a lot of stuff lowes and H.D. do not carry. They have cap a tread
I was interested in cap a tread because I thought it would be easier than installing new steps but it seems like this would be a lot of detailed work as well? Also can these go over hardwood steps? Looks like yours are sanded or something? My apologies in advance if my questions sound stupid.
Awesome 👌
Thank you👍
QUESTION -- At 11:28 you cut the side return. Your side return is solid (not hollow). Are these solid-trim-returns sold separately and have a product name?? It doesn't look like scrap from another step's front edge. Since you have the thinner steps (hollow front curve loop), but a solid piece of side return, I'm guessing you purchased that separately?
No when you buy this particular style, the return come with the step. Hope that helps
Good stuff. I'm wanting to install pergo on my stairs. I'm not sure how to do the open return side.
You will need to purchase a coordinating color stairnose and then miter it on the outside corners to finish off the step. Hope that helps. Thanks for the question
These guys make returns and customizations...
ua-cam.com/users/shortsQw7XCxT9Fus?feature=share
#SaltyCustomVinyl
Amazing video though I wish you showed how you measured and cut the bottom tread to prep for the nose attachment. But excellent work
I'm sorry. I thought I did. Thanks for the comment
Did you use a brad nailer or finish nailer
Great video! Thank you for the tips! With the laminated particle board riser, what blades are you using to prevent chipping?
I use my table saw. Usually, it's a Diablo blade. But I score my cut with a straight edge and a razor blade then cut just on the other side of my line to prevent chipping
Hey great video man I'm getting ready to install these on my stairs. One thing that worries me is the hollow nose area breaking. Have you ever had that problem ?
No but after installing some and going back after 2 years. If I was doing it again , I might attached some type of nosing and glue the heck out of it. They don't break, but they are sqeaky as all get out. Glue would definitely help with both issues. Hey thanks for the comment. Good luck with your project
We've had that same concern and addressed it: SaltyCustomVinyl
Great video! Just curious with the cap a tread, we have the same situation where we have 2x12 treads but they don’t make the type 2 cap a treads for that color anymore. Is there any issues with the nose of the normal cap a treads possibly breaking with weight or over time without a normal rounded tread being inside of it?
I can't promise anything but I have use those in the past. And I have never had one break. I will say I have had that same thought though. Thanks for the question
Looks great but shouldn't your lvp on the top and bottom floor run horizontal with the steps?
Not necessarily.. it's really customer's preference. This couple had the living room and hall done 1st. Then the bonus room later that year and they wanted to match the downstairs. Plus in my opinion, floors look the best running long ways on the longest wall. Not to mention it looks better lengths ways down a hall. Sideways gives it a boardwalk, planks look. Again just my opinion. The stairs came last and of course they only go one way. Great question. Thank for the veiw
Yeah I would have glued that miterd riser after I dry fit it and glued it in place where it's going. Just my two cents. Good video
6:32 I did glue the miter. Thanks for sharing
@@YOUFLOOR I meant glue it in place not away from the stairs does that make sense? Cuz if you were off just a little bit it might not have fit or it would bow on the miter
I gotcha. Yeah I just test fit before hand. C.a glue is amazing for these type of glue ups. Thanks for all the feedback back. I really appreciate it
Hi. I really like your videos. But I need a little help. How did you cut the cap-a-tread for the open return? I have tried making the cut many MANY times lol! And I can not get the cut right! I have tried cutting the rounded edge first, flat side first, upside-down, right side up, chop saw, table saw, jig saw. I have already installed 22 cap-a-treads. They were all normal difficulty but my last 5 steps are open ended on one side and I just can not get the cuts clean. I am an avid novice wood worker, meaning I very much enjoy fixing and making things but I am nowhere close to a pro. I am almost at the end of my scrap pieces for practice and definitely at the end of my patience lol! Your assistance would be greatly appreciated.
Around 10 minutes into the video, I show how and explain everything I was about to type here. Check it out because I believe it answers all your questions
Does the side piece come with the tread, or do you buy it separately
Comes with it
Hi,thanks for the detailed video.where did you buy that end return/nose piece please do let me know?
Actually when you buy the stairs, be sure to buy then open ended. The piece comes in the box. Hope that helps. Thanks for the question
@@YOUFLOOR great ! i appreciate your response :)
@@YOUFLOOR Great video, I’m installing these on my stairs as well. Where did you purchase your cap a treads from? I don’t see the option to buy them open ended through Home Depot.
@Mary Vargas I guess the stair is called open ended because it doesn’t hit up against a wall but you need a left handed or right handed return on the stair when purchasing it. Look straight at the staircase to see if you need a left return, right return, or double (both sides).
Hope that helps! I’ve also found that the Home Depot website may show it has a right return but not left but I’m pretty sure they can order whatever you need, you just need to call or go in and talk to someone. Please let me know if you have any other questions during the installation or ever!
I smashed the like button was, never much of a tap kinda guy.
@YOUR-TUBE appreciate it
@YOUR-TUBE I also wanted to let you know I am giving some tools away for Christmas. If you are interested in entering click here for details - - - - - > ua-cam.com/video/iQOXh0b-_dg/v-deo.html
What's the name of that color wood? Looks great!
It's called restored wood. Thanks for the question
Index finger applicator, got me 😅
Where can you get the thread with the return mitered ? I can’t seem to find any !
Thanks for this video, it was extremely helpful! I have a question though, what if there is no stair nosing available for my floor? I am using cap a tread as well but I cannot find the nosing for the landing… have you ever dealt with this? I am thinking using one of the treads and just cutting it and using caulk to fill in the joint between the tread and flooring when I get to the landing. What do you think?
I've run into this before there are 2 things you can do 1st I will go to floor and décor and look at their transition selection he would be surprised they probably even have the exact stairnose that matches your cap a treads. Or If you have the planks that you use to install your floor and they are LVP you can get a jig and use a heat gun to wrap those stairs around to make a bull nose of your own I did it on another set of steps I will try to find a pic and send
@@YOUFLOOR thank you, I will look into this!
Can they be used outside to cover deck stair treads?
No. They are made of mdf so they will gor sure swell up. They are made for indoor use only. Thanks for the question
Is it a good idea to glue the stair nose to your LVP? I saw you place a bead of glue on the part that rests on the LVP...wouldn't that take away from the floating floor aspect of LVP?
Ahh. Gotcha. If you'll notice at 14:41 I switched from a urethane glue to 100% silicone. The glue will for sure hold the stair nose . But the silicone is just to prevent any spills or pet accidents from going under your stairs and into the subfloor. It will flex so it will still allow the floor to move while keeping the stair nose in place. Great question. Thanks brother. Hope that helps
I'm getting ready too install the type 2,dont know what to do about the return.type 2 has a different side profile then type 1
Yes, only the type one comes with a return. If you had the right set
Up and there was enough left in the cut offs, you could rip a stair nose out if the cut-off and try to miter it on the side. But that's a lot of work. Not sure why they just won't make a return for type two. If I think of anything I'll get back to you.
How long before you can walk on this stairs?
I walk on them as I installing them. So pretty immediately.
Quick question: How many cap a treads come per pack? Or did you buy them one by one???
@Dallas Calhoun They are individual and don’t come with the riser either.
Thanks for the question.
does cap a tread make stair nose to match all types of floors or did you just get lucky matching the floors and steps?
I believe the company that makes them is zamma. On this particular job it looks like they made a stairnose to match. Not 100% positive but if they make a cap a tread. I'm pretty sure they make the stair nose to match. I'll admit I was surprised to see it on the job myself. Which is why I bought one very close from floor and decor. Luckily I didn't have to use it
Im trying to figure out how to prep my tread for an open side
We recently had Cap a Tread installed and we're having issues with one tread cap slipping forward about 1/8" and having bounce underneath when it does. When I use a rubber mallot to return it flush to it's original place, the bouncing goes away. Should I just secure the tread cap in this location with some nails, or should I pull off the full cap and reset it?
The quick fix would be to tap it back it place and fire a couple 18 gauge brad nails. Then putty the holes. But if you were able to get it out without ruining any thing else then I might try to reglue it and then nail it back. Hate to se it completely slip out when someone is running down the stairs. Hope that helps. Thanks for the question
@@YOUFLOOR - Took your advice securing it with nails. The planks under the cap are 70+ years old, have been submerged in floods at least 4 times, and are awfully warped. I don't want this turning into a large project - just want to make sure everyone's safe.
Thanks a ton!
No problem 😀
Great video! Question, would you say cap a tread is pretty durable ? I want to put it down my basement stairs and they get a lot of traffic
I have not experienced any issues with them up to presents t day. I have installed quite a few of these sets of step. If you use the right glue, they should hold up just fine if your basement is finished and dried in. If it is just a concrete slab and ot is open to the outside where moisture can get in then it might be better to go with real wood . And then treat it. Hope that helps. Great question
@@YOUFLOOR thanks so much for your response. The reviews are mixed on home depot website so I thought I would ask a pro. Thanks again this helped
I have the type 2 cap‐a tread , where did you get the finish piece on the side for the first step?
Which urethane glue did you use in this video?
Pl 3x made by Loctite
Is there a way to flush last step with floor rather than installing over....that last step going over the floor does not look nice in my opinion/ unsafe bump. I know vinyl floor and cap a tread have different height and do not match....but was hoping for perfect flush installation between stair and floor between two staircases.
Maybe experimenting with gorilla will have good results. If you cut the locking system off maybe butting and gluing will work. I think I understand. If I'm wrong then send me a m pic. Would love to see what you are talking about. Youfloor.net@gmail.com
@@YOUFLOOR I send you reply to your email address
Hi! How would you deal with the bottom stair having Both a curved tread and riser?
You would have to custom make a stair for that situation . Sorry wish there was an easy solution. They do sell the curved riser and round step at floor and decor. Maybe that's the answer. Hope that helps. Thanks for the question
That first tread does it come mitered from the factory ?
Yes, the plank is mitered, and they send the side piece separate so you can custom cut it to length. Hope that helps. Thanks for the question
Glue those fir strips so they can take weight.
Why did you shim the risers out instead of just slotting the cap a tread over the existing nosing?
These treads are only an inch thick, and the existing treads are an inch and a half. They make a style that is 1 1/2 inches, but for some reason, they don't make that style with a return for open-ended steps. I'm not sure why. So, if you have open-ended steps, your choices are to cut off the nose on all of them or fur them out and run the riser up to the top so the capa tread completely covers the top of the risers. Hope that helps. Thanks for the question
Where can I buy the return nose
There are 2 types of stair covers. Type 1, which is for 1 inch treads. Type 2, which is for 1 1/2 inch treads. The returns only come in the type 2 treads. You can special order them from Home Depot. That's what we have to do,and also you need to specify whether you need a right hand or left hand return. Hope that gulps. Thanks for the question
Where do I buy the return piece ?
When you buy the return step, it comes with the side piece so you can custom fit it for your situation. Hope that helps. Thanks for the question
Oh gotcha they don't make the color I bought with a Return
@jarred1608 yeah I can't remember, but I believe they only make type 1 with a return. That doesn't make sense. Should have it for both. Do you have any lvp that match in color. If so you could make your own
Where can find the return nose
The return is only available in the type 2 cap-a-tread. Not I the 1 inch. Which is type 1. Y I h can order them or check floor & decor if home dedoesnt have them. Hope that helps.
Why not show how you get that miter on the tread
Just neeto make sure the side is flat with nothing bumping out. Hope that helps
Can you gel stain these?
I don't think it would stain very well. a laminate veneer. I imagine they would somewhat stain, but I'm not sure if it would be results you are looking for. Try a test piece 1st. Hope that helps. Thanks for the question
I’m asking for help from other contractors on here that hopefully see this. I think I’m getting shafted by this subcontracting company. 14 steps at $7.50 = $105.00 for labor. I’m spending way more in glue. That alone tells me I’m right but I need the community to hear me out. I’ve researched all over the internet , consulted with other flooring stores and the average per tread alone is anywhere from $50 to $120 depending on the contractor respectively. Stairs are no joke especially when done right. I know you guys don’t like talking about your prices like a chef discussing his recipes but for the love of the flooring gods please help. I need some feedback from my fellow contractors out there.
Right now, if someone asked me to do a set of steps. We charge $75 per step. If the customer wants to pull all staples, pad , and carpet, we'll do it for $60 dollars a step. If I have to do custom work like staining to match existing flooring or boxing in open-ended steps, we charge $100. People play doctor all the time but don't get doctor results. So if they wants to play carpenter, let them. But if they want quality they need to pay you what your worth. And you are worth way more than you think, or he would nt be calling you. The company is probably charging 50 bucks a step and paying you 7.50 I had a big flooring company do that to me. I was the only one that would do steps and I did them good
So when I found out how much They were charging versus what they were paying me. I Understood why. I told them no more steps and all of a sudden. I got a pay raise. Also there is a guy on youtube. Check out his video. ua-cam.com/video/VSOUIg8fWhw/v-deo.html good to watch if yoU are a contractor struggling with prices. Good luck buddy. I'd love to know how it turns out. Also do you have a yt channel. You should record your process. Stairs are big on youtube. Make some extra money that keeps paying you. I'll definitely subscribe to help you out. Thanks for the question
@@YOUFLOOR Thank you so much. I knew something was off. Maybe I will start doing some videos in the future. Could be fun.
I screwed up. Didn't pay close enough attention to you shimming the riser out to the front to the step. I should sent you pics of how bad I screwed up. I took off the steps, put osb in, bla bla bla there was slate glued to the front. I wasted sooo much time. But I jam sawed out the skirt, like an idiot. should have watched this 3 times.
Sorry to hear about theses issues . I’ve made many mistakes myself. It how we gain experience.
I’m asking for help from other contractors on here. I think I’m getting shafted by this subcontracting company. 14 steps at $7.50 = $105.00 for labor. I’ve researched all over the internet and the average per tread alone is anywhere from $50 to $120 depending on the contractor respectively. I know you guys don’t like talking about your prices like a chef discussing his recipes but for the love of the flooring gods please help.
Then BTC, contractor knows...
should have used a white riser, would have looked much nicer
I 100% agree. I tried to tell them but they insisted on color matching. I think the white pops off of the baseboard and skirt boards much nicer. Thanks for the comment
Please, how much cost this wood?
Were can I find?
It varies but you can find them at home depot or floor and decor. Look up capatread on Amazon.com you might find them there too
This dude’s, talking about crispy side pieces, while in the same video, referring to a chopsaw as a miter saw. Tighten up. Don’t be a square…
It's actually called a miter saw
@Dixie_Normous212 Always a wise ass looking to be clever. It's a miter saw dude. You're the one who's got the saw types wrong....
Thanks. Some people think they are slick and don't even know they are wrong. Thanks for the comment
@@YOUFLOOR you poor r e t a r d s and I thought they said ignorance is bliss