I learned about using wide angle lenses by watching UA-cam videos on Real Estate Photography where keeping the camera/lens level, not just horizontally, but also vertically and keeping the primary point of interest in the center of the frame, is crucial. So I applied that knowledge to all types of photography since.
I work at a local park where there are lots of floodplains and standing water, and I can tell you you're absolutely right when you say "mosquitoes suck!" The river's a great place for sunrise and sunset shots, though.
"Boom, Shakalaka, SHakaLaka ,Shaka BOOM"! Correctness, the subject proportions relating to the background and horizon, knowing your camera to adapt mechanisms, feeling the aesthetics, and engaging your model into relaxed movements and posing with some side humor = the best results! Exactly! No one other than Jason Lanier creates these! = 6:03
Jason, Great video and everything that you have said is gospel truth. However, you are also using that Canon 11-24 mm f4 EF L lens that has a design that better corrects for the distortion than most other lenses in this category. I love the fact that you are able to effectively use this lens on the A7IV. I have been using my EF L lenses on the Sony A7iii with the Metabones V adapter thanks to your tips since before Canon had a decent mirrorless body. I am now trying to decide whether I should move to the R Mount Canon bodies or get the A7iv . I am primarily a stills photography shooter and I am looking to the future where 10 bit video capture and still frame extraction is likely to be important.
Fab video Jason 👊. But why use the canon lens when you can use a native lens. I have the sigma 14-24 f2.8 which is sharp as anything and going to try that on my next shoot. Thanks bro and see you in London 😎
it might sound stupid but I'm bit confused with distortion areas in vertical portraits.. These distortion zones happen on sides, same as in a horizontal shot or they are on top and bottom of the frame? Thanks a lot for letting me know. Cheers!
Great video but ...NO ROTOLIGHT ?? ;-) This is what I always pray, portraits with a wide angle lenses CAN BE DONE but with some knowledge about the distortion areas. Great you are showing some good examples. Thanks for sharing. O, yeah, she is adorable !
Instead of the Canon 11-24mm f4 how about the Sony 12-24mm f/2.8 or f/4 or even wider Voigtlander 10mm f/5.6 which is great for a pano image or the forgotten little guy the E 10-18mm f/4 OSS APS-C (16-27mm) BUT 12-18mm in full frame mode (18 if you remove the light shield) with one shot all have less distortion. Yes super wides get a lot in the frame and yes have to be level. The nice thing also is things that are far away are tack sharp even at night but if you use small center focus on a close subject you get the bokeh/blur. They are used at night doing milky way to get the vertical long way fully in the frame but again the nice thing is that buildings 20 miles away on the horizon are tack sharp at 200% as well as plants or sand right under the camera. But you hit nail to use the super ultra wide your subject has to be close and centered either inside or out to give perspective of what is around even though distance things appear to be soooo far away. What has to be reminded is if you want everything from right to left that you see as you move your eyes and see in a peripheral vision in a grander shot is to do a pano and a multi level with a longer mm or even just a 35 or 50 to get things closer and in a 3:2 result. A camera sees more than the eye but we see with also peripheral vision but not clearly a few degrees left or right example while driving look at the car in front at the licence plate it will be clear BUT the tail lights and most of the rear are blurry, so you think that big sky sunset is all in focus but NOT and you get the whole sky clearly from side to side with a camera. But even looking and a print on the wall or in your hand you scan with eyes from side to side THINKING it is all clear and in focus to you. It is like when we see the moon in the low sky we also see the foreground in our peripheral vision BUT no lens can capture both the large moon as we see it as well the foreground only with some trickery.
Great video on showing how one can employ a super side to benefit the image! Can you divulge how you achived the incredibe tonality? (or do you want to keep that your secret ;-} )
((( Rotolight / Sony Pocket Flash Important Information ))) Hello for all of the individuals that are looking at Rotolight EOS 3 & the NEO 2 and wondering if this product is for you let me give you some information that might help you make a Better / Proper decision. I will be directing my comments about the EOS 3 and the NEO 2. If you are working in a controlled environment like a studio where you have absolute control over your lighting. Or if you are doing videography in a low light situation. Or if you are shooting outdoors in a very gloomy or cloudy day and you are OK with your lights only being 3 to 4 feet from your subject. Then these two lights will work perfectly fine for you. But if you are working in an environment where there is a significant amount of window light or your environment has a sufficient amount of lighting provided. You will find that these lights are extremely limited. If you notice they never use a light meter indicating to their viewers the strength or the lack of strength the lights provide. That all being said I have to give the lights credit where credit is due they do have amazing technology incredible technology wrapped up in these lights. It is the power of the lights that I have an issue with and only the power. I was sucked in by all of the technology and truly did not realize the environment that they were using the lights in. Either in a very dark environment or very low lit environment. Even when they use them outdoors notice that the environment is very gloomy or cloudy. It is never a bright sunny day. I will now give you the Data on why I have expressed such comments. I purchased both the EOS 3 and the NEO 2 and when I started working with them I was confused by the lack of power coming from the constant light that these lights provided. I thought at first that it was just my imagination maybe I was doing something wrong. So I lowered the lighting in my studio so that my light meter was reading at 1.00 F stop for light in my studio which means the lighting in my studio was extremely low having no effect on my testing. Then I set my camera at 250th our second and my ISO at 1000. I then put both the NEO 2 and my Sony pocket flash to 5 feet exactly from my light meter that was set on a stand. I set my NEO 2 at 1/50 of a second which is what they recommend and I have it set at max plus Power. And the Calvin is at 4800 and the modeling light was set at 40%. These are the exact settings for every test I made with all of the Rotolights that I tested. I then set the Constant light on the EOS 2 at 100% and received a F stop of 6.3 I then triggered the flash off on the EOS 2, and I received a 7.0 F stop. I then set my Sony pocket flash off at 1/32 of a second to receive 6.3 F-stop to match the power of the EOS 2. Then I removed the First EOS 2 and installed the second EOS 2 in its place and did the exact same Constant Lighting and Flash settings and received the exact same results. I then installed the NEO 3 at 100% on constant lighting at all of the exact same settings, never moving from 5 feet and I received a 4.5 F stop. With the data that I have provided I have shown that the EOS 3 and the NEO 2 are less than half the power of a pocket flash. And if that’s the case then they should notify or inform their viewers or purchasers of such information. So such individuals can make a proper decision on their purchase. ((( I reached out to Rotolight and here was a response ! Hi Patrick, Depending on your flash meter some do have problems reading LED flash that might be an issue but without knowing what you are using it hard to know. Also where are you taking the flash reading flash meters are designed to take direct only light so you need to measure from ½ way between the edge of the badge and rim of the light, if you measure from the centre of the light it will give you incorrect results. With the Pro lights we have pushed the constant light, but the flash should still be a bit brighter, I believe it is about 2/3 stop, if you are testing on 1/250s them you will not get the full power of the flash it has a 1/50s duration. Something sounds wrong as at 6ft, I would expect f6.3 at ISO 100 without the dome, we test at 1/60s and mid pit of the light around 4600K. Basically Rotolight is acknowledging that my information might be slightly off but we are still looking at Half of the power of a pocket flash. And if I would have known that I would not have purchased the lights. I personally feel we are being misled to some degree. ))) I have given you a link below of an individual that has pretty much done the same testing as I have. I think mine was a little bit more precise. That being said I would watch the video all the way through so you’re able to come to your own conclusion. ua-cam.com/video/zFNGbkmG1sU/v-deo.html
I learned about using wide angle lenses by watching UA-cam videos on Real Estate Photography where keeping the camera/lens level, not just horizontally, but also vertically and keeping the primary point of interest in the center of the frame, is crucial. So I applied that knowledge to all types of photography since.
Absolutely my man
Model was epically beautiful, good video..;)
Haha! She’s so cute!
Hoping to see you come to Cleveland!
I’ve been keeping an eye out for that!
Thank you so much and I’d love to make it out there
I work at a local park where there are lots of floodplains and standing water, and I can tell you you're absolutely right when you say "mosquitoes suck!" The river's a great place for sunrise and sunset shots, though.
my favourite photographer on youtube
"Boom, Shakalaka, SHakaLaka ,Shaka BOOM"! Correctness, the subject proportions relating to the background and horizon, knowing your camera to adapt mechanisms, feeling the aesthetics, and engaging your model into relaxed movements and posing with some side humor = the best results! Exactly! No one other than Jason Lanier creates these! = 6:03
BTW, looking healthy and smart, Sir! Great "crazy shoot" and model!
Just bought a 24 f1.4 to try some of this stuff. Thanks for the tips.
You’re welcome my man
The smallest things can make the biggest difference. Keep grindn' bro!
Fantastic video Jason. Keep up the good work. Looking forward to your workshop schedule
Great video and always a shout out to Alyssa she is a true gem. Use Repellent.
Great tutorial! I have a 12-24mm DX zoom lens which is an 18-35mm perspective on my full frame Nikon...your tips are right on time! :)
Jason,
Great video and everything that you have said is gospel truth. However, you are also using that Canon 11-24 mm f4 EF L lens that has a design that better corrects for the distortion than most other lenses in this category. I love the fact that you are able to effectively use this lens on the A7IV. I have been using my EF L lenses on the Sony A7iii with the Metabones V adapter thanks to your tips since before Canon had a decent mirrorless body. I am now trying to decide whether I should move to the R Mount Canon bodies or get the A7iv . I am primarily a stills photography shooter and I am looking to the future where 10 bit video capture and still frame extraction is likely to be important.
Learned something new. Thank you sensei.
You’re so welcome my brother
Where's the Aeos 2? I was surprised to not see it.
Fantastic video as always, will definitely keep this in mind.
Great shoot, love me a wide angle environmental portrait!
This is great, thank you Jason!
Great video. Jason, you do some really great work!
Is that a metabones 5 adapter Jason?? Love your tuts.
Thank you! I have the hardest time with wide angle portraiture!!!
Love your work. Regards from Australia 🇦🇺
Thank you my friend!
YOU'RE THE BEST.
Fab video Jason 👊. But why use the canon lens when you can use a native lens. I have the sigma 14-24 f2.8 which is sharp as anything and going to try that on my next shoot. Thanks bro and see you in London 😎
Awesome stuff as always brotha man!
I love shooting wide... great video & tips
Nice. Also a beautiful location.
it might sound stupid but I'm bit confused with distortion areas in vertical portraits..
These distortion zones happen on sides, same as in a horizontal shot or they are on top and bottom of the frame?
Thanks a lot for letting me know.
Cheers!
Great video but ...NO ROTOLIGHT ?? ;-)
This is what I always pray, portraits with a wide angle lenses CAN BE DONE but with some knowledge about the distortion areas.
Great you are showing some good examples.
Thanks for sharing.
O, yeah, she is adorable !
Thank you my man. And yes she is
get you a ThermoCell! They work awesome to get rid of mosquitos!
Yeah no doubt. They're horrible lol
Essential gear
Great! Greetings from Belgium 🇧🇪
Hi Jason....I still confusing using wide angle, must learn your vidio
Fantastic job, JL! Where are you, looks like Thailand!
Thank you! It sure does right? I hope to bring a group here soon.
Thank you. That was very helpful. 👍
great tips and demonstration!
hi , are you using your Iphone to Vlog and Behind the scene shot ?
Great video and good advice
Instead of the Canon 11-24mm f4 how about the Sony 12-24mm f/2.8 or f/4 or even wider Voigtlander 10mm f/5.6 which is great for a pano image or the forgotten little guy the E 10-18mm f/4 OSS APS-C (16-27mm) BUT 12-18mm in full frame mode (18 if you remove the light shield) with one shot all have less distortion. Yes super wides get a lot in the frame and yes have to be level. The nice thing also is things that are far away are tack sharp even at night but if you use small center focus on a close subject you get the bokeh/blur. They are used at night doing milky way to get the vertical long way fully in the frame but again the nice thing is that buildings 20 miles away on the horizon are tack sharp at 200% as well as plants or sand right under the camera.
But you hit nail to use the super ultra wide your subject has to be close and centered either inside or out to give perspective of what is around even though distance things appear to be soooo far away. What has to be reminded is if you want everything from right to left that you see as you move your eyes and see in a peripheral vision in a grander shot is to do a pano and a multi level with a longer mm or even just a 35 or 50 to get things closer and in a 3:2 result. A camera sees more than the eye but we see with also peripheral vision but not clearly a few degrees left or right example while driving look at the car in front at the licence plate it will be clear BUT the tail lights and most of the rear are blurry, so you think that big sky sunset is all in focus but NOT and you get the whole sky clearly from side to side with a camera. But even looking and a print on the wall or in your hand you scan with eyes from side to side THINKING it is all clear and in focus to you. It is like when we see the moon in the low sky we also see the foreground in our peripheral vision BUT no lens can capture both the large moon as we see it as well the foreground only with some trickery.
well explained l. thanks
What about 20mm 35mm lens with distortion ?
And by any chance there workshop around UK next month Sept ?
Great stuff. 👍🏻
Thank you!
what about when you snap a photo and something is near the edges of screen top rite bottom ect dont that distort pictures some what to?
Great video.
Thank you so much
Super Information for me. Thx 😉
so amazing,,,,
Thank you my man!
Great ! Thanks .
Thank you and you're welcome!
2:16 video starts here
Great video on showing how one can employ a super side to benefit the image! Can you divulge how you achived the incredibe tonality? (or do you want to keep that your secret ;-} )
Badass
Thank you my friend
Super ☺
You’re right chest height is beautiful.
🙏🏻👍🏻
I don’t know where to categorize JL. There’s something a bit too casual and annoying about him and yet gentlemanly about him that is attractive
How can I find a good low light lens WITH distortion? Anyone know?
cup D to cup Z!
((( Rotolight / Sony Pocket Flash Important Information )))
Hello for all of the individuals that are looking at Rotolight EOS 3 & the NEO 2 and wondering if this product is for you let me give you some information that might help you make a Better / Proper decision. I will be directing my comments about the EOS 3 and the NEO 2. If you are working in a controlled environment like a studio where you have absolute control over your lighting. Or if you are doing videography in a low light situation. Or if you are shooting outdoors in a very gloomy or cloudy day and you are OK with your lights only being 3 to 4 feet from your subject. Then these two lights will work perfectly fine for you.
But if you are working in an environment where there is a significant amount of window light or your environment has a sufficient amount of lighting provided. You will find that these lights are extremely limited. If you notice they never use a light meter indicating to their viewers the strength or the lack of strength the lights provide.
That all being said I have to give the lights credit where credit is due they do have amazing technology incredible technology wrapped up in these lights. It is the power of the lights that I have an issue with and only the power.
I was sucked in by all of the technology and truly did not realize the environment that they were using the lights in. Either in a very dark environment or very low lit environment. Even when they use them outdoors notice that the environment is very gloomy or cloudy. It is never a bright sunny day.
I will now give you the Data on why I have expressed such comments. I purchased both the EOS 3 and the NEO 2 and when I started working with them I was confused by the lack of power coming from the constant light that these lights provided. I thought at first that it was just my imagination maybe I was doing something wrong.
So I lowered the lighting in my studio so that my light meter was reading at 1.00 F stop for light in my studio which means the lighting in my studio was extremely low having no effect on my testing. Then I set my camera at 250th our second and my ISO at 1000. I then put both the NEO 2 and my Sony pocket flash to 5 feet exactly from my light meter that was set on a stand. I set my NEO 2 at 1/50 of a second which is what they recommend and I have it set at max plus Power. And the Calvin is at 4800 and the modeling light was set at 40%.
These are the exact settings for every test I made with all of the Rotolights that I tested.
I then set the Constant light on the EOS 2 at 100% and received a F stop of 6.3
I then triggered the flash off on the EOS 2, and I received a 7.0 F stop.
I then set my Sony pocket flash off at 1/32 of a second to receive 6.3 F-stop to match the power of the EOS 2.
Then I removed the First EOS 2 and installed the second EOS 2 in its place and did the exact same Constant Lighting and Flash settings and received the exact same results.
I then installed the NEO 3 at 100% on constant lighting at all of the exact same settings, never moving from 5 feet and I received a 4.5 F stop.
With the data that I have provided I have shown that the EOS 3 and the NEO 2 are less than half the power of a pocket flash. And if that’s the case then they should notify or inform their viewers or purchasers of such information. So such individuals can make a proper decision on their purchase.
((( I reached out to Rotolight and here was a response !
Hi Patrick,
Depending on your flash meter some do have problems reading LED flash that might be an issue but without knowing what you are using it hard to know. Also where are you taking the flash reading flash meters are designed to take direct only light so you need to measure from ½ way between the edge of the badge and rim of the light, if you measure from the centre of the light it will give you incorrect results.
With the Pro lights we have pushed the constant light, but the flash should still be a bit brighter, I believe it is about 2/3 stop, if you are testing on 1/250s them you will not get the full power of the flash it has a 1/50s duration.
Something sounds wrong as at 6ft, I would expect f6.3 at ISO 100 without the dome, we test at 1/60s and mid pit of the light around 4600K.
Basically Rotolight is acknowledging that my information might be slightly off but we are still looking at Half of the power of a pocket flash. And if I would have known that I would not have purchased the lights. I personally feel we are being misled to some degree. )))
I have given you a link below of an individual that has pretty much done the same testing as I have. I think mine was a little bit more precise. That being said I would watch the video all the way through so you’re able to come to your own conclusion.
ua-cam.com/video/zFNGbkmG1sU/v-deo.html