Howard Hagadorn Wow, thanks! I've been woodworking for 18 years myself, and have made panel doors every conceivable way, and this is by far the easiest I've found. Glad I made the video, and great to hear you found it useful! P
The only person I've seen do that before is me. I'm 60 and started using this method many years ago. I can't remember how or why I came up with it. My father was a lifelong cabinet maker and he didn't use it. Built cabinets for my son's kitchen 2 1/2 years ago. Shaker doors on the bottoms and glass pane doors on the top. Same technique on the rails & stiles but with a rebate on the inside to receive the glass. Used small offset hold down clips to secure the glass in place. Always been the easiest way for me. Through all the years I've never seen anyone else use this method until now.
Just finished making 4 doors for some cabinets using this method. Made them out of solid wood (18mm by 44mm boards for the frame, 7mm tongue and groove cladding for the backing). Don't have a router, so cut the grooves on the table saw (that took a bit of thought!). Worked really well. Thanks Peter.
Thanks to your simple build method I have just finished making 18 MDF doors with a hardboard panel insert. Of all the information I have taken from your video the "loose tenon" is what make the whole process so fast and simple, I can set my router once for every cut and leave it! No bit changes and no trying to find that exact setting again for the same set of doors. My doors included sizes from 23 inches tall to 70 inches tall, the only process I had to add for the longer doors was to extend my top drawer under my bench, lay the door on it and check the straight side of my bench against the length of the door, I do this on both the first stile and then when I'm happy I also do it on the 2nd stile. I check this width with a tape measure before I proceed, this has saved me a lot of stress with trying to square up a big door after full assembly with glue starting to set. I have also changed to Titebond III for the longer working time. I plan to make a video making sure to credit you for your tenon idea.
Hi Greg, and thanks so much for taking the time to comment! Really pleased to hear how your doors went - great stuff - and glad that this old video helped! Just to be clear though, the ‘loose tenon’ method of making doors this way is as old as the hills - I’m just delighted to have been able to bring it to a few more people. 👍👍
@@10MinuteWorkshopI honestly don't know how you'd improve your video Peter. I've just made a test door using your method. I did the hinge cutouts on my CNC machine, and all came out perfectly. Australian MDF doesn't come up to UK standards, but still came out pretty well. Thanks once again.
Getting ready to build kitchen cabinet doors using this method. It's a little more complicated here in the USA, because we don't get 6mm MDF, only true 1/4" MDF. I wasn't able to find a router bit that would make the grooves wide enough to fit the 1/4" stuff, so I will be using the table saw. My saw is home-made and will not accept a dado stack, so I built a jig to help make the grooves in the short ends of the rails. I did a few test pieces today, and while it certainly won't be as elegant a solution as you've come up with, I think it's going to work. Thanks for sharing this technique, Peter! I think the floating tenons are brilliant.
Thanks Josh, and good luck with it! One other option is to use a 1/4” grooving bit in the router, but make two passes, the second one slightly lower. Or with a bit of careful setting up, make a pass from either side to get the slightly wider groove. 👍👍
@@10MinuteWorkshop I ended up using the 1/4" grooving bit and making a pass from both sides of the board, and it worked out beautifully! The setup wasn't as difficult as I thought it might be, and it gave perfectly centered grooves that are only a few thousandths over 1/4". Just enough wiggle room to make glue up go smoothly. It doesn't take too much longer to make 2 passes on each piece, and this method is certainly better than using the table saw and making multiple passes. I built 4 doors for the pantry cabinets, and they look so good I've decided to redo all the kitchen cabinet doors. Thanks again, Peter!
Great video. I have made 19 cabinet doors for our kitchen based on the video. Thanks for sharing the video. I used 18 mm MR mdf for the styles and 9 mm panels. I have rounded all edges before glueing it together.
That's fantastic to hear, really pleased that my video has helped in some way. Bet the last one went quicker than the first! Thanks so much for letting me know! Peter 😃👍
Cheers for the nailer info Peter. The plates were used in the fitted bookshelf video. They were fixed to the back of the carcasses and you drill through the carcasses and through the plates to fix the carcasses to the wall. Cheers Terry
Peter - just to say thank you, I decided to try this method but I have used oak as the frame with a plywood panel. It works beautifully, I don't have a router table so had to cut the slots with a handheld router but they have come out beautifully and very strong with a deep groove and wide tenons. Thanks again - I didn't know about this method and it makes very neat, strong doors.
Just to let you know made my first cabinet door using this method and it has turned out great. Thanks Peter for you help and guidance, so easy to follow
Watching after the restoration couple video on shaker doors as per UA-cam's sidebar! Proof that even after 3 years your older content will still be watched! Thumbs up, I see some true pro clues to your profession here, flip down trap saw. Cover up of router bit hole for dust extraction and timber butted up to stop stripping out. It's clear to see you put a lot of thought into your work Peter. I must say though you look younger in your current videos than you do here! Would would you put that down to ha?!
Many thanks! There's a more up-to-date version of the video here, btw, where I also talk about 'faker-shaker' doors. 👍 ua-cam.com/video/jwGvYsvdCg4/v-deo.html
Hi Peter thanks for the reply I will take a look at the CMT blade, to be honest I think I should just invest in a router table. Anyway I appreciate the advice, happy new year.🎉
I like the. Very straightforward. Far better than the normal mortise and tenons joints. I also like your use of the Fesool track as a boss cut device. I will use both of the ideas.
"panel cut slightly smaller, just to make life easier"... I didn't hear that the first time I attempted this door. Listen to him, he is right it makes life MUCH easier.
This is a great method. I wish I had known about this technique a few weeks ago. I made some cabinet doors for a relative and I had some difficulty with the stub tenon method. This way would have been so much easier! Thank you!
Thank you very much for making this video and all your others, I am blown away by how you explain and make it so look so effortless. I used this to do a project that turned out great and have never commented on a UA-cam video before but I just wanted to express my thanks.
Just finished making some 550 x 2300 three panel doors with ogee beading using the Peter Millard method. Tricky assembly on this scale but they have turned out great. Ogee beading made them suitable for a Victorian style house. Thanks Peter👍
Thanks! Wow, big doors! Glad that turned out well though! And agree, a bit of ogee moulding is all you need to turn Shakers into Victorians, lol! Side note; this was the first video I ever posted, almost exactly 5 years and 4 months ago; if you’d have told me then that it would still be proving useful to people in 5 years time, I’d have laughed out loud! 🙌 Thanks so much for taking the time to comment - really appreciate it. 👍👍
@@10MinuteWorkshop I had started with the idea of using solid panel doors with MDF strips added to get the effect but this method is much better. Lighter doors and you get panel detail both sides. I did also put a small chamfer on the ends of the rails where they butt the styles to give a bit more detail and create a stop point for painting. The top panel had a groove cut below it to create the effect that it was two doors and not one. Only issue with the size (apart from the frantic gluing up and clamping!) was the wobble on the the doors when fitted with a magnetic catch just at the bottom (even with 22mm MR MDF). This was solved by using a catch top and bottom and adjusting the catches so they did not hold the doors too firmly.
Very nice video and work! But also I love your little modified sanding block or disc made out of a discarded(?) sanding pad! I am copying that right away!
@@10MinuteWorkshop Can I ask what the decent stuff is and how you can tell? Does it differ much from merchant to merchant - Thanks and just checked out your website which very nice!
I want his workshop in my garage ! Great vid , that's how you do it people . If you haven't got all these tools though , just cut one peace to the size of your door then cut your styles and rail and stick them on top flush to the edge , your painting them anyway so who's gonna know . I'm not knocking this guy at all he's showing very well how it should be done .
Thanks for reply , I watch #019 , really good and detailed explination of the problems that would occur if done ' the quicker way ' my main reson for suggesting this method is for people like me who don't do much of this type of thing so hence don't have the tools in a purpose built workshop . But hope people concidering the quick way will watch this video and be prepared for the problems . Great vids once again . Keep up the good work
I've now watched more then a few shaker style door videos, and I have to honestly say yours is the simplest and most cost effective. The floating tenon idea made from the same stock as the panel, great idea. No special equipment or expensive power tools to purchase. Great technique and video. One question the router bit you used to cut the slot, same thickness as the panel?
Thanks! This was my first UA-cam video, so pleased to see it’s still useful 👍👍. The slot cutter is slightly thicker than the panel - 1/4” vs 6mm - as this gives a little wiggle-room during assembly - and wiggle-room during a glue-up is always welcome 👍👍
Good video and good method Peter! The last kitchen I built I used mdf with tongue and groove which resulted in too much extra effort. Next time I'll try this method.
I think this was the first of your many videos I watched. I've done them that way, it's better and less material / lighter doors. Still I make stick on ones, but now I've got the triton beast all set up in a table I'll revert to Millard style 😎
What a great way to make Shaker-style doors! Two questions: First, how do you make the rails and stiles to uniform sizes without a table saw? (Both parallel and repeatable). Second, how do you make the loose tenons for the doors? A future project is kitchen cabinets, and your method looks like just the ticket!
Thanks! If I have a lot to do I get my timber yard to rip strips to size for the rails & stiles, but if it’s just the odd one then I use my tracksaw - I set the rail with a combi-square. Loose tenons, I cut strips with the tracksaw and to length on the mitre saw. Works great 👍
That's great thank you for sharing. Last time I made these I overlaid 6mm MDF faux rails and stiles to 12mm MDF but just couldn't get the glue joints tight. This is a much better method.
It gives the option of either having a regular shaker-style door (narrow reveal) or flipping it over to the wider reveal and adding a moulding to make a ‘Victorian’ panel door instead. Not that customers change their minds late in the day or anything... 😬👍
Hi Peter, many thanks for posting this, just finished a Mock-up using some 6 and 18mm MDF offcuts. I had to use an improvised offset 4mm biscuit joint router cutter in my table, then invert the panel to get a finished 6mm slot, 12mm deep in the 18mm, glued up and 'hung' just to see how well it worked. as it turns out, VERY well indeed! Which then got me thinking, ever considered attempting this with 6 and 18 (or 22mm) Birch Ply? That could look rather stunning with a couple of coats of varnish.
+John Williams Pleasure - good to hear it worked well for you! No, I’ve never tried it with Birch Ply, but it is in my ‘one day when I have a minute’ list! Cheers, P 👍
Your microphone and camera set up have come a long way from here Peter 👍🏼😂 been following your from your first few months and always tell other joiners about this video 👍🏼
thanks for taking the time to post these amazing videos, i like your no nonsense approach to getting the job done and can see it comes from years of experience, can you do a follow up on hinges, cheers
Christopher Reid And thank you for watching! Glad you find them useful; the hinges I use are pretty standard concealed soft-close kitchen-cabinet style hinges, so nothing particularly special about them, or fitting them tbh, so I'm not sure I could drag it out into a full video! But sure, I'll take a look and see if I can work something out. Thanks for the suggestion 👍. Cheers P
Hi Peter. Love your videos. Just moved back into a house after living in a motorhome, traveling this country, for 8 years so I need to set up my shop again and it is not overly large. You have convinced me to go the Track Saw route so a couple days ago I bought a Kreg plunge saw and 2 62" tracks. Watching your videos has shown me that I will need a short track for the shop. You are such a good woodsmith that I wonder do you really work in all MDF? I much prefer plywood or solid wood. Will have to look through your videos to see. Hope to become a patron after I am done with setting up this shop. Rich
Hi Rich, and thank you! The Kreg plunge saw looks nice, but not something we get here in the UK AFAIK. Yes, I use mostly MR MDF - this is a different animal to the regular MDF that you may be used to, it has a much harder core and doesn't produce the 'fluffy' finish that seems common amongst other types. I use all kinds, but when most of my work was painted built-ins (this video's from 3 years ago, just FYI) then MR MDF is the perfect board for this. I'm doing a lot less of that kind of work now, and using more Birch ply and also some hardwoods , too - see my last video but one, #369, Birch Ply and Wenge side table. More of this type of thing to come 👍👍
Yay! My first youtube video, still getting views and questions nine years on, lol! No, no issues at all - the panel is the same as the rails and stiles, so there's no movement to be concerned about. 👍
👍 Yes, so I'm beginning understand. It's only since I started doing UA-cam that I've begun to realise (and appreciate) the range of materials we have available here in the UK. Now, if you wanted to discuss hardwood prices, then that may be a different matter... 😂
Good evening Peter I have watched the majority of your videos and by all accounts you seem to have a wealth of experience which seems to have been achieved through experience and trial and error. Its because of this I would really appreciate your opinion and guidance of my future product. I am intended to totally replace my own kitchen and have been looking at using the Howdens Tewkesbury Framed Doors. The ones purchased from Howdens are Oak however i am conscious of the cost and also why I want to order an oak product simply to then choose a painted finish. My intention is to manufacture both the doors and the cabinets myself in MR MDF as I have a suitable sized area to complete the works including the painting and the vast majority of the tools as my father was a Joinery Lecturer at Collage and also a Contractor. Unfortunately he passed 12 years ago so my go to man is no longer here to point me in the right direction. The main questions I have are 1. Cabinets - I was considering using 18mm MR MDF with a 12mm MR MDF back panel. In addition I was considering omitting the 47mm service gap at the rear. What would your opinion be on these thicknesses. The intention is to use pocket holes. In addition to this I am intended to use an airless sprayer to paint both the doors and cabinets. The primer I have considered is Bin Zinsser. My thoughts were to align all the similar size units together in a sandwich and clamp them. Then sand the edge and then use a roller to apply the first coat and then lightly sand. The second coat on the visible edges I then intended to apply via the spray gun whilst applying a coat to the internal faces of the cabinet. At the same time at least applying a single coat to all the hidden edges. I would then apply the final coat of paint to the inner cabinet faces and exposed edges once it has been assembled. Question is does this sound reasonable and how many coats of primer would you suggest and what matt finish coat would you suggest and how many coats. Continued
Hi Darren. There’s an awful lot to deal with here and I don’t want to put you off, but perhaps I can point you to this thread on the UK Workshop forum, where a similar question was posed recently. www.ukworkshop.co.uk/forums/taking-a-plunge-to-kitchen-cabinet-making-t113525.html From the outset I’d also like to make it clear that even though I do this for a living and have a reasonably well set up small workshop, I wouldn’t go near making a complete kitchen from scratch; it’s factory work, best done by automated machinery than can deliver a consistent quality product at a price far cheaper than anything I can make. That said, I totally understand if you want to make this yourself as a project, and have the time and space to do so. So, in answer to your questions:- 18mm MR MDF with a 12mm back is perfectly good enough for the carcasses. I’m not a fan of pocket-hole screws personally, and I would always recommend that you have e.g. £dowels/££biscuits/£££dominos to help with alignment. Zinnser BIN is a fine primer/stainblock, but it is shellac-based product and best suited to spot application IMHO e.g. the edges, if you feel they need it. I would absolutely NOT recommend that you roller the primer if you intend to apply a spray finish; do one of the other, don’t mix them. My methods for painting with a roller have been well documented in the Painting & finishing series, starts video #029, and for spraying in the Playing at Spraying series, starts video #188. In short, I don’t do anything special to the edges, other than sand them. I apply one or two coats of water-based primer/undercoat, followed by two or three coats of the final topcoat - almost always an eggshell or satin finish. I’ve been particularly impressed with Tikkurila Helmi paints, though I find the eggshell a little too matt at just a 10% sheen, where most eggshells are 20%. Otherwise I’ve used all kinds of ‘high street’ paints and found very little to choose between them tbh. Re. the doors, yes a 105mm frame from MR MDF will remain stable, though I would always go for a 22mm thick rail and stile; I regularly use a 6mm panel in this, but I know some prefer a 9mm pane to give more heft to the door, so perhaps consider this for the pantry door? And yes, I would make the door complete before adding the decorative groove. HTH & good luck, Peter
Peter. Many thanks for taking time out of your day to provide the advise that you have which I am sure will be very valuable. I have quite a lot of knowledge of construction and have converted my own barn conversion with the exception of the Gas and Log Fire Installation so have a reasonably good idea of how things always seem to take a lot longer than initially intended. I will certainly take your comments on board. The main reason for wanting to construct the kitchen myself is that there will be a lot of bespoke elements due to beams and columns within the kitchen space and as a result of that I can construct bespoke units to fit the dimensions i have available.
Interesting concept using loose tenons, never seen it done before. What if you were using grained wood and wanted to make floating panels? would the joints be strong enough?
Hello Peter, firstly I really enjoy your videos and have learnt so much. I plan on making some shaker style doors but don't have a router table (I actually own a trim router and a plunge). What is the best way to cut the grooves using a table saw and would you have any advice or tips? Thank you, Paul.
Hi there, and thanks so much! On a table saw the only safe way really is with a flat-topped grooving blade, something like the CMT, come in 6mm and 4mm kerfs here - amzn.to/40fwETB - combined with a jig or a sliding table. Bear in mind you wont be able to have the blade guards in place, so push sticks are essential. I would personally always use a router where possible. 👍
Hi Peter, sorry to bother you with this question, you might have already answered it or not. What is the common width for stiles and rails for shaker doors like these. Thanks for your videos. Greetings from Argentina.
Hi Juan Pablo. I start at around 80mm, but have gone as narrow as 60 and as wide as 100. Bottom rail on taller doors are usually anywhere from 120 - 150mm, though there’s nothing set in stone - just whatever looks right. 👍👍
hi peter been catching up on your vids and find them all very interesting .being a joiner for 35 yrs worked on lots of different things but the one thing i have noticed is that a lot of people glue panels in place i was tought that panels move and if you glue them they may spilt the peice they are glued to i now its mdf but it still moves adout.the only thing i can think of is the door gets its strenth from the panel
+Chris Logan Hiya. These doors certainly get some strength from the panel, but with MR MDF there's effectively no movement. 'Real tree wood' or if the panel is a different material, then sure, I'd leave the panel loose 👍
If it’s a plain door I prefer just a 6-7mm rebate on the face. Also means that if the clients change their minds and decide they want a moulding applied, I can do it on the other side easily, without making new doors - provided they change their minds before the hinge pockets are drilled, of course. 🤔👍
Thanks for a very informative tutorial. From your experience what's the biggest size door you could construct with this method, was considering a large wardrobe door. Thanks again
I have only watched a few of your videos, where you seem to have a preference for using mdf. Do you have a video explaining the different types of engineered panels and where best to use them?
Hi. It's not that I have a preference for MDF, it's just that it's the most appropriate material for 98% of what I do for clients. Sorry, I don't understand what you mean by 'engineered panels' - could you expand?? thanks.
Peter Millard hello again, apologies for the cryptic terminology “engineered panels”. What I’m after is learning when to use mdf, chipboard, plywood or osb. Thanks for the quick reply
Hi Peter. Great video as always. I’ve got to make some doors for some wardobes im building. I want to use this technique but I have 25mm tulip wood for the styles and rails and was going to use 6mm panel as my insert like you have but my doors are bigger. About 1.8m by 590mm. I was told that the 6mm would make it to films and was advised to use 12mm instead. Just wanted to get your thoughts as I’m struggling to find a cutter that will give me the 12.5/12.7mm cut out I need for the 12mm. Thank you
Thanks! Wow, my first ever video, still getting views and questions, lol! Pretty much every door I’ve ever made had a 6mm panel, and had no complaints from customers. You can go thicker if you want, but as you’ve found you’ll struggle to get a 12mm groover so you’ll be into a few passes to make it up. 👍
Thank you Peter. Absolutely wonderful video and carpentry techniques. Subscribed! How would you adapt this for a larger door - say a 2 meter by 45cm wardrobe door? Still strong enough without any screws?
Thanks Graeme! Just FYI there’s an updated version of this video here - ua-cam.com/video/jwGvYsvdCg4/v-deo.html - where I also talk about mock-panel doors. Re the offset groove, there’s two reasons; I think a 6 or 7mm rebate around the door just looks better, personally, and it’s an easy way to see which is the face side of the rails and stiles, because the back has the deeper rebate. 👍👍
Thank you for that reply. I’m about to make a wardrobe and an ‘under the stairs’ cupboard for my daughters new house. Never made this style of door before but your video has explained it perfectly. Thank you very much .... you have the perfect voice for informative video making. 👍🏻
Hi Peter, when I first watched this I wondered why you didn’t 'stop the grooves in the styles and why you routed a groove in the short edge of the rail. It's just dawned on me that the loose tenons actually add an increased gluing surface and do away with the need to use pocket screws or whatever to strengthen the butt joints. Was that the plan?
@@10MinuteWorkshop Having just made 8 doors using regular tenons I now understand why you make your doors this way. I'm definitely going to do it this way next time.
![Painting MDF Doors [video 407]](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/ZIwNJGlVtwc/mqdefault.jpg)
![Lp. Сердце Вселенной #60 РОЖДЕНИЕ ЛОЛОЛОШКИ [Финал] • Майнкрафт](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/YoR0pAV9FVQ/mqdefault.jpg)
I've been woodworking for 40+ years and never thought of this or saw anyone else position loose tenons like this. Amazing!
Howard Hagadorn Wow, thanks! I've been woodworking for 18 years myself, and have made panel doors every conceivable way, and this is by far the easiest I've found. Glad I made the video, and great to hear you found it useful! P
The only person I've seen do that before is me. I'm 60 and started using this method many years ago. I can't remember how or why I came up with it. My father was a lifelong cabinet maker and he didn't use it. Built cabinets for my son's kitchen 2 1/2 years ago. Shaker doors on the bottoms and glass pane doors on the top. Same technique on the rails & stiles but with a rebate on the inside to receive the glass. Used small offset hold down clips to secure the glass in place. Always been the easiest way for me. Through all the years I've never seen anyone else use this method until now.
Just finished making 4 doors for some cabinets using this method. Made them out of solid wood (18mm by 44mm boards for the frame, 7mm tongue and groove cladding for the backing). Don't have a router, so cut the grooves on the table saw (that took a bit of thought!). Worked really well. Thanks Peter.
Thanks to your simple build method I have just finished making 18 MDF doors with a hardboard panel insert. Of all the information I have taken from your video the "loose tenon" is what make the whole process so fast and simple, I can set my router once for every cut and leave it! No bit changes and no trying to find that exact setting again for the same set of doors. My doors included sizes from 23 inches tall to 70 inches tall, the only process I had to add for the longer doors was to extend my top drawer under my bench, lay the door on it and check the straight side of my bench against the length of the door, I do this on both the first stile and then when I'm happy I also do it on the 2nd stile. I check this width with a tape measure before I proceed, this has saved me a lot of stress with trying to square up a big door after full assembly with glue starting to set. I have also changed to Titebond III for the longer working time. I plan to make a video making sure to credit you for your tenon idea.
Hi Greg, and thanks so much for taking the time to comment! Really pleased to hear how your doors went - great stuff - and glad that this old video helped! Just to be clear though, the ‘loose tenon’ method of making doors this way is as old as the hills - I’m just delighted to have been able to bring it to a few more people. 👍👍
Not only is your workmanship A+ you actually take the time to respond to people's comments!
I do my best. And thanks! 👍
The loose tenon idea is genius. Cheers
Wow, that is a much simpler method, may be perfectly fine for my kitchen, thank you for sharing.
Thanks! 👍
The use of the floating tenon makes the measuring of the components easier, a brilliant idea.
Possibly the best woodworking video I've ever seen. Thanks Peter.
Thanks! This was my first ever UA-cam video, and I may be updating it soon! 👍
@@10MinuteWorkshopI honestly don't know how you'd improve your video Peter. I've just made a test door using your method. I did the hinge cutouts on my CNC machine, and all came out perfectly. Australian MDF doesn't come up to UK standards, but still came out pretty well. Thanks once again.
@@robotsnthat Thank you - we'll see! And glad to hear yours worked out OK! 👍
Getting ready to build kitchen cabinet doors using this method. It's a little more complicated here in the USA, because we don't get 6mm MDF, only true 1/4" MDF. I wasn't able to find a router bit that would make the grooves wide enough to fit the 1/4" stuff, so I will be using the table saw. My saw is home-made and will not accept a dado stack, so I built a jig to help make the grooves in the short ends of the rails. I did a few test pieces today, and while it certainly won't be as elegant a solution as you've come up with, I think it's going to work. Thanks for sharing this technique, Peter! I think the floating tenons are brilliant.
Thanks Josh, and good luck with it! One other option is to use a 1/4” grooving bit in the router, but make two passes, the second one slightly lower. Or with a bit of careful setting up, make a pass from either side to get the slightly wider groove. 👍👍
@@10MinuteWorkshop I ended up using the 1/4" grooving bit and making a pass from both sides of the board, and it worked out beautifully! The setup wasn't as difficult as I thought it might be, and it gave perfectly centered grooves that are only a few thousandths over 1/4". Just enough wiggle room to make glue up go smoothly. It doesn't take too much longer to make 2 passes on each piece, and this method is certainly better than using the table saw and making multiple passes. I built 4 doors for the pantry cabinets, and they look so good I've decided to redo all the kitchen cabinet doors. Thanks again, Peter!
@@thegrublord Hi Josh! That's great to hear, thanks so much for letting me know! 👍
Great video. I have made 19 cabinet doors for our kitchen based on the video. Thanks for sharing the video. I used 18 mm MR mdf for the styles and 9 mm panels. I have rounded all edges before glueing it together.
That's fantastic to hear, really pleased that my video has helped in some way. Bet the last one went quicker than the first! Thanks so much for letting me know! Peter 😃👍
Excellent video! Great! Fast! Polite! You made it look so easy and simple! Thank you!
Cheers for the nailer info Peter. The plates were used in the fitted bookshelf video. They were fixed to the back of the carcasses and you drill through the carcasses and through the plates to fix the carcasses to the wall. Cheers Terry
treesa greensa Ah, OK. They're regular 'corner plates' from Screwfix, I think, maybe Toolstation. Widely available, anyway 👍
You really impressed me at 1:19 by drawing the groove lines... 👍
Thanks! Back then I needed all the reminders I could get... 😆👍
A perfectly effortless straight line by hand 😍
@@thefilthelement use your finger as a guide along the edge, the depth and consistently still take quite a bit of skill.
@@teeemm9456 pretty standard drywall technique,
Hi Peter
Yes its me again mate, still catching up on some of your older stuff. Love how you made theses Great video mate & thank you 👍👍👍👍
Thanks Carl! First video published as part of this 12-month experiment - published 5 years ago last week! 😂
@@10MinuteWorkshop
Well it looks like Iv got a lot of catching up to do
It will be like a bloody big box set lol 😝
Peter - just to say thank you, I decided to try this method but I have used oak as the frame with a plywood panel. It works beautifully, I don't have a router table so had to cut the slots with a handheld router but they have come out beautifully and very strong with a deep groove and wide tenons.
Thanks again - I didn't know about this method and it makes very neat, strong doors.
That’s fantastic - really pleased that it worked out for you. And yes, it’s a great, simple approach to cabinet doors 👍
I was going to ask if this could be done without a table router, so thanks for confirming it can :-) I imagine it's not quite as quick or easy?
@@markredshaw84 It definitely isn't but I used the vice to provide extra stability/width for the router to move against and it worked out.
Just to let you know made my first cabinet door using this method and it has turned out great. Thanks Peter for you help and guidance, so easy to follow
Tim Moran That's great news! Really pleased the video helped 👍
Dropped into my "recommended "... 🙄🤭
Ahhh happy memories .. 🤗
Still a classic almost 3 years later !
Ya've come a long way Pete !!
😎☘👍🍺
Haha! I'm going to have to watch it myself now! Yes, my first video on UA-cam - the first are always your worst, so they say 🤷♂️
Oh wow - that audio! 😱Still, almost 400k views the shonky sound clearly hasn't held me back, lol! 😂👍
@@10MinuteWorkshop I remember watchin that first vid when it came out & immediately subbing on the strength of it .. 😎☘👍
Woah! Clearly a man of extreme patience, Peter. 😂👍👍
@@10MinuteWorkshop
😂😂😂
😎👍☘🍺
Superb video. Used these doors on 2 projects now and it's worked a treat.
Thanks! 👍
The loose tennons are brilliant. Thanks for posting!
Thanks! Yes, they work really well 👍👍
Brilliant set up.
True craftsman.
Thank you! My first UA-cam video! 👍👍
Watching after the restoration couple video on shaker doors as per UA-cam's sidebar!
Proof that even after 3 years your older content will still be watched!
Thumbs up, I see some true pro clues to your profession here, flip down trap saw. Cover up of router bit hole for dust extraction and timber butted up to stop stripping out.
It's clear to see you put a lot of thought into your work Peter.
I must say though you look younger in your current videos than you do here! Would would you put that down to ha?!
Haha, thanks! Must be the clean living. Either that, or the drinking. 🤷♂️🍻👍
Love the hinged festool track!
Thanks! It’s an off-the-shelf Festool MFT or Multi-function table & the hinged rail comes as standard. See videos #182 and #183 for more details. 👍👍
Brilliantly simple and very well presented
Many thanks! There's a more up-to-date version of the video here, btw, where I also talk about 'faker-shaker' doors. 👍 ua-cam.com/video/jwGvYsvdCg4/v-deo.html
Hi Peter thanks for the reply I will take a look at the CMT blade, to be honest I think I should just invest in a router table. Anyway I appreciate the advice, happy new year.🎉
Great video Peter, thanks for making it. I just made two doors today following this method. Worked perfectly. Keep posting! You are appreciated. .
+zowyadoinbeb That's fantastic, thanks!
I like the. Very straightforward. Far better than the normal mortise and tenons joints. I also like your use of the Fesool track as a boss cut device. I will use both of the ideas.
Thanks! 👍
Best and simplest videos about mdf shaker door construction on this channel! Well done 👍🏻 cheers!
+Pawel Janiak Thanks! 👍
"panel cut slightly smaller, just to make life easier"... I didn't hear that the first time I attempted this door. Listen to him, he is right it makes life MUCH easier.
Thanks Peter. Just made a sample one. Took less than 20 minutes 👍🏻😎
Nice! Good to know my first ever UA-cam vid is still delivering, lol! 😂👍👍
Great idea for the loose tenons.....
This is a great method. I wish I had known about this technique a few weeks ago. I made some cabinet doors for a relative and I had some difficulty with the stub tenon method. This way would have been so much easier! Thank you!
Thanks! 👍
Thank you very much for making this video and all your others, I am blown away by how you explain and make it so look so effortless. I used this to do a project that turned out great and have never commented on a UA-cam video before but I just wanted to express my thanks.
My pleasure - I’m delighted that my little video has helped, and good to hear your project worked out well. Thanks! 👍
Just finished making some 550 x 2300 three panel doors with ogee beading using the Peter Millard method. Tricky assembly on this scale but they have turned out great. Ogee beading made them suitable for a Victorian style house. Thanks Peter👍
Thanks! Wow, big doors! Glad that turned out well though! And agree, a bit of ogee moulding is all you need to turn Shakers into Victorians, lol! Side note; this was the first video I ever posted, almost exactly 5 years and 4 months ago; if you’d have told me then that it would still be proving useful to people in 5 years time, I’d have laughed out loud! 🙌 Thanks so much for taking the time to comment - really appreciate it. 👍👍
@@10MinuteWorkshop I had started with the idea of using solid panel doors with MDF strips added to get the effect but this method is much better. Lighter doors and you get panel detail both sides. I did also put a small chamfer on the ends of the rails where they butt the styles to give a bit more detail and create a stop point for painting. The top panel had a groove cut below it to create the effect that it was two doors and not one. Only issue with the size (apart from the frantic gluing up and clamping!) was the wobble on the the doors when fitted with a magnetic catch just at the bottom (even with 22mm MR MDF). This was solved by using a catch top and bottom and adjusting the catches so they did not hold the doors too firmly.
Great idea well explained
Very nice video and work! But also I love your little modified sanding block or disc made out of a discarded(?) sanding pad! I am copying that right away!
Thanks! Yes, that and a whole host of others in my Sanding Tips Video #028 👍
I've never seen it done this way. Absolutely brilliant!
Thanks! 👍
I'm going to be rebuilding all my master bath cabinet doors in this style. The video will help a ton, thanks!
BronkBuilt Great stuff - let us know how it goes 👍
Hi Peter - Thanks for these videos. I made a 'test' door yesterday and it turned out a treat. Am going to try the raised panel one next.
Fantastic! Really pleased that the vids have helped 👍
Americans don't use much MDF. I'm glad I found your video!
No, and they can struggle to get the decent stuff, sadly. 🤷♂️👍
@@10MinuteWorkshop Can I ask what the decent stuff is and how you can tell? Does it differ much from merchant to merchant - Thanks and just checked out your website which very nice!
Love this! About to start a bedroom fit and I will be using this method!
Thanks! 👍👍
That's a great loose tenon trick. I've seen it done that way before. I usually just use dowels. I'll have to try this.
Thanks! It's easy because you're already running a groove for the panel, you just run it a little further. P
I want his workshop in my garage ! Great vid , that's how you do it people . If you haven't got all these tools though , just cut one peace to the size of your door then cut your styles and rail and stick them on top flush to the edge , your painting them anyway so who's gonna know . I'm not knocking this guy at all he's showing very well how it should be done .
Thanks. See also video #019 - More on Doors (and why I don’t make them this way) 👍👍
Thanks for reply , I watch #019 , really good and detailed explination of the problems that would occur if done ' the quicker way ' my main reson for suggesting this method is for people like me who don't do much of this type of thing so hence don't have the tools in a purpose built workshop . But hope people concidering the quick way will watch this video and be prepared for the problems . Great vids once again . Keep up the good work
Excellent video, been making same type of doors out of mdf for years.
John MacNeil Thanks!
I've now watched more then a few shaker style door videos, and I have to honestly say yours is the simplest and most cost effective. The floating tenon idea made from the same stock as the panel, great idea. No special equipment or expensive power tools to purchase. Great technique and video. One question the router bit you used to cut the slot, same thickness as the panel?
Thanks! This was my first UA-cam video, so pleased to see it’s still useful 👍👍. The slot cutter is slightly thicker than the panel - 1/4” vs 6mm - as this gives a little wiggle-room during assembly - and wiggle-room during a glue-up is always welcome 👍👍
@@10MinuteWorkshop times when it is useful to have metric and imperial measurements. 🤓😂😎
Wow! You make it look so easy. Thanks for sharing your talent.
So simple. Love your work👍
Good video and good method Peter! The last kitchen I built I used mdf with tongue and groove which resulted in too much extra effort. Next time I'll try this method.
Thanks! Be sure to check out the rest of my vids - I've done a couple more door types since this one.
I think this was the first of your many videos I watched.
I've done them that way, it's better and less material / lighter doors.
Still I make stick on ones, but now I've got the triton beast all set up in a table I'll revert to Millard style 😎
Sounds good Michael! 🙌 👍
Hi, Where did you get your slot cutting bit from?
There's a link at the bottom of Peter Millards video on shaker doors
@@michaelburton4521 cheers I did check it out but it's out of stock. I managed to find a slightly different one from Rutland's.
That “chop” saw! Great set up!
+sTu 3pldeuce Thanks! 👍
Peter Millard Perhaps we can see a bit more about the setup of the tool in future video?
Alan Pinho Not a great deal of ‘setup’ involved tbh - I go into a little more detail in my ‘shop tour video, if you want to check that out 👍
Love the guide on the router table
Yes, this looks very safe and stable.
What a great way to make Shaker-style doors! Two questions: First, how do you make the rails and stiles to uniform sizes without a table saw? (Both parallel and repeatable). Second, how do you make the loose tenons for the doors? A future project is kitchen cabinets, and your method looks like just the ticket!
Thanks! If I have a lot to do I get my timber yard to rip strips to size for the rails & stiles, but if it’s just the odd one then I use my tracksaw - I set the rail with a combi-square. Loose tenons, I cut strips with the tracksaw and to length on the mitre saw. Works great 👍
Thanks, Peter! So simple!
Super simple, never considered loose tennon previously. (I'm new to this stuff clearly)
Thanks! 👍
That's great thank you for sharing. Last time I made these I overlaid 6mm MDF faux rails and stiles to 12mm MDF but just couldn't get the glue joints tight. This is a much better method.
One Man Band Woodworks Thanks! Yes, works well for me; I've done another couple of door videos since this one, you might want to check them out too.👍
Omg Peter i love watching this video you make is so simple and easy to understand. Thank you sir
Thank you! My first ever UA-cam video from 3 years ago! 😂👍👍
@@10MinuteWorkshop Peter can i ask why you cut the grove slightly of centre of the work peice ?
It gives the option of either having a regular shaker-style door (narrow reveal) or flipping it over to the wider reveal and adding a moulding to make a ‘Victorian’ panel door instead. Not that customers change their minds late in the day or anything... 😬👍
Nice work, you make it look so easy.
+D Dixon Thanks! It mostly is - I can do it, after all 😆 👍
thanks for the video; I'm going to try and make shutters using this method.
Nice! Let me know how you get on 👍
A true master of this craft. The pencil lines seemed pretty much parallel.
Riza Khan Thank you! P
Hi Peter, many thanks for posting this, just finished a Mock-up using some 6 and 18mm MDF offcuts. I had to use an improvised offset 4mm biscuit joint router cutter in my table, then invert the panel to get a finished 6mm slot, 12mm deep in the 18mm, glued up and 'hung' just to see how well it worked. as it turns out, VERY well indeed!
Which then got me thinking, ever considered attempting this with 6 and 18 (or 22mm) Birch Ply? That could look rather stunning with a couple of coats of varnish.
+John Williams Pleasure - good to hear it worked well for you! No, I’ve never tried it with Birch Ply, but it is in my ‘one day when I have a minute’ list! Cheers, P 👍
22mm MR MDF - rail & stile
6mm panel
1/4” grooving bit
18mm deep groove
Your microphone and camera set up have come a long way from here Peter 👍🏼😂 been following your from your first few months and always tell other joiners about this video 👍🏼
Haha! Glad you noticed! My first UA-cam video, shot this on my phone, no mic; still one of my most-watched videos. 👍👍
I bet you never thought you would still be here, more advanced and killing it 👍🏼💪🏼
great video
john watkins Thanks! P
thanks for taking the time to post these amazing videos, i like your no nonsense approach to getting the job done and can see it comes from years of experience, can you do a follow up on hinges, cheers
Christopher Reid And thank you for watching! Glad you find them useful; the hinges I use are pretty standard concealed soft-close kitchen-cabinet style hinges, so nothing particularly special about them, or fitting them tbh, so I'm not sure I could drag it out into a full video! But sure, I'll take a look and see if I can work something out. Thanks for the suggestion 👍. Cheers P
Thanks for demonstrating
Pleasure 👍👍
Hi Peter. Love your videos. Just moved back into a house after living in a motorhome, traveling this country, for 8 years so I need to set up my shop again and it is not overly large. You have convinced me to go the Track Saw route so a couple days ago I bought a Kreg plunge saw and 2 62" tracks. Watching your videos has shown me that I will need a short track for the shop. You are such a good woodsmith that I wonder do you really work in all MDF? I much prefer plywood or solid wood. Will have to look through your videos to see. Hope to become a patron after I am done with setting up this shop. Rich
Hi Rich, and thank you! The Kreg plunge saw looks nice, but not something we get here in the UK AFAIK. Yes, I use mostly MR MDF - this is a different animal to the regular MDF that you may be used to, it has a much harder core and doesn't produce the 'fluffy' finish that seems common amongst other types. I use all kinds, but when most of my work was painted built-ins (this video's from 3 years ago, just FYI) then MR MDF is the perfect board for this. I'm doing a lot less of that kind of work now, and using more Birch ply and also some hardwoods , too - see my last video but one, #369, Birch Ply and Wenge side table. More of this type of thing to come 👍👍
Good work👍
Thanks! There's a much more recent video on the subject here - #405, Shaker panel doors - ua-cam.com/video/jwGvYsvdCg4/v-deo.html 👍
Bravo! Your work is impeccable! You, Sir, are very talented!
+Hula Shack Thank you so much! 👍😀
Brilliant!👍
I may use this technique on some doors I’m building soon, but I can’t bring myself to use MDF for the rails/stiles
Great idea! Any long term drawbacks to gluing the panel at all edges? I was always taught that there needs to be some freedom of movement...
Yay! My first youtube video, still getting views and questions nine years on, lol! No, no issues at all - the panel is the same as the rails and stiles, so there's no movement to be concerned about. 👍
Congratulation, fantastic job.
+Gentjan Ferizoviqi Thanks! I've done a lot more videos since this one 👍
Always a thumbs up for using MDF, even though MRMDF is almost as hard to find as cabinet quality plywood in Oz.
👍 Yes, so I'm beginning understand. It's only since I started doing UA-cam that I've begun to realise (and appreciate) the range of materials we have available here in the UK. Now, if you wanted to discuss hardwood prices, then that may be a different matter... 😂
No, even pine is expensive here in Oz, even though we have more forestry (and exceptional timber) per capita than Canada and the US combined.
I wish I had the space to have a room like this.
It's surprisingly small in reality actually
Good evening Peter
I have watched the majority of your videos and by all accounts you seem to have a wealth of experience which seems to have been achieved through experience and trial and error. Its because of this I would really appreciate your opinion and guidance of my future product. I am intended to totally replace my own kitchen and have been looking at using the Howdens Tewkesbury Framed Doors. The ones purchased from Howdens are Oak however i am conscious of the cost and also why I want to order an oak product simply to then choose a painted finish. My intention is to manufacture both the doors and the cabinets myself in MR MDF as I have a suitable sized area to complete the works including the painting and the vast majority of the tools as my father was a Joinery Lecturer at Collage and also a Contractor. Unfortunately he passed 12 years ago so my go to man is no longer here to point me in the right direction. The main questions I have are
1. Cabinets - I was considering using 18mm MR MDF with a 12mm MR MDF back panel. In addition I was considering omitting the 47mm service gap at the rear. What would your opinion be on these thicknesses. The intention is to use pocket holes. In addition to this I am intended to use an airless sprayer to paint both the doors and cabinets. The primer I have considered is Bin Zinsser. My thoughts were to align all the similar size units together in a sandwich and clamp them. Then sand the edge and then use a roller to apply the first coat and then lightly sand. The second coat on the visible edges I then intended to apply via the spray gun whilst applying a coat to the internal faces of the cabinet. At the same time at least applying a single coat to all the hidden edges. I would then apply the final coat of paint to the inner cabinet faces and exposed edges once it has been assembled. Question is does this sound reasonable and how many coats of primer would you suggest and what matt finish coat would you suggest and how many coats.
Continued
Hi Darren. Wow, that's a pretty epic comment, 550 words! There's a lot to get to grips with there, I'll take a stab at it in the morning, OK? 👍
@@10MinuteWorkshop Many thanks Peter. It is appreciated.
Hi Darren. There’s an awful lot to deal with here and I don’t want to put you off, but perhaps I can point you to this thread on the UK Workshop forum, where a similar question was posed recently.
www.ukworkshop.co.uk/forums/taking-a-plunge-to-kitchen-cabinet-making-t113525.html
From the outset I’d also like to make it clear that even though I do this for a living and have a reasonably well set up small workshop, I wouldn’t go near making a complete kitchen from scratch; it’s factory work, best done by automated machinery than can deliver a consistent quality product at a price far cheaper than anything I can make. That said, I totally understand if you want to make this yourself as a project, and have the time and space to do so. So, in answer to your questions:-
18mm MR MDF with a 12mm back is perfectly good enough for the carcasses. I’m not a fan of pocket-hole screws personally, and I would always recommend that you have e.g. £dowels/££biscuits/£££dominos to help with alignment.
Zinnser BIN is a fine primer/stainblock, but it is shellac-based product and best suited to spot application IMHO e.g. the edges, if you feel they need it. I would absolutely NOT recommend that you roller the primer if you intend to apply a spray finish; do one of the other, don’t mix them.
My methods for painting with a roller have been well documented in the Painting & finishing series, starts video #029, and for spraying in the Playing at Spraying series, starts video #188. In short, I don’t do anything special to the edges, other than sand them. I apply one or two coats of water-based primer/undercoat, followed by two or three coats of the final topcoat - almost always an eggshell or satin finish.
I’ve been particularly impressed with Tikkurila Helmi paints, though I find the eggshell a little too matt at just a 10% sheen, where most eggshells are 20%. Otherwise I’ve used all kinds of ‘high street’ paints and found very little to choose between them tbh.
Re. the doors, yes a 105mm frame from MR MDF will remain stable, though I would always go for a 22mm thick rail and stile; I regularly use a 6mm panel in this, but I know some prefer a 9mm pane to give more heft to the door, so perhaps consider this for the pantry door?
And yes, I would make the door complete before adding the decorative groove.
HTH & good luck, Peter
Peter. Many thanks for taking time out of your day to provide the advise that you have which I am sure will be very valuable. I have quite a lot of knowledge of construction and have converted my own barn conversion with the exception of the Gas and Log Fire Installation so have a reasonably good idea of how things always seem to take a lot longer than initially intended. I will certainly take your comments on board. The main reason for wanting to construct the kitchen myself is that there will be a lot of bespoke elements due to beams and columns within the kitchen space and as a result of that I can construct bespoke units to fit the dimensions i have available.
Excelente técnica! Primera vez que veo un video de usted. Ahora suscrito! Saludos✌
¡Gracias! Por favor, disculpe mi 'Google' español! Y bienvenido - por favor, ver mis otros videos. 👍
Interesting concept using loose tenons, never seen it done before. What if you were using grained wood and wanted to make floating panels? would the joints be strong enough?
Yes, plenty strong enough.
Hello Peter, firstly I really enjoy your videos and have learnt so much. I plan on making some shaker style doors but don't have a router table (I actually own a trim router and a plunge). What is the best way to cut the grooves using a table saw and would you have any advice or tips? Thank you, Paul.
Hi there, and thanks so much! On a table saw the only safe way really is with a flat-topped grooving blade, something like the CMT, come in 6mm and 4mm kerfs here - amzn.to/40fwETB - combined with a jig or a sliding table. Bear in mind you wont be able to have the blade guards in place, so push sticks are essential. I would personally always use a router where possible. 👍
Hi Peter, sorry to bother you with this question, you might have already answered it or not. What is the common width for stiles and rails for shaker doors like these.
Thanks for your videos. Greetings from Argentina.
Hi Juan Pablo. I start at around 80mm, but have gone as narrow as 60 and as wide as 100. Bottom rail on taller doors are usually anywhere from 120 - 150mm, though there’s nothing set in stone - just whatever looks right. 👍👍
Great video Peter. Catching up on some old ones whilst waiting for episode 4! 😊
It’s all part of my cunning plan... 😆😂👍 And Thanks! 👍👍
Great video, liked and subbed.
+goatsears Thanks, and welcome. Be sure to work your way through the back catalogue 👍
Was just wandering how strong a loose tendon is. And would it be better to do a stopped groove. Great video
Very strong. You can do a stopped groove, but if you want a deep groove then you’re reducing the length of your tenon significantly.
@@10MinuteWorkshop ok thanks for the reply makes a lot of sense 👍
Very informative, thanks for sharing
Pleasure - thanks for watching! 👍
Very good for no.1.
Thanks! It holds up pretty well, but I think what I'm doing these days - 8 years on - is a little more polished! 😂 👍
Excellent!!!
Jay G Thanks! P
Nicely Done 🔨👌
Thanks! 👍👍
Very nice
Thanks! 👍👍
hi peter been catching up on your vids and find them all very interesting .being a joiner for 35 yrs worked on lots of different things but the one thing i have noticed is that a lot of people glue panels in place i was tought that panels move and if you glue them they may spilt the peice they are glued to i now its mdf but it still moves adout.the only thing i can think of is the door gets its strenth from the panel
+Chris Logan Hiya. These doors certainly get some strength from the panel, but with MR MDF there's effectively no movement. 'Real tree wood' or if the panel is a different material, then sure, I'd leave the panel
loose 👍
thanks
Great vid Pete! You should show it to the people at Festool.
Thanks!And yeah, time I de-branded, I think ;)
Great video Peter. Whats the reason behind the offset on the groove? Why not just go centre?
If it’s a plain door I prefer just a 6-7mm rebate on the face. Also means that if the clients change their minds and decide they want a moulding applied, I can do it on the other side easily, without making new doors - provided they change their minds before the hinge pockets are drilled, of course. 🤔👍
Thanks for a very informative tutorial. From your experience what's the biggest size door you could construct with this method, was considering a large wardrobe door. Thanks again
Biggest I’ve done were 2200 x 550 or thereabouts. No issues at all. 👍
I have only watched a few of your videos, where you seem to have a preference for using mdf. Do you have a video explaining the different types of engineered panels and where best to use them?
Hi. It's not that I have a preference for MDF, it's just that it's the most appropriate material for 98% of what I do for clients. Sorry, I don't understand what you mean by 'engineered panels' - could you expand?? thanks.
Peter Millard hello again, apologies for the cryptic terminology “engineered panels”. What I’m after is learning when to use mdf, chipboard, plywood or osb. Thanks for the quick reply
Hi Peter. Great video as always. I’ve got to make some doors for some wardobes im building. I want to use this technique but I have 25mm tulip wood for the styles and rails and was going to use 6mm panel as my insert like you have but my doors are bigger. About 1.8m by 590mm. I was told that the 6mm would make it to films and was advised to use 12mm instead. Just wanted to get your thoughts as I’m struggling to find a cutter that will give me the 12.5/12.7mm cut out I need for the 12mm. Thank you
Thanks! Wow, my first ever video, still getting views and questions, lol! Pretty much every door I’ve ever made had a 6mm panel, and had no complaints from customers. You can go thicker if you want, but as you’ve found you’ll struggle to get a 12mm groover so you’ll be into a few passes to make it up. 👍
Thank you Peter. Absolutely wonderful video and carpentry techniques. Subscribed!
How would you adapt this for a larger door - say a 2 meter by 45cm wardrobe door? Still strong enough without any screws?
Yes, absolutely - and welcome, btw! If you plough through the back catalogue you’ll see plenty of sizeable wardrobe doors made this way 👍👍
Super simple, very informative video. Can I ask, why did you set the grooving bit slightly off centre?
Thank you Peter.
Thanks Graeme! Just FYI there’s an updated version of this video here - ua-cam.com/video/jwGvYsvdCg4/v-deo.html - where I also talk about mock-panel doors. Re the offset groove, there’s two reasons; I think a 6 or 7mm rebate around the door just looks better, personally, and it’s an easy way to see which is the face side of the rails and stiles, because the back has the deeper rebate. 👍👍
Thank you for that reply. I’m about to make a wardrobe and an ‘under the stairs’ cupboard for my daughters new house. Never made this style of door before but your video has explained it perfectly.
Thank you very much .... you have the perfect voice for informative video making. 👍🏻
Just wondered what bit & arbor you used on the router for cutting the slot for the panel, as having great difficulty finding one.
Links are in the video description 👍👍 Heavy duty groover - goo.gl/Ht1TU4
Arbor for above - goo.gl/xdE9PU
@@10MinuteWorkshop Brillant thanks so much, and speedy reply, your videos are brillant, thank you
Like a Boss Sir !
Thank you! I’d suggest checking out the back catalogue, but it looks like you’ve already started, lol 👍👍
Love it! Thank you for making this vid. Subscribed!
+MassiveReactive Thanks! 👍
Hi Peter, is it possible to cut the grooves with a plunge router without a router table?
It’s technically possible, but not recommended.
Good job👍
Thanks! 👍
Awesome video Thank you
Thanks! 👍
Hi Peter, when I first watched this I wondered why you didn’t 'stop the grooves in the styles and why you routed a groove in the short edge of the rail. It's just dawned on me that the loose tenons actually add an increased gluing surface and do away with the need to use pocket screws or whatever to strengthen the butt joints. Was that the plan?
Yep. Simple as that - no additional fixings needed 👍👍
@@10MinuteWorkshop Having just made 8 doors using regular tenons I now understand why you make your doors this way. I'm definitely going to do it this way next time.