Very interesting work on the pre-war stuff. I have a 1933 Goudey Rick Ferrell with a small crease on the front I may try the spray in to see if it will help with. I also have a 1911 T-205 Polar Bear back that has tobacco staining on the back; not sure if you’ve done a video showing you working on such a card addressing that type of issue.
Hi very nice and impressive work. What material are the dry pads you are using ? Id like to have the materials before i try your spray. Also will the spray work on what appears to be mold on my T206 ? Thanks for your time.
The material is a toolbox liner. I can get you a link. I get it on Amazon. I assume you could remove some mold. Take a look at this demonstration. ua-cam.com/video/8wj-3llHSSs/v-deo.htmlsi=6XviIOf0HJKvHUgZ
Mainly Cards from the pre-war era through the 50s and 60s take a soaking the best based on the materials they are made out of. However, I do all kinds of experiments. I’ve soaked Cards from the 80s 90s and today and they are very thin and have different materials. Just not a remarkable turnaround like the older stuff.
@@kurtscardcare I'm thinking of 1973 & 1974 specifically. They take very well to your technique of light surface dabs, and clean up pretty good from limited tests I've done (my 70's cards are grittier than I remember the 70's~!). I've got some deep structural folds (without paint break or distortion) that need the kind of deep-tissue massage that only a good soak would provide (also, controlling the fold angle easier in the soak). There's a real dust & spit nature to the stock material that makes me nervous with '73 & '74 though - they can get almost sandy through aqueous degradation. I need your permission to bite the bullet, Mr. Card Care - lol. Thanks for responding~!
Hey Dan, I did a live video on Instagram a few weeks ago where we let one soak for a half hour. I just pretty much summarized in this video but usually a half hour does the job.
I have a T206 in pretty good condition but it has been written on on the back with ballpoint pen and part of that scribbled out with pencil. Can I use these techniques to remove those marks?
I’ve never been successful at removing pen, unfortunately. I’ve had good success with pencil. I just tap on the spot with a cotton applicator with card spray. Tap the stain a few minutes at a time and let it dry and repeat the process. It takes a while while but it can be done.
@@kkob then don’t use it, I have tons of demonstrations, showing successful restorations, and all kinds of success, but if it makes you nervous, don’t bother with it.
53s cleanup nice, give it plenty of time to dry. Once that border turns white again, it will be dry. Based on the atmosphere sometimes it can be 3 to 4 days. Don’t rush it. It will be sweet. 🤘🏼
I've watched hours of your content. Completely fascinating. Currently experimenting and trying out all the methods
Just finding cards like this is miraculous despite their condition!
Kurt,that was amazing work!!
That cleaned up great!
Very interesting work on the pre-war stuff. I have a 1933 Goudey Rick Ferrell with a small crease on the front I may try the spray in to see if it will help with. I also have a 1911 T-205 Polar Bear back that has tobacco staining on the back; not sure if you’ve done a video showing you working on such a card addressing that type of issue.
I want that john butler lol such a nice card
How do you remove glue when two cards were stuck together, but you can see small glue spots
Maybe something like this?
ua-cam.com/video/JVqUHeLVHsA/v-deo.htmlsi=aoftHquyJVJn22s2
I wonder if a soak would get the yellowing out of my 82 Ripken?
I’m not sure. But it work well for dirty and wrinkled cards.
Hi very nice and impressive work. What material are the dry pads you are using ? Id like to have the materials before i try your spray. Also will the spray work on what appears to be mold on my T206 ? Thanks for your time.
The material is a toolbox liner. I can get you a link. I get it on Amazon. I assume you could remove some mold. Take a look at this demonstration.
ua-cam.com/video/8wj-3llHSSs/v-deo.htmlsi=6XviIOf0HJKvHUgZ
Is there a date before which you soak, after you don't?
Mainly Cards from the pre-war era through the 50s and 60s take a soaking the best based on the materials they are made out of. However, I do all kinds of experiments. I’ve soaked Cards from the 80s 90s and today and they are very thin and have different materials. Just not a remarkable turnaround like the older stuff.
@@kurtscardcare I'm thinking of 1973 & 1974 specifically. They take very well to your technique of light surface dabs, and clean up pretty good from limited tests I've done (my 70's cards are grittier than I remember the 70's~!). I've got some deep structural folds (without paint break or distortion) that need the kind of deep-tissue massage that only a good soak would provide (also, controlling the fold angle easier in the soak). There's a real dust & spit nature to the stock material that makes me nervous with '73 & '74 though - they can get almost sandy through aqueous degradation. I need your permission to bite the bullet, Mr. Card Care - lol. Thanks for responding~!
Could you just use a hair dryer or would it mess it up
@@indiana-florida2479 For what part?
Hey Kurt! Do you detail your soaking technique anywhere?
Hey Dan, I did a live video on Instagram a few weeks ago where we let one soak for a half hour. I just pretty much summarized in this video but usually a half hour does the job.
@@kurtscardcare really appreciate the reply
The soaking only works on these old paper cards correct? Not pokemon cards with the glossy surfaces?
Correct, Pokémon cards don’t have the same materials. I wish they worked like this.
Sorry what is the spray?
That’s what I used to clean cards. It’s a formula that I make and it’s for sale if you need any on my website.
I have a T206 in pretty good condition but it has been written on on the back with ballpoint pen and part of that scribbled out with pencil. Can I use these techniques to remove those marks?
I’ve never been successful at removing pen, unfortunately. I’ve had good success with pencil. I just tap on the spot with a cotton applicator with card spray. Tap the stain a few minutes at a time and let it dry and repeat the process. It takes a while while but it can be done.
@@kurtscardcare Yeah, but I don't know what's in your card spray. 🤥
@@kkob then don’t use it, I have tons of demonstrations, showing successful restorations, and all kinds of success, but if it makes you nervous, don’t bother with it.
Hi Kurt, what are those circular plastic plates and plastic sleeves you are using after treatment?
great question, here is a link to all of the accessories I use. The discs and sleeves are on here too - www.kurtscardcare.com/products-we-love
what size on the circular plates? 6"?@@kurtscardcare
@@4rebecca yep, 6 inch diameter quarter inch thick
I wonder how a '53 Jackie would do in this process? Nah, I wonder no more as I just did it. It's rewarding to see that dirty dish.
53s cleanup nice, give it plenty of time to dry. Once that border turns white again, it will be dry. Based on the atmosphere sometimes it can be 3 to 4 days. Don’t rush it. It will be sweet. 🤘🏼