Dude, thank you so much. My basement has flooded like 6 times from my pump becoming air locked. After the 2nd time I bought a new pump and it keeps happening. A little hole that took 2 seconds to drill just saved me the biggest headache. I couldn't figure out what was wrong. I would take it out, look it over, see nothing was stuck, put it back in and it would work once so I figured just a really unfortunate glitch. Then I realized that when i took it apart there was a ton of air in it and I sort of had a clue and came across this video. Thanks so much!
When I was just starting out in plumbing 23 years ago I installed a new sewage pump in a million dollar house and ignored drilling the hole...I went to test the pump and kept flushing the toilet and running water and the pump came on but never pumped a dropped and never shut off. When I disconnected the check valve to remove the pump I heard air release and right then and there I understood why there needs to be a hole.
I just drilled a 4mm hole at a downward angle just above the pump. Now the pump actually started to work (you could hear the pump humming, but no water flow (airlock). Great advise. Thank you. We just moved into our new home, and we are trying to prepare for spring. Don't want to get a surprise when the snow start to melt and the water level start to rise in the basement.
I think the premise of this video is good. Virtually all manufacturers say that the weep hole on the unit will eventually clog. They also commonly recommend a 3/16 hole pointed down. However, the main reason they give is the fact that the system has a check valve. I've had some pumps from three different manufacturers and they all claim this is the real problem for homeowners.
I replaced the pump in my sump several years ago and I did not drill a hole in the discharge pipe. I must have gotten lucky and bought a pump that had an air lock hole on the pump since mine seems to be working fine. I am going to take a look at it this weekend to find out.
The vent hole in my riser pipe sprays water all over the floor after very heavy prolonged rains. I didn't know why it was there. The guy who put it in should have drilled it at an angle. I was going to seal it off. Now I'll find a way to deflect it downward more. Thanks!
Good techs make the hole down closer to the base, so any sediment will be stirred up by the current and removed by the pump. Too high a hole can cause problems with water infiltration into the concrete floor or erosion problems. Also check valves are used to prevent backflow into the sump, as per code.
I did a one way check valve, was worried about the water freezing in the 4ft vertical pipe, so drilled a small hole after the check valve. The water just falls back into the pit.
Well explained, thank you. This seems like a better solution than in the Liberty 441 backup sump pump. To keep the pump installed at a 45 degree angle.
I had a septic/effluent pump basically destroy itself because there was no vent hole drilled in the outlet pipe. This pump was installed by the septic installer when my home was built about 14 years ago. I ended up replacing the pump and replacing the 2-inch PVC discharge pipe entirely, and drilled my vent hole farther up the pipe (before the check valve) so that it wouldn't get clogged up. I've noticed that with septic systems, if you drill that hole too low it can clog - removing a clog is easy, but not if the pump is 8 ft+ into the ground and you can't reach down there to unclog the vent hole!
Great info! When installing a new pump at work years ago I found that information in the instruction manual. Had the problem of splashing too. Had to clamp a diverter onto pipe. Thanks!
If all components are working but water doesn't rise more than a foot past the checkvalve, could the pump be getting weak? I'm not sure how that can happen, brushes, dirt?
My sump pump suddenly started venting into my house after I found my crawl space open . It never happened before. I had only been gone a short time and my neighbor was the only one around . The same guy who let out a huge sigh of disappointment when he found out I wasn’t moving. What should I look for .. I’d hire someone but I’m afraid of being taken advantage of.
For years I've been using Wayne submersible sump pumps which say the pump is precision engineered to eliminate Air Lock, and no weep hole is necessary.
I have a zoeller 1/2 hp in an outside sump/sump pit application. The pump has a vent hole as shown in video and I also drilled a vent hole in the riser pvc pipe as recommended. However, my pump is still airlocked and it's very frustrating. Is it because my pit goes completely dry due to having drilled 1/2 inch holes in the bottom of the pit. Not sure what else could be the problem. Any suggestions?
Man I really don't see this happening at all - where I work we have multiple sump pumps in holes, pits and under equipment beds etc,,, through out the entire mill and in my department we have several sump pumps in service and I'm on my 3 home with each having sump pumps. I have never ever seen this issue. I know none (big zero) of the sump pumps drain below the pump intake area. So what's the deal with you guys?
Do they make a pump that will start a siphon, that is all I need for draining back yard .? Right now I use a electric pump and it has a bleeder and when I unplug it it will continue the siphon but it is slow it runs for days .
Can you put a Zoeller 270 bn pump inside a 275 gallon Tote container for outside use of displaced grey water? The Poly Tote is 48” X 40” X (33” in height) since I poured concrete in the bottom of tote for durability I lost 15 “ in height. Will this be enough volume in height? Thanks
Two questions: 1- can the vent end in the basement and just put a vent cap on top or does it have to go to the outside of the house 2- when I flush no problem but when the pump activates the water splashes out the toilet why? Tnx.
Good explanation and wondering about another issue. Installed a sewage pump as the basement washing machine, shower and sink (no toilet) empty into a very big sump. The problem is however that recently the water is been drained from the trap in the upstairs bathroom or backs up slightly in the bathtub when the pump empties the sump to the sewer/ storm system. Any suggestions? Will a less powerful pump or a mechanical vent before the bathroom trap help?
I removed my septic effluent pump the other day and noticed there is no weep hole. This pump is nearly 20 yrs old and has never air locked. Have I been lucky or is air lock a rare occurrence?
I see sump pumps all over industrial applications and never seen one airlock. No homeowners I know drill weep holes either. If the pump has one already, it's probably entirely unnecessary.
Drilling the weeping hole above the check vale negates the check valve. Do not do this. The weeping hole should be between the pump discharge and check valve and above the impeller. After installing the threaded check valve on the pump, I drill right through the pump housing and the threaded section of the check valve just below the flap. Works every and all the time
In this video I do not recommend drilling above the check valve. Though it is a very common practice in cold climates to allow the lines to drain back into the tank to prevent the lines from freezing. A hole in the pipe above the check valve does not eliminate the need for a vent hole. I would say it is unnecessary to drill a vent hole in the cast iron as a hole in the pipe functions just as well and doesn't use up nearly as many drill bits. In case you are thinking the fitting coming out of the pump is the check valve, it is not. That is a PVC SCH 40 male adapter with a slip x thread bushing in it. I like to install my check valves higher up for easier access and inspection without the need to pull the pump.
Thank you so much for this well done video. I had a very noisy check valve and installed one of the check valves that has a trapped air column to dampen the water hammer. Does it matter how high on the volute the dampening check valve is mounted and if not what in your opinion is the best dampening check valve available. Standard residential system with PVC. Volute is straight vertical about 8 feet to horizontal discharge. Please help before my wife does something nasty . Again many thanks.
You said to drill the vent hole 3" or 4" above the pump discharge, looks like the hole shown is around 6" or 8" above the pump discharge. What is the ideal height of the vent hole. Also, the Zoeller pump I have has a vent hole built into it, is it really necessary to drill another hole in the pvc discharge pipe? Just wondering.... Thanks
Anywhere below the top of the pump. Yes, the instructions for Zoeller pumps with a vent hole instruct you to still drill a vent hole in the discharge pipe.
Silly question - my Zoeller setup has a vent hole that I first thought was a cracked pipe. Now realize whoever installed the system did it intentionally. However, the vent hole is above the water line at all times which means I get a hell of splash/spray noise. Nothing around the pump to damage and no water spraying out of the sump hole, but its super alarming in the basement to hear splashing water. Should the vent hole be above or below the water level?
The vent hole can be drilled above or below the water level in your sump. You can replace that first stick of pipe coming out of your pump and redrill the vent hole lower to eliminate that sound. Thanks for the question!
I like the vent hole in the riser pipe above the check valve, in a good number of basement pump installs the riser pipe is roughly 10 feet, 1 and one half inch diameter, So that's several pounds of water that the pump has to start up against and get moving. I believe that stresses the motor and over time can cause failure. I have not noticed any adverse effects from doing this other than the slight hissing sound the water makes as it escapes. I'd be interested in any feedback you have about doing this.
I just hooked up a 1/2hp Zoeller tonight with 24ft flex hose. The push on check valve is maybe 2 -3 inches about the base discharge screw in spot. I was going to do a pvc riser and check valve being much higher but I was told it's not good to attach flex discharge pipe to pvc riser. Should I still try to drill 3/16th hole an inch below very low check valve?
This is true. I didn't do this with a $350 Zoeller and it died on me after a year. I've got a crap Coleman in there now with a corded float that I hate, but I had to do an emergency switch with near freezing water up to my ankles so I didn't have time to research or even think about what I was doing. This Coleman piece of garbage has been working fine for 4 years now. That Zoeller probably would have run 20 years if I put this damn little hole in there.
The Zoeller already has a weeping hole. No need for this. By installing a weeping hole above the check valve you negate the check valve. All the water in the pipe you just pumped out will drain back into the sump causing your pump to run excessive and fail prematurely
@@1seriousgearheadify Maybe the new ones do, but the one I bought 5 or 6 years ago didn't, and the installation instructions directed you to make one of your own. Long story short, read the instructions. Don't be a dummy (like me).
@@1seriousgearheadify Thank you for the tip. But the instructions for the installation that I ignored when installing it called for making your own weeping hole in the pipe. I figured that out after the thing died on me in less than a year and the dude I bought it from on Amazon wouldn't take it back and got me in contact with a Zoller approved shop that wanted to charge me $100 to fix it. If they all have them now, that's great. I know my Coleman that's in there now doesn't and had the same instructions on it. My weeping hole feeds onto a sheet of aluminum I put across from it and the cap is off of the well so I can hear that thing pissing like a racehorse whenever it goes off. I'm rather paranoid about another one failing on me now, after having to change out a pump in knee high freezing cold water not once, but twice in 2 years. :) Don't assume anything, is all I'm saying. If you're doing something like installing something designed to spare thousands or tens of thousands of dollars of avoidable damage DIY style, make sure you follow the instructions.
My submersible pump has the vent hole and I barely used it for more than 20 minutes. I was pumping out an area dugout of clay , so dirty water. The pump now pisses out of the vent hole. My pump works with a garden hose so i just reverse the hose to clear the the inside of the pump and as well blew air in vent hole. Got the pump working but didn’t last once i started pumping the dirty water with clay it started with the problem again. The pump is new is the pump basically worthless I dont want to open it for nothing or bring it back to the store as it has a 30 day return policy. I would appreciate any feedback from anyone. Thank you.
My sump pump is outdoor and its vent hole gets clogged up causing air locks maybe a few times a year. Any advice to manage this? What type of alarm can help with this?
@@RCworstwater Oh wow, I totally understand now. It’s to prevent air locking in the impeller / pump which would burn up. Ok this makes complete sense. I watched a couple videos of them turning on and they definitely shoot out pocket of air in the first half a second. And yes this pocket of air does blow out the front typically pretty hard. Thank you for explaining
I have a pump in a 22" diameter hole connected to a 2" PVC pipe running outside. On the first cycle the pump empties the hole as I would expect a 2" to do. The next cycle the pump's output reduces to ~25% of capacity. I tried the vent hole but experienced the same scenario. It will not draw the water level down low enough to allow the float to drop and shut the pump off. Any thoughts or ideas would be appreciated. Thanks
It sounds like it is getting airlocked or your check valve has failed... More than likely an air lock issue. You could also try raising the float a few inches so the water level does not drop so far and maybe that will stop the pump from sucking air.
I have a Meyers grinder. It’s in the crawl space (‘85) I can sometimes hear it knocking. Why? Does it need a tank vent or is the 4” supply enough? Thanks
Where does the vent hole need to be located? Should it be above the normal water level in the basin? Close to the level of the top of the pump (even if that means it's under water)? Any recommendation?
My pump has been running 16 years without a vent hole. First time I've ever heard it airlock was last week after the float switch was replaced and being tested. It was discovered by the second plumber that it needed what he called a "weep hole" I still wonder if it's necessary.
There's no real answer as it depends on the volume of water in the sump basin. Our neighbor's house in the Midwest turned on every 30 seconds in the heaviest of rains.
@@kcmaldonado3948 Thanks for taking the time to reply. Since I posted the question I learned a lot about how this house takes the rain water in and how long it takes for the pump to operate a little less than every min or so a it was that day. We've got 3 days of rain again this week and by the end of the second day it started to run crazy again for like 12h until it slowed down again.... I also figured what was wrong with my water powered secondary pump that helps when the primary is in trouble...
What could cause a drain pump to run for the same amount of time but drain more volume of water? There's no electrical as the pressure sensor and control board has been It's an Electrolux commercial dishwasher where the drain pump is running for the same amount of time as before but is pumping more water out the wash tank than usual after completing every cycle. The drain pump has a vent valve could this being blocked by dirt cause an issue (like you said vortexing)
I have a question the hole that my sump pumps sits in is basically bricks surrounding it while in the ground. When the sump pump suck the water out I can see where the water is coming from if I patch that section up will it cost future problems?
As long as your pump is emptying the pit faster than the water is filling it no action is needed, just let the little guy do his job. Check out our sump pump tips video, I think you'll find it helpful:ua-cam.com/video/LAquntA5Ba0/v-deo.html
nice job! I noticed for my Zoeller M53 sump pump does have weep hole in the exact location as your sample pump in the video. I do not have a weep hole on my pvc pipe but it's running fine and I do try to clear the hole on the Zoeller SP once a year. Do I still need to drill a weephole? My previous sump pump lasted 13 years without a weep hole on the PVC pipe and replaced it in 2017 (just because it's 13 years but nothing was wrong with it).
Zoeller recommends that you drill a weep hole even if your pump has one. The pump's weep hole is quite easily clogged, and the second one will add a layer of redundancy.
100% agreement with this reply, from a guy who had a Zoeller with it's own weep hole and ignored the directions to make one in the pipe. It failed after a year, and I had to put in an emergency install of a crap replacement from the nearest store that cost half the price and has worked for 4 years now (and has a weep hole in both the pipe and the unit itself). You don't want to take any chances here. Trust me. You can always figure out a way to cover up and deaden the noise (there will be a LOT of noise created). But you aren't going to be able to save everything that is going to get wet.
I find this a little confusing when compared to the watchdog emergency sump pump installation manual. They require a vent hole drilled above the waterline (I think they mean high waterline). This seems counterintuitive to me; I can see a hole above the low waterline allowing the impeller to be fully immersed, but see no need to go as high as above the high waterline
It looks like their install instruction illustrate the hole above the low water line. So drilling the hole 3-4" above your pump should still work well in your situation. Thanks for watching!
You drilled the hole much, much too high on the riser pipe. The Everbilt check valves sold by The Home Depot have a small hole, about 3 mm (1/8 in) diameter, at the top of the male thread that screws into the base of the sump pump. That's high enough to guarantee that the pump impeller will be 100% immersed in water before starting, but low enough that the stream of water coming out of the hole will always be under the water level in the sump, thus preventing a splashing problem. I've operated sump pumps for years without such a hole and have never had problems with the pumps not being able to start due to air around the impeller.
@Milosz Ostrow I think you are right about the height of the hole in cases where the liquid level is allowed to travel below the top of the pump. I personally always advise against allowing the liquid level to fall below 3" above the pump for optimal pump life. I understand that not everyone has the depth to accommodate, so in those cases your advice is great. There are many low profile options for adding a vent hole much lower as needed. As I mention in the video, many pumps today feature a vent hole in the volute (including the pump in the video). Thanks for the comment & for watching!
Hey there. I've watched a lot of your videos and was able to do my first sump pump install thanks to them. So I have a zoeller m53. 1/3 hp pump. I also have the back up pump with battery. The reason I switched was because the float switch was going bad in my first one. Long story short, after everything's done I have a ticking sound? I have two check valves on it. The one that threads into the pump isn't sealing that great. I took it apart and ran it under my kitchen faucet to see and the water pretty much dripped out. So the water runs back in. Granted this is about 1.5 to 2ft of pipe because the zoeller check valve further up works perfectly. My question is do I need two check valves? I assume yes because it would keep the back up pump from pumping into my main? I guess the new piece is just faulty and I should try another. Any suggestions? Looking for a threaded check valve to hook into the pump. Thanks!
That would be true if you drilled the hole ABOVE the check valve, which is often done for freeze protection when the discharge pipe is not buried deep enough. In the video we instruct you to drill it below the check valve so you are only draining the water in the short pipe between the pump and check valve.
R.C. Worst & Co., Inc. ok...thank you...I believe that is what is happening. When our pit fills with water from the washer, it can take hours for it to empty. The pump was recently replaced.
@@rickschultz737 i hope you're not draining your clothes washing machine into the sump pump. Not only is it illegal, but your going to get lint trapped in the impeller and burn out the motor.
R.C. Worst & Co., Inc. I have a shallow space, my check valve comes directly off the pump due to height maximum. Can the hole be in the rubber below the check valve flap? Thanks!
@@Pro1er I have the same situation and my sump drains to septic system as required in my Michigan county. Is that still a problem, i.e. - having the washer draining into the sump?
So... After replacing 2 pumps, and figuring out a lot about how they work, how sump wells work, and how house drainage systems in general work, I'd like to spend some time this winter ripping it all out and making a lot of adjustments to things like installing a new check valve, making my weep hole lower and pointing downward, getting all of the rubble and dirt out of the bottom of the well and having just the gravel or a paver for the pump and making it much lower so I can trigger it before it engulfs the 4" inlet pipe and puts another 6" to 8" of water on top of it like it does now (It takes way too long for my pump to really start working during heavy rains, and then it spends the next two days going off every 3 or 4 minutes playing catch up when it could be spending the first half of the day actually working instead of waiting for gravity to push enough water in the well up to get it going) My question to the channel (or to anyone else here), is how do you detach the PVC from the pump after it's been glued on? I could just buy some connectors when I make it longer, but I'd rather have a straight pipe with the only break being the check valve.
Once it's glued your only option is to cut it unless you have a union installed somewhere. We sell True Union check valves on our website for this exact application: www.rcworst.com/Spears-True-Union-PVC-Spring-Check-Valve-2-S1780-20-Socket-p1894.html
I have boring out of my house and have water connections in 6 houses and there is a walve outside of every house if all walve off and summer pump is turned on then what will be the solution
What if air gets in the pipe above the drilled hole in the discharge pipe, but below the check valve? Wouldn't it still be air trapped that can't get out?
@@bobyang3350 I'm assuming because of the massive amount of water that already comes out of a hole 3/16th of an inch. Every time my pump goes off in my crawlspace, it sounds like a horse pissing that I can hear from the bedroom on the 2nd floor. I could cover it up, but after two failed pumps since I've lived here, I like knowing that it's running. I think if you start going to a 1/4" hole or larger your pump is going to be wasting half of its time and energy re-pumping water that it's already shot out but keeps getting recycled.
@@cassielliejemssamson2902 let me double back, if you have a pump that is say 320 gpm at 25 ft head and you only need it to be 75 gpm. Well that depends, is the pump capable of 75 gpm without falling all the way to the left of the curve. If it can, than put a valve on the discharge and create false head. This would bring the pump back to 75 gpm.
Asking for a friend: This doesn't make sense. The hole you're recommending to drill is literally on a vertical pipe, where any air would rush to the top of the pipe vertically. How would that fix airlock INSIDE the pump. This adds air constantly to what would typically be a closed system without air in it.
Thanks for watching! If you have ANY questions or concerns about your pump system you can leave a comment, call our experts at 855.329.4519 or you can live chat with them on our website: RCWorst.com
My Little Giant 1/2 HP sewage pump failed less than 2 years, and Franklin Electric does not want to replace it. This kind of Company should disappear in America.
Thanks for the question! Pumping raw sewage requires that the pump be able to pass 1.5-2" solids at minimum. Sump pumps would not fair well in sewage application because they have very limited solids handling capabilities (typically less than 1/2").
Thanks for replying. I was just wondering because I just bought a house with a sump pump. And on the final walk through I found out the sump pump is being used for the sewer, not for standing water under the house. It's worked like this since 2006 when the house got put on public sewer, and the pump has been replaced once and is 3 years old. It worked for them so I hope it works for us. Can't really afford a pro to come look at it at the moment. It could also be a sewer pump and they just don't know the proper wording for it. I hope that's what the deal is. Lol
Dude, thank you so much. My basement has flooded like 6 times from my pump becoming air locked. After the 2nd time I bought a new pump and it keeps happening. A little hole that took 2 seconds to drill just saved me the biggest headache. I couldn't figure out what was wrong. I would take it out, look it over, see nothing was stuck, put it back in and it would work once so I figured just a really unfortunate glitch. Then I realized that when i took it apart there was a ton of air in it and I sort of had a clue and came across this video. Thanks so much!
Nice work!
When I was just starting out in plumbing 23 years ago I installed a new sewage pump in a million dollar house and ignored drilling the hole...I went to test the pump and kept flushing the toilet and running water and the pump came on but never pumped a dropped and never shut off. When I disconnected the check valve to remove the pump I heard air release and right then and there I understood why there needs to be a hole.
I was ready to buy a new pump. But thanks to you, not necessary anymore. Works like a charm now. Thank you!
I drilled the 3/16" hole in my discharge pipe, and now my ex-wife wants to remarry, my dog came home, and my hair is growing back on my head. Thanks!
Where can I buy hydromatic sump pumps.
Wow your ex was married to the dog huh well different strokes for different folks
😂
I show new guys at work this all the time. Baffling lol
Right On Brother.
Multiple problems solved with one simple procedure.
I just drilled a 4mm hole at a downward angle just above the pump. Now the pump actually started to work (you could hear the pump humming, but no water flow (airlock). Great advise. Thank you. We just moved into our new home, and we are trying to prepare for spring. Don't want to get a surprise when the snow start to melt and the water level start to rise in the basement.
You drill upwards so that when the water shoots out it shoots downwards.
Drill the vent hole pointing towards the float switch and pointing downwards. It rinses the switch mechanism.
I think the premise of this video is good. Virtually all manufacturers say that the weep hole on the unit will eventually clog. They also commonly recommend a 3/16 hole pointed down. However, the main reason they give is the fact that the system has a check valve. I've had some pumps from three different manufacturers and they all claim this is the real problem for homeowners.
I replaced the pump in my sump several years ago and I did not drill a hole in the discharge pipe. I must have gotten lucky and bought a pump that had an air lock hole on the pump since mine seems to be working fine. I am going to take a look at it this weekend to find out.
Awesome video very informative. Thanks for taking the time to explain the weep hole and how the pump operates
You bet John! Thanks for the kind words. =)
The vent hole in my riser pipe sprays water all over the floor after very heavy prolonged rains. I didn't know why it was there. The guy who put it in should have drilled it at an angle. I was going to seal it off. Now I'll find a way to deflect it downward more. Thanks!
There are check valves designed to be screwed into the base of the pump below any of the pvc pipe. I'm assuming no hole is needed on these?
Good techs make the hole down closer to the base, so any sediment will be stirred up by the current and removed by the pump. Too high a hole can cause problems with water infiltration into the concrete floor or erosion problems. Also check valves are used to prevent backflow into the sump, as per code.
Great tips!
What if the riser off of the pump is the highest location and the rest of the flow is gravity drainable? Still want a check valve on the riser?
Also what if the pump is outdoors? I’m worried about water being trapped in the last 90° bend and freezing
I did a one way check valve, was worried about the water freezing in the 4ft vertical pipe, so drilled a small hole after the check valve. The water just falls back into the pit.
Good information I have a pedestal sump pump never had any problem, yet but ill look into to this
Well explained, thank you. This seems like a better solution than in the Liberty 441 backup sump pump. To keep the pump installed at a 45 degree angle.
Excellent video Chris.
Many thanks!
I had a septic/effluent pump basically destroy itself because there was no vent hole drilled in the outlet pipe. This pump was installed by the septic installer when my home was built about 14 years ago. I ended up replacing the pump and replacing the 2-inch PVC discharge pipe entirely, and drilled my vent hole farther up the pipe (before the check valve) so that it wouldn't get clogged up. I've noticed that with septic systems, if you drill that hole too low it can clog - removing a clog is easy, but not if the pump is 8 ft+ into the ground and you can't reach down there to unclog the vent hole!
This is exactly what I was wondering! Thank you.
Glad it was helpful!
what about when someone attaches the check valve right to the pump?
Great info! When installing a new pump at work years ago I found that information in the instruction manual. Had the problem of splashing too. Had to clamp a diverter onto pipe. Thanks!
Glad it helped!
With a hole drilled in the discharge pipe does the basin need to have a vent line piped out of it?
What do you think about the idea of drilling the hole so that it sprays onto the top of the sump pump to help keep it free of gunk?
If all components are working but water doesn't rise more than a foot past the checkvalve, could the pump be getting weak? I'm not sure how that can happen, brushes, dirt?
I burnt 2 $400 sump pumps before learning this "Air Lock" lesson. Wish I would have found this before lol.
Thank you for sharing.
Thanks for watching!
Idk how I came across this video, but everyone was telling me to change the pump and this is such an easy solution!
Why drill the hole so high on the discharge pipe? Why not just a half inch above the pipe nut? Seems to me that lower would be better?
My sump pump suddenly started venting into my house after I found my crawl space open .
It never happened before. I had only been gone a short time and my neighbor was the only one around . The same guy who let out a huge sigh of disappointment when he found out I wasn’t moving.
What should I look for ..
I’d hire someone but I’m afraid of being taken advantage of.
very educational video thanks . which brand is considered by drainage industry to be the most reliable keeping value for money in mind thanks
For years I've been using Wayne submersible sump pumps which say the pump is precision engineered to eliminate Air Lock, and no weep hole is necessary.
Hi Chris, does the drain hole needs to be higher than the water level when pump has stopped. Thanks
No, it does not. It's best to drill it an inch or two above the pump connection.
Is it necessary to add a vent on a sump pump system as on the regular plumbing system in the house?
Can the vent hole be situated below the water line when the sump is full?
great demo thanks for all the info, please do one all the different pumps and which one is the best?
We do have a video on sump pump selection here: ua-cam.com/video/NtxDN72_xiQ/v-deo.html
Well done ! Are you saying there are some Zoeller pumps that have built in air-hole hence this is not required ? How can I tell which models ?
House sump pump, lots water spurt out from the pump weep hole and hole on the pipe no stop. Is that normal?
I have a zoeller 1/2 hp in an outside sump/sump pit application. The pump has a vent hole as shown in video and I also drilled a vent hole in the riser pvc pipe as recommended. However, my pump is still airlocked and it's very frustrating. Is it because my pit goes completely dry due to having drilled 1/2 inch holes in the bottom of the pit. Not sure what else could be the problem. Any suggestions?
I have a picture of water spurt out the pump could text to you if it will help to see what needs to do. Thanks.
Man for Halloween you would make a sick Luigi!
Hahaha, that's what everyone around the office tells him! :)
Man I really don't see this happening at all - where I work we have multiple sump pumps in holes, pits and under equipment beds etc,,, through out the entire mill and in my department we have several sump pumps in service and I'm on my 3 home with each having sump pumps. I have never ever seen this issue. I know none (big zero) of the sump pumps drain below the pump intake area. So what's the deal with you guys?
Do they make a pump that will start a siphon, that is all I need for draining back yard .? Right now I use a electric pump and it has a bleeder and when I unplug it it will continue the siphon but it is slow it runs for days .
Can you put a Zoeller 270 bn pump inside a 275 gallon Tote container for outside use of displaced grey water? The Poly Tote is 48” X 40” X (33” in height) since I poured concrete in the bottom of tote for durability I lost 15 “ in height. Will this be enough volume in height? Thanks
Two questions:
1- can the vent end in the basement and just put a vent cap on top or does it have to go to the outside of the house
2- when I flush no problem but when the pump activates the water splashes out the toilet why?
Tnx.
Good explanation and wondering about another issue. Installed a sewage pump as the basement washing machine, shower and sink (no toilet) empty into a very big sump. The problem is however that recently the water is been drained from the trap in the upstairs bathroom or backs up slightly in the bathtub when the pump empties the sump to the sewer/ storm system. Any suggestions? Will a less powerful pump or a mechanical vent before the bathroom trap help?
Need a vent pipe to the pit.
I removed my septic effluent pump the other day and noticed there is no weep hole. This pump is nearly 20 yrs old and has never air locked. Have I been lucky or is air lock a rare occurrence?
I see sump pumps all over industrial applications and never seen one airlock. No homeowners I know drill weep holes either. If the pump has one already, it's probably entirely unnecessary.
Drilling the weeping hole above the check vale negates the check valve. Do not do this. The weeping hole should be between the pump discharge and check valve and above the impeller. After installing the threaded check valve on the pump, I drill right through the pump housing and the threaded section of the check valve just below the flap. Works every and all the time
In this video I do not recommend drilling above the check valve. Though it is a very common practice in cold climates to allow the lines to drain back into the tank to prevent the lines from freezing. A hole in the pipe above the check valve does not eliminate the need for a vent hole. I would say it is unnecessary to drill a vent hole in the cast iron as a hole in the pipe functions just as well and doesn't use up nearly as many drill bits. In case you are thinking the fitting coming out of the pump is the check valve, it is not. That is a PVC SCH 40 male adapter with a slip x thread bushing in it. I like to install my check valves higher up for easier access and inspection without the need to pull the pump.
Thank you so much for this well done video. I had a very noisy check valve and installed one of the check valves that has a trapped air column to dampen the water hammer. Does it matter how high on the volute the dampening check valve is mounted and if not what in your opinion is the best dampening check valve available. Standard residential system with PVC. Volute is straight vertical about 8 feet to horizontal discharge. Please help before my wife does something nasty . Again many thanks.
Will this help on start up with cavitation?
So the weep hole will be submerged at all times correct?
Ideally, yes.
You said to drill the vent hole 3" or 4" above the pump discharge, looks like the hole shown is around 6" or 8" above the pump discharge. What is the ideal height of the vent hole. Also, the Zoeller pump I have has a vent hole built into it, is it really necessary to drill another hole in the pvc discharge pipe? Just wondering.... Thanks
Anywhere below the top of the pump. Yes, the instructions for Zoeller pumps with a vent hole instruct you to still drill a vent hole in the discharge pipe.
Even after effluent pump water is sent to drain field, is it normal for effluent water to reside in pipes. Hence the check valve?
Yes
Silly question - my Zoeller setup has a vent hole that I first thought was a cracked pipe. Now realize whoever installed the system did it intentionally. However, the vent hole is above the water line at all times which means I get a hell of splash/spray noise. Nothing around the pump to damage and no water spraying out of the sump hole, but its super alarming in the basement to hear splashing water. Should the vent hole be above or below the water level?
The vent hole can be drilled above or below the water level in your sump. You can replace that first stick of pipe coming out of your pump and redrill the vent hole lower to eliminate that sound. Thanks for the question!
I am going to replace my pump today and I realized that the old pump did not have a whole in the pipe but it lasted 13 yrs before I bought the home.
I like the vent hole in the riser pipe above the check valve, in a good number of basement pump installs the riser pipe is roughly 10 feet, 1 and one half inch diameter, So that's several pounds of water that the pump has to start up against and get moving. I believe that stresses the motor and over time can cause failure. I have not noticed any adverse effects from doing this other than the slight hissing sound the water makes as it escapes. I'd be interested in any feedback you have about doing this.
Not how pumps work...i.e. water tower
If I have a check valve installed on the pump, wouldn’t drilling this hole defeat the purpose and allow water to run into the tank?
That is why it is important to drill the hole below the check valve
I just hooked up a 1/2hp Zoeller tonight with 24ft flex hose. The push on check valve is maybe 2 -3 inches about the base discharge screw in spot. I was going to do a pvc riser and check valve being much higher but I was told it's not good to attach flex discharge pipe to pvc riser. Should I still try to drill 3/16th hole an inch below very low check valve?
I would replumb it back in correctly using PVC pipe or you'll eventually get flooded like I did.
This is true. I didn't do this with a $350 Zoeller and it died on me after a year. I've got a crap Coleman in there now with a corded float that I hate, but I had to do an emergency switch with near freezing water up to my ankles so I didn't have time to research or even think about what I was doing. This Coleman piece of garbage has been working fine for 4 years now. That Zoeller probably would have run 20 years if I put this damn little hole in there.
The Zoeller already has a weeping hole. No need for this. By installing a weeping hole above the check valve you negate the check valve. All the water in the pipe you just pumped out will drain back into the sump causing your pump to run excessive and fail prematurely
@@1seriousgearheadify Maybe the new ones do, but the one I bought 5 or 6 years ago didn't, and the installation instructions directed you to make one of your own.
Long story short, read the instructions. Don't be a dummy (like me).
@@thedude5295 Weeping hole generally in the pump housing above the impeller itself not discharge pipe.
@@1seriousgearheadify Thank you for the tip. But the instructions for the installation that I ignored when installing it called for making your own weeping hole in the pipe. I figured that out after the thing died on me in less than a year and the dude I bought it from on Amazon wouldn't take it back and got me in contact with a Zoller approved shop that wanted to charge me $100 to fix it.
If they all have them now, that's great. I know my Coleman that's in there now doesn't and had the same instructions on it. My weeping hole feeds onto a sheet of aluminum I put across from it and the cap is off of the well so I can hear that thing pissing like a racehorse whenever it goes off. I'm rather paranoid about another one failing on me now, after having to change out a pump in knee high freezing cold water not once, but twice in 2 years. :)
Don't assume anything, is all I'm saying. If you're doing something like installing something designed to spare thousands or tens of thousands of dollars of avoidable damage DIY style, make sure you follow the instructions.
My submersible pump has the vent hole and I barely used it for more than 20 minutes.
I was pumping out an area dugout of clay , so dirty water.
The pump now pisses out of the vent hole.
My pump works with a garden hose so i just reverse the hose to clear the the inside of the pump and as well blew air in vent hole.
Got the pump working but didn’t last once i started pumping the dirty water with clay it started with the problem again.
The pump is new is the pump basically worthless I dont want to open it for nothing or bring it back to the store as it has a 30 day return policy.
I would appreciate any feedback from anyone.
Thank you.
How many seconds will it take for an air relief hole to be clogged on my sewage pump?
My sump pump is outdoor and its vent hole gets clogged up causing air locks maybe a few times a year. Any advice to manage this? What type of alarm can help with this?
Give us a call: 855.329.4519
Just clean it periodically or drill a 2nd hole
Why is the discharge hole not drilled directly below the check valve? Isnt that the most likely ceiling of the cup that traps air??
The problem we're trying to prevent is air in the volute of the pump. As long as the pump is full of water it will push and air in the pipe through.
@@RCworstwater Oh wow, I totally understand now. It’s to prevent air locking in the impeller / pump which would burn up. Ok this makes complete sense. I watched a couple videos of them turning on and they definitely shoot out pocket of air in the first half a second. And yes this pocket of air does blow out the front typically pretty hard. Thank you for explaining
does this small hole affect the water pressure the pump delivers to evacuate the sewer water into the main sewer I have a 5 foot rise?
You do sacrifice a small amount of water/pressure, but not enough for it to be a concern.
I have a pump in a 22" diameter hole connected to a 2" PVC pipe running outside. On the first cycle the pump empties the hole as I would expect a 2" to do. The next cycle the pump's output reduces to ~25% of capacity. I tried the vent hole but experienced the same scenario.
It will not draw the water level down low enough to allow the float to drop and shut the pump off. Any thoughts or ideas would be appreciated. Thanks
It sounds like it is getting airlocked or your check valve has failed... More than likely an air lock issue. You could also try raising the float a few inches so the water level does not drop so far and maybe that will stop the pump from sucking air.
I have a Meyers grinder. It’s in the crawl space (‘85) I can sometimes hear it knocking. Why? Does it need a tank vent or is the 4” supply enough? Thanks
Jim, I suggest you give our experts a call: 855.329.4519
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Thanks for the sub!
Thank you, very well done.
Where does the vent hole need to be located? Should it be above the normal water level in the basin? Close to the level of the top of the pump (even if that means it's under water)? Any recommendation?
In the discharge piping, above the pump but under the check valve. Preferably under water angled down so it's not spraying up.
R.C. Worst & Co., Inc. Thank-you
So this is why when the pump is in use pumping water out, it is also spitting water out the pump? Or does this mean my tubing is not tight enough?
I am not sure I understand your question. Please give us a call: 855.329.4519
I've had 3 different Little Giant pumps in my sump over the years - No vent hole - Never had any issue.
What am I doing wrong?
My pump has been running 16 years without a vent hole. First time I've ever heard it airlock was last week after the float switch was replaced and being tested. It was discovered by the second plumber that it needed what he called a "weep hole" I still wonder if it's necessary.
@X6800 airlock is possible mostly if your pit goes dry. If your pump is always submerged, you may never have an issue.
Hey, good video - quick question, how often is too often for a dump pump cycle run?
There's no real answer as it depends on the volume of water in the sump basin. Our neighbor's house in the Midwest turned on every 30 seconds in the heaviest of rains.
@@kcmaldonado3948 Thanks for taking the time to reply. Since I posted the question I learned a lot about how this house takes the rain water in and how long it takes for the pump to operate a little less than every min or so a it was that day. We've got 3 days of rain again this week and by the end of the second day it started to run crazy again for like 12h until it slowed down again.... I also figured what was wrong with my water powered secondary pump that helps when the primary is in trouble...
What could cause a drain pump to run for the same amount of time but drain more volume of water?
There's no electrical as the pressure sensor and control board has been
It's an Electrolux commercial dishwasher where the drain pump is running for the same amount of time as before but is pumping more water out the wash tank than usual after completing every cycle.
The drain pump has a vent valve could this being blocked by dirt cause an issue (like you said vortexing)
Vortexing is a strong possibility
I have a question the hole that my sump pumps sits in is basically bricks surrounding it while in the ground. When the sump pump suck the water out I can see where the water is coming from if I patch that section up will it cost future problems?
Sump pumps are used to pump water out and away from the foundation. Why would you want to stop water from coming in to the pit?
Well to stop the hole from feeling up. I don’t know a lot about sump pumps so I didn’t know if it would make a bigger problem if I did that.
As long as your pump is emptying the pit faster than the water is filling it no action is needed, just let the little guy do his job. Check out our sump pump tips video, I think you'll find it helpful:ua-cam.com/video/LAquntA5Ba0/v-deo.html
great info thanks so much
Thanks for watching! Glad you enjoyed it.
A vortex in my reservoir, that'll be the day. Maybe my sump pump will suck up the rainwater from the clouds as well...come on, man
I tried it. Using a 1/8" downward vent hole. Started new pump and water started spraying in upward direction from the pit. What did I do wrong?
Was the water spraying up from the hole or bouncing off the wall and coming up? As long as it does not spray out of the pit you should be ok
The video says to us an upward vent to avoid this specif spraying issue.
nice job! I noticed for my Zoeller M53 sump pump does have weep hole in the exact location as your sample pump in the video. I do not have a weep hole on my pvc pipe but it's running fine and I do try to clear the hole on the Zoeller SP once a year. Do I still need to drill a weephole? My previous sump pump lasted 13 years without a weep hole on the PVC pipe and replaced it in 2017 (just because it's 13 years but nothing was wrong with it).
Zoeller recommends that you drill a weep hole even if your pump has one. The pump's weep hole is quite easily clogged, and the second one will add a layer of redundancy.
100% agreement with this reply, from a guy who had a Zoeller with it's own weep hole and ignored the directions to make one in the pipe. It failed after a year, and I had to put in an emergency install of a crap replacement from the nearest store that cost half the price and has worked for 4 years now (and has a weep hole in both the pipe and the unit itself).
You don't want to take any chances here. Trust me. You can always figure out a way to cover up and deaden the noise (there will be a LOT of noise created). But you aren't going to be able to save everything that is going to get wet.
What was your previous pump that lasted 13yrs?
@@Kiddro22 moved in 19 years ago. Never replaced pump. Zoeller. Pumps water from outside drain and washer. Getting a new one just cuz.
@@johnnybeanz1296 I’ve always had a Wayne pump. But it was always either a Wayne or Zoeller
I find this a little confusing when compared to the watchdog emergency sump pump installation manual. They require a vent hole drilled above the waterline (I think they mean high waterline). This seems counterintuitive to me; I can see a hole above the low waterline allowing the impeller to be fully immersed, but see no need to go as high as above the high waterline
It looks like their install instruction illustrate the hole above the low water line. So drilling the hole 3-4" above your pump should still work well in your situation. Thanks for watching!
h ananomous. hole should be at about the pumps height.
Wait. That alarm will tell me that the pump is running?
Awesome! Thx.
would this apply to am effluent pump as well?
Yes
Pretty neat that he used the 3/16" bit on both the discharge and then his ear lobes👍 on a serious note... nice video.
Thanks 👍
You drilled the hole much, much too high on the riser pipe. The Everbilt check valves sold by The Home Depot have a small hole, about 3 mm (1/8 in) diameter, at the top of the male thread that screws into the base of the sump pump. That's high enough to guarantee that the pump impeller will be 100% immersed in water before starting, but low enough that the stream of water coming out of the hole will always be under the water level in the sump, thus preventing a splashing problem. I've operated sump pumps for years without such a hole and have never had problems with the pumps not being able to start due to air around the impeller.
@Milosz Ostrow I think you are right about the height of the hole in cases where the liquid level is allowed to travel below the top of the pump. I personally always advise against allowing the liquid level to fall below 3" above the pump for optimal pump life. I understand that not everyone has the depth to accommodate, so in those cases your advice is great. There are many low profile options for adding a vent hole much lower as needed. As I mention in the video, many pumps today feature a vent hole in the volute (including the pump in the video). Thanks for the comment & for watching!
Hey there. I've watched a lot of your videos and was able to do my first sump pump install thanks to them. So I have a zoeller m53. 1/3 hp pump. I also have the back up pump with battery. The reason I switched was because the float switch was going bad in my first one. Long story short, after everything's done I have a ticking sound? I have two check valves on it. The one that threads into the pump isn't sealing that great. I took it apart and ran it under my kitchen faucet to see and the water pretty much dripped out. So the water runs back in. Granted this is about 1.5 to 2ft of pipe because the zoeller check valve further up works perfectly. My question is do I need two check valves? I assume yes because it would keep the back up pump from pumping into my main? I guess the new piece is just faulty and I should try another. Any suggestions? Looking for a threaded check valve to hook into the pump. Thanks!
Yes, you need two check valves on those systems. Take a look on our website: www.rcworst.com/Valves-c80.html?Attribs=502&
All water in discharge pipe will be drained back and pump will work much often
That would be true if you drilled the hole ABOVE the check valve, which is often done for freeze protection when the discharge pipe is not buried deep enough. In the video we instruct you to drill it below the check valve so you are only draining the water in the short pipe between the pump and check valve.
Does the vent hole still apply when you have a check valve?
Yes. Without the vent hole air can get trapped between the pump and the check valve and air-lock the pump.
R.C. Worst & Co., Inc. ok...thank you...I believe that is what is happening. When our pit fills with water from the washer, it can take hours for it to empty. The pump was recently replaced.
@@rickschultz737 i hope you're not draining your clothes washing machine into the sump pump. Not only is it illegal, but your going to get lint trapped in the impeller and burn out the motor.
R.C. Worst & Co., Inc. I have a shallow space, my check valve comes directly off the pump due to height maximum. Can the hole be in the rubber below the check valve flap?
Thanks!
@@Pro1er I have the same situation and my sump drains to septic system as required in my Michigan county. Is that still a problem, i.e. - having the washer draining into the sump?
So... After replacing 2 pumps, and figuring out a lot about how they work, how sump wells work, and how house drainage systems in general work, I'd like to spend some time this winter ripping it all out and making a lot of adjustments to things like installing a new check valve, making my weep hole lower and pointing downward, getting all of the rubble and dirt out of the bottom of the well and having just the gravel or a paver for the pump and making it much lower so I can trigger it before it engulfs the 4" inlet pipe and puts another 6" to 8" of water on top of it like it does now (It takes way too long for my pump to really start working during heavy rains, and then it spends the next two days going off every 3 or 4 minutes playing catch up when it could be spending the first half of the day actually working instead of waiting for gravity to push enough water in the well up to get it going)
My question to the channel (or to anyone else here), is how do you detach the PVC from the pump after it's been glued on? I could just buy some connectors when I make it longer, but I'd rather have a straight pipe with the only break being the check valve.
Once it's glued your only option is to cut it unless you have a union installed somewhere. We sell True Union check valves on our website for this exact application: www.rcworst.com/Spears-True-Union-PVC-Spring-Check-Valve-2-S1780-20-Socket-p1894.html
@@RCworstwater the earings are unusual in some circles.
How to repair sump pump if the suction pressure is low?
Install a new one? It's been 6th months since your comment, so I hope you didn't figure out the answer the hard way.
I have boring out of my house and have water connections in 6 houses and there is a walve outside of every house if all walve off and summer pump is turned on then what will be the solution
Adult
What if air gets in the pipe above the drilled hole in the discharge pipe, but below the check valve? Wouldn't it still be air trapped that can't get out?
The hole is to prevent airlock in the pump itself. Once air is out of the pump the water that it is moving will push any air in the pipe out.
so there is no reason to drill a hole in the extraction riser
Not getting required flow from 50 hp centrifugal pump
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UA-cam VIDEO STRIKE 3: no graphics, only words. It's a video...
do not drill a hole larger than this guys gages! :D
why
@@bobyang3350 I'm assuming because of the massive amount of water that already comes out of a hole 3/16th of an inch. Every time my pump goes off in my crawlspace, it sounds like a horse pissing that I can hear from the bedroom on the 2nd floor. I could cover it up, but after two failed pumps since I've lived here, I like knowing that it's running. I think if you start going to a 1/4" hole or larger your pump is going to be wasting half of its time and energy re-pumping water that it's already shot out but keeps getting recycled.
I just want to know what will happen if I used a sump pump with 320gpm flow but actually I only need 75gpm flow? Please give advise..thanks..
Depending on the pump and system...likely I'd say cavitation as your pump will run off the curve to the right...
@@diyplumbing2463 how about easy calculation for the capacity of booster pump? If my water tank is at the top of the roof? Thanks..
@@cassielliejemssamson2902 let me double back, if you have a pump that is say 320 gpm at 25 ft head and you only need it to be 75 gpm. Well that depends, is the pump capable of 75 gpm without falling all the way to the left of the curve. If it can, than put a valve on the discharge and create false head. This would bring the pump back to 75 gpm.
Asking for a friend: This doesn't make sense. The hole you're recommending to drill is literally on a vertical pipe, where any air would rush to the top of the pipe vertically. How would that fix airlock INSIDE the pump. This adds air constantly to what would typically be a closed system without air in it.
The pump can move water. The hole gives the air a place to escape when the pump is placed into water or if it runs dry and fills back up.
Thank you!!!!!!
Thanks for watching! If you have ANY questions or concerns about your pump system you can leave a comment, call our experts at 855.329.4519 or you can live chat with them on our website: RCWorst.com
What size is 3,16th never learn that with common core. Lol
4mm or .1875 thousands of an inch
Might be a good thing to learn by looking it up on computer,
interesting
My Little Giant 1/2 HP sewage pump failed less than 2 years, and Franklin Electric does not want to replace it. This kind of Company should disappear in America.
The sexual references are strong in this one.
the hole is perfectly straight with the discharge pipe
Have you ever heard of sump pumps being used for sewer?
Thanks for the question! Pumping raw sewage requires that the pump be able to pass 1.5-2" solids at minimum. Sump pumps would not fair well in sewage application because they have very limited solids handling capabilities (typically less than 1/2").
Thanks for replying. I was just wondering because I just bought a house with a sump pump. And on the final walk through I found out the sump pump is being used for the sewer, not for standing water under the house. It's worked like this since 2006 when the house got put on public sewer, and the pump has been replaced once and is 3 years old. It worked for them so I hope it works for us. Can't really afford a pro to come look at it at the moment.
It could also be a sewer pump and they just don't know the proper wording for it. I hope that's what the deal is. Lol
If it lasted 10 years it must be a sewage pump. If it ends up being a sump pump come replacement you better send it to Guinness!
If you can get the model number off of the pump you can confirm for you yourself - if it's still running after 3 years I'd say you're good.
R.C. Worst & Co., Inc. thanks! :)
Listening to you is like 🙄🤦🏻🤷🏻♂️🤔🤔🤔
watching cement dry 🤨😭😳😳😫😖
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