GAPPING PLANKS! Glue Down Vinyl WARNING, Shrinking and Gapping - Telling 4 Year Review!
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- Опубліковано 25 чер 2024
- Our glue down vinyl plank floors have continued to shrink and gap each year since their original install, and we dive strait into sharing everything we can about it in this video.
Video Contents
0:00 Introduction how our Vinyl has changed since install
1:25 Examples of small gaps starting in floors
2:29 Large gaps between planks by window areas
2:55 Gapping planks in middle of house
3:20 Gaps we tried to repair
4:05 Foyer minimal gapping
4:19 Close up of large gaps and issues they cause
6:07 Why we installed click Vinyl in basement
6:45 Example of problem with click system
7:27 Ease of repair of glue down vinyl
8:22 Summary, would we use glue down vinyl again
If you find this video helpful, we've got more content coming soon about all the lessons we've learned on this build, all the builds I have been involved in with the family business, and all our upcoming projects!
Whether you are doing the work with your own hands, or managing subcontractors to help you complete the work, want to help viewers of any experience level better understand building science and why certain building methods fail, what products to use and which ones to avoid, technical details to make sure that you are building things to last, and that you can feel good and have fun doing it!
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What brand? Tarkett???
You had a bad story with that vinyl. Since it is a PVC/plastic and the glue is never curing, with potential health hazard, I would say that is a big NO-NO.
You're honesty is what makes this truly valuable, so THANK YOU!!! You rarely hear of a man that bought a bad horse, so this is refreshing and will influence my upcoming decisions.
I can understand your frustration. We sell a lot of 5MM "looselay" that we glue down residentially and commercially and have not had issues. Most are surprised when we recommend. With underlayment - the 2.5-3 MM will work in residential as well. Should not be installed Looselay though- needs to be glued down. Lots of factors involved. #1 - the adhesive used. They range from $83/ 4 gallon to $150/ 4 gallon pail- dealer cost. Guess which will perform better and hold up to sunlight? Mapei 399 is a newer adhesive designed just for gapping- really locks in place. Also, the material has a lot to do with it. Some manufacturers include a spec for dimensional stability - like .002"-.004" max- I would purchase those products. Of course, they cost more- probably not "middle of the road". Last, the locking products- there are only a few with a good name- stick to those. Other mfg's will not stand behind if you have problems- I've heard from several owners of retail flooring businesses. Coreloc has a good name, and there are some others, but fix your subfloors first(level) and you will be much happier.
I'm doing my bedroom in vinyl plank this weekend and have been going back and forth on glue down vs click for looks and I appreciate videos like this
What did you decide?
Dude I love how you keep updating cus at first it was all good but time always tells thank you so much
Hey Mitch, Glad to see you back with more of this content. Been Subscribed since the beginning. Thanks for the truth, never heard back from either of the two glue downs we've done in the past. so far so good.
Hi Mark! Glad to be back and have more stuff in the pipeline! Good to hear you haven't had the service issues, I have spoken with some other installers and sales people at this point as well as cruised through reddit and UA-cam comments and there is certainly no shortage of people starting to have this issue!
Glad to see you back making videos again man!
Thanks Matt, glad to be back, really excited to get back into the content creation rhythm!!!
Awesome!!! Thanks for the video.
omg thank you for sharing this!!! Trying to decide what kind of flooring update we are going to do.
Thank you for this video.
Thank you for your video. Your reason for using that product is EXACTLY the same reason I went for that product in my first home. But yes, the lifting, the heat, the gaps…is it really worth it!?! 🤔 the jury is out on that one lol
It’s important that the flooring material acclimates in the room it being installed for a minimum of 5 days before installation. Also, spread the boxes out around the room. Don’t leave them stacked while acclimating. I have probably installed over a million square feet of this stuff and haven’t had any issues
Does LVP glue down need to assimilate? I’ve heard it does not but I guess it depends on other variables too
This video could not have come at a better time! Very good and honest review! We will be going click lvp for our entire house! The lvp looks very nice and is so durable. As for the crack at least you know it is something you did and tile I’m guessing would have had the same result. Awesome video!
I'm glad to here it helped you make a good decision, that's what it is all about!!! I think in the future the marketplace will slowly push laminate and glue down out vs click LVP and engineered hardwoods. Thanks for taking the time to comment!
Here in Ohio we are push the glue down. So many problems with the click. Coming apart on short ends. Cupping anywhere the sun hits it. Honestly, if it’s not 3/8” thick or more, we don’t want to lay it. We do acclimate our glue down jobs. Thanks for the video.
Awesome turnout! Also very true about the crumbs getting stuck in the cracks. Lots of effort to clean them out! 👏🏼 I agree, although some areas aren’t so bad, the click looks so much more “finished” without the gaps.
Agreed, and I wonder if the gaps allowing water in and potentially under then planks over time could start to unseat the planks / the glue.
Click floor can get cracks too. 😢
Thnx so much for sharing ur experience... I'm considering plank installation for my home... I live in the Caribbean and thought the glue down wud hv been a good choice but hving seen ur vid i think the click system wud be the better choice for my home ... peace and prosperity 🙏🏿
Great video. We just started getting edge gaps on pergo floor. It’s near a window with sunlight. Wow glad we did interlock but the gaps are concerning.
Thank you for such a thorough breakdown. My wife and I have been contemplating our new floor product and are unsure about LVP even with the salesman talking it up
This was super super helpful. Thank you thank you! I was leaning towards glue down. I am in Arizona and intense UV sun constantly comes through the windows. So thumbs down to glue down. The only issue is that as a DIY guy my subfloor is not going to be perfectly flat. Maybe I can use self leveling cement or something? Oh did I say thank you a million times!
Im a professional kitchen and bathroom installer and time to time we install LVT glued on flooring. I have to admit you have the good point about the gaps
What size notch do you guys use? Some of the adhesive say 1/32. Seems to dry almost too fast.
This is just the video I needed to see bc I was just about t to purchase glue down for my basement. I had these kind on concerns but of coarse every floor sales person say it all good. Thanks so much. I now have my answer for basement floor 👍👌
Glad the video was helpful Rick. It honestly just seems like this product hasn't been around long enough for everyone to really know how it will continue to hold up. It sort of reminds me of poly-b plumbing that was the plastic plumbing of the 80's before pex until 15 years later when people found it springing leaks.
But, how much light does your basement get?? Was it the UV light that split his gaps? Was it the type of floor or the glue he used itself?? Did the planks move or shrink?? I do imagine this guy used a quality floor, not some 2nd class "Job Lot" floor...
I do all kinds of flooring. The glue down lasts 100 % better. High temp glue… is the answer... It handles pets and messy kids…
Buy the good stuff
Cheap click is a nightmare… the cluck also breaks as you put it down...
Thanks
Hi, thanks for your updated. Was your plants 'clickable' planks?
I used glue down vinyl and a few years later there are huge 1/8-3/16" and even some 1/4" gaps all over the floor! Absolutely hate it, the dirt getting stuck inside is disgusting, and being able to see the subfloor through the floor is such an obvious eyesore... the cost and suffering involved in trying to remove all the planks and all the glue, especially in the bathroom to have to pull the cast iron tub and toilet to get access is the reason it's not getting fixed. So mad about this product obviously being defective and manufactures lies about how it was going to hold up and be stable.... just criminal!
Glue down LVP is one of the easiest floor to repair.
You just heat it and peel it up and stick a new one right back down.
Of course it would be a couple hours to rearrange all the rows but it's not the end the of the world and its completely DIY
Just convinced me to use click planks.
I have some gaps in my vinyl floor. I used black silicone to fill them. Looks okay and I'm hoping it will flex with the floor and not deteriorate too much over time
I am having issues with an install I just did at a house, and have had other installation site issues. All new subfloor, and the dining room keeps buckling or gapping. Its the SUN. Do not install these floors anywhere that gets direct sun or has extreme temperature variations. On the bright side, those planks are glued down with pressure sensitive adhesive. You can peel up the plank carefully, close the gap and push it back down without reglueing*. Thankyou for posting this.
I have that exact vinyl plank on my floor and same issues . It has been 7 years since I had it installed and it is shrinking and lifting throughout my home . 2 things I noted : 1) the guy that installed my floor never rolled it , I believe this has had an impact on my problems with this floor . 2) Some of the plank ends on my floor are lifting & curve upwards slightly ,I was using the beater bar on my dyson and I believe this has excerbated the issue .I'm going to roll the floor when the weather warms up ( I'm in Northern Alberta) and see if that makes a difference , I now vacuum with the beater bar off ...I have armstrong lvp in my bedrooms , it also shifted and gapped like this in a much shorter amount of time . I had the flooring company redo the bedroom floors with the same planks and the installer rolled the floor . Hasn't moved in 5 years and looks pristine ....
Do you think shrinkage will happen with the new vinyl peel and stick or only the glue down ones? We have done lvl click and lock and they don’t scratch but have had problems of breakage corners, lifting, etc. had hardwood before that and scratched like crazy. Like idea of peel and stick bc if one goes bad can pull up and replace if needed where as vinyl click is harder to do that
Thanks for the video. Currently trying to decide between Vinyl and hybrid flooring. The problem with hybrid is that we would need an expansion join in the middle of a hallway, and another between the kitchen and dinning 😣
Interesting what is the hybrid made up of? I've never heard of having to include an expansion joint I wonder how it would look / tie in with the rest of the interior design.
We’re in a new build…SW Ohio. Our builder put in LVL’s and AdvanTech subfloors & finished floors are LVP click & lock. We have squeaky floors all over…even in a carpeted area. We were assured there would be no squeaks with the subfloor’s. The only issues with the LVP is small pieces not vacuumed underneath or screw head popping up. So at our 1 yr mark all this will have to get resolved.
The maintenance on these vinyl planks is easy to clean and keep clean. We had Pergo Timbercraft Laminate in a different house & it had a more upper end expensive look to it…easy maintenance as well. I have friends with hardwood and the floors are scratched horribly from pets & kids. So guess there’s always a pay off from our choices.
Hi Jaclyn I agree there are pros and cons to all options. I assume your subfloors were glued and screwed? Do you happen to know exactly what is causing the squeaks, or whether it is coming from the joists of the LVP itself? Do you know what type of bridging is used between your floor joists/ is your basement finished? Best regards, Mitch.
Most squeaky floors are the nails that missed or didn't hold that rub against the floor joists. I hate squeaking floors, I wouldn't be happy after spending the money on what seems to be some very good materials...
I tried to do a walk through video of a house with LTV flooring. When listening to each screen play back. It sound like a ghost. I was like is the house haunted. Then I shot the room video without moving my feet when I panned the room with the camera. The ghost sound was gone. Never realized the floor makes so much noise when walking across it.
Man, thaaanks❤🎉 I am in Romania and here, due to the wonderful 4 seasons and 3 of them hummid 😂😂😂 everyone is like "use wood!" or " justbuse the click system". But as you said when you just got this one: I need smth that is dog proof and kid proof 😂 No one could tell me how the plasruc holds cause they don't have it 😂😂😂😂 So thqnk you so so much! 🎉🎉🎉
This was very interesting. We were wondering if we had been scammed by our contractor because maybe he had used inferior vinyl tile or that he put them down wrong. But now it appears that this is just the way stick down vinyl planks act over time. It is still so much better than carpet and the main reason we chose it was price, so we got what paid for I guess.
These gaps are inevitable, sometimes due to manufacturing faults, fluctuations in temperature or moisture ingress. If you don't deliberately look for perfection, it's not a big deal. If it is a problem, a filler with matching colour can be filled in.
Did you keep any pieces to make slices and fill back in?
Hey buddy, did you use high temperature glue under the planks? I mentioned your issues to a flooring inspector today as my current floating floor has issues and he says to use high temperature glue to avoid this happening...?
maybe if you taped off all around the larger gaps and filled them with shellac, which has a natural tinted reddish honey color, that would fill the gaps and the shellac as a filler would not shrink...this would not work on all color floors but it would work on some brown tones, just apply it to the gap with a small artist's brush...just an idea I had that may work for some
Perhaps it's dependent on the time of the year that it's initially installed? If in winter when the boards are cold and at their smallest would over come when they expand in the summer? I've installed around 250m2 in Thailand (hot and humid) and have very little shrinkage
Can you talk about the type of flooring you used? I'm wondering if this happens with the newer SPC vinyl, but it would also be good to know how thick the layers are for your floor.
yes please specify the type and thickness you've used for your floor. the sales person that showed us the glued vinyl showed us various thickness and we liked the thicker one. plus it's easy to replace one plank.
What brand did you use? Your other video where you share a link, it does not work. Please share the brand.
What was the manufacturers response to your problem. Iam just about to have some loose lay planks installed on a concrete basement floor,with glue
this makes me wonder, not a lot of sunlight there. thanks
What brand glue & lvp did u use? What thickness is your lvp?
I’m having this exact issue with Karndean Van Gogh planks. Any idea if this is covered by warranty?
I wonder if there is something to what you say about the ones in the front entrance getting a lot of water and snow brought in on it. It'd be interesting to know if there was a measurable moisture content difference between the planks that have shrank a lot vs. not really at all.
Hmmm, on that note, the kitchen does take quite a bit of water and it has gapped the worse, and the ensuite bath arguably gets the most and it has gapped more than the foyer. The ensuite bath does have a big south and west facing window which normally has the blinds open.
That kind of material does shrink and expand with temperature.. there are better glues than that one. Was there something wrong with subfloor? Tested for moisture? It could be many things or a combination of things. Sucks to have that happen. But you should know if it's the kind of glue I think it is, it could be fixed using majority of the same planks. But you would have to buy some new ones. Plus most importantly get an install that will take their time and troubleshoot. Best of luck!
I wonder if its the subfloor that's causing the issue. I mostly hear about glue down in basements on cement
I think the new WPC and SPC do not have the contraction issues of earlier vinyl
After watching this I have a few questions: 1) Did the subfloor absorb some of the glue so It's not adhering as well as it should? 2) Is that a body of water outside? If it is, couldn't excess humidity be an issue?
Some people complain that the floor is somewhat of a friction material. IOW, it wears out socks, etc. Thoughts?
When these planks are installed, what is the tolerance for these gaps (plank to plank joints)??
Is this covered under the product warranty? From your earlier video, I got the impression it was professionally installed. So, warranty?
You should be working directly with the manufacturer of the product on this.
Their product is *defective* and you deserve answers and compensation.
Was there any off gassing issue?
Also can fill the crack in tha laminate click... Unika sell a filler... same one used for kitchen work top that goes off hard... wont be invisible but better than it is now... lot less noticeable.
Is the adhesive waterproof?
What is the actual flooring that is shown here. Just looking for something to replace a flooded floor in a condo. Someone recommended a click product called Patcraft by Shaw. Looks very similar but I can't find much info on the Patcraft.
This is a from a company called Mannington. This is their Adura Dockside collection, Sand color. They make the same color in different thickness. The click product is thicker!
High Temperature adhesive and good quality vinyl tiles - no problems
Okay, I don't know anything about this, so this may be a stupid question, but why not cut an eighth of an inch strip off of a left over plank and glue it in the gap to fill it in?
As a flooring installer id say click can be a good option but if its a cheaper variety of it you need the floor as leval as humanly possible and ive come to the conclusion that most of the time should be self levaled or else the lock systems will break where it isnt leval and will be much worse than having gaps like in glue down...also repairs on glue down with scratches etc is a breeze ...was ur floor acclimated before installed?(actually curious about if that could of caused it) To fix your glue down id get a heat gun and heat it up itll expand to fill in the gap and than use some tape to hold it in place while it cools so it stretches and doesnt shrink....cant promise thatll work but it comes to mind as potential solution ...end of the day im on the fence prose and cons to both ...i think if i where to do my house in either or id go glue down for how damm easy it is to fix...id do click only if my budget was big enouph to get self leval and a good quality floor.
Happens whether you use high temp adhesive or pressure sensitive. Your LVP is an extruded product and the cheaper products shrink more. Doesnt matter how long you acclimate.
Man that vinyl looks like real wood.
Was it the brand, the thickness, the glue, etc. What does the manufacturer of the vinyl and the glue say?
Looks like someone used Pressure Sensitive Adhesive instead of High Temperature Adhesive. Any room that's exposed to direct sunlight should be glued down with High Temperature Adhesive.
Great point. I'm keeping your comment in my notes. Also, I've always been told that the planks need to be acclimated. Another person stated that the planks should be installed during the right time of the year. Not sure if it's during cold or hot weather
Are these suitable for underfloor heating?
The shrinkage happening in planks itself. I would recommend not to use long planks but short one. It wont affecting as such.
Still happens with high temp glue don’t be mistaken it will bond better but it will still shrink (happens all the time around high heat uv areas like kitchen doors. The glue will only keep its integrity to a certain temp. The sun is powerful specially when enhanced by planes of glass. Luxury vinyl tiles are just problematic go for a stone floor or engineered wood floor. Its all a gimmick this plastic crap just away to make a cheap product with a good mark up for retail! It is not sustainable its a big impact on the planet
@@yevgeniyshawyer2767no it’s all down to adhesive selection they used the wrong adhesive end of story the installer is at fault
Materials of all kinds expand and contract in response to either heat or moisture or both.. you're not going to stop that, you have to accommodate it. My guess is that this vinyl was not acclimated properly, either at the distributor or in the house before it was installed, or it was just plain defective which unfortunately we have encountered with cheaper, made-in-China products. We've also seen end-curling with the Chinese snap-together product. It would have been nice if you had given the brand name, pattern, etc. of the product so it could be researched. Quality manufacturers and distributors will replace defective product at no cost within their warranty period.
Haha replace product.... will they pay to pull the toilets and cast iron tubs and scrape all the glue from the subfloor and the cost of labor to redo it all after it's compeltely ruined with gaps a few years after installation? I think not.... waranty on replacing "the product" only is a joke. The people who sell this stuff should be in jail!!
Anyone know if gapping occurs in a bathroom where the temperature doesn't fluctuate much, no direct sunlight? Plan to use LVT GLUE downs.
Curious if it has something to do with the manufacture? I did my first house and it did great no gapping even with tons of sunlight. Same brand used in workplace, no gapping after many years. New house I did it with different brand, almost one year in and there is gapping already.
What brand worked best for you?
I'm guessing your home lumber was not dry enough and has caused the issues...I would grind up a board and mix with glue to fill the cracks...with the basement board you just cut out the damaged piece and cut the lip off and glue a piece down...very simple to fix.
Subfloor will ALWAYS shift regardless the number of staples. I feel the glue down application would be a better fit for slabs. The click or floating floor is better for subfloor. Speaking from experience and installation history. Great video and wishing you all the luck moving forward.
a 4ft vinyl plank shrinking more than a 16th of an inch is probably not very well formulated. Rubber t-cap is worse, but a good example. We should measure the planks :)
I have engineered wood glued on slab. Does anybody know how to fix it?
Laminate is superior to vinyl plank...and eng wod is superior to laminate and vinyl plank. There are huge downfalls to glue down and click vinyl planks. Glue down vinyl planks will gap seasonally and continue to do so over time and click vinyl planks will fail at the click systems themselves. You MUST have a flatter than flat floor for click vinyl planks, which is extremely difficult to do, to avoid deflection breaking your click. If your wood framing is 16" coc you "may" have a chance it doesnt fail, but most new homes are 19.2" coc or more, and your clicks WILL break from deflection.
Laminate can last up to 5-10 years, vinyl planks can last 3-10 years....but wood floors can last up to 50 years. Vinyl is plastic. Dont buy plastic floors....do your best to put wood floors in your homes if you want them to last.
Maybe the problem was related to the time you gave to the floor to settle before begin with the installation. For what I know it suppose to be inside the place where floor will be installed for 2 days then you can install it.
You are correct. This floor was loaded well in advance. At the time this home was built we were in the process of building 20+ other homes in a nearby subdivision, and it was a trusted flooring supplier / installer who was doing the work, so we had a very solid routine for job prep. Normally we were dealing with hardwood at the time, but the acclimatization principles are very similar. At this point I honestly do believe that the sunlight is shrinking the planks. I will likely try to run some test this summer between how the thin glue down product and the thicker click product react when left out in the direct sun for an extended period of time.
Is there any warranty that you can fall back on?
Dies LVT make the house cold or is it a good heat conduct and makes the hime feel warmer
It is warmer than a ceramic tile, colder than carpet, and about the same as hardwood!
@@BuildLessons I have no underfloor heating and open space like yourself, would you say a couple of radiators would keep the area warm ?
Thank you
@@tyramahmood8904 Many factors involved in that answer so unfortunately I cannot give you a solid answer, contributing factors will include how large your space is, how much glazing you have (windows) which are a big source of heat loss in the winter, how well insulated your structure is, and how much are movement you have.
Is the flooring slippery for dogs??
What’s the bene don the click system? Can it be dropped over an 1 inch tongue and groove as subfloor? No mahogany no OSB. Does it need a mat? Do all click systems need a mat?
The Brand I mean
looks like you needed to acclimate the product in your house first, for about 4-5 years, then install it! :D
The weight crashing to the floor is why rubber gym mats exist.
lol I honestly like the rustic look it gives it
I agree when it comes to the way it looks on a real wood floor, but since this is so thin and you can see through to the subfloor, it just seems to have more of an unfinished or poorly installed feeling.
Could that issue not be because you are glueing the planks to wood floors? Would it not be that the wood underneath itself is causing the issue? As I’d imagine if you had a concrete base floor that’s been levelled correctly may not have this issue?
LVP glue down shrink, put caulk.
LVP Floating, click broke after many adjustment and shift, medium difficulty to replace.
LVP looselay, lay it down on level subfloor, easy to replace.
LOOSELAY is the way to go
Our vinyl plank flooring is now 7 years old & is atrocious. A small child could get lost in our gaps, not to mention the discolouration.
what about loose lay instead of glue down??
I have no heard any direct feedback from anyone who has loose lay installed but I do imagine the shrinkage issue would be the same.
I'm guessing you didn't use a stone polymer core??
You're thinking about gluing down a click-lock product like one of CoreTec's? It seems like that might be a better way to go...
I would just cut it in half and lay a piece that fits perfectly
What about Laminate flooring? Thanks 🙏
I would not choose laminate again for one of my projects. We have used it on builds in the past, and have seen it in many rental apartment applications and it just doesn't hold up. Moisture causes swelling and bubbling of the material and I've had issues with chipping at the edges. It is budget friendly but not for the long term in my own opinion.
@@BuildLessons thanks 🙏.
@@BuildLessons what is the better option, MATTE OR SATIN FINISH VINYL FLOORING IN YOUR OPINION. Thanks
@@BuildLessons I HAVE LAMINATE FLOORING AND I WANT TO REPLACE IT WITH VINYL FLOORING IN MY LIVING AREA ONLY BUT I DON’T KNOW WHAT IS THE DIFFERENCE BETWEEN THE MATTE AND SATIN FINISH VINYL FLOORING. Please help
@@shad6519 Hi there, which product line are you choosing from (brand and line)? Matte vs Satin should only be in reference to the level of shine/ reflectiveness of the clear wear layer, and won't have any bearing on performance. I prefer a matte finish myself, I think it looks less fake. Have you seen the product you are ordering in person / do you have a preference?
Put a piece out in direct sun this summer, and take some measurements of it.
That is a great idea I should do that with a piece or both the click and the glue down. I am going to plan on doing it, I think it will be a great experiment for some content.
They are both literally made of the same thing, they will both expand and contract in the Sun/shade. The problem with this floor is not the product so much as it is the subfloor. If this were on a slab instead there most likely would not be an issue. The glue could possibly be part of the problem as well, but the subfloor is the main culprit. Besides, everyone knows that sunlight (heat) cause expansion, not shrinkage.
@@engedihomestead5017 Really ? You may want to look up why heat makes polyester shrink, and then consider that you and everyone else don't now everything. Then you can look up plasticizers and how they dry out, especially with UV and heat, and cause shrinkage. This is the kind of shrinkage that the vinyl will never recover from, and not simply because of temperature.
We bought this type of flooring from Jordan's Carpet. It was installed by their installer. They never warned us at all. We put our house down to 13 degrees at night. Flooring shrunk so in places 2 toonies would fit. Found out that these floors had to be kept above 18 degrees. Did not know this until i opened a spare box of flooring. Jordans did nothing. Did not even come out to look. Completely denied warranty without even looking at it. Never again jordans. Never again.
Looks like a pressure sensitive adhesive was used.should have used a high temperature wet set adhesive.
Correct it was pressure sensitive adhesive. Do you think the adhesive your mentioning would stop the material shrinkage from happening? I've never seen the adhesive you are talking about and I have some good friends who install floors full time and they are only using the pressure sensitive adhesive. Do lay flooring yourself, or have you had much experience with this type of adhesive? Is there a brand you would recommend or that you are familiar with? Thanks for the inputs.
@Build Lessons yes I've been in the trade for 40 years in the UK.we have the same issues with planks shrinking,usually in areas of direct sunlight or subject to heat.in those areas we always use a high temperature adhesive and pressure sensitive elsewhere.also important to acclimatise planks for a least 24 hours before install.if you have underfloor heating,it's important to turn it off at least 24hours before and 24 hours after install.i would be very surprised if contractors from your country don't do similar.this method will be the best way to stop shrinkage.
Ardex glue is my favourite at the moment. They do a pressure sensitive and a ht one. 👍🏼
I’m also a floor layer in the uk. Just on my daughter’s account 😂
@fretjam we've stopped using pressure sensitive to glue down planks at all. Only hard set now. Too many issues like this one.
You’re handsome and have a beautiful home.
Thank you for the words of encouragement and for watching...more videos to come, we are working on a large content plan for the coming year!
You can cut out that damaged click plank and glue a new one in. You dont need to pull the base and the flooring to replace it. Cut the male ends off the new plank and use a clear gorilla glue. There are plenty of videos to show you how to do it correctly.
Yea but these are glued down and starting to gap not damaged
you can't be sure that you underlay layer is not shifting cos it's not to the concrete you glued
All those full length windows should have been blanked off before fitting... then use High Temperature adhesive... then gradually remove the blanked off windows about 48 hours later... youe LVT was installed incorrectly.
We have replaced all of our click down it was warped in nearly all the planks it only lasted four years so we went with the newer glue down couldent be happier no problems now at all, looks like you may be an amateur if you get a professional you're not going to have any problems
Thank you for being honest. Everyone has got to remind themselves what Vinyl is. Its plastic. A petroleum based, plastic product, will always be affected by UV rays. I hate the marketing agencies and labeling vinyl as "luxury/LVP" in any sense. Its complete sales talk hogwash!
I'm not understanding why you won't share the manufacturer of this product. It could very well be because of the quality so please share if you are going to post this video.
I can't speak for him but I would bet my life it's Mannington Adura LVP .I have the identical product in my home
he listed the manufacturer as a response to a previous comment. @donwarrington4916 is correct. Its Mannington. Not sure why he wasnt more upfront with it...I wanted to know too
I’d bet my life that when it warms up the gaps will disappear. Think vinyl siding.
You can glue down hardwood or laminate, but vinyl.. not at all!
If you would use much shorter planks it wont be as noticeable as
Were the planks made in China?
The manufacturer is Mannington, they are a large company based out of NJ, and as far as I am aware the do create their product in the US but I am not able to verify this on their website.
Most of them are these days, I'd be willing to bet that even if he thought he bought a quality floor that the material itself is the issue, it's shrinking...
To be on the safe side NEVER use glue down vinyl floors!
Click is junk, glue down ! If you want to repair cut a patch and glue in, you can’t cut clicky these people are so stuck on this click junk because it’s cheap. I’m a pro who does flooring and I’ve had it with click junk, the end seams are micro thin, they show overtime,unrepairable. Get a good glue down you won’t regret.
Lvp is the thing in ga.I can show you 5 year old glue down that is perfect.installers fault on yours.
I have the exact same problem. No curtains in my living room so sun beams down and the gaps are HUGE. Can't kick them back into place. It's driving me insane!
How long has the product been installed? Which brand did you use?!
@@BuildLessons About 4 years. Not sure on the brand. My gaps are way bigger than yours in some areas, I'm using a putty to fill them up. Don't care at this point if it's ideal because the gaps look way worse than what a sh*tty putty would. Probably will never get vinyl plank ever again.
Same here - have 1-16" - 1/4" gaps everywhere in a bathroom which gets NO SUNLIGHT a few years after glue down vinyl installation. There were ZERO gaps when it was laid down, it looked perfect at first... it's criminal how this stuff shrinks over time, and it's not due to heat or light (though I'm sure that would make it worse.) What is the point of floors that look like $%!# a few years after they're put in???
@@AA-zq1sx Yeah dude, a few months after using the putty I am pretty happy with it. Haven't filled the entire place out with putty, and you can see the putty inbetween the boards but its better than having the gaps and small things piling up in the gaps. I'd recommend a good putty.