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You had a bad story with that vinyl. Since it is a PVC/plastic and the glue is never curing, with potential health hazard, I would say that is a big NO-NO.
You're honesty is what makes this truly valuable, so THANK YOU!!! You rarely hear of a man that bought a bad horse, so this is refreshing and will influence my upcoming decisions.
I can understand your frustration. We sell a lot of 5MM "looselay" that we glue down residentially and commercially and have not had issues. Most are surprised when we recommend. With underlayment - the 2.5-3 MM will work in residential as well. Should not be installed Looselay though- needs to be glued down. Lots of factors involved. #1 - the adhesive used. They range from $83/ 4 gallon to $150/ 4 gallon pail- dealer cost. Guess which will perform better and hold up to sunlight? Mapei 399 is a newer adhesive designed just for gapping- really locks in place. Also, the material has a lot to do with it. Some manufacturers include a spec for dimensional stability - like .002"-.004" max- I would purchase those products. Of course, they cost more- probably not "middle of the road". Last, the locking products- there are only a few with a good name- stick to those. Other mfg's will not stand behind if you have problems- I've heard from several owners of retail flooring businesses. Coreloc has a good name, and there are some others, but fix your subfloors first(level) and you will be much happier.
Did you mean COREtec (not Coreloc? Also, do you have some other reputable names? How do you find out which manufacturers will stand behind their product? Thanks for your initial comment….its very informative!
I think he also didn't take in account the affect of the expansion and retraction of his subfloor as well that might contributed more to the gaping in mu opinion, but still I feel like the product he used definitely temperture sensitive
Ive installed this lvp in two rental homes. On the first home i used Mohawk and the glue they recommend. Its been installed now about 10 years and looks great with no gapping. On the second rental i used a cheap Chinese brand and there is huge gaps of about 1/4 inch in the front rooms. What i realized is where i have the gaps is where i put the least amount of adhesive because my trowel had wore down scraping on the concrete floor. So even though i used cheap products including the glue it came down to not having enough adhesive.
Flooring installer here with a few things to look into. First did you make sure the installers used the manufactures recommended adhesive and acclimated the materials according to manufactures recommendations? If so then id have the floor inspected by an independent inspector or contact the manufacture for a warranty claim. They will then likely send an inspector out to verify all installation procedures were followed as that is typically their way out of being liable for any issues. The sunlight areas typically dont cause gaps rather the planks expand and peak up at the butt joints. Have you tried using a heat gun to pull up a plank to check the trowel size was correct as well as many installers will use a smaller notch to make the glue go further. Is their a crawl space under or a full basement ? These are all things an inspector will look for to determine if it's an installation related issue or a manufacture issue which could get your floor replaced at their expense.
Hey Mitch, Glad to see you back with more of this content. Been Subscribed since the beginning. Thanks for the truth, never heard back from either of the two glue downs we've done in the past. so far so good.
Hi Mark! Glad to be back and have more stuff in the pipeline! Good to hear you haven't had the service issues, I have spoken with some other installers and sales people at this point as well as cruised through reddit and UA-cam comments and there is certainly no shortage of people starting to have this issue!
It’s important that the flooring material acclimates in the room it being installed for a minimum of 5 days before installation. Also, spread the boxes out around the room. Don’t leave them stacked while acclimating. I have probably installed over a million square feet of this stuff and haven’t had any issues
As a flooring installer id say click can be a good option but if its a cheaper variety of it you need the floor as leval as humanly possible and ive come to the conclusion that most of the time should be self levaled or else the lock systems will break where it isnt leval and will be much worse than having gaps like in glue down...also repairs on glue down with scratches etc is a breeze ...was ur floor acclimated before installed?(actually curious about if that could of caused it) To fix your glue down id get a heat gun and heat it up itll expand to fill in the gap and than use some tape to hold it in place while it cools so it stretches and doesnt shrink....cant promise thatll work but it comes to mind as potential solution ...end of the day im on the fence prose and cons to both ...i think if i where to do my house in either or id go glue down for how damm easy it is to fix...id do click only if my budget was big enouph to get self leval and a good quality floor.
I used glue down vinyl and a few years later there are huge 1/8-3/16" and even some 1/4" gaps all over the floor! Absolutely hate it, the dirt getting stuck inside is disgusting, and being able to see the subfloor through the floor is such an obvious eyesore... the cost and suffering involved in trying to remove all the planks and all the glue, especially in the bathroom to have to pull the cast iron tub and toilet to get access is the reason it's not getting fixed. So mad about this product obviously being defective and manufactures lies about how it was going to hold up and be stable.... just criminal!
Glue down LVP is one of the easiest floor to repair. You just heat it and peel it up and stick a new one right back down. Of course it would be a couple hours to rearrange all the rows but it's not the end the of the world and its completely DIY
Wish I had seen your video before having installed glue down vinyl flooring!!! Ours is started to split and it has been only a couple of months. Sunlight is not much of an issue as we put blankets to block out this summers heat. After viewing your informative video I have been forced to accept my flooring will have gaps and that is just the new look of my floors.
Okay, I don't know anything about this, so this may be a stupid question, but why not cut an eighth of an inch strip off of a left over plank and glue it in the gap to fill it in?
25 years ago I layed down laminate wood flooring at my mothers house. All types of laminate back then was the glue type, where glue was applied to the tongue of the planks not one of those planks have released or shifted the two areas of the house where you suggest that sunlight has created your problem does not exists at my mothers house. Five years ago I replaced here wall to wall carpet upstairs with click type laminate and within a year i started to see some gapping appear and got worse over the next year, this was in the hallway near the bathroom and other areas in the bedroom. I eventailly sucked out the dirt inside the gaps put glue into the tongue and groove of the planks and kicked planks back into place. I have not seen the gaps return, but new ones have showed up. I think mostly its a expansion contration problem.
Can you talk about the type of flooring you used? I'm wondering if this happens with the newer SPC vinyl, but it would also be good to know how thick the layers are for your floor.
yes please specify the type and thickness you've used for your floor. the sales person that showed us the glued vinyl showed us various thickness and we liked the thicker one. plus it's easy to replace one plank.
I have some gaps in my vinyl floor. I used black silicone to fill them. Looks okay and I'm hoping it will flex with the floor and not deteriorate too much over time
Thank you for your video. Your reason for using that product is EXACTLY the same reason I went for that product in my first home. But yes, the lifting, the heat, the gaps…is it really worth it!?! 🤔 the jury is out on that one lol
Most Helpful to me so far, THANKS! I do wish you could have told what types exactly though, I know the glue down type is flexible but also I have seen ( quite a while ago actually) what I thought was click down and also no glue with a pretty healthy backing, a vinyl of course bu also it looked like a felt type material in the center. Seemed to have a decent weight to it but not super heavy and also seemed real durable. almost like zip locking sandwich type bags really LOL. The floors we would be covering are old wood floors in pretty bad shape visually. Feels like I am going broke trying to fix the house also so I am looking for the best resolution to flooring cost wise but still , I don't want to be repairing anything anytime soon. If in a few years I would be repairing damaged planks I don't think i'd like scraping glue up - I doubt my language woudl pass on you tube if you know what i mean. YIKES
This video could not have come at a better time! Very good and honest review! We will be going click lvp for our entire house! The lvp looks very nice and is so durable. As for the crack at least you know it is something you did and tile I’m guessing would have had the same result. Awesome video!
I'm glad to here it helped you make a good decision, that's what it is all about!!! I think in the future the marketplace will slowly push laminate and glue down out vs click LVP and engineered hardwoods. Thanks for taking the time to comment!
Here in Ohio we are push the glue down. So many problems with the click. Coming apart on short ends. Cupping anywhere the sun hits it. Honestly, if it’s not 3/8” thick or more, we don’t want to lay it. We do acclimate our glue down jobs. Thanks for the video.
I am having issues with an install I just did at a house, and have had other installation site issues. All new subfloor, and the dining room keeps buckling or gapping. Its the SUN. Do not install these floors anywhere that gets direct sun or has extreme temperature variations. On the bright side, those planks are glued down with pressure sensitive adhesive. You can peel up the plank carefully, close the gap and push it back down without reglueing*. Thankyou for posting this.
We’re in a new build…SW Ohio. Our builder put in LVL’s and AdvanTech subfloors & finished floors are LVP click & lock. We have squeaky floors all over…even in a carpeted area. We were assured there would be no squeaks with the subfloor’s. The only issues with the LVP is small pieces not vacuumed underneath or screw head popping up. So at our 1 yr mark all this will have to get resolved. The maintenance on these vinyl planks is easy to clean and keep clean. We had Pergo Timbercraft Laminate in a different house & it had a more upper end expensive look to it…easy maintenance as well. I have friends with hardwood and the floors are scratched horribly from pets & kids. So guess there’s always a pay off from our choices.
Hi Jaclyn I agree there are pros and cons to all options. I assume your subfloors were glued and screwed? Do you happen to know exactly what is causing the squeaks, or whether it is coming from the joists of the LVP itself? Do you know what type of bridging is used between your floor joists/ is your basement finished? Best regards, Mitch.
Most squeaky floors are the nails that missed or didn't hold that rub against the floor joists. I hate squeaking floors, I wouldn't be happy after spending the money on what seems to be some very good materials...
I tried to do a walk through video of a house with LTV flooring. When listening to each screen play back. It sound like a ghost. I was like is the house haunted. Then I shot the room video without moving my feet when I panned the room with the camera. The ghost sound was gone. Never realized the floor makes so much noise when walking across it.
Hey buddy, did you use high temperature glue under the planks? I mentioned your issues to a flooring inspector today as my current floating floor has issues and he says to use high temperature glue to avoid this happening...?
maybe if you taped off all around the larger gaps and filled them with shellac, which has a natural tinted reddish honey color, that would fill the gaps and the shellac as a filler would not shrink...this would not work on all color floors but it would work on some brown tones, just apply it to the gap with a small artist's brush...just an idea I had that may work for some
I have that exact vinyl plank on my floor and same issues . It has been 7 years since I had it installed and it is shrinking and lifting throughout my home . 2 things I noted : 1) the guy that installed my floor never rolled it , I believe this has had an impact on my problems with this floor . 2) Some of the plank ends on my floor are lifting & curve upwards slightly ,I was using the beater bar on my dyson and I believe this has excerbated the issue .I'm going to roll the floor when the weather warms up ( I'm in Northern Alberta) and see if that makes a difference , I now vacuum with the beater bar off ...I have armstrong lvp in my bedrooms , it also shifted and gapped like this in a much shorter amount of time . I had the flooring company redo the bedroom floors with the same planks and the installer rolled the floor . Hasn't moved in 5 years and looks pristine ....
Thank you for such a thorough breakdown. My wife and I have been contemplating our new floor product and are unsure about LVP even with the salesman talking it up
Great video. We just started getting edge gaps on pergo floor. It’s near a window with sunlight. Wow glad we did interlock but the gaps are concerning.
I've glued down click-lock Cali rigid core vinyl flooring and zero issues. The fear of gaps is why I went with click over loose lay and the fear of hollow-sounding foot noise made me use glue -- so I'm good, provided I don't drop a dumbbell on it and crack it
After watching this I have a few questions: 1) Did the subfloor absorb some of the glue so It's not adhering as well as it should? 2) Is that a body of water outside? If it is, couldn't excess humidity be an issue?
It would be interesting to accurately measure the length, width, and thickness of the planks with gaps vs planks without gaps, at a standard temperature obviously. Have the dimensions changed? Is it caused by: 1. Creep, getting thicker and shorter under compression and remaining thicker and shorter when temperature drops. 2. Plastic degradation under sunlight or higher temperatures, or from chemicals in the adhesive or cleaners. 3. Plasticizer migration from the flooring to the adhesive, making the adhesive more flexible and the flooring less flexible, and possibly shrinking. Combination of the above. This assumes it was installed tight, with no gaps along the perimeter like would normally be done with other flooring types.
This is just the video I needed to see bc I was just about t to purchase glue down for my basement. I had these kind on concerns but of coarse every floor sales person say it all good. Thanks so much. I now have my answer for basement floor 👍👌
Glad the video was helpful Rick. It honestly just seems like this product hasn't been around long enough for everyone to really know how it will continue to hold up. It sort of reminds me of poly-b plumbing that was the plastic plumbing of the 80's before pex until 15 years later when people found it springing leaks.
But, how much light does your basement get?? Was it the UV light that split his gaps? Was it the type of floor or the glue he used itself?? Did the planks move or shrink?? I do imagine this guy used a quality floor, not some 2nd class "Job Lot" floor...
I do all kinds of flooring. The glue down lasts 100 % better. High temp glue… is the answer... It handles pets and messy kids… Buy the good stuff Cheap click is a nightmare… the cluck also breaks as you put it down...
Awesome turnout! Also very true about the crumbs getting stuck in the cracks. Lots of effort to clean them out! 👏🏼 I agree, although some areas aren’t so bad, the click looks so much more “finished” without the gaps.
I'm guessing your home lumber was not dry enough and has caused the issues...I would grind up a board and mix with glue to fill the cracks...with the basement board you just cut out the damaged piece and cut the lip off and glue a piece down...very simple to fix.
Laminate is superior to vinyl plank...and eng wod is superior to laminate and vinyl plank. There are huge downfalls to glue down and click vinyl planks. Glue down vinyl planks will gap seasonally and continue to do so over time and click vinyl planks will fail at the click systems themselves. You MUST have a flatter than flat floor for click vinyl planks, which is extremely difficult to do, to avoid deflection breaking your click. If your wood framing is 16" coc you "may" have a chance it doesnt fail, but most new homes are 19.2" coc or more, and your clicks WILL break from deflection. Laminate can last up to 5-10 years, vinyl planks can last 3-10 years....but wood floors can last up to 50 years. Vinyl is plastic. Dont buy plastic floors....do your best to put wood floors in your homes if you want them to last.
Man, thaaanks❤🎉 I am in Romania and here, due to the wonderful 4 seasons and 3 of them hummid 😂😂😂 everyone is like "use wood!" or " justbuse the click system". But as you said when you just got this one: I need smth that is dog proof and kid proof 😂 No one could tell me how the plasruc holds cause they don't have it 😂😂😂😂 So thqnk you so so much! 🎉🎉🎉
Do you think shrinkage will happen with the new vinyl peel and stick or only the glue down ones? We have done lvl click and lock and they don’t scratch but have had problems of breakage corners, lifting, etc. had hardwood before that and scratched like crazy. Like idea of peel and stick bc if one goes bad can pull up and replace if needed where as vinyl click is harder to do that
I wonder if there is something to what you say about the ones in the front entrance getting a lot of water and snow brought in on it. It'd be interesting to know if there was a measurable moisture content difference between the planks that have shrank a lot vs. not really at all.
Hmmm, on that note, the kitchen does take quite a bit of water and it has gapped the worse, and the ensuite bath arguably gets the most and it has gapped more than the foyer. The ensuite bath does have a big south and west facing window which normally has the blinds open.
We had glue down lvp installed in our new build. We moved in Dec '22 and there were gaps when we moved in. New home warranty is forcing the builder to fix it but they've said the builder can 'grout' it. Should we refuse this method of fix? Should we get something in writing from the manufacturer that this is an acceptable fix?
Materials of all kinds expand and contract in response to either heat or moisture or both.. you're not going to stop that, you have to accommodate it. My guess is that this vinyl was not acclimated properly, either at the distributor or in the house before it was installed, or it was just plain defective which unfortunately we have encountered with cheaper, made-in-China products. We've also seen end-curling with the Chinese snap-together product. It would have been nice if you had given the brand name, pattern, etc. of the product so it could be researched. Quality manufacturers and distributors will replace defective product at no cost within their warranty period.
Haha replace product.... will they pay to pull the toilets and cast iron tubs and scrape all the glue from the subfloor and the cost of labor to redo it all after it's compeltely ruined with gaps a few years after installation? I think not.... waranty on replacing "the product" only is a joke. The people who sell this stuff should be in jail!!
Thnx so much for sharing ur experience... I'm considering plank installation for my home... I live in the Caribbean and thought the glue down wud hv been a good choice but hving seen ur vid i think the click system wud be the better choice for my home ... peace and prosperity 🙏🏿
I have installed click system upstairs and its coming apart everywhere! I payed for decent product as well about 4-5$ a square foot. I think I would go with something nailed in like wood or laminate flooring
Maybe the problem was related to the time you gave to the floor to settle before begin with the installation. For what I know it suppose to be inside the place where floor will be installed for 2 days then you can install it.
You are correct. This floor was loaded well in advance. At the time this home was built we were in the process of building 20+ other homes in a nearby subdivision, and it was a trusted flooring supplier / installer who was doing the work, so we had a very solid routine for job prep. Normally we were dealing with hardwood at the time, but the acclimatization principles are very similar. At this point I honestly do believe that the sunlight is shrinking the planks. I will likely try to run some test this summer between how the thin glue down product and the thicker click product react when left out in the direct sun for an extended period of time.
Perhaps it's dependent on the time of the year that it's initially installed? If in winter when the boards are cold and at their smallest would over come when they expand in the summer? I've installed around 250m2 in Thailand (hot and humid) and have very little shrinkage
Question! Was this your standard flexible glue down LVP or a click-in lock LVP that was glued down? We are doing a warranty claim on our click-in lock floating LVP we had installed two years ago for this exact issue, though we did not glue it down. We are having a different product installed that will also be click-in lock, but we were considering glueing it down as well, as Coretec says it can be glued down and we honestly hated the feeling of the floating floor. Ultimately, I'm wondering whether you are able to use a suction tool and mallet to tap these planks back into place (if they are click-in lock) despite the glue? I know logically the glue should make it tougher to tap them back into place, but I figure if they came apart in the first place, that would possibly imply the glue should be weakened and likely still easier to tap back in place. Thanks so much for the feedback, and I hope you had this fixed or replaced eventually!
I would not choose laminate again for one of my projects. We have used it on builds in the past, and have seen it in many rental apartment applications and it just doesn't hold up. Moisture causes swelling and bubbling of the material and I've had issues with chipping at the edges. It is budget friendly but not for the long term in my own opinion.
@@BuildLessons I HAVE LAMINATE FLOORING AND I WANT TO REPLACE IT WITH VINYL FLOORING IN MY LIVING AREA ONLY BUT I DON’T KNOW WHAT IS THE DIFFERENCE BETWEEN THE MATTE AND SATIN FINISH VINYL FLOORING. Please help
@@shad6519 Hi there, which product line are you choosing from (brand and line)? Matte vs Satin should only be in reference to the level of shine/ reflectiveness of the clear wear layer, and won't have any bearing on performance. I prefer a matte finish myself, I think it looks less fake. Have you seen the product you are ordering in person / do you have a preference?
@@tyramahmood8904 Many factors involved in that answer so unfortunately I cannot give you a solid answer, contributing factors will include how large your space is, how much glazing you have (windows) which are a big source of heat loss in the winter, how well insulated your structure is, and how much are movement you have.
That kind of material does shrink and expand with temperature.. there are better glues than that one. Was there something wrong with subfloor? Tested for moisture? It could be many things or a combination of things. Sucks to have that happen. But you should know if it's the kind of glue I think it is, it could be fixed using majority of the same planks. But you would have to buy some new ones. Plus most importantly get an install that will take their time and troubleshoot. Best of luck!
Curious if it has something to do with the manufacture? I did my first house and it did great no gapping even with tons of sunlight. Same brand used in workplace, no gapping after many years. New house I did it with different brand, almost one year in and there is gapping already.
Could that issue not be because you are glueing the planks to wood floors? Would it not be that the wood underneath itself is causing the issue? As I’d imagine if you had a concrete base floor that’s been levelled correctly may not have this issue?
What is the actual flooring that is shown here. Just looking for something to replace a flooded floor in a condo. Someone recommended a click product called Patcraft by Shaw. Looks very similar but I can't find much info on the Patcraft.
This is a from a company called Mannington. This is their Adura Dockside collection, Sand color. They make the same color in different thickness. The click product is thicker!
Looks like someone used Pressure Sensitive Adhesive instead of High Temperature Adhesive. Any room that's exposed to direct sunlight should be glued down with High Temperature Adhesive.
Great point. I'm keeping your comment in my notes. Also, I've always been told that the planks need to be acclimated. Another person stated that the planks should be installed during the right time of the year. Not sure if it's during cold or hot weather
Still happens with high temp glue don’t be mistaken it will bond better but it will still shrink (happens all the time around high heat uv areas like kitchen doors. The glue will only keep its integrity to a certain temp. The sun is powerful specially when enhanced by planes of glass. Luxury vinyl tiles are just problematic go for a stone floor or engineered wood floor. Its all a gimmick this plastic crap just away to make a cheap product with a good mark up for retail! It is not sustainable its a big impact on the planet
Based on your photos there are not nearly enough fasteners on your underlayment @ 5:18... I can't say that's the cause... but that's at least 1 aspect of installation error.
I am in a 140 year old house. Placed 1/2 plywood over the old hardwood floor and now the floor is solid but there a couple of areas where the floor is slightly uneven. To be expected in a house that old. We have encountered the click floor linkage breaks over time. Especially where the floor is mildly uneven. Lesson learned. Question is, will glue down better follow the contours of the floor? Has anyone had a similar experience?
What was the manufacturers response to your problem. Iam just about to have some loose lay planks installed on a concrete basement floor,with glue this makes me wonder, not a lot of sunlight there. thanks
What’s the bene don the click system? Can it be dropped over an 1 inch tongue and groove as subfloor? No mahogany no OSB. Does it need a mat? Do all click systems need a mat?
Some of these peel and stick tile used to come with a lifetime warranty but no one will honor the warranty. Mine started to buckle and not stick to the floor in addition to the spacing. I've been trying to replace it with new pieces but it's doing the same thing. I feel like this is a total waste of money.
Does it need to be rolled when installed? I saw it with preglued planks before. Says to use a roller over it to press it down properly. The floor still pulled apart in the sunny areas and then returned to normal when the shade came.
This was super super helpful. Thank you thank you! I was leaning towards glue down. I am in Arizona and intense UV sun constantly comes through the windows. So thumbs down to glue down. The only issue is that as a DIY guy my subfloor is not going to be perfectly flat. Maybe I can use self leveling cement or something? Oh did I say thank you a million times!
We did lvp glue down on cork underlayment on top of concrete. We recently had some water leak from the upstairs unit. We sucked up at the water that was squeezing out between the cracks but it's still treating 30% moisture in some areas after a week. Any suggestions or tips to dry it out completely. I've heard that eventually the concrete will absorb the moisture,but for how long?
Also can fill the crack in tha laminate click... Unika sell a filler... same one used for kitchen work top that goes off hard... wont be invisible but better than it is now... lot less noticeable.
use a high temprature adheisive that tends to stop shrinkage .and if you can get the wax for fixing wood or coloured mastic the same colour then wipe of with a cleaning wipe just to leave it in the joints where its shrunk . i hope that helps people
Correct it was pressure sensitive adhesive. Do you think the adhesive your mentioning would stop the material shrinkage from happening? I've never seen the adhesive you are talking about and I have some good friends who install floors full time and they are only using the pressure sensitive adhesive. Do lay flooring yourself, or have you had much experience with this type of adhesive? Is there a brand you would recommend or that you are familiar with? Thanks for the inputs.
@Build Lessons yes I've been in the trade for 40 years in the UK.we have the same issues with planks shrinking,usually in areas of direct sunlight or subject to heat.in those areas we always use a high temperature adhesive and pressure sensitive elsewhere.also important to acclimatise planks for a least 24 hours before install.if you have underfloor heating,it's important to turn it off at least 24hours before and 24 hours after install.i would be very surprised if contractors from your country don't do similar.this method will be the best way to stop shrinkage.
Ardex glue is my favourite at the moment. They do a pressure sensitive and a ht one. 👍🏼 I’m also a floor layer in the uk. Just on my daughter’s account 😂
Happens whether you use high temp adhesive or pressure sensitive. Your LVP is an extruded product and the cheaper products shrink more. Doesnt matter how long you acclimate.
19 “There was a certain rich man who was clothed in purple and fine linen and [a]fared sumptuously every day. 20 But there was a certain beggar named Lazarus, full of sores, who was laid at his gate, 21 desiring to be fed with [b]the crumbs which fell from the rich man’s table. Moreover the dogs came and licked his sores. 22 So it was that the beggar died, and was carried by the angels to Abraham’s bosom. The rich man also died and was buried. 23 And being in torments in Hades, he lifted up his eyes and saw Abraham afar off, and Lazarus in his bosom. 24 “Then he cried and said, ‘Father Abraham, have mercy on me, and send Lazarus that he may dip the tip of his finger in water and cool my tongue; for I am tormented in this flame.’ 25 But Abraham said, ‘Son, remember that in your lifetime you received your good things, and likewise Lazarus evil things; but now he is comforted and you are tormented. 26 And besides all this, between us and you there is a great gulf fixed, so that those who want to pass from here to you cannot, nor can those from there pass to us.’ 27 “Then he said, ‘I beg you therefore, father, that you would send him to my father’s house, 28 for I have five brothers, that he may testify to them, lest they also come to this place of torment.’ 29 Abraham said to him, ‘They have Moses and the prophets; let them hear them.’ 30 And he said, ‘No, father Abraham; but if one goes to them from the dead, they will repent.’ 31 But he said to him, ‘If they do not hear Moses and the prophets, neither will they be persuaded though one rise from the dead.’ ” Luke 16:19-31 10 Jesus answered and said to him, “Are you the teacher of Israel, and do not know these things? 11 Most assuredly, I say to you, We speak what We know and testify what We have seen, and you do not receive Our witness. 12 If I have told you earthly things and you do not believe, how will you believe if I tell you heavenly things? 13 No one has ascended to heaven but He who came down from heaven, that is, the Son of Man who is in heaven. 14 And as Moses lifted up the serpent in the wilderness, even so must the Son of Man be lifted up, 15 that whoever believes in Him should not perish but have eternal life. 16 For God so loved the world that He gave His only begotten Son, that whoever believes in Him should not perish but have everlasting life. 17 For God did not send His Son into the world to condemn the world, but that the world through Him might be saved.18 “He who believes in Him is not condemned; but he who does not believe is condemned already, because he has not believed in the name of the only begotten Son of God (YHVH, El Shaddai, Adonai, God of Jacob, Isaac, and Abraham). John 3:10-18
We are seeing a substance coming up through the crakes in our laminate flooring that we have in our basement. It's a brownish, yellow substance that is crumbly. Could that be the adhesive breaking down or a type of mold? Any thoughts are appreciated.
Subfloor will ALWAYS shift regardless the number of staples. I feel the glue down application would be a better fit for slabs. The click or floating floor is better for subfloor. Speaking from experience and installation history. Great video and wishing you all the luck moving forward.
a 4ft vinyl plank shrinking more than a 16th of an inch is probably not very well formulated. Rubber t-cap is worse, but a good example. We should measure the planks :)
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What brand? Tarkett???
You had a bad story with that vinyl. Since it is a PVC/plastic and the glue is never curing, with potential health hazard, I would say that is a big NO-NO.
You're honesty is what makes this truly valuable, so THANK YOU!!! You rarely hear of a man that bought a bad horse, so this is refreshing and will influence my upcoming decisions.
I can understand your frustration. We sell a lot of 5MM "looselay" that we glue down residentially and commercially and have not had issues. Most are surprised when we recommend. With underlayment - the 2.5-3 MM will work in residential as well. Should not be installed Looselay though- needs to be glued down. Lots of factors involved. #1 - the adhesive used. They range from $83/ 4 gallon to $150/ 4 gallon pail- dealer cost. Guess which will perform better and hold up to sunlight? Mapei 399 is a newer adhesive designed just for gapping- really locks in place. Also, the material has a lot to do with it. Some manufacturers include a spec for dimensional stability - like .002"-.004" max- I would purchase those products. Of course, they cost more- probably not "middle of the road". Last, the locking products- there are only a few with a good name- stick to those. Other mfg's will not stand behind if you have problems- I've heard from several owners of retail flooring businesses. Coreloc has a good name, and there are some others, but fix your subfloors first(level) and you will be much happier.
Did you mean COREtec (not Coreloc? Also, do you have some other reputable names? How do you find out which manufacturers will stand behind their product? Thanks for your initial comment….its very informative!
I think he also didn't take in account the affect of the expansion and retraction of his subfloor as well that might contributed more to the gaping in mu opinion, but still I feel like the product he used definitely temperture sensitive
I'm doing my bedroom in vinyl plank this weekend and have been going back and forth on glue down vs click for looks and I appreciate videos like this
What did you decide?
Ive installed this lvp in two rental homes. On the first home i used Mohawk and the glue they recommend. Its been installed now about 10 years and looks great with no gapping. On the second rental i used a cheap Chinese brand and there is huge gaps of about 1/4 inch in the front rooms. What i realized is where i have the gaps is where i put the least amount of adhesive because my trowel had wore down scraping on the concrete floor. So even though i used cheap products including the glue it came down to not having enough adhesive.
Flooring installer here with a few things to look into. First did you make sure the installers used the manufactures recommended adhesive and acclimated the materials according to manufactures recommendations? If so then id have the floor inspected by an independent inspector or contact the manufacture for a warranty claim. They will then likely send an inspector out to verify all installation procedures were followed as that is typically their way out of being liable for any issues. The sunlight areas typically dont cause gaps rather the planks expand and peak up at the butt joints. Have you tried using a heat gun to pull up a plank to check the trowel size was correct as well as many installers will use a smaller notch to make the glue go further. Is their a crawl space under or a full basement ? These are all things an inspector will look for to determine if it's an installation related issue or a manufacture issue which could get your floor replaced at their expense.
Dude I love how you keep updating cus at first it was all good but time always tells thank you so much
Hey Mitch, Glad to see you back with more of this content. Been Subscribed since the beginning. Thanks for the truth, never heard back from either of the two glue downs we've done in the past. so far so good.
Hi Mark! Glad to be back and have more stuff in the pipeline! Good to hear you haven't had the service issues, I have spoken with some other installers and sales people at this point as well as cruised through reddit and UA-cam comments and there is certainly no shortage of people starting to have this issue!
It’s important that the flooring material acclimates in the room it being installed for a minimum of 5 days before installation. Also, spread the boxes out around the room. Don’t leave them stacked while acclimating. I have probably installed over a million square feet of this stuff and haven’t had any issues
Does LVP glue down need to assimilate? I’ve heard it does not but I guess it depends on other variables too
As a flooring installer id say click can be a good option but if its a cheaper variety of it you need the floor as leval as humanly possible and ive come to the conclusion that most of the time should be self levaled or else the lock systems will break where it isnt leval and will be much worse than having gaps like in glue down...also repairs on glue down with scratches etc is a breeze ...was ur floor acclimated before installed?(actually curious about if that could of caused it) To fix your glue down id get a heat gun and heat it up itll expand to fill in the gap and than use some tape to hold it in place while it cools so it stretches and doesnt shrink....cant promise thatll work but it comes to mind as potential solution ...end of the day im on the fence prose and cons to both ...i think if i where to do my house in either or id go glue down for how damm easy it is to fix...id do click only if my budget was big enouph to get self leval and a good quality floor.
Glad to see you back making videos again man!
Thanks Matt, glad to be back, really excited to get back into the content creation rhythm!!!
I used glue down vinyl and a few years later there are huge 1/8-3/16" and even some 1/4" gaps all over the floor! Absolutely hate it, the dirt getting stuck inside is disgusting, and being able to see the subfloor through the floor is such an obvious eyesore... the cost and suffering involved in trying to remove all the planks and all the glue, especially in the bathroom to have to pull the cast iron tub and toilet to get access is the reason it's not getting fixed. So mad about this product obviously being defective and manufactures lies about how it was going to hold up and be stable.... just criminal!
Glue down LVP is one of the easiest floor to repair.
You just heat it and peel it up and stick a new one right back down.
Of course it would be a couple hours to rearrange all the rows but it's not the end the of the world and its completely DIY
Wish I had seen your video before having installed glue down vinyl flooring!!! Ours is started to split and it has been only a couple of months. Sunlight is not much of an issue as we put blankets to block out this summers heat. After viewing your informative video I have been forced to accept my flooring will have gaps and that is just the new look of my floors.
Okay, I don't know anything about this, so this may be a stupid question, but why not cut an eighth of an inch strip off of a left over plank and glue it in the gap to fill it in?
25 years ago I layed down laminate wood flooring at my mothers house. All types of laminate back then was the glue type, where glue was applied to the tongue of the planks not one of those planks have released or shifted the two areas of the house where you suggest that sunlight has created your problem does not exists at my mothers house. Five years ago I replaced here wall to wall carpet upstairs with click type laminate and within a year i started to see some gapping appear and got worse over the next year, this was in the hallway near the bathroom and other areas in the bedroom. I eventailly sucked out the dirt inside the gaps put glue into the tongue and groove of the planks and kicked planks back into place. I have not seen the gaps return, but new ones have showed up. I think mostly its a expansion contration problem.
What brand did you use? Your other video where you share a link, it does not work. Please share the brand.
Can you talk about the type of flooring you used? I'm wondering if this happens with the newer SPC vinyl, but it would also be good to know how thick the layers are for your floor.
yes please specify the type and thickness you've used for your floor. the sales person that showed us the glued vinyl showed us various thickness and we liked the thicker one. plus it's easy to replace one plank.
Just convinced me to use click planks.
I have some gaps in my vinyl floor. I used black silicone to fill them. Looks okay and I'm hoping it will flex with the floor and not deteriorate too much over time
omg thank you for sharing this!!! Trying to decide what kind of flooring update we are going to do.
Thank you for your video. Your reason for using that product is EXACTLY the same reason I went for that product in my first home. But yes, the lifting, the heat, the gaps…is it really worth it!?! 🤔 the jury is out on that one lol
Most Helpful to me so far, THANKS! I do wish you could have told what types exactly though, I know the glue down type is flexible but also I have seen ( quite a while ago actually) what I thought was click down and also no glue with a pretty healthy backing, a vinyl of course bu also it looked like a felt type material in the center. Seemed to have a decent weight to it but not super heavy and also seemed real durable. almost like zip locking sandwich type bags really LOL. The floors we would be covering are old wood floors in pretty bad shape visually. Feels like I am going broke trying to fix the house also so I am looking for the best resolution to flooring cost wise but still , I don't want to be repairing anything anytime soon. If in a few years I would be repairing damaged planks I don't think i'd like scraping glue up - I doubt my language woudl pass on you tube if you know what i mean. YIKES
This video could not have come at a better time! Very good and honest review! We will be going click lvp for our entire house! The lvp looks very nice and is so durable. As for the crack at least you know it is something you did and tile I’m guessing would have had the same result. Awesome video!
I'm glad to here it helped you make a good decision, that's what it is all about!!! I think in the future the marketplace will slowly push laminate and glue down out vs click LVP and engineered hardwoods. Thanks for taking the time to comment!
Here in Ohio we are push the glue down. So many problems with the click. Coming apart on short ends. Cupping anywhere the sun hits it. Honestly, if it’s not 3/8” thick or more, we don’t want to lay it. We do acclimate our glue down jobs. Thanks for the video.
I am having issues with an install I just did at a house, and have had other installation site issues. All new subfloor, and the dining room keeps buckling or gapping. Its the SUN. Do not install these floors anywhere that gets direct sun or has extreme temperature variations. On the bright side, those planks are glued down with pressure sensitive adhesive. You can peel up the plank carefully, close the gap and push it back down without reglueing*. Thankyou for posting this.
Awesome!!! Thanks for the video.
We’re in a new build…SW Ohio. Our builder put in LVL’s and AdvanTech subfloors & finished floors are LVP click & lock. We have squeaky floors all over…even in a carpeted area. We were assured there would be no squeaks with the subfloor’s. The only issues with the LVP is small pieces not vacuumed underneath or screw head popping up. So at our 1 yr mark all this will have to get resolved.
The maintenance on these vinyl planks is easy to clean and keep clean. We had Pergo Timbercraft Laminate in a different house & it had a more upper end expensive look to it…easy maintenance as well. I have friends with hardwood and the floors are scratched horribly from pets & kids. So guess there’s always a pay off from our choices.
Hi Jaclyn I agree there are pros and cons to all options. I assume your subfloors were glued and screwed? Do you happen to know exactly what is causing the squeaks, or whether it is coming from the joists of the LVP itself? Do you know what type of bridging is used between your floor joists/ is your basement finished? Best regards, Mitch.
Most squeaky floors are the nails that missed or didn't hold that rub against the floor joists. I hate squeaking floors, I wouldn't be happy after spending the money on what seems to be some very good materials...
I tried to do a walk through video of a house with LTV flooring. When listening to each screen play back. It sound like a ghost. I was like is the house haunted. Then I shot the room video without moving my feet when I panned the room with the camera. The ghost sound was gone. Never realized the floor makes so much noise when walking across it.
I noticed you had a weight bench in your basement. Did you have any issue with dents using click-based lvp?
Hi, thanks for your updated. Was your plants 'clickable' planks?
Hey buddy, did you use high temperature glue under the planks? I mentioned your issues to a flooring inspector today as my current floating floor has issues and he says to use high temperature glue to avoid this happening...?
What do you use to clean/wash your floors?
maybe if you taped off all around the larger gaps and filled them with shellac, which has a natural tinted reddish honey color, that would fill the gaps and the shellac as a filler would not shrink...this would not work on all color floors but it would work on some brown tones, just apply it to the gap with a small artist's brush...just an idea I had that may work for some
I have that exact vinyl plank on my floor and same issues . It has been 7 years since I had it installed and it is shrinking and lifting throughout my home . 2 things I noted : 1) the guy that installed my floor never rolled it , I believe this has had an impact on my problems with this floor . 2) Some of the plank ends on my floor are lifting & curve upwards slightly ,I was using the beater bar on my dyson and I believe this has excerbated the issue .I'm going to roll the floor when the weather warms up ( I'm in Northern Alberta) and see if that makes a difference , I now vacuum with the beater bar off ...I have armstrong lvp in my bedrooms , it also shifted and gapped like this in a much shorter amount of time . I had the flooring company redo the bedroom floors with the same planks and the installer rolled the floor . Hasn't moved in 5 years and looks pristine ....
You generally never have problems in bedrooms. You don't have the sun beating down on your floor.
Did you keep any pieces to make slices and fill back in?
Thank you for such a thorough breakdown. My wife and I have been contemplating our new floor product and are unsure about LVP even with the salesman talking it up
Great video. We just started getting edge gaps on pergo floor. It’s near a window with sunlight. Wow glad we did interlock but the gaps are concerning.
When these planks are installed, what is the tolerance for these gaps (plank to plank joints)??
I've glued down click-lock Cali rigid core vinyl flooring and zero issues. The fear of gaps is why I went with click over loose lay and the fear of hollow-sounding foot noise made me use glue -- so I'm good, provided I don't drop a dumbbell on it and crack it
I wonder if its the subfloor that's causing the issue. I mostly hear about glue down in basements on cement
Is this covered under the product warranty? From your earlier video, I got the impression it was professionally installed. So, warranty?
After watching this I have a few questions: 1) Did the subfloor absorb some of the glue so It's not adhering as well as it should? 2) Is that a body of water outside? If it is, couldn't excess humidity be an issue?
When cleaning, are you using a steam mop? Excessive water always shrinks lvt on the headers 'ends of planks'
I think the new WPC and SPC do not have the contraction issues of earlier vinyl
This is why i like sheet vinyl. I've had every kind of plank/Snap and click they all separate at some point.
It would be interesting to accurately measure the length, width, and thickness of the planks with gaps vs planks without gaps, at a standard temperature obviously.
Have the dimensions changed?
Is it caused by:
1. Creep, getting thicker and shorter under compression and remaining thicker and shorter when temperature drops.
2. Plastic degradation under sunlight or higher temperatures, or from chemicals in the adhesive or cleaners.
3. Plasticizer migration from the flooring to the adhesive, making the adhesive more flexible and the flooring less flexible, and possibly shrinking.
Combination of the above.
This assumes it was installed tight, with no gaps along the perimeter like would normally be done with other flooring types.
This is just the video I needed to see bc I was just about t to purchase glue down for my basement. I had these kind on concerns but of coarse every floor sales person say it all good. Thanks so much. I now have my answer for basement floor 👍👌
Glad the video was helpful Rick. It honestly just seems like this product hasn't been around long enough for everyone to really know how it will continue to hold up. It sort of reminds me of poly-b plumbing that was the plastic plumbing of the 80's before pex until 15 years later when people found it springing leaks.
But, how much light does your basement get?? Was it the UV light that split his gaps? Was it the type of floor or the glue he used itself?? Did the planks move or shrink?? I do imagine this guy used a quality floor, not some 2nd class "Job Lot" floor...
I do all kinds of flooring. The glue down lasts 100 % better. High temp glue… is the answer... It handles pets and messy kids…
Buy the good stuff
Cheap click is a nightmare… the cluck also breaks as you put it down...
Awesome turnout! Also very true about the crumbs getting stuck in the cracks. Lots of effort to clean them out! 👏🏼 I agree, although some areas aren’t so bad, the click looks so much more “finished” without the gaps.
Agreed, and I wonder if the gaps allowing water in and potentially under then planks over time could start to unseat the planks / the glue.
Click floor can get cracks too. 😢
Some people complain that the floor is somewhat of a friction material. IOW, it wears out socks, etc. Thoughts?
Is the adhesive waterproof?
Had glued down vinyl flooring in my basement 10 years ago … with lots of humidity … it hasn’t budged.
I'm guessing your home lumber was not dry enough and has caused the issues...I would grind up a board and mix with glue to fill the cracks...with the basement board you just cut out the damaged piece and cut the lip off and glue a piece down...very simple to fix.
Laminate is superior to vinyl plank...and eng wod is superior to laminate and vinyl plank. There are huge downfalls to glue down and click vinyl planks. Glue down vinyl planks will gap seasonally and continue to do so over time and click vinyl planks will fail at the click systems themselves. You MUST have a flatter than flat floor for click vinyl planks, which is extremely difficult to do, to avoid deflection breaking your click. If your wood framing is 16" coc you "may" have a chance it doesnt fail, but most new homes are 19.2" coc or more, and your clicks WILL break from deflection.
Laminate can last up to 5-10 years, vinyl planks can last 3-10 years....but wood floors can last up to 50 years. Vinyl is plastic. Dont buy plastic floors....do your best to put wood floors in your homes if you want them to last.
Thanx man.... This really helps.... What's ur take on vinyl sheets you think they are better choice???... Coz as they are a continuous sheet ???
Man, thaaanks❤🎉 I am in Romania and here, due to the wonderful 4 seasons and 3 of them hummid 😂😂😂 everyone is like "use wood!" or " justbuse the click system". But as you said when you just got this one: I need smth that is dog proof and kid proof 😂 No one could tell me how the plasruc holds cause they don't have it 😂😂😂😂 So thqnk you so so much! 🎉🎉🎉
Is the flooring slippery for dogs??
Do you think shrinkage will happen with the new vinyl peel and stick or only the glue down ones? We have done lvl click and lock and they don’t scratch but have had problems of breakage corners, lifting, etc. had hardwood before that and scratched like crazy. Like idea of peel and stick bc if one goes bad can pull up and replace if needed where as vinyl click is harder to do that
I wonder if there is something to what you say about the ones in the front entrance getting a lot of water and snow brought in on it. It'd be interesting to know if there was a measurable moisture content difference between the planks that have shrank a lot vs. not really at all.
Hmmm, on that note, the kitchen does take quite a bit of water and it has gapped the worse, and the ensuite bath arguably gets the most and it has gapped more than the foyer. The ensuite bath does have a big south and west facing window which normally has the blinds open.
We had glue down lvp installed in our new build. We moved in Dec '22 and there were gaps when we moved in. New home warranty is forcing the builder to fix it but they've said the builder can 'grout' it. Should we refuse this method of fix? Should we get something in writing from the manufacturer that this is an acceptable fix?
Materials of all kinds expand and contract in response to either heat or moisture or both.. you're not going to stop that, you have to accommodate it. My guess is that this vinyl was not acclimated properly, either at the distributor or in the house before it was installed, or it was just plain defective which unfortunately we have encountered with cheaper, made-in-China products. We've also seen end-curling with the Chinese snap-together product. It would have been nice if you had given the brand name, pattern, etc. of the product so it could be researched. Quality manufacturers and distributors will replace defective product at no cost within their warranty period.
Haha replace product.... will they pay to pull the toilets and cast iron tubs and scrape all the glue from the subfloor and the cost of labor to redo it all after it's compeltely ruined with gaps a few years after installation? I think not.... waranty on replacing "the product" only is a joke. The people who sell this stuff should be in jail!!
Thnx so much for sharing ur experience... I'm considering plank installation for my home... I live in the Caribbean and thought the glue down wud hv been a good choice but hving seen ur vid i think the click system wud be the better choice for my home ... peace and prosperity 🙏🏿
I have installed click system upstairs and its coming apart everywhere! I payed for decent product as well about 4-5$ a square foot. I think I would go with something nailed in like wood or laminate flooring
Maybe the problem was related to the time you gave to the floor to settle before begin with the installation. For what I know it suppose to be inside the place where floor will be installed for 2 days then you can install it.
You are correct. This floor was loaded well in advance. At the time this home was built we were in the process of building 20+ other homes in a nearby subdivision, and it was a trusted flooring supplier / installer who was doing the work, so we had a very solid routine for job prep. Normally we were dealing with hardwood at the time, but the acclimatization principles are very similar. At this point I honestly do believe that the sunlight is shrinking the planks. I will likely try to run some test this summer between how the thin glue down product and the thicker click product react when left out in the direct sun for an extended period of time.
Is there any warranty that you can fall back on?
Perhaps it's dependent on the time of the year that it's initially installed? If in winter when the boards are cold and at their smallest would over come when they expand in the summer? I've installed around 250m2 in Thailand (hot and humid) and have very little shrinkage
High Temperature adhesive and good quality vinyl tiles - no problems
Question! Was this your standard flexible glue down LVP or a click-in lock LVP that was glued down? We are doing a warranty claim on our click-in lock floating LVP we had installed two years ago for this exact issue, though we did not glue it down. We are having a different product installed that will also be click-in lock, but we were considering glueing it down as well, as Coretec says it can be glued down and we honestly hated the feeling of the floating floor. Ultimately, I'm wondering whether you are able to use a suction tool and mallet to tap these planks back into place (if they are click-in lock) despite the glue? I know logically the glue should make it tougher to tap them back into place, but I figure if they came apart in the first place, that would possibly imply the glue should be weakened and likely still easier to tap back in place. Thanks so much for the feedback, and I hope you had this fixed or replaced eventually!
What about Laminate flooring? Thanks 🙏
I would not choose laminate again for one of my projects. We have used it on builds in the past, and have seen it in many rental apartment applications and it just doesn't hold up. Moisture causes swelling and bubbling of the material and I've had issues with chipping at the edges. It is budget friendly but not for the long term in my own opinion.
@@BuildLessons thanks 🙏.
@@BuildLessons what is the better option, MATTE OR SATIN FINISH VINYL FLOORING IN YOUR OPINION. Thanks
@@BuildLessons I HAVE LAMINATE FLOORING AND I WANT TO REPLACE IT WITH VINYL FLOORING IN MY LIVING AREA ONLY BUT I DON’T KNOW WHAT IS THE DIFFERENCE BETWEEN THE MATTE AND SATIN FINISH VINYL FLOORING. Please help
@@shad6519 Hi there, which product line are you choosing from (brand and line)? Matte vs Satin should only be in reference to the level of shine/ reflectiveness of the clear wear layer, and won't have any bearing on performance. I prefer a matte finish myself, I think it looks less fake. Have you seen the product you are ordering in person / do you have a preference?
Dies LVT make the house cold or is it a good heat conduct and makes the hime feel warmer
It is warmer than a ceramic tile, colder than carpet, and about the same as hardwood!
@@BuildLessons I have no underfloor heating and open space like yourself, would you say a couple of radiators would keep the area warm ?
Thank you
@@tyramahmood8904 Many factors involved in that answer so unfortunately I cannot give you a solid answer, contributing factors will include how large your space is, how much glazing you have (windows) which are a big source of heat loss in the winter, how well insulated your structure is, and how much are movement you have.
What brand glue & lvp did u use? What thickness is your lvp?
Thanks
That kind of material does shrink and expand with temperature.. there are better glues than that one. Was there something wrong with subfloor? Tested for moisture? It could be many things or a combination of things. Sucks to have that happen. But you should know if it's the kind of glue I think it is, it could be fixed using majority of the same planks. But you would have to buy some new ones. Plus most importantly get an install that will take their time and troubleshoot. Best of luck!
Curious if it has something to do with the manufacture? I did my first house and it did great no gapping even with tons of sunlight. Same brand used in workplace, no gapping after many years. New house I did it with different brand, almost one year in and there is gapping already.
What brand worked best for you?
I’m having this exact issue with Karndean Van Gogh planks. Any idea if this is covered by warranty?
Thank you for this video.
Could that issue not be because you are glueing the planks to wood floors? Would it not be that the wood underneath itself is causing the issue? As I’d imagine if you had a concrete base floor that’s been levelled correctly may not have this issue?
What is the actual flooring that is shown here. Just looking for something to replace a flooded floor in a condo. Someone recommended a click product called Patcraft by Shaw. Looks very similar but I can't find much info on the Patcraft.
This is a from a company called Mannington. This is their Adura Dockside collection, Sand color. They make the same color in different thickness. The click product is thicker!
Was it the brand, the thickness, the glue, etc. What does the manufacturer of the vinyl and the glue say?
Was there any off gassing issue?
Looks like someone used Pressure Sensitive Adhesive instead of High Temperature Adhesive. Any room that's exposed to direct sunlight should be glued down with High Temperature Adhesive.
Great point. I'm keeping your comment in my notes. Also, I've always been told that the planks need to be acclimated. Another person stated that the planks should be installed during the right time of the year. Not sure if it's during cold or hot weather
Are these suitable for underfloor heating?
The shrinkage happening in planks itself. I would recommend not to use long planks but short one. It wont affecting as such.
Still happens with high temp glue don’t be mistaken it will bond better but it will still shrink (happens all the time around high heat uv areas like kitchen doors. The glue will only keep its integrity to a certain temp. The sun is powerful specially when enhanced by planes of glass. Luxury vinyl tiles are just problematic go for a stone floor or engineered wood floor. Its all a gimmick this plastic crap just away to make a cheap product with a good mark up for retail! It is not sustainable its a big impact on the planet
@@yevgeniyshawyer2767no it’s all down to adhesive selection they used the wrong adhesive end of story the installer is at fault
Based on your photos there are not nearly enough fasteners on your underlayment @ 5:18... I can't say that's the cause... but that's at least 1 aspect of installation error.
Glad to see before I buy. Im gonna go with porcelain. Just put silicone or color caulking in cracks. Tape edges 1st
I am in a 140 year old house. Placed 1/2 plywood over the old hardwood floor and now the floor is solid but there a couple of areas where the floor is slightly uneven. To be expected in a house that old. We have encountered the click floor linkage breaks over time. Especially where the floor is mildly uneven. Lesson learned. Question is, will glue down better follow the contours of the floor? Has anyone had a similar experience?
looks like you needed to acclimate the product in your house first, for about 4-5 years, then install it! :D
What was the manufacturers response to your problem. Iam just about to have some loose lay planks installed on a concrete basement floor,with glue
this makes me wonder, not a lot of sunlight there. thanks
What’s the bene don the click system? Can it be dropped over an 1 inch tongue and groove as subfloor? No mahogany no OSB. Does it need a mat? Do all click systems need a mat?
The Brand I mean
Some of these peel and stick tile used to come with a lifetime warranty but no one will honor the warranty. Mine started to buckle and not stick to the floor in addition to the spacing. I've been trying to replace it with new pieces but it's doing the same thing. I feel like this is a total waste of money.
Does it need to be rolled when installed? I saw it with preglued planks before. Says to use a roller over it to press it down properly. The floor still pulled apart in the sunny areas and then returned to normal when the shade came.
This was super super helpful. Thank you thank you! I was leaning towards glue down. I am in Arizona and intense UV sun constantly comes through the windows. So thumbs down to glue down. The only issue is that as a DIY guy my subfloor is not going to be perfectly flat. Maybe I can use self leveling cement or something? Oh did I say thank you a million times!
Man that vinyl looks like real wood.
We did lvp glue down on cork underlayment on top of concrete. We recently had some water leak from the upstairs unit. We sucked up at the water that was squeezing out between the cracks but it's still treating 30% moisture in some areas after a week. Any suggestions or tips to dry it out completely. I've heard that eventually the concrete will absorb the moisture,but for how long?
what about loose lay instead of glue down??
I have no heard any direct feedback from anyone who has loose lay installed but I do imagine the shrinkage issue would be the same.
Also can fill the crack in tha laminate click... Unika sell a filler... same one used for kitchen work top that goes off hard... wont be invisible but better than it is now... lot less noticeable.
use a high temprature adheisive that tends to stop shrinkage .and if you can get the wax for fixing wood or coloured mastic the same colour then wipe of with a cleaning wipe just to leave it in the joints where its shrunk . i hope that helps people
Looks like a pressure sensitive adhesive was used.should have used a high temperature wet set adhesive.
Correct it was pressure sensitive adhesive. Do you think the adhesive your mentioning would stop the material shrinkage from happening? I've never seen the adhesive you are talking about and I have some good friends who install floors full time and they are only using the pressure sensitive adhesive. Do lay flooring yourself, or have you had much experience with this type of adhesive? Is there a brand you would recommend or that you are familiar with? Thanks for the inputs.
@Build Lessons yes I've been in the trade for 40 years in the UK.we have the same issues with planks shrinking,usually in areas of direct sunlight or subject to heat.in those areas we always use a high temperature adhesive and pressure sensitive elsewhere.also important to acclimatise planks for a least 24 hours before install.if you have underfloor heating,it's important to turn it off at least 24hours before and 24 hours after install.i would be very surprised if contractors from your country don't do similar.this method will be the best way to stop shrinkage.
Ardex glue is my favourite at the moment. They do a pressure sensitive and a ht one. 👍🏼
I’m also a floor layer in the uk. Just on my daughter’s account 😂
@fretjam we've stopped using pressure sensitive to glue down planks at all. Only hard set now. Too many issues like this one.
I'm guessing you didn't use a stone polymer core??
You're thinking about gluing down a click-lock product like one of CoreTec's? It seems like that might be a better way to go...
Happens whether you use high temp adhesive or pressure sensitive. Your LVP is an extruded product and the cheaper products shrink more. Doesnt matter how long you acclimate.
19 “There was a certain rich man who was clothed in purple and fine linen and [a]fared sumptuously every day. 20 But there was a certain beggar named Lazarus, full of sores, who was laid at his gate, 21 desiring to be fed with [b]the crumbs which fell from the rich man’s table. Moreover the dogs came and licked his sores. 22 So it was that the beggar died, and was carried by the angels to Abraham’s bosom. The rich man also died and was buried. 23 And being in torments in Hades, he lifted up his eyes and saw Abraham afar off, and Lazarus in his bosom. 24 “Then he cried and said, ‘Father Abraham, have mercy on me, and send Lazarus that he may dip the tip of his finger in water and cool my tongue; for I am tormented in this flame.’ 25 But Abraham said, ‘Son, remember that in your lifetime you received your good things, and likewise Lazarus evil things; but now he is comforted and you are tormented. 26 And besides all this, between us and you there is a great gulf fixed, so that those who want to pass from here to you cannot, nor can those from there pass to us.’ 27 “Then he said, ‘I beg you therefore, father, that you would send him to my father’s house, 28 for I have five brothers, that he may testify to them, lest they also come to this place of torment.’ 29 Abraham said to him, ‘They have Moses and the prophets; let them hear them.’ 30 And he said, ‘No, father Abraham; but if one goes to them from the dead, they will repent.’ 31 But he said to him, ‘If they do not hear Moses and the prophets, neither will they be persuaded though one rise from the dead.’ ” Luke 16:19-31
10 Jesus answered and said to him, “Are you the teacher of Israel, and do not know these things? 11 Most assuredly, I say to you, We speak what We know and testify what We have seen, and you do not receive Our witness. 12 If I have told you earthly things and you do not believe, how will you believe if I tell you heavenly things? 13 No one has ascended to heaven but He who came down from heaven, that is, the Son of Man who is in heaven. 14 And as Moses lifted up the serpent in the wilderness, even so must the Son of Man be lifted up, 15 that whoever believes in Him should not perish but have eternal life. 16 For God so loved the world that He gave His only begotten Son, that whoever believes in Him should not perish but have everlasting life. 17 For God did not send His Son into the world to condemn the world, but that the world through Him might be saved.18 “He who believes in Him is not condemned; but he who does not believe is condemned already, because he has not believed in the name of the only begotten Son of God (YHVH, El Shaddai, Adonai, God of Jacob, Isaac, and Abraham). John 3:10-18
We are seeing a substance coming up through the crakes in our laminate flooring that we have in our basement. It's a brownish, yellow substance that is crumbly. Could that be the adhesive breaking down or a type of mold? Any thoughts are appreciated.
Subfloor will ALWAYS shift regardless the number of staples. I feel the glue down application would be a better fit for slabs. The click or floating floor is better for subfloor. Speaking from experience and installation history. Great video and wishing you all the luck moving forward.
a 4ft vinyl plank shrinking more than a 16th of an inch is probably not very well formulated. Rubber t-cap is worse, but a good example. We should measure the planks :)
I have engineered wood glued on slab. Does anybody know how to fix it?
Anyone know if gapping occurs in a bathroom where the temperature doesn't fluctuate much, no direct sunlight? Plan to use LVT GLUE downs.
LVP does indeed expand and contract causing this.
You should be working directly with the manufacturer of the product on this.
Their product is *defective* and you deserve answers and compensation.