Trad Climbing on Epinephrine - Pitch 9, my favorite pitch
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- Опубліковано 29 сер 2024
- The combination of quality climbing, exposure, aesthetics, and my overall spirits at this point in the climb, may make this my favorite pitch of the route. In truth, all the technical climbing after the Black Tower is top quality climbing.
EDIT:
Mountain Project Listing of the climb : www.mountainpr...
Epinephrine (5.9 YDS or 5b Font.) is located in Black Velvet Canyon within the Red Rock Canyon National Conservation Area just outside Las Vegas, NV.
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"As long as I don't fall it won't come out," is the best Trad line ever
That tripped me out. I couldn't believe he said that.
Watched this about 2 years ago and have been dreaming about climbing Epi ever since. Yesterday, got the summit and led half the pitches.
Luke congrats! That is fantastic news
Congrats man
Congrats
Congrats man! Good dream to chase and accomplish
Well done mate...doesn't matter how long it takes as long as you succeed...again,well done.
I gotta say. This is how I like to watch POV climbing videos. Much prefer this than one with a song dubbed over it to be honest
Absolutely 100%.
Thanks man! I appreciate that.
Alex Teoli Unless the wind noise from the camera drowns out everything else. Then bring in some music for sure.
I’ve been wanting to do videos like this for a while and finally I got a helmet cam last summer, go check out my channel and subscribe 👍 I hope to upload more this summer
Alex Te
"as long as I don't fall it won't come out" haha we've all been there
Hate it when you look down and....holy cow it did fall out! Better get something in quick!
Every piece is bomber if you don't whip!
Honest question. I've been climbing indoors on top rope for years and indoor lead for about a year and just got into outdoor sport climbing last month and have never done trad. If you know the gear will come out if you fall then why bother placing it?
@@billy2141 to make yourself feel better, lots of trad climbing is mental, he could have taken the time to find a piece that fit better but for whatever reason didn't
@@billy2141 At that point he’d rather continue on and find a better place to put gear. No point in taking it out though because it’s more of a hassle and it’s better than nothing. There’s a chance it could hold!
I never feel as nervous on the wall as I do when I'm watching videos of other people climbing.
That's great though. You have pretty good mental game, dude
hoooly saaame. my hands sweat harder watching videos than actually sending pitches
i wonder if it is the weird camera angle and/or the lack of situational control.
9:46 hurrrrrrrrrrrr. my heart skipped a beat.
Me too
I'm not scared of heights but the exposure on that climb is making the room spin! Awesome stuff, only done short single pitch stuff so far, can't wait to longer multi pitch big walls! What an achievement!
@Josh Smith a section of climbing between two anchor points, normally taken in turns to lead between two climbers, ‘swinging the lead’ as it’s a lot easier with rope management to do it that way
The effort and risk you take to create this content is exceptional.. keep up the good work!
"I don't know if I trust this, it all sounds hollow." *places janky .5 in sideways* Yeah we're good let's go!
Patrick Becerra I believe his exact words were "fuck it"
It wont move it out, if I dont fall
I believed he said, "as long as I don't fall it want came out"
Aye, but he moved directly on to a bomber piece of gear immediately afterwards (The bolt). Sometimes you need something in to give you peace of mind before you tackle a harder section.
Lol i was thinking that to!! That gear was on the lip!!!!
Well played sir!! I love the era of go pro POV climbing. Thanks for posting now I don’t have to go climb it myself. LOL
I love these videos. So real. The quiet muttering about bad placement options is classic. The "ah fuckit" moment when you decide to push on. We've all been there!
Constructive criticism? Maybe you've figured this out in the intervening year, but set those nuts WAY harder. If your follower isn't bitching about removing them, they're not set hard enough. All well and good for that top piece to have it softly set, but when the rope goes taught with a thousand pounds of force and the top piece blows, the physics get strange. You don't want the next piece in line to have rotated out...
Thanks Dude, appreciated.
In 6 years of posting videos, there has been been a fairly constant critique of my nut placements. While I've fallen maybe 1/2 dozen times, maybe more on nuts, I've never had one blow (yet). That said, it's a critique that I do take to heart, especially seeing how often it comes up.
It's Interesting (and educational ... and damn fun) re-watching climbing you've done years in the past. One of the bigger take-a-ways from the Red Rock videos in my opinion has been my lack of appreciation for the fragility of the rock out there. On the flip side of this, I think a few people that watch anything I've posted in the past 2 or 3 years lack an appreciation for just how tough the rock is in the Gunks. Largely, I applied Gunks tactics most of the way up this route, being the style of climbing I knew. In turn, I was slow, inefficient, and in select instances, not as safe as I could have been (nut placements being an example).
I'm asked maybe a dozen times a year from newer climbers, "What gear should I buy for "lead" climbing?". My answer to this question is as follows:
"When you feel comfortable safely explaining to someone else how to do it, then you'll know enough to know what gear to buy. Until then, the only time you'll be leading is with someone that is explaining it to yourself and they're going to have all the gear you need. This all said, if you're anything like me and every other climber out there, I also know you're not going to listen to this advice, so I'll offer some starters."
Despite how comfortable and enjoyable the climbing was after the chimneys, I was fortunate nothing bad happened. In the same vane, aren't we all, because days like this one are when we learn a lot about this thing we do. I learned a hell of lot this day and the more astute may even notice those lessons translated in the climbs I posted after this one.
Loved watching this video! The exposure, the atmosphere, everything about it! I'm only getting into trad now and seeing this I can't wait to be climbing stuff like this!:)
Keep climbing! :)
if you want to check out some more climbing content I just posted a new video and would love to hear what you think.
You making this is great because me and my brother are wanting to climb like you when where older thanks so much
Your uploads are much appreciated above the hyped-up "epic" stuff that's flooding youtube. Keep up this work.
I would be up there hollering and screaming and screaming and hollering! Petrified is not even the word 😂😂😂😂😂. Good job.
1:50
"As long as I don't fall it won't come out"
Haha, yup. I know those feels..
Holy cow. This was amazing. Thanks for sharing. This completely freaks me out but also makes be want to get into climbing! :D
if you want to check out some more climbing content I just posted a new video and would love to hear what you think.
These guys have balls of steel
Just got up off the floor from fainting watching this !
I climb power line poles everyday and learning to trust my bucksqueeze, gaffs, and secondary rope was hard enough. But little clips these guys rely on to hold them up just astounds me. We could use y’all on the poles
From perspective of 30 years. I wish when I was a climber that I'd thought about doing line work. It would have been a better fit than the other "career" moves made.
That's some awesome point of view, very scary though, but that's what keep us alive 😍
I’m from Italy and I love this videos. They make me relax...
Sei un grande!!!
Uella compatriota! Vorrei vederlo scalare in Dolomiti il ragazzo, nell'ultimo video che ha condiviso si lamenta della roccia 😂 Resta cmq uno molto bravo a scalare e nel tempo é migliorato anche molto nel mettere giù protezioni!
That 1st piece was purely for confidence that there was something. Would have done nothing to protect. Bomber climb :)
Pretty much ;)
It didn't look totally worthless. But the direction of pull was very off.
About 3" below that cam was a bomber nut placement !
Really love this video. So intimate and real!
I've recently introduced few of my friends to indoor climbing while getting back to climbing overall myself. I'm itching to get us outdoors for some sport/trad routes. Just came across this video while looking for lead trad climbing and this is a really nice video, no bs just pure climbing PoV, nice views but you're really looking and testing for good holds, where to place gear, testing said placements etc. all while running out of strength. You've definitely earned a like and a sub.
You guys are the bravest people I have ever seen. I would rather stay at home , watching my favorite movie with popcorn instead.
12:35= epic palm sweat
Bro I completely enjoyed that climb. I can tell that you've done a few big walls. Clean lead. Thanks for the ride.
Watch upside down, gives you a perpective
Wow, your right!
Looks awesome! I'm a search and rescue tech in Colorado specializing in primarily Water and Mountainous rescue. And could imagine the thrill of getting to ascend up this crazy Mountain! Awesome work 👍👌
Beautiful route I loved that video. Really makes me want to try it
This is like therapy for nerves on some little single pitch.
I loved all the footage of this climb. What an Awesome climb! You did it proud brother. Great job, and thank you so much!
Climb on, david
if you want to check out some more climbing content I just posted a new video and would love to hear what you think.
jeese, I can’t imagine how much subconscious teamwork this must take. I have never climbed but from watching it seems like they have to work completely symbiotically. One placing and one picking up, and the guy below always checking where his partner is and stays off his line accordingly i presume in case of rocks falling as lead guy looks for hand holds
The bottom guy doesn't climb, he's feeding the rope through a belay device, just chilling. Only after the lead is done climbing, he starts pulling the rope up through his belay device, and the second will then start moving up.
YOU GUYS MAKE THAT SHIT LOOK SO EASY ITS CRAZY
FOR THOSE THAT HAVE NEVER BEEN CLIMBING ON A PROPER BIG WALL. THE SENSATION OF FALLING BACK AND OFF THE WALL IS INSANE. THESE DUDES REST ON SOMETHING THAT MOST PEOPLE CANT EVEN USE TO CLIMB UP WIYH.
MAD RESPECT BOYS 👊🏼
Awesome pitch, nice video and channel! You know it's ok to have sketchy pieces, and it's ok to have run outs, but it is not ok to have both at the same time! Very difficult to judge from a video but seems to have some good placements for wires and medium cams... Take care!
Thanks my man!
Excellent footage. You were able to show all your movements perfectly. Looks like a challenging and fun climb.
Nice quiet vid of a superb peach of a pitch... In a spiffing setting... Thanks for sharing. xxx ;-)
Amazing video! It looks awesome and absolutely terrifying at the same time.
My heart rate is through the roof just watching! Subbed, bro.
nvomund he anchors, guy belaying him from below follows him up (he belays him from above) and takes the gear out as he goes. Rinse and repeat each pitch.
Oh my god i could never do this. Im freaking out while safe in my bed. And theres NO BREAKS and no bathrooms on the side of a cliff face.
Brave.
really like that you have the entire climb and show the gear placements. you got balls of steel on that last runout to the anchors haha. but good gear placements weren't obvious from what saw so maybe there wasnt another way lol
The correct balance of course, but sometimes we use up lots of energy to get a sort of kind of, maybe piece in., ...when it would have been better to power through. It took me some years to get to this point, or to put two pieces close and then run out longer sections.
I am cackling at how absurdly hollow it all sounds 😆
I sure hope it's partially a trick of the recording!
10 seconds in and my hands and feet are sweating like crazy
Wow, now that's some exposure for real!
what a wicked looking wall. this is awesome.
this is somuch better than Netflix
sweaty hands just watching. great videol
Very helpful video...love this POV style.
This whole thing is so scary lol how do people find this fun
Wow, that looks like an amazing climb for crimpers.
WOW, i do sports climbing, but what your doing seems to be a total different game !
It is much different to be on the "sharp end". To have to route find. To have to budget your protection and decide when it makes sense to place a piece and when it makes sense to preserve energy and run out a bit. It's also a challenge to find someone to help teach you to lead.
Very nice video - when watching you can the holds and the proportions pretty good - also nice to see you place the gear and have no cuts in the video..
Subbed
Wow, looks like fun man. Climbing looks awesome. If i ever get to the states, this’ll be on my hit list!
i constantly feel like puking when i watch this :D
Nice climb! and thank you for not banging your GoPro™ on the wall ... like many do.
Michael Thomas I’m notorious for that lol
Thanks..Great climbing.Maybe I'll see you at the Gunks this year.
I'm fourteen and just started rock climbing. I'm very passionate about it, and one day, hope to climb, and reach the summit, at anything in yosemite.
Edit: Also, do you guys have any recommendations on the best climbing shoes?
My very first pair were la sportiva tarantulaces. They worked very well since I was new and they were pretty comfortable. Knowing what kind of climbing you want to do helps determine the kind of shoes you want. If you’re into bouldering, I would go with a softer shoe. If you’re into sport/ top roping, I’d go with a stiffer one. My tarantulaces were a pretty good balance between the two so I was able to find what style I liked and go from there.
@@therockman1928 Gotcha, thanks a ton. I am aiming to do out door trad/toprope so I think I will get the stiffer kind. thanks a ton!
the best climbing shoes are the ones that fit your feet. Start looking at peoples feet and you'll realize how different we all are.....there are many different foot shapes and you need to find the ones that fit your particular feet. In my late 20's I found the perfect hiking boot and thought I'd solved on of lifes riddles. For years any time I needed a new pair it was an easy decision. Then they shopped making them and now I wish I were rich enough for custom boots.
Hey! I remember placing a stopper at that same stance at 5:00. Delightful climb.
Was there 2 days ago and and tried for the same nut placement before the bolt! 😆
Ah, I see that you have been taking a liking on my favorite too.
the video
I always have a sigh of relief for a bolt above a line of sketchy placements calling for a zipper.
Tri Cams! They slot in either cammed or as a static nut into some of those strange placements that he was running into.
my hands are so sweaty right now haha. Great content!
The anxiety I feel for the climbers but I can’t stop watching
Unreal....... Very strong mind !!!
Very aesthetic rock. And some bolts right there ;)
You guys are rock, respect.
I’m amazed by these videos especially the better climbers like this one. I have no intent to ever attempt climbing and never will.
If you are the top climber Is it possible to climb down 50 to 150 feet if your partner ran into a problem?
if you want to check out some more climbing content I just posted a new video and would love to hear what you think.
This is so unreal! They're superhumans!
This GoPro footage seems to be some of the more stable (less camera bouncing) on UA-cam. Curious, do you climb with "Reel Steady" on, or are you just very precise in your movements and prevent camera bobbling? Cheers!
That looks an outstanding route.
That rock looks so suspect. I wanted to climb this early next spring but damn, that's a lot of fragile looking features.
I thought that you would say sus lmao
Trad climbing must take so long! 😮
How do you get down from such a climb? Do you climb down again the same way you got up? If not, then how do you remove all the clips?
Looks like an awesome route
Wow nice climbing.... The best.
I subd watching this vid. I enjoy how quietly u lead. And u breath continually deep and slow...
When you yanked that cam out I would have lost it
It's funny watching that now. I don't remember that happening on the climb, and I certainly don't seemed too concerned about it in the video, but a couple years ago had that happened, it would have freaked me out.
Yea, don't do that @9:42. One will pop, hit you in the face and you'll fall. Otherwise, good job.
Is the link supported to be a video of someone having gear hit their face, because it links back to this video lol. Was looking to see an example - hopefully not though.
Watch at the vid at 9:42. He places a blue alien and then tests it by yanking on it and it pops. He nearly falls. Never "test" a cam by tugging on it. If it pops it will hit you in the face and you will likely fall. You cannot hand test a cam by tugging on it with what, 20# of force while you stand in balance? You have to bounce test them as if aiding and that still is only a test of body weight. You have to **know** the cam is good by seeing the lobes all placed properly in a nice parallel spot. That is all you can do. If placed right in good rock they are amazing strong.
Oh I'm with you, I thought you were linking to a video where that (hitting in face and falling) was linked. Im glad it didn't. I'm a new trad climber- learning the ins and outs and see so many people placing gear that I would never let myself trust. I don't get how these guys can place gear like that and say "as long as I don't fall it'll hold" then why are you placing it in the first place? It has one purpose - to hold you. Take some extra time to make yourself safe. Maybe I'm an old school new climber though. Climbing isn't worth dying for.
Dude that seems like an awesome pitch man
I just subscribed and I'll watch all of your videos! Crazy quality!!!
Impressive made it look effortless like Spiderman
i clicked on this video saying i wanted to get into mountain climbing but every time he looks down i feel it less and less
"F*ck it... as long as I don't fall it won't come out." - I know the feeling. :-)
"as long as I don't fall it won't come out". This is my criteria for solid placements as well :-p
Great looking pitch even with all those sketchy looking flakes.
@6:58 how is that rod bolted into the rock initially?
you are great my friend, I wish you to be very careful.
Hahah loved the "fuck it" after the first placement.
Thanks for the video.
Grandi davvero incredibile poter scalare le montagne potentemente.
My hands are sweating and l'm not even there .
Not a critique, just a question. At end of pitch it looked like you were cloving in to 'biner on one bolt. Did you eventually clove/anchor off on both or just stay attached to 1?
Both. I didn't use the cordlette and locker in anchor system, but it was visible on my rack, within reach and I just wanted to get something setup quickly before putting together the anchor system I would eventually use.
Something I learned doing this climb is the importance of efficiency when doing a climb this long. The epic we made it didn't need to be and part of that reason was our speed (we were stupid slow) and part being unfamiliar with techniques needed. I did something a little different for the anchors at the end of every pitch of this thing. Sometimes, that was demanded, but in hindsight, I had no reason to do so and I could have been 5 times faster at each of these anchors.
Did give me a good chance to experiment though, I learned a good bit.
So do you guys leave those cams in the rock or do you climb back down and and grab them on your way back down ?
Haha. I'm starting to feel tired and scared just looking at this. I'm like. Whens the anchor so we can both rest...
Do you just repel down and grab your anchors on the way down or how does getting down and collecting gear work?
what camera do you use to record your footage, and where/how do you mount it?
Wow, your literaly holding onto bricks....and not questioning it...
Wow I’m too climbing(I’m 13 yrs old) and it’s amazing
What are you using to record these?
That's so cool!!