As a trad climber I have 1 big tip: at 15:20 - 15:35 you place your cams directly into a vertical crack, but you are placing them in at the wrong angle. If you fall, then the cam will be pulled downwards, but you are placing the cams pointing outward and perpendicular to the cliff. You have the right idea to test the placement by yanking down on it, but notice how much the cam is moving and wiggling when you do. Instead, when you place the cam insert it at the same angle you'll be yanking/loading it. That way the lobes are already set in position and won't shift around when you yank on it.
Nice one Mike, thanks again for bringing me onboard to help film this one mate... It was great to watch the footage back and relive the trip! Psyched to get you smashing out some harder stuff in the summer 😎💪🏻
A huge thanks to Pete for teaching me and keeping me safe. I'm so psyched to have done this! Go checkout Pete's videos to see more content from the trip, including Pete's perspective and some crack climbing! ua-cam.com/video/mvr0oPGpWRI/v-deo.htmlsi=in5e5vFeTOXWC2DD
I knew Pete would be an inevitable guest on the channel once I saw the first climbing video. He just seems so down to meet up and teach content creators who are invested in the thing he loves most. Also a natural on camera regardless of whoever's channel he shows up on and a great coach in general.
How amazing to have Pete Whitaker teach you trad climbing. I haven't been on the sharp end of a rope for over a decade, but this video brings me right back to learning myself. Thanks for documenting this so well.
I just love the sound of climbing. That tinkling of the metal on rock, the sound of your shoes grinding on a rock face. I'm glad you have a good microphone.
Love the climbing content, I saw that you mentioned you wouldn't be doing any more on this channel. I would be nice to see your yearly progress in videos or strength tests as your climbing progresses.
Hi Mike - viewer from Georgia USA here, just wanted to say thank you for these videos. I've recently started getting into mountain and rock climbing and your videos have been easily digestible and extremely informative. Your shots of Pete placing gear and explaining the reasons behind "why" are so helpful. Hope to see you on a wall one day, cheers friend
i saw an interview were he said something along the line that he thinks its morde dangerous than free solo as you sometimes rely on dodgy placements. could be misquoting though
He would likely not. He's under the belief that free solo is safe since you choose your route well within your comfort zone and are well aware of the consequences of a fall. The British trad folks do really sketchy things on poor gear. That will in some cases be more dangerous. Dave MacLeod has also talked about this.
The fatality rate may be higher for free soloing but the injury rate is probably much, much higher for trad climbing. Most people who freesolo don't try to pull a "Honnold." They usually stick to routes and difficulties way within their comfort zone. The people who don't aren't usually around long enough. Trad climbers often push their limits on very sketchy walls with questionable gear(placements) and there are quite a few examples where the crux moves can lead to some falls on dangerous terrain below.
I started watching your climbing vids at the beginning and felt an urge to do it. Now, 9 months later, and knowing what I know, Trad Climbing is my goal. Absolutely fucking thank you Mike; I've been searching for a positive physical outlook for my ADHD to become obsessed with and you've done it. Let's hope I see you out on the rocks in the Peaks. Again, thank you, for the inspiration. All of your vidya's have been epic.
PEEEEEEEETTTTTTTTTTTTEEEEEEEEEEEE just love you man, never heard of crack climbing before you where with magnus Midtbø and since then I am just so intrigued by it. It's so unconventional it's fascinating. Nice to see you on another channel making others discover climbing I am a rugby player and I have loads of friends that climb, you where one of the reasons I go and climb sometimes with them. 🔥🔥🔥
Man, that first trad lead is definitely nervewracking! Having an awesome teacher with you makes all the difference in the world though. Awesome job! My first (and one of my only) trad leads, I had my biggest climbing mentor with me. Such a calming presence to break through the nerves. Up there with the first time cleaning my own sport route as far as nerves go, that's for sure! Nothing quite like untying yourself from the wall to pass the rope through the anchors to get ready to rapel😅
when it gets really shitty for the typical cams, stoppers, and nuts, you can sometimes multiple bad anchor points and tie them together with a sling. the idea is that if one anchor might get ripped out in one direction, there's another one that can take load from that direction. it's obviously better to just give up, not risk it and get back down, but sometimes you get into long climbs and shitty situation. and then, you better risk your life on 2 bad anchors, than risk it on a single one.
You are the main reason I got into climbing and it has made my life so much better I'm staying on top of my studies and keeping active so thank you so much
Hello Mike, I found your channel by bike tricks, then I saw your videos of various discipline of climbing and started trying bouldering 6 months ago, I had invested about 120hrs since then(while still cycling a whole lot ) I was never an athletic person until I started cycling about 3 years ago, and I just turned 30 last year I really love your spirit of trying new stuff every now and then, so I plan to try a new kind of sport or maybe a trick/ skill every year until I physically can't, I haven't made up my mind yet Thank you for your inspiration and good to see you kept on climbing!
Beautiful! Had a trad course this year and did a 7 pitch route in Wales in mist and storm. It was amazing.. it wasn't fun during the first 2 pitches due to the nerves but once I could finally focus on the climbing it felt so good.. trad climbing is immense fun but you definitely need a good instructor first!
Great video, same way I learned to trad climb and the way I would recommend anyone to: with the mentorship of a competent guide (doesn’t have to be Pete though 😂) can’t believe you left out anchor building though! That’s the trickiest part in my opinion
Interesting observation with Pete being deliberate and careful in his movements on an easy climb. I think it was Alex honnold who said it’s very common for a lot of accidents and falls to happen on the easiest climbs because your not paying attention as much as when your really pushing your limits.
Congrats on your first multipitch trad, it is always a life changer. One tip on cam/friend placement …. One side of the cam is wider than the other. Always try to put that wider side on the bottom. Less likelihood of that cam walking out of the crack with any rope pull. Climb on brother.
as an 11 year cllimber who lives and breathes climbing.. Ive gotten into trad, sport and bouldering and don tons of each... thousands of hrs of each probably. and honestly just prefer classic bouldering.. Its just so natural to me, chill, plus i can do it alone and even a 2 hr session after work is perfect. trad or sport takes so much time..
Honestly Mike doing bouldering content would have to have a good story behind it, bouldering in that range isn't very interesting to watch for the most part unless he goes after something really classic. A trip to Font and trying to tackle something like La Marie Rose might be interesting.
Your content shifted completely over this year, but I'm still here. I'm not sure if I'm interested in climbing, but your videos are great and entertaining regardless the topic. Keep doing what you love
Ive been climbing for a little over 1 year. Sadly i didnt have a mentor, so i had to teach myself all this stuff by myself. Additionally i live in saxony and we have the saxon and czech sandstone right outside the door, so naturally i climb there alot. Its almost exclusivly trad with the extra challenge of only being allowed textile trad gear (knots and slings) i worked my way up from uiaa 3-4 to uiaa 7- to 7+. I am so greatfull for any ring i find and have climbed a route on the „vorderer gansfels“ which is 100m long and has a uiaa grade of 7- which has 2 rings for the entire route. I wish i had a mentor like pete, but slowly i feel more and more comfortable running it out on slings stuck in cracks. Also my climbing partner has started to lead some routes, taking abit of risk from my back. Climbing is awsome. Stay at it.
I could never do an activity that starts with "are you ok with dying today?". Fatalities at this sport are... not zero. I have a friend who friend died doing this, and only this year Kris Nova died doing this - both good climbers. Good luck to you!
Wow! Nice job Mike. It's really cool to see your progression in climbing. As someone who has climbed for about 9 years and can climb decently hard stuff, I've never dared to try trad climbing :D Although I've been pushed to do it by others, I haven't done it properly. So cool to see you successfully do it in the first year of climbing. And the move at 14:00 mark was impressive, didn't look easy :p
I'm going to show my friends who I teach trad this video. It is a really good example of how to work through your fear and protect your climbing with confidence.
I used to climb when I was a kid outdoors all the time with the dad. I’m 33 now and havent climbed in like 20 years since my dad died. Your video series is giving me the itch though…
You have to join a boulder comp. Somting like a open style. When I first strated that made me really love the bouldering cumunetie. And now I am boulder trainer, route setter and just love it.
Great effort. :) would highly reccomend you learn about using nuts as well. Cams are quick and efficient, but nuts are super useful as well. in fact they're an absolute necessity on some rock types. My personal favourite is a black dmm offset. Dont know what it is about that particular nut, but as soon as I've placed it I feel as safe as If I'm standing on flat ground.
after youve tried all of the main climbing styles. could you make like a tier list of which ones your favorite and why and which is the hardest and so on
Cool video. FYI-Trad vs Sport climbing does not equate to Gear vs Bolts. I know that is a popular concept these days but real trad is so much more than the difference between what type of protection you use.
@mikeboyd Would you like to do the same for skiing since you seem to like skiing too? Would be a pleasure to teach you how to freestyle ski or simply ski better ;) /Jens
So how do you get back down? I've always wanted to try climbing outdoors, hell I don't even climb indoors (only been twice). Don't really have any friends who are down to go so just kinda stuck always thinking it would be cool, with every now and then videos like this showing up in my feed
Probably to reduce rope drag. The fewer harsh changes in angle the rope makes, the smoother it feeds and the less you have to fight with it while leading.
Awesome Mike!! such great progress in such a short space of time. Was great having you guys. thanks very much :D
As a trad climber I have 1 big tip: at 15:20 - 15:35 you place your cams directly into a vertical crack, but you are placing them in at the wrong angle. If you fall, then the cam will be pulled downwards, but you are placing the cams pointing outward and perpendicular to the cliff. You have the right idea to test the placement by yanking down on it, but notice how much the cam is moving and wiggling when you do. Instead, when you place the cam insert it at the same angle you'll be yanking/loading it. That way the lobes are already set in position and won't shift around when you yank on it.
Nice one Mike, thanks again for bringing me onboard to help film this one mate... It was great to watch the footage back and relive the trip! Psyched to get you smashing out some harder stuff in the summer 😎💪🏻
A huge thanks to Pete for teaching me and keeping me safe. I'm so psyched to have done this! Go checkout Pete's videos to see more content from the trip, including Pete's perspective and some crack climbing! ua-cam.com/video/mvr0oPGpWRI/v-deo.htmlsi=in5e5vFeTOXWC2DD
3
2@@jarPlays11
@@idoparag 4
5
🐇
You've had such a mega first year of climbing. Very jealous!
I knew Pete would be an inevitable guest on the channel once I saw the first climbing video. He just seems so down to meet up and teach content creators who are invested in the thing he loves most. Also a natural on camera regardless of whoever's channel he shows up on and a great coach in general.
Climbing at Stanage Popular with Pete Whittaker has got to be every trad heads dream! This is awesome Mike, glad you’re enjoying the climbing!
How amazing to have Pete Whitaker teach you trad climbing. I haven't been on the sharp end of a rope for over a decade, but this video brings me right back to learning myself. Thanks for documenting this so well.
Love how this is slowly becoming a climbing channel
I just love the sound of climbing. That tinkling of the metal on rock, the sound of your shoes grinding on a rock face. I'm glad you have a good microphone.
Agreed. It teleports me.
Love the climbing content, I saw that you mentioned you wouldn't be doing any more on this channel. I would be nice to see your yearly progress in videos or strength tests as your climbing progresses.
every video is incredible. you are truely one of the most inspiring people ive ever seen. loved all these climbing vids youve been making.
Hi Mike - viewer from Georgia USA here, just wanted to say thank you for these videos. I've recently started getting into mountain and rock climbing and your videos have been easily digestible and extremely informative. Your shots of Pete placing gear and explaining the reasons behind "why" are so helpful.
Hope to see you on a wall one day, cheers friend
16:26 And on the next episode of learn quick: BASE jumping! 😅
This series and watching Magnus makes me really want to get back to climbing again.
Never too late to get back into it :D
I love your climbing content as a climber
alex honnold would disagree with this title
i saw an interview were he said something along the line that he thinks its morde dangerous than free solo as you sometimes rely on dodgy placements. could be misquoting though
He would likely not. He's under the belief that free solo is safe since you choose your route well within your comfort zone and are well aware of the consequences of a fall.
The British trad folks do really sketchy things on poor gear. That will in some cases be more dangerous. Dave MacLeod has also talked about this.
He’s an incredible athlete and an interesting human. That doesn’t make him a smart or thoughtful guy though. He’s got screws loose for sure.
The fatality rate may be higher for free soloing but the injury rate is probably much, much higher for trad climbing.
Most people who freesolo don't try to pull a "Honnold." They usually stick to routes and difficulties way within their comfort zone. The people who don't aren't usually around long enough.
Trad climbers often push their limits on very sketchy walls with questionable gear(placements) and there are quite a few examples where the crux moves can lead to some falls on dangerous terrain below.
I started watching your climbing vids at the beginning and felt an urge to do it. Now, 9 months later, and knowing what I know, Trad Climbing is my goal. Absolutely fucking thank you Mike; I've been searching for a positive physical outlook for my ADHD to become obsessed with and you've done it. Let's hope I see you out on the rocks in the Peaks.
Again, thank you, for the inspiration. All of your vidya's have been epic.
So enjoyable to see people becoming totally enthralled with my favorite hobby
I love how I don't care for climbing, but the way you tell storys is so incredible that makes me want to watch it
PEEEEEEEETTTTTTTTTTTTEEEEEEEEEEEE just love you man, never heard of crack climbing before you where with magnus Midtbø and since then I am just so intrigued by it. It's so unconventional it's fascinating. Nice to see you on another channel making others discover climbing
I am a rugby player and I have loads of friends that climb, you where one of the reasons I go and climb sometimes with them. 🔥🔥🔥
Man, that first trad lead is definitely nervewracking! Having an awesome teacher with you makes all the difference in the world though. Awesome job!
My first (and one of my only) trad leads, I had my biggest climbing mentor with me. Such a calming presence to break through the nerves. Up there with the first time cleaning my own sport route as far as nerves go, that's for sure! Nothing quite like untying yourself from the wall to pass the rope through the anchors to get ready to rapel😅
when it gets really shitty for the typical cams, stoppers, and nuts, you can sometimes multiple bad anchor points and tie them together with a sling. the idea is that if one anchor might get ripped out in one direction, there's another one that can take load from that direction. it's obviously better to just give up, not risk it and get back down, but sometimes you get into long climbs and shitty situation. and then, you better risk your life on 2 bad anchors, than risk it on a single one.
Been binging these climbing videos and I love them haha, can't wait to see Mike Boyd: Burden of Dreams
lool
nice to see you’re still climbing i just started a few months ago and love it
You are the main reason I got into climbing and it has made my life so much better I'm staying on top of my studies and keeping active so thank you so much
So happy for you, Mike! What an accomplishment! Hope you're proud of those climbs (and the video, of course)
I like how the title isn't called: I TRIED THE MOST DANGEROUS TYPE OF CLIMBING EVER!
I TRIED THE MOST DANGEROUS TYPE OF CLIMBING EVER! - AND YOU WON'T BELIEVE WHAT HAPPENED!!!
Hello Mike, I found your channel by bike tricks, then I saw your videos of various discipline of climbing and started trying bouldering 6 months ago, I had invested about 120hrs since then(while still cycling a whole lot )
I was never an athletic person until I started cycling about 3 years ago, and I just turned 30 last year
I really love your spirit of trying new stuff every now and then, so I plan to try a new kind of sport or maybe a trick/ skill every year until I physically can't, I haven't made up my mind yet
Thank you for your inspiration and good to see you kept on climbing!
One might argue that free soloing is the most dangerous type of climbing
The first route is Hargreaves original in stanedge popular , a hard route especially for your first trad 😮
ALWAYS A GOOD DAY WHEN MIKE POSTS💪💪
Time for a vid with Dave McLeod! You can do the 8th(?) ascent of Rhapsody.
Okay time to do freeclimbing
Beautiful! Had a trad course this year and did a 7 pitch route in Wales in mist and storm. It was amazing.. it wasn't fun during the first 2 pitches due to the nerves but once I could finally focus on the climbing it felt so good.. trad climbing is immense fun but you definitely need a good instructor first!
Great video, same way I learned to trad climb and the way I would recommend anyone to: with the mentorship of a competent guide (doesn’t have to be Pete though 😂) can’t believe you left out anchor building though! That’s the trickiest part in my opinion
Interesting observation with Pete being deliberate and careful in his movements on an easy climb. I think it was Alex honnold who said it’s very common for a lot of accidents and falls to happen on the easiest climbs because your not paying attention as much as when your really pushing your limits.
Congrats on your first multipitch trad, it is always a life changer. One tip on cam/friend placement …. One side of the cam is wider than the other. Always try to put that wider side on the bottom. Less likelihood of that cam walking out of the crack with any rope pull. Climb on brother.
I really am so impressed with how far you've come on your climbing journey, Mike!
Glad to see something as simple as just trying bouldering turn into a passion. Great stuff!
as an 11 year cllimber who lives and breathes climbing.. Ive gotten into trad, sport and bouldering and don tons of each... thousands of hrs of each probably. and honestly just prefer classic bouldering.. Its just so natural to me, chill, plus i can do it alone and even a 2 hr session after work is perfect. trad or sport takes so much time..
Mikes climbing content is the best, would love to see more bouldering 😊
same, some bouldering content would be great.
Found the gym rat.
Ahh but I’m a gym rat too. Crap
Honestly Mike doing bouldering content would have to have a good story behind it, bouldering in that range isn't very interesting to watch for the most part unless he goes after something really classic. A trip to Font and trying to tackle something like La Marie Rose might be interesting.
Begone, pebble wrestlers
Your content shifted completely over this year, but I'm still here. I'm not sure if I'm interested in climbing, but your videos are great and entertaining regardless the topic. Keep doing what you love
its always good to have a fantastic teacher and clearly you found one
Mike never disappoint us! Finally another amazing video before going to sleep!
Cliffhanger at the end makes for a very nice pun. But HOW do you go back down though? Now I want to know.
Ive been climbing for a little over 1 year. Sadly i didnt have a mentor, so i had to teach myself all this stuff by myself. Additionally i live in saxony and we have the saxon and czech sandstone right outside the door, so naturally i climb there alot. Its almost exclusivly trad with the extra challenge of only being allowed textile trad gear (knots and slings) i worked my way up from uiaa 3-4 to uiaa 7- to 7+. I am so greatfull for any ring i find and have climbed a route on the „vorderer gansfels“ which is 100m long and has a uiaa grade of 7- which has 2 rings for the entire route. I wish i had a mentor like pete, but slowly i feel more and more comfortable running it out on slings stuck in cracks. Also my climbing partner has started to lead some routes, taking abit of risk from my back. Climbing is awsome. Stay at it.
I could never do an activity that starts with "are you ok with dying today?". Fatalities at this sport are... not zero. I have a friend who friend died doing this, and only this year Kris Nova died doing this - both good climbers. Good luck to you!
Wow! Nice job Mike. It's really cool to see your progression in climbing. As someone who has climbed for about 9 years and can climb decently hard stuff, I've never dared to try trad climbing :D Although I've been pushed to do it by others, I haven't done it properly. So cool to see you successfully do it in the first year of climbing. And the move at 14:00 mark was impressive, didn't look easy :p
I'm going to show my friends who I teach trad this video. It is a really good example of how to work through your fear and protect your climbing with confidence.
Wish I had a Pete Whittaker to help teach me trad hehe
This is the exact same spot I learned trad years ago as well! Lovely spot for it!
What route did he lead?
Cheers
Hi Mike, u should try darts I love to see if u could get real good at that and even get a 80 to 100 average🎯👏
Hope you enjoyed Norway, with it's rain and the famous BERGEN? sign at the Flesland airport!🇳🇴
Man, that's so cool! Makes me want to learn to climb. So enjoyable to watch
I used to climb when I was a kid outdoors all the time with the dad. I’m 33 now and havent climbed in like 20 years since my dad died. Your video series is giving me the itch though…
Do it! You will regret it if you don’t reckon
You have to join a boulder comp. Somting like a open style. When I first strated that made me really love the bouldering cumunetie. And now I am boulder trainer, route setter and just love it.
Learning to rappel coming soon
mike went from a skill learning channel to a climbing channel and its great
Watched this on the widboyz channel……..stellar work 👏🏻
Free solo next!😃
Loved the Pete collab! ❤
Always love your climbing videos
amazing journey! go mike boyd!
Wonderful climbing video!! If you keep learning new things, keep climbing, or a mix of both, either way I will stay for the ride!
That looks super fun, looks like you picked up the placement quite quickly!
Piece of Cake(5.7) was my first TR route. Mike says it once he does his first lead route. Kind of crazy haha.
15:46 that brach is not gonna hold you if you fall on that :d
Absolutely love these climbing videos! Keep them coming
Great effort. :) would highly reccomend you learn about using nuts as well. Cams are quick and efficient, but nuts are super useful as well. in fact they're an absolute necessity on some rock types.
My personal favourite is a black dmm offset. Dont know what it is about that particular nut, but as soon as I've placed it I feel as safe as If I'm standing on flat ground.
My thoughts exactly. I feel like a little nut on that first placement might be perfect! Love seeing the process of mike learning!
after youve tried all of the main climbing styles. could you make like a tier list of which ones your favorite and why and which is the hardest and so on
Hey nice Climb.
Where did you climb there?
Have some links of topos?
Thanks :)
Remember to extend those slings to decrease the chance of the cam moving 😉
Great job 😊
You went to bergen???
Good job Mike!
I thought, "Wow the flies must be really bad in Norway" but then remembered there were drones about
This was so well done
This is awesome!
so sick
I wonder what do you do with those hooks after youre done climbing? How do you recover them all? Or you just leave them hanging in the rock?
Cool video. FYI-Trad vs Sport climbing does not equate to Gear vs Bolts. I know that is a popular concept these days but real trad is so much more than the difference between what type of protection you use.
Beautiful!
@mikeboyd Would you like to do the same for skiing since you seem to like skiing too? Would be a pleasure to teach you how to freestyle ski or simply ski better ;) /Jens
this was pure awesome
If you're in a spot with bad cam placements can you just stuff multiple clamps into the same crack to make up for it?
So how do you get back down? I've always wanted to try climbing outdoors, hell I don't even climb indoors (only been twice). Don't really have any friends who are down to go so just kinda stuck always thinking it would be cool, with every now and then videos like this showing up in my feed
" the only thing that remains is... How do we get back down?" - Mike (16:
26) is the best segway into his next vid!
How exactly do you get back down?😂
I am so going to try this climbing when I’m older
-How do we get back down?
-Paragliding!!!!!!!!!!!!
U the guy my man. 😊
Curious, it didn't seem like you extended the placements, did he tell you to do that?
Well this in Something im very passionate about!
It's not far from her to see Mr. Boyd try Parkour with the Storror boys and girls. ⚔⚔⚔
Seriously, how do you get back down and how do you get your gear back? Do you have to climb down or rappel?
How do you rappel from a trad climb?
where was this filmed because i think it's near me but im not sure. i wanna have ago if so. at the start of the video
Stanage
@@ppeppe huh
Anyone know why are they alternating which rope they clip into their protection?
Probably to reduce rope drag. The fewer harsh changes in angle the rope makes, the smoother it feeds and the less you have to fight with it while leading.
How did you get back down?!
Hey mike, just wondering why you switched from the vapor v to tarantula shoes midway trough the vid?
He switches to tc pro’s