i`ve watched a lot of car programs on tv and your channel is the first one that shows work being done and tools actually being used not a load of mechanics moaning to each other about the job an timeline. Great channel i`m clueless when it comes to cars but find your video great to watch the engine swap videos got me started on your channel
Eric you are just like me. "I'm going to hang on to these because one day down the road I might need a part from in here." it just happens that you hang onto it for 6 months finally throw it away and one week later you have a reason to need it. never ever fails
Eric, you saved me a ton of headache on guessing what's inside my diff . And what id need to do to get a seal and bearing replaced on my crown Vic. 9:45 Thank you so much for your time to show the DIYers how it's done.
I'm in the process of rebuilding a Ford 8.8 to put under my Mustang. I've watched this video probably 2-3x already and I'm sure I will again before the jobs done. Very helpful for a novice mechanic.
Wish you were near me. I would work for you for free just so I could learn what you know. You are a great mentor and father figure. Keep up the good work Eric.
Thank you for this series. It was the difference between selling my truck to pull a part, & putting it back on the road. I'd have never tried to rebuild a differential without videos like these.
One man can change the world! Your videos are so awesome that I decided to cancel my cable television. No more monthly payments to Time Warner, Dish Network, etc. Thank you, Eric, for a great deal of knowledge and entertainment. I’ve been working on cars for over 30 years, but I learn something from every one of your videos. The fact that you never rush, and that you always explain both the theory and the functioning of the parts thoroughly, really sets you apart.
In the beginning you called it a posi-trac. I was losing my mind trying not to correct you, so I kept watching. You specified the Trac-loc (l/s) and a weight lifted off my shoulders. Thank you for being knowledgable.
hey Eric the car guy. I'm 17 years old and from Indiana. I plan to be like you 1 day. I go to college this year's for automotive. you have helped me soo much!!
Eric, you did a great job on showing all the different tools a person needs to work on the differential and you hit on all the important points of marking the parts so it all goes back together correctly also thanks for showing your work instead of fast fording to the end to save time .... Stay safe and stay dirty !!!!!!
A quick and easy way to remove the e-brake cables from backing plates is to slide a boxed end wrench over the expanded tangs, I think 1/2'' wrench for most. It compresses them all at the same time and the cable pulls right out. Beats fighting them with a screw driver.
@ 3:00 - a small hose clamp slipped over the end of the cable down the backing plate (leave maybe 1/4" gap) easily compresses those tangs enough to just pop right out.
Thanks Eric for putting the Ford 8.8 videos up. A couple years ago I acquired a '93 F150 base model with the tried/true combo of the 300 six, M5OD and 8.8 rear with 3.55 gear set. The previous owner drove it with a totally destroyed rear u-joint. After I went through the truck I noticed that on short runs at highway speed the diff was getting abnormally hot up around the pinion bearing(s). No noise or other symptoms. I'm suspecting that bad u joint trashed at least the outer pinion bearing. Thanks to your helpful videos on teardown and setup (in addition to a factory service manual), I feel confident that I can do a rebuild.
OMG OMG OMG! I have never hit play so fast. I'm actually early for an ETCG video for once! The last time I came this fast, my girlfriend left me. Roll on the rest of the Fairmont videos!
I use a paint roller. hammer the handle arm flat. spray brake cleaner in tube and push debris to center. clean it out. makes for a great, clean tube assy. Be sure to pack outer wheel bearings with axle grease due to it taking a while to lube. If not you'll burn up outer axle bearing. Great video AS ALWAYS ERIC!!
Love Eric's video have been subbed and watched for years. Sometimes I forget to thumbs-up them when I watch them but when he made the tractor beam sound and said "amber vision" i scrambled for the thumbs up. Even though without it Eric would have gotten the thumbs up.
Have assisted in building a 12 bolt and a couple 9 inch rears. So interesting to see an 8.8. Didn't know they shared anything with a 12 bolt. Looking forward to the rest of this series. Setting rear ends up was probably the most time consuming/precision thing have ever done on cars, as if not done right, esp on a performance car, it will cost you. Heh wish youtube would have been around then, would have helped alot.
Thanks for making this video Eric. I'm currently attending a trade school, doing the automotive program at Universal Technical Institute and I'm in manual transmission learning about differentials.
Great video as usual,you're not a pack rat, your smart, i do the same thing, i have a cardboard box where i have tons of Mustang parts, springs, screws,levers, brackets, you name it,even light bulbs,those parts have come in handy more than once specially now these cars and their family like your Fairmont are getting scarce.
A little late now but I use a box end wrench to remove brake cables from the backing plate. I forgot what size worked best but with the right size it can be removed very quickly.
Watched you last night and today I pulled my very first diff apart. Keys were missing but I got really lucky and when I pulled the cover off the pin retainer screw was right there and I didn't have to remove the drive shaft. I was just going for the carrier to swap my ring gear onto but you gave us everything
Hey Eric,I wanted to say I use a box end wrench to take them type of parking brake cables off. I just slide the one that fits over it down, and it pulls the tabs in and you can just slide the cable off, that is if your gong to reuse them.
I replaced an axle on a 2000 E150 - sans limited slip! - purty much like this. The air hammer/chisel is pretty much the tool 'o' the century! Nice vid!
Eric, noticed you when you were pressing out that pinion bearing, that the support blocks you pressed from were on the bolt heads of the bearing puller, instead of parallel with the bolts. Naughty.
A few years ago my outer pinion bearing in my 01 Durango's rear axle, it howled all the way home. I helped my dad replace the pinion and carrier bearings at home ourselves, because a shop would have charged about 700 to do it, , but a good quality set of bearings only cost $100. Its a Chrysler 9.25 with 3.55:1 gears. The pinion was a little smaller than that, but it was still fairly large and very heavy.
I am really liking the direction of this build mostly because I love old Ford cars and trucks, also I like a good sleeper. I'll bet it's going to be fun on the street with 5 speed
I've used a 9/16 or 1/2 inch boxed end wrench to compress the tabs on the Parking brake cable retainer. That works quickly. Slide the wrench over the cable and it compresses the tabs.
Axles tubes on the 8.8" Fords are actually not welded on. It's a good idea to weld and paint them if you are running higher HP. ;)Can be done on vehicle. Also good idea to weld torque boxes and add reinforcement plates. You can add a hose on the breather vent. If you use a in-line fuel filter and hose clamp, nothing will get down into the rear end. I think we used VW style plastic fuel filters. Forgot what size hose...
Another great video! Like the rest of us, you certainly are happier working on a project that has nothing to do with work. I really enjoyed this one...
Those wheel bearings can be tough - I nearly pulled my truck sideways off the jack stands doing that job once. If you can't get the bearing out just cut it with a die grinder to release the bite and it will slide right out. Its always good practice to mark the caps - every axle I've happened to take apart has always had letters on each cap and on each sealing surface of the diff.
I'm really looking forward to the rest of these 8.8 videos. I have two 8.8 axles that need to be rebuilt. These videos will help me decide if I should take them to the axle shop to get them done or if I should invest in the tools to do them myself.
Oh man this was a great video! I don't know much about differential rebuilding so I definitely learned something. Looking forward to the subsequent videos!
Someone may have mentioned this before, but the damage on the crush sleeve was from the fragment pieces you found inside the case. You could see them near the sleeve location when the pinion bearing races were being hammered out. Sorry if this was a repeat comment. Love to watch you work, Eric... hate to have to do the same thing myself as a follow up.
Thanks for another great video! On getting the smell of dif oil out of your skin, I use 50/50 pine sol/water then dish soap. Seems to do a pretty good job!
Ive been there and had to reuse the crush sleeve too . put an old long socket or pipe the right size and work your way around with a hammer. Its not good practice to do this, but when suppliers don't you just have too on occasion.
I would have probably put the spare parts up for sale on ebay or craigs list...never know some might need them.....or save them for a budget build. That's just me....how ever so happy to see the fairmont build.
Using a 3-4 stone hone to enlarge the bore of the pinion bearing is much easier keeps the bore centered and provides a more accurate fit and setup. It does not take much material removal to get the bearing to easily slip over the pinion without requiring a press, but the bore needs to remain centered and perpendicular with the bearing face. Take care, avoid making the bore tapered, not round, not centered, not square or too large. Be sure to thoroughly and completely clean the modified bearing and race, then lightly lubricate with a light lubricant such as WD-40 or ATF before using. Do not use the modified bearing for the final assembly, it will result in bearing and gear failure. Using the old rear pinion bearing as a setup tool is only possible if the old bearing is identical to the new bearing, the old bearing must be in good condition, not worn and not damaged. If necessary, purchase 2 new pinion bearings and modify only 1 to use for trial fit setups. Be sure to mark the modified bearing to avoid mix-ups and using the modified bearing in a final assembly. Pinion bearings (rear) are almost always a press fit, if a rear pinion bearing is a slip fit on the pinion shaft check it for modifications. Lubricate the marked modified bearing to prevent corrosion and save in the original bearing package and paper wrap, this will help prevent corrosion, it is now a tool for future setups/installations. If you are reusing the existing pinion and or pinion bearings do not drive the pinion out of the housing with a hammer. The impact on the bearings damages them and possibly damages the pinion threads, instead use a simple 2-3-4 jaw puller to separate the flange from the pinion shaft. Best wishes with your projects.
I'm not sure if you've ever tried them but I just started using panther grip gloves. They are incredible. Super strong and extremely comfortable. I noticed you are wearing just the normal white ones. If you haven't tried them before they really are worth a look. I haven't ripped a glove yet.
Trick for you Eric use the box end of a 13mm or 1/2 inch wrench to compress the spring retaining clips of the parking brake cables and they will pull right out of the backing plate
Eric, a tip for the brake cables. use a 1/2" or 13 mm box end wrench and slip it over the cable, driving it down over the cable retaining tangs. Found it very helpful when dealing with brake cables. use an older wrench.
Hi, just replaced all the bearings in my Lincoln Town Car that uses the same differential. Your video was great advice so I knew what was coming and what to look out for. It went smooth but I did it with the differential in the car and only jack stands, no lift. It was no fun but doable. Had to improvise regarding the preload on the pinion bearings since I have no lb/in or cNm torque measurement tool and they are about 300$+ overhere. I worked with a thin and light wooden bar and weights and did some math. Also, no press but heating the bearing to 200F in water and freezing the pinion gear and carrier in the freezer was enough to let the bearings glide on with no effort. Physics and math can sometimes replace expensive tools! The differential works absolutely fine now and I was abel to do it on a weekend. Best regards from Germany.
Hope you do a IFS front axle next off an F-150. Straight axles aren't much of a challenge unless you are working in the snow in your driveway! Like the idea of changing the rear drums to discs too.
hey Eric, another quick way to remove those parking brake cables is to use a hose clamp. slip it over the cable to the retaining fingers, tighten the clamp just enough to slip the cable thru.
Hi, I have a very strange clunking somewhere in my driveline that only happens after it has been driven for a while to warm up and it only happens at very very slow speed, even less then walking speed but it is a savage clunk that goes right through the truck. It is a 2001 Ford Explorer Sport Trac 4x4. I have checked the uni's and they are all good. Thanks.
Damn. Not sure how but you're always working on exactly what I am when I'm doing it. I had my Outback that's when I found and subbed your channel and learned everything I needed for that. Now I have a Ford with an 8.8 that needs rebuilt look today and here you are rebuilding one. Hahaha
In your video about progress on the Fairmont you stated that you had shot more than 60 videos at that point on the car. I hope these video come out more than once a week, or we're all going to be a lot older when this is done LOL. Love your videos!
The only differential I have first-hand experience with is the Ford 9" out of my '68 Galaxie... That is *very* different than this one. I can see why people prefer the 9" -- the whole gear-set just pops in and out with about a tenth of the work you had to do there to get those gears out.
It's a tuned damper. It stops the axle, bushing "system" vibrating when the rotational frequency of the propshaft matches the resonant frequency of the axle and bushings. It's a bodge, low unsprung weight is good, large lumps of metal bolted to the axle, not so good.
I don't know if this was said in the comments before me or not but its actually pretty easy to make a parking brake wire removal tool. I made one for my 8.8 swap into my wrangler and it worked on both the ford and jeep parking brakes. I just took a small 12-16in piece of thin wall 3/8 inner diameter tubing if i remember correctly and tightened it in the vise so it crushed flat about half way down the tube then I ran a large easy out tool into the end of the pipe so it expanded it and gave it a taper. after that i just bent the pipe in half where the crease was from the vice and used the bottom of it as a handle so you can wiggle it back and fourth and move it around until you catch all of the keepers and pull on the cable on the other side and it should pop right out
Good old "80-90 Stink"! I agree I hate that smell too! Just wanted you to know that I learned a couple of things. I learned how to use my brake spring tool! I've done my fair share of drum brake jobs too. I haven't see the offset box end wrenches like you used. Thanks!
Just a suggestion, but a way to help with the pack rat problem is boxes. I know it sounds stupid, but when doing something like a tear down of a diff like what you did here, putting the parts from one side into a small box just big enough to fit them and labeling the box with whats inside can help. If you have a box for each side with a label sitting on a shelf somewhere, eventually you'll either use them or need the space. In that case you can throw the box away without opening it so you don't have as much of that "I might need this" problem down the road. If you can't see the parts, you're less likely to hesitate about it. That's how it's worked for me in the past anyway.
See a few differences between this and the 8.8 in my Ranger. (5 bolt vs 4. Vent on left vs right. Brake line splitter bolted to top, not bottom, etc...) Still close enough to make a good tutorial if I ever need to tear mine down. Adding it to my favorites playlist.
Determine whether your rear end is posi Trac or open-ended spindle Wheels Anna left side forward and the right side wheel will turn in reverse that is an open-ended rear end if both Wheels turn in the same direction that is a close rear end is a posi track or equal lock or whatever it's an easy way to determine whether it has it or not
i`ve watched a lot of car programs on tv and your channel is the first one that shows work being done and tools actually being used not a load of mechanics moaning to each other about the job an timeline. Great channel i`m clueless when it comes to cars but find your video great to watch the engine swap videos got me started on your channel
Thank you!
Eric you are just like me. "I'm going to hang on to these because one day down the road I might need a part from in here." it just happens that you hang onto it for 6 months finally throw it away and one week later you have a reason to need it. never ever fails
ua-cam.com/video/EdKH2NzzkNs/v-deo.html
Eric, you saved me a ton of headache on guessing what's inside my diff . And what id need to do to get a seal and bearing replaced on my crown Vic. 9:45
Thank you so much for your time to show the DIYers how it's done.
I'm in the process of rebuilding a Ford 8.8 to put under my Mustang. I've watched this video probably 2-3x already and I'm sure I will again before the jobs done. Very helpful for a novice mechanic.
Wish you were near me. I would work for you for free just so I could learn what you know. You are a great mentor and father figure. Keep up the good work Eric.
Thank you for this series. It was the difference between selling my truck to pull a part, & putting it back on the road. I'd have never tried to rebuild a differential without videos like these.
One man can change the world! Your videos are so awesome that I decided to cancel my cable television. No more monthly payments to Time Warner, Dish Network, etc. Thank you, Eric, for a great deal of knowledge and entertainment. I’ve been working on cars for over 30 years, but I learn something from every one of your videos. The fact that you never rush, and that you always explain both the theory and the functioning of the parts thoroughly, really sets you apart.
In the beginning you called it a posi-trac. I was losing my mind trying not to correct you, so I kept watching. You specified the Trac-loc (l/s) and a weight lifted off my shoulders. Thank you for being knowledgable.
hey Eric the car guy. I'm 17 years old and from Indiana. I plan to be like you 1 day. I go to college this year's for automotive. you have helped me soo much!!
Your excitement for this project is palpable, and it makes the videos fun to watch. Your videos feel more upbeat and humorous of late. Keep it up!
Im a jeep guy and this is a very popular swap for XJ/YJ/TJ jeeps. This is the best junkyard 8.8 tear down i have seen yet. way to go ETCG!
Eric, you did a great job on showing all the different tools a person needs to work on the differential and you hit on all the important points of marking the parts so it all goes back together correctly also thanks for showing your work instead of fast fording to the end to save time .... Stay safe and stay dirty !!!!!!
Changing my 2000 ford ranger 4x4 to an FX4. 31 spline from a 28 spline with spartan lockers. Eric you are definitely an excellent teacher thank you.
Eric, you're like the Bob Ross of auto mechanics: your canvas is your workshop and your medium is cars.
I love Bob Ross. R.I.P. I take that as a complement.
Just needs to get the voice down...
"...and right nestled down there is another little shim... we'll paint it ochre"
+Deathlok67 You win! that is the comment of the day.
I was just thinking something along similar lines right before reading this excellent post. Eric inspires me all the time.
I used to always watch him as a kid. He got me painting pretty well. Now I couldn't paint to save my life.
Definitely one of the best videos I’ve seen on the teardown process. I enjoy these videos, Eric.
Sir you are so detailed with your work along with good energy, your videos are very inspiring.
Keep up the great videos Eric.
I watched this nearly a year ago to get to the part about removing the axles. Now I'm back to rebuild the insides. Great content.
*SOOO NICE*- to see you back at your Shop, and back to work on Oliver! Eagerly awaiting more of this series. THANK YOU, ERIC.
It's amazing to see how happy he is in these videos. Probably because he's building his baby finally.
A quick and easy way to remove the e-brake cables from backing plates is to slide a boxed end wrench over the expanded tangs, I think 1/2'' wrench for most. It compresses them all at the same time and the cable pulls right out. Beats fighting them with a screw driver.
Eric, Thank you I've got a 94 Explorer(8.8) with a leaking axle seal that i'll be replacing in the morning. This video was right on time.
@ 3:00 - a small hose clamp slipped over the end of the cable down the backing plate (leave maybe 1/4" gap) easily compresses those tangs enough to just pop right out.
this time on eric the car guy, how to do a pinon reach around on fords rear end
Thanks Eric for putting the Ford 8.8 videos up. A couple years ago I acquired a '93 F150 base model with the tried/true combo of the 300 six, M5OD and 8.8 rear with 3.55 gear set. The previous owner drove it with a totally destroyed rear u-joint. After I went through the truck I noticed that on short runs at highway speed the diff was getting abnormally hot up around the pinion bearing(s). No noise or other symptoms. I'm suspecting that bad u joint trashed at least the outer pinion bearing. Thanks to your helpful videos on teardown and setup (in addition to a factory service manual), I feel confident that I can do a rebuild.
OMG OMG OMG! I have never hit play so fast. I'm actually early for an ETCG video for once! The last time I came this fast, my girlfriend left me. Roll on the rest of the Fairmont videos!
Hahaha. I just want them All. NOWWW!
I use a paint roller. hammer the handle arm flat. spray brake cleaner in tube and push debris to center. clean it out. makes for a great, clean tube assy. Be sure to pack outer wheel bearings with axle grease due to it taking a while to lube. If not you'll burn up outer axle bearing. Great video AS ALWAYS ERIC!!
OOOOOOH! The Fairmont project is starting to get REEEEEALLY GOOD! Chompin' at the bit again... but enjoying the journey as well. THANKS!
Love Eric's video have been subbed and watched for years. Sometimes I forget to thumbs-up them when I watch them but when he made the tractor beam sound and said "amber vision" i scrambled for the thumbs up. Even though without it Eric would have gotten the thumbs up.
Have assisted in building a 12 bolt and a couple 9 inch rears. So interesting to see an 8.8. Didn't know they shared anything with a 12 bolt. Looking forward to the rest of this series. Setting rear ends up was probably the most time consuming/precision thing have ever done on cars, as if not done right, esp on a performance car, it will cost you. Heh wish youtube would have been around then, would have helped alot.
I love the smell of Gear oil. I miss going to school to study this. I loved the power train classes. I can't wait to see how you do what you want.
Thanks for making this video Eric. I'm currently attending a trade school, doing the automotive program at Universal Technical Institute and I'm in manual transmission learning about differentials.
Good luck in school and thanks for your comment!
Great video as usual,you're not a pack rat, your smart, i do the same thing, i have a cardboard box where i have tons of Mustang parts, springs, screws,levers, brackets, you name it,even light bulbs,those parts have come in handy more than once specially now these cars and their family like your Fairmont are getting scarce.
He's chill like that, definitely earned a follow off chillness
Just watched this for the third time, getting ready for my tear down on my ‘86 Mustang 5.0. Wish me luck!
Nice attention to detail,it really made your video stand out.
A little late now but I use a box end wrench to remove brake cables from the backing plate. I forgot what size worked best but with the right size it can be removed very quickly.
Watched you last night and today I pulled my very first diff apart. Keys were missing but I got really lucky and when I pulled the cover off the pin retainer screw was right there and I didn't have to remove the drive shaft. I was just going for the carrier to swap my ring gear onto but you gave us everything
Hey Eric,I wanted to say I use a box end wrench to take them type of parking brake cables off. I just slide the one that fits over it down, and it pulls the tabs in and you can just slide the cable off, that is if your gong to reuse them.
I replaced an axle on a 2000 E150 - sans limited slip! - purty much like this.
The air hammer/chisel is pretty much the tool 'o' the century!
Nice vid!
Eric, noticed you when you were pressing out that pinion bearing, that the support blocks you pressed from were on the bolt heads of the bearing puller, instead of parallel with the bolts. Naughty.
You're doing it wrong!!! Yea, I get that all the time.
Still enjoy watching these videos, especially this diff. rebuild, because guess what I'm doing next year! Love your work.
A few years ago my outer pinion bearing in my 01 Durango's rear axle, it howled all the way home. I helped my dad replace the pinion and carrier bearings at home ourselves, because a shop would have charged about 700 to do it, , but a good quality set of bearings only cost $100. Its a Chrysler 9.25 with 3.55:1 gears. The pinion was a little smaller than that, but it was still fairly large and very heavy.
I am really liking the direction of this build mostly because I love old Ford cars and trucks, also I like a good sleeper. I'll bet it's going to be fun on the street with 5 speed
I've used a 9/16 or 1/2 inch boxed end wrench to compress the tabs on the Parking brake cable retainer. That works quickly. Slide the wrench over the cable and it compresses the tabs.
Great video Eric, nice too see you so happy working on something again. Looking forward to the rest of the fairmont vids.
Axles tubes on the 8.8" Fords are actually not welded on. It's a good idea to weld and paint them if you are running higher HP. ;)Can be done on vehicle. Also good idea to weld torque boxes and add reinforcement plates. You can add a hose on the breather vent. If you use a in-line fuel filter and hose clamp, nothing will get down into the rear end. I think we used VW style plastic fuel filters. Forgot what size hose...
I did similar work 12 years ago on my dif. while hanging in the car. the top bushings were a pain in the butt to get out even with the air hammer.
Air hammer On bushings,on some i use a drill bit and drill around it. it relieves it and easily knocks out. Use a ball joint press to reinstall.
Another great video! Like the rest of us, you certainly are happier working on a project that has nothing to do with work. I really enjoyed this one...
Great video Eric that air hammer sure saved you some sweat and blue language there.
Those wheel bearings can be tough - I nearly pulled my truck sideways off the jack stands doing that job once. If you can't get the bearing out just cut it with a die grinder to release the bite and it will slide right out. Its always good practice to mark the caps - every axle I've happened to take apart has always had letters on each cap and on each sealing surface of the diff.
Finally Fairmont videos :D The long awaited chapter begins :D
I'm really looking forward to the rest of these 8.8 videos. I have two 8.8 axles that need to be rebuilt. These videos will help me decide if I should take them to the axle shop to get them done or if I should invest in the tools to do them myself.
i like watching these videos. they teach me something everyday.
Oh man this was a great video! I don't know much about differential rebuilding so I definitely learned something. Looking forward to the subsequent videos!
Someone may have mentioned this before, but the damage on the crush sleeve was from the fragment pieces you found inside the case. You could see them near the sleeve location when the pinion bearing races were being hammered out. Sorry if this was a repeat comment. Love to watch you work, Eric... hate to have to do the same thing myself as a follow up.
Thanks for another great video! On getting the smell of dif oil out of your skin, I use 50/50 pine sol/water then dish soap. Seems to do a pretty good job!
new Fairmont video, my Friday just got better.
Ive been there and had to reuse the crush sleeve too . put an old long socket or pipe the right size and work your way around with a hammer. Its not good practice to do this, but when suppliers don't you just have too on occasion.
You seem just a bit giddy doing this.
Honestly, I've seen some of this before, but this was a very comprehensive and well-shot video. Thank you.
I would have probably put the spare parts up for sale on ebay or craigs list...never know some might need them.....or save them for a budget build. That's just me....how ever so happy to see the fairmont build.
I also have a Mustang sitting in the garage. ;)
oh yeah the stang....forgot about it.
Using a 3-4 stone hone to enlarge the bore of the pinion bearing is much easier keeps the bore centered and provides a more accurate fit and setup.
It does not take much material removal to get the bearing to easily slip over the pinion without requiring a press, but the bore needs to remain centered and perpendicular with the bearing face.
Take care, avoid making the bore tapered, not round, not centered, not square or too large.
Be sure to thoroughly and completely clean the modified bearing and race, then lightly lubricate with a light lubricant such as WD-40 or ATF before using.
Do not use the modified bearing for the final assembly, it will result in bearing and gear failure.
Using the old rear pinion bearing as a setup tool is only possible if the old bearing is identical to the new bearing, the old bearing must be in good condition, not worn and not damaged.
If necessary, purchase 2 new pinion bearings and modify only 1 to use for trial fit setups.
Be sure to mark the modified bearing to avoid mix-ups and using the modified bearing in a final assembly.
Pinion bearings (rear) are almost always a press fit, if a rear pinion bearing is a slip fit on the pinion shaft check it for modifications.
Lubricate the marked modified bearing to prevent corrosion and save in the original bearing package and paper wrap, this will help prevent corrosion, it is now a tool for future setups/installations.
If you are reusing the existing pinion and or pinion bearings do not drive the pinion out of the housing with a hammer.
The impact on the bearings damages them and possibly damages the pinion threads, instead use a simple 2-3-4 jaw puller to separate the flange from the pinion shaft.
Best wishes with your projects.
you were positively giddy in this video. nice to see :)
Also, they make a shim kit to replace the crush sleeve on the pinion. AM and LMR sell them.
I'm not sure if you've ever tried them but I just started using panther grip gloves. They are incredible. Super strong and extremely comfortable. I noticed you are wearing just the normal white ones. If you haven't tried them before they really are worth a look. I haven't ripped a glove yet.
Trick for you Eric use the box end of a 13mm or 1/2 inch wrench to compress the spring retaining clips of the parking brake cables and they will pull right out of the backing plate
Eric, a tip for the brake cables. use a 1/2" or 13 mm box end wrench and slip it over the cable, driving it down over the cable retaining tangs. Found it very helpful when dealing with brake cables. use an older wrench.
Great tip, thanks!
You seemed much happier than normal in this video. Must be working towards your end goal of the high preformance "sleeper" has you smiling more!
I've found I like building things more than I like fixing things lately. ua-cam.com/video/lFhCSxFdkT0/v-deo.html
+EricTheCarGuy Building things is spending money, fixing things is making money, for me I like spending more than making! lol
You are a born teacher. Superb detail. Thank you!
The secret is not in the screwdriver, the secret is fitting the appropriate sized ring spanner over it to compress the clips. Best way to do it.
Scary the small parts that ultimately hold the car together...
*ONE* Connecting Rod nut loose= dead engine. *ONE* axle C-Clip (RWD) and assembly flies off. One *tiny* blood vessel in your brain... Same thing.
+HUBBABUBBA DOOPYDOOP true
I use a puller like OTC 7494A. Much smoother extraction. A common rental tool for the occasional axle bearing.
Hi, just replaced all the bearings in my Lincoln Town Car that uses the same differential. Your video was great advice so I knew what was coming and what to look out for. It went smooth but I did it with the differential in the car and only jack stands, no lift. It was no fun but doable. Had to improvise regarding the preload on the pinion bearings since I have no lb/in or cNm torque measurement tool and they are about 300$+ overhere. I worked with a thin and light wooden bar and weights and did some math.
Also, no press but heating the bearing to 200F in water and freezing the pinion gear and carrier in the freezer was enough to let the bearings glide on with no effort. Physics and math can sometimes replace expensive tools! The differential works absolutely fine now and I was abel to do it on a weekend. Best regards from Germany.
I see a future Pull-A-Part video coming. LOL. JK Eric. I'm one of the few that liked those videos...
Hope you do a IFS front axle next off an F-150. Straight axles aren't much of a challenge unless you are working in the snow in your driveway! Like the idea of changing the rear drums to discs too.
hey Eric, another quick way to remove those parking brake cables is to use a hose clamp. slip it over the cable to the retaining fingers, tighten the clamp just enough to slip the cable thru.
Yes! That's a great method. Wish I would have thought of that during the video.
I like the hose clamp idea.
Those strange looking Hose Pliers #37909 from Harbor freight work really well.
Thanks for the heads up on those bearing caps!
Hi, I have a very strange clunking somewhere in my driveline that only happens after it has been driven for a while to warm up and it only happens at very very slow speed, even less then walking speed but it is a savage clunk that goes right through the truck. It is a 2001 Ford Explorer Sport Trac 4x4. I have checked the uni's and they are all good. Thanks.
Damn. Not sure how but you're always working on exactly what I am when I'm doing it. I had my Outback that's when I found and subbed your channel and learned everything I needed for that. Now I have a Ford with an 8.8 that needs rebuilt look today and here you are rebuilding one. Hahaha
In your video about progress on the Fairmont you stated that you had shot more than 60 videos at that point on the car. I hope these video come out more than once a week, or we're all going to be a lot older when this is done LOL. Love your videos!
Some will.
The only differential I have first-hand experience with is the Ford 9" out of my '68 Galaxie... That is *very* different than this one. I can see why people prefer the 9" -- the whole gear-set just pops in and out with about a tenth of the work you had to do there to get those gears out.
Yea, the 9" is easier to work on and easier to set up. This one still works great though.
Why diff has that weight?
Torque counter balance
HUBBABUBBA DOOPYDOOP
Wow, thats poor construction... Even Russian Ladas don't need this :O
It's a tuned damper. It stops the axle, bushing "system" vibrating when the rotational frequency of the propshaft matches the resonant frequency of the axle and bushings. It's a bodge, low unsprung weight is good, large lumps of metal bolted to the axle, not so good.
I don't know if this was said in the comments before me or not but its actually pretty easy to make a parking brake wire removal tool. I made one for my 8.8 swap into my wrangler and it worked on both the ford and jeep parking brakes. I just took a small 12-16in piece of thin wall 3/8 inner diameter tubing if i remember correctly and tightened it in the vise so it crushed flat about half way down the tube then I ran a large easy out tool into the end of the pipe so it expanded it and gave it a taper. after that i just bent the pipe in half where the crease was from the vice and used the bottom of it as a handle so you can wiggle it back and fourth and move it around until you catch all of the keepers and pull on the cable on the other side and it should pop right out
Good old "80-90 Stink"! I agree I hate that smell too!
Just wanted you to know that I learned a couple of things. I learned how to use my brake spring tool! I've done my fair share of drum brake jobs too. I haven't see the offset box end wrenches like you used. Thanks!
That thing your calling a "weight" is actually a harmonic balancer for the rear end. Helps with vibration.
thank you Eric but I have disc brakes and posi..I cant get the C clip out. the spring is in the way. axle doesn't move much
Eric looked you up on Social blade and they recon September 2017 you'll hit one million subscribers, congratulations.
That would be cool.
EricTheCarGuy Rooting for you!!
This humor of yours, I really love it!
Most comprehensive video I've found thank you
Amazing how much harder it is to pull axle bearings with oil seals in.
you can use ajax dish washing liquid and a product we have here in TN called "greased lightnin " . it removes everything including the smell
Great and enjoyable disassembly as always. Looking forward for the next parts.
Just a suggestion, but a way to help with the pack rat problem is boxes. I know it sounds stupid, but when doing something like a tear down of a diff like what you did here, putting the parts from one side into a small box just big enough to fit them and labeling the box with whats inside can help.
If you have a box for each side with a label sitting on a shelf somewhere, eventually you'll either use them or need the space. In that case you can throw the box away without opening it so you don't have as much of that "I might need this" problem down the road. If you can't see the parts, you're less likely to hesitate about it.
That's how it's worked for me in the past anyway.
Great suggestion, thanks.
4 lugs and drums, you could probably use it for a trailer. just wire up solenoids and weaker springs to activate the drums.
awesome. cant wait to see the paint video and the assembly. I hope you are going with a Detroit trutrack :)
Using appropriate tools makes a job easy,i really like air hammer....
put a box wrench over the clip that holds the e-brake cable on. if it is the right size it will release the clips and help push it out
MrMrsregor second this
See a few differences between this and the 8.8 in my Ranger. (5 bolt vs 4. Vent on left vs right. Brake line splitter bolted to top, not bottom, etc...) Still close enough to make a good tutorial if I ever need to tear mine down. Adding it to my favorites playlist.
Determine whether your rear end is posi Trac or open-ended spindle Wheels Anna left side forward and the right side wheel will turn in reverse that is an open-ended rear end if both Wheels turn in the same direction that is a close rear end is a posi track or equal lock or whatever it's an easy way to determine whether it has it or not
Working on input shaft on my 8.8 1997 mercury mountiner awd 5.0 input shaft bearing burnt up no juice in it for years
great video eric, definitely a nice break from these pull a part videos, lol. keep up the good work man!
Yay, back to normal content!