P2646 Honda Accord ,VTC strainer, Cleaning The Screens
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- Опубліковано 21 сер 2024
- P2646 Honda Accord ,VTC strainer. This Honda would not run at higher speeds. It would start bucking and stall out if held to the floor. After a bit of cleaning it seems to run fine. Do not try just removing the screens. If you try to run a Honda with out the VTC strainer any dirt that the screen would of caught will now go in to the little oil passages and be hard to remove. I am also Leary of trying to add cleaners to the engine when experiencing VTC Strainer problems.If the debris stuck in the VTC Strainer bad enough to set a P2646 code then I would be afraid the debris would break down smaller ,get through the VTC strainer just to get caught up in the valve train oil passages.
car repair, wtbm123
Honda
just fixed my daughter's 2003 accord. i just replaced the entire VVT solenoid. the RPM now rev as normal & shifting while driving is once again smooth. thanks!
Thanks for watching and commenting
How do I locate the Vtec Solenoid? I own exactly the same car and it drags during acceleration. I would appreciate a feedback.
Andre Jenkins if you have the 2,0 liter accord or like k20a6 or k20z2 engine you do not have vtec solenoid neither vtec in gereral or 3 lobe camshafts, i sold my 2,0 l accord for that reason and i own a 2,4 now with vtec
Only place I could find info on VTC strainer. This guy knows what he is doing not just trying to be movie star
Thanks
Great video. My shop spends major money every month to have access to repair info from both Alldata and Mitchell. You provided info I couldn't find on either of those.
Thank you for watching and commenting
I was thinking the same thing! I hadn't seen this info anywhere else. And I used to use all data all the time!
I couldn't get this information from the Honda Parts website. Thank you for sharing.
Thanks for posting this video, getting the bolts off the tensioner was the most difficult part but was a fun and easy fix overall 👍🏼
Glad it helped
For self filming you do a great job. And thanks for the lack of background music. Very precise and to the point video. Now to tackle a valve timing sprocket on my 2009 Accord. Rattles like crazy upon cold starts.
Thanks for stopping by
Thanks for the video. Remove the manifold heat shield (three screws) and you would have fantastic access to the VTEC solenoid. Get a reflection mirror and you can see everything there...
Thanks for stopping by and commenting
This is why I ❤ youtube. Just bought an 05 accord. Noticed spool valve was new, noticed vtt solenoid and pre filter square thing are original. Got vvt solenoid replaced and this weekend I tackle the pre filter screen mesh. Here’s to 200k more miles!
Nice work!
Update 5/19/22 some dingdong wirespliced the oil pressure switch two lead pigtail connector and used inferior crimp connectors / herkajerked the wires from the pin out of the clip. I bypassed the signal wire and put it to body ground, got voltage too high error code, connected it back normal and got the original low voltage error code. Cut out all the Mickey Mouse wire splices and used fresh wire. I think the female connector has been compromised but for now I can zoom zoom and overtake slow pokes!
@@winnabego Thank you for sharing . That info could be of great help to others
@@winnabegoso replace wires to spool valve and vvt solenoid? Plus the one sensor to the oil pressure switch nd down to the crankcase?
@@anthonyfeehan7393 oh man did I ever luck out. Some yahoo spliced a new pigtail for the spool valve and had the leads backwards. Switched them around and I’m now at 220k!
Thank you. I try to treat everyone right. And i try to take pictures along the way so if i need to explain anything to them.
Thanks for making this video, had the same issue with my buddies crv, I did the same as you showed in the video, it worked, i asked him after it was done when was his last oil change he chuckled said like 2 years, thanks for sharing a video, helped me out, thank you
Glad it helped , Thanks for watching and commenting
I had the exact same problem with my 2004 CR-V. However, i took the easy way out and it worked perfect. I changed the oil, replaced the oil filter, added 5 oz of Seafoam. This did the trick and stopped the bucking.
Thanks for watching
People already said but yeah, good video to the point...I love the amateur video quality in terms of the guy is holding the camera while wrenching on the car literally,... one handed shakey but still on the target... and good before during and after shots... not too long or chatty...
Thanks
I wanted to say thank you for this video, it helped take 1 of 3 guesses away I always change my oil every 3k miles on the dot so when it did this I cleaned all screens, oil was not the problem and for anyone else it is most likely your oil pressure switch that has failed if doing the other 2 things
Great to hear!
I didn't saw any engine check lights but still had these 2 filters replaced and the car is running much better now :) I had no idea these kind of filters existed.
Glad it is up and running good again , thanks for stopping by
Thanks for taking the time to make and post this video. My husband used this information on a Honda CR-V and it fixed the problem. He had a 2646 code and it was bucking really bad. No codes now and it's running really smooth. I'm sure it saved us a big mechanics bill!
+blessedwith12 Glad it helped
blessedwith12 Did u just clean the screen or replace the solenoid?
@@blessedchild4690 im replacing the solenoid tomorrow and will be cleaning both screens in my acura rl. I will lyk how it goes tomorrow.
@@givenchyoverall how did it go
had the same issue car runs like new now I just to off a battery terminal to reset the computer light never cam back on even after 500 miles great video worked for me thx agen
Glad you got it fixed, and thanks for commenting.
Great video, lots of good info. One thing I have heard though is you don't typically want to use brake cleaner on rubber gaskets. It can degrade the material. But hey she either holds or leaks.
Thanks for the info!
(Variable Timing Control) , VTC Strainer, should be the screens. Or sometimes called strainer assembly. Lots of them can just be cleaned.Thanks for watching
Great video. I have a 2006 CRV. To get the bottom bolt in the tensioner off you have to remove the pulley from the tensioner arm. That way you can get a socket wrench in there quite easily. The whole job for both screens took me 2 1/2 hours
Thanks for watching and commenting
Yea it tried hard to keep my socket. Thanks for watching.
I was not aware of the second oil screen on the front of the engine even after watching many other video's. That's very good information. I just bought a 2005 Honda Element with the 2.4ltr engine with 148,000 miles with of course no warranty and 20 miles later it started shuttering and the engine light came on. Error codes P2646 and P2647 came up. Found out it was a quart low on oil, but it had clean oil in it. Added one quart this morning and 13 miles later on my way to work it was shuttering more often and had no power for about 5 - 10 seconds if I gave it a lot of throttle. I bought new oil and filter and a new EVTS assembly. Going to replace everything tomorrow night after work weather permitting. Me being a retired motorcycle technician "mostly Japanese brands" and machinist, most external 6mm bolts are torqued to 6 - 7 ft. lbs. And are a grade 4 - 8.
Hope you got it all sorted out .
@@wtbm123 If it would stop raining I can get it done.
Hey man, any updates?
@@anthonyfeehan7393 Two days after I added one quart of oil it's been running okay and the engine light went off. I've been wanting to change the oil and filter and replace the vvt parts and screen, but it's either raining or has been in the mid 90°'s with a feels like temp as high as 108° and way too hot for me.
Just a small tip for the VTEC solenoid: the gasket is well known that it breaks/leaks after some while (mine was already leaking at 70.000 miles). It costs like nothing, just replace it.
Yea who would ever think a little screen could cause one to run so bad. It is because of all the little oil passages needed for the variable valve timing. Thanks for watching
Thanks for the video, I had no idea about that little screen behind the idler pulley. I did everything else first and nothing worked, but cleaning the screen out with brake cleaner did the trick.
Glad it helped
Thats what I have to do I did everything but that
@@tremilford4090 did it work for you?
great vid. something I found out in my experience is if it starts cutting out at 3k rpm check the oil level. I didn't know i had a leak and that was my first symptom. At 3k rpm it would cut out and be unresponsive to the gas pedal until i shifted into neutral and back in to drive. I'm here cause i get a check engine light randomly and it bucks a bit under load at higher rpm so i think i need to clean that screen.
Any update? 4 years ago…
Yes the screens are a good thing. It has variable valve timing.Oil pressure at higher speeds lock another set of rockers to the low speed ones.Kinda like having the best of both worlds as it kinda runs on two different grinds of cam. It would be harder to clean out the oil passages than the screens.
Very helpful video. Thank you, saved me a bunch of trouble with the local mechanics.
Thanks for watching and commenting
Great job, i have a similar problem with my 06 accord, very helpful.
Looked like it was in limp mode at the beginning. Glad you got it sorted out. I prime all my oil filters too, I also lube my gasket. I think the blinking odometer is a reminder to change the oil that can be reset. That also might get the check engine light to go off.
Great video, although it doesn't really show the effort involved with getting to the VTC strainer. Depending on the year, you have a very tight space to work with when unbolting and relocating the power steering pump and removing the belt tensioner. In order to get access to the bottom bolt of the tensioner on a 2006 CRV, you must remove the motor mount bracket. Count on lots of sockets and other tools falling down in the process. It's worth the effort, but take your time and don't get too frustrated.
Thanks for watching and commenting
I have had the P2646 code twice. Both times, It was the day after a very hard day long rain, and I also had not driven it the day it was raining. Both times, I drove it for a couple miles the day after the rain, stopped at a store, started it back up and pulled out only to get the code and limp mode. I think I need to check the wiring.
Good call... my 2006 CRV had same Light and code.... oil , filter and both screens changed... problem gone....cheers
thanks for the upload. I had exactly the same ODB codes and symptoms on my 2003 honda accord 2.0 i-vtec (k series) basically ivtec requires clean oil. i had the engine flushed with stp and had the spark plugs / oil / oil filter and air filter changed. problem solved :) car drives like new
I changed my solenoid on my 2005 element it ran great for 2 weeks but it is still doing the same thing described in your video.
It may be that the inside of engine is not clean and particals are getting in . But could be other things too. Hope you get it sorted out.
@@wtbm123 thanks for the response will check it out per the video
I guess you probably figured it out by now but there is a problem clearing that code. Sometimes you have to clear it 3 or 4 times to get rid of it. Good video. Thanks
Thanks for the info!
Hey, thanks a bunch for this. I used your video a year or so ago then came back to it again when the issue popped back up. Cleaning the screen is easier than changing the oil! (Which I obviously don't spend much time doing, lol!)
Wow, you've got to be kidding.
Bro doesn’t change his oil but will clean the oil screens😂😂
If not leaking much just make a mess, I would fix the leak it is not that bad of a job. Thanks for watching
Not sure with out looking, but It may need a upstream O2 Sensor. If you can get it hooked to a scanner that has live data you could see if the O2 sensor is working. Most car part places only read you the codes and no live data. Before replacing parts it is a good idea to test them first, a O2 code does not make it a bad sensor all the time..
I just replaced mine. The code means “rocker arm stuck open or close” I took out the solenoid in 20 minutes. Bought a $20 gasket with screen. Once I got the solenoid out, the rocker arm was indeed stuck. The oil pressure sensor switch did its job correctly. The rocker arm was gummed up due to going to long between oil changes. Moral of the story, change your oil when due. I was able to fix mine for $20.00. 2007 Honda Odyssey.
Thanks for watching
I think a lot of these get fixed when swapping out parts simply because they pulled off the wire connectors and re-seated them making a good connection.
If this is the problem you should get a check engine light. Should be a cam code. The oil passages are very small up in the rockers ,maybe one of them are plugged. Wondering if locking pin for rockers is moving freely.
Ive been fighting with this code for the better part of a year. Ive changed the vtec solenoid entirely, changed the oil, changed the filter, changed the VVT solenoid, cleaned the oil pressure switch below the vtec. The only thing i haven't done is the screen behind the tensioner pully because theres no way to get to it without removing the power steering pump and tensioner pully. Dam. Code just will not go away
It would be worth trying the screen , but may end up needing it on a scanner to see live data to see where the problem is . It is not always the screens , but i mostly made the video to bring awareness that they are there. Hope you get yours all sorted . When you find the issue , could you please , comment of what you found . It may help another figure out their issue someday.
Yes I un plunged the battery. Thanks for watching
Thanks for posting this video! I changed the solenoid Gasket, cleared the codes and it runs great.
Thanks for watching and commenting
I changed both and my vtec kicks in way better now eve with 175,000 miles
Glad you got it sorted out
Wt123. Thanks for your response. I am at firestone and they checked the new switch with their scanner and the voltage going across the switch was incorrect so the part from honda was bad. They are replacing it with anew one free of charge. Also, he thinks he got an older version of the part since there are 2 part numbers for the same switch so there may have been some kind of inherent defect in the old part number. Anyway, we will see. He is giving me a one year parts and labor warranty so if it happens again, he will go the screen route which I suggested May be causing the part to fail. He knew exactly what I was referring to when I mentioned the screens since he has much personal experience with Hondas and has rebuild honda engines. Thanks again for ur comment and happy new year.
Sounds like they are going to take care of it for u so that is good . Glad to see them take care of it .
Had the same problem with my 2005 CRV. As the vehicle ages the screen cleanings are becoming more frequent. Strange thing is why there is a screen on that part in the first place. Well we know why because we have to keep cleaning the filter but the regular engine oil filter should not allow this crud to pass to the VTEC controller. Odd to say the least. I fell sorry for people who have taken their vehicles to dealers only to be hosed for unnecessary parts. I read more then one post one dealers changing out ABS modulators at a cost of $2,000. Criminal crooks dealerships are.
Had the same problem. Was a little intermittent would you at one day not the next. Then a few days ago, didn't matter every time I start the car 2000 RPM bog down wouldn't run consistent issue. Code scanner identify the same code. I've got 310,000 miles. The car runs great but it uses oil. I'm usually down about a quart every couple of tanks. Oil was overdue for a change. But I don't worry too much about because I add enough oil over time. And I do use high quality oil filters. Anyway, it started doing this I hooked up the code scanner verified the code, I actually put a quart of seafoam in the crankcase as I normally do before an oil change after about 10 minutes, the problem went away. I am not saying that seafoam cured the issue. All I'm saying is This lends itself to the fact that if you let your oil accumulate a lot of dirt and sludge that it contributes to this error code and fault. Adding seafoam, I believe just cleaned up the screens in the censors enough to solve the issue temporarily.
Anyway I ran to seafoam for about 40 miles took the car oil drop the oil, drop the power steering pump and the tensioner. Hold the first screen it did have some junk in there that I cleaned out I pulled the VVT sensor off the back side I cleaned it out I put it all back together fresh oil phresh filter, I've been running it now another thousand miles no issue.
Thanks for watching and commenting
Nice!! Thanks for this video. I have the same codes and the same symptoms. Ill do just that.
2008 Honda Element, this fixed the issue! Thanks for posting!
Thanks for watching and commenting
My 2005 CRV did/does the same thing. I haven't taken it anywhere yet for the screen cleaning, but a fresh oil change does seem to fix it temporarily. It tends to do this when I am close to 5,000 miles. Your video looks like it is in or near WV.
Thanks for stopping by. yes near wv
Thanks for posting this video. U fixed my car .
Glad it helped and thanks for commenting
I have an 2005 Accord. 4 cylinder and I had all the symptoms that u mentioned. It started with getting a head gasket replaced. The day I picked it up it started jerking when I accelerated. Took it back to the shop the same day. Cleaned filters and picked it up the next day. Same results. This is now my 4th time taking it back to the shop. Frustrating...
Phil Deez did you ever figure out what the issue is, I have the same car and I’m having the same issue
@@yourmommades_ need a new engine
Great video Terry, good practice with the pre-oil filter and gasket lube :)
There's nothing like a Honda that eats your sockets....lol
Thanx for sharin buddy
Very helpful, mine 2004 accord did that uphill today, thanks
Good video but why didnt you change out the oil pressure switch while the solenoid was out? Thanks for showing the two different screens. Very important
Parts were not available that day , or i might of changed some stuff . If you can get the parts while doing it , it would not hurt
I also had the same problem with my honda accord 2005 code p2647. Check engine light on, bogs at 3000rpm. Went shopping on ebay for vtec solenoid $87, way cheaper then honda dealer. I waited for 3 days for the part to arrived. i replaced by removing three sizes 10 screws behind the engine. Now, check engine light never came back on, car runs good....
My 03 Element was doing this EXACT same thing and same code, I thought my transmission was slipping or about to go out. Is there any way 'Seafoam' might clean this gunk out by putting it into the oil with a fresh oil change?
THANK YOU! I'm going to read up for their N check the comments for any updates, but honestly, everyone talks about this but never documents where any of these things are. I'm a 22re and other Toyota Motor guy, and on a road trip out to my mother's 65 year high school reunion, it started to bug out on the hill. I managed to clear the codes and got it to the hotel, but I don't want to chance heading back over all the hills from Laughlin to Los Angeles, without repairing this. As far as you know, would the 2003 motor be the same? I know that she had the oil pressure sending switch( the one in the video, and I'm hoping to clean the screen) replaced a couple years ago... But the code that it kept getting before was the VTEC solenoid code.
Thank you. Happy Birthday Darrin.
Thank you, thank you , thank you!
Solved my 07 accord problem as well.
Glad it helped
I only need to change the oil n filter now,as I got all cleaned up n new vtech solenoid too,but still surging at 2800 rpm
Maybe more debri stuck in there someplace . May need a diagnostic scanner to see if can find anything . Could even be a internal mechanical problem . Hope you get it all sorted out
Yes the flashing odometer and the yellow wrench is for oil change. That was not reset yet in the video..
Awesome video, the sort of info that will save folks 000's or even 0000's on repair costs. I've been out of it too long! did not know about screens being there, I suppose tolerances are so fine on motors now they need back ups like that right?
Scott
We just bought an 04 Honda Cr-v a few weeks ago, had to buy a new battery a few days ago, then this same situation occurred. The dealer has offered to split cost of repair which is most appreciated. We have a 1997 with over 600,000 miles on it and already I feel like we should have searched longer to find one of the older models like ours to purchase. Gas mileage was better on the older one too. Anyway, we are in the Akron Canton area, and would love to have another mechanic contact to help keep this 04 going. If you are in that area and wish to message me with your email or cell# it would be much appreciated. Thanks!
Thanks 4 the video 🤟
No problem 👍
great video broski thanks !
some oil related codes wont clear with the engine running =p
Yea on some they are so dirty inside that stuff just keeps getting plugged up .
@@wtbm123 i've got two crv's and did this on one about a year ago and now the other one needs it. at least it's nice and cold out.... nice work ! happy new year
@@roccocroce Happy New Year to you also.
Well I'm glad this video came up when I googled common oil leaks on a 2002 crv. That first thing is what i have spraying oil out of. Looks like I'll change both of these filters out while I'm working on this stupid thing lol
Thanks for stopping by and commenting
maintenance goes along way!
Sure does
I replaced my VVT solenoid and started having the injector kill symptoms. Thanks for the video, that should get me going. Never knew about the screen behind PS pump
Update: I pulled the second screen under ps pump and was clean. I had replaced my VVT solenoid due to leakage, even after new gasket. No codes or symptoms. I tried two different solenoid assemblies and kept having issues. I got so frustrated that I put my original one back on, and everything went back to normal. I ordered new gasket set(both screens) and it comes with a new spool valve oring. 10$ off Amazon. If that doesn't work I'm going to order an oe assembly from Honda.
Thanks for stopping by
My self I would clean the screens. The screens are there so nothing gets up in the small passages of the valve train.If Seafoam was to break some of it up and it gets past the screens it may be costly. And how much more stuff in the engine may end up there after something like that.
god damn, i was trying to get the tension pulley off with the nut on the pulley.
great vid man, lots of details!
Thank You for watching and commenting.
May have some bits of carbon up in valve train. Hope you get it sorted.
How did u clean the second screen? The same process like the first one?
yes
Great video. By chance, were you about to drive on Hwy 119? Looks like you're here in Alabama
No , a long way from there . Thanks for stopping in and saying hello
Thanks for your video, it was a big help. Instead of taking everything apart and cleaning the screens etc from the outside, I used motor medics engine flush before changing the oil and added Marvels Mystery oil to the oil change. The car stopped bucking and the engine light went off after 2 hrs of driving.
Thanks for the Motor Medics & Marvels Mystery Oil tip. Worked for me!
How on earth did you get to the bottom bolt of the tensioner without taking the pulley off of it?
Thank you for your video.
I do not remember now what i used , Sorry .
What a PIA-- and all those filters-- wonder if they are really that necessary (I know filtering is necessary, but can't the primary oil filter get that stuff? Why do they need filters right there?)
It seems like electronics report on some problems, yes, but then the rest of the codes are for defective / overwhelmed sensors.
True-- I just get cynical sometimes about all the electronics...I shouldn't discount the benefits of "best of both worlds"...
hanks for taking the time to expalin that to me, Terry
I stripped the bolt any ideas on how to take it off?
Easy out socket , some call it turbo sockets , i have a video on them
Thanks 🙏🏼
Great Video, I am doing this in the morning. I see your from WV as well.
I am, in Ohio . Thanks for watching and commenting.
@@wtbm123 where in Ohio are you close to galion.Ohio
Keep using the cheapest oil filter and you are gonna learn how to clean all the filters and strainers 😄
Thanks for watching and commenting
Haha, funny as hell
this has nothing to do with using the cheapest filter
Good point however more likely a failed oil filter. We did both ours (due to an oil leak) and at 260k they were still clean.
BTW way Hitler, stop spreading hate killing Jews blacks etc... your not helping...
So my question is! All these particles are clogging the screens but what's causing it to clog? Cheap oil filters like fram??
Usually starts with lack of maintenance. lacking oil changes is prob a main cause
thanks you are the best! I will try repairing my 2004 honda civic and Ill let you know.
+Anthony Romero Hope all goes well
Wtbm123 thanks again. It worked thanks to you
Looks like your up around Franklin, North Carolina on those mountain roads.
Ohio ,thanks for watching and commenting
good luck with the adjuster, getting one of the two bottom bolts to come off is a bitch...idk about the 06 model but on my 07 i have to take the engine mount off to get to it.
Bullshit. You don't need to take the mount off
Thank you for the video!
Glad it was helpful!
nice video and fix a family member have same vehicle whit same problem goin to start in this thank you.
Thanks for watching, hope you get it fixed up.
Hi , can you advise how to locate the VTC STRAINER on my 2011 honda civic please? Engine light keeps coming on with code P2646. It has the same symptons prevously described (not running at higher speeds, bucking and stalling)
Thanks for the video 👍
I have a 2007 RDX Turbo, where exactly is the solenoid assembly located?
I can’t seem to locate it.
Did it stop doing it? Ours comes and goes. Check eng goes off too. I had code last fall for O2 sensor and Cat convert.
Sometimes it is the solenoid
Hello everybody, I have a 2006 Honda Accord EX 2.4L K24A8 engine(I4) and its perfect condition, well maintained from me and the past original owner. The issue I’m having is that when I want to accelerate it feels like it doesn’t and I see my RPM struggling to past 3000. I can get to 65 on the freeway but it takes a while. The transmission feels smooth and shifts fine. I have clean my mass airflow sensor, bought a new throttle body and EGR valve, sparks plug are new, new air filter and new starter but I still have the problem. Any clue what could be?
Maybe the screens are dirty or the solenoid valve thing is bad
wtbm123 Are you talking about the Strainer Assy-VTC that’s in front of the engine and close to the power steering like you show in the video?
Yeah I heard the VTEC solenoid and the VTC oil control can failed out. But I also heard there’s other thing that can cause that like the accelerator position sensor.
I did replaced that strainer on my crv 👍!
Thanks for watching and commenting
I think all those engine/transmission gaskets are made out of silicone or special polymer to withstand the petroleum in the engine oil and transmission fluid....
Yes , And thanks for stopping by and commenting
@@wtbm123 No problem. Have a good day bro.
@ 207 you have the power steering pump off. Maybe you should have shown us what bolts you removed
Sorry
Damn that car has more lights on than a Christmas tree..
Yep , lol
Mustang 1 :D No seas mamón!
I just had this happen on an element today. How long did the fix last? Did you have to do it again?
Awesome video, thanks for helping people!
Depends on the condition of the engine inside . If a lot of cruddy oil build up , and it keeps getting in to oil it may plug the screen again
did the light go out my car doing the same thing my 04 honda accord ex so should i replace both parts or clean them out
How long are the bolts for the first screen? I think you can take that off without taking power steering and tensioner off🤔
Sorry but do not remember how long the bolts are .
=/ i just got this same light that goes on and off... looks simple enough thanks to your tutorial.
It is not to bad of a job. Thanks for watching and commenting