Very informative video with detailed information. I just bought a 2005 Honda Element with 148,000 miles and twenty five miles later the engine started surging and the check engine light came on. I drove one mile to an Advance Auto Parts and their scanner showed codes P2646 "low oil pressure" and P2647 "high oil pressure". I've seen atleast ten video's on UA-cam about this and a couple said low oil level or high oil level can cause this. I can see the low oil level causing this only if the oil level is so low that the oil pump is drawing air. Low oil pressure could also he from oil passage almost completely clogged or either or both screens are clogged. Having too much oil will not increase the oil pressure because the oil pump controls the pressure. If the oil pressure from the oil pump to the oil pressure switch increases it would be from the oil passage being partially clogged due to sludge in the oil or other foreign material. Just like when you pinch the end of a garden hose it creates more pressure, spraying the water further. I checked my oil level and it was one quart low. I added one quart and I believe three days later the check engine light went off and it's ran fine ever since and it's been two weeks. I bought the new aftermarket VVT assembly and an O.E.M. oil filter from Autozone, an aftermarket o-ring and screen gasket for the other side of the engine from Advance Auto Parts and mobil 1 5w-20 high mileage full synthetic oil from Walmart. Since it's been running fine, I have to resort to what my father used to say, "if it ain't broke, don't fix it". Besides I'm going to replace everything in 1,000 when I do the oil change because the VVT o-ring is leaking. I'm going to replace the VVT assembly from the top. Those three bolts are 6mm not 10mm. The socket used is 10mm. A lot of people say only use O.E.M. parts because they're better, but except for the oil filter I'm trying aftermarket parts. The aftermarket VVT assembly has a lifetime warranty, but the O.E.M. one has no warranty.
How did you permanently bypass this? I have had this code many times and replaced the whole unit last time which was 3 weeks ago with an OEM part thinking the aftermarket part was faulty as it had been changed 3 times!!!
Hi, just I want to say this video held me a lot to fix my 2004 Honda CR-V (OBD P2646), great information to save money and time, Thank you very much for sharing. Great!
Thanks for the informative troubleshooting videos - had P2646 code on 2004 Honda CRV 124K miles - vehicle would not go above 40 mph and intermittently missed above 25 mph. R&R VTEC - the code cleared and check engine light went off. CRV runs great. Even though I did not use the troubleshooting techniques applaud that you provided them. Not just a parts changer.
Thanks for describing the symptoms the car has when it's being driven. I am getting missing and loss of power when I try to accelerate past 20 mph or so. I have the error code and I have the symptoms so that would indicate I've got the solinoid failing to open. First I guess I'll check the wiring and ohms on the solenoid. I've been a little lax changing the oil since I bought this car used 3 years ago. It has 190000 MI. I noticed someone else here remove the part, cleaned it and put it back and that fixed the problem. So if the wiring and ohms check out I might try to try an engine oil flush and new oil, switching to a full synthetic. Thanks KY Home Garage for the excellent videos.
Excellent video! I started using this info to figure it out, but then realized the problem may simply going too long without changing the engine oil. After using Gunk engine flush and an oil change, problem solved! Also, I've read this engine has a timing chain that is oiled by a small orifice that can become clogged if the engine oil changes are neglected.
mine had p2646 r u suggesting a change oil will fix it i look up the solenoid seems oley nkt that greasy but scared today because the engjne jolted a bit seems it doesnt want to run but when i park everything was okey again
Good job Ramon. Excellent explanation of the VTEC operation and diagnostic testing. Best description on UA-cam. I am helping a friend diagnose same code. Tested the switch circuit just as you did. Replaced VTEC solenoid and code stayed the same. Performed VTEC test with scan tool. Fails solenoid on, switch stays on. Unplugged switch and scan tool data shows switch off. Back probed switch signal wire with switch plugged in, voltmeter read 0 VDC. Unplug switch, voltmeter reads 12 VDC. Circuit testing good. Removed VTEC oil switch and installed pressure gauge. Run engine at idle speed and oil pressure reading 80 psi. This pressure should not be at switch oil passage until VTEC is energized at 3,000+ rpm. Maybe a defective VTEC solenoid? It is an aftermarket part. Not an OEM solenoid.
Billy Yoder You are right. You should not have oil pressure on your gauge at idle. Looks like bad solenoid. Unplug connector from solenoid see what happens .
KY Home Garage KY Home Garage. Good morning. Purchased another solenoid. Installed and fixed. Working great. Aftermarket parts are sometimes unreliable. Thank you for the great training. Have a blessed Christmas.
I just recently got a used 2006 Honda Element and got the light and the code for the oil pressure switch. I had to drive it over an hour for work for a week. The guy at the auto parts store had an Element too and he had the same code. And gave me the print out on the cost for the switch $69.00 for the part but you have to replace it, which I'm not good with car repair. He told me he just change the oil when he got the code on his. So, I went and got an oil change to see, and no more light, no more hard jerking motion that I had for a week by trying to step on the gas to accelerate. I bought the car used and the oil must have been low and who knows what oil they used. I checked the oil level but I checked it while it was still warm so I could not tell. I just used the recommended 5w 20. No more problems for a week now and driving over an hour highway mileage and speed that triggered it the first time. I can update this if it changes.
Very good explanation of the system. I’m late to viewing this video and I’ve got a customers 05 Honda Accord that keeps throwing this code with the same symptoms. However my customers car is intermittent and if I wiggle the pressure switch wires at the switch it will run find for a few days to weeks before acting up. I replaced that actuator about a year ago. It appears I may have a bad pin connector. I’ll know next week.
Thank you so much fir all the info about Vtech selonoid problem. I have a 2003 CRV and its giving P1259 code.. Your video is so helpful, THANK YOU sir.
Ramon I know it's an older video but I own 2 Hondas and your presentation was excellant. Thanks for posting and sharing. Very helpful. 👍👍👍 Ramon what model scan tool is that. I know it's an older version but just trying to obtain equipment that have good Honda functions without destroying the budget. I don't need the latest version just a tool that gives me the tests I need. Thanks much long time subscriber good video Thank You
I’ve got an 05 Accord in the shop now with the same symptoms and code. The symptoms with mine are intermittent. It will run fine for weeks then act up. I replaced the solenoid about a year ago and that fixed it for a while. Now if I wiggle the connectors at the valve it runs fine for a few days evens weeks. With your testing the solenoid with the amp clamp could you have have back probed and used a voltmeter to verify voltage to the solenoid?
Thank You Sir. Your video is very informative. I'm having issues with rough idle not terrible but enough to cause me concern also the car has 93000 and has recently displayed poor fuel economy. I replaced The spark plugs and noticed a little increase in mileage and the engine response and idle improved. I haven't ever owned a Honda vtech before so I'm learning. I have worked as professional mechanic but mostly American cars and Nissan. I will check the crank shaft position sensor next and hopefully find it dirty, clean it and see the problem solved. The car is well maintained and was owned by yes a little old lady. Thank you again for your video have a nice day.
I had this problem on my 06 CRV and removed this part, cleaned it real good, reinstalled it, changed the oil (5W-20) the filter and made sure the oil level was full. I haven't had a problem in a year and a half. I keep my oil level at full on the dipstick and change it twice a year whether it needs it or not. The engine seems to work better with cleaner oil. ( My 99 CRV, I would change the oil at 7-10 thousand miles. It didn't mind). The VTECH engine is more finicky.
I flushed mine good with the Valvoline engine flush, replaced oil with full synthetic and the problem is gone. This is a good reason to keep your oil changed. Also there is an oiler for the timing chain that clogs if you don't keep it changed.
Mr. Kentucky thanks for posting, this video was very helpful to me in trouble shooting my VTEC issue. I'm getting a P1259 (VTEC system malfunction) code on my 2003 CRV. Solenoid is testing at 16 ohms (spec is 14-30 ohms); Pressure switch has continuity; Pressure switch connector is testing 11.8 volts when disconnected (open circuit) on blue/black wire; Pressure switch connector is also getting 11.8 volts between blue/black and brown/yellow ground wire; also my ECM is sending 11.8 volts on this same blue/black wire. I've changed the oil and replaced the entire solenoid assembly (new housing, solenoid, pressure switch and scree/gasket). Could 11.8 volts be the culprit? Not sure what else to do.
Surprisingly, the new solenoid assembly came with a bad solenoid. Purchased a new individual solenoid from Napa and installed on the new assembly and it fixed my issue.
I have a similar issue with an 05 crv that has had the vtec spool valve replaced twice. Weird thing is, is that it’s an intermittent issue. On a cold engine I can see the oil pressure switch and solenoid work perfectly fine through the live data. After 30 miles of driving and operating temperature. Code p2646 is set and the oil pressure switch is stuck on and won’t allow the solenoid to turn on. I have checked the vtec Spool valve filter, Oil has been changed with oem filter and oil, oil pressure isn’t dropping drastically when dtc is set. My last option would be to check for source voltage at the oil pressure switch when unplugged because clearly the ground is good if the switch is stuck on; and when unplugging it on the live data it shows off.
hot damn you nailed it! i've been reading forums for months, and nobody was this detailed on this problem. Replaced solenoid and switch, cleaned both clogged screens... many oil changes.. problem now is... how can i get ahold of once of those fancy car computer scanners to run all these diagnostics?? :( (03 honda element) I'm almost certain its a wiring issue, or possibly the PCM ? how would i go about checking for wiring faults?
Dylan Townsend This is Autel Maxidas DS 708 you can get one form eBay $500.00 to $ 850.00 used or new. First unplug your two wire connector from pressure sensor and measure voltage let me know what you have
Can you help? 06 Honda element Vtech automatic trans. VTEC inoperable. New VTEC valve, solenoid , actuator and screen. No bad fuses, no voltage at either VTEC connector, engine on or off?? P2647. Thanks.
Ramon, help me brother ... I checked and cleaned screens, replaced solenoid, P2646 comes on when going up 15-25 degree incline ... could it be the oil intake pipe in the oil pan getting blocked with sludge since i get the problem only going up a steep incline? do you suggest i drop out the pan? Also, I have an OBD scanner, but which App should I get to see the VTEC solenoid and switch states ? I can use iPhone or Android ? Thanks mate - you are my mechanical mentor!
Peter Liu hi my friend. Unfortunately to see this data you need to have professional scan tool. Generic OBD will not have it. Before you pull oil pan off I would remove valve cover and look for sludge. If you have any you are out of luck. Did you change oil?
@@kyhomegarage3430 - flushed the engine with liquid moly twice then filled with synthetic and dropped in MOS2 friction reliever - all working mate. I guess i had sludge build up in head blocking cam shaft hydraulics ... thanks mate - you inspire me ... funny thing was as soon as i fix my car, my fathers car throw a P0171 - running too lean - seems like a vacuum issue perhaps.
I how are you ?what model of the scan computer are you using please let me know thank you.I really like it seems to be a good one the maxidas, what model is yours and how much it cost?
Would you tell me which Bi-Directional Diagnostic Tool you were using. How much $$ are they? I have kid who is 20 years old doing work in auto Parts & Service and really enjoys it though I wanted in college right now but is just into cars. Other kids in college in medicine. I was into Motorcycles at 20 so I get it but I went to college at same time. This would be Fantastic Professional tool for him.
I need help. 2646. 2006. I replaced the vtech solenoid/switch. It worked well about 2 weeks. The problem returned. Today I cleaned the end screen and the same. It goes into limp mode. Last couple days I smell like burning but that is nee and the problem is not. I do not know what to do. It sometimes stutters bad on start.
Actually he proved that the switch was good by doing his tests. He also proved that the solenoid was good by doing additional tests. So the problem was restricted or plugged passageways in either the engine or the spool valve unit that houses the solenoid and the switch. So when the solenoid valve opened up to allow oil to flow to the pressure switch, either no oil or not enough oil was flowing and activating the switch.
Ramon is the solenoid working because the computer see 3000+ RPM or is the switch actually seeing an increase in oil pressure. Do Hondas have variable pressure oil pumps or are they constant pressure and variable flow. Just wondering if it's RPM or Oil pressure controlled. Hope I said this correctly. Thanks again 👍👍👍
From what i understand. The computer sees the rpm over 3000, then opens and closes the switches acordingly alowing the oil to the vtech rocker arm mechanism
Iv replaced the valve twice and done two oil changes in 100 miles and after the motor warms up it still goes into limp mode with this code. Any ideas? Mines a 2005 with 213K miles. Just bought it and drove it a few hundred miles before the issue surfaced.
I checked the connector and it has connectivity to the main wires from the pins. I didn't check the wires themselves to ground. So the blue / black wire is supposed to have 12V and the Black /yellow be ground all the time?
Hello so I have a 2007 Honda Accord with the code p2646 and I already replaced the solenoid and the oil pressure switch I also did a oil change after installing the parts and the problem is still ongoing. What other possible thing is going on with my engine? I'd appreciate any feedback thanks.
MILLION DOLLAR QUESTION. NEW OIL FILTER SCREENS CLEAN . OIL VTEC SOLENOID WORKING FINE . I WANTED TO PUT A NEW ONE ON THE ENGINE, WELL I DID AN BOOM CHECK ENGINE LIGHT ONE I CLEANED MY CONNECTORS . THOUGHT IT WAS THE NEW SIL SO I GOT ANOTHER ONE STILL LIGHT ON . SO I PUT OLD ONE BACK ON AND NO LIGHT AN I GIT VTEC . WTH IS GOIN ON ????
Very informative video with detailed information. I just bought a 2005 Honda Element with 148,000 miles and twenty five miles later the engine started surging and the check engine light came on. I drove one mile to an Advance Auto Parts and their scanner showed codes P2646 "low oil pressure" and P2647 "high oil pressure". I've seen atleast ten video's on UA-cam about this and a couple said low oil level or high oil level can cause this. I can see the low oil level causing this only if the oil level is so low that the oil pump is drawing air. Low oil pressure could also he from oil passage almost completely clogged or either or both screens are clogged. Having too much oil will not increase the oil pressure because the oil pump controls the pressure. If the oil pressure from the oil pump to the oil pressure switch increases it would be from the oil passage being partially clogged due to sludge in the oil or other foreign material. Just like when you pinch the end of a garden hose it creates more pressure, spraying the water further. I checked my oil level and it was one quart low. I added one quart and I believe three days later the check engine light went off and it's ran fine ever since and it's been two weeks. I bought the new aftermarket VVT assembly and an O.E.M. oil filter from Autozone, an aftermarket o-ring and screen gasket for the other side of the engine from Advance Auto Parts and mobil 1 5w-20 high mileage full synthetic oil from Walmart. Since it's been running fine, I have to resort to what my father used to say, "if it ain't broke, don't fix it". Besides I'm going to replace everything in 1,000 when I do the oil change because the VVT o-ring is leaking. I'm going to replace the VVT assembly from the top. Those three bolts are 6mm not 10mm. The socket used is 10mm. A lot of people say only use O.E.M. parts because they're better, but except for the oil filter I'm trying aftermarket parts. The aftermarket VVT assembly has a lifetime warranty, but the O.E.M. one has no warranty.
Had this issue for months....I finally got PISSED off and bypassed the daammm thing. Tricked it permanently with the help of your videos. Thank You!
Can you explain how you did this?
How did you permanently bypass this? I have had this code many times and replaced the whole unit last time which was 3 weeks ago with an OEM part thinking the aftermarket part was faulty as it had been changed 3 times!!!
Hi, just I want to say this video held me a lot to fix my 2004 Honda CR-V (OBD P2646), great information to save money and time, Thank you very much for sharing. Great!
Thanks for the informative troubleshooting videos - had P2646 code on 2004 Honda CRV 124K miles - vehicle would not go above 40 mph and intermittently missed above 25 mph. R&R VTEC - the code cleared and check engine light went off. CRV runs great. Even though I did not use the troubleshooting techniques applaud that you provided them. Not just a parts changer.
Bruce Custer Thank you my friend. I am glad you found this video informative. Cheers
Thanks for describing the symptoms the car has when it's being driven. I am getting missing and loss of power when I try to accelerate past 20 mph or so. I have the error code and I have the symptoms so that would indicate I've got the solinoid failing to open. First I guess I'll check the wiring and ohms on the solenoid. I've been a little lax changing the oil since I bought this car used 3 years ago. It has 190000 MI. I noticed someone else here remove the part, cleaned it and put it back and that fixed the problem. So if the wiring and ohms check out I might try to try an engine oil flush and new oil, switching to a full synthetic. Thanks KY Home Garage for the excellent videos.
Thank you so much for showing how you approached the solenoid. Others showed under and above. The side looks so much easier.
Thank you my friend. I hope this was helpful. Cheers
FANTASTIC!! Very well said, VERY informative! Thank You!!!
South Town thank you sir I am glad this helps. Cheers
Excellent video! I started using this info to figure it out, but then realized the problem may simply going too long without changing the engine oil. After using Gunk engine flush and an oil change, problem solved! Also, I've read this engine has a timing chain that is oiled by a small orifice that can become clogged if the engine oil changes are neglected.
mine had p2646 r u suggesting a change oil will fix it i look up the solenoid seems oley nkt that greasy but scared today because the engjne jolted a bit seems it doesnt want to run but when i park everything was okey again
Good job Ramon. Excellent explanation of the VTEC operation and diagnostic testing. Best description on UA-cam. I am helping a friend diagnose same code. Tested the switch circuit just as you did. Replaced VTEC solenoid and code stayed the same. Performed VTEC test with scan tool. Fails solenoid on, switch stays on. Unplugged switch and scan tool data shows switch off. Back probed switch signal wire with switch plugged in, voltmeter read 0 VDC. Unplug switch, voltmeter reads 12 VDC. Circuit testing good. Removed VTEC oil switch and installed pressure gauge. Run engine at idle speed and oil pressure reading 80 psi. This pressure should not be at switch oil passage until VTEC is energized at 3,000+ rpm. Maybe a defective VTEC solenoid? It is an aftermarket part. Not an OEM solenoid.
Billy Yoder You are right. You should not have oil pressure on your gauge at idle. Looks like bad solenoid. Unplug connector from solenoid see what happens .
KY Home Garage KY Home Garage. Good morning. Purchased another solenoid. Installed and fixed. Working great. Aftermarket parts are sometimes unreliable. Thank you for the great training. Have a blessed Christmas.
Billy Yoder Awesome. I have quick question. What adapter did you use to instal your pressure gauge? Thank you
You have provided every information step by step vividly. You did make a difference. Thumbs up and thank you for your video.
Glad it was helpful!
thank you for the video, it was very informative!
I just recently got a used 2006 Honda Element and got the light and the code for the oil pressure switch. I had to drive it over an hour for work for a week. The guy at the auto parts store had an Element too and he had the same code. And gave me the print out on the cost for the switch $69.00 for the part but you have to replace it, which I'm not good with car repair. He told me he just change the oil when he got the code on his. So, I went and got an oil change to see, and no more light, no more hard jerking motion that I had for a week by trying to step on the gas to accelerate. I bought the car used and the oil must have been low and who knows what oil they used. I checked the oil level but I checked it while it was still warm so I could not tell. I just used the recommended 5w 20. No more problems for a week now and driving over an hour highway mileage and speed that triggered it the first time. I can update this if it changes.
B.J. Martin Great I am glad engine oil fix it. Good job 👍👍
so brother changing the oil first would be a good idea?
@@anthony08330 Yes, it still works with no problem. Just change it every 2,000 miles. If it doesn't fix then the code sensor acts up in raining days.
Very good explanation of the system. I’m late to viewing this video and I’ve got a customers 05 Honda Accord that keeps throwing this code with the same symptoms. However my customers car is intermittent and if I wiggle the pressure switch wires at the switch it will run find for a few days to weeks before acting up. I replaced that actuator about a year ago. It appears I may have a bad pin connector. I’ll know next week.
Thank you so much fir all the info about Vtech selonoid problem. I have a 2003 CRV and its giving P1259 code.. Your video is so helpful, THANK YOU sir.
You are welcome
Looked like Autel Maxidas on my cell video but not sure. Thanks for input and great detail on Video.
7:55 this part is very helpful for the diagnostics.
Ramon I know it's an older video but I own 2 Hondas and your presentation was excellant. Thanks for posting and sharing. Very helpful. 👍👍👍 Ramon what model scan tool is that. I know it's an older version but just trying to obtain equipment that have good Honda functions without destroying the budget. I don't need the latest version just a tool that gives me the tests I need. Thanks much long time subscriber good video Thank You
thank you so much I have the same car and problem
GRATE VIDEO ...VERY HELP FULL
Thank you I hope it was helpful. Cheers
gracias fue de bastante ayuda......
great video thank you
Great video
Great Job ,
I’ve got an 05 Accord in the shop now with the same symptoms and code. The symptoms with mine are intermittent. It will run fine for weeks then act up. I replaced the solenoid about a year ago and that fixed it for a while. Now if I wiggle the connectors at the valve it runs fine for a few days evens weeks. With your testing the solenoid with the amp clamp could you have have back probed and used a voltmeter to verify voltage to the solenoid?
Thank You Sir. Your video is very informative. I'm having issues with rough idle not terrible but enough to cause me concern also the car has 93000 and has recently displayed poor fuel economy. I replaced The spark plugs and noticed a little increase in mileage and the engine response and idle improved. I haven't ever owned a Honda vtech before so I'm learning. I have worked as professional mechanic but mostly American cars and Nissan. I will check the crank shaft position sensor next and hopefully find it dirty, clean it and see the problem solved. The car is well maintained and was owned by yes a little old lady. Thank you again for your video have a nice day.
Hi. First step I would do is to check fuel trim at idle and WOT. You could have vacuum leak.
this is the second time i watch this video you can be a mechanic teacher iama mechanic from california good work ramon
Deionle Le thank you my friend I am just car enthusiast. Fixing cars is in my blood. Love to stay dirty.👍👍
I had this problem on my 06 CRV and removed this part, cleaned it real good, reinstalled it, changed the oil (5W-20) the filter and made sure the oil level was full. I haven't had a problem in a year and a half. I keep my oil level at full on the dipstick and change it twice a year whether it needs it or not. The engine seems to work better with cleaner oil. ( My 99 CRV, I would change the oil at 7-10 thousand miles. It didn't mind). The VTECH engine is more finicky.
TRANSMITTER GUY ok I am glad it worked for you . Thank you
I flushed mine good with the Valvoline engine flush, replaced oil with full synthetic and the problem is gone. This is a good reason to keep your oil changed. Also there is an oiler for the timing chain that clogs if you don't keep it changed.
Very informative. Thank you.
Can i use a tester with a light to test the wires on my o2 sensor plug? Mine shows no signal its a new one
Any info on testing the VVT SOLENOID? Thanks in advance
Mr. Kentucky thanks for posting, this video was very helpful to me in trouble shooting my VTEC issue. I'm getting a P1259 (VTEC system malfunction) code on my 2003 CRV. Solenoid is testing at 16 ohms (spec is 14-30 ohms); Pressure switch has continuity; Pressure switch connector is testing 11.8 volts when disconnected (open circuit) on blue/black wire; Pressure switch connector is also getting 11.8 volts between blue/black and brown/yellow ground wire; also my ECM is sending 11.8 volts on this same blue/black wire. I've changed the oil and replaced the entire solenoid assembly (new housing, solenoid, pressure switch and scree/gasket). Could 11.8 volts be the culprit? Not sure what else to do.
What was it?
Surprisingly, the new solenoid assembly came with a bad solenoid. Purchased a new individual solenoid from Napa and installed on the new assembly and it fixed my issue.
I have a similar issue with an 05 crv that has had the vtec spool valve replaced twice. Weird thing is, is that it’s an intermittent issue. On a cold engine I can see the oil pressure switch and solenoid work perfectly fine through the live data. After 30 miles of driving and operating temperature. Code p2646 is set and the oil pressure switch is stuck on and won’t allow the solenoid to turn on. I have checked the vtec Spool valve filter, Oil has been changed with oem filter and oil, oil pressure isn’t dropping drastically when dtc is set. My last option would be to check for source voltage at the oil pressure switch when unplugged because clearly the ground is good if the switch is stuck on; and when unplugging it on the live data it shows off.
very good
Very informative video. Where can I get the wiring diagram like u had?
hot damn you nailed it! i've been reading forums for months, and nobody was this detailed on this problem. Replaced solenoid and switch, cleaned both clogged screens... many oil changes.. problem now is... how can i get ahold of once of those fancy car computer scanners to run all these diagnostics?? :( (03 honda element) I'm almost certain its a wiring issue, or possibly the PCM ? how would i go about checking for wiring faults?
Dylan Townsend This is Autel Maxidas DS 708 you can get one form eBay $500.00 to $ 850.00 used or new. First unplug your two wire connector from pressure sensor and measure voltage let me know what you have
Can you help? 06 Honda element Vtech automatic trans. VTEC inoperable. New VTEC valve, solenoid , actuator and screen. No bad fuses, no voltage at either VTEC connector, engine on or off?? P2647. Thanks.
I have the same issue, Replaced everything twice. Next I am going to test the wires to see if they connections are even coming in.
What should be the solenoid resistance?
Would a bad oil pres. switch cause cylinder misfires???
No
Ramon, help me brother ... I checked and cleaned screens, replaced solenoid, P2646 comes on when going up 15-25 degree incline ... could it be the oil intake pipe in the oil pan getting blocked with sludge since i get the problem only going up a steep incline? do you suggest i drop out the pan? Also, I have an OBD scanner, but which App should I get to see the VTEC solenoid and switch states ? I can use iPhone or Android ? Thanks mate - you are my mechanical mentor!
Peter Liu hi my friend. Unfortunately to see this data you need to have professional scan tool. Generic OBD will not have it. Before you pull oil pan off I would remove valve cover and look for sludge. If you have any you are out of luck. Did you change oil?
@@kyhomegarage3430 - flushed the engine with liquid moly twice then filled with synthetic and dropped in MOS2 friction reliever - all working mate. I guess i had sludge build up in head blocking cam shaft hydraulics ... thanks mate - you inspire me ... funny thing was as soon as i fix my car, my fathers car throw a P0171 - running too lean - seems like a vacuum issue perhaps.
I would check oil pressure when the issue occurs.l
I how are you ?what model of the scan computer are you using please let me know thank you.I really like it seems to be a good one the maxidas, what model is yours and how much it cost?
I am using autel maxidas DS708. I got my used on ebay for $400.00 last year. Great tool to have. Cheers
i have my test sucssed solenoid and switch working on/off but i still have the check ingen , any thing can you help?
Eyad ghalyoun Very common problem is engine sludge.
Great video gime the favor to send diagram you used in this video
Would you tell me which Bi-Directional Diagnostic Tool you were using. How much $$ are they? I have kid who is 20 years old doing work in auto Parts & Service and really enjoys it though I wanted in college right now but is just into cars. Other kids in college in medicine. I was into Motorcycles at 20 so I get it but I went to college at same time. This would be Fantastic Professional tool for him.
I need help. 2646. 2006. I replaced the vtech solenoid/switch. It worked well about 2 weeks. The problem returned. Today I cleaned the end screen and the same. It goes into limp mode. Last couple days I smell like burning but that is nee and the problem is not. I do not know what to do. It sometimes stutters bad on start.
And it wastes a lot of gas
what id voltage only goes to 11.71 volts?
I have that same problem they've already change that part but the check engine light comes back on with same code. What else can be done
Did you change oil and see if you have any sludge in your engine ( take valve cover off ). Thank you
They've changed the oil twice and comes out clean.
There is another filter on the front passenger side of the engine, and it can clog. Not easy to get to!!!!
Great video my friend, so the problem was the switch, why did you change the whole thing?
Actually he proved that the switch was good by doing his tests. He also proved that the solenoid was good by doing additional tests. So the problem was restricted or plugged passageways in either the engine or the spool valve unit that houses the solenoid and the switch. So when the solenoid valve opened up to allow oil to flow to the pressure switch, either no oil or not enough oil was flowing and activating the switch.
Ramon is the solenoid working because the computer see 3000+ RPM or is the switch actually seeing an increase in oil pressure. Do Hondas have variable pressure oil pumps or are they constant pressure and variable flow. Just wondering if it's RPM or Oil pressure controlled. Hope I said this correctly. Thanks again 👍👍👍
From what i understand.
The computer sees the rpm over 3000, then opens and closes the switches acordingly alowing the oil to the vtech rocker arm mechanism
Thanks for the info. Was wondering at what point the computer would send the signal. Thanks again 👍
Iv replaced the valve twice and done two oil changes in 100 miles and after the motor warms up it still goes into limp mode with this code. Any ideas? Mines a 2005 with 213K miles. Just bought it and drove it a few hundred miles before the issue surfaced.
I would check engine engine oil pressure
any easy way to do that through the computer port or do I have to plumb in a gauge?
You will have to remove oil pressure sensor and install oil pressure gauge.
@@xbigbobsagetx What did you find out? My 07 works good till car is warm then limp mode?
How about P2647? Would that indicate a stuck open solenoid?
Jackson Cruz that code is for pressure switch circuit high. Check your ground wire on your switch. Also check your connector on your switch.
I checked the connector and it has connectivity to the main wires from the pins. I didn't check the wires themselves to ground. So the blue / black wire is supposed to have 12V and the Black /yellow be ground all the time?
Jackson Cruz yes
Jackson Cruz please watch part 2 of this video should help you
Please watch part 2 of this video it should help you
KY, I always thought that meant something else 😅
Not KY lubricant my friend just good al Kentucky.😂
Hello so I have a 2007 Honda Accord with the code p2646 and I already replaced the solenoid and the oil pressure switch I also did a oil change after installing the parts and the problem is still ongoing. What other possible thing is going on with my engine? I'd appreciate any feedback thanks.
Is your engine sludge ? If you can take engine cover off and look for sludge. Thank you.
@@kyhomegarage3430 if it has sludge what would be the nest step
i ended up changing the oil to the correct weight and it never came back, until customer went over the service interval
My Honda pilot 07 is indicating on my computer vcm,what should I do,and it's misfiring
Your awesome :) what's your name sir?
oshin aslanianMy name is Ramon I am from ex Yugoslavia. Thanks for nice comment.
KY HomeGarage ZRAVO! lol, I learned that from my Bosnian friend. I'm Armenian.
oshin aslanian that's awesome I can't believe it
2005 Honda CR-V 4x4 is not working what could be the reason
How about sharing us what you mean, "Not Working"?
If you can't be clear & precise, how do you expect people going to help you?
@@angelisone 4x4 not working
MILLION DOLLAR QUESTION. NEW OIL FILTER SCREENS CLEAN . OIL VTEC SOLENOID WORKING FINE . I WANTED TO PUT A NEW ONE ON THE ENGINE, WELL I DID AN BOOM CHECK ENGINE LIGHT ONE I CLEANED MY CONNECTORS . THOUGHT IT WAS THE NEW SIL SO I GOT ANOTHER ONE STILL LIGHT ON . SO I PUT OLD ONE BACK ON AND NO LIGHT AN I GIT VTEC . WTH IS GOIN ON ????
Where do you get the schematics?
I used BBB industries but they don’t provide wiring diagrams anymore
Great thank you. I found one your videos are very informative. Thanks!;!!
Scotty did the same in a 5 mins video
Scotty sounds like a chipmunk squishing this👍 video into 5 minutes👎.