Not one normally to comment .However the professional quality of your videos is astounding . The lighting , soft focus behind, the close ups, animation, stills, and content is on a par with any TV show. The audio is the best I hear on UA-cam ...But most of all I find your instruction, commentary and gems of information a treasure trove. Thank you Mick you are very talented and your humble attitude very endearing .
Totally agree. Even if I already knew every bit of information in it, I would still watch the whole video just for the visual joy and appreciation of its quality in general
To avoid the back-and-forth process of balancing the spring tension I like the method taught in the StewMac book. Start with the springs loose which means loosening the claw a few turns. They suggest cutting a block of wood that keeps the trem stationary while the strings are brought to pitch and then you tighten the springs until the block releases and then it is balanced. This is a very quick and accurate method. Highly recommend getting the StewMac book on electric guitar set ups. It has changed everything for me.
A couple points about the blocking off part. I experimented many years ago with different woods, and the harder the wood, the better the sustain was. So I found that an oak block was the best, didn’t have anything harder around the shop. Also, if you remove the springs, you also might sever the ground lead to the strings, as it’s soldered to the claw, so if you pull the springs and the claw, you need to connect the ground lead directly to the bridge.
There may be a ton of these videos online, but very few of this quality and patient detail of explanation. The graphical representations were a huge plus. Kudos for once again making high quality content.
I agree, and would add: the information in this video is accurate. I've seen videos where the presenter lacks an understanding of balancing strings and springs, and makes incorrect statements. Mick clearly understands the physics, and puts it across well.
Mick, great video. I too have played Strats for over 35 years. My 1964 used to stay in perfect tune no matter how hard I dive bombed it. Then one day it started going out of tune and I was totally bewildered. I then went on the "how does this darn thing work" quest. Long story short, most of the sticking is at the top of the saddles. The tremolo was definitely originally designed by Leo to float 1/8" off of the body like Fender recommends. This puts the saddle tops at more of a perpendicular angle to the string/saddle contact and the body. Highwood Vintage Contour saddles completely solved all of my tuning issues because the groove is a perfect place to store some Teflon grease. When you deck your tremolo, the tuning stability decreases (when dive bombing) mainly because the break angle of the string increases on the top of the saddles and that last little movement of the saddle when the plate finally contacts the body, increases the friction on top of the saddle and the string sticks and pulls the string ever so slightly sharp when the saddle tilts backward (away from the nut). Wear grooves on the top of the vintage saddles definitely exacerbates this friction. It happens more on the plain strings because the winding on the bass strings tends to prevent the string from sticking. The groove and the grease completely eliminates that friction. Also, the groove in the Highwood has slightly more contact area where the string contacts the saddle top and reduces the sharpness of the contact area that you get on a vintage saddle. Some don't care for changing the tone by using the Highwoods but they do increase sustain slightly and I personally don't notice any tonal change, albeit ever so slight.
@@ThatPedalShow Mick, take a look at your patent application schematic (Fig. 4) and you will see what I mean. Notice that the saddles are perfectly perpendicular to the guitar body. This is by design and not just for good looks. You can see the full float which actually looks a little more than 1/8." It was designed for a nice, gentle 1956 warble. Leo didn't realize what his invention was capable of until Jimi Hendrix came along and broke all of its design barriers. I think Leo even commented something like "it was never designed to do that." Also notice that the string block is just about centered in the block route (Fig. 2) which restricts the amount of up and down movement possible when it is floating as designed. There are three places in the patent that mention "limited pivotal movement." That also kept the strings from sliding too much on the top of the saddles and kept them rolling gently over the crowns of the saddles. He must have had a heart attack when he saw Jimi jumping up and down on the whammy bar, lol. Nowadays, after Hendrix broke all the rules, we have excess string sliding, more friction, more string breakage, more string sticking, and more out-of-tune notes. I'm not sponsored by Highwood but they certainly made a saddle that addresses the friction problem and they weren't even designed to do that. It was a serendipitous side effect. They were originally designed to keep the height adjustment screws from sticking up excessively above the saddles and cutting your hands.
When you block the trem and remove the springs you also remove the connection from the strings to the ground wire. You might want to clamp a wire between the sustain block and the woodblock to reconnect it to the ground wire to prevent your weird noise. (Especially when your neighbor is a radio amateur)
This is a really important point, far more important than body cavity shielding with either conductive paint or copper foil. Serious geeks can look into shock stopping resistors and the like... Have fun.
The method which I've used when setting up a floating bridge (and that also helped with Floyd Rose): 1. Block the bridge going backwards with something at a height at which I prefer it set. 2. Tune the guitar (with strings already stretched) 3. Remove the thing that's been blocking the bridge and then adjust the screws in the claw (tighten or loosen them up) so that the guitar goes back in tune. This method significantly reduces the time needed for the string tension to match the tension of the springs.
You have the correct method to set the tremolo to equalize ore perfectly match the pull of the strings. Using the vibrato arm after this setup the strings should always return to correct tuning.
Tuning tip - when you’re tuning a floating vibrato, it’s easier if you alternate from the outside in rather than tuning sequentially from low to high (or heavy gauge string to lighter gauge strings). So instead of tuning low e, then moving to the a string - go from the low e to the high e string, then the a string, then the b string, etc. I believe it’s something to do with balancing the impact of the heavier string gauges with getting the lighter gauge strings closer to their end point earlier. I think I read about this back in Dimebag Darrell’s column in Guitar World back in my Floyd Rose high school metal phase, but it’s a really handy trick and it works!
For Floyd rose- Put a block of something under the rearward end to hold the bridge at your preferred angle without the strings. Tighten the claw a bit. Change strings. Stretch, tune & lock down. Remove the block and let the strings go sharp. Loosen the claw till it’s back in tune and that’s where you had it before you started. May sound complicated it’s quick and simple and always works. I don’t use anything like a Floyd anymore but I did for years and this procedure cured me of many headaches. I could do it in 5-10 minutes.
@@michaeljarvis5489 maybe a bit less pointless… but yeah before I figured that out it was always a painful and frustrating not to mention protracted exercise. :-)
I've played Strat's for 32 years, worked for various amp manufacturers and worked a stint in a shop as a guitar tech, still managed to learn two things from this video. Thanks :)
I've always set my Strats for down-bend only and will continue to do so, but I have mine set basically as a fail safe for a string break so the spring tension is just holding it flat against the body and there's minimal elasticity/effort for down-bends but if I break a string it's going nowhere.
Yep. Decades of guitar work here too, but though it has always been there, I rarely thought about how string BENDS effect ALL strings' pitch in a floating setup. Just as it effects them all when a string breaks
One tip for multi-string bends with a floating team. It is actually possible to do them in-tune. If you rest the back of your picking hand on the bridge, you can apply some counter-pressure to keep the bridge from getting pulled along with the bend. One easy drill is to pick a note and while picking that note over and over, bend an adjacent string (no need to pick the ‘bent’ note during this drill) and listen to the note while applying pressure to the bridge. Varying the hand pressure by on the bridge, you can listen for how much pressure is needed to keep the note in-tune. You’ll soon develop a natural feel for how to counter the notes being pulled out of tune during an adjacent bend. 👍
What I do with my vintage (6 screw) tremolo is watch the bridge as I slowly tighten the outside screws to when I see the back of the bridge start to raise, I stop and then turn the screws back a smidge.. I then tighten the 4 inner screws to where they are slightly looser than the 2 outer ones... Best tutorial I've seen so far on this topic. Thank you.
FULL FLOATING! The cons about string bending can be easily overcome by holding the bar still as you bend. Its a technique that takes a bit of getting used to, but once you get it, this technique can be used in other ways that can be extremely dynamic and interesting.
@@GregorHoul you CAN just bend with the bar but it sounds different. If you want to bend one string while other unbent strings are ringing then you can't bend with the bar. The problem with the trem is that when you bend that one string the other unbent strings drop in pitch. This is why I hold the bar still. This bend should operate the way it does on a hard tail if you do it right. The best of both worlds.
I can answer one of your questions... in my city across twelve different musical stores... There is a total of one hardtail strat available for purchase. Robert cray signature series for $1600.... the only other hard tail advertised are custom shop versions for $4500.... so that should answer why people block their trem vs. Buying a hardboiled version 😅
I’ve never been a serious strat player, but I found this utterly fascinating. Thank you again for the time, effort and knowledge you’ve shared. Like always, TPS does not let us down 🙌
Left handed 1977 CBS Era Strat owner here! This video is awesomely detailed and I want to thank you for all this information. The screw height section is a point that I know I messed up years ago (screwed them in all the way thinging they were loose) and have never used my trem since...you are awesome!
A note on intonation and action when using a fully floating setup: Firstly, regardless of how you set your bridge-plate, the design of the strat bridge means that the pivot point is where the screws meet the back of the plate, and any adjustment in saddle height is not a perfectly up and down motion, it is a radius. This means that when you are adjusting your saddle height be mindful that you are also making an adjustment to your intonation (a small one but still). Ok on the topic of fully floating bridges... Since your bridge-plate is not parallel to the strings, any change in intonation will change your action; As the saddle moves further forward or back on the bridge-plate, it is also going up and down that "ramp". Just be mindful if you are setting up a fully floating bridge, that you will need to go back and forth, balancing your intonation screws and height adjustment screws until both are set correct, as changing one changes the other :)
That's why setting the bridge plate parallel to the strings is the recommended method for setting up full floating bridges. When the plate is parallel to the strings, changes in saddle height do not affect intonation and vica versa.
A couple things you can do for string on string are: if the unbent string is being fretted, you can bend those strings slightly to bring them up to pitch, or if the strings are open you can use your picking hand to put pressure on the bridge so it doesn't come up with the bend. Neither are perfect but both help.
I have my trem fully floating. String changing is easy as long as you are happy with the original set up and are changing like for like in terms of string gauge. All I do is use a set of feeler gauges to wedge the bridge into position. Then I slacken off and replace the strings. Tuning to pitch is then quick as the springs in the guitar are pretensioned and the feeler gauge usually falls out when the strings are at the correct pitch.
I can’t overstate how comprehensive and totally useful this video is. I’ve been playing strats since 1976. Finally settled on flat to body down bend only: I am not Beck and I play more easily and better with plate flat to body. I know I can’t flutter but I don’t need to. Many a sleepless night agonising. I have 3 strats now. All have trems flat to body. Each with different trem arm tension though. 😁👍🏼
It's a journey for all of us to find exactly what we prefer, and this video covers all the elements needed to fine tune one's bridge setup. For me a slight bit of float (4 springs in back) and the slanted claw bar as used by Mr. Beck does the job. Your tip about the tension of the bridge screws from a video quite a while ago really was a big step toward a perfect setup, the claw bar angle is another. Experimenting with being fully decked vs amounts of float got me where I am very happy with the tone and feel. Everything about TPS is why the internet exists, I can't thank you all enough for the info, entertainment, and feeling of community. Huge thumbs up for all you do 👍 Enjoy the vacation time!
I have (and love) a 6-screw vintage bridge Mexican Strat... replacement vibrato bridges are difficult to find that drop in (because of the MIM screw spacing). New flat saddles from GraphTech are much more comfortable than stamped steel with exposed pokey allen screws, and a Tusq XL nut (and string trees) are also fantastic for nearly eliminating friction. Great video!!
by far the best explanation and critique of the Term/Vibrato setup ..... even better than fender could do ...thank you guys ....keep up the phenomenal work you do
Hey, Chums! Very comprehensive as usual! Possibly the best video I've ever seen about setting up the Strat vibrato. One tip when changing strings with a floating trem -- I typically place a pad of post-it notes under the bridge plate when changing the strings (of course the string package works well too). The benefit of using a pad of post-it notes is that I can remove pages of post-it notes to allow for a perfect fit under the bridge plate. Thanks for the great video!!
I love watching these vids, Mick. I would throw one hint out that I’ve used for my ~25 years of playing strats - If you’re just changing strings...not moving to a different setup, or setting up for the first time: Any variation of floating ‘trem’ - change your strings one-at-a-time - keeps your tension, and the whole balance in place. I’ve changed a whole set of strings in-between set breaks before, and I never have tuning issues when I do it this way.
Mick’s wisdom is appreciated immensely. I own, 4 Tele’s, 2 Strats, & 1 Silver Sky SE. All the Vibrato bridges’ are set up; flush with the body. Though when I saw Jeff Beck in Nov of 2022 before he passed it definitely made me second guess myself.
For a fully floating trem a 3mm pad (wood, nylon or similar) as a temporary spacer between the body and trem plate will enable the strings to be brought to pitch more quickly as the string being tuned will affect the ones already fitted much less. Removing the spacer will cause the 'flying height' and tension in the strings to change as the springs are allowed to do their balance thing. But all the strings will be more in the ball park. Useful for changing single strings.
You solved my Strat/Tremolo tuning issues i've had for a couple of years. Thank you Mick for a clear explanation of the mechanics of the Strat tremolo. Excellent.
An oft ignored way to address the angle of the high strings over the nut is adjusting the height of the string tree(s) with spacers. I see a lot of "strats" where the tree(s) are screwed flush to the headstock, pulling the sharpest angle.
My first electric guitar was a MIM Strat in 2007. I always felt like it was a fight to get the guitar to work for me, causing me to eventually trade the guitar away and spend years playing exclusively fixed bridge alternatives before eventually drifting away from any type of playing. After years of watching TPS, especially after several episodes of the Strat Vlog, I finally purchased a Strat again in early 2023. I have since tamed the wild beast and have a renewed love for not only the Strat, but playing guitar as a whole. Cheers, and thanks for the quality content!
Only just started the video but I have to say the Frudua method from FruduaTv channel was all I ever needed to get my american strat to stay in tune. Not only does it stay in tune or reset easily with the trem bar, but you can adjust the claw a bit to get the Carl V intervals. Or you can lock it down and enjoy a serviceable guitar just with less personality. On my american I like it "free floating" except it can only be tightened by a tiny bit, I can divebomb down in pitch but I can raise pitch just enough to keep interesting wobbles that strats are known for
In regards to the spring harmonics, I just use a strip of soft foam across the springs and screw back on the back cover plate. Problem solved. Many Thanks for the episode!
Flat block is my preferred method on my MIJ Strat, I also put in some narrow plastic tubing inside the springs to stop the vibration/buzzing. This work on the floating setup as well
Mick does such a great job of capturing that yin-yang challenge of Strat setup. After a lot of years struggling with setting up guitars, I find I actually enjoy messing with that "tipping point" of a Strat trem and bridge. Even reminds me a little of messing with auto engine carburetors back in the day. Fun video.
I like mine floating. As long as you set it up right and make sure there are no sharp edges the only way it goes out is if you break the string, but you can mitigate that with fresh strings. Mine sustains great, sounds clearer to me, and stays in tune wonderfully. If you have trouble rub chapstick in the nut. Don’t be afraid to try floating, once you get used to it you’re good to go
Thanks Mick. That was very informative. The method I use is to put a slimmer wood block on the opposite side ( spring side of the block). The advantage of this method is that it acts like the downward method that you showed but then you can adjust the size of the wooden block somehow that the bridge is parallel to the body and not sitting on it which result in ugly negative angle and possibly damaging your guitar finish on a long run. This would be very similar to installing the tremolo (vibrato!) stop in the springs cavity except that because of larger wooden contact surface you won’t hear the metal to metal sound of block resting on the metal screw (or stop bar) when you let go of the arm.
Just on the decked vibrato versus a hardtail, there is still a bit of that spring sound that you can't get with a hardtail. I've been playing my Strats with a decked vibrato for years, but still love that vibe that the springs in the back give. And regardless of how decked the vibrato is, it's never completely fastened to the body like a hardtail, so it always has a tiny bit of movement and give in it. I personally prefer the vibrato decked because I'm often changing to different alternate and open tunings on my Strats, and I can bend or capo anywhere or anyhow with no concerns. But I'd never go for a hardtail. There's still a vibe with a decked vibrato and springs banging around in the body. Plus, if I just deck the bridge then I still get to pick the Strat I want without being limited to hardtails. Great video though Mick, I enjoyed that!
Had this on in the background as I polished the frets and popped a new set of strings on my strat. Thanks for giving me things to double check in the process!
I've been scavenging the internet for many many years searching for information on strat setups. This is THE BEST video... It covers pretty much everything on tremolo setup. Thank you!
Holy moly! I've been tearing my hair out trying to sort out a strat with a flaky trem. Turns out the scratchplate was jammed against the bridge - THANK YOU!!!!
Some cheap string trees aren't bent/don't have a curve in them and it's really worth looking out for. On a good guitar (like your lovely original strat there) you can see the non-bent string tree is fitted at an angle to reduce friction. On some cheaper guitars (I found this recently on a road worn neck I got off ebay) sometimes you will find a non-curved string tree fitted at a flat angle designed for bent string trees. This makes tuning stability HORRENDOUS as the strings constantly bind on the string tree. Swapping to a bent/curved pure vintage string tree made a WORLD of difference. From a completely unusable trem to the best of any of my strats. Also... WD-40 isn't a lubricant! It cleans but it doesn't lubricate! Stick to the pencil graphite! 😄 Love the vids!
A tip for the final stage of floating the trem: 1) tune new and stretched strings to pitch 2) use post-it notes to stack under bridge (and raise) until the G string is tuned to the pitch you want your vibrato to acheive. (eg down half-step to F#) 3) with post-its still in place, tune all strings (including the G) to regular pitch 4) remove post-its. Guitar will be out of tune. Flip guitar over and tune by adjusting claw screws This will save you so much back-and-forth tuning and it will be set up perfectly to your liking every time.
Here's how I float my Strats and I never go out of tune... Loosen the spring claw in the back and remove the springd. Take the bridge off, then take the saddles off the plate but keep them in order. Clean it with Windex, no dirt, dust or wax underneath or anywhere,. Clean and polish the body surface as well. Run a thin bead of Break-Free rifle lubricant along the fulcrum pivot point underneath the plate. Carefully place it back into the cavity, screw the six screws mostly in and add a wee bit of the lube right under the screw heads with a toothpick or such. Tighten them down but leave a tiny bit of daylight between the plate and screw head and set all six screws equally. Hook the springs back on and set the claw fairly tight. String it up and tune to pitch. Once the set-up is relatively done, put the whammy bar in and re-adjust the springs so that when you pull the trem up flush to the body, your G string pulls up to a perfect A. That may sound like a lot but it's really not, it's just enough clearance to wang without the plate banging againt the body. It's perfectly balanced and it's also a fun Page-like trick to pull the open G up to an A. I also add a smidgen of Blue Lok-Tite to the saddle height screws so they don't sink over time and remain stable. Of course there's more, like how the neck tenon is pitched in the neck pocket as you don't want the bridge saddles set too high or too low. And of course the nut slots, string trees and amount of wraps around the posts is another bucket of tweaks. If you want to set it flush/blocked like Hendrix, Clapton, SRV, pre-80's Gilmour, ect... you'll have to back-pitch the neck tenon with a shim or neck-tilt adjustment so that the saddles aren't jacked up too high. I've even gone as far as sanding out the neck pockets on most of my Fenders to get the action right (Slightly tilted down on the low E side) but that's risky if you're not a luthier. Oh yeah, 4 or 5 springs will feel/sound more surfy and springy, and 3 springs or 3 in a V-shape came about in the 80's with Floyd Roses, ultra-light strings, shredding and dive bombs and such. It's a more modern feel. The good news is once you set everything right, it should be good for years with minimal tweaks. :D
Thanks! 1. You say you set all 6 screws with a minimal gap? 2. My 50s type vibrato is hard as fuck to operate, even with just 2 springs. Any ides why? I have 9-42 strings on.
Try getting some raw vintage springs. They are much better tension and comfortable to run with 4 or 5 springs. Most of the modern strings are much higher tension. Also found tuning stability better with them. Those plus Callahan are best combo I’ve found - damn near impossible to knock out of tune once string broken in
@@andersestes It's hard to say, have to see what's going on but it was never designed for 2 springs. Could be bad springs. I've seen weird things like that. Gibson was shipping some of their guitars with Floyd Roses about 12 years ago and they were a disaster. Turned out weak springs was the problem.
Following your lead here, and my mexican made strat has never sounded better, not to mention how well it now keeps its tuning. That fully floating setup is marvelous.
There is a big con to a floating vibrato that you failed to mention. This con may be specific to me and how I play but I would suspect it's likely quite common and that is that I tend to rest my hand on the bridge. The result is that even the slightest bit of downward pressure on the bridge will noticeably impact the tuning. As I said, this playing "style" may be particular to me but I suspect it's a much more common position.
Yes, same with me. I tend to rest my hand on the bridge, and while I have a Floyd Rose system, it has three same effect. BTW, I thought I wanted a FR, but I hate it! I'm seriously considering taking the "clamp" part off of the nut, and replacing the nut with a GraphTek one. I really hate it, it makes it a pain to change anything, and it's totally unnecessary. A properly setup and maintained Strat-type trem (vibrato) is fine.
The trick is to rest you hand closer to the pivot point. If yuu're on a Strat type trem, you may want to change saddle screws if they stick up high and are sharp. In the long run, you'll want to refine your technique, so you don't put excessive pressure on the bridge.
@@jeffro. You can carry a Floyd Rose equipped guitar around by just the whammy bar and it won't go out of tune. It's a double locking system. The string is clamped at the bridge and nut and can't slip. The locknut is the clamp at the nut end. It's necessary for that level of tuning stability. Double locking systems are the only type of trem that can't go out of tune. Floyd Rose is the most common design for guitars with headstock mounted tuners. The Steinberger "R" trem design is a common aftermarket trem for headless guitars. I actually put locknuts on the vast majority of my guitars builds. With a locknut, all tuning stability issues on the headstock end of the guitar go away.
Been playing guitar for over 45 years and have never owned a Strat or any other style of guitar with a vibrato. Methinks it's high time to get a Strat style guitar... now that you've made it very clear on how to set up a vibrato system that'll stay in tune (relatively speaking). Thanks Mick!!!
Now adopted by plumbers for sealing joints, PTFE "Perfect Trem For Everyone" tape was developed in Leo's laboratory as a solution to whammy bar thread issues.
PTFE was discovered in 1938 by a DuPont chemist. It was used in 1942 to make corrosion resistant components for the atomic bomb. Leo's big claim to fame was bringing Ford assembly line type manufacturing to the guitar building business.
@@Les537 Yep, I do as well, however in some trem equipped guitars, (Squiers, some Pacificas), the block is drilled through at the trem bar channel, so you can't use a spring in there. What really annoys me though, is why we should have to resort to remedying an inherent fault in the threading of the block/bar ratio. I mean when you screw a bolt into a nut in any other situation, the resulting union is rock solid! So why are trem units so slack!!! Aghhh...
To avoid the "back-and-forth" when tuning a full float setup: Block the trem so it won't pull up. Tighten the claw slightly (1/2 a turn). The guitar is now locked in hardtail mode. Restring and tune up. If the trem starts to move while tuning, tighten the claw a bit more. Remove the block - the strings will all go slightly sharp. Loosen the claw until the strings drop back to correct pitch. Works for full float Strat as well as Floyd Rose type trems. The Steinberger "R" trem actually has a built-in hardtail lock and uses a thumbscrew for the spring to make re-strings a breeze. Spring stiffness can also affect how many springs. I run 8's on all my guitar builds. Some can get away with two springs, and some need five (weaker) springs.
Great vid as everr, many thanks. I was a luthier for many years and must have worked on at least a billion Strats - would have liked access to this vid 30 years ago. It's everything I learned about Strat trems (yes, vibratos ) presented and explained with an ease and facility I could never quite muster... Quick tip RE using a pencil to lubricate the nut: An HB pencil is 50% graphite, 50% clay. The softer the pencil, the greater the graphite content; from memory a 1B pencil has a greater graphite content, than the HB up to 9B which is 90% graphite. 100% graphite sticks are readily available from art suppliers for next to no money and are noticably better than the pencil based competition. For my money 100% graphite trumps nut sauce etc, but that's just me. I find a mix of 100% graphite stick and vaseline an excellent string tree lubricant, having sanded and contoured the leading/trailing edges to taste. Name brands are all well and good, but there's usually a cheap alternative. IME the cheapo chango is as good as if not better...
That one string ringing while another is bent, is why SRV used five springs, along with matching the tension of the heavier strings. I love hearing the springs! Been a Strat player for around 60 years ... Half the fun of playing a Strat is using that gear shifter! I'm sure you will get to it somewhere in this video, but much of the tunability of this and all other guitars with vibratos, is having a properly cut nut for the gauge of strings you are using, along with a good nut lube ... Always good to use a small flathead to apply it to the underside of the string tree. EDIT: Also ... Give Raw Vintage springs a hard look ... they are not expensive, easy to change with a long flathead screwdriver, and will make playing a Stratocaster a lot easier.
Great topic. Great video. My first electric was a used Black '76 Strat in '77. I used to double a matchbook cover under the back of my bridge to set heigth and leave the screws a little loose.
Pending a decently balanced floating setup and a stable neck, it’s IMO the down-bend only setup that’s least tuning-stable: When the strings loosen during a down-bend, the strings slide towards the tuners’ posts, over the nut, and when they re-tighten, towards the end of the down-bend, the nut friction will impair their sliding back over the nut. With a floating system, a pull on the bar resets the strings back in place, an option that’s not available in down-bend only mode--you’ll have to bend each string one by one with your left hand in order to pull them back into place.
Probably one of the best videos to explain the proper setiing up of a tremolo (yes its a vibrato but tremolo is just the name that has stuck with it) and the springs are straight as they should be.
Just to mention, because it wasn't mentioned: If you block the vibrato with a piece of wood and take out the springs permanently, the strings are not grounded anymore, so you'd have to attach the grounding wire to the vibrato-block.
@@Healcraft you got my comment wrong: if you want to block the vibrato and take out all springs, then the strings won't be electrical connected to ground anymore, so you'd have to re-wire the grounding cable to have your strings electrically connected to ground...
of course you can tight the vibrato until nearly no action, but blocking it with wood also has a better soundconnection to the body and also no issues when changing strings. PS: I personally use my vibrato, if I did not want to, I'd block it and remove all springs @@Healcraft
Brilliant! This tutorial can be considered the gold standard for using UA-cam to its full potential to educate and provide useful knowledge. Extremely sound pedagogy!
Nice treatment of the Strat Trem/Vibrato. As primarily a blues cat, I always have set my bridge plate locked flat against the body. Arguably it makes for a fuller sound. That's my experience over doing this for 40+ years. Those that say it doesn't sound "right" are wrong IMHO, just not being used to the fuller depth of tone gained. Tuning issues are greatly reduced and my Strats (I have four) all have no issues with going out of tune easily. Peace, Love & Bobby Sherman! 😁
I also love fully floating for the extra sustain - hear me out ! As the bridge plate pushes into the screws a bit more I always find that the body may resonate less, but I get more net sustain out of the guitar
I think Darrell Braun has a video on exactly this, but his tests showed that the most sustain was blocked, followed by decked. I studied applied science and physics so I think I can explain why to my understanding. So when we talk sustain, we are actually talking about energy conservation, it's how long the string will continue to vibrate. When it vibrates, it is getting fractionally longer and shorter with each individual vibration (that's the frequency, Hz). Going between two fixed points means it will vibrate the longest, as it's not imparting any of this elastic energy moving those points closer together. A floating trem is held by spring tension balancing with the strings, it's the opposite of 2 fixed points. because the string is pulling against a spring rather than a fixed position, the energy in the string imparts some of this energy as a slightly stretch to the trem spring, and given back from the elastic energy stored in the trem spring when the string fractionally lengthens. BUT the trem doesn't give the elastic energy it absorbed back to the one played string, it imparts energy evenly to all the strings. That means (for atleast a single string played on its own) you get less sustain as a floating trem shares the energy it absorbed evenly between all the strings, as well as absorbing some itself (hence you get buzzing or ringing trem springs). Best way to visualise it I can think of is 6 ropes tied between a thick and a thin flexible tree. If you pull on one rope, the thin tree bends, the rest of the ropes slacken off and are under less/no tension. When you let go any elastic energy stored in the bent tree is released onto all the ropes and not just the rope you pulled on.
@@RelicOnMaui if you are talking about one spring being played and the others receiving energy from it then yup, but the correct term is energy transfer as it doesn't just go directly into momentum (kinetic and vibration are both examples of momentum). I might be misreading your comment so happy to chat if I have the wrong end of the stick?
I don't have a degree in physics, even if I sounded like a wanna be. I was actually thinking of an explanation of an old science toy (Newton's Cradle - it's on Wikipedia) - hanging steel balls - you swung one on one end and the other end moved, but the middle 3 remained stationary. if you swung two, only the outside two on the other side moved. Up to Four Fascinating. It's still in my parent's home (a museum) over 55 years later! @@Philter-Coffee
Nice presentation. Thank you. Just a note. You can save yourself a lot of time by inserting a tapered wedge between the trem block until you have the angle you need. This allows you to string the guitar and stretch the strings without the bridge moving. Once everything is set up, you tighten the string claws slowly & evenly until the wedge drops out. The equilibrium between the strings and springs will be balanced.
The best way to use a Strat trem is to give it to JAM Pedals and ask them to put a piezo on it and make it into a pedal! Then you can have the trem without needing the guitar! 😁
My man, we all already know you’re awesome. But when I saw the length of this video, i wasn’t sure it’d all be relevant. This is a completely comprehensive video, no fat on it - totally streamlined, top freaking shelf. Incredibly well done. Thanks for doing this for the community…I’m new to strats but been playing for 30 years, so this all was essential. Thank you my friend, cheers.
My Floating Gotoh 510 on my Suhr SSS is phenomenal. It honestly has: incredible tuning stability & return-to-pitch. This guitar made me sell my Vintage Fender Strat. Fantastic job with this Mick. "You got Forensic" with it !!!
I just got a Player Strat that I put a 510 on. It's such an exceptional trem. I can't say enough good things about it. I put the Fender locking tuners and replaced the string tree with a TUSQ version (cream). Good to go!
Agree 100%. Glad you are loving it. That Gotoh 510 is "Sick" ( it's Japanese ) = do they make Anything that isn't high-quality with great Attention to Detail?@@TomBailey
Hi Mick great video - bit of waffle below!👇 I’d like to highlight something about tuning stability both floating and decked; - A well set up and lubricated floating bridge can be incredibly tuning stable (when you eventually get it in tune) even with extreme abusive dive bombs, and if it hasn’t returned to pitch a quick pull up will get it perfectly reset. A quicker way to tune a floating trem is to work from the middle outwards so D, G, A, B, E, e. - It keeps the bridge more balanced side to side. - On a decked trem set up, when you dive bomb, many of the strings will go sharp, this due to the strings moving position slightly on the witness point of string on the saddles (it is definitely not binding in the nut, as you can lift the string up out of it, place it back, and it will still be sharp!) IMO decked is only really suitable for subtle and moderate vibrato. Seriously - check your tuning after a dive bomb, quite a few of the strings will now be higher in pitch. EVH found to mitigate this, he’d bend the strings to get them back in tune - then of course he eventually went Floyd Rose. Another thing with a decked trem is how much tension you apply to the strings, I personally like to set it so it only very minutely has clearance on a bend but not enough to mess up compound bends or make the Low E droop when bending a plain string.
For a floating bridge, what I’ve always done is this. Say you want the G string to pull up to a B♭, I wedge guitar picks between the guitar body and the bridge until the open note is B♭. With the picks still in place, I tune it up, set the intonation, string height etc. Basically, get the setup perfect. Lastly, release the screws on the spring claw until the picks become loose and/or fall out. The screws may need a fraction of a turn either way to get perfect, but this system works for me. And you can use the picks to then wedge the bridge in place while you change strings.
Thanks so much for another beautifully filmed and considered solo video Mick. Your attention to detail is second to none, and everything you say on the topic of Strat vibrato units resonates with anyone who's wrestled with the beast! I've played Stratocasters and Strat-style guitars since the mid 80s and for me the perfect setup is to have the vibrato set to float. I feel this is in the spirit of the design and sound of this model...to be able to use the bar to waver a note both above and below the neutral pitch. Of course as Mick points out, this leads to intonation issues when playing oblique bends where two or more stings are played and one is bent but the others not. Over the years I've gotten around this to some degree by applying a slight pressure on the bridge with the edge of my picking hand to mitigate it's rise from the bend. Or even slightly bending the "unbent" string with the fourth finger if it's a fretted note. Neither of these is foolproof or perfect but with practice, can work in the heat of battle!
Just got my strat back yesterday. My tech said 1way to tune a floating strat more efficiently tune g, d, b, a, high e low e. So far it's been working once the strings are stretched enough it will be a lot better. Til string change, but that's what he's for 😊. Great video as usual, you're one of my favorite stratoteers 🎸
I‘ve played Strats for over 20years and did all kinds of setups, the Carl Verheyen thing, the Yngwie thing, Eric Johnson etc… if you do it right the traditional 6 screw floating trem can work well. For other reasons I have switched to Single Cut Guitars a year ago and I am happier than I ever was with any type of Strat Style guitar. I just love the body, the mass of the bridge, no sticking out screws, the scale length, the neck shapes, the radius, just everything feels so much more natural for me. It just was my early love for the neck pu that teased me towards the Strat in my early days. But I could have avoid the countless mods I did to them over the years if had tried out LPs earlier. A little bit of topic but that how it went for me. Just if anyone feels the same… Everyone else just feel good with your Strats and enjoy.
That was excellent! I'd add that having your saddles straight and not all angled and so on helps, and if you ARE psychotic and must block your ... block, leave at least one spring to make your ground contact. I am also on the deck these days and do find a tone difference there, but it's hard to quantify it, it's a mids thing, and definitely a playability feel thing. I have experimented using pretty much all the methods you mentioned over the decades, but it's still fun setting one of them up for floating. I have found that once you get a feel for it, you can dial in anything on any strat style guitar with confidence. I'm a Burt's Bees lip balm convert and swear by it for lubricating the points of friction.
Finally got a floating setup to work nicely on my strat by setting it to lean forward a little bit. Stays in tune now! But doesn’t look like I want it to look. PS I cut some thin strips of light foam and pulled them into each spring using tweezers - Silent springs!!!
I came back to this video to say thanks. I saw this a couple of weeks ago because I couldn't get my floating trem with the right tension, and I took on board the recommendation of nut sauce. Just put it on the nut slots, string trees and saddles and already noticing how it holds its tuning after using the whammy bar. Thank you so much
Hi Mick, there is a way to install and tune a floating system without „back and forth“. You block the trem block in the position where you want to have it. Then you string and tune the guitar, bend the string like you would do with any guitar until it holds the tuning. Then you remove the block. Now you don’t restart tuning of the strings which would end up in the „back and forth“ which we all hate. Instead you work with the springs! Like you describe rightly it’s about the balance. You tighten or loosen the springs until the system is back in tune. That’s much faster. You only work with two screws instead of 6 tuners. If you find the right position and you use the same block, even complete string changes will work much faster. Try it out 😎
Brilliant video, thanks Mick. I'm a floating guy! One point that I'd add is that when you pick up a Strat that you've not played before, then don't use the trem until you've checked that the screws holding it down are slightly loose, otherwise you risk damaging the finish or even cracking the guitar. Brand new ones are often sent out with the screws tightened. A case in point is my CV 50s Strat. I had tried the guitar in the music shop, but didn't try the trem there, only setting it up when I got it home. In the event, it's a pretty cheap system, but I've got used to it so will probably never upgrade it. I wrap PTFE plumber's tape around the thread on the arm to take out the wobble. Another point: to get the saddle heights and grubscrews to your liking, it may be necessary to adjust the neck angle with a shim. One final point: in my opinion, Strats with six-screw bridges always have better tone than those with two-post bridges.
"Getting the guitar in tune with the bridge floating at the desired height may take some time and be a little frustrating". Not enough people say this, or show it. Once again a brilliant, patient video.
When I used a Strat back in the 1980's I set my Am Std guitar to float. I used a Hipshot TremSetter and used three 1mm picks under the rear of the bridge plate to hold it at 3mm. I set the TremSetter Zero point to 3mm.
17:00 You’ve got it exactly backwards, Mick. Titanium is both softer and less slippery than steel. If your principal aim is a low-friction bearing surface, then titanium is a worse choice than hardened steel, and will typically require compensating techniques such as lubrication.
Wow Mick, that is exactly what I needed ! Got my first strat last week and was scraching my head over vibrato options and how to tune or set her up properly. Each time I have a guitar related question, I go to TPS. And once again, you deliver the perfect answer... Bless you (and Dan obviously)
Thank you Mick! This info may be available other places, but you provide it in an easily digestible format with context and the little details that make all the difference. I was already planning to do a setup on my Strat, so this was perfect timing too. Thanks again!
![Let’s Talk About Fender Strats [Sounds, Bridge Setup, Pickups & More] - That Pedal Show](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/-ndkUzSGKNA/mqdefault.jpg)
Not one normally to comment .However the professional quality of your videos is astounding . The lighting , soft focus behind, the close ups, animation, stills, and content is on a par with any TV show. The audio is the best I hear on UA-cam ...But most of all I find your instruction, commentary and gems of information a treasure trove. Thank you Mick you are very talented and your humble attitude very endearing .
Thank you Paul. Very kind of you to say!
I second this! Excellent!
@@ThatPedalShowgonna be a sad day when you two no longer can do this... Hopefully all past episodes will be saved forever
Totally agree. Even if I already knew every bit of information in it, I would still watch the whole video just for the visual joy and appreciation of its quality in general
I watch some episodes twice, especially Mick's build and assembly videos. And anything Stratocaster and fuzz related of course😎
To avoid the back-and-forth process of balancing the spring tension I like the method taught in the StewMac book. Start with the springs loose which means loosening the claw a few turns. They suggest cutting a block of wood that keeps the trem stationary while the strings are brought to pitch and then you tighten the springs until the block releases and then it is balanced. This is a very quick and accurate method. Highly recommend getting the StewMac book on electric guitar set ups. It has changed everything for me.
That's exactly right. Saves hours of faff.
Thank you!
Thats how I do with the Floyd rose on my Ibanez
A couple points about the blocking off part. I experimented many years ago with different woods, and the harder the wood, the better the sustain was. So I found that an oak block was the best, didn’t have anything harder around the shop. Also, if you remove the springs, you also might sever the ground lead to the strings, as it’s soldered to the claw, so if you pull the springs and the claw, you need to connect the ground lead directly to the bridge.
There may be a ton of these videos online, but very few of this quality and patient detail of explanation. The graphical representations were a huge plus. Kudos for once again making high quality content.
Thank you kindly!
I agree, and would add: the information in this video is accurate. I've seen videos where the presenter lacks an understanding of balancing strings and springs, and makes incorrect statements. Mick clearly understands the physics, and puts it across well.
Excellent content. Im just getting started trying to learn the mechanics of a strat. This has been huge help
Mick, great video. I too have played Strats for over 35 years. My 1964 used to stay in perfect tune no matter how hard I dive bombed it. Then one day it started going out of tune and I was totally bewildered. I then went on the "how does this darn thing work" quest. Long story short, most of the sticking is at the top of the saddles. The tremolo was definitely originally designed by Leo to float 1/8" off of the body like Fender recommends. This puts the saddle tops at more of a perpendicular angle to the string/saddle contact and the body. Highwood Vintage Contour saddles completely solved all of my tuning issues because the groove is a perfect place to store some Teflon grease. When you deck your tremolo, the tuning stability decreases (when dive bombing) mainly because the break angle of the string increases on the top of the saddles and that last little movement of the saddle when the plate finally contacts the body, increases the friction on top of the saddle and the string sticks and pulls the string ever so slightly sharp when the saddle tilts backward (away from the nut). Wear grooves on the top of the vintage saddles definitely exacerbates this friction. It happens more on the plain strings because the winding on the bass strings tends to prevent the string from sticking. The groove and the grease completely eliminates that friction. Also, the groove in the Highwood has slightly more contact area where the string contacts the saddle top and reduces the sharpness of the contact area that you get on a vintage saddle. Some don't care for changing the tone by using the Highwoods but they do increase sustain slightly and I personally don't notice any tonal change, albeit ever so slight.
Ooooh, super interesting, thank you!
@@ThatPedalShow Mick, take a look at your patent application schematic (Fig. 4) and you will see what I mean. Notice that the saddles are perfectly perpendicular to the guitar body. This is by design and not just for good looks. You can see the full float which actually looks a little more than 1/8." It was designed for a nice, gentle 1956 warble. Leo didn't realize what his invention was capable of until Jimi Hendrix came along and broke all of its design barriers. I think Leo even commented something like "it was never designed to do that." Also notice that the string block is just about centered in the block route (Fig. 2) which restricts the amount of up and down movement possible when it is floating as designed. There are three places in the patent that mention "limited pivotal movement." That also kept the strings from sliding too much on the top of the saddles and kept them rolling gently over the crowns of the saddles. He must have had a heart attack when he saw Jimi jumping up and down on the whammy bar, lol. Nowadays, after Hendrix broke all the rules, we have excess string sliding, more friction, more string breakage, more string sticking, and more out-of-tune notes. I'm not sponsored by Highwood but they certainly made a saddle that addresses the friction problem and they weren't even designed to do that. It was a serendipitous side effect. They were originally designed to keep the height adjustment screws from sticking up excessively above the saddles and cutting your hands.
When you block the trem and remove the springs you also remove the connection from the strings to the ground wire. You might want to clamp a wire between the sustain block and the woodblock to reconnect it to the ground wire to prevent your weird noise. (Especially when your neighbor is a radio amateur)
Great point, I live next to one of those "HAM Radio" operators and the 3 story ‘tower’-aptly named-he uses for his worldwide shows?
Or just leave 1 spring connected...
This is a really important point, far more important than body cavity shielding with either conductive paint or copper foil.
Serious geeks can look into shock stopping resistors and the like...
Have fun.
The method which I've used when setting up a floating bridge (and that also helped with Floyd Rose):
1. Block the bridge going backwards with something at a height at which I prefer it set.
2. Tune the guitar (with strings already stretched)
3. Remove the thing that's been blocking the bridge and then adjust the screws in the claw (tighten or loosen them up) so that the guitar goes back in tune.
This method significantly reduces the time needed for the string tension to match the tension of the springs.
You have the correct method to set the tremolo to equalize ore perfectly match the pull of the strings. Using the vibrato arm after this setup the strings should always return to correct tuning.
Tuning tip - when you’re tuning a floating vibrato, it’s easier if you alternate from the outside in rather than tuning sequentially from low to high (or heavy gauge string to lighter gauge strings). So instead of tuning low e, then moving to the a string - go from the low e to the high e string, then the a string, then the b string, etc. I believe it’s something to do with balancing the impact of the heavier string gauges with getting the lighter gauge strings closer to their end point earlier. I think I read about this back in Dimebag Darrell’s column in Guitar World back in my Floyd Rose high school metal phase, but it’s a really handy trick and it works!
For Floyd rose-
Put a block of something under the rearward end to hold the bridge at your preferred angle without the strings.
Tighten the claw a bit.
Change strings.
Stretch, tune & lock down.
Remove the block and let the strings go sharp.
Loosen the claw till it’s back in tune and that’s where you had it before you started.
May sound complicated it’s quick and simple and always works.
I don’t use anything like a Floyd anymore but I did for years and this procedure cured me of many headaches. I could do it in 5-10 minutes.
@@leewalton6882 Tuning a FR without blocking it is much like punching yourself in the scrote.
@@michaeljarvis5489 maybe a bit less pointless… but yeah before I figured that out it was always a painful and frustrating not to mention protracted exercise. :-)
When I was younger, I always decked my trem. As I got older, I found that a well set up guitar with a floating trem is really fun.
I've played Strat's for 32 years, worked for various amp manufacturers and worked a stint in a shop as a guitar tech, still managed to learn two things from this video. Thanks :)
I've always set my Strats for down-bend only and will continue to do so, but I have mine set basically as a fail safe for a string break so the spring tension is just holding it flat against the body and there's minimal elasticity/effort for down-bends but if I break a string it's going nowhere.
Yep. Decades of guitar work here too, but though it has always been there, I rarely thought about how string BENDS effect ALL strings' pitch in a floating setup. Just as it effects them all when a string breaks
One tip for multi-string bends with a floating team. It is actually possible to do them in-tune. If you rest the back of your picking hand on the bridge, you can apply some counter-pressure to keep the bridge from getting pulled along with the bend.
One easy drill is to pick a note and while picking that note over and over, bend an adjacent string (no need to pick the ‘bent’ note during this drill) and listen to the note while applying pressure to the bridge. Varying the hand pressure by on the bridge, you can listen for how much pressure is needed to keep the note in-tune. You’ll soon develop a natural feel for how to counter the notes being pulled out of tune during an adjacent bend. 👍
Should've been obvious to me to use this technique.
Thanks for the tip.
Should've been obvious to me to use this technique.
Thanks for the tip.
that's the tip I need to read, thanks!
What I do with my vintage (6 screw) tremolo is watch the bridge as I slowly tighten the outside screws to when I see the back of the bridge start to raise, I stop and then turn the screws back a smidge.. I then tighten the 4 inner screws to where they are slightly looser than the 2 outer ones... Best tutorial I've seen so far on this topic. Thank you.
FULL FLOATING! The cons about string bending can be easily overcome by holding the bar still as you bend. Its a technique that takes a bit of getting used to, but once you get it, this technique can be used in other ways that can be extremely dynamic and interesting.
Better yet, bend with the bar.
@@GregorHoul you CAN just bend with the bar but it sounds different. If you want to bend one string while other unbent strings are ringing then you can't bend with the bar. The problem with the trem is that when you bend that one string the other unbent strings drop in pitch. This is why I hold the bar still. This bend should operate the way it does on a hard tail if you do it right. The best of both worlds.
I can answer one of your questions... in my city across twelve different musical stores... There is a total of one hardtail strat available for purchase. Robert cray signature series for $1600.... the only other hard tail advertised are custom shop versions for $4500.... so that should answer why people block their trem vs. Buying a hardboiled version 😅
I’ve never been a serious strat player, but I found this utterly fascinating. Thank you again for the time, effort and knowledge you’ve shared. Like always, TPS does not let us down 🙌
Left handed 1977 CBS Era Strat owner here! This video is awesomely detailed and I want to thank you for all this information. The screw height section is a point that I know I messed up years ago (screwed them in all the way thinging they were loose) and have never used my trem since...you are awesome!
A note on intonation and action when using a fully floating setup: Firstly, regardless of how you set your bridge-plate, the design of the strat bridge means that the pivot point is where the screws meet the back of the plate, and any adjustment in saddle height is not a perfectly up and down motion, it is a radius. This means that when you are adjusting your saddle height be mindful that you are also making an adjustment to your intonation (a small one but still). Ok on the topic of fully floating bridges... Since your bridge-plate is not parallel to the strings, any change in intonation will change your action; As the saddle moves further forward or back on the bridge-plate, it is also going up and down that "ramp". Just be mindful if you are setting up a fully floating bridge, that you will need to go back and forth, balancing your intonation screws and height adjustment screws until both are set correct, as changing one changes the other :)
That's why setting the bridge plate parallel to the strings is the recommended method for setting up full floating bridges. When the plate is parallel to the strings, changes in saddle height do not affect intonation and vica versa.
Next to female genetalia , the vintage vibrato is perhaps the most mysterious system known to man.
Good job on your demystification.
🇨🇦
Ha ha ha good one !! :D
A couple things you can do for string on string are: if the unbent string is being fretted, you can bend those strings slightly to bring them up to pitch, or if the strings are open you can use your picking hand to put pressure on the bridge so it doesn't come up with the bend. Neither are perfect but both help.
I have my trem fully floating. String changing is easy as long as you are happy with the original set up and are changing like for like in terms of string gauge. All I do is use a set of feeler gauges to wedge the bridge into position. Then I slacken off and replace the strings. Tuning to pitch is then quick as the springs in the guitar are pretensioned and the feeler gauge usually falls out when the strings are at the correct pitch.
I love a floating trem on a strat, very stable and musically expressive.
Strat Vibrato -
Is akin to balancing an egg on
a spoon while standing on a ball.
The other options are more stable.
I've tried everything on my 2-point tremolo on my Jet guitar, but it doesn't stay in tune when using the bar. Any tips?
@@ottolofstrom3896 Locking tuners.
I have the Callahan version. It stays in tune a treat. It pivots perfectly on the angled part, rather than wobbling around if that makes sense.
I can’t overstate how comprehensive and totally useful this video is. I’ve been playing strats since 1976. Finally settled on flat to body down bend only: I am not Beck and I play more easily and better with plate flat to body. I know I can’t flutter but I don’t need to. Many a sleepless night agonising. I have 3 strats now. All have trems flat to body. Each with different trem arm tension though. 😁👍🏼
It's a journey for all of us to find exactly what we prefer, and this video covers all the elements needed to fine tune one's bridge setup.
For me a slight bit of float (4 springs in back) and the slanted claw bar as used by Mr. Beck does the job.
Your tip about the tension of the bridge screws from a video quite a while ago really was a big step toward a perfect setup, the claw bar angle is another.
Experimenting with being fully decked vs amounts of float got me where I am very happy with the tone and feel.
Everything about TPS is why the internet exists, I can't thank you all enough for the info, entertainment, and feeling of community.
Huge thumbs up for all you do 👍
Enjoy the vacation time!
I have (and love) a 6-screw vintage bridge Mexican Strat... replacement vibrato bridges are difficult to find that drop in (because of the MIM screw spacing). New flat saddles from GraphTech are much more comfortable than stamped steel with exposed pokey allen screws, and a Tusq XL nut (and string trees) are also fantastic for nearly eliminating friction. Great video!!
by far the best explanation and critique of the Term/Vibrato setup ..... even better than fender could do ...thank you guys ....keep up the phenomenal work you do
I have a tremsetter installed on my Stratocaster for over 15 years now and it solved all my tuning problems! Great video! Thanks
Hey, Chums! Very comprehensive as usual! Possibly the best video I've ever seen about setting up the Strat vibrato. One tip when changing strings with a floating trem -- I typically place a pad of post-it notes under the bridge plate when changing the strings (of course the string package works well too). The benefit of using a pad of post-it notes is that I can remove pages of post-it notes to allow for a perfect fit under the bridge plate. Thanks for the great video!!
Great tip, thanks!
I love watching these vids, Mick. I would throw one hint out that I’ve used for my ~25 years of playing strats - If you’re just changing strings...not moving to a different setup, or setting up for the first time: Any variation of floating ‘trem’ - change your strings one-at-a-time - keeps your tension, and the whole balance in place. I’ve changed a whole set of strings in-between set breaks before, and I never have tuning issues when I do it this way.
It feels rude that we can watch this gloriously informative hour of exceptionally produced video for free.
Thankyou.
Mick’s wisdom is appreciated immensely. I own, 4 Tele’s, 2 Strats, & 1 Silver Sky SE. All the Vibrato bridges’ are set up; flush with the body. Though when I saw Jeff Beck in Nov of 2022 before he passed it definitely made me second guess myself.
For a fully floating trem a 3mm pad (wood, nylon or similar) as a temporary spacer between the body and trem plate will enable the strings to be brought to pitch more quickly as the string being tuned will affect the ones already fitted much less. Removing the spacer will cause the 'flying height' and tension in the strings to change as the springs are allowed to do their balance thing. But all the strings will be more in the ball park. Useful for changing single strings.
Replaced my springs with raw vintage, made a massive difference in stability and tone.
Snake oil springs ?😂
Brilliant. A subject that has been done to death but never this clearly or well presented. Thanks Mick.
You solved my Strat/Tremolo tuning issues i've had for a couple of years. Thank you Mick for a clear explanation of the mechanics of the Strat tremolo. Excellent.
Nice one Peter! Glad it was helpful - happy wobbles!
An oft ignored way to address the angle of the high strings over the nut is adjusting the height of the string tree(s) with spacers. I see a lot of "strats" where the tree(s) are screwed flush to the headstock, pulling the sharpest angle.
My first electric guitar was a MIM Strat in 2007. I always felt like it was a fight to get the guitar to work for me, causing me to eventually trade the guitar away and spend years playing exclusively fixed bridge alternatives before eventually drifting away from any type of playing.
After years of watching TPS, especially after several episodes of the Strat Vlog, I finally purchased a Strat again in early 2023. I have since tamed the wild beast and have a renewed love for not only the Strat, but playing guitar as a whole.
Cheers, and thanks for the quality content!
Only just started the video but I have to say the Frudua method from FruduaTv channel was all I ever needed to get my american strat to stay in tune. Not only does it stay in tune or reset easily with the trem bar, but you can adjust the claw a bit to get the Carl V intervals.
Or you can lock it down and enjoy a serviceable guitar just with less personality.
On my american I like it "free floating" except it can only be tightened by a tiny bit, I can divebomb down in pitch but I can raise pitch just enough to keep interesting wobbles that strats are known for
In regards to the spring harmonics, I just use a strip of soft foam across the springs and screw back on the back cover plate. Problem solved. Many Thanks for the episode!
Flat block is my preferred method on my MIJ Strat, I also put in some narrow plastic tubing inside the springs to stop the vibration/buzzing. This work on the floating setup as well
Great video. You really explained the whole process in detail. I decked the vibrato on my Strat 25 years ago and never looked back.
Mick does such a great job of capturing that yin-yang challenge of Strat setup. After a lot of years struggling with setting up guitars, I find I actually enjoy messing with that "tipping point" of a Strat trem and bridge. Even reminds me a little of messing with auto engine carburetors back in the day. Fun video.
Went along step by step while listening to great advice . This content is why UA-cam is the greatest resource on the internet . Thank you
I like mine floating. As long as you set it up right and make sure there are no sharp edges the only way it goes out is if you break the string, but you can mitigate that with fresh strings. Mine sustains great, sounds clearer to me, and stays in tune wonderfully. If you have trouble rub chapstick in the nut. Don’t be afraid to try floating, once you get used to it you’re good to go
Floating also sounds the best, IMO.
Thanks Mick. That was very informative. The method I use is to put a slimmer wood block on the opposite side ( spring side of the block). The advantage of this method is that it acts like the downward method that you showed but then you can adjust the size of the wooden block somehow that the bridge is parallel to the body and not sitting on it which result in ugly negative angle and possibly damaging your guitar finish on a long run. This would be very similar to installing the tremolo (vibrato!) stop in the springs cavity except that because of larger wooden contact surface you won’t hear the metal to metal sound of block resting on the metal screw (or stop bar) when you let go of the arm.
Just on the decked vibrato versus a hardtail, there is still a bit of that spring sound that you can't get with a hardtail.
I've been playing my Strats with a decked vibrato for years, but still love that vibe that the springs in the back give.
And regardless of how decked the vibrato is, it's never completely fastened to the body like a hardtail, so it always has a tiny bit of movement and give in it.
I personally prefer the vibrato decked because I'm often changing to different alternate and open tunings on my Strats, and I can bend or capo anywhere or anyhow with no concerns.
But I'd never go for a hardtail. There's still a vibe with a decked vibrato and springs banging around in the body.
Plus, if I just deck the bridge then I still get to pick the Strat I want without being limited to hardtails.
Great video though Mick, I enjoyed that!
Had this on in the background as I polished the frets and popped a new set of strings on my strat. Thanks for giving me things to double check in the process!
I've been scavenging the internet for many many years searching for information on strat setups. This is THE BEST video... It covers pretty much everything on tremolo setup. Thank you!
Holy moly! I've been tearing my hair out trying to sort out a strat with a flaky trem. Turns out the scratchplate was jammed against the bridge - THANK YOU!!!!
Some cheap string trees aren't bent/don't have a curve in them and it's really worth looking out for. On a good guitar (like your lovely original strat there) you can see the non-bent string tree is fitted at an angle to reduce friction. On some cheaper guitars (I found this recently on a road worn neck I got off ebay) sometimes you will find a non-curved string tree fitted at a flat angle designed for bent string trees. This makes tuning stability HORRENDOUS as the strings constantly bind on the string tree. Swapping to a bent/curved pure vintage string tree made a WORLD of difference. From a completely unusable trem to the best of any of my strats.
Also... WD-40 isn't a lubricant! It cleans but it doesn't lubricate! Stick to the pencil graphite! 😄
Love the vids!
Why are string trees even needed. It's the one part I don't think should be there at all. It's one more point of friction.
A tip for the final stage of floating the trem:
1) tune new and stretched strings to pitch
2) use post-it notes to stack under bridge (and raise) until the G string is tuned to the pitch you want your vibrato to acheive. (eg down half-step to F#)
3) with post-its still in place, tune all strings (including the G) to regular pitch
4) remove post-its. Guitar will be out of tune. Flip guitar over and tune by adjusting claw screws
This will save you so much back-and-forth tuning and it will be set up perfectly to your liking every time.
Here's how I float my Strats and I never go out of tune... Loosen the spring claw in the back and remove the springd. Take the bridge off, then take the saddles off the plate but keep them in order. Clean it with Windex, no dirt, dust or wax underneath or anywhere,. Clean and polish the body surface as well. Run a thin bead of Break-Free rifle lubricant along the fulcrum pivot point underneath the plate. Carefully place it back into the cavity, screw the six screws mostly in and add a wee bit of the lube right under the screw heads with a toothpick or such. Tighten them down but leave a tiny bit of daylight between the plate and screw head and set all six screws equally. Hook the springs back on and set the claw fairly tight. String it up and tune to pitch. Once the set-up is relatively done, put the whammy bar in and re-adjust the springs so that when you pull the trem up flush to the body, your G string pulls up to a perfect A. That may sound like a lot but it's really not, it's just enough clearance to wang without the plate banging againt the body. It's perfectly balanced and it's also a fun Page-like trick to pull the open G up to an A. I also add a smidgen of Blue Lok-Tite to the saddle height screws so they don't sink over time and remain stable. Of course there's more, like how the neck tenon is pitched in the neck pocket as you don't want the bridge saddles set too high or too low. And of course the nut slots, string trees and amount of wraps around the posts is another bucket of tweaks. If you want to set it flush/blocked like Hendrix, Clapton, SRV, pre-80's Gilmour, ect... you'll have to back-pitch the neck tenon with a shim or neck-tilt adjustment so that the saddles aren't jacked up too high. I've even gone as far as sanding out the neck pockets on most of my Fenders to get the action right (Slightly tilted down on the low E side) but that's risky if you're not a luthier. Oh yeah, 4 or 5 springs will feel/sound more surfy and springy, and 3 springs or 3 in a V-shape came about in the 80's with Floyd Roses, ultra-light strings, shredding and dive bombs and such. It's a more modern feel. The good news is once you set everything right, it should be good for years with minimal tweaks. :D
Thanks!
1. You say you set all 6 screws with a minimal gap?
2. My 50s type vibrato is hard as fuck to operate, even with just 2 springs. Any ides why? I have 9-42 strings on.
Try getting some raw vintage springs. They are much better tension and comfortable to run with 4 or 5 springs. Most of the modern strings are much higher tension. Also found tuning stability better with them. Those plus Callahan are best combo I’ve found - damn near impossible to knock out of tune once string broken in
@@andersestes It's hard to say, have to see what's going on but it was never designed for 2 springs. Could be bad springs. I've seen weird things like that. Gibson was shipping some of their guitars with Floyd Roses about 12 years ago and they were a disaster. Turned out weak springs was the problem.
@@andersestes Yes, I read that in the 90's in a guitar magazine interview with Richie Blackmore saying what his tech did.
So glad you took the time to share your experience. Setting string height would be awesome.
Thanks so much.
Nathan
Really quality video! Expertly written and taught. Well done!
Wonderful, Mick! I've had my Strat for 33 years, and this is the most helpful information I've seen in one place. Thank you!
Great video. As a Strat owner, always appreciate the info!
Following your lead here, and my mexican made strat has never sounded better, not to mention how well it now keeps its tuning. That fully floating setup is marvelous.
There is a big con to a floating vibrato that you failed to mention. This con may be specific to me and how I play but I would suspect it's likely quite common and that is that I tend to rest my hand on the bridge. The result is that even the slightest bit of downward pressure on the bridge will noticeably impact the tuning. As I said, this playing "style" may be particular to me but I suspect it's a much more common position.
Yes, same with me. I tend to rest my hand on the bridge, and while I have a Floyd Rose system, it has three same effect.
BTW, I thought I wanted a FR, but I hate it!
I'm seriously considering taking the "clamp" part off of the nut, and replacing the nut with a GraphTek one.
I really hate it, it makes it a pain to change anything, and it's totally unnecessary.
A properly setup and maintained Strat-type trem (vibrato) is fine.
The trick is to rest you hand closer to the pivot point. If yuu're on a Strat type trem, you may want to change saddle screws if they stick up high and are sharp. In the long run, you'll want to refine your technique, so you don't put excessive pressure on the bridge.
@@jeffro. You can carry a Floyd Rose equipped guitar around by just the whammy bar and it won't go out of tune. It's a double locking system. The string is clamped at the bridge and nut and can't slip. The locknut is the clamp at the nut end. It's necessary for that level of tuning stability. Double locking systems are the only type of trem that can't go out of tune. Floyd Rose is the most common design for guitars with headstock mounted tuners. The Steinberger "R" trem design is a common aftermarket trem for headless guitars. I actually put locknuts on the vast majority of my guitars builds. With a locknut, all tuning stability issues on the headstock end of the guitar go away.
Informative, excellent for those not familiar with the original. Kudos to using Curt Mangan Strings, they're all I've used since 2003
Great content, the pedagogy and attention to detail are perfectly calibrated. Also that copper Strat is gorgeous :)
Been playing guitar for over 45 years and have never owned a Strat or any other style of guitar with a vibrato. Methinks it's high time to get a Strat style guitar... now that you've made it very clear on how to set up a vibrato system that'll stay in tune (relatively speaking). Thanks Mick!!!
Now adopted by plumbers for sealing joints, PTFE "Perfect Trem For Everyone" tape was developed in Leo's laboratory as a solution to whammy bar thread issues.
I tried do that, but it never seems to last long. These days I use a spring in there.
PTFE was discovered in 1938 by a DuPont chemist. It was used in 1942 to make corrosion resistant components for the atomic bomb. Leo's big claim to fame was bringing Ford assembly line type manufacturing to the guitar building business.
@@Les537 Yep, I do as well, however in some trem equipped guitars, (Squiers, some Pacificas), the block is drilled through at the trem bar channel, so you can't use a spring in there. What really annoys me though, is why we should have to resort to remedying an inherent fault in the threading of the block/bar ratio. I mean when you screw a bolt into a nut in any other situation, the resulting union is rock solid! So why are trem units so slack!!! Aghhh...
To avoid the "back-and-forth" when tuning a full float setup: Block the trem so it won't pull up. Tighten the claw slightly (1/2 a turn). The guitar is now locked in hardtail mode. Restring and tune up. If the trem starts to move while tuning, tighten the claw a bit more. Remove the block - the strings will all go slightly sharp. Loosen the claw until the strings drop back to correct pitch. Works for full float Strat as well as Floyd Rose type trems. The Steinberger "R" trem actually has a built-in hardtail lock and uses a thumbscrew for the spring to make re-strings a breeze.
Spring stiffness can also affect how many springs. I run 8's on all my guitar builds. Some can get away with two springs, and some need five (weaker) springs.
Great vid as everr, many thanks. I was a luthier for many years and must have worked on at least a billion Strats - would have liked access to this vid 30 years ago. It's everything I learned about Strat trems (yes, vibratos ) presented and explained with an ease and facility I could never quite muster... Quick tip RE using a pencil to lubricate the nut: An HB pencil is 50% graphite, 50% clay. The softer the pencil, the greater the graphite content; from memory a 1B pencil has a greater graphite content, than the HB up to 9B which is 90% graphite. 100% graphite sticks are readily available from art suppliers for next to no money and are noticably better than the pencil based competition. For my money 100% graphite trumps nut sauce etc, but that's just me. I find a mix of 100% graphite stick and vaseline an excellent string tree lubricant, having sanded and contoured the leading/trailing edges to taste. Name brands are all well and good, but there's usually a cheap alternative. IME the cheapo chango is as good as if not better...
That one string ringing while another is bent, is why SRV used five springs, along with matching the tension of the heavier strings. I love hearing the springs! Been a Strat player for around 60 years ... Half the fun of playing a Strat is using that gear shifter! I'm sure you will get to it somewhere in this video, but much of the tunability of this and all other guitars with vibratos, is having a properly cut nut for the gauge of strings you are using, along with a good nut lube ... Always good to use a small flathead to apply it to the underside of the string tree.
EDIT: Also ... Give Raw Vintage springs a hard look ... they are not expensive, easy to change with a long flathead screwdriver, and will make playing a Stratocaster a lot easier.
Strat video. Hurrah.
Great topic. Great video. My first electric was a used Black '76 Strat in '77. I used to double a matchbook cover under the back of my bridge to set heigth and leave the screws a little loose.
Pending a decently balanced floating setup and a stable neck, it’s IMO the down-bend only setup that’s least tuning-stable: When the strings loosen during a down-bend, the strings slide towards the tuners’ posts, over the nut, and when they re-tighten, towards the end of the down-bend, the nut friction will impair their sliding back over the nut.
With a floating system, a pull on the bar resets the strings back in place, an option that’s not available in down-bend only mode--you’ll have to bend each string one by one with your left hand in order to pull them back into place.
Tuning stability with one direction of bending, vs tuning stability with two directions of bending?
There's the hole in the argument
@@glennlilley8608 No, there isn’t.
@@GregorHoul suit y'rsen
Probably one of the best videos to explain the proper setiing up of a tremolo (yes its a vibrato but tremolo is just the name that has stuck with it) and the springs are straight as they should be.
Just to mention, because it wasn't mentioned:
If you block the vibrato with a piece of wood and take out the springs permanently, the strings are not grounded anymore, so you'd have to attach the grounding wire to the vibrato-block.
That is an important point! Especially since Strats don't use noise-cancelling (dual coil /humbucking) pickups!
i usually just put 4-5 springs and dont block it, does blocking really do anything if its already tight?
@@Healcraft you got my comment wrong: if you want to block the vibrato and take out all springs, then the strings won't be electrical connected to ground anymore, so you'd have to re-wire the grounding cable to have your strings electrically connected to ground...
no i got it right but I was just asking something else @@owl-pan
of course you can tight the vibrato until nearly no action, but blocking it with wood also has a better soundconnection to the body and also no issues when changing strings. PS: I personally use my vibrato, if I did not want to, I'd block it and remove all springs @@Healcraft
Brilliant! This tutorial can be considered the gold standard for using UA-cam to its full potential to educate and provide useful knowledge. Extremely sound pedagogy!
For those (like me) that most prefer the floating bridge, but want more tuning stability, try a trem-setter!
Is that better than a ‘tremel-no’? Curious
I don't know but it works...I think Vai uses the trem setter too...
I've only fitted one once to a customer guitar and it works.
Nice treatment of the Strat Trem/Vibrato. As primarily a blues cat, I always have set my bridge plate locked flat against the body. Arguably it makes for a fuller sound. That's my experience over doing this for 40+ years. Those that say it doesn't sound "right" are wrong IMHO, just not being used to the fuller depth of tone gained. Tuning issues are greatly reduced and my Strats (I have four) all have no issues with going out of tune easily. Peace, Love & Bobby Sherman! 😁
I also love fully floating for the extra sustain - hear me out ! As the bridge plate pushes into the screws a bit more I always find that the body may resonate less, but I get more net sustain out of the guitar
Yah I can see that for sure.
I think Darrell Braun has a video on exactly this, but his tests showed that the most sustain was blocked, followed by decked. I studied applied science and physics so I think I can explain why to my understanding.
So when we talk sustain, we are actually talking about energy conservation, it's how long the string will continue to vibrate. When it vibrates, it is getting fractionally longer and shorter with each individual vibration (that's the frequency, Hz). Going between two fixed points means it will vibrate the longest, as it's not imparting any of this elastic energy moving those points closer together. A floating trem is held by spring tension balancing with the strings, it's the opposite of 2 fixed points. because the string is pulling against a spring rather than a fixed position, the energy in the string imparts some of this energy as a slightly stretch to the trem spring, and given back from the elastic energy stored in the trem spring when the string fractionally lengthens. BUT the trem doesn't give the elastic energy it absorbed back to the one played string, it imparts energy evenly to all the strings. That means (for atleast a single string played on its own) you get less sustain as a floating trem shares the energy it absorbed evenly between all the strings, as well as absorbing some itself (hence you get buzzing or ringing trem springs).
Best way to visualise it I can think of is 6 ropes tied between a thick and a thin flexible tree. If you pull on one rope, the thin tree bends, the rest of the ropes slacken off and are under less/no tension. When you let go any elastic energy stored in the bent tree is released onto all the ropes and not just the rope you pulled on.
kenetic/vibrational TRANSFERENCE? @@Philter-Coffee
@@RelicOnMaui if you are talking about one spring being played and the others receiving energy from it then yup, but the correct term is energy transfer as it doesn't just go directly into momentum (kinetic and vibration are both examples of momentum). I might be misreading your comment so happy to chat if I have the wrong end of the stick?
I don't have a degree in physics, even if I sounded like a wanna be. I was actually thinking of an explanation of an old science toy (Newton's Cradle - it's on Wikipedia) - hanging steel balls - you swung one on one end and the other end moved, but the middle 3 remained stationary. if you swung two, only the outside two on the other side moved. Up to Four Fascinating. It's still in my parent's home (a museum) over 55 years later! @@Philter-Coffee
Nice presentation. Thank you. Just a note. You can save yourself a lot of time by inserting a tapered wedge between the trem block until you have the angle you need. This allows you to string the guitar and stretch the strings without the bridge moving. Once everything is set up, you tighten the string claws slowly & evenly until the wedge drops out. The equilibrium between the strings and springs will be balanced.
The best way to use a Strat trem is to give it to JAM Pedals and ask them to put a piezo on it and make it into a pedal! Then you can have the trem without needing the guitar! 😁
My man, we all already know you’re awesome. But when I saw the length of this video, i wasn’t sure it’d all be relevant. This is a completely comprehensive video, no fat on it - totally streamlined, top freaking shelf. Incredibly well done. Thanks for doing this for the community…I’m new to strats but been playing for 30 years, so this all was essential. Thank you my friend, cheers.
Thank you Jason!
My Floating Gotoh 510 on my Suhr SSS is phenomenal. It honestly has: incredible tuning stability & return-to-pitch. This guitar made me sell my Vintage Fender Strat. Fantastic job with this Mick. "You got Forensic" with it !!!
I just got a Player Strat that I put a 510 on. It's such an exceptional trem. I can't say enough good things about it. I put the Fender locking tuners and replaced the string tree with a TUSQ version (cream). Good to go!
Agree 100%. Glad you are loving it. That Gotoh 510 is "Sick" ( it's Japanese ) = do they make Anything that isn't high-quality with great Attention to Detail?@@TomBailey
Hi Mick great video - bit of waffle below!👇
I’d like to highlight something about tuning stability both floating and decked;
- A well set up and lubricated floating bridge can be incredibly tuning stable (when you eventually get it in tune) even with extreme abusive dive bombs, and if it hasn’t returned to pitch a quick pull up will get it perfectly reset.
A quicker way to tune a floating trem is to work from the middle outwards so D, G, A, B, E, e. - It keeps the bridge more balanced side to side.
- On a decked trem set up, when you dive bomb, many of the strings will go sharp, this due to the strings moving position slightly on the witness point of string on the saddles (it is definitely not binding in the nut, as you can lift the string up out of it, place it back, and it will still be sharp!)
IMO decked is only really suitable for subtle and moderate vibrato. Seriously - check your tuning after a dive bomb, quite a few of the strings will now be higher in pitch.
EVH found to mitigate this, he’d bend the strings to get them back in tune - then of course he eventually went Floyd Rose.
Another thing with a decked trem is how much tension you apply to the strings, I personally like to set it so it only very minutely has clearance on a bend but not enough to mess up compound bends or make the Low E droop when bending a plain string.
The most thorough and intelligent video on Strat setup, by far.
For a floating bridge, what I’ve always done is this.
Say you want the G string to pull up to a B♭, I wedge guitar picks between the guitar body and the bridge until the open note is B♭.
With the picks still in place, I tune it up, set the intonation, string height etc. Basically, get the setup perfect.
Lastly, release the screws on the spring claw until the picks become loose and/or fall out.
The screws may need a fraction of a turn either way to get perfect, but this system works for me.
And you can use the picks to then wedge the bridge in place while you change strings.
If you block the trem and remove the springs and the claw, the string ground will be ineffective. Full floating for me ala Carl Verheyen
Thanks so much for another beautifully filmed and considered solo video Mick. Your attention to detail is second to none, and everything you say on the topic of Strat vibrato units resonates with anyone who's wrestled with the beast! I've played Stratocasters and Strat-style guitars since the mid 80s and for me the perfect setup is to have the vibrato set to float. I feel this is in the spirit of the design and sound of this model...to be able to use the bar to waver a note both above and below the neutral pitch. Of course as Mick points out, this leads to intonation issues when playing oblique bends where two or more stings are played and one is bent but the others not. Over the years I've gotten around this to some degree by applying a slight pressure on the bridge with the edge of my picking hand to mitigate it's rise from the bend. Or even slightly bending the "unbent" string with the fourth finger if it's a fretted note. Neither of these is foolproof or perfect but with practice, can work in the heat of battle!
I solved the floating Strat vibrato issues: I bought a Jazzmaster.
Luckily... The Jazzmaster and its trem has its own quirky bits and bobs to fuss with and best practice debates... 🤘🏻😝
They seem to have better tuning. But lack sustain. I would rather have the sustain personally. I mean the strat sustain is already weak.
@@DonFonzarelli-uq9yxThat's why you use a compressor pedal ala John Mayer. The strat really comes alive with any compressor between it and the amp.
Just got my strat back yesterday. My tech said 1way to tune a floating strat more efficiently tune g, d, b, a, high e low e. So far it's been working once the strings are stretched enough it will be a lot better. Til string change, but that's what he's for 😊.
Great video as usual, you're one of my favorite stratoteers 🎸
I blocked off my strat and kept the springs in.
I did that, and after a decade or more took it to a luthier to set up as original float trem. Stayed in tune for a week or so, then it went wonky?
I‘ve played Strats for over 20years and did all kinds of setups, the Carl Verheyen thing, the Yngwie thing, Eric Johnson etc… if you do it right the traditional 6 screw floating trem can work well.
For other reasons I have switched to Single Cut Guitars a year ago and I am happier than I ever was with any type of Strat Style guitar. I just love the body, the mass of the bridge, no sticking out screws, the scale length, the neck shapes, the radius, just everything feels so much more natural for me.
It just was my early love for the neck pu that teased me towards the Strat in my early days. But I could have avoid the countless mods I did to them over the years if had tried out LPs earlier.
A little bit of topic but that how it went for me. Just if anyone feels the same…
Everyone else just feel good with your Strats and enjoy.
That was excellent! I'd add that having your saddles straight and not all angled and so on helps, and if you ARE psychotic and must block your ... block, leave at least one spring to make your ground contact. I am also on the deck these days and do find a tone difference there, but it's hard to quantify it, it's a mids thing, and definitely a playability feel thing. I have experimented using pretty much all the methods you mentioned over the decades, but it's still fun setting one of them up for floating. I have found that once you get a feel for it, you can dial in anything on any strat style guitar with confidence. I'm a Burt's Bees lip balm convert and swear by it for lubricating the points of friction.
Finally got a floating setup to work nicely on my strat by setting it to lean forward a little bit. Stays in tune now! But doesn’t look like I want it to look. PS I cut some thin strips of light foam and pulled them into each spring using tweezers - Silent springs!!!
I came back to this video to say thanks. I saw this a couple of weeks ago because I couldn't get my floating trem with the right tension, and I took on board the recommendation of nut sauce. Just put it on the nut slots, string trees and saddles and already noticing how it holds its tuning after using the whammy bar. Thank you so much
Nice one Marc! So glad it’s working for you. Wobble on sir!
Bravo, Mick....Bravo!
Thank you so much for putting the time and effort into bringing this to us. Your content is second to none!!
Hi Mick, there is a way to install and tune a floating system without „back and forth“. You block the trem block in the position where you want to have it. Then you string and tune the guitar, bend the string like you would do with any guitar until it holds the tuning. Then you remove the block. Now you don’t restart tuning of the strings which would end up in the „back and forth“ which we all hate. Instead you work with the springs! Like you describe rightly it’s about the balance. You tighten or loosen the springs until the system is back in tune.
That’s much faster. You only work with two screws instead of 6 tuners. If you find the right position and you use the same block, even complete string changes will work much faster.
Try it out 😎
Maybe Carl Verheyen would be a good guest to show this.
Great vid !! Really enjoyed it ,I have the same 35 years of loving and battling with trems ,they have a mind of their own ! X
Great instructional video Mick.Ive been a Luthier for quite a while now. Self taught,and you’ve pretty much nailed it
Brilliant video, thanks Mick. I'm a floating guy! One point that I'd add is that when you pick up a Strat that you've not played before, then don't use the trem until you've checked that the screws holding it down are slightly loose, otherwise you risk damaging the finish or even cracking the guitar. Brand new ones are often sent out with the screws tightened. A case in point is my CV 50s Strat. I had tried the guitar in the music shop, but didn't try the trem there, only setting it up when I got it home. In the event, it's a pretty cheap system, but I've got used to it so will probably never upgrade it. I wrap PTFE plumber's tape around the thread on the arm to take out the wobble.
Another point: to get the saddle heights and grubscrews to your liking, it may be necessary to adjust the neck angle with a shim.
One final point: in my opinion, Strats with six-screw bridges always have better tone than those with two-post bridges.
"Getting the guitar in tune with the bridge floating at the desired height may take some time and be a little frustrating". Not enough people say this, or show it. Once again a brilliant, patient video.
When I used a Strat back in the 1980's I set my Am Std guitar to float. I used a Hipshot TremSetter and used three 1mm picks under the rear of the bridge plate to hold it at 3mm. I set the TremSetter Zero point to 3mm.
Mick has the natural ability to keep the student engaged in the subject matter at hand.
17:00 You’ve got it exactly backwards, Mick. Titanium is both softer and less slippery than steel. If your principal aim is a low-friction bearing surface, then titanium is a worse choice than hardened steel, and will typically require compensating techniques such as lubrication.
Wow Mick, that is exactly what I needed ! Got my first strat last week and was scraching my head over vibrato options and how to tune or set her up properly. Each time I have a guitar related question, I go to TPS. And once again, you deliver the perfect answer... Bless you (and Dan obviously)
Thank you Mick! This info may be available other places, but you provide it in an easily digestible format with context and the little details that make all the difference. I was already planning to do a setup on my Strat, so this was perfect timing too. Thanks again!