The Perfect Stratocaster Trem / Vibrato Setup [Floating, Flat Or Blocked?]
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- Опубліковано 13 тра 2024
- Six-saddle and two-post Fender Stratocaster vibratos - here are three ways to get them working as you want
Welcome to the show! Something a bit different this week as Dan and I ease into a little bit of summer vacation time. A different headspace, if you will.
Now then, I know this has been done to death online but we still get asked for it a lot: just how do you get your traditional Fender Stratocaster vibrato to work (or not work) and stay in tune?
Thusly, this is a personal take on how to approach it, gleaned from years of learning from professional players and techs. It’s highly unlikely there’s any new information here, but I’m taking it slow and doing it in real time so you can see exactly what happens with every adjustment of spring, screw and post.
These methods work for me, I hope they help you and your guitar!
The sounds today are various combinations of the Dan Drive Secret Machine, Kingsley Juggler Mk3, Free The Tone Future Factory Delay, Chase Bliss Audio CXM1973 Reverb and my Two-Rock Classic Reverb Signature head and 212 cab.
I mention Trev Wilkinson a lot - find the company’s wares here: wilkinsondirect.com/
Enjoy the show…
And please visit That Pedal Shop www.thatpedalshop.com/
Interesting bits and go-to sections
0:00 Intro & welcome
1:07 The three setups today
1:49 Pros & cons of the three setups
6:10 The two types of vibrato bridge explained
7:55 How it works and component parts
9:50 Differences between six-screw & two-post
11:42 Should the two-post vibrato touch the guitar?
13:06 Set up to float
19:45 The main problem of the six-saddle bridge
21:52 Front height of the two-point bridge?
23:46 String up & stretch
25:53 How many springs?
27:13 Back height of the bridge?
28:10 How to get it to balance
37:50 Action & intonation?
38:55 Mechanical sympathy
40:07 A note on the two-point
40:45 Set up to down-bend only
46:34 Set up for no movement
47:35 Block it off?
49:05 Hear the springs?
50:35 Arm length & fit?
53:00 Final thoughts - the right way?
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Not one normally to comment .However the professional quality of your videos is astounding . The lighting , soft focus behind, the close ups, animation, stills, and content is on a par with any TV show. The audio is the best I hear on UA-cam ...But most of all I find your instruction, commentary and gems of information a treasure trove. Thank you Mick you are very talented and your humble attitude very endearing .
Thank you Paul. Very kind of you to say!
I second this! Excellent!
@@ThatPedalShowgonna be a sad day when you two no longer can do this... Hopefully all past episodes will be saved forever
Totally agree. Even if I already knew every bit of information in it, I would still watch the whole video just for the visual joy and appreciation of its quality in general
I watch some episodes twice, especially Mick's build and assembly videos. And anything Stratocaster and fuzz related of course😎
There may be a ton of these videos online, but very few of this quality and patient detail of explanation. The graphical representations were a huge plus. Kudos for once again making high quality content.
Thank you kindly!
I agree, and would add: the information in this video is accurate. I've seen videos where the presenter lacks an understanding of balancing strings and springs, and makes incorrect statements. Mick clearly understands the physics, and puts it across well.
Tuning tip - when you’re tuning a floating vibrato, it’s easier if you alternate from the outside in rather than tuning sequentially from low to high (or heavy gauge string to lighter gauge strings). So instead of tuning low e, then moving to the a string - go from the low e to the high e string, then the a string, then the b string, etc. I believe it’s something to do with balancing the impact of the heavier string gauges with getting the lighter gauge strings closer to their end point earlier. I think I read about this back in Dimebag Darrell’s column in Guitar World back in my Floyd Rose high school metal phase, but it’s a really handy trick and it works!
A couple points about the blocking off part. I experimented many years ago with different woods, and the harder the wood, the better the sustain was. So I found that an oak block was the best, didn’t have anything harder around the shop. Also, if you remove the springs, you also might sever the ground lead to the strings, as it’s soldered to the claw, so if you pull the springs and the claw, you need to connect the ground lead directly to the bridge.
Strat video. Hurrah.
When you block the trem and remove the springs you also remove the connection from the strings to the ground wire. You might want to clamp a wire between the sustain block and the woodblock to reconnect it to the ground wire to prevent your weird noise. (Especially when your neighbor is a radio amateur)
Great point, I live next to one of those "HAM Radio" operators and the 3 story ‘tower’-aptly named-he uses for his worldwide shows?
Or just leave 1 spring connected...
To avoid the back-and-forth process of balancing the spring tension I like the method taught in the StewMac book. Start with the springs loose which means loosening the claw a few turns. They suggest cutting a block of wood that keeps the trem stationary while the strings are brought to pitch and then you tighten the springs until the block releases and then it is balanced. This is a very quick and accurate method. Highly recommend getting the StewMac book on electric guitar set ups. It has changed everything for me.
That's exactly right. Saves hours of faff.
Thank you!
Thats how I do with the Floyd rose on my Ibanez
When I was younger, I always decked my trem. As I got older, I found that a well set up guitar with a floating trem is really fun.
I love a floating trem on a strat, very stable and musically expressive.
Strat Vibrato -
Is akin to balancing an egg on
a spoon while standing on a ball.
The other options are more stable.
I've tried everything on my 2-point tremolo on my Jet guitar, but it doesn't stay in tune when using the bar. Any tips?
Pending a decently balanced floating setup and a stable neck, it’s IMO the down-bend only setup that’s least tuning-stable: When the strings loosen during a down-bend, the strings slide towards the tuners’ posts, over the nut, and when they re-tighten, towards the end of the down-bend, the nut friction will impair their sliding back over the nut.
With a floating system, a pull on the bar resets the strings back in place, an option that’s not available in down-bend only mode--you’ll have to bend each string one by one with your left hand in order to pull them back into place.
FULL FLOATING! The cons about string bending can be easily overcome by holding the bar still as you bend. Its a technique that takes a bit of getting used to, but once you get it, this technique can be used in other ways that can be extremely dynamic and interesting.
Just ordered myself a strat, so this was a fun one to watch!
One tip for multi-string bends with a floating team. It is actually possible to do them in-tune. If you rest the back of your picking hand on the bridge, you can apply some counter-pressure to keep the bridge from getting pulled along with the bend.
One easy drill is to pick a note and while picking that note over and over, bend an adjacent string (no need to pick the ‘bent’ note during this drill) and listen to the note while applying pressure to the bridge. Varying the hand pressure by on the bridge, you can listen for how much pressure is needed to keep the note in-tune. You’ll soon develop a natural feel for how to counter the notes being pulled out of tune during an adjacent bend. 👍
Should've been obvious to me to use this technique.
Thanks for the tip.
Should've been obvious to me to use this technique.
Thanks for the tip.
that's the tip I need to read, thanks!
It feels rude that we can watch this gloriously informative hour of exceptionally produced video for free.
Thankyou.
I've played Strat's for 32 years, worked for various amp manufacturers and worked a stint in a shop as a guitar tech, still managed to learn two things from this video. Thanks :)
I've always set my Strats for down-bend only and will continue to do so, but I have mine set basically as a fail safe for a string break so the spring tension is just holding it flat against the body and there's minimal elasticity/effort for down-bends but if I break a string it's going nowhere.
Yep. Decades of guitar work here too, but though it has always been there, I rarely thought about how string BENDS effect ALL strings' pitch in a floating setup. Just as it effects them all when a string breaks
Mick, great video. I too have played Strats for over 35 years. My 1964 used to stay in perfect tune no matter how hard I dive bombed it. Then one day it started going out of tune and I was totally bewildered. I then went on the "how does this darn thing work" quest. Long story short, most of the sticking is at the top of the saddles. The tremolo was definitely originally designed by Leo to float 1/8" off of the body like Fender recommends. This puts the saddle tops at more of a perpendicular angle to the string/saddle contact and the body. Highwood Vintage Contour saddles completely solved all of my tuning issues because the groove is a perfect place to store some Teflon grease. When you deck your tremolo, the tuning stability decreases (when dive bombing) mainly because the break angle of the string increases on the top of the saddles and that last little movement of the saddle when the plate finally contacts the body, increases the friction on top of the saddle and the string sticks and pulls the string ever so slightly sharp when the saddle tilts backward (away from the nut). Wear grooves on the top of the vintage saddles definitely exacerbates this friction. It happens more on the plain strings because the winding on the bass strings tends to prevent the string from sticking. The groove and the grease completely eliminates that friction. Also, the groove in the Highwood has slightly more contact area where the string contacts the saddle top and reduces the sharpness of the contact area that you get on a vintage saddle. Some don't care for changing the tone by using the Highwoods but they do increase sustain slightly and I personally don't notice any tonal change, albeit ever so slight.
Ooooh, super interesting, thank you!
@@ThatPedalShow Mick, take a look at your patent application schematic (Fig. 4) and you will see what I mean. Notice that the saddles are perfectly perpendicular to the guitar body. This is by design and not just for good looks. You can see the full float which actually looks a little more than 1/8." It was designed for a nice, gentle 1956 warble. Leo didn't realize what his invention was capable of until Jimi Hendrix came along and broke all of its design barriers. I think Leo even commented something like "it was never designed to do that." Also notice that the string block is just about centered in the block route (Fig. 2) which restricts the amount of up and down movement possible when it is floating as designed. There are three places in the patent that mention "limited pivotal movement." That also kept the strings from sliding too much on the top of the saddles and kept them rolling gently over the crowns of the saddles. He must have had a heart attack when he saw Jimi jumping up and down on the whammy bar, lol. Nowadays, after Hendrix broke all the rules, we have excess string sliding, more friction, more string breakage, more string sticking, and more out-of-tune notes. I'm not sponsored by Highwood but they certainly made a saddle that addresses the friction problem and they weren't even designed to do that. It was a serendipitous side effect. They were originally designed to keep the height adjustment screws from sticking up excessively above the saddles and cutting your hands.
The method which I've used when setting up a floating bridge (and that also helped with Floyd Rose):
1. Block the bridge going backwards with something at a height at which I prefer it set.
2. Tune the guitar (with strings already stretched)
3. Remove the thing that's been blocking the bridge and then adjust the screws in the claw (tighten or loosen them up) so that the guitar goes back in tune.
This method significantly reduces the time needed for the string tension to match the tension of the springs.
You have the correct method to set the tremolo to equalize ore perfectly match the pull of the strings. Using the vibrato arm after this setup the strings should always return to correct tuning.
Mick has the natural ability to keep the student engaged in the subject matter at hand.
I’ve never been a serious strat player, but I found this utterly fascinating. Thank you again for the time, effort and knowledge you’ve shared. Like always, TPS does not let us down 🙌
A note on intonation and action when using a fully floating setup: Firstly, regardless of how you set your bridge-plate, the design of the strat bridge means that the pivot point is where the screws meet the back of the plate, and any adjustment in saddle height is not a perfectly up and down motion, it is a radius. This means that when you are adjusting your saddle height be mindful that you are also making an adjustment to your intonation (a small one but still). Ok on the topic of fully floating bridges... Since your bridge-plate is not parallel to the strings, any change in intonation will change your action; As the saddle moves further forward or back on the bridge-plate, it is also going up and down that "ramp". Just be mindful if you are setting up a fully floating bridge, that you will need to go back and forth, balancing your intonation screws and height adjustment screws until both are set correct, as changing one changes the other :)
That's why setting the bridge plate parallel to the strings is the recommended method for setting up full floating bridges. When the plate is parallel to the strings, changes in saddle height do not affect intonation and vica versa.
Really quality video! Expertly written and taught. Well done!
Very, very nicely done. Lovely.
Great advice Mick, thank you!
There is a big con to a floating vibrato that you failed to mention. This con may be specific to me and how I play but I would suspect it's likely quite common and that is that I tend to rest my hand on the bridge. The result is that even the slightest bit of downward pressure on the bridge will noticeably impact the tuning. As I said, this playing "style" may be particular to me but I suspect it's a much more common position.
Yes, same with me. I tend to rest my hand on the bridge, and while I have a Floyd Rose system, it has three same effect.
BTW, I thought I wanted a FR, but I hate it!
I'm seriously considering taking the "clamp" part off of the nut, and replacing the nut with a GraphTek one.
I really hate it, it makes it a pain to change anything, and it's totally unnecessary.
A properly setup and maintained Strat-type trem (vibrato) is fine.
The trick is to rest you hand closer to the pivot point. If yuu're on a Strat type trem, you may want to change saddle screws if they stick up high and are sharp. In the long run, you'll want to refine your technique, so you don't put excessive pressure on the bridge.
@@jeffro. You can carry a Floyd Rose equipped guitar around by just the whammy bar and it won't go out of tune. It's a double locking system. The string is clamped at the bridge and nut and can't slip. The locknut is the clamp at the nut end. It's necessary for that level of tuning stability. Double locking systems are the only type of trem that can't go out of tune. Floyd Rose is the most common design for guitars with headstock mounted tuners. The Steinberger "R" trem design is a common aftermarket trem for headless guitars. I actually put locknuts on the vast majority of my guitars builds. With a locknut, all tuning stability issues on the headstock end of the guitar go away.
I have (and love) a 6-screw vintage bridge Mexican Strat... replacement vibrato bridges are difficult to find that drop in (because of the MIM screw spacing). New flat saddles from GraphTech are much more comfortable than stamped steel with exposed pokey allen screws, and a Tusq XL nut (and string trees) are also fantastic for nearly eliminating friction. Great video!!
Absolutely amazing video!
Just expecting a normal Friday today. Joy in my heart that I can spend 48 hours away from the grind. But not really expecting anything stellar to happen the booooommmm Mick Drops a strat video come on! Theres not much I dont know about a vintage Strat bridge but I dont care I could listen to Mick talk Strat for hours. And play aswel obviously.
Brilliant. A subject that has been done to death but never this clearly or well presented. Thanks Mick.
Great content, the pedagogy and attention to detail are perfectly calibrated. Also that copper Strat is gorgeous :)
Fantastic video - thanks Mick! ❤
Excellent Mick! Thanks a million!
It's a journey for all of us to find exactly what we prefer, and this video covers all the elements needed to fine tune one's bridge setup.
For me a slight bit of float (4 springs in back) and the slanted claw bar as used by Mr. Beck does the job.
Your tip about the tension of the bridge screws from a video quite a while ago really was a big step toward a perfect setup, the claw bar angle is another.
Experimenting with being fully decked vs amounts of float got me where I am very happy with the tone and feel.
Everything about TPS is why the internet exists, I can't thank you all enough for the info, entertainment, and feeling of community.
Huge thumbs up for all you do 👍
Enjoy the vacation time!
Left handed 1977 CBS Era Strat owner here! This video is awesomely detailed and I want to thank you for all this information. The screw height section is a point that I know I messed up years ago (screwed them in all the way thinging they were loose) and have never used my trem since...you are awesome!
Some cheap string trees aren't bent/don't have a curve in them and it's really worth looking out for. On a good guitar (like your lovely original strat there) you can see the non-bent string tree is fitted at an angle to reduce friction. On some cheaper guitars (I found this recently on a road worn neck I got off ebay) sometimes you will find a non-curved string tree fitted at a flat angle designed for bent string trees. This makes tuning stability HORRENDOUS as the strings constantly bind on the string tree. Swapping to a bent/curved pure vintage string tree made a WORLD of difference. From a completely unusable trem to the best of any of my strats.
Also... WD-40 isn't a lubricant! It cleans but it doesn't lubricate! Stick to the pencil graphite! 😄
Love the vids!
Brilliant! Thanks, Mick!
Thank you Mick!
Great video. As a Strat owner, always appreciate the info!
by far the best explanation and critique of the Term/Vibrato setup ..... even better than fender could do ...thank you guys ....keep up the phenomenal work you do
Absolutely brilliant production and volume of information in this video. Thanks much!
Superbly done, Mick!
An oft ignored way to address the angle of the high strings over the nut is adjusting the height of the string tree(s) with spacers. I see a lot of "strats" where the tree(s) are screwed flush to the headstock, pulling the sharpest angle.
A couple things you can do for string on string are: if the unbent string is being fretted, you can bend those strings slightly to bring them up to pitch, or if the strings are open you can use your picking hand to put pressure on the bridge so it doesn't come up with the bend. Neither are perfect but both help.
Amazing info
Terrific production and content thank you
Mick does such a great job of capturing that yin-yang challenge of Strat setup. After a lot of years struggling with setting up guitars, I find I actually enjoy messing with that "tipping point" of a Strat trem and bridge. Even reminds me a little of messing with auto engine carburetors back in the day. Fun video.
Now adopted by plumbers for sealing joints, PTFE "Perfect Trem For Everyone" tape was developed in Leo's laboratory as a solution to whammy bar thread issues.
I tried do that, but it never seems to last long. These days I use a spring in there.
PTFE was discovered in 1938 by a DuPont chemist. It was used in 1942 to make corrosion resistant components for the atomic bomb. Leo's big claim to fame was bringing Ford assembly line type manufacturing to the guitar building business.
Great video-superb quality!
Great Video Mick, the attention to detail was excellent!
For a fully floating trem a 3mm pad (wood, nylon or similar) as a temporary spacer between the body and trem plate will enable the strings to be brought to pitch more quickly as the string being tuned will affect the ones already fitted much less. Removing the spacer will cause the 'flying height' and tension in the strings to change as the springs are allowed to do their balance thing. But all the strings will be more in the ball park. Useful for changing single strings.
I can’t overstate how comprehensive and totally useful this video is. I’ve been playing strats since 1976. Finally settled on flat to body down bend only: I am not Beck and I play more easily and better with plate flat to body. I know I can’t flutter but I don’t need to. Many a sleepless night agonising. I have 3 strats now. All have trems flat to body. Each with different trem arm tension though. 😁👍🏼
Awesome, Mick, thank you. I love these shows and the sharing of experience. Love from NC.
What a brilliant video Mick, exactly what I needed, and the way you approach it, methodically and we'll explained is perfect well done and thanks!
Only just started the video but I have to say the Frudua method from FruduaTv channel was all I ever needed to get my american strat to stay in tune. Not only does it stay in tune or reset easily with the trem bar, but you can adjust the claw a bit to get the Carl V intervals.
Or you can lock it down and enjoy a serviceable guitar just with less personality.
On my american I like it "free floating" except it can only be tightened by a tiny bit, I can divebomb down in pitch but I can raise pitch just enough to keep interesting wobbles that strats are known for
Hey, Chums! Very comprehensive as usual! Possibly the best video I've ever seen about setting up the Strat vibrato. One tip when changing strings with a floating trem -- I typically place a pad of post-it notes under the bridge plate when changing the strings (of course the string package works well too). The benefit of using a pad of post-it notes is that I can remove pages of post-it notes to allow for a perfect fit under the bridge plate. Thanks for the great video!!
Great tip, thanks!
Great video work too. Clear, concise, well shot.
These videos are a treasure. Thank you, Mick.
Flat block is my preferred method on my MIJ Strat, I also put in some narrow plastic tubing inside the springs to stop the vibration/buzzing. This work on the floating setup as well
Just to mention, because it wasn't mentioned:
If you block the vibrato with a piece of wood and take out the springs permanently, the strings are not grounded anymore, so you'd have to attach the grounding wire to the vibrato-block.
That is an important point! Especially since Strats don't use noise-cancelling (dual coil /humbucking) pickups!
i usually just put 4-5 springs and dont block it, does blocking really do anything if its already tight?
@@Healcraft you got my comment wrong: if you want to block the vibrato and take out all springs, then the strings won't be electrical connected to ground anymore, so you'd have to re-wire the grounding cable to have your strings electrically connected to ground...
no i got it right but I was just asking something else @@owl-pan
of course you can tight the vibrato until nearly no action, but blocking it with wood also has a better soundconnection to the body and also no issues when changing strings. PS: I personally use my vibrato, if I did not want to, I'd block it and remove all springs @@Healcraft
Great video, thanks Mick!
Thank you, Mick. This is amazing on so many levels.
Just on the decked vibrato versus a hardtail, there is still a bit of that spring sound that you can't get with a hardtail.
I've been playing my Strats with a decked vibrato for years, but still love that vibe that the springs in the back give.
And regardless of how decked the vibrato is, it's never completely fastened to the body like a hardtail, so it always has a tiny bit of movement and give in it.
I personally prefer the vibrato decked because I'm often changing to different alternate and open tunings on my Strats, and I can bend or capo anywhere or anyhow with no concerns.
But I'd never go for a hardtail. There's still a vibe with a decked vibrato and springs banging around in the body.
Plus, if I just deck the bridge then I still get to pick the Strat I want without being limited to hardtails.
Great video though Mick, I enjoyed that!
I like mine floating. As long as you set it up right and make sure there are no sharp edges the only way it goes out is if you break the string, but you can mitigate that with fresh strings. Mine sustains great, sounds clearer to me, and stays in tune wonderfully. If you have trouble rub chapstick in the nut. Don’t be afraid to try floating, once you get used to it you’re good to go
Floating also sounds the best, IMO.
Great video, Mick! Very helpful.
What a fantastic video Mick!
The most thorough and intelligent video on Strat setup, by far.
I solved the floating Strat vibrato issues: I bought a Jazzmaster.
Luckily... The Jazzmaster and its trem has its own quirky bits and bobs to fuss with and best practice debates... 🤘🏻😝
this is pure gold. Thanks as always!
Oh, Mick. I needed this so much and have been struggling. Thank you so much!
I also love fully floating for the extra sustain - hear me out ! As the bridge plate pushes into the screws a bit more I always find that the body may resonate less, but I get more net sustain out of the guitar
Yah I can see that for sure.
I think Darrell Braun has a video on exactly this, but his tests showed that the most sustain was blocked, followed by decked. I studied applied science and physics so I think I can explain why to my understanding.
So when we talk sustain, we are actually talking about energy conservation, it's how long the string will continue to vibrate. When it vibrates, it is getting fractionally longer and shorter with each individual vibration (that's the frequency, Hz). Going between two fixed points means it will vibrate the longest, as it's not imparting any of this elastic energy moving those points closer together. A floating trem is held by spring tension balancing with the strings, it's the opposite of 2 fixed points. because the string is pulling against a spring rather than a fixed position, the energy in the string imparts some of this energy as a slightly stretch to the trem spring, and given back from the elastic energy stored in the trem spring when the string fractionally lengthens. BUT the trem doesn't give the elastic energy it absorbed back to the one played string, it imparts energy evenly to all the strings. That means (for atleast a single string played on its own) you get less sustain as a floating trem shares the energy it absorbed evenly between all the strings, as well as absorbing some itself (hence you get buzzing or ringing trem springs).
Best way to visualise it I can think of is 6 ropes tied between a thick and a thin flexible tree. If you pull on one rope, the thin tree bends, the rest of the ropes slacken off and are under less/no tension. When you let go any elastic energy stored in the bent tree is released onto all the ropes and not just the rope you pulled on.
kenetic/vibrational TRANSFERENCE? @@Philter-Coffee
@@joshuaonmaui5965 if you are talking about one spring being played and the others receiving energy from it then yup, but the correct term is energy transfer as it doesn't just go directly into momentum (kinetic and vibration are both examples of momentum). I might be misreading your comment so happy to chat if I have the wrong end of the stick?
I don't have a degree in physics, even if I sounded like a wanna be. I was actually thinking of an explanation of an old science toy (Newton's Cradle - it's on Wikipedia) - hanging steel balls - you swung one on one end and the other end moved, but the middle 3 remained stationary. if you swung two, only the outside two on the other side moved. Up to Four Fascinating. It's still in my parent's home (a museum) over 55 years later! @@Philter-Coffee
For those (like me) that most prefer the floating bridge, but want more tuning stability, try a trem-setter!
Is that better than a ‘tremel-no’? Curious
I don't know but it works...I think Vai uses the trem setter too...
I've only fitted one once to a customer guitar and it works.
Absolutely awesome video! Very helpful!
Excellent! Educational, helpful and well made! Mine is fully floating and I’m adapted to this, but it’s good to know how other setups works. I can’t thank you enough for this, Mick! 👏🏼👏🏼👏🏼
The best way to use a Strat trem is to give it to JAM Pedals and ask them to put a piezo on it and make it into a pedal! Then you can have the trem without needing the guitar! 😁
Great video. Thank you!
Thanks Mick ...well done.....and top notch. More strat stuff please !
If you block the trem and remove the springs and the claw, the string ground will be ineffective. Full floating for me ala Carl Verheyen
I blocked off my strat and kept the springs in.
I did that, and after a decade or more took it to a luthier to set up as original float trem. Stayed in tune for a week or so, then it went wonky?
one of most details explanation. thank you
Bravo, Mick....Bravo!
Thank you so much for putting the time and effort into bringing this to us. Your content is second to none!!
This is great. A thorough and informative video about the subject that demystifies the whole process. Thank you :)
Very useful info! Thanks Mick.
Great guide and instruction. Thank you very much. Very informative.
Thanks very much for this outstanding information, good detailed video. Thanks for sharing.
Thanks for a very informative and helpful video. You've taken a lot of the mystery out of it and gained a new subscriber.👏
Outstanding!!!!
I must say that was brilliant, and many thanks! I learned so much 😊
Thank you, Mick! This was much needed 🙏🏻
Thanks for making this one Mick. I found your explanation of the vintage six screw floating setup particularly helpful. Cheers!
Putting some of this knowledge into my old Peavey with a two-point bridge. Thanks, Mick.
Classy stuff - incredibly clearly done
This is the best video I've seen on this topic! Thank you very much Mike for these detailed and understandable informations.
This is invaluable information. Thanks so much ,this will stay in my library.
Very accurate and enlightening. Lots of strats for different use is the way 🎉
Great video, I learned a lot and gained a bit of confidence.
This is some of the best content I've seen in a while. ❤
Had this on in the background as I polished the frets and popped a new set of strings on my strat. Thanks for giving me things to double check in the process!
Masterclass from Mick....simply brilliant and extremely helpful...thankyou
Man Mic, what a great vid. Lots of great info. I tackled my strat vibrato’s a year or so ago and this vid nails it in spades
The level of playing and quality of these videos has become insane. It’s great to see you improving!
Well done as usual