First point. Get the old strings off, polish the frets and condition the board, then install new strings (stretched, see point 7 below). There is no point setting action, relief or intonation with old strings, ESPECIALLY if you're going to change the gauge of the strings. (Also, if you want to roughly know what your non bound fretboard will look like before you condition it, just look at the edge under the clear coat, because it's not going to get any darker than that, unless you artificially darken it, but then that bit under the clear coat will then be lighter, and will look silly.) Second. If you want to float your trem, set it like you would a Floyd. Fit a packer under the back of the bridge plate (your rear cavity cover would do, or something thinner) using the trem arm to move the bridge. Tighten the springs to pull the bridge against the packer. Tune to pitch. Remove the packer again using the trem arm. The bridge will pull tight to the body and the guitar tuning will be pitched high. Loosen the springs until the guitar is in tune. The bridge should now be pretty much where it was with the packer, this is because you have equalised the tension of the springs with the tension of the strings at the position they were at when strings were tuned when the bridge was packed. Third. Visually looking down the fret board really isn't good enough to set relief, fret the E strings at the first and last frets (use your left hand for the first fret, you right thumb for the last fret, then reach your right middle finger as far you can up the fretboard, around the 7-8th fret to check the gap between the string and the fret wire if there is one. No gap, it needs relief - loosen the truss rod, big gap it needs straightened - tighten the truss rod, righty tighty - lefty loosey (looking towards the bridge from headstock). Fine tune to set your playing. Some people will set this to a measurement but it's subjective, some will prefer a bigger gap, some less, but there should always be some gap, we're talking paper thickness here, but experiment. Just turn the truss rod ⅛ of a turn and check each time, it doesn't take a lot. Fourth, once the trem is set and the relief is set THEN set the action BECAUSE - adjusting the angle of the bridge and changing the relief can affect the action, changing the action doesn't affect the angle of the trem or the relief. Fifth, intonate the guitar. Without carrying out the intonation everything you fret may sound out if tune which will be frustrating. Intonation is the process of adjusting the length of each string at the saddle relative to its thickness. Thicker strings need to be longer than thinner strings. *Think "long Bass guitars have thick strings, short Ukulele's have thin strings". The process is essentially a calibration to ensure that each fret plays the correct note to pitch along the entire length of the board. This is generally done by tuning the open string, then play the 12th fret of that string. It should be the same note as the open string but it will probably be sharp or flat. Move the saddle to 'chase the needle' on the tuner i.e if the note is sharp, the needle on the tuner is to the right of centre. Move your saddle to the right from playing perspective (away from the neck) and vice versa. Once you adjust a saddle, the open string needs tuned again. Tune the open, then the check the 12th and continue to adjust until the open string and the 12th fret are both in tune. Do this for every string. It can be long and annoying to do but you don't have to do this every time you change strings (though you probably should), but definitely if you change string guage size. Sixth, always tune your guitar in playing orientation, never on its back or on a cradle. Different forces are acting on the neck when the guitar is on its back which will affect the tuning. Seventh. Stretch new strings. You don't really want to stretch just a bit at each end, you want to stretch the entire string. Now, you don't need to stretch strings, but it's recommended. They're going to stretch anyway and as they do they'll constantly need tuned. Stretching them just makes them more stable. If you take Danish Pete's point about getting dirt in the strings whilst you do it, well you can clean the strings after like you should after each time you play it. Unless you plan on never touching the strings, they're going to get dirty... But it's a point, always wash your hands before playing or working on your guitar strings. You can also buy a small plastic device that allows you to stretch strings without actually touching them, you'll see it in an old Rob Chapman video where he's restringing a bunch of guitars, but I've never used one. Alternatively, two ways to stretch the strings without actually touching them at all - if you've a floating trem, just pull up on the bar a bunch, that'll stretch them. If not you can also just tune them up a bit higher than you would normally initially, then loosen them back off again and tune to pitch. Voilà
Hello does your guitar stay in tune when using floating tremolo? I had my second hand but almost new American strat with floating trem and it was totally out if tune after bending strings in both directions using tremolo. I had it set by a guy, who made it flush with a guitar so now I can bend only down but it stays in tune. He said floating tremolo always make guitar out if tune, unless your change standard nut by a nut with balls or sth.
My boy is desperately wanting to play guitar... I got a great deal on a bundle with this guitar, I really want him to have the best experience while on my budget. With that said, thank you so much for this. Not everyone can afford a truly nice guitar, and these changes can help lower budget players. A+ boys.
I have many guitars, some quite expensive and just bought a squire classic vibe. I instantly fell in love. It’s an amazing guitar. Price doesn’t always determine a nice guitar. He should be thrilled, they’re just fantastic.
Yes and this video is great for us beginners. If nothing else it shows you what to look for or what to check is included when you’re offered a “free” setup with your new guitar (then ask for all things you want checked). Or even for someone like me who is just wanting to brave fiddling around with my guitar its given me a good idea of what I can do/look at and correct on my guitar. Thank you Andertons, you certainly have the best and most informative channel - thats why I buy from you 😘
Little tip for the Nut Sauce. It's actually recommended that you put it on after you restring it. Once fully strung, detune enough to pull the string out of the nut slot and apply (even less than you did). This is because if you apply before you restring, as you tighten the string, the string itself pulls the nut sauce out of the nut and leaves it on the string. I'm not saying it still wouldn't work, that's just what the manufacturer recommends.
This video felt like a good old neighbor taking some time off his day to show a kid from next door how to get a job done. It was very endearing watching you do this. Somewhat fatherly.
Hot tip: if you don't have access to nut sauce, you can use pencil lead, since graphite is also a lubricant. Just "draw" across the nut lengthwise so the graphite dust falls into the slots. Of course this means you gotta clean up the nut afterwards, but that's easy enough.
You can also make the tip really pointy and just draw inside the slots. That's what I always do and it works perfectly well. Makes for less clean up. :)
Cool little guide for the layman. Something that was missed here was that when you change a string guage you will often need to reset the intonation (the distance between the nut and the string saddle) for each string (this may be more noticeable on a bass). One other small thing that I would add is that when you change the bridge from flat to floating you do end up raising the string height and the intonation slightly so I would recommend doing intonation checks / adjustments and string height adjustments after sorting out the trem.
Decided to give this a go on my Kramer Night Swan. I bought it 18 months ago and have struggled to fall in love with it . I have restrung it with Super Slinky 9’s , polished the frets , oiled the fingerboard and even tweaked the truss rod. Much more happy with the guitar now. Polishing the frets is going to be something I do whenever I change strings going forward. Bought a kit for £6 and it will do at least two polishes minimum.
My £500 guitar was set up from the store before shipping, as part of the buying experience. I was highly delighted when I received it. New strings, in tune, frets polished and intonated. Going that extra mile makes for return sales.
Took my Squire Thinline CV to a luthier for set up a week after receiving it - best decision I ever made. Fixed all the minor issues for less than £50, and I still get 80% of a full fat Fender at less than 25% of the price. Winning.
Most modern, non-chain stores don't have the time to do regular full setups on the guitars they sell, aside from basic neck adjustments and tuning upon arrival. Most can't even afford to have more than one employee on at time to do that. Blame the price inflations and the fact that manufacturers don't even properly adjust and intonate their own products before shipping them out.
6:15 Great video! My only recommendation is that suggesting a complete newbie do anything by feel is not very effective. There is no feel if you've never held a guitar. It might seem counter intuitive to suggest exact measurements but that's more attainable than feel.
Should also warn people about fret dressing and metal shavings/dust from sandpaper near your pickups. Blue tape over the pickups and wipe everything down before removing it.
Indeed. Blue tape is also very useful and efficient for removing the metal shavings/dust from the neck, afterwards (as you would a lint roller on clothing). 👍
I'm almost 40 and I recently developed an interest in the guitar. My dad (who has been playing since he was 10) gifted me with a 1980s MIM Fender Jaguar and I've been learning the fretboard and banging on chords (and trying not to mute strings). Obviously, you can't learn guitar in 2021 without consulting YT. I just want to say that this is by far the best guitar channel on youtube for beginners. It's informative and entertaining. I hope you guys sell a truckload of guitars. Thanks for the tips.
I like how even tho they are a company who want to sell their products they still talk about the problems of the products and even tell you how to fix it.
I am a firm believer in Big Bends Nut Sauce, that stuff saved my old Epiphone SG from awful tuning instability. Also, I've always used #0000 steel wool for polishing my frets because it's a lot easier to find than the polishing pads/erasers where I live.
I just mask my frets off and use Autosol with a cloth. Gives the frets a mirror finish. Just have to make sure you do not get it in the grain of rosewood, because it is white. Not good for shining pickup covers though. It takes the plating off fast. Need non, or very low abrasive polish for that job. I discovered that stuff in the 90s when I was restoring my early 70s Harley. It got the aluminium covers et cetera shining like new chrome. Looked awesome. I could never get it to not leak oil though. Nobody could fix the short in the wiring that caused the battery to go flat either. Replaced most of it and it still did it. A money hole. Same with cars. Guitars are money much better spent, although I can not get bugs in my teeth playing guitar, or fines for speeding.
An better alternative to steel wool is 3M Abrasive pads - they're like those green washing up scrubbers but come in finer grits - I use 3000 grit (probably too high!) and it's great on metal. You can buy off Amazon, eBay or any DIY/hardware store. Tbh you could just use the green washing up scrubbers too in a pinch! Follow up with some Brasso/Autosol as Aquila Rossa suggested for a mirror finish. Plus you don't get steel splinters in your fingers that take weeks to come out!
@@aquilarossa5191 I’ve never had luck with abrasive pads like the other guy recommended, but “chrome polish” or jeweler’s rouge on a felt wheel with a Dremel tool gets a mirror finish in moments once you have removed any visible scratches. It can be a bit messy, so don’t do it next to any windows or mirrors that you just cleaned.
Just done most of this on a new CV strat and the difference is immense!! Used lemon oil and pencil lead instead of montypresso and nut sauce. Took me 1 hour in total. Feels like a million $ now worth the effort. 👍
Quick Tip with the full-frame Sony: Close the aperture so you get a deeper field that's in focus. (Owning the same lens and struggled with the focus in the beginning also)
Just picked up guitar again after 10 years. I bought a Squier Classic Vibe 60s Strat. Was pretty hammered condition from the guy I got it from. I played it for a couple months, with super high action, bad strings, dried out fingerboard, bad intonation etc. I used every step on this guide to tune up the guitar. Boy does it make a difference. I even sanded the neck and oiled with Shellac and Alcohol to get that smooth feel. It's night and day. Thanks Andertons!
@andertons one tip on most guitars is if the machine heads are the kind held on with a nut on the headstock always get the correct size spanner and tighten them up as often they are just finger tight and it helps eliminate tuning issues if they are tightened properly so they can’t move
The Dunlop miracle cloth has blown me away with how well it cleans frets. Maybe not the best true polish rag with grit, but it cleans frets remarkably well.
Too many folks think that swapping parts is the key to improving playability, but refuse to get a professional setup. This video is a nice public service fellas.
My tip learn to play the bloody thing rather than pour money into your new guitar. All of mine are setup from the point of sale with new strings. They arrive ready to play not ready to work on 🙄
@@michaelhaller8495 The problem with that point of view is the way that a guitar should play is personal to each individual. At least if you've been playing long enough to know your likes and preferences. Wanting a generic setup is fine for a beginner or someone who doesn't have a particular way he likes his guitar to be set, but it's always a great idea to be familiar with these things and to know how to do them yourself. Not to mention that I've come across several music store "professionals' who were just downright idiots.
An extra tip. Use the sandpaper you used for the fret polish and polish the bridge saddles where the strings pass over. Add a dab of nut sauce there as well. The saddles are another critical friction point that should be addressed. Especially on a floating trem
For me, the most intuitive explanation of the truss rod is that it's primarily to counteract the tension of strings on the wood. The more you tighten it, the more it will resist the strings. If it's too tight, it will create a bend in the middle of the neck with the fretboard side as the highest point (convex) and vice versa.
The classic vibe range are incredible value for money, my classic vibe tele was my go to guitar until I bought a USA strat. I never used to stretch my new strings either, but do now. I don't have any nut sauce but have used graphite lock lubricant and vaseline lip therapy which both work. Great, informative video, thank you Lee and Pete.
My initial setup: 1. Take the old and crusty strings off. 2. Polish up the frets to get the shipping-tarnish off. Also peel off any of those translucent plastic stickers that come on new guitars (specifically on the pickups and sometimes the scratchplate) while I have full access. 3. Give the fretboard a conditioning. As rightly said, most guitars spend a long time on shipping containers, came out of a factory with a vastly different climate, et cetera - the wood will have dried out. Note that if the fretboard wood is the same as the rest of the neck's, odds are the fretboard will have a lacquer on it that makes this step skippable. The act of rubbing in fretboard-conditioner will also get rid of the micro-dust from the fret-polishing. 4. Lubricate the nut, the string trees if the guitar has those, the saddles, and the tremolo's knife-edges if the guitar has a tremolo. These are all the moving parts that'll affect the tuning stability of the guitar. 5. Put fresh strings on, tune them to pitch and stretch them. 6. *Now* is when I adjust the tremolo system and the neck relief if need be. Looking down the neck is what I consider to be "advanced technique" here, I'd use the string as a ruler by pushing down the string on the first fret and the last pre-body-pocket fret and checking for a tiny gap. 7. You probably won't need to adjust the pickup height as a beginner, this is just a preference thing, but it's one of the last setup things I tend to do.
Every single new guitar I've bought (and I mean every one) has needed some work doing to the depth and width of the nut slots. They have never been cut deep enough straight out of the box. It's such an important part of a good setup because it's fundamental to the way the guitar plays, particularly near the nut itself.
That’s me fucked then. I’m a beginner, learning Acoustic for the past few months and I decided to start my Electric Guitar journey. I just bought a £750 Yamaha and I come across this video… I cannot do this maintenance as a beginner on a brand new guitar, wtf is the service on Anderson… I would expect for £750 to have my guitar pretty much setup to play out of the box 😭 I’ve wasted my money
@@SirCodezyy this video literally shows you everything you need to know, and playing guitar means knowing how to maintain and look after them, not just picking it up after a few weeks and it plays as good as last week. These are just things all guitarists must know, I'm still Learing to properly maintain guitars as well, that's why I'm on this video
Instead of using the wet dry high grit paper- I use a piece of leather, the rough side- and charge it with super fine polishing compound. The polishing compound I use is for polishing jewelry- works great on frets. It will put a mirror finish on them if that's what you want, mine are like that- plays smooth as glass. I use a sanding block for the ends- to round them off- but then I finish that with the same leather and polishing compound afterwards. Believe it or not- it works exceptionally well on a gloss finish to- removes any small scratches or haziness. You have to be careful though- you can rub the finish off if you just really go after it. You'd have to be pretty dim to do that though, you can tell when enough is enough. Just do it by hand- don't ever use a buffer or anything like that- you can go right through a finish with those things. I had a buddy who tried to use a Dremel to polish his frets- big mistake- had to get a fret job afterwards. Ppl don't realize how aggressive tools like that are.
On the topic of strings, for people who find their guitar a little hard to play. I'd suggest asking your local store if they stock 8's which are super light. When I started i was very heavy handed and also found bar chords super hard to play. Playing with the more delicate 8s made it easier to develop my technique. They're not the best for tone however but are great to practice with.
Thanks for this! I fished out my 1984 hohner strat copy out of the attic - not played in 36 years. This gave me the confidence to set up the neck and everything else. Still to set up trem and has a dodgey selector switch. Cheers!
Completely agree with Lee’s comments of having never used a ruler to measure action. So many “guitar setup” videos on YT recommend certain heights. Just setup as you like, it’s that simple. Here a little buzz? Check the action or neck relief. Keep at it until it’s just right.
Please cover the pickups when you polish the frets. There is a magnet in the pickup that will catch all that extra metal you remove from the frets while polishing. Tape the pickups before doing any polishing.
Especially if using steel wool, as it will wreak absolute havoc on your pickups. If you wanna be extra safe, take your vacuum and suck it all up before uncovering the pickups again.
Don't watch the recent TPS video where Mick files out the bridge of his new Jason Isbell Tele while it's attached to the guitar (and the pickup), it's upsetting
Guitar frets are nickel silver (brass). They are not magnetic. Polishing compounds and micro mesh are also not magnetic. There is no danger of metal being attracted to your pickup doing as shown in this video. IF you choose to use steel wool then it would be sensible to cover the pickup and work away from it. Now, nickel may be a carcinogen but the amount being removed is vanishingly small and for normal people, who won't be snorting up any and all residues, there is effectively no danger.
Oh - Stainless steel frets are a real thing. Most but not all stainless steels are non-magnetic. I have no direct experience of them but I would be surprised if frets were made from any of the magnetic versions
@Thomas Pelley i am used to playing vintage tokai and ibanez stuff and most modern stuff from gibson and fender just doesnt do it for me. Mostly because of the necks... anyways i got a classic vibe tele and this is easily one of the best guitars i have ever had
So im a reasonable newby to guitar and i bought a epiphone les paul vintage in cherry red and did not get on with it at all. Id never messed with it or done anything to it, until i watched this. Just altering the pickup heights and correcting the neck abit and i cant stop playing it now. Just goes to show setup is key 👍👍👍
I liked Pete's string stretching tip. Reminds me of something I heard about bass strings from Scott Devine at ScottsBassLessons. He said that for vintage-style tuners like in this video, sometimes when you snip your brand new string to the right length, that can cause the internal wire to slip relative to the wrapped wire; if you've ever found a brand new string to sound dead or thumpy, that's probably the reason. Again, more in reference to bass guitar strings. The solution is to crimp the string where you wanna snip it by bending it 90 degrees, and then snip it just on the other side of the crimp, leaving the crimp as basically the new tip of the string. The crimp causes the inner wire and outer wire to essentially lock in place with each other, ensuring they can't slip.
I do all my own maintenance repair (mechanic by trade) and by far the best $17 I ever spent was a device called "The String Strecha". They used to advertise in the back of guitar world magazine. The physics are spot on, and it works like a charm.
The only guitars I’ve bought which arrived with intonation spot on were my 2 Burny Les Pauls, a P90 Goldtop and a 3 pickup Jimmy Page Black Beauty model with Bigsby! Love those guitars!
I like to use Carmex on my guitar nuts. I've tried all kinds of different types of nut lubes and I gotta say the Carmex has worked best. Really any petroleum based jellies should do the trick. My Strat is set up to have a floating trem and I actually struggle to make it go out of tune. Also, toothpicks and Q-tips are your best friends. Whether it's using them to apply lube to your nuts with them, cleaning tarnish off of bridge parts, filling stripped out holes... And a Q-tip has just enough cotton on the end that if you pull the cotton off, you can put it into your trem arm hole to tighten up the action on the trem arm without having to resort to tapes. It's especially useful for trems that have holes in the bridge block that springs would just fall out of because the fluffiness of the cotton keeps it in place better. I'm a big fan of the vintage style slotted tuners, too. I go 2 tuners up and then clip the string. Fewer windings means less slack which can cause the slightest bit of string slippage, i.e, tuning problems. Setting up the trem is important for tuning stability, as well. Tighten all 6 screws on a vintage style trem all the way. Then loosen the 4 middle ones by a quart of a turn. This puts the pivot points of the trem on the two outside screws and allows for some wiggle room while return the bridge to it's zero point.
Putting your favorite strings on and even just oiling a dry rosewood/pau ferro fretboard works wonders! Allows your hands and fingers to run smoothly up and down the neck. (Music nomad F-one oil) A little goes a long ways! Sometimes new guitars need saddle intonation and even slight bridge adjustments to your liking. I prefer a flat bridge and alot of new guitars come with a floating bridge. To each his or hers own. Those squier classic vibes are an awesome guitar for the money! Good stuff guys! Rock on!!
Mate! Talk about right on time! I literally just bought a new Strat... yesterday... and was planning on doing all the set up myself, and you guys bring me this video! You sir, (and other sir,) are absolute champions!
@@so5532 www.deluxeguitar.com/701/stratocaster-setup-guide/ couldn’t find the Fender page. They must have moved it again, but this is virtually word for word the same as the old Fender Mr Gearhead page. I use a British 20p coin at the 17th fret to set my action (which is 1.7mm) but otherwise this is bang on for me.
This is a seriously good video!... People might buy stuff, because they saw a good video, or read a good review.... but, how many people have been disappointed, because the guitar doesn't wanna stay in tune, or there's some fret buzz or whatever... it's simple things, but they make a big difference..
Now it plays and sounds like a custom shop ! Its true . My Squiers all do . Its what happens when you put an already very decent guitar in the right hands . Great video .
Good advice for any new player just starting out. Setting up your own guitar is a skill well worth learning, and a lot cheaper than paying for a full set up. An highly skilled luthier will get your guitar to play at it's best and can be worth paying for on an expensive guitar, but only you will eventually learn how you want your guitar to feel and sound. I can higly recommend Monty's Wax for the way too light finish on modern fretboards. As for nut sauce, yes it works, but a new nut will make a big difference.
I will say that it actually does help to wind the string UP on the tuning pegs for “3 a side” headstocks such as a Les Paul. I can’t remember where I heard it, but after trying it, the slightly shallower angle of the string by winding up does greatly increase tubing stability, most notably on the D and G string.
Perfect timing for this vid! Just picked up my metallic purple Squier Classic Vibe tele and Epiphone 1959 Les Paul (plus Katana 50W 1x12") from Andertons 2 days ago on Sunday afternoon!
What legends. I have a Seagull S6 Acoustic which was set up at shop for me. Decided to buy an electric, Ibanez GIO.when it came it had quite a bit of fret buzz & the trem was high. Following this video i have adjuasted the truss rod and eliminated the buzz, change strings (using slinkly hybrids), have got the trem flat witha little give and cleaned the frets. What a difference. The GIO was set up pretty bably i reckon from the box. Haven't adjust the pick up heights as of yet as sound ok for me at mo.
Great vid guys. Love the tip on getting the trem system to float. My trem is flat against the body of the guitar and hence can only dive the notes down. I'll adjust it this evening to get it to float. PS..quick tip. Cut off a small section of each of the old strings. About say 2 inches each. You can then out the nut grooves.
One thing I which I did more often when I was hitting it had playing shows was polish the frets more often. I use a buffing wheel on a dremel with polishing compound and it makes the frets look like mirrors which makes is so easy to play.
Been playing 40 years, tried every brand of string, and have always settled on GHS Boomers, 10-46. On string up, I have found that going up two pegs is plenty long enough, and from my classic vibe, to my custom shop, and Boutique handcrafted guitars, tuning stability on all of them are extremely good at staying in tune. If you get a guitar, and it goes out of tune a lot, don't start with the tuners, as the most common reason for tuning instability is a poorly cut but, or one cut for a smaller gauge of strings. A good tech can fix that for a reasonable amount, I'd say a full pro set up being usually $60 or less in the US, it could likely be done well 8n the UK for £40-£50. If you are learning, it's a good investment on a new, or used instrument! Peace, Keith Richmond VA
Had to do the same with my AM Proll. Player preference is what it’s about. Sure there are a bunch of players out there who preference older duller worn in strings with a high action and a locked down trem.. Only addition to this vid would be the internation ! Always a good thing to check when you alter the bridge.. Nice work..👍🇦🇺
If you can’t find the fret polisher, go to a beauty supply store and pick up a fingernail buffer! One of the four sided ones. They work great and they’re only around $2.
I find that the best guitar shops do these sort of tune up chores on their guitars as they come into their stock. I'm going to have to look into that fretboard wax. Looks pretty cool.
My friend loaned me his 20 yrs old Yamaha acoustic guitar and I had to do something similar like putting on new string, adjust the truss rod, and general cleaning before I could even play the guitar. It is not a hard task to do for most people.
Hot tip 2.0 .... the thicker your strings are the more tension on your neck ... New Stratocasters typically come with 9's which are a very thin Slinky string with not a lot of tension pulling on the neck ... jumping up to 10 guage strings will give you extra tension/pull on the neck and may eliminate any fret buzz before you think about getting tools out 👌
Jumping up string gauges will always require some adjustments .... intonation and action .... if you jump up to 11 or 12 gauge strings you will probably have to add springs to the trem
I had bought a Vintera Roadworn strat and when it came in I was a little peeved I had a little work to do on it. The trem was way up in the air and the action was terrible after setting that up properly. Frets were a little sharp and the pickups were all too high to my taste. But after adjusting all of that , it has to be one of my favorite guitars.
Also, a huge boost on feel for your strings is you can order single strings of your preferred brand. Of course you'd order them after going to a guitar tension calculator website like stringjoy to enter in the scale length of your guitar to get them all close to the same. My go to for my Drop C guitar that's 25.5" is roughly aimed at 20lbs of tension and 17-ish for the lighter strings. I have my main guitars set up like this and haven't noticed any stability issues holding tuning, all while getting the tone, attack, and bendability that is roughly equal on every string. One catch is if you're one of those types to change tuning on the hour, then this isn't going to work. You have to stay in the same tuning more or less or all the balance will be lost. The point it so that you get the same feel on every string without having a need to buy a multiscale guitar, but it limits that guitar to whatever tuning you do the setup for. I still mess around with close tunings so it's not far off, but never fully changing out. For example going from CGCEGD to drop C is just fine and are my main tunings on that guitar. Also, I've only ever done this on guitars with hardtails I haven't tried fighting my floyd never-in-tune or my fender floater lol
This video dropped at the right time for me. Am picking up the guitar for the first time in my life at the age of 34 and this is gonna help me loads! Cheers, guys! Been watching your videos for as long as I've been researching on guitars for the past few months now. Keep on rocking!
To break in new strings, I tune half a half step up on all 6 stribgs, play, tune again half a half step up, play for a bit. Then tune to pitch. Works everytime
Tip for tone. String up your guitar set it up then loosen the 4 neck screws a quarter of a turn until you hear a little pop then tighten back up, it will seat your neck properly giving it more contact and better resonance. Improves sound 100% 🙂
"How does it sound now?" If we knew how it sounded before. Probably quite the same, most of those adjustments have to do with comfort and another neck plate is not going to make it sound any different.
I was about to ask for a video like this 😉 I do think acoustic guitars deserve one of their own, since there are less options for adjustment. Well done!
Great video. You covered everything someone would need to know with the exception of correcting intonation issues. I also think you should have had a before and after for the neck plate so we could hear if there was an actual difference or not since I’m actually somewhat curious about it now.
ua-cam.com/video/n02tImce3AE/v-deo.html please watch this and settle the old myths once and for all. I LOL'd when they brought out the claims about better sound with that plate.
Love these style videos. Would love to see a few of the old challenge videos remade Captain vs Pete! The gig for £500, Build a pedal board for £xxx etc.. :)
Tips on adjusting individual string heights and setting intonation wouldv'e helped, as well as your opinion of what difference the neck plate made if any.
Good advice, shortest easiest thing is to (almost) always get or do a setup with a new guitar. That’s one reason why S--w-r is such a great company here in the colonies, they go over all that. You alluded to or maybe outright said that adjusting the truss rod is an action adjustment. No question that adjusting the truss rod has an impact on the action, but with an instrument like the one you are working on the action needs adjusted on each string. That is probably more than you wanted to go over, but the truss rod is not for adjusting action. If the action for each string is out of whack no amount of adjusting the truss rod will make it right. Sorry, pet peeve
In the trussrod lesson you can hear Pete trying to interject some important info for those novice or amateur repair guys and that was him saying you should allow time to let the neck slowly adjust to the neck tension changes. Mr. A however disregarded what he was trying to tell us, possibly causing many future techs unnecessary problems. Important note: keep neck tension changes to a quarter turn with 24-48 hours for natural relief/pressure. If more is needed, repeat the process. AN EXTREMELY VALUABLE TIP FOR BEGINNERS.
Just used the Monty's Montypresso Original Guitar Relic Wax on a couple of my acoustics. Beautiful finish and feel !! I'll be dong my other guitars periodically when they're due string changes. Thanks for the heads-up on that product, guys ;-)
Pete handling that camera like a dad on vacation 😂
Well he could actually be a dad on vacation lol
😂😂😂
Or a dodgy onlyfans cameraman. "Lee, pull that G string harder for daddy !!!!". 😉🤘
@Erik Lawaetz rrrrrrrrr6
I will translate for English viewers "a dad on holiday"
First point. Get the old strings off, polish the frets and condition the board, then install new strings (stretched, see point 7 below). There is no point setting action, relief or intonation with old strings, ESPECIALLY if you're going to change the gauge of the strings. (Also, if you want to roughly know what your non bound fretboard will look like before you condition it, just look at the edge under the clear coat, because it's not going to get any darker than that, unless you artificially darken it, but then that bit under the clear coat will then be lighter, and will look silly.)
Second. If you want to float your trem, set it like you would a Floyd. Fit a packer under the back of the bridge plate (your rear cavity cover would do, or something thinner) using the trem arm to move the bridge. Tighten the springs to pull the bridge against the packer. Tune to pitch. Remove the packer again using the trem arm. The bridge will pull tight to the body and the guitar tuning will be pitched high. Loosen the springs until the guitar is in tune. The bridge should now be pretty much where it was with the packer, this is because you have equalised the tension of the springs with the tension of the strings at the position they were at when strings were tuned when the bridge was packed.
Third. Visually looking down the fret board really isn't good enough to set relief, fret the E strings at the first and last frets (use your left hand for the first fret, you right thumb for the last fret, then reach your right middle finger as far you can up the fretboard, around the 7-8th fret to check the gap between the string and the fret wire if there is one. No gap, it needs relief - loosen the truss rod, big gap it needs straightened - tighten the truss rod, righty tighty - lefty loosey (looking towards the bridge from headstock). Fine tune to set your playing. Some people will set this to a measurement but it's subjective, some will prefer a bigger gap, some less, but there should always be some gap, we're talking paper thickness here, but experiment. Just turn the truss rod ⅛ of a turn and check each time, it doesn't take a lot.
Fourth, once the trem is set and the relief is set THEN set the action BECAUSE - adjusting the angle of the bridge and changing the relief can affect the action, changing the action doesn't affect the angle of the trem or the relief.
Fifth, intonate the guitar. Without carrying out the intonation everything you fret may sound out if tune which will be frustrating. Intonation is the process of adjusting the length of each string at the saddle relative to its thickness. Thicker strings need to be longer than thinner strings. *Think "long Bass guitars have thick strings, short Ukulele's have thin strings". The process is essentially a calibration to ensure that each fret plays the correct note to pitch along the entire length of the board. This is generally done by tuning the open string, then play the 12th fret of that string. It should be the same note as the open string but it will probably be sharp or flat. Move the saddle to 'chase the needle' on the tuner i.e if the note is sharp, the needle on the tuner is to the right of centre. Move your saddle to the right from playing perspective (away from the neck) and vice versa. Once you adjust a saddle, the open string needs tuned again. Tune the open, then the check the 12th and continue to adjust until the open string and the 12th fret are both in tune. Do this for every string. It can be long and annoying to do but you don't have to do this every time you change strings (though you probably should), but definitely if you change string guage size.
Sixth, always tune your guitar in playing orientation, never on its back or on a cradle. Different forces are acting on the neck when the guitar is on its back which will affect the tuning.
Seventh. Stretch new strings. You don't really want to stretch just a bit at each end, you want to stretch the entire string. Now, you don't need to stretch strings, but it's recommended. They're going to stretch anyway and as they do they'll constantly need tuned. Stretching them just makes them more stable. If you take Danish Pete's point about getting dirt in the strings whilst you do it, well you can clean the strings after like you should after each time you play it. Unless you plan on never touching the strings, they're going to get dirty... But it's a point, always wash your hands before playing or working on your guitar strings. You can also buy a small plastic device that allows you to stretch strings without actually touching them, you'll see it in an old Rob Chapman video where he's restringing a bunch of guitars, but I've never used one. Alternatively, two ways to stretch the strings without actually touching them at all - if you've a floating trem, just pull up on the bar a bunch, that'll stretch them. If not you can also just tune them up a bit higher than you would normally initially, then loosen them back off again and tune to pitch. Voilà
Best summary right here
Thanks, this was more helpful than the video. Straight to the point with good informations.
Hello does your guitar stay in tune when using floating tremolo? I had my second hand but almost new American strat with floating trem and it was totally out if tune after bending strings in both directions using tremolo. I had it set by a guy, who made it flush with a guitar so now I can bend only down but it stays in tune. He said floating tremolo always make guitar out if tune, unless your change standard nut by a nut with balls or sth.
Wow talk about an in depth response thank you!
Thanks. Much appreciated!
My boy is desperately wanting to play guitar... I got a great deal on a bundle with this guitar, I really want him to have the best experience while on my budget. With that said, thank you so much for this. Not everyone can afford a truly nice guitar, and these changes can help lower budget players. A+ boys.
I have many guitars, some quite expensive and just bought a squire classic vibe. I instantly fell in love. It’s an amazing guitar.
Price doesn’t always determine a nice guitar. He should be thrilled, they’re just fantastic.
Yes and this video is great for us beginners. If nothing else it shows you what to look for or what to check is included when you’re offered a “free” setup with your new guitar (then ask for all things you want checked). Or even for someone like me who is just wanting to brave fiddling around with my guitar its given me a good idea of what I can do/look at and correct on my guitar. Thank you Andertons, you certainly have the best and most informative channel - thats why I buy from you 😘
No such thing as a "cheap" guitar anymore, anything over €200 in Squier is good and the bullets at 170 are fine too.
Get him LESSONS.
Equally as important💡
@@pbosche
Meh...
Material quality.💡
-True judge of an instrument.
Little tip for the Nut Sauce. It's actually recommended that you put it on after you restring it. Once fully strung, detune enough to pull the string out of the nut slot and apply (even less than you did). This is because if you apply before you restring, as you tighten the string, the string itself pulls the nut sauce out of the nut and leaves it on the string. I'm not saying it still wouldn't work, that's just what the manufacturer recommends.
This video felt like a good old neighbor taking some time off his day to show a kid from next door how to get a job done. It was very endearing watching you do this. Somewhat fatherly.
Hot tip: if you don't have access to nut sauce, you can use pencil lead, since graphite is also a lubricant. Just "draw" across the nut lengthwise so the graphite dust falls into the slots. Of course this means you gotta clean up the nut afterwards, but that's easy enough.
Every male has access to nut sauce
I do a mix between graphite and vaseline and put it inside a syringe, works perfectly and last forever
You can also make the tip really pointy and just draw inside the slots. That's what I always do and it works perfectly well. Makes for less clean up. :)
6B or 8B graphite pencil from an art supplies shop will lubricate your nut. Makes it nice and slippery. ;)
@@adityabali1939 logout
Cool little guide for the layman. Something that was missed here was that when you change a string guage you will often need to reset the intonation (the distance between the nut and the string saddle) for each string (this may be more noticeable on a bass). One other small thing that I would add is that when you change the bridge from flat to floating you do end up raising the string height and the intonation slightly so I would recommend doing intonation checks / adjustments and string height adjustments after sorting out the trem.
Wow.
Decided to give this a go on my Kramer Night Swan. I bought it 18 months ago and have struggled to fall in love with it . I have restrung it with Super Slinky 9’s , polished the frets , oiled the fingerboard and even tweaked the truss rod. Much more happy with the guitar now. Polishing the frets is going to be something I do whenever I change strings going forward. Bought a kit for £6 and it will do at least two polishes minimum.
My £500 guitar was set up from the store before shipping, as part of the buying experience. I was highly delighted when I received it. New strings, in tune, frets polished and intonated. Going that extra mile makes for return sales.
Absolutely, Im really glad that you have had a good experience, I have had good experience from Andertons also in the past.
Years later and I’ve still appreciated this video. Not to mention I can’t stop using that phrase “the key to Allan”
Took my Squire Thinline CV to a luthier for set up a week after receiving it - best decision I ever made. Fixed all the minor issues for less than £50, and I still get 80% of a full fat Fender at less than 25% of the price. Winning.
Used to be a time where Music Stores set up a guitar they were selling...
Too busy with their IPhones these days.
Most modern, non-chain stores don't have the time to do regular full setups on the guitars they sell, aside from basic neck adjustments and tuning upon arrival. Most can't even afford to have more than one employee on at time to do that. Blame the price inflations and the fact that manufacturers don't even properly adjust and intonate their own products before shipping them out.
Mine was see above.
"I'm not a guitar technician" Then proves it by putting the guitar face down on top of the tremolo bar. Genius😂👍
guitar's not gonna relic itself!
@@chrisegg7936 😂👍
@@chrisegg7936 You are funny.
I was also not thrilled to see the use of that neck holder thingy at that angle. The whole weight of the guitar was resting on that thing at an angle.
@@chrisegg7936qq 1 5D
6:15 Great video! My only recommendation is that suggesting a complete newbie do anything by feel is not very effective. There is no feel if you've never held a guitar. It might seem counter intuitive to suggest exact measurements but that's more attainable than feel.
Should also warn people about fret dressing and metal shavings/dust from sandpaper near your pickups. Blue tape over the pickups and wipe everything down before removing it.
Indeed. Blue tape is also very useful and efficient for removing the metal shavings/dust from the neck, afterwards (as you would a lint roller on clothing). 👍
I alway find these guitar setup for beginners videos calming and relaxing. Now this one is my most favorite.
I'm almost 40 and I recently developed an interest in the guitar. My dad (who has been playing since he was 10) gifted me with a 1980s MIM Fender Jaguar and I've been learning the fretboard and banging on chords (and trying not to mute strings). Obviously, you can't learn guitar in 2021 without consulting YT. I just want to say that this is by far the best guitar channel on youtube for beginners. It's informative and entertaining. I hope you guys sell a truckload of guitars. Thanks for the tips.
I like how even tho they are a company who want to sell their products they still talk about the problems of the products and even tell you how to fix it.
I am a firm believer in Big Bends Nut Sauce, that stuff saved my old Epiphone SG from awful tuning instability. Also, I've always used #0000 steel wool for polishing my frets because it's a lot easier to find than the polishing pads/erasers where I live.
I just mask my frets off and use Autosol with a cloth. Gives the frets a mirror finish. Just have to make sure you do not get it in the grain of rosewood, because it is white. Not good for shining pickup covers though. It takes the plating off fast. Need non, or very low abrasive polish for that job.
I discovered that stuff in the 90s when I was restoring my early 70s Harley. It got the aluminium covers et cetera shining like new chrome. Looked awesome. I could never get it to not leak oil though. Nobody could fix the short in the wiring that caused the battery to go flat either. Replaced most of it and it still did it. A money hole. Same with cars. Guitars are money much better spent, although I can not get bugs in my teeth playing guitar, or fines for speeding.
An better alternative to steel wool is 3M Abrasive pads - they're like those green washing up scrubbers but come in finer grits - I use 3000 grit (probably too high!) and it's great on metal. You can buy off Amazon, eBay or any DIY/hardware store. Tbh you could just use the green washing up scrubbers too in a pinch!
Follow up with some Brasso/Autosol as Aquila Rossa suggested for a mirror finish. Plus you don't get steel splinters in your fingers that take weeks to come out!
@@aquilarossa5191 I’ve never had luck with abrasive pads like the other guy recommended, but “chrome polish” or jeweler’s rouge on a felt wheel with a Dremel tool gets a mirror finish in moments once you have removed any visible scratches. It can be a bit messy, so don’t do it next to any windows or mirrors that you just cleaned.
@@Markle2k
Hold a glass bowl over dremel tool
look through it?
Just done most of this on a new CV strat and the difference is immense!! Used lemon oil and pencil lead instead of montypresso and nut sauce. Took me 1 hour in total. Feels like a million $ now worth the effort. 👍
Quick Tip with the full-frame Sony:
Close the aperture so you get a deeper field that's in focus.
(Owning the same lens and struggled with the focus in the beginning also)
lol poor Danish pete can't focus properly
and a prime lens stopped down would also be a benefit
I don’t even care.
And that sounded cool!😎
Tech❤️
Just picked up guitar again after 10 years. I bought a Squier Classic Vibe 60s Strat. Was pretty hammered condition from the guy I got it from. I played it for a couple months, with super high action, bad strings, dried out fingerboard, bad intonation etc. I used every step on this guide to tune up the guitar. Boy does it make a difference. I even sanded the neck and oiled with Shellac and Alcohol to get that smooth feel. It's night and day. Thanks Andertons!
@andertons one tip on most guitars is if the machine heads are the kind held on with a nut on the headstock always get the correct size spanner and tighten them up as often they are just finger tight and it helps eliminate tuning issues if they are tightened properly so they can’t move
The Dunlop miracle cloth has blown me away with how well it cleans frets. Maybe not the best true polish rag with grit, but it cleans frets remarkably well.
Too many folks think that swapping parts is the key to improving playability, but refuse to get a professional setup. This video is a nice public service fellas.
My tip learn to play the bloody thing rather than pour money into your new guitar. All of mine are setup from the point of sale with new strings. They arrive ready to play not ready to work on 🙄
@@michaelhaller8495 The problem with that point of view is the way that a guitar should play is personal to each individual. At least if you've been playing long enough to know your likes and preferences. Wanting a generic setup is fine for a beginner or someone who doesn't have a particular way he likes his guitar to be set, but it's always a great idea to be familiar with these things and to know how to do them yourself.
Not to mention that I've come across several music store "professionals' who were just downright idiots.
An extra tip. Use the sandpaper you used for the fret polish and polish the bridge saddles where the strings pass over. Add a dab of nut sauce there as well. The saddles are another critical friction point that should be addressed. Especially on a floating trem
For me, the most intuitive explanation of the truss rod is that it's primarily to counteract the tension of strings on the wood. The more you tighten it, the more it will resist the strings. If it's too tight, it will create a bend in the middle of the neck with the fretboard side as the highest point (convex) and vice versa.
Here before the crowd! Hey Anderton's crew! Been following your content for years, thanks for all you do!
Thanks for the support over the years! Enjoy the video 💜
The classic vibe range are incredible value for money, my classic vibe tele was my go to guitar until I bought a USA strat. I never used to stretch my new strings either, but do now. I don't have any nut sauce but have used graphite lock lubricant and vaseline lip therapy which both work. Great, informative video, thank you Lee and Pete.
My initial setup:
1. Take the old and crusty strings off.
2. Polish up the frets to get the shipping-tarnish off. Also peel off any of those translucent plastic stickers that come on new guitars (specifically on the pickups and sometimes the scratchplate) while I have full access.
3. Give the fretboard a conditioning. As rightly said, most guitars spend a long time on shipping containers, came out of a factory with a vastly different climate, et cetera - the wood will have dried out. Note that if the fretboard wood is the same as the rest of the neck's, odds are the fretboard will have a lacquer on it that makes this step skippable. The act of rubbing in fretboard-conditioner will also get rid of the micro-dust from the fret-polishing.
4. Lubricate the nut, the string trees if the guitar has those, the saddles, and the tremolo's knife-edges if the guitar has a tremolo. These are all the moving parts that'll affect the tuning stability of the guitar.
5. Put fresh strings on, tune them to pitch and stretch them.
6. *Now* is when I adjust the tremolo system and the neck relief if need be. Looking down the neck is what I consider to be "advanced technique" here, I'd use the string as a ruler by pushing down the string on the first fret and the last pre-body-pocket fret and checking for a tiny gap.
7. You probably won't need to adjust the pickup height as a beginner, this is just a preference thing, but it's one of the last setup things I tend to do.
Hey guys when's Sounds Like coming back??? We've been waiting for sooo long now
I NEED IT
Every single new guitar I've bought (and I mean every one) has needed some work doing to the depth and width of the nut slots. They have never been cut deep enough straight out of the box. It's such an important part of a good setup because it's fundamental to the way the guitar plays, particularly near the nut itself.
That’s me fucked then. I’m a beginner, learning Acoustic for the past few months and I decided to start my Electric Guitar journey. I just bought a £750 Yamaha and I come across this video… I cannot do this maintenance as a beginner on a brand new guitar, wtf is the service on Anderson… I would expect for £750 to have my guitar pretty much setup to play out of the box 😭 I’ve wasted my money
@@SirCodezyy its not Anderson job to setup guitars. the company sets up the guitar at the factory and then ships the guitar.
@@SirCodezyy this video literally shows you everything you need to know, and playing guitar means knowing how to maintain and look after them, not just picking it up after a few weeks and it plays as good as last week. These are just things all guitarists must know, I'm still Learing to properly maintain guitars as well, that's why I'm on this video
Instead of using the wet dry high grit paper- I use a piece of leather, the rough side- and charge it with super fine polishing compound. The polishing compound I use is for polishing jewelry- works great on frets. It will put a mirror finish on them if that's what you want, mine are like that- plays smooth as glass. I use a sanding block for the ends- to round them off- but then I finish that with the same leather and polishing compound afterwards. Believe it or not- it works exceptionally well on a gloss finish to- removes any small scratches or haziness. You have to be careful though- you can rub the finish off if you just really go after it. You'd have to be pretty dim to do that though, you can tell when enough is enough. Just do it by hand- don't ever use a buffer or anything like that- you can go right through a finish with those things. I had a buddy who tried to use a Dremel to polish his frets- big mistake- had to get a fret job afterwards. Ppl don't realize how aggressive tools like that are.
On the topic of strings, for people who find their guitar a little hard to play. I'd suggest asking your local store if they stock 8's which are super light.
When I started i was very heavy handed and also found bar chords super hard to play. Playing with the more delicate 8s made it easier to develop my technique.
They're not the best for tone however but are great to practice with.
Thanks for this! I fished out my 1984 hohner strat copy out of the attic - not played in 36 years. This gave me the confidence to set up the neck and everything else. Still to set up trem and has a dodgey selector switch. Cheers!
Completely agree with Lee’s comments of having never used a ruler to measure action. So many “guitar setup” videos on YT recommend certain heights. Just setup as you like, it’s that simple. Here a little buzz? Check the action or neck relief. Keep at it until it’s just right.
Thank you guys at Anderson’s. This is exactly the kind of video I needed 5 years ago and that I would share in a heartbeat with newer players.
Good old Captain Les Anderson
Please cover the pickups when you polish the frets. There is a magnet in the pickup that will catch all that extra metal you remove from the frets while polishing. Tape the pickups before doing any polishing.
Especially if using steel wool, as it will wreak absolute havoc on your pickups. If you wanna be extra safe, take your vacuum and suck it all up before uncovering the pickups again.
Yes, also Nickel is carcinogenic so may not be best to breath in the dust.
Don't watch the recent TPS video where Mick files out the bridge of his new Jason Isbell Tele while it's attached to the guitar (and the pickup), it's upsetting
Guitar frets are nickel silver (brass). They are not magnetic. Polishing compounds and micro mesh are also not magnetic. There is no danger of metal being attracted to your pickup doing as shown in this video. IF you choose to use steel wool then it would be sensible to cover the pickup and work away from it. Now, nickel may be a carcinogen but the amount being removed is vanishingly small and for normal people, who won't be snorting up any and all residues, there is effectively no danger.
Oh - Stainless steel frets are a real thing. Most but not all stainless steels are non-magnetic. I have no direct experience of them but I would be surprised if frets were made from any of the magnetic versions
I just ordered a classic vibe purple telecaster from Andertons! Gonna be sick!
Very nice choice! Make sure to send us a photo on #andertonsmademedoit 🤘
@@andertons You bet!
@@andertons You bet!
@Thomas Pelley Absolutely! I had a Squier John 5 telecaster body with a fender neck. Best guitar ever
@Thomas Pelley i am used to playing vintage tokai and ibanez stuff and most modern stuff from gibson and fender just doesnt do it for me. Mostly because of the necks... anyways i got a classic vibe tele and this is easily one of the best guitars i have ever had
So im a reasonable newby to guitar and i bought a epiphone les paul vintage in cherry red and did not get on with it at all. Id never messed with it or done anything to it, until i watched this. Just altering the pickup heights and correcting the neck abit and i cant stop playing it now. Just goes to show setup is key 👍👍👍
I liked Pete's string stretching tip. Reminds me of something I heard about bass strings from Scott Devine at ScottsBassLessons. He said that for vintage-style tuners like in this video, sometimes when you snip your brand new string to the right length, that can cause the internal wire to slip relative to the wrapped wire; if you've ever found a brand new string to sound dead or thumpy, that's probably the reason. Again, more in reference to bass guitar strings. The solution is to crimp the string where you wanna snip it by bending it 90 degrees, and then snip it just on the other side of the crimp, leaving the crimp as basically the new tip of the string. The crimp causes the inner wire and outer wire to essentially lock in place with each other, ensuring they can't slip.
I do all my own maintenance repair (mechanic by trade) and by far the best $17 I ever spent was a device called "The String Strecha". They used to advertise in the back of guitar world magazine. The physics are spot on, and it works like a charm.
A before and after demonstration through the amp would have been awesome!
Wow.
How’d they miss that...
One important thing left out was intonation.
Details details :-)
The only guitars I’ve bought which arrived with intonation spot on were my 2 Burny Les Pauls, a P90 Goldtop and a 3 pickup Jimmy Page Black Beauty model with Bigsby!
Love those guitars!
@@ces69 yeah but with how much stuff they changed; Neck tension, string gauge, trem floating, they need to address intonation.
One of the most important tbh
Probably coz there’s no tools to promote for setting the intonation 😏
I like to use Carmex on my guitar nuts. I've tried all kinds of different types of nut lubes and I gotta say the Carmex has worked best. Really any petroleum based jellies should do the trick.
My Strat is set up to have a floating trem and I actually struggle to make it go out of tune.
Also, toothpicks and Q-tips are your best friends. Whether it's using them to apply lube to your nuts with them, cleaning tarnish off of bridge parts, filling stripped out holes... And a Q-tip has just enough cotton on the end that if you pull the cotton off, you can put it into your trem arm hole to tighten up the action on the trem arm without having to resort to tapes. It's especially useful for trems that have holes in the bridge block that springs would just fall out of because the fluffiness of the cotton keeps it in place better.
I'm a big fan of the vintage style slotted tuners, too. I go 2 tuners up and then clip the string. Fewer windings means less slack which can cause the slightest bit of string slippage, i.e, tuning problems.
Setting up the trem is important for tuning stability, as well. Tighten all 6 screws on a vintage style trem all the way. Then loosen the 4 middle ones by a quart of a turn. This puts the pivot points of the trem on the two outside screws and allows for some wiggle room while return the bridge to it's zero point.
Putting your favorite strings on and even just oiling a dry rosewood/pau ferro fretboard works wonders! Allows your hands and fingers to run smoothly up and down the neck. (Music nomad F-one oil) A little goes a long ways! Sometimes new guitars need saddle intonation and even slight bridge adjustments to your liking. I prefer a flat bridge and alot of new guitars come with a floating bridge. To each his or hers own. Those squier classic vibes are an awesome guitar for the money! Good stuff guys! Rock on!!
Mate! Talk about right on time! I literally just bought a new Strat... yesterday... and was planning on doing all the set up myself, and you guys bring me this video! You sir, (and other sir,) are absolute champions!
I’ve always set my Strats up exactly to Fender factory spec. It just feels perfect to me.
@@so5532 www.deluxeguitar.com/701/stratocaster-setup-guide/ couldn’t find the Fender page. They must have moved it again, but this is virtually word for word the same as the old Fender Mr Gearhead page. I use a British 20p coin at the 17th fret to set my action (which is 1.7mm) but otherwise this is bang on for me.
This is a seriously good video!... People might buy stuff, because they saw a good video, or read a good review.... but, how many people have been disappointed, because the guitar doesn't wanna stay in tune, or there's some fret buzz or whatever... it's simple things, but they make a big difference..
Now it plays and sounds like a custom shop ! Its true . My Squiers all do . Its what happens when you put an already very decent guitar in the right hands . Great video .
Just a brilliant vid for those of us starting out on guitar. Thanks guys. My new favourite guitar channel!
Good advice for any new player just starting out.
Setting up your own guitar is a skill well worth learning, and a lot cheaper than paying
for a full set up.
An highly skilled luthier will get your guitar to play at it's best and can be worth paying for
on an expensive guitar, but only you will eventually learn how you want your guitar to feel and sound.
I can higly recommend Monty's Wax for the way too light finish on modern fretboards.
As for nut sauce, yes it works, but a new nut will make a big difference.
I will say that it actually does help to wind the string UP on the tuning pegs for “3 a side” headstocks such as a Les Paul. I can’t remember where I heard it, but after trying it, the slightly shallower angle of the string by winding up does greatly increase tubing stability, most notably on the D and G string.
I heard that ,too,and plan on doing that to my Epiphone ES 335 as well. At least with the D and G strings.
That's such a better way to string up guitars than I was shown. Definitely doing it this way from now on
Perfect timing for this vid! Just picked up my metallic purple Squier Classic Vibe tele and Epiphone 1959 Les Paul (plus Katana 50W 1x12") from Andertons 2 days ago on Sunday afternoon!
I love watching these guys,I'm so into working on ,adjusting etc...,guitars.Learning from here,
What legends. I have a Seagull S6 Acoustic which was set up at shop for me. Decided to buy an electric, Ibanez GIO.when it came it had quite a bit of fret buzz & the trem was high. Following this video i have adjuasted the truss rod and eliminated the buzz, change strings (using slinkly hybrids), have got the trem flat witha little give and cleaned the frets. What a difference. The GIO was set up pretty bably i reckon from the box. Haven't adjust the pick up heights as of yet as sound ok for me at mo.
Great vid guys. Love the tip on getting the trem system to float. My trem is flat against the body of the guitar and hence can only dive the notes down. I'll adjust it this evening to get it to float.
PS..quick tip. Cut off a small section of each of the old strings. About say 2 inches each. You can then out the nut grooves.
4:18 "That one comes with an Ibanez, actually." That's a good deal! Getting a guitar if you buy the tool. :D
One thing I which I did more often when I was hitting it had playing shows was polish the frets more often. I use a buffing wheel on a dremel with polishing compound and it makes the frets look like mirrors which makes is so easy to play.
I agree, adjust to your feel, from fret out to feel is what I do.
Been playing 40 years, tried every brand of string, and have always settled on GHS Boomers, 10-46. On string up, I have found that going up two pegs is plenty long enough, and from my classic vibe, to my custom shop, and Boutique handcrafted guitars, tuning stability on all of them are extremely good at staying in tune. If you get a guitar, and it goes out of tune a lot, don't start with the tuners, as the most common reason for tuning instability is a poorly cut but, or one cut for a smaller gauge of strings. A good tech can fix that for a reasonable amount, I'd say a full pro set up being usually $60 or less in the US, it could likely be done well 8n the UK for £40-£50. If you are learning, it's a good investment on a new, or used instrument!
Peace, Keith Richmond VA
Thank you teacher!😄
Darrell Braun has a wonderful video of how to roll the fingerboard edges and polish the fret ends for super cheap.
Love me some Darrel Braun!
@@bobafett4889 Hmmmm...this is a guitar channel dude. 😳
Had to do the same with my AM Proll. Player preference is what it’s about. Sure there are a bunch of players out there who preference older duller worn in strings with a high action and a locked down trem.. Only addition to this vid would be the internation ! Always a good thing to check when you alter the bridge.. Nice work..👍🇦🇺
If you can’t find the fret polisher, go to a beauty supply store and pick up a fingernail buffer! One of the four sided ones. They work great and they’re only around $2.
absolutely do it to feel
the whole reason you are doing it is to make your instrument play better
and we all play by feel after 4 weeks
I find that the best guitar shops do these sort of tune up chores on their guitars as they come into their stock. I'm going to have to look into that fretboard wax. Looks pretty cool.
More vids like this please sooooo helpful for newbies, thanks guys
Late last year I bought a used Squire Strat at a very attractive price. I intend to upgrade it and this video really helped. Thanks!
My friend loaned me his 20 yrs old Yamaha acoustic guitar and I had to do something similar like putting on new string, adjust the truss rod, and general cleaning before I could even play the guitar. It is not a hard task to do for most people.
Been searching and failing and waiting for a video like this. Thanks! I'll use this for all my guitars.
Hot tip 2.0 .... the thicker your strings are the more tension on your neck ... New Stratocasters typically come with 9's which are a very thin Slinky string with not a lot of tension pulling on the neck ... jumping up to 10 guage strings will give you extra tension/pull on the neck and may eliminate any fret buzz before you think about getting tools out 👌
Jumping up string gauges will always require some adjustments .... intonation and action .... if you jump up to 11 or 12 gauge strings you will probably have to add springs to the trem
I had bought a Vintera Roadworn strat and when it came in I was a little peeved I had a little work to do on it. The trem was way up in the air and the action was terrible after setting that up properly. Frets were a little sharp and the pickups were all too high to my taste.
But after adjusting all of that , it has to be one of my favorite guitars.
Also, a huge boost on feel for your strings is you can order single strings of your preferred brand. Of course you'd order them after going to a guitar tension calculator website like stringjoy to enter in the scale length of your guitar to get them all close to the same. My go to for my Drop C guitar that's 25.5" is roughly aimed at 20lbs of tension and 17-ish for the lighter strings. I have my main guitars set up like this and haven't noticed any stability issues holding tuning, all while getting the tone, attack, and bendability that is roughly equal on every string. One catch is if you're one of those types to change tuning on the hour, then this isn't going to work. You have to stay in the same tuning more or less or all the balance will be lost. The point it so that you get the same feel on every string without having a need to buy a multiscale guitar, but it limits that guitar to whatever tuning you do the setup for. I still mess around with close tunings so it's not far off, but never fully changing out. For example going from CGCEGD to drop C is just fine and are my main tunings on that guitar. Also, I've only ever done this on guitars with hardtails I haven't tried fighting my floyd never-in-tune or my fender floater lol
A great little video, for all that stuff nobody tells you. thank you.
Good basic info without too much technical stuff.
After a bit of experience it's fun to delve into intonation black magic.
This video dropped at the right time for me. Am picking up the guitar for the first time in my life at the age of 34 and this is gonna help me loads! Cheers, guys! Been watching your videos for as long as I've been researching on guitars for the past few months now. Keep on rocking!
Glad we could help and good luck on your guitar journey! Make sure to stick around for more advice.
To break in new strings, I tune half a half step up on all 6 stribgs, play, tune again half a half step up, play for a bit. Then tune to pitch. Works everytime
Tip for tone. String up your guitar set it up then loosen the 4 neck screws a quarter of a turn until you hear a little pop then tighten back up, it will seat your neck properly giving it more contact and better resonance. Improves sound 100% 🙂
"How does it sound now?" If we knew how it sounded before.
Probably quite the same, most of those adjustments have to do with comfort and another neck plate is not going to make it sound any different.
I was about to ask for a video like this 😉 I do think acoustic guitars deserve one of their own, since there are less options for adjustment. Well done!
I have seen a ton of your videos and this is my favorite one.
Thanks again!
This is a terrific video. Arguably, your most helpful to most people.
There are players out there that rarely change their strings or clean their guitar...seems to work for them. Nice video!
I usually chek the intonation too. Impressive how off some guitars come.
Great video. You covered everything someone would need to know with the exception of correcting intonation issues. I also think you should have had a before and after for the neck plate so we could hear if there was an actual difference or not since I’m actually somewhat curious about it now.
ua-cam.com/video/n02tImce3AE/v-deo.html
please watch this and settle the old myths once and for all.
I LOL'd when they brought out the claims about better sound with that plate.
I bought a classic vibe 50s strat because of this channel, it's basically the same guitar as Lee's Clapton modded strat and I love it
Except without the mods lol
One last bit missing from your excellent video - checking and setting intonation!
6:37 absolutely I agree. All the gauge work is for those who doubt themselves
Love these style videos. Would love to see a few of the old challenge videos remade Captain vs Pete! The gig for £500, Build a pedal board for £xxx etc.. :)
Tips on adjusting individual string heights and setting intonation wouldv'e helped, as well as your opinion of what difference the neck plate made if any.
Just ordered a Sire S7. This video couldn't come any sooner, thanks!
1/2 way past the next post is perfect 1 1/2 posts gives you perfect wraps for the wound strings 2 - 2 1/2 posts up for the nonwound strings.
Damnit I was actually performing an uh.. adjustment when Lee said 'if you have sticky nuts'.
Interesting video to dedicate adjustments to. That's what they call a guitar fan.
Good advice, shortest easiest thing is to (almost) always get or do a setup with a new guitar. That’s one reason why S--w-r is such a great company here in the colonies, they go over all that. You alluded to or maybe outright said that adjusting the truss rod is an action adjustment. No question that adjusting the truss rod has an impact on the action, but with an instrument like the one you are working on the action needs adjusted on each string. That is probably more than you wanted to go over, but the truss rod is not for adjusting action. If the action for each string is out of whack no amount of adjusting the truss rod will make it right. Sorry, pet peeve
msspi764 I was waiting for someone to bring that up! Definitely a pet peeve of mine as well!
I just got my guitar set up at Guitar center. Now it's $80 instead of $50. I think just about everything went up because of the pandemic. Peace.
In the trussrod lesson you can hear Pete trying to interject some important info for those novice or amateur repair guys and that was him saying you should allow time to let the neck slowly adjust to the neck tension changes. Mr. A however disregarded what he was trying to tell us, possibly causing many future techs unnecessary problems.
Important note: keep neck tension changes to a quarter turn with 24-48 hours for natural relief/pressure. If more is needed, repeat the process. AN EXTREMELY VALUABLE TIP FOR BEGINNERS.
Very handy tips that you'll probably use on all but the most expensive guitars. Thanks.
extremely interesting, useful, and informative!! the best video yet!!
Love you guys. This was exactly the video I needed to see today. Keep up the good work DP and Captain Anderton!
Just used the Monty's Montypresso Original Guitar Relic Wax on a couple of my acoustics. Beautiful finish and feel !! I'll be dong my other guitars periodically when they're due string changes. Thanks for the heads-up on that product, guys ;-)