Wonderfully helpful video. I’ve got a ‘43 GPW thats been giving me fits. One of the prior owners removed the original fuel tank under the seat and sealed the hole, then replaced it with a tank under the back seat. Fast forward to the present time and the bottom of the tank is rusty all hell, the Facet fuel pump is full of rust, the original jeep fuel filter is kaput and full of rust. l removed it and saved the pieces in case anyone ever needs them. I then put the Facet on my bench and unscrewed the ends, lost the tiny spring for a while and never would have known it was missing if I hadn’t watched this video, found the tiny spring, knocked out the loose rust and removed the “O” ring. I then soaked the two ends in white vinegar (wonderful stuff) for about 8 hours to dissolve the stuck on rust, rinsed the ends in the horse trough, buffed as much of the inside of the barrel with both brass and nylon brushes. In reassembly I wiped some light oil on the surfaces, checked this video again for correct assembly order and put’er back together. So, at this point iI bench tested it and it oscillates and seems to have suction. Great fuel pump, only one I know of that you can repair. And, I wouldn’t have been to repair it without this video. Thank you!
I'm in the process of upgrading the mechanical points/Diaphragm pump on my motorcycle. Watching your video has given me confidence in what I'm doing. Thank you so much.
I always wondered how that thing worked : ) It turns out we have 2 of these pumps in use on our motorsailer; one as a backup fuel pump for a Perkins 6-cylinder diesel engine, and another to pump fuel into the reserve tank for cabin heat; 6 psi @ 2 gal/min.
I've got a Mitsubishi Diesel genset and it is only just over 12 months old but it won't start first time when very cold after being off for more than 15 hours. On the controller I get low oil pressure shutdown alarm after a failed start. Very worrying on a near new gennie! I've been complaining for months to the distributor while it was under warranty about the issue (not knowing the exact cause) but they have a way of making you jump through hoops before they look at it. Eventually I found if I prime my old lift pump with a jumper lead then it fires up no matter how cold it is. The electrical part of the old pump is the issue. When I first tried priming it I found it wouldn't tick so gave it a couple of wraps with a screwdriver handle and away it went. That's how I worked out my 3 cylinder Mitsubishi Diesel's oil pressure is in fact OK. Thank god for that! It turns out that the Mitsubishi sourced lift pump was subject to a recall if they failed under genset warranty. Anyhow the OEM diaphragm type lift pump is no good in freezing conditions and they suggested one of these (now at my expense). They told me a particular brand copy of these pumps are so reliable they've never had one fail and they [retro presumably] fit them a lot. Facet generic pump of a particular brand it is. Cheers for the vid.
If your diesel tank is below the gen set then you can cure your problem bu making sure that the diesel return pipe goes almost to the bottom of the tank. This makes it a closed loop and you don't get the fuel running back when the engine is stopped. It shouldn't anyway because of the check valves but in practice it will usually creep past them.
Well, I’m working on a ‘43 GPW that has one of these pumps and a really rusty fuel tank. I pulled the pump and although there is now a pre-filter I don’t think there always was one. In taking the little dickens apart I naturally dropped something. wish me luck on finding that smallest spring. Great video for showing all the parts in an exploded view.
THAT was incredibly useful. I have a Facet pump (not sure of model) in my Varieze. It is not a plans specified item, but it works great. It IS free flowing so with no electric applied, the fuel just runs right through. I have a gascolator immediately prior, and a fine mesh filter upstream just below the two tanks Y-connector. Mine functions as a boost pump and seems to help at altitude (>10K'). I have Totally wondered about the guts. Thanks for taking the time to disassemble it and carefully show everything. Great channel.
Jon. It looks as though this pump is not meant to be repaired but replaced when it breaks. After all we live in a throw away society now days. How much do these pumps cost?
I was hoping to use one as an oil pump for a small air cooled engine to run oil for a cooler. Says 180°F but after seeing the white plastic valves ill keep looking. An all metal gear pump would be best but trying to keep the price down.. Thank you for the sacrifice and the time.
What specific Facet model did you use for this video. Some have an anti-siphon check valve some don't. Some have a positive shut off and some don't. It would be nice to know which model we are looking at. Thanks for the great video.
I had the same question. I believe that the “cube style” Facet pumps like this one have a check valve which can be good in some applications (so fuel does not run backward) but there is some slight resistance to passive flow if pump is not energized. The cylindrical style Facet pumps have no check valve and thus I believe are considered “full flow-through”. I hope this helps.
While you have it apart, could you try splashing some fuel/alcohol on the foam? It should dissolve the foam, giving us a better look at the electronics board. Mogas/100LL/Jet-A shouldn't matter too much
it's the same thing as a wagner paint gun. I wonder if you could run that pump from a 3300 mah lipo for an hour? it says they're 1.6 amps, should run for 2 hours maybe
Can somebody tell me if the electronics simply energises/de-energises the electromagnet or does a sensor detect full travel of the shuttle and turn the transistor off, to reset the shuttle?
126 hrs on a Facet 40105 on my Rv12 and it failed at 9,000 ft. Pressure dropped to 2.5 psi. Enough to run the rotax on a long decent into the air park. I am going to take it apart and see why it stopped working. If I hit the pump with a small hammer, I can get it to work. New pump on order..
or you could just give your passenger the small hammer and tell them if the engine sounds sick, crawl under the instrument panel and hit the firewall a couple times :-)
Wish we would have talked to you before taking my working pump apart! :) Keep us informed on what you find, I'd be interested in knowing if it was an intermittent electrical issue or a mechanical failure.
The original mgb pump has contact points, they burn after awhile and give you the opportunity to file points on the side of the road in Saskatchewan. Ask me how I know.
Wonderfully helpful video. I’ve got a ‘43 GPW thats been giving me fits. One of the prior owners removed the original fuel tank under the seat and sealed the hole, then replaced it with a tank under the back seat. Fast forward to the present time and the bottom of the tank is rusty all hell, the Facet fuel pump is full of rust, the original jeep fuel filter is kaput and full of rust. l removed it and saved the pieces in case anyone ever needs them. I then put the Facet on my bench and unscrewed the ends, lost the tiny spring for a while and never would have known it was missing if I hadn’t watched this video, found the tiny spring, knocked out the loose rust and removed the “O” ring. I then soaked the two ends in white vinegar (wonderful stuff) for about 8 hours to dissolve the stuck on rust, rinsed the ends in the horse trough, buffed as much of the inside of the barrel with both brass and nylon brushes. In reassembly I wiped some light oil on the surfaces, checked this video again for correct assembly order and put’er back together. So, at this point iI bench tested it and it oscillates and seems to have suction. Great fuel pump, only one I know of that you can repair. And, I wouldn’t have been to repair it without this video. Thank you!
I'm in the process of upgrading the mechanical points/Diaphragm pump on my motorcycle. Watching your video has given me confidence in what I'm doing. Thank you so much.
I can't understate how valuable your videos are for the experimental community. Thank you.
I have one as a backup pump in my old range rover. I has saved me a couple of times. Simple design and reliable. Good vid.
I always wondered how that thing worked : ) It turns out we have 2 of these pumps in use on our motorsailer; one as a backup fuel pump for a Perkins 6-cylinder diesel engine, and another to pump fuel into the reserve tank for cabin heat; 6 psi @ 2 gal/min.
I've had three of these pumps in my homebuilt aircraft, with a pre-filter. 1260 hours and 13 years later all three still work like new.
I find this series to be very informative, thanks for the interesting content related to Amateur builders
I've got a Mitsubishi Diesel genset and it is only just over 12 months old but it won't start first time when very cold after being off for more than 15 hours. On the controller I get low oil pressure shutdown alarm after a failed start. Very worrying on a near new gennie!
I've been complaining for months to the distributor while it was under warranty about the issue (not knowing the exact cause) but they have a way of making you jump through hoops before they look at it.
Eventually I found if I prime my old lift pump with a jumper lead then it fires up no matter how cold it is. The electrical part of the old pump is the issue. When I first tried priming it I found it wouldn't tick so gave it a couple of wraps with a screwdriver handle and away it went. That's how I worked out my 3 cylinder Mitsubishi Diesel's oil pressure is in fact OK. Thank god for that!
It turns out that the Mitsubishi sourced lift pump was subject to a recall if they failed under genset warranty.
Anyhow the OEM diaphragm type lift pump is no good in freezing conditions and they suggested one of these (now at my expense). They told me a particular brand copy of these pumps are so reliable they've never had one fail and they [retro presumably] fit them a lot.
Facet generic pump of a particular brand it is. Cheers for the vid.
If your diesel tank is below the gen set then you can cure your problem bu making sure that the diesel return pipe goes almost to the bottom of the tank. This makes it a closed loop and you don't get the fuel running back when the engine is stopped. It shouldn't anyway because of the check valves but in practice it will usually creep past them.
Appreciate you guys taking one apart. Good to know.
Well, I’m working on a ‘43 GPW that has one of these pumps and a really rusty fuel tank. I pulled the pump and although there is now a pre-filter I don’t think there always was one. In taking the little dickens apart I naturally dropped something. wish me luck on finding that smallest spring.
Great video for showing all the parts in an exploded view.
THAT was incredibly useful. I have a Facet pump (not sure of model) in my Varieze. It is not a plans specified item, but it works great. It IS free flowing so with no electric applied, the fuel just runs right through. I have a gascolator immediately prior, and a fine mesh filter upstream just below the two tanks Y-connector. Mine functions as a boost pump and seems to help at altitude (>10K'). I have Totally wondered about the guts. Thanks for taking the time to disassemble it and carefully show everything. Great channel.
Great video. Excellent to understand how it works.
I was wondering how this "solid state" fuel pump worked. Thanks for tearing one apart and showing us how. Cheers from Winnipeg.
Re my question about electronic, an exploded diagram answered the question- there is no sensor so the unit is a free running oscillator.
Thanks for the cool video. Nice to know how this pump works.
Thanks, I wasn't sure if the pump needed an interrupted signal to cycle, now I know, thanks again!
Thank you for the excellent video!
Great idea and video....For those of us who were just guessing. Thank you!
I would guess that the solid state oscillator is set to a frequency close to the resonant frequency of the mechanical spring/piston assembly.
Love your videos! Thanks for all of the great info.
Thanks for this breakdown video!
I have one of those in my daily driver mgb, never had an issue, unlike the stock su unit.
basically a coil actuated shaker valve
Jon. It looks as though this pump is not meant to be repaired but replaced when it breaks. After all we live in a throw away society now days.
How much do these pumps cost?
I was hoping to use one as an oil pump for a small air cooled engine to run oil for a cooler. Says 180°F but after seeing the white plastic valves ill keep looking. An all metal gear pump would be best but trying to keep the price down..
Thank you for the sacrifice and the time.
What specific Facet model did you use for this video. Some have an anti-siphon check valve some don't. Some have a positive shut off and some don't. It would be nice to know which model we are looking at. Thanks for the great video.
40-108
I had the same question. I believe that the “cube style” Facet pumps like this one have a check valve which can be good in some applications (so fuel does not run backward) but there is some slight resistance to passive flow if pump is not energized. The cylindrical style Facet pumps have no check valve and thus I believe are considered “full flow-through”. I hope this helps.
While you have it apart, could you try splashing some fuel/alcohol on the foam? It should dissolve the foam, giving us a better look at the electronics board. Mogas/100LL/Jet-A shouldn't matter too much
Perfect video!
Thanks
it's the same thing as a wagner paint gun.
I wonder if you could run that pump from a 3300 mah lipo for an hour? it says they're 1.6 amps, should run for 2 hours maybe
Thank you!
Can somebody tell me if the electronics simply energises/de-energises the electromagnet or does a sensor detect full travel of the shuttle and turn the transistor off, to reset the shuttle?
This is what they mean when they say "No user serviceable parts inside".
awesome thanks
CARB CLEANER WOULD HAVE MELTED AWAY ALL THE FOAM
Hi what's the price of that pump
126 hrs on a Facet 40105 on my Rv12 and it failed at 9,000 ft. Pressure dropped to 2.5 psi. Enough to run the rotax on a long decent into the air park. I am going to take it apart and see why it stopped working. If I hit the pump with a small hammer, I can get it to work. New pump on order..
Gord - did you have a pre filter in that system?
or you could just give your passenger the small hammer and tell them if the engine sounds sick, crawl under the instrument panel and hit the firewall a couple times :-)
Wish we would have talked to you before taking my working pump apart! :) Keep us informed on what you find, I'd be interested in knowing if it was an intermittent electrical issue or a mechanical failure.
thats why they are banned from aircraft
@@HomebuiltHELP no pre filter. Looking for one now..
I think acetone would have eat that insulation out of there
there History is : It will quit working, when you need it the most.
Yeah, so a work around could be to run two in series with only one operating since they flow when not energized, yeah? I'm hearin' ya though.
I wouldn’t use one on an airplane, I’ve used these on my Jeep and they quit for no reason. Rotary pump are much better and dependable.
right on
I think my MGB has a fuel pump that works the same way.
you have an SU pump in your car
The original mgb pump has contact points, they burn after awhile and give you the opportunity to file points on the side of the road in Saskatchewan. Ask me how I know.
I dont even like these pumps on my tractor let alone a airplane😁
very sensitive instrument indeed i wonder if a Eletric Magnetic frm the sun Pulse could affect the coil and demage it by blocking or smthng...
if you are worried about solar flare etc. just RF shield it and attach the shield to ground (electrical), then it would withstand an EMP.
@@deanyoung8812 thank you , i Got you, it gotta solve my worries , many thanks @dean young.👍
These pumps are such pcs of crap. Cant imagine betting my life on one. U might get one to last 5 yrs the next 5 minutes