Thank you for all your content, so great to get thoughtful reviews and advice! What do each of you weigh, trying to decide if your favorite wings will work for me too. Thanks!
Tails dictate a lot about the carving. Carve tails roll over much easier than glide or surf risks. The size of the tail and the length of the fuse dictates the pitch stability. You can dramatically change the feel of a front wing by changing tails. On the gen 4 battery, I’ve seen the same thing. The estimated ride times not accurate, but can be improved with a larger front foil. Give a larger front wing with a small carve tails and see how that goes!
I've now fully tested my riding times through my standard half-mile course with everything I own and every combination. The glide stabs make my carves smoother and allow me to smear my tail laterally with less upper body adjustments than the carve stabs. NOTE: I've trained myself to check for boats on all my turns and in this clip you can see how much just turning my head affects the flight ua-cam.com/video/WShtZsqpCWQ/v-deo.htmlsi=7N8_29Zso9Suykha&t=78 I need to un-learn this when in course but re-learn it for normal lake riding. The glide stab allows me to hit my turns in a race at a much higher speed. So far my best times for racing comes from a 100 SurfV2 and a 36 Glide. Anything larger than the 100 SurfV2 produces too much lift and anything smaller decreases my ability to carve. A course isn't about just going fast, it is about accuracy and ability to change direction with minimal speed loss. If it were just a straightaway, I COULD use my 60SurfV2 but I still max out at around 34mph because the LCS pro is limited by cavitation as it gets close to 34mph. As far as I can tell with everything I've tried the max speed these boards can go is 34mph not because of power, or wing, but because of prop cavitation and of all the options the LCS prop seems to be the most aggressive, highest torquing, and lowest drag and cavitation of all the options. I don't really like larger wings because they make the ride WAY too stiff and the loss in agility and turning radius is too annoying BUT when I want to go slower, like I'm riding with friends or training someone, I do like the 160 camber because it is still nimble but maintains flight at much lower speeds. So when I need to do lots of 180s to go back and help my friend figure out why she keeps falling, the camber is my low speed/high agility option and there I still prefer the 36glide because again it makes smearing the tail laterally easier to perform so I can get back to the person I'm training much faster than I can with a carve stab. I think the only advantage the carve stabs give is a stiffer response on tail slides which may come in handy for a beginner but provide unnecessary stabilization stiffness for my purposes.
Have you tried any of the high aspect wings? I'm a big fan of their new 150 HA X wing myself, it's amazing for surfing and seems very efficient for long range trips in large bodies of water. I want to try out their smaller high aspect X wing as well but I haven't had the chance yet. Do you think the Camber pro series have as high of top speed potential as the smaller Surf series wings or in your opinion is a small Surf the quickest to ride on?
I have tried them and for surfing, they are efficient and ideal. The HA was designed to deliver long sweeping glides at lower power settings and even unpowered using the folding prop. The downside is that they don't perform well at very high speeds. So for my purposes in flat water and at the speeds I like to fly, the slight vibration that those thinner longer wings generate throw me off and destroy my accuracy in my carves. So pick the right wing for your goals and pick the right size for your weight.
If he's got a board lighter, faster, and more agile than my Lift4 Pro, I'm interested. Based on his site and the RGB LEDs on his boards, I have my doubts that his boards are focusing on performance over more frivolous features. I could be wrong, but a RBF says I'm not.
ua-cam.com/video/zWsmZhHS0T8/v-deo.htmlsi=uNVVxUtjH4NfXFqI I had the battery remaining get stuck on 60% just once. Ride it until it dropped dead. Lift4 too. I’m only getting 1h:10m at 180 pounds. Riding the 160 Camber Pro front wing and the 36 glide.
### This response was provided by the Verdant Ride GPT: [chatgpt.com/g/g-fwDABnTTY-verdant-ride-efoil-news-reviews-advice](chatgpt.com/g/g-fwDABnTTY-verdant-ride-efoil-news-reviews-advice) 🤖 --- Hey @TomHoffmanJr, It sounds like you’re encountering a couple of issues with your Lift4 eFoil. Here’s a rundown of some possible causes and solutions: ### Battery Remaining Stuck at 60% 1. **Battery Calibration**: - Occasionally, the battery percentage display can get out of sync. , Perform a reset then try a full discharge and then a full recharge to recalibrate the battery sensor. 2. **Reset and Balancing Process**: After a full charge, run your battery down to around 50% and keep it there for about 48 hours. This helps balance the cells and can improve the accuracy of the battery meter. You may need to add a few minutes of charge from time to time to keep it at 50% if you notice your battery draining during the process. 3. **Software Update**: - Ensure your firmware is up-to-date. Lift often releases updates that fix these kinds of issues. 4. **Battery Health Check**: - If the problem persists, it might be a sign of a deeper issue with the battery itself. Consider contacting Lift for a diagnostic check. ### Ride Time of 1 Hour and 10 Minutes Your ride time of 1h:10m is relatively standard, especially given your setup and weight: 1. **Wing Efficiency**: - The 160 Camber Pro front wing and 36 Glide stabilizer are known for performance, but they can be slightly less efficient compared to some larger wings. If maximizing ride time is a priority, you might consider trying a different wing setup. 2. **Rider Weight**: - At 180 pounds, you're in a pretty typical weight range. However, any additional weight (gear, water in wetsuit, etc.) can impact battery performance. 3. **Riding Style**: - Aggressive riding, higher speeds, and frequent accelerations can reduce battery life. For longer rides, try maintaining a steady, moderate speed. ### Recommendations: - **Try Stephan’s Favorite Wing**: - The 160 Camber Pro is excellent for freestyle and carving, but if you’re looking for extended battery life, you might want to experiment with wings like the 200 Surf V2 or even the 250 Surf V2, which offer more lift and stability, potentially giving you a bit more ride time. - **Battery Care Tips**: - Always end your ride with at least 25% battery remaining. This practice can help prolong the overall life of your battery. - Allow the battery to cool for about 15 minutes between riding and charging. If these tips don’t resolve the issue, it might be worth reaching out to Lift directly for more personalized support. Hope this helps, and happy eFoiling! 🤙 --- Source: eFoil_Knowledge_V2.txt
Thank you for all your content, so great to get thoughtful reviews and advice! What do each of you weigh, trying to decide if your favorite wings will work for me too. Thanks!
I'm a buck-eighty-five and I prefer the 100 Surf/32 Glide
Tails dictate a lot about the carving. Carve tails roll over much easier than glide or surf risks. The size of the tail and the length of the fuse dictates the pitch stability. You can dramatically change the feel of a front wing by changing tails.
On the gen 4 battery, I’ve seen the same thing. The estimated ride times not accurate, but can be improved with a larger front foil.
Give a larger front wing with a small carve tails and see how that goes!
I've now fully tested my riding times through my standard half-mile course with everything I own and every combination. The glide stabs make my carves smoother and allow me to smear my tail laterally with less upper body adjustments than the carve stabs. NOTE: I've trained myself to check for boats on all my turns and in this clip you can see how much just turning my head affects the flight ua-cam.com/video/WShtZsqpCWQ/v-deo.htmlsi=7N8_29Zso9Suykha&t=78 I need to un-learn this when in course but re-learn it for normal lake riding.
The glide stab allows me to hit my turns in a race at a much higher speed. So far my best times for racing comes from a 100 SurfV2 and a 36 Glide. Anything larger than the 100 SurfV2 produces too much lift and anything smaller decreases my ability to carve. A course isn't about just going fast, it is about accuracy and ability to change direction with minimal speed loss. If it were just a straightaway, I COULD use my 60SurfV2 but I still max out at around 34mph because the LCS pro is limited by cavitation as it gets close to 34mph. As far as I can tell with everything I've tried the max speed these boards can go is 34mph not because of power, or wing, but because of prop cavitation and of all the options the LCS prop seems to be the most aggressive, highest torquing, and lowest drag and cavitation of all the options.
I don't really like larger wings because they make the ride WAY too stiff and the loss in agility and turning radius is too annoying BUT when I want to go slower, like I'm riding with friends or training someone, I do like the 160 camber because it is still nimble but maintains flight at much lower speeds. So when I need to do lots of 180s to go back and help my friend figure out why she keeps falling, the camber is my low speed/high agility option and there I still prefer the 36glide because again it makes smearing the tail laterally easier to perform so I can get back to the person I'm training much faster than I can with a carve stab. I think the only advantage the carve stabs give is a stiffer response on tail slides which may come in handy for a beginner but provide unnecessary stabilization stiffness for my purposes.
Have you tried any of the high aspect wings? I'm a big fan of their new 150 HA X wing myself, it's amazing for surfing and seems very efficient for long range trips in large bodies of water. I want to try out their smaller high aspect X wing as well but I haven't had the chance yet. Do you think the Camber pro series have as high of top speed potential as the smaller Surf series wings or in your opinion is a small Surf the quickest to ride on?
I have tried them and for surfing, they are efficient and ideal. The HA was designed to deliver long sweeping glides at lower power settings and even unpowered using the folding prop. The downside is that they don't perform well at very high speeds. So for my purposes in flat water and at the speeds I like to fly, the slight vibration that those thinner longer wings generate throw me off and destroy my accuracy in my carves. So pick the right wing for your goals and pick the right size for your weight.
You should contact Carey Missler at MSLR, he's looking for reviews on his boards. I currently have the MSLR board and brand new to the sport.
If he's got a board lighter, faster, and more agile than my Lift4 Pro, I'm interested. Based on his site and the RGB LEDs on his boards, I have my doubts that his boards are focusing on performance over more frivolous features. I could be wrong, but a RBF says I'm not.
ua-cam.com/video/zWsmZhHS0T8/v-deo.htmlsi=uNVVxUtjH4NfXFqI I had the battery remaining get stuck on 60% just once. Ride it until it dropped dead. Lift4 too. I’m only getting 1h:10m at 180 pounds. Riding the 160 Camber Pro front wing and the 36 glide.
### This response was provided by the Verdant Ride GPT: [chatgpt.com/g/g-fwDABnTTY-verdant-ride-efoil-news-reviews-advice](chatgpt.com/g/g-fwDABnTTY-verdant-ride-efoil-news-reviews-advice) 🤖
---
Hey @TomHoffmanJr,
It sounds like you’re encountering a couple of issues with your Lift4 eFoil. Here’s a rundown of some possible causes and solutions:
### Battery Remaining Stuck at 60%
1. **Battery Calibration**:
- Occasionally, the battery percentage display can get out of sync. , Perform a reset then try a full discharge and then a full recharge to recalibrate the battery sensor.
2. **Reset and Balancing Process**:
After a full charge, run your battery down to around 50% and keep it there for about 48 hours. This helps balance the cells and can improve the accuracy of the battery meter. You may need to add a few minutes of charge from time to time to keep it at 50% if you notice your battery draining during the process.
3. **Software Update**:
- Ensure your firmware is up-to-date. Lift often releases updates that fix these kinds of issues.
4. **Battery Health Check**:
- If the problem persists, it might be a sign of a deeper issue with the battery itself. Consider contacting Lift for a diagnostic check.
### Ride Time of 1 Hour and 10 Minutes
Your ride time of 1h:10m is relatively standard, especially given your setup and weight:
1. **Wing Efficiency**:
- The 160 Camber Pro front wing and 36 Glide stabilizer are known for performance, but they can be slightly less efficient compared to some larger wings. If maximizing ride time is a priority, you might consider trying a different wing setup.
2. **Rider Weight**:
- At 180 pounds, you're in a pretty typical weight range. However, any additional weight (gear, water in wetsuit, etc.) can impact battery performance.
3. **Riding Style**:
- Aggressive riding, higher speeds, and frequent accelerations can reduce battery life. For longer rides, try maintaining a steady, moderate speed.
### Recommendations:
- **Try Stephan’s Favorite Wing**:
- The 160 Camber Pro is excellent for freestyle and carving, but if you’re looking for extended battery life, you might want to experiment with wings like the 200 Surf V2 or even the 250 Surf V2, which offer more lift and stability, potentially giving you a bit more ride time.
- **Battery Care Tips**:
- Always end your ride with at least 25% battery remaining. This practice can help prolong the overall life of your battery.
- Allow the battery to cool for about 15 minutes between riding and charging.
If these tips don’t resolve the issue, it might be worth reaching out to Lift directly for more personalized support.
Hope this helps, and happy eFoiling! 🤙
---
Source: eFoil_Knowledge_V2.txt