excellent video you have really addressed the problems of faceplants because of water in the compartment. I had some water problems, put in a new seal, still had some water. lift suggested putting a little Vaseline spread around the casket. no more leaks.......tom
Glad it helped. I think you'll find that the silicon lube goes on better, is less messy, and doesn't harm rubber products nearly as much. Petroleum products are not known for having inert relationships with other pliable materials.
I cannot wait to hear what you have to say about what Lift is about to announce in the next few days or weeks. Seeing the reduced price on the lift 4 I am so tempted to buy. Still expensive, but that price reduction of 4k is huge.
Me too. Unfortunately you can no longer buy the Lift4 Pro which kinda blows, but must mean they got something big (I mean small and light) in the works. I'm hoping for some radical innovations from them.
Did you mention leaving the hatch propped open as much as possible between uses? One of my boards had been stored for a long time with the hatch closed and the latches locked down. The first time I used it, it ended up with a lot of water in the enclosure. Since then, I’ve stored both boards with their hatches propped open to allow the gaskets to relax and they stay bone dry. To this day I’ve not had a single incident of FPS.
great channel! just subscribed, thanks for all the tips and content!. Any suggestion to avoid/ deal with ankle soreness? Mostly back foot, after a lake day turning in and out of boat's wakes. Thanks again, currently binging!
I think that a solution to your ankle soreness relies largely on the reason for your ankle getting sore. Is it tendonitis, stiffness dues to a past injury, arthritis, or poor ergonomics in your riding style? Is it just over exertion? Perhaps try riding switch stance to give your ankle a rest.
Enjoying your videos! This one was particularly interesting for me because I have a Lift 3F that was literally filling with water on every ride since a purchased it. It took >1 year and 3 return shipments of the board to their manufacturing site in Puerto Rico before they finally identified a crack and replaced the board (despite asking Lift to test the board before each attempted repair, they did not only for me to quickly find the first two attempts to fix failed). Long story, but what is relevant to this video is that I never experienced FPS despite all that water. I was very consistent in keeping the electronic connections coated with that green liquid they provide (which is also likely some hydrophobic substance, perhaps silicone based as well). Consequently, I am wondering if water intrusion really is the cause, or if applying the “green stuff” to the connections would suffice. Seems like Lift should be aware and help troubleshoot, even provide a general update if this is a common issue.
Dude, you had a CRAPPY introduction to eFoiling and to Lift and I'm sorry you had to go through it. As for water and LFS. Well, I gotta say it is a bit of a mystery. All I can say is that with 5 boards I've dealt with, keeping them dry eliminated LFS completely. Even if that was just a strange coink-e-dink, I'm going with keeping the internals dry is just a good idea nonetheless. Keep riding and I hope the rest of your efoil experiences are nothing but smooth sailing. You deserve it.
check the bracket holding the battery in the hinge end for play. If its to much play, the battery will press the hatch up during radical movment and thus getting water in compartment!
I've never had that issue BUT I do notice it sliding side to side when cranking and banking. I fixed that with two epoxy domed adhesive bumpers on the sides of the battery compartment. Now it sits tight no matter what I do when riding.
@VerdantRide I started notice this after demonstrating the power of the board by doing just board full throtle flipping the board around. After that i noticed a litle water in the compartment after every trip. I adjusted the bracket and then i had no problem. I think this might only be a problem if you had a crash that makes that bracket move.
Thanks for the idea! I have a GetFoil foil and every now and then it instantly drops at a totally unpredictable time. One time the board dove hard and then popped back up. It nailed my ankle as I flew over the nose. That sucked big time for a month or so. I have had water in my board many times and I never gave it a thought. I will definitely keep track of that now and see if water intrusion is present on a day that the connection dropped. I also think that dielectric grease would work fine and is safe on seals. Thank you.
Sure, you could use grease, but it is way messier, toxic, and super bad for the environment. Since I only need to treat my gasket 2x per year, I think I can afford to use a product that works nearly as well without the bad stuff and since I always have it around for other purposes anyway, it's just easier to keep on hand without busting into my CNC toolbox.
The volume of water in the perimeter of the hatch can be reduced before opening, if you use your fist and pound around the perimeter. Pounding around the perimeter will vibrate and explode the water out of the crevice. This is a trick that I've used when I used to own an efoil similar to Lift. It's interesting that you also mentioned a crack in the nose of the board. Earlier this season I had experience with a rental Fliteboard that started having connection issues at the end of the ride. It was fine at the start, but worse and worse later. It had a 2-in long significant crack in the nose that was exposing the foam. So apparently water in the nose can affect Flite brand as well... That or coincidentally there was some other issue that was happening. Overall, helpful advice for any compartment style board to care for the gasket and hatch.
Hi Verdant Ride - Im a Flightboard owner and love your very professional videos & technical insight. I live near Idaho & Canadian border where it's cold, similar to your location. I have an unheated garage where I fear it's too cold for battery storage & don't want to store the battery in the house where its warmer. What do you recommend I do to protect both? rgds & thanks, Mike
Every year, I bring my boards into my house to keep them from freezing because I fear any water anywhere hidden from me in the board may destroy seals and fragile internal components. I do store my batteries inside. My solution is to store them a concrete room in the deepest part of my house and I have them on automated chargers that give each of them 5 minutes of juice about 1-2 times per month based on each battery's rate of drain to keep them at 50% charge all winter long. I do think that the actual chance of fire occurring to a battery that has not been dropped or damaged is VERY, VERY LOW! But is you are worried about it and don't have a fireproof room, here are your 3 options I see as pretty easy to build. Warning, I'm not a trained in anything that should make you trust me at all. Everything I'm about to say is 100% intuitive garage-logic and completely untested. Proceed at your own risk. Cheap: 1. Build a small fireproof container out of firebricks rated at many thousand degrees of thermal capacity. You will find these for sale at most hardware stores in their woodburning stove department. All you gotta do is glue these bricks together using refractory mortar also rated to take the heat. Then I'd buy a big ass rubbermaid storage container, plop your battery inside your custom firebrick container and start pouring sand over it until it is totally surrounded. This way if your even if your battery experiences that blast-style critical event vs the slow-burn style critical event, it is somewhat more likely to stay contained. 2. Buy a fire resistant container used for flammable liquid storage. These will cost about $200 to fit a battery and are designed to keep fires from spreading, BUT as far as I can tell, no UL tests have actually tested them on batteries such as these going thermal, so they may or may not works. 3. Store them in a fire-rated safe or an actual woodburnding stove. I heard about this one from an audience member that who was looking into buying containers rated to handle these batteries if they go critical but found that he'd be looking at 10k for 4 batteries. Then he realized he could just spend 1 K on a large safe that was rated to keep everything inside safe even in fire as hot as these batteries could get. Ultimately he realized he could just keep them his woodburning stove which he never used in the summer anyway. He ran charging cables through the air intake pipe and then felt safe charging them indoors. Would any of these strategies work in the event of a fire going critical? Well, they will probably contain the fire somewhat better than charging them in a cedar chest where you also happen to store your collection of antique matchbooks and historically relative newspapers. Again, I've never had a fire. I've never heard from any of my audience members that they have had a fire, and whenever I try to follow up on someone who comes in with photos and a story of a fire, I can usually prove the photo was not genuine. The photo was not taken by the person in the place and time when the person claimed the photo was taken. I also have struggled being able to get fire reports from these people even when I directly ask to see the findings from the Fire Department or Insurance Company that most certainly would have been involved in fires such as these. Due to a significant shortage of evidence that should be easily available for these people to provide to prove their credibility, I'm going to go out on a limb and say that at least most of these claims are made by people who are completely full of it. Now if you were riding a different brand, other than Flite or Lift, my advice would be more likely to be something akin to, "get a giant vat of monoammonium phosphate and store them in there."
@@mikestephens4589 www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0BC1B7H4D/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o02_s03?ie=UTF8&th=1 These allow you to program the 4 plugs independently so you can maintain multiple batteries all off of a single power outlet. Rated to 2100 joules of surge protection. According to the VerdantRideGPT, it can handle it as long as I don't try to charge more than 1 battery at a time in the schedule.
Smart
excellent video you have really addressed the problems of faceplants because of water in the compartment. I had some water problems, put in a new seal, still had some water. lift suggested putting a little Vaseline spread around the casket. no more leaks.......tom
Glad it helped. I think you'll find that the silicon lube goes on better, is less messy, and doesn't harm rubber products nearly as much. Petroleum products are not known for having inert relationships with other pliable materials.
I cannot wait to hear what you have to say about what Lift is about to announce in the next few days or weeks. Seeing the reduced price on the lift 4 I am so tempted to buy. Still expensive, but that price reduction of 4k is huge.
Me too. Unfortunately you can no longer buy the Lift4 Pro which kinda blows, but must mean they got something big (I mean small and light) in the works. I'm hoping for some radical innovations from them.
@@VerdantRideI bought a Lift 4 Pro with the sale through a local dealer last week, so it’s possible to get them at a discount.
@@remingtonm I'll have to check in with Zen Watersports to see if I can still get a Pro.
Did you mention leaving the hatch propped open as much as possible between uses? One of my boards had been stored for a long time with the hatch closed and the latches locked down. The first time I used it, it ended up with a lot of water in the enclosure. Since then, I’ve stored both boards with their hatches propped open to allow the gaskets to relax and they stay bone dry. To this day I’ve not had a single incident of FPS.
No, but I thought everyone knew how to store their boards with the cover open because its in the manual and just seems pretty obvious.
great channel! just subscribed, thanks for all the tips and content!. Any suggestion to avoid/ deal with ankle soreness? Mostly back foot, after a lake day turning in and out of boat's wakes. Thanks again, currently binging!
I think that a solution to your ankle soreness relies largely on the reason for your ankle getting sore. Is it tendonitis, stiffness dues to a past injury, arthritis, or poor ergonomics in your riding style? Is it just over exertion? Perhaps try riding switch stance to give your ankle a rest.
Enjoying your videos! This one was particularly interesting for me because I have a Lift 3F that was literally filling with water on every ride since a purchased it. It took >1 year and 3 return shipments of the board to their manufacturing site in Puerto Rico before they finally identified a crack and replaced the board (despite asking Lift to test the board before each attempted repair, they did not only for me to quickly find the first two attempts to fix failed). Long story, but what is relevant to this video is that I never experienced FPS despite all that water. I was very consistent in keeping the electronic connections coated with that green liquid they provide (which is also likely some hydrophobic substance, perhaps silicone based as well). Consequently, I am wondering if water intrusion really is the cause, or if applying the “green stuff” to the connections would suffice. Seems like Lift should be aware and help troubleshoot, even provide a general update if this is a common issue.
Dude, you had a CRAPPY introduction to eFoiling and to Lift and I'm sorry you had to go through it. As for water and LFS. Well, I gotta say it is a bit of a mystery. All I can say is that with 5 boards I've dealt with, keeping them dry eliminated LFS completely. Even if that was just a strange coink-e-dink, I'm going with keeping the internals dry is just a good idea nonetheless.
Keep riding and I hope the rest of your efoil experiences are nothing but smooth sailing. You deserve it.
check the bracket holding the battery in the hinge end for play. If its to much play, the battery will press the hatch up during radical movment and thus getting water in compartment!
I've never had that issue BUT I do notice it sliding side to side when cranking and banking. I fixed that with two epoxy domed adhesive bumpers on the sides of the battery compartment. Now it sits tight no matter what I do when riding.
@VerdantRide I started notice this after demonstrating the power of the board by doing just board full throtle flipping the board around. After that i noticed a litle water in the compartment after every trip. I adjusted the bracket and then i had no problem. I think this might only be a problem if you had a crash that makes that bracket move.
Thanks for the idea!
I have a GetFoil foil and every now and then it instantly drops at a totally unpredictable time. One time the board dove hard and then popped back up. It nailed my ankle as I flew over the nose. That sucked big time for a month or so. I have had water in my board many times and I never gave it a thought. I will definitely keep track of that now and see if water intrusion is present on a day that the connection dropped.
I also think that dielectric grease would work fine and is safe on seals.
Thank you.
Sure, you could use grease, but it is way messier, toxic, and super bad for the environment. Since I only need to treat my gasket 2x per year, I think I can afford to use a product that works nearly as well without the bad stuff and since I always have it around for other purposes anyway, it's just easier to keep on hand without busting into my CNC toolbox.
Ok, thanks
The volume of water in the perimeter of the hatch can be reduced before opening, if you use your fist and pound around the perimeter. Pounding around the perimeter will vibrate and explode the water out of the crevice. This is a trick that I've used when I used to own an efoil similar to Lift.
It's interesting that you also mentioned a crack in the nose of the board. Earlier this season I had experience with a rental Fliteboard that started having connection issues at the end of the ride. It was fine at the start, but worse and worse later. It had a 2-in long significant crack in the nose that was exposing the foam. So apparently water in the nose can affect Flite brand as well... That or coincidentally there was some other issue that was happening.
Overall, helpful advice for any compartment style board to care for the gasket and hatch.
Thanks, glad you liked it.
Hi Verdant Ride - Im a Flightboard owner and love your very professional videos & technical insight. I live near Idaho & Canadian border where it's cold, similar to your location. I have an unheated garage where I fear it's too cold for battery storage & don't want to store the battery in the house where its warmer. What do you recommend I do to protect both? rgds & thanks, Mike
Every year, I bring my boards into my house to keep them from freezing because I fear any water anywhere hidden from me in the board may destroy seals and fragile internal components. I do store my batteries inside. My solution is to store them a concrete room in the deepest part of my house and I have them on automated chargers that give each of them 5 minutes of juice about 1-2 times per month based on each battery's rate of drain to keep them at 50% charge all winter long.
I do think that the actual chance of fire occurring to a battery that has not been dropped or damaged is VERY, VERY LOW! But is you are worried about it and don't have a fireproof room, here are your 3 options I see as pretty easy to build.
Warning, I'm not a trained in anything that should make you trust me at all. Everything I'm about to say is 100% intuitive garage-logic and completely untested. Proceed at your own risk.
Cheap:
1. Build a small fireproof container out of firebricks rated at many thousand degrees of thermal capacity. You will find these for sale at most hardware stores in their woodburning stove department. All you gotta do is glue these bricks together using refractory mortar also rated to take the heat. Then I'd buy a big ass rubbermaid storage container, plop your battery inside your custom firebrick container and start pouring sand over it until it is totally surrounded. This way if your even if your battery experiences that blast-style critical event vs the slow-burn style critical event, it is somewhat more likely to stay contained.
2. Buy a fire resistant container used for flammable liquid storage. These will cost about $200 to fit a battery and are designed to keep fires from spreading, BUT as far as I can tell, no UL tests have actually tested them on batteries such as these going thermal, so they may or may not works.
3. Store them in a fire-rated safe or an actual woodburnding stove. I heard about this one from an audience member that who was looking into buying containers rated to handle these batteries if they go critical but found that he'd be looking at 10k for 4 batteries. Then he realized he could just spend 1 K on a large safe that was rated to keep everything inside safe even in fire as hot as these batteries could get. Ultimately he realized he could just keep them his woodburning stove which he never used in the summer anyway. He ran charging cables through the air intake pipe and then felt safe charging them indoors.
Would any of these strategies work in the event of a fire going critical? Well, they will probably contain the fire somewhat better than charging them in a cedar chest where you also happen to store your collection of antique matchbooks and historically relative newspapers.
Again, I've never had a fire. I've never heard from any of my audience members that they have had a fire, and whenever I try to follow up on someone who comes in with photos and a story of a fire, I can usually prove the photo was not genuine. The photo was not taken by the person in the place and time when the person claimed the photo was taken. I also have struggled being able to get fire reports from these people even when I directly ask to see the findings from the Fire Department or Insurance Company that most certainly would have been involved in fires such as these. Due to a significant shortage of evidence that should be easily available for these people to provide to prove their credibility, I'm going to go out on a limb and say that at least most of these claims are made by people who are completely full of it.
Now if you were riding a different brand, other than Flite or Lift, my advice would be more likely to be something akin to, "get a giant vat of monoammonium phosphate and store them in there."
Thankyou Verdant Ride. Love the store in wood stove tip. Appreciate knowing what charger are you using. Tnx agn, Mike
@@mikestephens4589 www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0BC1B7H4D/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o02_s03?ie=UTF8&th=1
These allow you to program the 4 plugs independently so you can maintain multiple batteries all off of a single power outlet. Rated to 2100 joules of surge protection. According to the VerdantRideGPT, it can handle it as long as I don't try to charge more than 1 battery at a time in the schedule.