Yikes! Well that bandsaw is history. | LOCKDOWN Day 70
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- Опубліковано 11 жов 2024
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Looked at it frame by frame. Your workpiece, given how loosely you held it, and the overhang on the front, tipped into the blade. Once it does that, it really yanks on it, and that plastic insert wasn't strong enough for that, so it broke. Had that been out of metal, the workpiece still would have jumped out of your hands. That saw is pretty much identical to my first bandsaw. They take a bit of work to set up, a bit of grinding and filing here and there. I had made a metal plate for mine. If you junk it, at least keep or sell the motor. Or post it for sale as "broken" or "parts" so the faint of heart won't want to buy it.
Or reuse the motor and buy the plans from woodgears to finally build a good bandsaw ;) New lockdown project!
I don't mean to criticize but I think you should have started with something like "From one legend to another..."
Matthias, always on the scavenge for motors...
@@SoldatInconus absolutely!
I just commented saying maybe he should send it to you and asked if he’s considered building yours. Since you’ve worked on the design and build aspect, maybe you could see what it would take to make something like that usable. Maybe he could scale down and make certain parts from your plans but keep things from this one to make a hybrid?
That happened because where the blade was cutting was above the level of the table and the insert. The blade grabbed the piece and slammed it down. That's why you never want to cut round things on a bandsaw without adequate support underneath the piece being cut.
Thank you for the insight.
Art, the forward-most face of the box is not down on the the surface of the table but elevated somewhat... The blade grabbed it and slammed it down. An extreme example of this would be like trying to push an inverted triangle through. Without the widest part as it's base, that blade is going to rotate it until it is.
Borninthe WrongCentury j
This makes sense
I always wonder, whenever I see someone explaining what the actual cause or issue was and it's done in a polite manner, it never seems to get a like from the creator. I've seen this on other channels a lot as well, loads of post gently trying to state the issue. No likes, but somewhere there's one comment stating "woowwww great video!" and that gets one. :) It's not that I care about likes and all, but it does seem like some creators see all criticism as bad. Which is weird, as that's how you learn.
Good that you're ok. I was cutting a round piece on my bandsaw when I first got it...band saw grabbed the piece, blade got bent and pulled off the wheels. Scared the crap out of me. I have a Grizzly 14" (30th Anniversary one) and it works well. In 5 years I've replaced a bearing and bought better quality (Timberwolf) blades for it. I've also been thinking about upgrading the tires on the wheels to get rid of some of the vibration. As for yours...I'd keep the motor and bearings then toss the rest into the recycle bin. You never know when you might need an electric motor for something.
I have this exact saw and have never had an issue with it. Yes, it is finicky to adjust and some parts are best swapped out (belts, inserts). The lack of adjustment knobs is annoying but I just keep a 10 mm (i think?) wrench stuck to the base of the saw with a magnet. The incident you experienced was due to technique not because of the tool- glad you reacted and pulled your hands out of the way quickly enough, but as others have pointed out; always have as much of the piece on the table when cutting as possible. The bolt shearing off is just unfortunate and is a direct result of the budget of the saw.
Steve ... Just wanted to say that I sincerely appreciate your "Lockdown Series". You and a small number of other great UA-camrs (Woodworking DIY & PC Tech DIY) have really played an important part of my stress management...and buckets of inspiration along more than a few much needed humor. Great job! ... My wife and I are solidly on Team Bubbles !
Hey Steve, I'm a relatively new subscriber and getting into wood working. Man, I'm so happy that you are okay and have all of your fingers. Thank you for all of your videos and for making wood working easier for newbies. So many guys are just snobs, "if you dont have a 120 dollar red square then you're not a woodworker". Thank you again for your videos. Cheers
Always have the long side at the bottom. The blade naturally tries to pull the overhang down, hence the incident.
I do agree the plastic baseplate looks very flimsy. If you get one CNC'd out of thicker plastic or aluminium, it'll help a lot.
But I can understand why it's shaken your faith in the machine.
My Grizzly 14" saw is now about 30 years old, has given me no issues.... I now use the cool blocks for the guide. The broken bolt can be removed fairly easily and replaced with a new one. If the guide holder still wants to rotate, consider filing a small flat spot on the round vertical member. Mine is hexagonal to prevent that but I've seem some expensive saws with round ones. I've replaced/upgraded the tires once too.
That blade disk should be steel or aluminum - I think mine is aluminum. But that should be cheap to purchase or fab with a hacksaw, file and belt sander.
I think the machine is very much worth fixing!
BTW, I've change my blade many times over the years... never pulled the table off. Once you removed that little plug from the side, you can snake the blade through that slot.
Love the videos over the years Steve - thank you!!
It’s from Harbor Freight, it’s not worth fixing. Even if he replaced and upgraded any parts affected something else will break the next time any real stress is put on the saw. There’s a reason their tools have such a bad reputation. Best bet would be to buy a used bandsaw (there are PLENTY around) from a reputable maker and still get decades of life out of it. I say that as someone who was gifted a saw from Harbor Freight. The cast parts cracked under even moderate use, and soon after I got it the alignment mechanism broke. It’s just garbage…
Glad you are ok. That scared the crap out of me and I'm just sitting on my couch nowhere near the saw.
Hahah! Me too! I was sitting on the couch and shrieked out loud when it happened!
Steve! I am right there with you buddy. I love working WITH my tools, not ON my tools
Both are equally important though...
You should try a cnc, you would destroy a 20k+ machine in 2 hours if you look at it that way
Watching your daily videos is seriously like having a buddy who's living next door and I check on him to have a small chat or something. I love watching your daily videos!
Totally lucked out and got a 1950s delta bandsaw and it changed my life. Keep your eyes peeled for a used saw.
I absolutely love you Steve. This was (I hate to say) operator error. I've done the same thing myself. That uniquely shaped piece, had no choice but to do what it did, unsupported. Because of physics. And even if you had a metal throat plate, it would likely be bent now. I love your channel. You do way more woodworking than me.
How would you have done it differently and supported it? I ask because I want to make this box, but now I'm scared
Glad you're safe and still have all your fingers. 🤗
I got a 10" skill bandsaw for $150 and it works fine for what I use it for. I rough sawed 4 adirondack chairs with it finishing them with templates on the router table. I tried using a bayonette saw initially with horrible results. So the bandsaw was the correct tool. I'm happy!😁📐📏✏😊⚓🇺🇸
If you're looking for ideas, I would love to see a video on how to calibrate your miter saw. I know there's some out there, but I dig Steve's method of teaching.
Glad you're ok Steve. Thanks for 2 months of near-daily videos about woodworking and the life of Steve. My quarantine is better with your videos in it.
I use a bandsaw quite a bit and have had the exact same thing happen to me in the early days. The plastic baseplate was changed and that helped. What really made the difference though is that I now use jigs for holding round objects more securely, and/or I use a sacrificial piece of thin board or even ply. I place the piece to be cut on the sacrificial board a little ways back so I cut through the board first and by the time the piece is being cut, the board is completely over where the baseplate is. No problems at all.
You should have had the longer side face down on the table, glad you are safe though
Steve, look at how the box was oriented, the point of the cut was unsupported. The blade pulled the front edge of the box was pulled down by the blade travel.(quickly). Had you turned the box upside down, or supported the box with the off cut it would not have exploded the box.
The saw is fine. I get that you’re uncomfortable with it though, and that you’re getting rid of it.
I totally support Ned. No matter whatever whatever Bandsaw you will use, the blade pulling down on the piece will roll it out Of your hands. Same thing happened to me while cutting a round piece. I learned my lesson.
Have to agree. If it was my saw I'd make a new insert out of aluminum to replace that plastic one though.
Ned B to be fair though it shouldn’t have cheap plastic that snaps so easily.
Ned B I completely agree with Ned and Sylvain. I had the same thing happen to me - operator error by a novice. I learned (hopefully) an important lesson. And bandsaws can be as dangerous as any other powered saw in my shop. One momentary lapse of attention and it will cut you. I have the scar on my finger to prove it.
Sylvain Brunet Et ça peut t’écraser les jointures solide!
The curve on the bottom of the box won't have helped your situation. As the blade cuts down its going to try and pull the box down because of the curve it's forced the box to roll over into the blade.
David piccuto talks about it on his youtube channel.
As for budget models here in the UK we have a company called Screwfix. The saws aren't very big in size throat/depth but you could get one for a couple hundred... Not sure if they do delivery for you but might highlight some makes/models you could search for locally...?
Yeah, the prices of tools always surprise me in the US. Most of my tools are from Aldi and LIDL sure, they're not the best quality but they all come with 3 year warranties so even if they die, I at least get my money back. My ROS just died after about 15 months and I had a replacement sent over no questions asked (literally, I said it died, they asked for my address and the code on the receipt, and I had the replacement in a week)
My tablesaw was £80, drill press £50, Track Saw £70, Cordless tools (drills, impact driver, SDS, circular saw, Jigsaw etc.) all cost
As soon as I saw the incident, I thought the exact same thing. There was no support because of the curve to the box as the blade is running in the downward position. C'mon Steve. I've watched your videos for the passed coupled of years and I wouldn't expect for someone like you to degrade a tool or its brand because of a mistake "the handler" made. We've seen you use that bandsaw time and time again with no problems. I'm a big time Harbor Freight shopper and I understand that they don't carry the most state of the art brands. But you can't blame Central Machinery for this close call. This was a low blow in my eyes.
Gabriel Garcia it's a little of both, IMO. If that insert were metal it wouldn't have failed so badly, but the piece might have still flipped up.
This. Exactly my thoughts when I saw the incident too. The piece rolled into the blade which is the "kick back" version of the band saw, same principle. Actually, when you see the clip again you may be thankful that it happened like that as other options would be the piece rolling and breaking back at you or just letting your fingers into the blade.
Now with that out of the way, yes, that flimsy part not tightening properly which is just what aligns the blade down is scary.
Hopefully you'll find a nice new one to buy. I see a Ryobi 9" for $179 here... (sorry, I couldn't resist the joke. 😊 )
Glad You Are Safe ! And I Do Hope You Get A Decent Bandsaw In The Future !
I can definitely agree that the piece rolled forward slightly causing the sudden grip of the piece and 'suplexed' it into your plastic insert. Had this happen a couple times, and when I consciously focused on not letting the piece roll at all, it didn't happen.
I bought a used Delta 14 inch for $125. After replacing a couple bearings it’s a fantastic saw.
I have exactly the same saw and have fitted a riser block for resawing. When set up correctly it works really well. Sure its not quality but it is usable for every job I've thrown at it from boxes to joints and resawing logs. I use 1/8 to 3/4 inch blades. Give it another go Steve.
Don’t cut a round object that way. It rolled.
Agreed. It rolled.
Rookie mistake not what you should expect from a veteran. And a poor workman blaming his tools for his mistake.
Turn the workpiece upside down
shit, you're right, rolled forward right into the blade and forced through that plate. nice catch.
Yup. should have flipped the piece over and that wouldnt have happened.
Steve - first - very glad you are ok. As I see many other comments about what happened - I'll just stick to a suggestion for a possible replacement. As you know you inspired me to up my woodworking game. I just completed a wine rack yesterday. I bought some cheap power tools to make the activity more enjoyable/less frustrating when doing projects. I considered a bandsaw... but I don't really need re-saw capability... I just need to be able to cut/shape, etc. I just bought the WEN 3921 16-inch Two-Direction Variable Speed Scroll Saw. It cost me $111.69 I have been using the heck out of it - and it works just fine. I can cut a 2x4 or anything smaller - make tight corners/curves, etc. If you need re-saw... it won't work for wide stock. Table to top is not that deep. I can mount this to a board and hang it from the wall when not in use, etc. It's very handy and is out of the way when I don't need it. It also cuts holes (I can detach the blade - put it through the hole and cut a larger circle... jigsaw kind of cut) but better/more accurate/more precise than a jigsaw. I really wanted a bandsaw... but once I got this... realized I really don't need one - at least for what I am doing right now. Hope this helps.
Glad you were not hurt!
I had done a lot of research a few years ago to get a bandsaw, and finally decided to get a laguna 14-12, as that way I had the height for taller items, it had the ceramic bearings, etc. If you get it though, you definitely need dust collection of some sort, even with a shopvac it does better than none. It is expensive, yes, but it has all the various upgrades already built in that a lot of other people add to cheaper bandsaws over time, so that saved all that work. Another option is craigslist, there are a lot of options on there as I am sure you have found.
Wow! That surprised me also! Thanks for showing this. Glad you are ok and no fingers were harmed in the making of this video.
The video and the comments are very instructive. Glad you showed this.
Glad to see you are doing ok after this scare. I’ve been shopping around yesterday a bit and found the Grizzly M0555LA35 as well as the Delta 28-400. Both are around $750-$800 right now. From Grizzly directly, the saw is $650, but there’s a $100 shipping cost. The Grizzly has an option for an extension to raise the clearance from 6 to 12 inches, which is decent. Not a super cheap tool, but I would hope that they operate as advertised.
Wow!!! Glad you didn't get hurt. In the slo-mo the fingers on your right hand came awfully close to the blade. Can't wait to see Bubbles in action, as is our cat Sammy (although he said not to wake him if he's napping).
I've had the porter cable 14in bandsaw that you can get at lowes for $600 now for going on 3 years and while it doesn't have a lot of the fancier amenities like roller bearing edge guides, blade tension release lever, or a really decent dust collection port...It does come with a two-speed motor by swapping the belt to the other pulley and the option of converting over to 240 volts if need be and has been really a quite decent saw for the price. I didn't have very high hopes but continue to be surprised by its durability and accuracy. I've done a couple of small upgrades like adding the cool guide blocks and I put new rubber on the wheels and installed a new carter tensioning spring which were all purchased from woodcraft for around $30 to $40 total for everything and I'm not even really sure that it did a whole lot to improve things but it made me feel better I guess. I would eventually like to upgrade the guides to the carter roller bearing ones but have not been able to really justify spending that much money on a quality accessory such as that only to then put it on a not so high quality (well... what most people wouldn't consider high quality) saw but so far its been fine without having to do much of anything and even was able to balance a nickel on its edge straight out of the box. (and yes the machine was running when it did it. HAHA!) So with all that said... If you're serious about wanting to purchase another saw without breaking the bank, even though $600 can be and is a lot of money for some, I think it has been well worth it and really is a pretty quality saw.
Wow! So glad you did not get hurt and that you still have all your fingers.
As a woodturner, a bandsaw is a vital time saver for me. I've got the Grizzly 555SX (the one with cast steel wheels, not the aluminum ones) I've been VERY happy with it - the only real problem i've ever had was a bearing on the blade guides failing .....
Thanks for the Bubbles update. My five year old asked about him/her yesterday. She will be pleased to hear about the level five jump and a possible video tomorrow or sooner than later. Cheers from outside Ottawa, Canada!
Glad you didn't loose a finger. Thank you for sharing with us so we can all learn from this
Steve, the ubiquitous Delta/Rockwell 14" band saw ( that Harbor Freight/Central Machinery saw is based on it) are everywhere
on craigslist, estate sales, yard sales, etc. I got mine at a used machinery dealer for around 300 several years back. There are
plenty of parts for them, plenty of aftermarket goods for them, etc. Set some money aside and snatch up a good one when
it pops up. They ARE out there.
Things like that gets your attention I bought a very good old 12 inch craftsman for $120 been using it for about 6 years and it is a lot easier to set up thank for your video was looking forward to seeing you make that
I am always on the alert in front of all the engines and equipment running .. be careful dear .. and delighted that this accident didn't cause any damage
God bless you
I've gotten some great tools on Craigslist, Facebook Marketplace, and local woodworking club auctions. Often a long-time woodworker is downsizing or selling his shop and you can find good items then, even garage sales. Doesn't need to be new.
It’s good to see I’m not the only one who buys tools on FB Marketplace and Craigslist.
I've managed to get all my shop tools from Craig's list! Delta 10" Table saw $150, shop drill press $80, Craftsman 12" band saw with the stand $100. None are perfect but all get the job done and only needed minor adjusting and cleanup.
Steve, I have the same saw... at least I think it's the same. I bought mine new back in 2003. According to Alex Snodgrass, it is a Delta clone (from some years back, of course). I spent $100 on a set of Carter bandsaw guides and added a 6" riser block. I also added a zero tolerance insert to the table replacing the flimsy one that came with it. I have ~$350 invested and wouldn't take $850 for it today. As has already been said by the others, with the long side up, you added additional torque that you were not prepared for. Just my half cent.
Billy
I second the 'replace the guide bearings' - Carter guides are relatively easy and quick to install and adjust. If you keep the saw, when you go to the machine shop to get the broken bolt replaced, get them to mill a slot in the round bar that matches with the bolt nose - Delta's have that, either HF cheaped out by not doing that or you one was a 'mistake' and go an un-milled rod from the factory. The table inserts are an expendable item on bandsaws, the size is pretty universal so they are made and sold by good dealers like Highland, or you can make your own from aluminum or acrylic.
Glad you came out of that incident without a scratch. Always frustrating when dealing with equipment failures and malfunctions.
I've got the same saw, and the same problems. The zero-clearance plate over the table is the only thing I've found to help , especially with the guides doing their own thing. Also, I don't cut much thicker than 1 inch stuff, and I go slower than you would on a regular saw. It's okay for hobby work, but little else.
Good to see you unharmed was bummed that your not doing a bandsaw box. Was looking forward to it. Stay safe
Hi Steve... Yup! Real scary! I wasn't even there and I thought I needed to check my pants! March, 2019, via Amazon (my "best friend") I purchased the
Grizzly G0555X - 14" 1-1/2 HP Extreme. One awesome bandsaw. I bought the extension separately. I love being able to resaw some of the bigger, less expensive lumber from big box into whatever I need. Expensive is relative. By my count, maintaining my current project path I will have saved enough in lumber cost to pay for this great saw!
It scared the crap out of you? That sounds like a reasonable response to me.
I am glad you are well and have all your fingers left. Be safe. 💖
Stay safe! On the slowed down part you can see it all going wrong and THEN you hands moved out of the way. I know it feels that you can react quickly but this is inevitable. Glad to see you are OK and I needed to see bubbles jump the pole to calm down!
I noticed that I have the exact same bandsaw as you. I bought mine used and it needed repair. It’s a Mark01 and needed some parts. I found out that I can get parts for it from Grizzly. Also, all of my adjustment screws were messed up little (metric) Allen screws. After seeing your bolts, I swapped them out. They are more bulky but easier to adjust. The insert on mine had been swapped out for an aluminum one, so it won’t break like yours did.
It’s not the best bandsaw but it’s what I can afford. BTW, love your channel and the way you bring woodworking to us “mere mortals”. 😊
Glad your fingers are ok. Thanx for the laugh Steve, love your channel.
Damn, that scared the crap out of me too and I am 3,000 mile away. Very glad that you did not get injured. It’s amazing how fast things like that can happen. Take care, Steve.
Just glad you are all right!. I have a Grizzly G0555LX
14" 1 HP Deluxe band saw that I'm really happy with and it runs about $ 625.00 plus shipping. They have a Grizzly G0803Z - 9" Benchtop Bandsaw with Laser Guide for $275 it has a 1/3 HP motor. just in case you want to reconsider.
I have the same bandsaw and my insert broke the same way a couple of weeks ago. I look forward to seeing your solution to the problem.
You can obviously use a jigsaw mounted inverted under a table for many bandsaw type cuts, especially if you put a blade guide above the workpiece. I would be interested to see your version if you think it would be a useful way to fill the gap until your next bandsaw comes along? Thanks for all the learning I have gained from your content.
I recently purchased a Jet 14" bandsaw and like you, I didnt know if I needed one that big, it has 13" of resaw capacity and I had a Ryobi 9inch bandsaw. But with the jet, I can now resaw boards and since I do alot of scroll saw work its saved me so much money on buying thin stock. You may find more uses than you realize
Poor technique played more of a role than I think you realize I'm afraid. That piece should have been the other way around to avoid the blade catching on an unsupported overhang, which is what happened. I have this same saw and have never had an issue.
I completely agree with you. That saw might not be the highest quality saw you can get out there but -- with all the respect that I have for him, I think it was just his unsafe technique that got him in that situation. The blade is going down, the teeth is grabbing the piece and pushing it down with such a force and speed and you have nothing to support it underneath. What else did you expect to happen? But thankfully he didn't lose a finger or anything like that -- or at least all of his fingers still look real to me, but it might just the edit and good CG skills.
Exactly.
Keep an eye out for used band saws. I got a Delta 14" that was basically brand new for $100 because the "motor was bad". I replaced the starter capacitor for $7 and it started right up. People are quick to get rid of good tools they think are broken!
Ouch... That's scary! 😬
Stay safe there, Steve! And far from the freaking blade! 🖖😊
I did not use my cheap craftsman bandsaw much either because of the quality. But after I bought a good one, I use it a lot more. It is very handy and gives you options.
This vid, along with comments is very educational. Since I make a living as a massage therapist, and my other hobby is playing violin, think I'll wait a while before taking up making bandsaw boxes.
Glad you're ok, man! Stay safe. Those machine have no friends. Love your video for years! Cheers,
I recommend the Porter Cable 14" bandsaw that Lowes sells. It's the standard imported 14" so you can get aftermarket accessories for it. I've had one for 3-4 years and am happy with it. You can get 0% for 6 months on their cc too.
I just got a Rikon 10-3061 and I love it so far it’s only 10 inches but it’s super powerful and super precise
Lol all I thought about in my head after he said “so after that event happened” at 1:50 was “I cleaned myself up from having crapped my pants...
OK: the great point of this vid was highlighting plastic inserts @ the work point. I never thought about that till now. Thanks for the tip! Glad you're OK; that could have gone sooo bad, huh?
I bought a used Delta 14" bandsaw in 1993. It is still working fine, I used it this morning just before I came in to watch you almost cut your fingers. Mine looks almost like yours. I really took the time to learn about it. I bought a book by Mark Duginske, and learned how to set it up and, no, you don't have to take the table off to change the blade. Be sure to get at least a 14 inch. I also bought the extension kit, which raises the clearance about six inches-making it taller so I have to buy a 105" blade. You will be sorry if you buy a small one. 14 inch Jet, Delta, or other reputable brand.
I hope you reconsider and make this bandsaw your project. Technique played a role in the failure today. You can make everything on the saw better. You can move the switch. Change the doors so they are easy to open. Make a new plate. I love my Grizzly bandsaw. If I hadn't gotten it so cheap, I would have bought a small benchtop bandsaw by now.
Got a Ryobi and I love it....came up ready except for table right out of the box
Glad you are ok! Scary! I am very happy with my Porter Cable bandsaw.
Ooooh poor bandsaw! Glad you are safe!
I feel your pain, I have an old craftsmen and have never been able to get it right. Like you I don't use it much , however sometimes it comes in very handy. the zero clearance idea does work fairly well.I want a better saw though, I'd like to be able to do some re-saw work . My saw only has like 5 inches of clearance. best of luck to you. Carl
Thx for taking time to share this!
A 14" porter cable 1 1/2hp bandsaw at lowes. Great bandsaw for under $500. I put a carter stabilizer on it that does away with the upper and lower blade guides. The stabilizer lets you use an 1/8" blade with no issues. Final pointed out by others there was no support under what you were cutting.
Rikon 10” band saw. The wheels are 4” smaller in diameter so a few inches less cutting capacity to the left but a better saw for the money over all.
The leading edge was unsupported so the downward force of the blade pulled the work piece down into the insert. I’ve learned about that the hard way myself! Once it did the first time I reformed my ways. A band saw is pretty safe in comparison to the table saw, but that downward force is relentless and unforgiving.
That band saw doesn’t seem great, but should still be sufficient for how you use it and how (apparently) infrequently you use it. An extraction bit set might get that broken bolt out for you, then you can maybe upgrade that bolt. If not then another band saw of similar size and price to that imho one would be the Rikon mentioned above.
I hear you on the tool-computer comparison. I just want them to work too, but I've had to force myself to get into them more. However, a band saw can be just as essential as the table saw, router, and power drill. Maybe take your audience down a journey as you get into learning more about these power tools in a modern workshop and how to maintain them.
Wow, glad you weren't hurt! That was scary indeed. Peace and Good Fortune and Good Health to you and your family.
Wow! Scared me...The only machine I ever went to the ER for was the band saw. Small blade just like you were using, finished the cut, look up at some distraction and then reached for the material. Saw is so quiet I only noticed from the slight buzz in my knuckle that I was cutting my finger. Few stitches and it was all good. I agree with your inexpensive tool thinking on things that I only use infrequently and are inexpensive enough and available enough to replace easily. I have a Laguna 18 and can't see that problem ever happening.
How about you build one like Mathias Wandell did it would be a great project video
I second that.
Was gonna post this exact thing.
Thanks and let's keep up the likes so he can see it and we get a project video on the saw
This! that would be awesome
Steve says he doesn't care about the tool; comments say to build a tool. Ohhkay....
Another consideration: You should have been doing that cut the other way up, so that the band saw box couldn't rock like that. The alternative would be to save the off from making that box and use it to support the cut you were trying to do. I usually attach the off cut with to strips of painters tape and a bit of CA glue. But you should never try to cut a round object on a band saw with out a jig of some kind. Asking for trouble. Also, you are right that it's a crappy band saw, but you could make that disc out of aluminum pretty easily. The other problems could probably also be tweaked up to make it a useful machine. That said, yeah. Get rid of it if tools aren't your thing.
I'm on my third band saw now. No, my fourth. My firsts was a beautiful 1950's model that was given to me by a neighbor and I could never get to work right. It needed a complete restoration, and even then the technology has changed so much it wouldn't be worth it. My second was a $200 Mastercrap saw from Canadian tire. It looked great and probably would be fine for very light hobby work, like cutting balsa wood. I sold it to a lady who thought she would do musical instrument work with it, and it would probably be good for that. My third was another antique I bought at a garage sale. Maybe a good machine in it's day, but that day had passed. Finally I bit the bullet and spent $1200 for a decent machine. And do I ever love it. I use it all the time, almost as much as I use my table saw.
I love your videos, Steve. But don't give up on band saws. Save your pennies and get a good one. They are a truly wonderful machine. And very forgiving, compared to the table saw that ate my thumb with a dado blade. (Okay, my thumb recovered, but it will never be the same.) I value and respect my table saw. But I love my band saw. Someday my wife will catch me hugging it.
I epoxied a couple of cut nails to the underside of my bandsaw throat plate. Stiffened it up quite a bit.
I would look for a used one. I bought an old 14" craftsman for 200. An older gentleman bought it new and it was in great shape. Gave me extra blades and new tires for it as well.
I bought a bandsaw from Lowe’s. Was roughly $150. It’s a tabletop portal cable. Works pretty good.
Last month I parked my trusty Craftsman benchtop bandsaw and purchased the "real deal" JET 14" floor model. I am ecstatic with my decision. In fact today I was using the JET. It is true "good tools are a pleasure to work with". No Harbor Freight tools in my shop, thank you.
If you don't mind used machinery, a Delta/Rockwell 28-200 bandsaw can often be found for about $250 (at least around here they can) and they are solid machines that can easily last you a lifetime.
It occures to me though that while all a bandsaw ever does is going down in-place, a table saw also only ever rotates in-place... yet... well...
Shop around for a second hand Startrite bandsaw. Every place I've worked in the last 35 years has had one, they seem to be the gold standard in the UK. The really nice ones have blade welding machine on them so you can buy blade stock on a roll and make your own blades.
Glad that you're safe, Steve. Very scary indeed. Put aside bandsaw projects for now. Take a break if you need it.
Steve,
As a recent alumnus of “The Weekend Worker”, I have always tried to take your advice and seek out used tools. I have found some great ones including an old Craftsman band saw. Sadly, I was never able to tune the Craftsman well enough to keep the blades from falling off. While I’m certain it was operator error, I gave up and purchased a new Porter Cable from Lowes. The cost was about $450.00.
It is very easy to adjust and I’ve never had a problem with it.
I’m very happy you were not hurt during this incident.
That's kind of my philosophy also--something of good quality will be less frustrating, easier to adjust, and ultimately safer for a beginning woodworker. I really like the DeWalt table, jig, & miter saw I have. Could have gone a bit cheaper, but don't see why it would be worth it. I just want stuff that works well so I can concentrate on doing my projects--not fretting about the tools themselves.
Thank you Steve on the update about Bubble's hurdle training, my 8 year old appreciated! She can't wait for your next video.
Glad you are okay. The inserts to my Kobalt router table broke too. My brother-in-law is 3D printing new ones. The insert to my Craftsman table saw is pretty weak and I am concerned that what happened to you will happen to me with bad results. I know, I bought cheap tools and “paying the price” in another way. I appreciate your videos.
I’ve had the rikon 10-306 for several months. As a basic hobby saw I think it’s fantastic. Does everything a band saw needs to do and won’t break the bank.
I received my sticker in the mail today. Thanks, Steve.
I have a porter cable 14” and they sell for around $400 and it works well. I think that the success you have with a bandsaw really comes from having it well tuned. Everyone says it, but the Snodgrass method is the way to go. And agreed with the other commenters here, the rounded box rolled forward and caused this issue :( glad you’re safe!
One thing Dirista used to show in his bandsaw techniques was a zero clearance plywood support slipped into the blade for added support and safer operation.
Steve, you can probably find a used Shopsmith bandsaw locally for a couple hundred or less. Instead of powering it with the big Shopsmith, re-use the motor, pulleys, and stand from that Harbor Freight bandsaw. The Shopsmith bandsaw is a great saw and you can get one used at a great price.
Start with an aluminium insert! How's the blood pressure after? Add some flat spots on surfaces where you want to be able to lock down adjustments.
I bought a 14" Craftsman bandsaw from Sears made by Rikon. It doesn't come with a fence but for $400 new, it was a good deal for a steel frame bandsaw. The fence is available on Amazon. Just look for Rikon 13-900 14" bandsaw fence. This may help someone hopefully.
Sorry to hear about your saw problems I have the same one for about ten years now and never had a problem with it,well if you do buy another good luck with it.
Well, Steve, ditto here with my Grizzly. (I bought it 20 years ago - and they are almost identical). But since I have ‘room’ in my shop, I keep it in a corner on a mobile base, and only use it for larger pieces.
I'm a big fan of my mini bandsaw, a Rikon 10-3061. Got mine for ~$450. Has handled just about everything I've thrown at it. It is small, but I rarely want for more.