Great video. I am moving a heat does it matter which way the water flows through the heater? Right now it enter from left and leave to the right. It would be easier to enter from right and leave from left when heater is moved.
No it doesn't. This assumes fin spacing is the same along the ldngth. With the elements I make I can change the fin pitch so on large runs I can have wider spaced fins and reduce them down towards the end of the run to spread the heat evenly. I can also make twin tube so flow and return are same end.
in the long run, does this generally come out cheaper than installing a typical gas furnace that may have frequent repairs over the years...? just looking for a general idea of whether its more or less expensive. personally ive always been a fan of baseboard heat. i just like it better.
My 30 year old house has in floor radiant heat, however it was built using poly b pipe. Is this the only way I can heat my basement now if I abandon the in floor heat and stay with a boiler? Upstairs is forced air they fan coil unit.
I have 4 zones & will be getting a wall hung combi Bosch Greenstar ZWB42 -3 or Burnham K2. Which is better & is an 'Air Eliminator' installed on Unit or individual zones? I want to make sure Plumber does the right thing as previous Plumber took $ & abandoned job. Love the Video
I'm replacing my hydronic baseboard throughout the house. Ranch. The house has always heated well but I'm wondering if I should install high output & if it would save on heating costs or if that would be overkill. High output vs standard baseboard???
On a series loop single zone someone installed air scoop 1/8 air vent and expansion tank and feeder on return and pump on supply what’s your thought on that piping
Great video, easy to understand and follow! I would appreciate if you can answer a few questions: 1. What program do you recommend to determine the amount of BTU needed per room? I did found several free online BTU calculators but neither one is asking for a insulation R values or window U factors/sizes, so it seems like these are not precise. 2. I am considering installing diverter tees on one of my loops (just for the bedrooms so everyone can setup temperature as preferred) and the other two loops would be on regular with flow controls. Is this possible (each loop would have pump designated)? 3. Yanex radiators, hydronic panel radiator or copper baseboard radiators? What is your favorite - considering installation process and overall functionality?
Can you not just set the freeze protection on the thermostat? Usually about 5 degrees C in the UK. Even if the heating is switched off, it won't let the room temp drop below that set point.
@@shaneord7527 I live in a place that gets -10f and lower with the wind chill in the winters. I have an old mobile home that is about 2ft off the ground with skirting around it. I am going to use DC heating elements in old water heater powered by solar to heat the inside and underneath my home with baseboards. So I need to use something that doesn't freeze and doesn't eat the pipes. It's also going to be linked to my fireplace to heat at night or when there is no sun.
I need to replace a six foot section of baseboard heater which will require cutting the copper pipes. Can I reconnect the cooper pipes using sharkbite fittings or does it have to be soldered?
I've had customers use various methods of connection with no issues (solder, speed/push fit and the crimp fittings used on large sites). However, my final copper tube sizes are 15 or 22mm after expanding into the fins. Do make sure your existing and replacement are the same and also the same as the fitting design requirements.
What i like to see here is a drawing for a 3 pipe system , where 1 pipe distributes hot water through out to each heater inlet with a "T" , and a 3rd pipe returning cooler water from exiting each heater , so heaters one end gets hot water in, and the other end puts the exiting cooler water in the 3rd pipe coming from the last baseboard returning to the boiler . Therefor each heater gets fresh hot water and the second heater in line don't get look water and the next on line gets much cooler water
I did a drawing like this for a project using Sill Line casing, which I now hold the trade mark for. Doubt you'd find an off the shelf US baseboard tall enough to accommodate the element of the and a flow and return pipe. The Perimeter Heating Company Ltd in the UK can manufacture bespoke systems and can be ordered through G&C Salles LLC, but they are far more robust and efficient than the off the shelf stuff so expect to pay a premium.
I have lived with radiators, baseboard, and forced air (least fav). We are going to build on some land and looking into geothermal. My understanding is a heat exchanger can reverse the heating and pull warm air temps back to the ground for cooling and then circulate the geo cooled water acting as A/C. How and can geothermal work with baseboard or radiator systems?
I have a small 2 bedroom bilevel house. 3 zones, 1 for downstairs, 1 livingroom & kitchen. 1 for bed rooms. Hot water baseboard. The problem is there are no aluminum fins on the pipes in the bedrooms, just pipes. Is there any type of product that can be put on the pipes. Or do they have to be cut & completely redone?
www.amazon.ca/Fin-Clamp-CLR-2-Baseboard-Additional/dp/B00GHUSRSY/ref=asc_df_B00GHUSRSY/?tag=googleshopc0c-20&linkCode=df0&hvadid=292928524062&hvpos=&hvnetw=g&hvrand=7404042244236678235&hvpone=&hvptwo=&hvqmt=&hvdev=c&hvdvcmdl=&hvlocint=&hvlocphy=9000081&hvtargid=pla-311203036008&psc=1 Seems quite expensive though, $100+ for 2'. Depending on the length of your heater, it might be cheaper to have someone replace the whole thing.
I just had that happen to me. Now my property managers are coming by here the end of this month, and I am going to ask them where the HELL are the fins??? No wonder I am cold all the time. I was thinking my thermostat was bad. Nope. Missing parts.
You can get hinged fin segments that clamp around existing pipes, not sure on efficiency but they do exists. Or replace with a Sill-Line type Finned Tube.
I am moving into a house with baseboard heating. I have been told it’s cheaper to run baseboard heating on a boiler system than having a furnace heat a home. Is this true at all? Or does it depend?
@@PEXUniverse I have 3 zones. One zone has new baseboards but my 1 and 2 zones are older and have more pipe than heating element "radiator". Also my zone settings are not working independently for some odd reason.
@@MaiteBonilla Interesting! There can be a variety of issues. A few follow up questions: Do you know if the pipes run anywhere where they could freeze, is there an air separation device, have you been able to bleed the convectors and/ or are the circulators properly running?
I looked thru the comments and could not find if this question had been asked or answered. We're doing a remodel in one section of the house which includes moving a few baseboards. There is a tricky little corner in one of the rooms and a plumber that came to give us an estimate suggested that he could use PEX at one small portion where pipe would be connecting underneath the floor. Is that right to do that instead of just using copper?
Is it ok to adjust the flow to each zone using the lever on the pipe for that zone?I can see i have 3 pipes for 3 zones,each pipe has a lever and a faucet.All 3 look as if the lever is fully open.I wasn't sure if that can be adjusted or if that's to shut them off or turn on completely.So far I've closed the flaps on the baseboard heaters upstairs but its still very hot upstairs and cold downstairs.
Adjusting using the lever shouldn't be an issue. Especially if you have a mechanical valve gauge attached to each one. What you are doing sounds correct.
Can I attach a mechanical valve gauge to an existing individual baseboard heating strip ? There's no thermostat in my apartment, so there's no way to turn an individual rooms heating unit off or even regulate it... what should I do. ?
@@MESENJAH how do you pay for your heating? I'd be wanting a start and meter so I know I'm not paying for someone else's heating. Boxing over or Blocking airflow should help reduce the output.
By cast iron, do you mean the old large bore tubes? If so I'd say weight, and cost to heat. The large bore tubes have higher water volumes which require more energy to heat.
My house has a 56 year old Iron Fireman boiler and three zones of baseboard. All the baseboard in the basement has rusted severely due to damp or water filled concrete block walls, and or shallow water on the basement floor. I have not been successful stopping the water from getting into the blocks or onto the floor.. The heating elements are ok, but the frames and covers have all disintegrated. I am looking for replacement aluminum or plastic frames and covers, or complete baseboard with aluminum or plastic frames and covers. I want to drain the system, remove the old baseboard, put hydraulic cement on the walls (to reduce the infiltration of water), and then install the new frames, covers and or complete baseboard. Where can I obtain aluminum or plastic baseboard, and how do I attach it to the walls without using fasteners or nails, creating leakage points? Would baseboard work ok if I mounted it high up off the floor? That way I would not have to worry about drilling holes in the water filled blocks.
Hope you got this sorted. Is the heating in the basement to dry it out? I assume it's an un-usable space due to the water? I only ask as heating the space would just create humidity which would be bad for timber joists. I'd opt for sump pumps and ventilation if this was the case. But to answer the question. Finned Tube heating can be suspended at high level (though I'd expect a reduction in efficiency), also, there should be no reason why a manufacturer could not fabricate the steel parts in aluminium.
@@shaneord7527 Thank you. Although the basement is unfinished, the baseboard was installed to make it liveable in our cold winters (upstate NY). This year the spring thaw brought hundreds of gallons of muddy water into the basement. The house is sort of at the bottom of a fishbowl. All the surrounding land is higher. So all the rain and snow melt flow to the house. Because there are no street drains, or ditches, there's no good place to flow the water to, so no sump pumps.
Does your boiler not have separate water and heating? Would have thought you switch heating off at thermostat. Boiler will still heat water on demand for taps. Or are you talking old immersion tank system?
@@shaneord7527 yes I had separate water and heating but even with the heater thermostat turned all the way down of the temp dropped to 55 the heater works kick on.
If you have 800' it would be 480,000btu. But I'm sure we all know u meant 8 ft for 4800 but. Lol good video Had me thinking, I don't got close to enough feet of baseboards if I utilized every inch of every wall!! Lol
I am adding a 8x12 room to the front of my house. Do you have a video that shows how to shut down the system, open the loop and add the new room in series and bring the system back online?
@Supa Trending Daily hi, I have a question if you don't mind answering. If we upgrade from oil to gas heating system do the company remove the radiators in each rooms and place baseboard like these or is that a separate performing and cost? Thank you in advance.
Here are the pressure ratings, assuming you're using oxygen barrier tubing. [Operating Pressure] --> [Maximum working temperature] 80 psi --> 200˚F 100 psi --> 180˚F 160 psi --> 73˚F Here is a link to full technical specifications of Oxygen barrier tubing. www.pexuniverse.com/uploads/docs/pdf/tech-specs-oxygen-barrier-pex-tubing.pdf
Does anyone here know how to cut off the baseboard heater if it’s not electrical? I have 2 roommates who have mental issues because they love the thermostat to be on 80 all day long. I have the smallest room with only 1 window and it literally hell hot in my room. Like not an inch of air, even if I open the window. The heat even overpowers my AC, which they complain I use too much. But I have no choice because 80 degrees on the thermostat is way too high to me. They have no kind of understanding or reasoning, so I have been stuck in this situation for awhile. They both have bigger rooms so maybe they don’t feel the heat as much? My room is like a hole in the wall. It’s so hot that sometimes I have to sleep with no shirt on or pants! And I have the AC on and a fan on high blowing directly on me! Once in a blue they set it to 70 or slightly lower and I’m able to breathe. But I’m desperately seeking for an answer for what I can do. I wish I could just break this damn baseboard heater! I want it permanently off. Can I cover it with something to block the heat? Please somebody let me know if there are any options possible to stop this!! Thanks
Yes, block the air inlet and/or outlet. It will then turn into a very inefficient radiator. If you can remove panels and insulate them it will help. Also, removing fins off the tube will do the same but is somewhat irreversible. A decent pear of scissors should be enough for the thin foil type fins, tin snips for more robust ones (0.5mm). Hope this helps TPHC.
In my house it's one zone for 4 beds and 3 baths upstairs. And master bedroom has three baseball haters which I believe are at the end of the series and they don't even get warm while the other heaters gets hot. How can I fix this issue.
I closed all the baseboard heaters and just left the master bedroom heaters open.. by that I mean the little shutter that open and closes the baseboard heater. Now the other rooms are not burning and the master bedroom heaters also getting hot.
Just bough this house and came with thiis ki d of heaters and it seems that they are not warming. The house the way I want. Unless they are too small .
Simpley weigh up pros an cons of each, what works for some won't for others. There's also personal choice, some don't like pipes running round the house, some don't like forced air systems, some don't want to rip up floors to install underfloor heating.
You mentioned using a sharkbite to connect the pex to copper however I was told that sharkbite fittings are not designed for heating applications and that it violated code. The tech who installed my sister's boiler and used several sharkbite elbows and the building inspector made her have all of the sharkbite ones removed and replaced with sweat fittings
In general they can be used for radiant or hydronic heating applications that do not exceed 200F, but your inspector should know best for that area's codes!
Check all valve upstairs are open along with any that may be lurking in risers from ground floor. Bleed the system, could be that it's just one big air lock. Vacuum out fins, I've seen some systems that are only 4 or 5 years old but have never been cleaned so the fins are blocked. Make sure any dampers (air baffles) are open. Some systems have manual or electronic dampers to stop air flow. These systems are convective, no air flow, no heat. Two more points, are there fins on the pipe and is the pipe connected to the heating system? Hope this helps.
My 30 year old house has in floor radiant heat, however it was built using poly b pipe. Is this the only way I can heat my basement now if I abandon the in floor heat and stay with a boiler? Upstairs is forced air they fan coil unit.
My 30 year old house has in floor radiant heat, however it was built using poly b pipe. Is this the only way I can heat my basement now if I abandon the in floor heat and stay with a boiler? Upstairs is forced air thru fan coil unit.
Very very informative
Great video. I am moving a heat does it matter which way the water flows through the heater? Right now it enter from left and leave to the right. It would be easier to enter from right and leave from left when heater is moved.
No it doesn't. This assumes fin spacing is the same along the ldngth. With the elements I make I can change the fin pitch so on large runs I can have wider spaced fins and reduce them down towards the end of the run to spread the heat evenly. I can also make twin tube so flow and return are same end.
Thank you for the information. I need to know how to remove a single baseboard that has an internal loop.
So with the boiler system does that work on electric or natural gas?
in the long run, does this generally come out cheaper than installing a typical gas furnace that may have frequent repairs over the years...? just looking for a general idea of whether its more or less expensive. personally ive always been a fan of baseboard heat. i just like it better.
My 30 year old house has in floor radiant heat, however it was built using poly b pipe. Is this the only way I can heat my basement now if I abandon the in floor heat and stay with a boiler? Upstairs is forced air they fan coil unit.
Can you use shark bite fittings on this system? I googled it up and they say it’s not recommended?
sure
Can you remove the baseboard radiator and replace with a radiator like the cast iron?
Sounds great except for the shark bite part
I have 4 zones & will be getting a wall hung combi Bosch Greenstar ZWB42 -3 or Burnham K2. Which is better & is an 'Air Eliminator' installed on Unit or individual zones? I want to make sure Plumber does the right thing as previous Plumber took $ & abandoned job. Love the Video
I'm replacing my hydronic baseboard throughout the house. Ranch. The house has always heated well but I'm wondering if I should install high output & if it would save on heating costs or if that would be overkill. High output vs standard baseboard???
what about a control valve?
On a series loop single zone someone installed air scoop 1/8 air vent and expansion tank and feeder on return and pump on supply what’s your thought on that piping
Great video, easy to understand and follow!
I would appreciate if you can answer a few questions:
1. What program do you recommend to determine the amount of BTU needed per room? I did found several free online BTU calculators but neither one is asking for a insulation R values or window U factors/sizes, so it seems like these are not precise.
2. I am considering installing diverter tees on one of my loops (just for the bedrooms so everyone can setup temperature as preferred) and the other two loops would be on regular with flow controls. Is this possible (each loop would have pump designated)?
3. Yanex radiators, hydronic panel radiator or copper baseboard radiators? What is your favorite - considering installation process and overall functionality?
Can you run anti-freeze in those? If not, what can you use that doesn't freeze?
Can you not just set the freeze protection on the thermostat? Usually about 5 degrees C in the UK. Even if the heating is switched off, it won't let the room temp drop below that set point.
@@shaneord7527 I live in a place that gets -10f and lower with the wind chill in the winters. I have an old mobile home that is about 2ft off the ground with skirting around it. I am going to use DC heating elements in old water heater powered by solar to heat the inside and underneath my home with baseboards. So I need to use something that doesn't freeze and doesn't eat the pipes. It's also going to be linked to my fireplace to heat at night or when there is no sun.
@@pezjme ah right, it'll be standard copper pipe so probably best to search antifreeze that won't corrode the copper.
Is there a way to figure out how my home's heating plumbing is configured (simple series vs multi-zone?
Follow the pipe from the boiler to the first radiator. Does it branch off to feed the radiator or does it flow right in?
I need to replace a six foot section of baseboard heater which will require cutting the copper pipes. Can I reconnect the cooper pipes using sharkbite fittings or does it have to be soldered?
I've had customers use various methods of connection with no issues (solder, speed/push fit and the crimp fittings used on large sites). However, my final copper tube sizes are 15 or 22mm after expanding into the fins. Do make sure your existing and replacement are the same and also the same as the fitting design requirements.
What i like to see here is a drawing for a 3 pipe system ,
where 1 pipe distributes hot water through out to each heater inlet with a "T" , and a 3rd pipe returning cooler water from exiting each heater , so heaters one end gets hot water in, and the other end puts the exiting cooler water in the 3rd pipe coming from the last baseboard returning to the boiler .
Therefor each heater gets fresh hot water and the second heater in line don't get look water and the next on line gets much cooler water
I did a drawing like this for a project using Sill Line casing, which I now hold the trade mark for. Doubt you'd find an off the shelf US baseboard tall enough to accommodate the element of the and a flow and return pipe.
The Perimeter Heating Company Ltd in the UK can manufacture bespoke systems and can be ordered through G&C Salles LLC, but they are far more robust and efficient than the off the shelf stuff so expect to pay a premium.
I have lived with radiators, baseboard, and forced air (least fav). We are going to build on some land and looking into geothermal. My understanding is a heat exchanger can reverse the heating and pull warm air temps back to the ground for cooling and then circulate the geo cooled water acting as A/C. How and can geothermal work with baseboard or radiator systems?
Oh so this is what Seth Green is doing nowadays
/// Jared Leto when he’s stoned lol
Do you have a video re: replacing the enclosure .... that would be helpful
Noted!
I have a small 2 bedroom bilevel house. 3 zones, 1 for downstairs, 1 livingroom & kitchen. 1 for bed rooms. Hot water baseboard. The problem is there are no aluminum fins on the pipes in the bedrooms, just pipes. Is there any type of product that can be put on the pipes. Or do they have to be cut & completely redone?
www.amazon.ca/Fin-Clamp-CLR-2-Baseboard-Additional/dp/B00GHUSRSY/ref=asc_df_B00GHUSRSY/?tag=googleshopc0c-20&linkCode=df0&hvadid=292928524062&hvpos=&hvnetw=g&hvrand=7404042244236678235&hvpone=&hvptwo=&hvqmt=&hvdev=c&hvdvcmdl=&hvlocint=&hvlocphy=9000081&hvtargid=pla-311203036008&psc=1
Seems quite expensive though, $100+ for 2'. Depending on the length of your heater, it might be cheaper to have someone replace the whole thing.
I just had that happen to me. Now my property managers are coming by here the end of this month, and I am going to ask them where the HELL are the fins??? No wonder I am cold all the time. I was thinking my thermostat was bad. Nope. Missing parts.
You can get hinged fin segments that clamp around existing pipes, not sure on efficiency but they do exists. Or replace with a Sill-Line type Finned Tube.
Hi, wondering really how to determine how many and what size where, pretty much location. Should I be mixing up lengths or keep it the same.
I am moving into a house with baseboard heating. I have been told it’s cheaper to run baseboard heating on a boiler system than having a furnace heat a home.
Is this true at all? Or does it depend?
Should the heating element run through the entire baseboard setup or only in a few sections?
That depends! Are you using your heater at full capacity or on a lower setting?
@@PEXUniverse I have 3 zones. One zone has new baseboards but my 1 and 2 zones are older and have more pipe than heating element "radiator". Also my zone settings are not working independently for some odd reason.
@@MaiteBonilla Interesting! There can be a variety of issues. A few follow up questions: Do you know if the pipes run anywhere where they could freeze, is there an air separation device, have you been able to bleed the convectors and/ or are the circulators properly running?
Can I add a shut off valve to an individual room baseboard heating unit.
Not on a single pipe system.
Everytime my heat turns on, I hear water running through the pipes. Is this normal?
No. Purge that loop. It's got some air
I’m trying to get on your web site but unable too can you send me a link
www.pexuniverse.com/
What brand baseboard do you recommend? I couldn’t find any on the PEX Universe website
Do you have to use copper in your baseboard or can you use PEX?
You can use either
I looked thru the comments and could not find if this question had been asked or answered. We're doing a remodel in one section of the house which includes moving a few baseboards. There is a tricky little corner in one of the rooms and a plumber that came to give us an estimate suggested that he could use PEX at one small portion where pipe would be connecting underneath the floor. Is that right to do that instead of just using copper?
Yes, PEX has an outer coating called EVOH which makes it ideal for heating cooling and snow melting systems.
Is it ok to adjust the flow to each zone using the lever on the pipe for that zone?I can see i have 3 pipes for 3 zones,each pipe has a lever and a faucet.All 3 look as if the lever is fully open.I wasn't sure if that can be adjusted or if that's to shut them off or turn on completely.So far I've closed the flaps on the baseboard heaters upstairs but its still very hot upstairs and cold downstairs.
Adjusting using the lever shouldn't be an issue. Especially if you have a mechanical valve gauge attached to each one. What you are doing sounds correct.
Can I attach a mechanical valve gauge to an existing individual baseboard heating strip ? There's no thermostat in my apartment, so there's no way to turn an individual rooms heating unit off or even regulate it... what should I do. ?
@@MESENJAH how do you pay for your heating? I'd be wanting a start and meter so I know I'm not paying for someone else's heating.
Boxing over or Blocking airflow should help reduce the output.
Additional dampers to over boxing would offer a degree of manual control too.
I couldn't figure out how this heated a home until I moved to upstate NY and was pleasantly suprised
Difference between cast iron and copper fin baseboard?
By cast iron, do you mean the old large bore tubes? If so I'd say weight, and cost to heat. The large bore tubes have higher water volumes which require more energy to heat.
My house has a 56 year old Iron Fireman boiler and three zones of baseboard. All the baseboard in the basement has rusted severely due to damp or water filled concrete block walls, and or shallow water on the basement floor. I have not been successful stopping the water from getting into the blocks or onto the floor.. The heating elements are ok, but the frames and covers have all disintegrated. I am looking for replacement aluminum or plastic frames and covers, or complete baseboard with aluminum or plastic frames and covers. I want to drain the system, remove the old baseboard, put hydraulic cement on the walls (to reduce the infiltration of water), and then install the new frames, covers and or complete baseboard. Where can I obtain aluminum or plastic baseboard, and how do I attach it to the walls without using fasteners or nails, creating leakage points? Would baseboard work ok if I mounted it high up off the floor? That way I would not have to worry about drilling holes in the water filled blocks.
Hope you got this sorted.
Is the heating in the basement to dry it out? I assume it's an un-usable space due to the water? I only ask as heating the space would just create humidity which would be bad for timber joists. I'd opt for sump pumps and ventilation if this was the case.
But to answer the question. Finned Tube heating can be suspended at high level (though I'd expect a reduction in efficiency), also, there should be no reason why a manufacturer could not fabricate the steel parts in aluminium.
@@shaneord7527 Thank you. Although the basement is unfinished, the baseboard was installed to make it liveable in our cold winters (upstate NY). This year the spring thaw brought hundreds of gallons of muddy water into the basement. The house is sort of at the bottom of a fishbowl. All the surrounding land is higher. So all the rain and snow melt flow to the house. Because there are no street drains, or ditches, there's no good place to flow the water to, so no sump pumps.
How do you turn off water baseboard heaters in the summer???
I would think you turn off the boiler and drain the system or perhaps it can be used to removed heat as well
Reduce the temp on your thermostat. Furnace will still run occasionally so that you have hot water for dishes etc.
Should have said on your room thermostat.
Does your boiler not have separate water and heating? Would have thought you switch heating off at thermostat. Boiler will still heat water on demand for taps. Or are you talking old immersion tank system?
@@shaneord7527 yes I had separate water and heating but even with the heater thermostat turned all the way down of the temp dropped to 55 the heater works kick on.
If you have 800' it would be 480,000btu. But I'm sure we all know u meant 8 ft for 4800 but. Lol good video
Had me thinking, I don't got close to enough feet of baseboards if I utilized every inch of every wall!! Lol
I am adding a 8x12 room to the front of my house. Do you have a video that shows how to shut down the system, open the loop and add the new room in series and bring the system back online?
@Supa Trending Daily hi, I have a question if you don't mind answering. If we upgrade from oil to gas heating system do the company remove the radiators in each rooms and place baseboard like these or is that a separate performing and cost? Thank you in advance.
What is the max temp rating for pex used for boilers.😎
Here are the pressure ratings, assuming you're using oxygen barrier tubing.
[Operating Pressure] --> [Maximum working temperature]
80 psi --> 200˚F
100 psi --> 180˚F
160 psi --> 73˚F
Here is a link to full technical specifications of Oxygen barrier tubing.
www.pexuniverse.com/uploads/docs/pdf/tech-specs-oxygen-barrier-pex-tubing.pdf
PEX Universe p
Does anyone here know how to cut off the baseboard heater if it’s not electrical? I have 2 roommates who have mental issues because they love the thermostat to be on 80 all day long. I have the smallest room with only 1 window and it literally hell hot in my room. Like not an inch of air, even if I open the window. The heat even overpowers my AC, which they complain I use too much. But I have no choice because 80 degrees on the thermostat is way too high to me. They have no kind of understanding or reasoning, so I have been stuck in this situation for awhile. They both have bigger rooms so maybe they don’t feel the heat as much? My room is like a hole in the wall. It’s so hot that sometimes I have to sleep with no shirt on or pants! And I have the AC on and a fan on high blowing directly on me! Once in a blue they set it to 70 or slightly lower and I’m able to breathe. But I’m desperately seeking for an answer for what I can do. I wish I could just break this damn baseboard heater! I want it permanently off. Can I cover it with something to block the heat? Please somebody let me know if there are any options possible to stop this!! Thanks
Yes, block the air inlet and/or outlet. It will then turn into a very inefficient radiator. If you can remove panels and insulate them it will help.
Also, removing fins off the tube will do the same but is somewhat irreversible. A decent pear of scissors should be enough for the thin foil type fins, tin snips for more robust ones (0.5mm). Hope this helps TPHC.
In my house it's one zone for 4 beds and 3 baths upstairs.
And master bedroom has three baseball haters which I believe are at the end of the series and they don't even get warm while the other heaters gets hot.
How can I fix this issue.
Hello Did you solve the problems ? Thank you
I closed all the baseboard heaters and just left the master bedroom heaters open.. by that I mean the little shutter that open and closes the baseboard heater.
Now the other rooms are not burning and the master bedroom heaters also getting hot.
Just bough this house and came with thiis ki d of heaters and it seems that they are not warming. The house the way I want. Unless they are too small .
Question: Why would I choose baseboard heating as opposed to other room heating options?
if you live in an old house, I wouldn't recommend baseboard.
Simpley weigh up pros an cons of each, what works for some won't for others. There's also personal choice, some don't like pipes running round the house, some don't like forced air systems, some don't want to rip up floors to install underfloor heating.
4:25
You mentioned using a sharkbite to connect the pex to copper however I was told that sharkbite fittings are not designed for heating applications and that it violated code. The tech who installed my sister's boiler and used several sharkbite elbows and the building inspector made her have all of the sharkbite ones removed and replaced with sweat fittings
And even if permitted, It would cost a small fortune to put a sharkbite on both ends of every baseboard in the house.
In general they can be used for radiant or hydronic heating applications that do not exceed 200F, but your inspector should know best for that area's codes!
My house gas baseboard heating doesn’t working all the floor only work first floor why that happens?
Check all valve upstairs are open along with any that may be lurking in risers from ground floor. Bleed the system, could be that it's just one big air lock. Vacuum out fins, I've seen some systems that are only 4 or 5 years old but have never been cleaned so the fins are blocked. Make sure any dampers (air baffles) are open. Some systems have manual or electronic dampers to stop air flow. These systems are convective, no air flow, no heat.
Two more points, are there fins on the pipe and is the pipe connected to the heating system?
Hope this helps.
!!!Homeowners!!!
Never use a shark bite fitting !!!
@ Viega only
@ Sharkbites are temporary not permanent fix… viega pro press/ mega press fitting on the other hand are permanent.
Does anyone else want to fix his shaky table for him?
this haircut is distracting
My 30 year old house has in floor radiant heat, however it was built using poly b pipe. Is this the only way I can heat my basement now if I abandon the in floor heat and stay with a boiler? Upstairs is forced air they fan coil unit.
Is it ok to use a 3/4’ baseboard with reduced down to 1/2’ pex piping?throughout the house?
4:25
My 30 year old house has in floor radiant heat, however it was built using poly b pipe. Is this the only way I can heat my basement now if I abandon the in floor heat and stay with a boiler? Upstairs is forced air thru fan coil unit.