Testing a ProCharger ProFlow bypass valve | Horsepower United
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- Опубліковано 21 сер 2024
- When asking about bypass valves, and blow off valves...
I get a LOT of questions asking me...
"Does the small leak cause a boost loss?"
So I put it to the test with the help of a few co-workers, and a nice Big Block Chevy. :)
Want to know more about all the different blow-off and bypass valves that ProCharger makes? Just drop them a call at 913-338-2886 or click this link www.procharger...
PS: and yes, that motor is LOUD!!!!
The bypass is needed in order not to overload the supercharger when the throttle is closed after acceleration when the engine and supercharger are overclocked and running at high speeds . If the bypass does not work, the serpentine belt lights up
That monster fridge though
Air follows the path of least resistance. Add an air on off valve to you air bleed side to simulate poor flow like stock size intake ports or intake manifold. As you close the valve on the air bleed it will cause a restriction. And put pressure against the surge valve making it leak.. some cars that would be a metered air leak witch effects the tune.
Loaded with energy drinks in your office LOL i like that!
They are gone now, kicked the habit!
@@erikradzins I need to dial down on energy drinks aswell lol :)
@@liptonicetea274 dude, its HARD. The headache for 3 days after I stopped was wicked. But so worth it... I still drink a coffee a day, or maybe two... but thats about it.
WE LOVE THIS!
Good video, well explained. Like to see more.
Going to be posting more soon. :)
Test the race valve you know the RED ONE
more boost vids plz
Working on it!
Good video
I could really use your help! Im having a nightmare of a problem trying to get an AMR500 to work on a Mitsubishi Mirage 1.2L. The problem is at idle the amr is producing too much pressure and it needs to vent. If its not vented its damaging my components and overheating to the point of melting belts. Changing pulley ratio didnt make any difference at idle and low throttle opening. So I need a way to divert pressure at idle or low throttle closings so I dont cook the AMR500. Im getting great 7psi boost up top but down low I need a system or valve that recirculates. Ive plated with spring rates in my BOV and nothing does the trick . There must be a way...
Hey I'm having similar problems now .. did you end up finding the problem?
I can't understand why people want a quiet blower I want to hear that thing go down the block....
That's why I am asking if you can do a sound comparing between your famous F1-A and D1SC and using The 2 BOV you offer the basic and the huge RED BOV
I want a quiet blower, I don't want people to know I have one.
that at 6 pounds tho.. what about 9-11 pounds? i get around 10-11 lbs on good day with my p1x on 3.60 pulley at 6-7500rpm on a 19 mustang gt, and im losing boost sometimes when i shift.. i only get like 5-6lbs at 6-7k
I got a p1x with a 3.7 I should be seeing 11-12 and only getting 4 psi
Freaking awesome
Can we see a test at 10-15 psi? TBH i would have preferred the scientific version, Total Blower CFM vs CFM to motor and CFM to losses.
The reason I didn't do the scientific version was due to how expensive and time consuming it is to turn on and set up that test cell. (for a video thats got 1,000 views its hardly worth it... heck 1000 views didn't even pay for the fuel I burned in that BBC) .... the plastic bag said all that needed to be said. The blower was spinning at an RPM that moves about ~500cfm, yet the "leak" didn't have enough CFM to even blow the plastic bag out of the way.... And to your point with "MORE BOOST" you would assume it would leak more right?..... thanks to an aerodynamic effect on how air moves past butterflies... it doesn't. The leak will stay basically the same, from 1psi to 50psi. :)
Dunno mate, camera work was pretty dodgy, motor wasn't really kept at a consistent speed. The bag does move there is a leak, whether its enough to make a hp gain, probably nothing noticeable.
My main gripes is when you purchase a Pro Race Kit designed to make 500+rwhp on an e85 ls1 and your sent that valve they say is rated to 600-650hp, Im already at that at that on a kit they designed. Then the radiator cowl, that was knocked up by monkeys leaving a massive gap at the bottom, and not to forget they sent me a carby efi reg for an efi ls1, bit hard to sort it out quickly WHEN YOUR IN AUSTRALIA. Then my procharger dealer left the country.
No "race" kit comes with this entry level valve... It sounds like the dealer might have had some communication issues and I hate hearing that. Who was the dealer? ........Though no matter if the motor in this video stays consistent or not, the leak is the same... which is best described as "irrelevant".
Also fluids always take the path of least resistance. How about you add a couple metres of pipework and and intercooler before your outlet.
That wouldn't matter... when air moves past a butterfly its a self-limiting CFM flow limit. It's not "basic" aerodynamics, but I would say middle-level stuff they teach.
Can you recirculate this? Or is the one side vented to atmosphere?
more boost videos :-)
I need that screen you’re using. Is there anywhere to get something like that? I am looking for something different that a run of the mill turbo guard.
ProCharger sells them, so just drop them a call at 913-338-2886 and tell them you want the old school silver marine bell mouth and screen
Can you control the boost like a turbo car with that bypass valve
Not with this version... ProCharger has others that you "could" do that with. However trying to make a SC work like a Turbo isn't really advised.
Sooooooo..... My procharger BOV is always open.... and closes under throttle. Why does that one seem always closed?
There is a spring installed.
Erik. Is the filter at the end of the bypass valve completely necessary?
Only to reduce sound... like a muffler. :_) No other reason
Erik Radzins fantastic. I may still pick up the Bullet style. Time will tell. Gotta get my kit and see how she sounds first. 👌🏼
Just got my procharger p1sc with the same bypass valve and has the filter at the end. If I take the filter off will I need to cap that end shut?
Kam Gill he says, no. It’s only for noise reduction. 👌🏼
Erik Radzins Thanks for that info
But when it's open like that during boost. What prevents a venturini effect and actually sucks unfiltered air?
Its never open during boost.... its always exhaling. However if the engine cars about that small of a night bit of unfiltered air, then the person has bigger issues.
@@erikradzins but it's never closed. Not meaning open like when its venting. But open because it never "seats" but like you said of its exhauling aka boost leak. Your loosing boost. And if you are running a maf sensor. You are loosing air that's been metered.
@@erikradzins theres also a reason why they put the "engine simulating tube on the valve test setup. On the bottom and not coming straight off the end. If air is shooting across the bypass valve it would turn it into a venturini and it will suck unfiltered air. Because who does a super charger set up with 90 degree sharp bends. Maybe people who want to sell valves that dont seal ?
@@Verge513 you’re not losing air that’s been metered because this is a recirc valve, not a blow off. All the air bypassed is accounted for because it’s all going back into the engine.
@@Verge513 you really need to learn the difference in a bypass valve and a blow off valve.
Im extremely new to centri blowers i was told bov's cause issues with the impeller rather a bypass valve? Is any of that true?
Not true, drop procharger a call and they can explain more. :)
@@erikradzins Awesome thanks for the info i feel as long as my maf is before the bov i should be fine venting the metered air just gotta extend my maf wires.
@@ebkbk9902 you’re in for a rude awakening if your maf is before the blow off valve, my friend. Any air that passes through the maf is accounted for by the engine entirely, so if you’re blowing off air after your maf already read that it was there, problem city. Your car will never run right at idle and at the time of every blow off of air. The only way this will work is if you run a blow through setup which is where the maf is right before the throttle body, so you blow off the excess air BEFORE it reaches the maf. However, these setups are harder to tune on some applications and there’s only like one manufacturer of these mafs that a tuner will want to mess with, all the rest are crap. Good luck.
@@dramaface not on a speed density engine
Funny you install a cog drive on a P1SC to test the pro flow. test it on a car which has a Procharger installed. That gap is a vacuum leak.
The cog drive was because those are the belts used on the test stand. Since the stand is normally used to run in 3,000HP blowers like the F-3R-143. :) I didn't want to search for the lower crank pulley, and the 8 rib belts. :) I was just saving time. :)
How can it be a vac leak when the S/C is ALWAYS producing boost. Idiot.
Nice test but discharge pipe should have been connected to engine so it could build pressurized boost . There is no resistance .
Yes there is. ;) I explained that in the video. :)
"...it really isnt THAT much of an issue"
soooo your saying its still an issue. lol
As an owner of a stage 2 kit for just over a month, this entire setup has been nothing more then a headache building on 1-2lbs of boost. After getting the run around by procharger with more then 10 calls to them I am done and moving on. This product is trash, I should have went with my gut and just thrown a positive displacement on there .
Um no, its NOT an issue. LOL. If you are only building 2 psi of boost, either a tube isn't connected or a rag is stuck in a tube or the intercooler.
@@erikradzins ok, ill tear it apart again and look