I ran an AMR300 supercharger on a fuel injected 420 cc single cylinder Harbor Freight engine with a 1:1 drive ratio. As I recall we got 8 PSi of boost. The 13 hp engine was also ran with the induction pipes disconnected so the blower didn't produce any boost and the little engine had no problem spinning the supercharger up to redline. We discovered a few issues with this type of supercharger, first one was the gear drive inside the supercharger develops a lot of heat and we were able to wick away some of the heat with a water cooled heat sink from a PC. The second issue is the supercharger cannot tolerate any vacuum or negative pressure... like when the engine is at idle. If there is any vacuum, the oil from the gear drive will get past the seals and be consumed by the engine and the gear drive will be sucked dry in a few hours... the solution is to use a bypass or double throttle bodies.
Bypass valve works really well from what I understand. that’s the way they do it on the old 3800 sc v6. It’s just a necessary edition for idle quality and in this case blower function
Thanks for sharing. Given that info my small brain can’t comprehend how it could rob approximately 28hp according to the dyno results. The math isn’t working. Lol
Yeah man love your content you're so awesome I'm trying to learn how to walk like you and talk like you and sound like you I dreamed about your content last night because you're and your content are so awesome I'm leaving my family for more yt content and stuff.. lol
Air pressure increases about 2% for every 10°f which could explain why the stock fittings produced more boost. Although the higher boost wouldn't produce more power because the mass flow is lower.
This is exactly my thoughts. The factory outlet is a restriction and the increased temperature will raise boost while it depletes air density causing a negative airflow measurement overall. I'm now thinking about putting one of these on a jeep 4.0
The reason you are measuring less pressure with the larger inlets is related to the venturi effect. Although you are pushing more air through the supercharger, you are still using the same funnel where the air intake is and the same restrictor on the exit. The venturi effect is that the pressure decreases as velocity increases. You are flowing more air through the same diameter reductions, and the air pressure at the inlet of the funnel is the same, and the measurement point is the same, so more velocity = lower pressure. If you want a better way to measure it, you should measure the pressure at the entrance to the supercharger (which should be a vacuum at that point) and measure the pressure in your discharge pipe and subtract the two. This will give you the pressure produced by the supercharger only, neglecting the pressure change from the funnel on the input causing the venturi effect.
Boost was higher with the smaller inlet because it was heated more. Going to take your numbers later and generate a lb/min flow rate graph. Thank you for the great work and wonderful data!
Pretty sure you can see the belt slippage in the video, up in the higher rpm range... seems obvious... seemed obvious before you were even mentioning the possibility. Also, the boost leak is probably at the super Richie inlet and outlet... outlet mostly .. but both seem to have the same issue. They aren't fully welded, they overlap the square inlet and outlet face, and don't seem to have any additional gasket to seal them... so, the metal on metal alone would lose something, but then the lack of a full weld around the collars is another big source for air to escape. Fix those two issues, and the boost would probably go up a good bit.
@@woodzyfox4735 It was said multiple times in the video that the AMR500 wasn't connected to the motor for an intake, the motor is only there to run the blower.
Just an idea, you can pretty easily put an optical RPM meter on the blower pulley and compare the RPM ratio between it and the engine to detect slip without needing to go through the change to cog to rule it out.
Is it possible that when you run the factory plastic fittings and produce higher discharge temperatures, thus expanding the air so much that it produces more boost than with the larger Richie fittings that produce lower discharge temperatures
@@Bill-flatplanefool1/3 of a 1970' sbc 350 so about 50-60ish tire. Based on cfm carb size guess. If rich had given us a lb/min there would be no room to gess. 1lb/min =10crank and 7wheel hp. Ther was no mention of DA so no start point for math to build a lb/min equation.
@@blow0me Drawing a line with a paint pen and using an laser reader that doesn't care about distance is a little easier than adding a tooth and dealing hall sensor alignment.
People still think about this wrong all the time. Only thing that matters is mass airflow. Grams per second. Speaking about it in any other way simply muddies the conversation.
If Gale Banks taught me anything, it's that the boost pressure is probably lower on the higher flow run as a function of air density. Maybe since the blower could breath easier, in and out, it was able to compress the air more efficiently.
I ran one of these on my sweep the floor vw engine and boy did it wake it up! Even at 4 psi it was a huge power increase out of the 1641cc engine. The amr500 is probably the best hp for the money for a vw as long as you can make your own intake adapters like I did although there are a few companies that sell intake kits for these to bolt onto a vw. I've got a few videos of that engine on my channel if you'd like to take a look
@@V8N8T To be honest I wouldn't even know where to start. I'm very new to all of this. About 2 months ago I seen this late 60s/early 70s beetle in amazing condition just sitting in this junkyard out in the woods and I'm gonna try to get it from the landlord. Since then I've been basically studying air-cooled vw beetles, it's been a bit of an obsession lately
@johnraitt2555 that's awesome hopefully you can get it. Vw's are a very basic machine and pretty easy to work on. I'd suggest after you get it go thru the brakes, get the engine running well and the rest of the car sorted out. They are a mechanical car and require maintenance like valve adjustment and brake adjustment from time to time and they are old so parts will need to be replaced here and there. If you have a local vw specialist have them look the car over before you buy it to see how much work it will need
@@V8N8T From my understanding it was restored by somebody local about 4 years ago and when the man passed away there was no surviving family members so it's been sitting ever since. The motor has been wrapped in a tarp, I haven't gotten a good look at it yet. But if it's in as good of a condition as the rest of the beetle seems to be there may not be too much to work on. I do appreciate your kind words, fam
Very cool data! I think the next step would be to add a MAF sensor in your inlet as well as data for the ambient air parameters such that you can account for air density and measure flow in lbs/min like superchargers and turbos typically are. That will be much more able to be correlated to a HP number. Interesting to see pressure drop after the mods, my thought is that IAT being less means the SC is more efficient, and so is pumping larger mass of air through lower pressure due to improved density. You should get one of those banks gauges, his shit is really dialed in on this whole air density situation.
He has everything for DA in and out, pressure and temperature + the bid blue measuring device should have the amibiant data . Just didn't present the nessasary numbers to pull out more practical data like lb/min.
Awesome content! I would love to see you do this with a 6-71, with a restriction of say, 8 lbs boost by 6000rpm. So many of us street guys run these, would be amazing to see real world numbers on the horsepower draw. Thanks for all your amazing hot rod science!!
Well, I would not run that on a small block. Because it'd be very restrictive, the only way. If you must use that super charger, you'd have to get it all the way up to A 10:1 ratio on the belt or higher to before even starts to keep up with the air flow demand of the engine. Hence the reason why they ran a 671 super charger on small block engines. Now a small block, Chevrolet with a 671 at 6000 rpm. Aking APS I that's not correct either a you got a lot of bypass Or belt slippage of some kind or the incorrect belt ratio. If you look on wield superchargers chart states 350 with 6/71 at 1:1 make 31psi .
Have to remember: Your boost pump has same characteristics as wings. Similar restrictions for speed and pressure envelopes as wings. In other words, the compressor can only be spun so fast, and produce so much pressure within a fixed range, or "optimal range". Below and above that speed and pressure, you will see reduced output. OR, as someone else put it, more money = better boost (usually) ;)
You need to put it on the Pontiac 4 cyl. Also, did you retest the output in the first configuration to make sure to it hadn't warn which would have reduced it's efficiency?
Very cool test, I remember reading about stuff like this from the 60s where they would dyno one engine running off a SC that was powered by another one. That blower is cute! Don't quite have a project small enough for something like that but it looks like it'd be great for something like a motorcycle, my Cruze 1.4L or a Sprint 3 cylinder.
I think some engines that run on poor mixture, I think some skyactiv engine, use the blower to reduce/regulate the air flow and keep the engine in the sweet spot for fuel economy. Cool test.
as for the curve flattening out at the top (18k rpm) my uneducated guess would be given the size of the rotors in that little guy is that the vacuum on the intake side is so strong that it is not pulling more air in anymore effectively. its just stretching air the same way a engine does on the intake side. not belt slippage
With your inlet wide open, it’s going to take much more HP to spin it, the smaller inlet will require much less hp, Steve Morris did a good test for that..
Before modifying to a toothed belt try modifying the bracket to adapt two pulleys within the belt route one just above the super charger pulley and one just below the supercharger pulley and route the belt through make sure the fit is real tight between the two pulleys, this will ensure the highest contact patch the ribbed belt has around the supercharger pulley itself this will also nearly eliminate pulley slippage at high revs due to the belt loosing grip as the slack end of the belt.
Maybe the higher velocity through the modified in/out created some sort of venturi effect across the port going to the boost sensor giving you a false pressure reading? Also it's hard to be sure but it looks like your bigger inlet has the sides of the square maybe protruding out into the round tube... if that is the case maybe you could get a tad more airflow by either disassembling it and grinding those out or else maybe shape one end of the round tube into a square to match the actual opening a bit better like a round to square transition then weld it to a square hole in the plate. I had no idea these things existed till you posted this and man they are cheap, now I got to figure out how to build something with one.
More airflow = Less restriction. you get the same result "Porting" (Open up the outlet triangle to the edges of the silencer holes) a Eaton M90 blower or even a MN112 Boost goes down, outlet air temp goes down and WHP goes up. I don't know if the inlet matters as much as the outlet.
The boost was lower due to the lower temperature. At least 1/2 of your boost was the increased air temperature. Your intakes increased the efficiency of the blower. This lowered the air temperature at the same flow rate. This lowered the boost pressure even though you are moving more air.
Add some stripes to your drive belt and use an optical tachometer to measure the belt speed. If you plot it vs engine RPM you'll see if the belt slips or not--the engine RPM and belt speed will be linear when not slipping.
My best guess as to why boost decreased would be turbulence caused. The smaller outlet is closer to the size of the restrictor creating less turbulence on outflow. The larger outlet not only is the air restricted but it's more back pressure against the blower
I think the lower temp made up for the horsepower that would have been lost from the lower amount of boost lower temperature air is more dense which means more horsepower
I think you were getting more airflow with less boost pressure on the improved intake due to it running more efficiently. Perhaps because the stock inlet was a restriction, causing you too superheat the air, or perhaps due to shape of the inlet (curves instead of right angle edges etc).
Exactly boost is a number relative to restriction. You can run the same setup on a stock engine and get higher boost, but once you increase the engines flow the boost will decrease, but flow will increase. Boost is a relative factor not an absolute number.
You used a longer, ribbed hose for the stock outlet, and a shorter, smooth, and curved hose for the super richie outlet. The longer length and more turbulent flow from the ribs might be the reason for the higher boost. While the Super Richie outlet you have a more "laminar" like flow, less restriction, more CFM, = less pressure/boost at the sensor.
I wonder if you had switched it back to the original smaller inlet and outlets if it would go back to making the same boost. The Amr500 is only rated at 16k rpm so spinning it to 18k might have caused some extra wear and opened up clearances giving less boost.
I think the blower overheats at high speed, it causes all sorts of extra friction and would eventually show as belt slippage. I doubt you can just keep spinning the little guy forever, something eventually has to give. As to the increased flow causing less boost, my guess is the extra airflow increasing velocity and then pressure drop over your map sensor. That, and it seems the outlet would be much cooler with the extra airflow. I'd be interested in retesting with an "intake manifold" with much more volume.
Was curious about these blowers. They look like the units in small sewer treatment plants. It would be nice to see what it does with a stock subaru 2.0 or 2.5.
So… Will The AMR 500 Works With My Kia Rio 2003…? And The Car Have 1.3L Stock Engine… (Unknown HP) Because I Found Out This Is Only The Cheapest Supercharger I Found On The Internet… I Wanted To Put Into My Kia Rio…Will It Work…?
Supercharged 3800 guys learned long ago better flow = less boost. But it lowers intake temps and allows for a pulley change to make more power without spark knock.
Amazing work on this! Some things I noticed: Early pulls show the blower belt with alignment wear as evidenced by the white threaded material showing on the edge of the belt 5:53. The blower mounting bracket is being flexed forward under load which you can clearly see at 8:40 if you watch the blower in relation to the engine, letting the blower belt walk on the crank pulley. The belt looks like it rode up onto the outer lip of the crank pulley probably causing slippage (watch the engine crank pulley where the electrical cord in the floor is) you can see the belt was still on the outer lip of the crank pulley when you shut it down. Can't wait for the next video!!
no on the belt slippage caused by deflection. The belt walk was caused by simple misalignment after installation of the new inlet and outlets. I didn't align the belt before tightening the blower in place like I did when it was first assembled
What if you put an optical tachometer on the blower pulley? It sounds like its slipping to me. The flow is surprising but so is the horsepower needed to spin it. I'm thinking it would take a 60hp motor to around 100hp on 8-10psi with good charge cooling.
The bigger inlet allowed more turbulence on top of the blower where it’s picked up. The bigger inlet can make more flow with the bigger inlet but when you restrict to add boost it creates the turbulence which equates to less boost. You basically reached the max boost capacity of the the case. Just my hypothesis. Edit: you may be able to fix the turbulence and keep the bigger inlet by shaping the inlet slightly to keep the over all diameter but allow for less turbulence. Maybe 😂
The Boost lost with bigger intake was not for the reason you would suspect. It was because the blower was able to move more air that increased load on a belt pulley system that was already at 100%. Any further increases in load resulted in significantly higher slip ratio and net loss. With a cog drive or a 10 rib belt you would have seen an increase in Boost.
My thought on the difference between flow and boost between inlet and outlet types, making less boost with more flow is that higher flow velocity is naturally lower pressure. So the higher flow number was stacking up less boost - still better for the engine. Steve Brule explains it on Engine Masters better than I can. My estimate is that feeding that 5psi of boost through that engine would make another 132hp(ish) - more than making up for the power draw of the blower
Passing the point of diminishing returns maybe with the drop In boost? I'll give it one thing, it sounds damn good. Richard, now you need to hook it up to the engine so we can see how it becomes a restriction 😆
Air flow and air pressure are inversely related. Adding better flowing inlet/outlets reduces inherent restriction. This increases air flow (cfm) while simultaneously reducing pressure (psi) which is just a measurement of restriction.
Air temp is the reason for the boost difference, the smaller adaptors restricted airflow, it created a much hotter discharge temp so the air mass expanded more and that registered a higher pressure measurement.
The higher boost pressure on the restricted nozzle is just from heating (inefficiency). The high flow nozzles are less restrictive and result in less heating of the intake charge, thus lower indicated boost.
I think the blower lobes are actually separating. I don’t think the housing or the gaps inside the housing between the lobes are holding any more pressure.
@@richardholdener1727 then I guess maybe it’s some sort of cavitation issue turbulent air flow through the housing in and around the lobes, the reason I’m saying that as I think the rpm of the rotors is such that it should be creating more than that. She sounds like she’s really screaming and to only make 5 pounds of pressure seems off. But I’m not really a blower guy. I don’t know much more than the basics. But it does remind me of the blowers from the 30s in the 40s. They also made a lot of noise but didn’t create a whole Lotta pressure.
Bernoulli's Principle states that as the speed of a moving fluid increases, the pressure within the fluid decreases. The Bernoulli's Principle explains the behavior of an ideal fluid passing through a pipe or enclosed passageway such a pump.
Air speed. Faster air = lower pressure. Bernoulli’s principle. I also think I could hear belt slip on every run except the big inlet and outlet unrestricted. Always enjoy your videos, love to see people passionate about the science behind engines.
Yeah if you listen carefully you can hear the rpm’s on the blower kinda hang while the ls keep going up in rpm definitely a little belt slippage up at 10,000 or so blower rpm I think was also wondering about the accuracy of the pressure readings from airflow across the orifice of the pressure sensor I definitely think 250 cfm is possible with housing porting and maybe water cooling the housing along with an air to water intercooler the gear drive alone probably makes enough heat to increase air temps
I may be wrong here...but off the top of my head - air being a fluid built up the same PSI (pressure) however requiring higher engine revs to compress that volume to the same PSI. I believe if you overlay the oem fitting with the super fittings...you'll see the net performance of the blower was nearly the same. However, using the large less-restricted ports, you achieved higher CFM, and also lower charge air temp (higher air density)...so the 'super' ports should make higher overall boosted engine horsepower (assuming the ECM adds additional fuel). Richard....am I wrong ? Great stuff here...thanks !
With the large out let probably the reason it didnt build as much boost… i bet if you mix and match, super richy inlet/stock outlet would probably pick up your boost
air bypassing the rotor tips, leakage, inefficiency, that's how you check pump efficiency, flow open and flow at pressure. also as the case heats up more leak.
Boost dropped with the bigger outlet because all restrictions are additive. Even though you used the same "restrictor" to make boost, the total restriction is less with the bigger outlet, therefore lower boost pressure.
I think the reason the boost went down with the bigger inlet and outlet is because the smaller outlet was an additional restriction. When it went away the boost dropped. The boost droppinig off at the top looks like choked inlet flow.
I'm building a Porsche 912. Still at the walking around it and starring stage. An AMR500 is on my list of possibilities. This info is going to help a lot.
The boost pressure is lower on the higher inlet/outlet dimensions because of ideal gas law. The air is cooler, therefore more dense. I am too lazy to do the math here, but the mass air flow can be back calculated from pressure and temperature. Everything makes perfect sense here.
@@richardholdener1727 Honda D or B series, although B series VTEC might create an issue with the extra airflow when VTEC hits. Even with an Eaton M90 on a GSR motor, the boost dropped 3 psi at VTEC crossover.
If the outlet air is increasing in temp, it is coming out less dense and therefore would produce less boost and power due to the heat expansion. The high air speed, due to parasitic drag, heats up much more than a larger inlet and slower airflow would. That’s what’s my guess would be.
@@Joebauers2505 idk how true that is they've been making superchargers since the 1800s before turbos where practical to make. My thought was more cars can run turbos like i4 then a a big screw blower so they make turbos.
So here’s the real question how many of these do we need to actually increase power output seems like 3-4 would be about the same as a real v8 supercharger but have 3-4x more gear drives
My guess to the higher boost pressure with the stock plastic in/ex is the hose used! Looked like flexible radiator hose. Long ribbed hose would be a lot more turbulent and restrict flow downstream more than the smooth silicone elbow. Boost is a measurement of restriction.
I’d assume that since the air has less restriction leaving the blower and not staying in the blower, the air stays cooler so boost goes down as air flow goes up since heat is going down, so the air is taking up less space. Boost is always higher on the hot side of the inner cooler.
I firmly believe boost numbers are simply restriction numbers. The reason the boost number went down even though the flow increased proves that. Higher boost numbers are simply signs of restriction, improve the flow and the CFM will increase but the boost pressure decreases. It's like trying to blow through a straw vs a 1 inch pipe, you'll move more air with less restrictions.
Now take the next step and dramatically increase the flow through the smaller straw (the restrictor), with more flow and the same straw-why was there not more boost
I'd like to see it hooked up before anything is done to it. I have ideas about the boost discrepancy, but believe I'll keep that to myself because I'm probably incorrect.
Richard thanks for and this and the icing on the cake is you sending it to Kenny Bell wow super cool A+ 10 and a gold star 🤠.Twin AFR-500`S on the Trophy 4 banger would look cool
Hot air expands, with the hotter air created by the stock inlet/outlets, there is more airflow in the outlet pipe to give you higher boost but that air is less dense. If you measured the airflow after the blower this would have shown this The lower boost setup has a lot denser air, therefore more oxygen, and could produce more power.
the LS was only used to spin the blower to test airflow, temp and the power required to drive the blower so we now know what kind of motor we should run it on-once again, a 150-hp blower does not ADD power to a 440-hp na motor
Can we please get the raw data? CSV is fine. The lower pressure is because of the lower temp we left air density out of our calculations. Remember... (Presure*Volume)/Temperature The gold you have given us here is the ability to calculate air-mass/hp this is awesome! Steve Morris was talking about feeding one turbo with the exhaust from a motor on a different dyno (he has 2 side by side) The pump will have a max pressure design, and then if the output
@@richardholdener1727 because it's always moving the same volume of air with each rotation. If there is resistance to the flow either the pressure or the temperature must increase. Since what we want is a higher volume of air in the cylinder with the fuel, we really don't care about "boost" :-) not if we call PSI boost. Boost really should be PSI/temp. Two experiments I would love to see you run that would prove this. Does putting two AMR 500s in series produce more PSI than a single? I don't think it will because they are both moving the same volume of air. 2nd Most of us think pressure is what overcomes poor head flow. If a supercharger moves the same volume of air with each rotation. Is it better to have cooler lower pressure or higher PSI and higher Temp? Not sure how you would set that test up.
What displacement Honda VTEC 4 cylinder would be the best match for this blower assuming the goal was street driven, for max torque not HP, 2,200lb, 6,500rpm, and pump gas?
I ran an AMR300 supercharger on a fuel injected 420 cc single cylinder Harbor Freight engine with a 1:1 drive ratio. As I recall we got 8 PSi of boost. The 13 hp engine was also ran with the induction pipes disconnected so the blower didn't produce any boost and the little engine had no problem spinning the supercharger up to redline. We discovered a few issues with this type of supercharger, first one was the gear drive inside the supercharger develops a lot of heat and we were able to wick away some of the heat with a water cooled heat sink from a PC. The second issue is the supercharger cannot tolerate any vacuum or negative pressure... like when the engine is at idle. If there is any vacuum, the oil from the gear drive will get past the seals and be consumed by the engine and the gear drive will be sucked dry in a few hours... the solution is to use a bypass or double throttle bodies.
Very nice to see you here RC!! Love* your content and I hope you decide to twin charge the 3 cyl diesel engine 📈
@@budyeddi5814 Twin charge is an option, we first want to try the supercharger and see what happens. should be interesting.
@@robotcantina8957 I'm here for it 📈
Bypass valve works really well from what I understand. that’s the way they do it on the old 3800 sc v6. It’s just a necessary edition for idle quality and in this case blower function
Thanks for sharing. Given that info my small brain can’t comprehend how it could rob approximately 28hp according to the dyno results. The math isn’t working. Lol
Legend has it, Richard never actually goes home. He just goes on to the next test.
Try bigger inlet with stock outlet then the swapping
That's gear head dedication.
He's living the dream
Il bet he has spent many a night there.
He seems like he was a teacher that realized V8 are better and ran with it
It blows my mind that this channel isn't massive yet. Been following for years, your content is awesome.
I appreciate that!
Yeah man love your content you're so awesome I'm trying to learn how to walk like you and talk like you and sound like you I dreamed about your content last night because you're and your content are so awesome I'm leaving my family for more yt content and stuff.. lol
@@billbonu1639 you found something on the Internet to shit on, welcome to step one of the Internet.
There always has to be some asshole with no life typing shit. It's just pathetic.
Air pressure increases about 2% for every 10°f which could explain why the stock fittings produced more boost. Although the higher boost wouldn't produce more power because the mass flow is lower.
Also there could have been a ton of turbulence coming out of the stock outlet which would reduce flow and increase pressure.
This is exactly my thoughts. The factory outlet is a restriction and the increased temperature will raise boost while it depletes air density causing a negative airflow measurement overall. I'm now thinking about putting one of these on a jeep 4.0
Curious was the pressure decreasing at 5252 rpm with the big manifolds? Another variable the cam duration. 🤔
it wasnt connected.. Also there ment for 1.5L or less motors..
Wow a got a slow tercel might good to adapt that and see what hapeens
You are getting a back wash in the supercharger,when you restrict air flow .this increase pressure and drop volume.
The reason you are measuring less pressure with the larger inlets is related to the venturi effect. Although you are pushing more air through the supercharger, you are still using the same funnel where the air intake is and the same restrictor on the exit. The venturi effect is that the pressure decreases as velocity increases. You are flowing more air through the same diameter reductions, and the air pressure at the inlet of the funnel is the same, and the measurement point is the same, so more velocity = lower pressure.
If you want a better way to measure it, you should measure the pressure at the entrance to the supercharger (which should be a vacuum at that point) and measure the pressure in your discharge pipe and subtract the two. This will give you the pressure produced by the supercharger only, neglecting the pressure change from the funnel on the input causing the venturi effect.
I came here to say the same. Coming from an aviation background, it was easy to understand what was happening here.
Boost was higher with the smaller inlet because it was heated more. Going to take your numbers later and generate a lb/min flow rate graph. Thank you for the great work and wonderful data!
Boost was higher with the smaller inlet because boost is a measurement of restriction.
Grams per second please.
@@Joebauers2505 inlet restriction would not affect boost. outlet restriction would.
@@Marc_Wolfehe lives in the US, find a converter calculator
@@shadowopsairman1583I think he is asking for mass per sec (lb/sec) not a unit conversation, or he would have asked for bar.
Pretty sure you can see the belt slippage in the video, up in the higher rpm range... seems obvious... seemed obvious before you were even mentioning the possibility. Also, the boost leak is probably at the super Richie inlet and outlet... outlet mostly .. but both seem to have the same issue. They aren't fully welded, they overlap the square inlet and outlet face, and don't seem to have any additional gasket to seal them... so, the metal on metal alone would lose something, but then the lack of a full weld around the collars is another big source for air to escape. Fix those two issues, and the boost would probably go up a good bit.
It is just amazing how much you produce interesting content and how much time and effort it must need to do that. Thank you for doing all this!
thnx
THIS IS A LIE!! DO NOT BUY THIS!! Tese are limited to no more then a engine with LESS THEN 1.5L
it wasnt connected..
@@woodzyfox4735 It was said multiple times in the video that the AMR500 wasn't connected to the motor for an intake, the motor is only there to run the blower.
@@woodzyfox4735;; ;;;
Just an idea, you can pretty easily put an optical RPM meter on the blower pulley and compare the RPM ratio between it and the engine to detect slip without needing to go through the change to cog to rule it out.
What kind of power do you think that airflow would make .
Is it possible that when you run the factory plastic fittings and produce higher discharge temperatures, thus expanding the air so much that it produces more boost than with the larger Richie fittings that produce lower discharge temperatures
@@Bill-flatplanefool1/3 of a 1970' sbc 350 so about 50-60ish tire. Based on cfm carb size guess.
If rich had given us a lb/min there would be no room to gess. 1lb/min =10crank and 7wheel hp. Ther was no mention of DA so no start point for math to build a lb/min equation.
just as easy to add some ferrous metal for a tooth and point a hall sensor at it and datalog it on the ecu for comparison.
@@blow0me Drawing a line with a paint pen and using an laser reader that doesn't care about distance is a little easier than adding a tooth and dealing hall sensor alignment.
Every sub 100hp engine needs two of these.
I was thinking of trying to install one on my 67 hp 4kc Toyota starlet motor
@@619omni itd probably work great
@@619omniat half bar you'd get 90hp with this thing
😄😆😅😂🤣👍
Thinking of putting this on a d16 from a 02 civic lx. Non vtec. Thought it might help get it above 100hp
Like gale banks says “air density” lower temp air and a little less boost can make more power. That is why the cfm increased
People still think about this wrong all the time. Only thing that matters is mass airflow. Grams per second.
Speaking about it in any other way simply muddies the conversation.
It even sounded better with the bigger inlet and outlet, and the charge temperatures show that it's just the right way to go.
If Gale Banks taught me anything, it's that the boost pressure is probably lower on the higher flow run as a function of air density. Maybe since the blower could breath easier, in and out, it was able to compress the air more efficiently.
15:03 boost was lower because the air charge was cooler and more dense
I ran one of these on my sweep the floor vw engine and boy did it wake it up! Even at 4 psi it was a huge power increase out of the 1641cc engine. The amr500 is probably the best hp for the money for a vw as long as you can make your own intake adapters like I did although there are a few companies that sell intake kits for these to bolt onto a vw. I've got a few videos of that engine on my channel if you'd like to take a look
I gotta know details on this. I'm looking into getting a vw beetle and that's something I'm interested in
@johnraitt2555 are you wanting to know more about the motor or supercharger setup
@@V8N8T To be honest I wouldn't even know where to start. I'm very new to all of this. About 2 months ago I seen this late 60s/early 70s beetle in amazing condition just sitting in this junkyard out in the woods and I'm gonna try to get it from the landlord. Since then I've been basically studying air-cooled vw beetles, it's been a bit of an obsession lately
@johnraitt2555 that's awesome hopefully you can get it. Vw's are a very basic machine and pretty easy to work on. I'd suggest after you get it go thru the brakes, get the engine running well and the rest of the car sorted out. They are a mechanical car and require maintenance like valve adjustment and brake adjustment from time to time and they are old so parts will need to be replaced here and there. If you have a local vw specialist have them look the car over before you buy it to see how much work it will need
@@V8N8T From my understanding it was restored by somebody local about 4 years ago and when the man passed away there was no surviving family members so it's been sitting ever since. The motor has been wrapped in a tarp, I haven't gotten a good look at it yet. But if it's in as good of a condition as the rest of the beetle seems to be there may not be too much to work on. I do appreciate your kind words, fam
Very cool data! I think the next step would be to add a MAF sensor in your inlet as well as data for the ambient air parameters such that you can account for air density and measure flow in lbs/min like superchargers and turbos typically are. That will be much more able to be correlated to a HP number. Interesting to see pressure drop after the mods, my thought is that IAT being less means the SC is more efficient, and so is pumping larger mass of air through lower pressure due to improved density. You should get one of those banks gauges, his shit is really dialed in on this whole air density situation.
He has everything for DA in and out, pressure and temperature + the bid blue measuring device should have the amibiant data . Just didn't present the nessasary numbers to pull out more practical data like lb/min.
This guy already trying to write a fuel map for it...
Awesome content!
I would love to see you do this with a 6-71, with a restriction of say, 8 lbs boost by 6000rpm.
So many of us street guys run these, would be amazing to see real world numbers on the horsepower draw.
Thanks for all your amazing hot rod science!!
Very specific lol
it wasnt connected.. Also there ment for 1.5L or less motors..
What would you run them on? I’m thinking if it would add anything to my small block Chevy lol.
Well, I would not run that on a small block. Because it'd be very restrictive, the only way. If you must use that super charger, you'd have to get it all the way up to A 10:1 ratio on the belt or higher to before even starts to keep up with the air flow demand of the engine. Hence the reason why they ran a 671 super charger on small block engines. Now a small block, Chevrolet with a 671 at 6000 rpm. Aking APS I that's not correct either a you got a lot of bypass Or belt slippage of some kind or the incorrect belt ratio. If you look on wield superchargers chart states 350 with 6/71 at 1:1 make 31psi .
@@woodzyfox4735 2.0l
Have to remember: Your boost pump has same characteristics as wings. Similar restrictions for speed and pressure envelopes as wings.
In other words, the compressor can only be spun so fast, and produce so much pressure within a fixed range, or "optimal range". Below and above that speed and pressure, you will see reduced output.
OR, as someone else put it, more money = better boost (usually) ;)
good point. Propeller tips when they go supersonic do some inefficient things.
You need to put it on the Pontiac 4 cyl. Also, did you retest the output in the first configuration to make sure to it hadn't warn which would have reduced it's efficiency?
Ecotec or iron duke ?
And if ecotec what ecotec specifically?
Very cool test, I remember reading about stuff like this from the 60s where they would dyno one engine running off a SC that was powered by another one.
That blower is cute! Don't quite have a project small enough for something like that but it looks like it'd be great for something like a motorcycle, my Cruze 1.4L or a Sprint 3 cylinder.
I think some engines that run on poor mixture, I think some skyactiv engine, use the blower to reduce/regulate the air flow and keep the engine in the sweet spot for fuel economy. Cool test.
as for the curve flattening out at the top (18k rpm) my uneducated guess would be given the size of the rotors in that little guy is that the vacuum on the intake side is so strong that it is not pulling more air in anymore effectively. its just stretching air the same way a engine does on the intake side. not belt slippage
With your inlet wide open, it’s going to take much more HP to spin it, the smaller inlet will require much less hp, Steve Morris did a good test for that..
Before modifying to a toothed belt try modifying the bracket to adapt two pulleys within the belt route one just above the super charger pulley and one just below the supercharger pulley and route the belt through make sure the fit is real tight between the two pulleys, this will ensure the highest contact patch the ribbed belt has around the supercharger pulley itself this will also nearly eliminate pulley slippage at high revs due to the belt loosing grip as the slack end of the belt.
Maybe the higher velocity through the modified in/out created some sort of venturi effect across the port going to the boost sensor giving you a false pressure reading? Also it's hard to be sure but it looks like your bigger inlet has the sides of the square maybe protruding out into the round tube... if that is the case maybe you could get a tad more airflow by either disassembling it and grinding those out or else maybe shape one end of the round tube into a square to match the actual opening a bit better like a round to square transition then weld it to a square hole in the plate. I had no idea these things existed till you posted this and man they are cheap, now I got to figure out how to build something with one.
More airflow = Less restriction. you get the same result "Porting" (Open up the outlet triangle to the edges of the silencer holes) a Eaton M90 blower or even a MN112 Boost goes down, outlet air temp goes down and WHP goes up. I don't know if the inlet matters as much as the outlet.
If you open the inlet up on a PD blower-boost goes up and airflow goes up and power goes up (usually)
The boost was lower due to the lower temperature. At least 1/2 of your boost was the increased air temperature. Your intakes increased the efficiency of the blower. This lowered the air temperature at the same flow rate. This lowered the boost pressure even though you are moving more air.
Pretty well this. It's like going to a bigger turbo. Less boost but more flow.
Add some stripes to your drive belt and use an optical tachometer to measure the belt speed. If you plot it vs engine RPM you'll see if the belt slips or not--the engine RPM and belt speed will be linear when not slipping.
Won't detect slippage at the blower..
Just tacho the blower pulley. Should be linear in relation to RPM if not slipping . This method will detect slip at both pullys👍
The smaller outlet would restrict it more I bet if you put big inlet with stock outlet boast would go up in my opinion
My best guess as to why boost decreased would be turbulence caused. The smaller outlet is closer to the size of the restrictor creating less turbulence on outflow. The larger outlet not only is the air restricted but it's more back pressure against the blower
Listen to those beautiful noises! I now name it
The ASMR 500
I see what you did there. 😁😁😁
You should test this on various combinations. A ford 300 i6, a 4 cylinder of some sort, obviously the LS.
Im thinking we can see why he chose to measure its output instead of risking perfectly good LS .Your idea makes sense
The AMR500 blower could about perfect fitted to a 350 to 500 CC 4-stroke motorcycle engine!
Kei car too (660 cc max).
That's exactly what I plan on doing! I have a Honda gx500 twin that I'm putting in a drag lawn tractor and I plan on using this setup to feed it
except that it takes roughly half that engines expected output to power it...
I think the lower temp made up for the horsepower that would have been lost from the lower amount of boost lower temperature air is more dense which means more horsepower
Getting the tensioner closer to the blower pulley to increase ‘belt wrap’ is ideal.
Maybe blow it into the throttle body and take real world data…..
150-HP BLOWER INTO A 440-HP MOTOR ISN'T REAL WORLD DATA-BUT THE AIRFLOW GENERATED BY USING THE V8 TO SPIN THE MAR500 IS
I think you were getting more airflow with less boost pressure on the improved intake due to it running more efficiently.
Perhaps because the stock inlet was a restriction, causing you too superheat the air, or perhaps due to shape of the inlet (curves instead of right angle edges etc).
Good answer. What about increased or decreased velocity due to the smaller/larger openings? Would it be better to run 1&1? One stock, one larger?
Exactly boost is a number relative to restriction. You can run the same setup on a stock engine and get higher boost, but once you increase the engines flow the boost will decrease, but flow will increase. Boost is a relative factor not an absolute number.
You used a longer, ribbed hose for the stock outlet, and a shorter, smooth, and curved hose for the super richie outlet. The longer length and more turbulent flow from the ribs might be the reason for the higher boost. While the Super Richie outlet you have a more "laminar" like flow, less restriction, more CFM, = less pressure/boost at the sensor.
Love to see the blower content! You should revisit the m90 blower, maybe on a smaller motor like a Honda k series or j series.
One outlet hose was smooth the other was ribbed. Not sure if that matters but it's a difference.
I wonder if you had switched it back to the original smaller inlet and outlets if it would go back to making the same boost. The Amr500 is only rated at 16k rpm so spinning it to 18k might have caused some extra wear and opened up clearances giving less boost.
I think the blower overheats at high speed, it causes all sorts of extra friction and would eventually show as belt slippage. I doubt you can just keep spinning the little guy forever, something eventually has to give.
As to the increased flow causing less boost, my guess is the extra airflow increasing velocity and then pressure drop over your map sensor. That, and it seems the outlet would be much cooler with the extra airflow. I'd be interested in retesting with an "intake manifold" with much more volume.
Dude ,you’re a total stud, I love your attention to detail.
Uhh... 😅
Richard this is Richard. If you have back pressure you'll build boost like you said. Bigger opening less boost no restriction.
back pressure on the blower?
@@richardholdener1727 Yes sir.
Was curious about these blowers. They look like the units in small sewer treatment plants. It would be nice to see what it does with a stock subaru 2.0 or 2.5.
If it possbile to put this on 2.5l, i will do this 👍
So…
Will The AMR 500 Works With My Kia Rio 2003…?
And The Car Have 1.3L Stock Engine… (Unknown HP)
Because I Found Out This Is Only The Cheapest Supercharger I Found On The Internet… I Wanted To Put Into My Kia Rio…Will It Work…?
it will support 150 hp
@@richardholdener1727 oh…ok…it will works and it will make it till 150HP…is it correct…?
And did i have to change the supercharger hole size…?
And I Found One In Carousell Malaysia…
It Was RM 300 ($63.33)…
I Don’t Know It Was OEM Or Not :/
More flow through a bigger opening is going to give you less pressure…
Supercharged 3800 guys learned long ago better flow = less boost. But it lowers intake temps and allows for a pulley change to make more power without spark knock.
Put a predator engine on the dyno...😂
Amazing work on this! Some things I noticed:
Early pulls show the blower belt with alignment wear as evidenced by the white threaded material showing on the edge of the belt 5:53.
The blower mounting bracket is being flexed forward under load which you can clearly see at 8:40 if you watch the blower in relation to the engine, letting the blower belt walk on the crank pulley.
The belt looks like it rode up onto the outer lip of the crank pulley probably causing slippage (watch the engine crank pulley where the electrical cord in the floor is) you can see the belt was still on the outer lip of the crank pulley when you shut it down.
Can't wait for the next video!!
no on the belt slippage caused by deflection. The belt walk was caused by simple misalignment after installation of the new inlet and outlets. I didn't align the belt before tightening the blower in place like I did when it was first assembled
What if you put an optical tachometer on the blower pulley? It sounds like its slipping to me. The flow is surprising but so is the horsepower needed to spin it. I'm thinking it would take a 60hp motor to around 100hp on 8-10psi with good charge cooling.
no on the 60-100 hp drive loss
My question is who's motorcycle or lawn tractor is it going on. I can't support much displacement with such low airflow.
The bigger inlet allowed more turbulence on top of the blower where it’s picked up. The bigger inlet can make more flow with the bigger inlet but when you restrict to add boost it creates the turbulence which equates to less boost. You basically reached the max boost capacity of the the case. Just my hypothesis. Edit: you may be able to fix the turbulence and keep the bigger inlet by shaping the inlet slightly to keep the over all diameter but allow for less turbulence. Maybe 😂
The bigger hole was met with a ridge.
The Boost lost with bigger intake was not for the reason you would suspect. It was because the blower was able to move more air that increased load on a belt pulley system that was already at 100%. Any further increases in load resulted in significantly higher slip ratio and net loss. With a cog drive or a 10 rib belt you would have seen an increase in Boost.
nope-or we would have seen a sharp drop in airflow
Great work Richard. Man, I love watching you do stuff hot rod guys like me have always wanted to do.
Then do it!! Let those hot rodding dreams run wild 👍
My thought on the difference between flow and boost between inlet and outlet types, making less boost with more flow is that higher flow velocity is naturally lower pressure. So the higher flow number was stacking up less boost - still better for the engine. Steve Brule explains it on Engine Masters better than I can.
My estimate is that feeding that 5psi of boost through that engine would make another 132hp(ish) - more than making up for the power draw of the blower
Passing the point of diminishing returns maybe with the drop In boost? I'll give it one thing, it sounds damn good. Richard, now you need to hook it up to the engine so we can see how it becomes a restriction 😆
150-hp blower on a 440-hp motor
@@richardholdener1727 On the omni?
I wonder what it would do on a slant six?
@@richardholdener1727
@@dazaspcI think this might be the blower that "redbeards garage " UA-cam channel put on his predator drag race engine.
Air flow and air pressure are inversely related. Adding better flowing inlet/outlets reduces inherent restriction. This increases air flow (cfm) while simultaneously reducing pressure (psi) which is just a measurement of restriction.
Air temp is the reason for the boost difference, the smaller adaptors restricted airflow, it created a much hotter discharge temp so the air mass expanded more and that registered a higher pressure measurement.
Pressure increases with restriction. Lower the restriction and you lower the boost.
they work for air cooled vws
The higher boost pressure on the restricted nozzle is just from heating (inefficiency). The high flow nozzles are less restrictive and result in less heating of the intake charge, thus lower indicated boost.
I think the blower lobes are actually separating. I don’t think the housing or the gaps inside the housing between the lobes are holding any more pressure.
not at 5 psi
@@richardholdener1727 then I guess maybe it’s some sort of cavitation issue turbulent air flow through the housing in and around the lobes, the reason I’m saying that as I think the rpm of the rotors is such that it should be creating more than that. She sounds like she’s really screaming and to only make 5 pounds of pressure seems off. But I’m not really a blower guy. I don’t know much more than the basics. But it does remind me of the blowers from the 30s in the 40s. They also made a lot of noise but didn’t create a whole Lotta pressure.
@@ajjskins This thing sounds like an air raid or nuke alert siren
Bernoulli's Principle states that as the speed of a moving fluid increases, the pressure within the fluid decreases. The Bernoulli's Principle explains the behavior of an ideal fluid passing through a pipe or enclosed passageway such a pump.
Air speed. Faster air = lower pressure. Bernoulli’s principle. I also think I could hear belt slip on every run except the big inlet and outlet unrestricted. Always enjoy your videos, love to see people passionate about the science behind engines.
Yeah if you listen carefully you can hear the rpm’s on the blower kinda hang while the ls keep going up in rpm definitely a little belt slippage up at 10,000 or so blower rpm I think was also wondering about the accuracy of the pressure readings from airflow across the orifice of the pressure sensor I definitely think 250 cfm is possible with housing porting and maybe water cooling the housing along with an air to water intercooler the gear drive alone probably makes enough heat to increase air temps
I may be wrong here...but off the top of my head - air being a fluid built up the same PSI (pressure) however requiring higher engine revs to compress that volume to the same PSI. I believe if you overlay the oem fitting with the super fittings...you'll see the net performance of the blower was nearly the same. However, using the large less-restricted ports, you achieved higher CFM, and also lower charge air temp (higher air density)...so the 'super' ports should make higher overall boosted engine horsepower (assuming the ECM adds additional fuel). Richard....am I wrong ? Great stuff here...thanks !
the net performance was not the same
Still think you should stick it on a 4cyl 2.3l engine
If its work, put this on my car 😂
Could the high temps cause the “more boost” with the smaller inlets???
With the large out let probably the reason it didnt build as much boost… i bet if you mix and match, super richy inlet/stock outlet would probably pick up your boost
I agree, it is like running a intercooler with too high of a volume. Keep compressor side runs low in air volume for good snappy boost...
nope
air bypassing the rotor tips, leakage, inefficiency, that's how you check pump efficiency, flow open and flow at pressure. also as the case heats up more leak.
I'm sure there was some belt slippage. Also, it may have been outside its efficiency island. That said, it made some nice noises. 😎
Boost dropped with the bigger outlet because all restrictions are additive. Even though you used the same "restrictor" to make boost, the total restriction is less with the bigger outlet, therefore lower boost pressure.
So, my question is how MANY AMR500 blowers can you fit on a single engine?
/s
THose look like a portable air compressor youd plug into the cig lighter.
Put an optical tachometer on the compressor pulley to detect if slippage is occuring. Rpm curve will not be linear if slippage occurs.
"Do you think it was slipping?" Gee, I wonder how it wandered between crank pulley grooves.....
I think the reason the boost went down with the bigger inlet and outlet is because the smaller outlet was an additional restriction. When it went away the boost dropped. The boost droppinig off at the top looks like choked inlet flow.
I'm building a Porsche 912. Still at the walking around it and starring stage. An AMR500 is on my list of possibilities. This info is going to help a lot.
Mitsu TD04 , AR gt 25,28 cheap reliable and easier to plumb
Don't.
@@eflanagan1921 Don't want a turbo.
@@Marc_Wolfe Why not?
Bigger. Maybe an M90.
The boost pressure is lower on the higher inlet/outlet dimensions because of ideal gas law. The air is cooler, therefore more dense. I am too lazy to do the math here, but the mass air flow can be back calculated from pressure and temperature. Everything makes perfect sense here.
Now you need a 3 cyl Geo Metro engine to put it on!
good choice
@@richardholdener1727 Honda D or B series, although B series VTEC might create an issue with the extra airflow when VTEC hits. Even with an Eaton M90 on a GSR motor, the boost dropped 3 psi at VTEC crossover.
@@richardholdener1727 so this thing put out the equivalent of say a china intake port for a sbc head?
If the outlet air is increasing in temp, it is coming out less dense and therefore would produce less boost and power due to the heat expansion. The high air speed, due to parasitic drag, heats up much more than a larger inlet and slower airflow would. That’s what’s my guess would be.
Spend $35 more and get a gt45 turbo that actually work
Not a blower though, I don't know why we don't see Chinese universal superchargers
@@mackenziehutchison4838probably more expensive to produce while not being very profitable
@@mackenziehutchison4838Chinesium powdered metal
@@mackenziehutchison4838because turbo tolerances can be forgiving while with the rotors of a supercharger they need to be precise.
@@Joebauers2505 idk how true that is they've been making superchargers since the 1800s before turbos where practical to make. My thought was more cars can run turbos like i4 then a a big screw blower so they make turbos.
So here’s the real question how many of these do we need to actually increase power output seems like 3-4 would be about the same as a real v8 supercharger but have 3-4x more gear drives
Looks like need 4 of those cute blowers 😄
My guess to the higher boost pressure with the stock plastic in/ex is the hose used! Looked like flexible radiator hose.
Long ribbed hose would be a lot more turbulent and restrict flow downstream more than the smooth silicone elbow.
Boost is a measurement of restriction.
I love this... like really LOVE THIS!!!!!
I’d assume that since the air has less restriction leaving the blower and not staying in the blower, the air stays cooler so boost goes down as air flow goes up since heat is going down, so the air is taking up less space. Boost is always higher on the hot side of the inner cooler.
When i first heard you start the ls with the blower on it, i thought you were just yelling "yaaaaaaaaaaa" for a long time 😂
I was
I firmly believe boost numbers are simply restriction numbers. The reason the boost number went down even though the flow increased proves that. Higher boost numbers are simply signs of restriction, improve the flow and the CFM will increase but the boost pressure decreases. It's like trying to blow through a straw vs a 1 inch pipe, you'll move more air with less restrictions.
Now take the next step and dramatically increase the flow through the smaller straw (the restrictor), with more flow and the same straw-why was there not more boost
You could probably fit one or two more blowers on that bracket!!
Blower green belt. That angle iron may be flexing just a bit too. Weld in a reinforcement brace on the bottom just below the blower might help.
That cute little thing could be cool if made to work on something like a motorcycle engine.
I'd like to see it hooked up before anything is done to it. I have ideas about the boost discrepancy, but believe I'll keep that to myself because I'm probably incorrect.
Richard thanks for and this and the icing on the cake is you sending it to Kenny Bell wow super cool A+ 10 and a gold star 🤠.Twin AFR-500`S on the Trophy 4 banger would look cool
Hot air expands, with the hotter air created by the stock inlet/outlets, there is more airflow in the outlet pipe to give you higher boost but that air is less dense. If you measured the airflow after the blower this would have shown this
The lower boost setup has a lot denser air, therefore more oxygen, and could produce more power.
Would have been nice to see it hooked up to the engine to see the HP draw vs any gains using such a small blower on a big displacement engine
150-hp blower on a 440-hp motor doesn't work
then why run it with a LS???
@@richardholdener1727 I know this I was just curious on the effects it would have had on that engine
What if you ran two of them?
the LS was only used to spin the blower to test airflow, temp and the power required to drive the blower so we now know what kind of motor we should run it on-once again, a 150-hp blower does not ADD power to a 440-hp na motor
Can we please get the raw data? CSV is fine.
The lower pressure is because of the lower temp we left air density out of our calculations. Remember... (Presure*Volume)/Temperature
The gold you have given us here is the ability to calculate air-mass/hp this is awesome! Steve Morris was talking about feeding one turbo with the exhaust from a motor on a different dyno (he has 2 side by side)
The pump will have a max pressure design, and then if the output
the lower temp is because the lower pressure...now figure out why the pressure is lower
@@richardholdener1727 because it's always moving the same volume of air with each rotation. If there is resistance to the flow either the pressure or the temperature must increase. Since what we want is a higher volume of air in the cylinder with the fuel, we really don't care about "boost" :-) not if we call PSI boost. Boost really should be PSI/temp.
Two experiments I would love to see you run that would prove this.
Does putting two AMR 500s in series produce more PSI than a single? I don't think it will because they are both moving the same volume of air.
2nd Most of us think pressure is what overcomes poor head flow. If a supercharger moves the same volume of air with each rotation. Is it better to have cooler lower pressure or higher PSI and higher Temp? Not sure how you would set that test up.
What is this blower used for in the real world?
Kabota tractors! And a lot of small displacement engines in China!
What displacement Honda VTEC 4 cylinder would be the best match for this blower assuming the goal was street driven, for max torque not HP, 2,200lb, 6,500rpm, and pump gas?
only a vtec single cam would not make too much na hp for this blower
I’m only about an hour from you. I need help just getting my turbo to line up. 😂
WOW...this is probably your best work as an automotive journalist.
thnx-I now have the data from the blower dyno too
@@richardholdener1727 OMG I think I'm going to pass out.