I ran an AMR300 supercharger on a fuel injected 420 cc single cylinder Harbor Freight engine with a 1:1 drive ratio. As I recall we got 8 PSi of boost. The 13 hp engine was also ran with the induction pipes disconnected so the blower didn't produce any boost and the little engine had no problem spinning the supercharger up to redline. We discovered a few issues with this type of supercharger, first one was the gear drive inside the supercharger develops a lot of heat and we were able to wick away some of the heat with a water cooled heat sink from a PC. The second issue is the supercharger cannot tolerate any vacuum or negative pressure... like when the engine is at idle. If there is any vacuum, the oil from the gear drive will get past the seals and be consumed by the engine and the gear drive will be sucked dry in a few hours... the solution is to use a bypass or double throttle bodies.
Bypass valve works really well from what I understand. that’s the way they do it on the old 3800 sc v6. It’s just a necessary edition for idle quality and in this case blower function
Thanks for sharing. Given that info my small brain can’t comprehend how it could rob approximately 28hp according to the dyno results. The math isn’t working. Lol
Yeah man love your content you're so awesome I'm trying to learn how to walk like you and talk like you and sound like you I dreamed about your content last night because you're and your content are so awesome I'm leaving my family for more yt content and stuff.. lol
Air pressure increases about 2% for every 10°f which could explain why the stock fittings produced more boost. Although the higher boost wouldn't produce more power because the mass flow is lower.
This is exactly my thoughts. The factory outlet is a restriction and the increased temperature will raise boost while it depletes air density causing a negative airflow measurement overall. I'm now thinking about putting one of these on a jeep 4.0
Just an idea, you can pretty easily put an optical RPM meter on the blower pulley and compare the RPM ratio between it and the engine to detect slip without needing to go through the change to cog to rule it out.
Is it possible that when you run the factory plastic fittings and produce higher discharge temperatures, thus expanding the air so much that it produces more boost than with the larger Richie fittings that produce lower discharge temperatures
@@Bill-flatplanefool1/3 of a 1970' sbc 350 so about 50-60ish tire. Based on cfm carb size guess. If rich had given us a lb/min there would be no room to gess. 1lb/min =10crank and 7wheel hp. Ther was no mention of DA so no start point for math to build a lb/min equation.
@@blow0me Drawing a line with a paint pen and using an laser reader that doesn't care about distance is a little easier than adding a tooth and dealing hall sensor alignment.
The reason you are measuring less pressure with the larger inlets is related to the venturi effect. Although you are pushing more air through the supercharger, you are still using the same funnel where the air intake is and the same restrictor on the exit. The venturi effect is that the pressure decreases as velocity increases. You are flowing more air through the same diameter reductions, and the air pressure at the inlet of the funnel is the same, and the measurement point is the same, so more velocity = lower pressure. If you want a better way to measure it, you should measure the pressure at the entrance to the supercharger (which should be a vacuum at that point) and measure the pressure in your discharge pipe and subtract the two. This will give you the pressure produced by the supercharger only, neglecting the pressure change from the funnel on the input causing the venturi effect.
Boost was higher with the smaller inlet because it was heated more. Going to take your numbers later and generate a lb/min flow rate graph. Thank you for the great work and wonderful data!
@@woodzyfox4735 It was said multiple times in the video that the AMR500 wasn't connected to the motor for an intake, the motor is only there to run the blower.
I ran one of these on my sweep the floor vw engine and boy did it wake it up! Even at 4 psi it was a huge power increase out of the 1641cc engine. The amr500 is probably the best hp for the money for a vw as long as you can make your own intake adapters like I did although there are a few companies that sell intake kits for these to bolt onto a vw. I've got a few videos of that engine on my channel if you'd like to take a look
@@V8N8T To be honest I wouldn't even know where to start. I'm very new to all of this. About 2 months ago I seen this late 60s/early 70s beetle in amazing condition just sitting in this junkyard out in the woods and I'm gonna try to get it from the landlord. Since then I've been basically studying air-cooled vw beetles, it's been a bit of an obsession lately
@johnraitt2555 that's awesome hopefully you can get it. Vw's are a very basic machine and pretty easy to work on. I'd suggest after you get it go thru the brakes, get the engine running well and the rest of the car sorted out. They are a mechanical car and require maintenance like valve adjustment and brake adjustment from time to time and they are old so parts will need to be replaced here and there. If you have a local vw specialist have them look the car over before you buy it to see how much work it will need
@@V8N8T From my understanding it was restored by somebody local about 4 years ago and when the man passed away there was no surviving family members so it's been sitting ever since. The motor has been wrapped in a tarp, I haven't gotten a good look at it yet. But if it's in as good of a condition as the rest of the beetle seems to be there may not be too much to work on. I do appreciate your kind words, fam
You need to put it on the Pontiac 4 cyl. Also, did you retest the output in the first configuration to make sure to it hadn't warn which would have reduced it's efficiency?
People still think about this wrong all the time. Only thing that matters is mass airflow. Grams per second. Speaking about it in any other way simply muddies the conversation.
8:43 You can see the entire blower housing drop causing the belt to 🛫the lower 🪀. Match the video-time with the state of RPM(appoximatudenly). Unless of course you already noticed the same un-missable issue I did as well.
Pretty sure you can see the belt slippage in the video, up in the higher rpm range... seems obvious... seemed obvious before you were even mentioning the possibility. Also, the boost leak is probably at the super Richie inlet and outlet... outlet mostly .. but both seem to have the same issue. They aren't fully welded, they overlap the square inlet and outlet face, and don't seem to have any additional gasket to seal them... so, the metal on metal alone would lose something, but then the lack of a full weld around the collars is another big source for air to escape. Fix those two issues, and the boost would probably go up a good bit.
If Gale Banks taught me anything, it's that the boost pressure is probably lower on the higher flow run as a function of air density. Maybe since the blower could breath easier, in and out, it was able to compress the air more efficiently.
as for the curve flattening out at the top (18k rpm) my uneducated guess would be given the size of the rotors in that little guy is that the vacuum on the intake side is so strong that it is not pulling more air in anymore effectively. its just stretching air the same way a engine does on the intake side. not belt slippage
More airflow = Less restriction. you get the same result "Porting" (Open up the outlet triangle to the edges of the silencer holes) a Eaton M90 blower or even a MN112 Boost goes down, outlet air temp goes down and WHP goes up. I don't know if the inlet matters as much as the outlet.
I think some engines that run on poor mixture, I think some skyactiv engine, use the blower to reduce/regulate the air flow and keep the engine in the sweet spot for fuel economy. Cool test.
Very cool test, I remember reading about stuff like this from the 60s where they would dyno one engine running off a SC that was powered by another one. That blower is cute! Don't quite have a project small enough for something like that but it looks like it'd be great for something like a motorcycle, my Cruze 1.4L or a Sprint 3 cylinder.
Looking at the higher boost on stock inlet/outlets, I wonder how much extra length and turbulence from a radiator hose that wasn’t smooth on the inside caused?
Very cool data! I think the next step would be to add a MAF sensor in your inlet as well as data for the ambient air parameters such that you can account for air density and measure flow in lbs/min like superchargers and turbos typically are. That will be much more able to be correlated to a HP number. Interesting to see pressure drop after the mods, my thought is that IAT being less means the SC is more efficient, and so is pumping larger mass of air through lower pressure due to improved density. You should get one of those banks gauges, his shit is really dialed in on this whole air density situation.
He has everything for DA in and out, pressure and temperature + the bid blue measuring device should have the amibiant data . Just didn't present the nessasary numbers to pull out more practical data like lb/min.
What if you put an optical tachometer on the blower pulley? It sounds like its slipping to me. The flow is surprising but so is the horsepower needed to spin it. I'm thinking it would take a 60hp motor to around 100hp on 8-10psi with good charge cooling.
With your inlet wide open, it’s going to take much more HP to spin it, the smaller inlet will require much less hp, Steve Morris did a good test for that..
What displacement Honda VTEC 4 cylinder would be the best match for this blower assuming the goal was street driven, for max torque not HP, 2,200lb, 6,500rpm, and pump gas?
Was curious about these blowers. They look like the units in small sewer treatment plants. It would be nice to see what it does with a stock subaru 2.0 or 2.5.
Richard thanks for and this and the icing on the cake is you sending it to Kenny Bell wow super cool A+ 10 and a gold star 🤠.Twin AFR-500`S on the Trophy 4 banger would look cool
Have to remember: Your boost pump has same characteristics as wings. Similar restrictions for speed and pressure envelopes as wings. In other words, the compressor can only be spun so fast, and produce so much pressure within a fixed range, or "optimal range". Below and above that speed and pressure, you will see reduced output. OR, as someone else put it, more money = better boost (usually) ;)
Add some stripes to your drive belt and use an optical tachometer to measure the belt speed. If you plot it vs engine RPM you'll see if the belt slips or not--the engine RPM and belt speed will be linear when not slipping.
Maybe the higher velocity through the modified in/out created some sort of venturi effect across the port going to the boost sensor giving you a false pressure reading? Also it's hard to be sure but it looks like your bigger inlet has the sides of the square maybe protruding out into the round tube... if that is the case maybe you could get a tad more airflow by either disassembling it and grinding those out or else maybe shape one end of the round tube into a square to match the actual opening a bit better like a round to square transition then weld it to a square hole in the plate. I had no idea these things existed till you posted this and man they are cheap, now I got to figure out how to build something with one.
I think you were getting more airflow with less boost pressure on the improved intake due to it running more efficiently. Perhaps because the stock inlet was a restriction, causing you too superheat the air, or perhaps due to shape of the inlet (curves instead of right angle edges etc).
Exactly boost is a number relative to restriction. You can run the same setup on a stock engine and get higher boost, but once you increase the engines flow the boost will decrease, but flow will increase. Boost is a relative factor not an absolute number.
Before modifying to a toothed belt try modifying the bracket to adapt two pulleys within the belt route one just above the super charger pulley and one just below the supercharger pulley and route the belt through make sure the fit is real tight between the two pulleys, this will ensure the highest contact patch the ribbed belt has around the supercharger pulley itself this will also nearly eliminate pulley slippage at high revs due to the belt loosing grip as the slack end of the belt.
The neck created to allow more airflow has restrictions from the Procharger itself. The air is meeting a flat surface, make a conical inlet and should in theory flow better. I do believe it has belt slippage as well.
I wonder if you had switched it back to the original smaller inlet and outlets if it would go back to making the same boost. The Amr500 is only rated at 16k rpm so spinning it to 18k might have caused some extra wear and opened up clearances giving less boost.
I think the lower temp made up for the horsepower that would have been lost from the lower amount of boost lower temperature air is more dense which means more horsepower
air bypassing the rotor tips, leakage, inefficiency, that's how you check pump efficiency, flow open and flow at pressure. also as the case heats up more leak.
The boost was lower due to the lower temperature. At least 1/2 of your boost was the increased air temperature. Your intakes increased the efficiency of the blower. This lowered the air temperature at the same flow rate. This lowered the boost pressure even though you are moving more air.
@@Joebauers2505 idk how true that is they've been making superchargers since the 1800s before turbos where practical to make. My thought was more cars can run turbos like i4 then a a big screw blower so they make turbos.
My best guess as to why boost decreased would be turbulence caused. The smaller outlet is closer to the size of the restrictor creating less turbulence on outflow. The larger outlet not only is the air restricted but it's more back pressure against the blower
Not sure if what I am seeing is correct, but at 8:43 of this video, it looks like the belt is jumping on the crank pulley. That is probably why the results are showing a bit of belt slippage.
My guess to the higher boost pressure with the stock plastic in/ex is the hose used! Looked like flexible radiator hose. Long ribbed hose would be a lot more turbulent and restrict flow downstream more than the smooth silicone elbow. Boost is a measurement of restriction.
Awesome content! I would love to see you do this with a 6-71, with a restriction of say, 8 lbs boost by 6000rpm. So many of us street guys run these, would be amazing to see real world numbers on the horsepower draw. Thanks for all your amazing hot rod science!!
Well, I would not run that on a small block. Because it'd be very restrictive, the only way. If you must use that super charger, you'd have to get it all the way up to A 10:1 ratio on the belt or higher to before even starts to keep up with the air flow demand of the engine. Hence the reason why they ran a 671 super charger on small block engines. Now a small block, Chevrolet with a 671 at 6000 rpm. Aking APS I that's not correct either a you got a lot of bypass Or belt slippage of some kind or the incorrect belt ratio. If you look on wield superchargers chart states 350 with 6/71 at 1:1 make 31psi .
You used a longer, ribbed hose for the stock outlet, and a shorter, smooth, and curved hose for the super richie outlet. The longer length and more turbulent flow from the ribs might be the reason for the higher boost. While the Super Richie outlet you have a more "laminar" like flow, less restriction, more CFM, = less pressure/boost at the sensor.
I'm building a Porsche 912. Still at the walking around it and starring stage. An AMR500 is on my list of possibilities. This info is going to help a lot.
Supercharged 3800 guys learned long ago better flow = less boost. But it lowers intake temps and allows for a pulley change to make more power without spark knock.
@@richardholdener1727 Honda D or B series, although B series VTEC might create an issue with the extra airflow when VTEC hits. Even with an Eaton M90 on a GSR motor, the boost dropped 3 psi at VTEC crossover.
The higher boost pressure on the restricted nozzle is just from heating (inefficiency). The high flow nozzles are less restrictive and result in less heating of the intake charge, thus lower indicated boost.
Air flow and air pressure are inversely related. Adding better flowing inlet/outlets reduces inherent restriction. This increases air flow (cfm) while simultaneously reducing pressure (psi) which is just a measurement of restriction.
I wonder if the boost taper at the top of the first round with the blower not feeding the engine is the result of the airflow cavitating at the inlet to the blower.
I think the blower lobes are actually separating. I don’t think the housing or the gaps inside the housing between the lobes are holding any more pressure.
@@richardholdener1727 then I guess maybe it’s some sort of cavitation issue turbulent air flow through the housing in and around the lobes, the reason I’m saying that as I think the rpm of the rotors is such that it should be creating more than that. She sounds like she’s really screaming and to only make 5 pounds of pressure seems off. But I’m not really a blower guy. I don’t know much more than the basics. But it does remind me of the blowers from the 30s in the 40s. They also made a lot of noise but didn’t create a whole Lotta pressure.
I have a AMR500 being slightly underdriven (1¾" drive 2"driven) on a 490cc b&s v-twin thru a custom hand made high flow intake manifold. Waiting on a shipping for a boost gage to confirm how much boost but its definitely getting boost.
Boost pressure is resistance of flow. You increase the flow with the same volume of air, pressure drops, but you are processing the same if not more air.
The Boost lost with bigger intake was not for the reason you would suspect. It was because the blower was able to move more air that increased load on a belt pulley system that was already at 100%. Any further increases in load resulted in significantly higher slip ratio and net loss. With a cog drive or a 10 rib belt you would have seen an increase in Boost.
Passing the point of diminishing returns maybe with the drop In boost? I'll give it one thing, it sounds damn good. Richard, now you need to hook it up to the engine so we can see how it becomes a restriction 😆
I think the blower overheats at high speed, it causes all sorts of extra friction and would eventually show as belt slippage. I doubt you can just keep spinning the little guy forever, something eventually has to give. As to the increased flow causing less boost, my guess is the extra airflow increasing velocity and then pressure drop over your map sensor. That, and it seems the outlet would be much cooler with the extra airflow. I'd be interested in retesting with an "intake manifold" with much more volume.
I’d assume that since the air has less restriction leaving the blower and not staying in the blower, the air stays cooler so boost goes down as air flow goes up since heat is going down, so the air is taking up less space. Boost is always higher on the hot side of the inner cooler.
Makes sense. If you free up the flow you're going to move more air at less boost. The limit of the charger will be CFM moreso than pressure but as pressure builds that cfm will naturally fall off since it can't be perfectly internally sealed. Calling them positive displacement is only true so far as machining tolerances - they aren't 100% PD. I'd take the free flow and lower pressure every time. Lower charge temps, same air flow and less stress.
@@richardholdener1727 I know. My point is they can't actually displace 100% of their capacity due to sealing limitations. You usually lose a little as pressure and flow increase.
The bigger inlet allowed more turbulence on top of the blower where it’s picked up. The bigger inlet can make more flow with the bigger inlet but when you restrict to add boost it creates the turbulence which equates to less boost. You basically reached the max boost capacity of the the case. Just my hypothesis. Edit: you may be able to fix the turbulence and keep the bigger inlet by shaping the inlet slightly to keep the over all diameter but allow for less turbulence. Maybe 😂
How many more pulls would it take before the belt jumped completely of the drive pulley? My guess would be to work on keeping the belt on the drive pulley and that should keep the belt from slipping.
the belt alignment was cured by simply adjusting the blower position relative to the mounting bracket-it was not an issue on the first 30 pulls-only after reinstalling it-needed to go through the belt alignment process
The boost pressure is lower on the higher inlet/outlet dimensions because of ideal gas law. The air is cooler, therefore more dense. I am too lazy to do the math here, but the mass air flow can be back calculated from pressure and temperature. Everything makes perfect sense here.
You could almost Hear friction. Like it was fighting the motor. With the size and the amount of air that ls uses. More inclined to believe that it’s too small and not putting enough air into the system for it to effect it substantially
the LS was only used to spin the blower to test airflow, temp and the power required to drive the blower so we now know what kind of motor we should run it on-once again, a 150-hp blower does not ADD power to a 440-hp na motor
Air speed. Faster air = lower pressure. Bernoulli’s principle. I also think I could hear belt slip on every run except the big inlet and outlet unrestricted. Always enjoy your videos, love to see people passionate about the science behind engines.
Yeah if you listen carefully you can hear the rpm’s on the blower kinda hang while the ls keep going up in rpm definitely a little belt slippage up at 10,000 or so blower rpm I think was also wondering about the accuracy of the pressure readings from airflow across the orifice of the pressure sensor I definitely think 250 cfm is possible with housing porting and maybe water cooling the housing along with an air to water intercooler the gear drive alone probably makes enough heat to increase air temps
Two different outlets, the one with less boost had more flex in the rubber causing a greater loss in boost. To solve this use ridged pipe while keeping the same volume.
Air temp is the reason for the boost difference, the smaller adaptors restricted airflow, it created a much hotter discharge temp so the air mass expanded more and that registered a higher pressure measurement.
I ran an AMR300 supercharger on a fuel injected 420 cc single cylinder Harbor Freight engine with a 1:1 drive ratio. As I recall we got 8 PSi of boost. The 13 hp engine was also ran with the induction pipes disconnected so the blower didn't produce any boost and the little engine had no problem spinning the supercharger up to redline. We discovered a few issues with this type of supercharger, first one was the gear drive inside the supercharger develops a lot of heat and we were able to wick away some of the heat with a water cooled heat sink from a PC. The second issue is the supercharger cannot tolerate any vacuum or negative pressure... like when the engine is at idle. If there is any vacuum, the oil from the gear drive will get past the seals and be consumed by the engine and the gear drive will be sucked dry in a few hours... the solution is to use a bypass or double throttle bodies.
Very nice to see you here RC!! Love* your content and I hope you decide to twin charge the 3 cyl diesel engine 📈
@@budyeddi5814 Twin charge is an option, we first want to try the supercharger and see what happens. should be interesting.
@@robotcantina8957 I'm here for it 📈
Bypass valve works really well from what I understand. that’s the way they do it on the old 3800 sc v6. It’s just a necessary edition for idle quality and in this case blower function
Thanks for sharing. Given that info my small brain can’t comprehend how it could rob approximately 28hp according to the dyno results. The math isn’t working. Lol
Legend has it, Richard never actually goes home. He just goes on to the next test.
Try bigger inlet with stock outlet then the swapping
That's gear head dedication.
He's living the dream
Il bet he has spent many a night there.
He seems like he was a teacher that realized V8 are better and ran with it
It blows my mind that this channel isn't massive yet. Been following for years, your content is awesome.
I appreciate that!
Yeah man love your content you're so awesome I'm trying to learn how to walk like you and talk like you and sound like you I dreamed about your content last night because you're and your content are so awesome I'm leaving my family for more yt content and stuff.. lol
@@billbonu1639 you found something on the Internet to shit on, welcome to step one of the Internet.
There always has to be some asshole with no life typing shit. It's just pathetic.
Air pressure increases about 2% for every 10°f which could explain why the stock fittings produced more boost. Although the higher boost wouldn't produce more power because the mass flow is lower.
Also there could have been a ton of turbulence coming out of the stock outlet which would reduce flow and increase pressure.
This is exactly my thoughts. The factory outlet is a restriction and the increased temperature will raise boost while it depletes air density causing a negative airflow measurement overall. I'm now thinking about putting one of these on a jeep 4.0
Curious was the pressure decreasing at 5252 rpm with the big manifolds? Another variable the cam duration. 🤔
it wasnt connected.. Also there ment for 1.5L or less motors..
Wow a got a slow tercel might good to adapt that and see what hapeens
Every sub 100hp engine needs two of these.
I was thinking of trying to install one on my 67 hp 4kc Toyota starlet motor
@@619omni itd probably work great
@@619omniat half bar you'd get 90hp with this thing
😄😆😅😂🤣👍
Thinking of putting this on a d16 from a 02 civic lx. Non vtec. Thought it might help get it above 100hp
Just an idea, you can pretty easily put an optical RPM meter on the blower pulley and compare the RPM ratio between it and the engine to detect slip without needing to go through the change to cog to rule it out.
What kind of power do you think that airflow would make .
Is it possible that when you run the factory plastic fittings and produce higher discharge temperatures, thus expanding the air so much that it produces more boost than with the larger Richie fittings that produce lower discharge temperatures
@@Bill-flatplanefool1/3 of a 1970' sbc 350 so about 50-60ish tire. Based on cfm carb size guess.
If rich had given us a lb/min there would be no room to gess. 1lb/min =10crank and 7wheel hp. Ther was no mention of DA so no start point for math to build a lb/min equation.
just as easy to add some ferrous metal for a tooth and point a hall sensor at it and datalog it on the ecu for comparison.
@@blow0me Drawing a line with a paint pen and using an laser reader that doesn't care about distance is a little easier than adding a tooth and dealing hall sensor alignment.
The reason you are measuring less pressure with the larger inlets is related to the venturi effect. Although you are pushing more air through the supercharger, you are still using the same funnel where the air intake is and the same restrictor on the exit. The venturi effect is that the pressure decreases as velocity increases. You are flowing more air through the same diameter reductions, and the air pressure at the inlet of the funnel is the same, and the measurement point is the same, so more velocity = lower pressure.
If you want a better way to measure it, you should measure the pressure at the entrance to the supercharger (which should be a vacuum at that point) and measure the pressure in your discharge pipe and subtract the two. This will give you the pressure produced by the supercharger only, neglecting the pressure change from the funnel on the input causing the venturi effect.
I came here to say the same. Coming from an aviation background, it was easy to understand what was happening here.
Boost was higher with the smaller inlet because it was heated more. Going to take your numbers later and generate a lb/min flow rate graph. Thank you for the great work and wonderful data!
Boost was higher with the smaller inlet because boost is a measurement of restriction.
Grams per second please.
@@Joebauers2505 inlet restriction would not affect boost. outlet restriction would.
@@Marc_Wolfehe lives in the US, find a converter calculator
@@shadowopsairman1583I think he is asking for mass per sec (lb/sec) not a unit conversation, or he would have asked for bar.
It is just amazing how much you produce interesting content and how much time and effort it must need to do that. Thank you for doing all this!
thnx
THIS IS A LIE!! DO NOT BUY THIS!! Tese are limited to no more then a engine with LESS THEN 1.5L
it wasnt connected..
@@woodzyfox4735 It was said multiple times in the video that the AMR500 wasn't connected to the motor for an intake, the motor is only there to run the blower.
@@woodzyfox4735;; ;;;
I ran one of these on my sweep the floor vw engine and boy did it wake it up! Even at 4 psi it was a huge power increase out of the 1641cc engine. The amr500 is probably the best hp for the money for a vw as long as you can make your own intake adapters like I did although there are a few companies that sell intake kits for these to bolt onto a vw. I've got a few videos of that engine on my channel if you'd like to take a look
I gotta know details on this. I'm looking into getting a vw beetle and that's something I'm interested in
@johnraitt2555 are you wanting to know more about the motor or supercharger setup
@@V8N8T To be honest I wouldn't even know where to start. I'm very new to all of this. About 2 months ago I seen this late 60s/early 70s beetle in amazing condition just sitting in this junkyard out in the woods and I'm gonna try to get it from the landlord. Since then I've been basically studying air-cooled vw beetles, it's been a bit of an obsession lately
@johnraitt2555 that's awesome hopefully you can get it. Vw's are a very basic machine and pretty easy to work on. I'd suggest after you get it go thru the brakes, get the engine running well and the rest of the car sorted out. They are a mechanical car and require maintenance like valve adjustment and brake adjustment from time to time and they are old so parts will need to be replaced here and there. If you have a local vw specialist have them look the car over before you buy it to see how much work it will need
@@V8N8T From my understanding it was restored by somebody local about 4 years ago and when the man passed away there was no surviving family members so it's been sitting ever since. The motor has been wrapped in a tarp, I haven't gotten a good look at it yet. But if it's in as good of a condition as the rest of the beetle seems to be there may not be too much to work on. I do appreciate your kind words, fam
You are getting a back wash in the supercharger,when you restrict air flow .this increase pressure and drop volume.
You need to put it on the Pontiac 4 cyl. Also, did you retest the output in the first configuration to make sure to it hadn't warn which would have reduced it's efficiency?
Ecotec or iron duke ?
And if ecotec what ecotec specifically?
Like gale banks says “air density” lower temp air and a little less boost can make more power. That is why the cfm increased
People still think about this wrong all the time. Only thing that matters is mass airflow. Grams per second.
Speaking about it in any other way simply muddies the conversation.
It even sounded better with the bigger inlet and outlet, and the charge temperatures show that it's just the right way to go.
8:43 You can see the entire blower housing drop causing the belt to 🛫the lower 🪀. Match the video-time with the state of RPM(appoximatudenly). Unless of course you already noticed the same un-missable issue I did as well.
belt misalignment
@@richardholdener1727 Likely, But that variable is "standard-issue" in prototyping-process!😁
Pretty sure you can see the belt slippage in the video, up in the higher rpm range... seems obvious... seemed obvious before you were even mentioning the possibility. Also, the boost leak is probably at the super Richie inlet and outlet... outlet mostly .. but both seem to have the same issue. They aren't fully welded, they overlap the square inlet and outlet face, and don't seem to have any additional gasket to seal them... so, the metal on metal alone would lose something, but then the lack of a full weld around the collars is another big source for air to escape. Fix those two issues, and the boost would probably go up a good bit.
If Gale Banks taught me anything, it's that the boost pressure is probably lower on the higher flow run as a function of air density. Maybe since the blower could breath easier, in and out, it was able to compress the air more efficiently.
as for the curve flattening out at the top (18k rpm) my uneducated guess would be given the size of the rotors in that little guy is that the vacuum on the intake side is so strong that it is not pulling more air in anymore effectively. its just stretching air the same way a engine does on the intake side. not belt slippage
More airflow = Less restriction. you get the same result "Porting" (Open up the outlet triangle to the edges of the silencer holes) a Eaton M90 blower or even a MN112 Boost goes down, outlet air temp goes down and WHP goes up. I don't know if the inlet matters as much as the outlet.
If you open the inlet up on a PD blower-boost goes up and airflow goes up and power goes up (usually)
I think some engines that run on poor mixture, I think some skyactiv engine, use the blower to reduce/regulate the air flow and keep the engine in the sweet spot for fuel economy. Cool test.
Listen to those beautiful noises! I now name it
The ASMR 500
I see what you did there. 😁😁😁
Is there an update to this video? I want to know what kind of power these things actually produce.
Very cool test, I remember reading about stuff like this from the 60s where they would dyno one engine running off a SC that was powered by another one.
That blower is cute! Don't quite have a project small enough for something like that but it looks like it'd be great for something like a motorcycle, my Cruze 1.4L or a Sprint 3 cylinder.
Richard this is Richard. If you have back pressure you'll build boost like you said. Bigger opening less boost no restriction.
back pressure on the blower?
@@richardholdener1727 Yes sir.
Love to see the blower content! You should revisit the m90 blower, maybe on a smaller motor like a Honda k series or j series.
Looking at the higher boost on stock inlet/outlets, I wonder how much extra length and turbulence from a radiator hose that wasn’t smooth on the inside caused?
Very cool data! I think the next step would be to add a MAF sensor in your inlet as well as data for the ambient air parameters such that you can account for air density and measure flow in lbs/min like superchargers and turbos typically are. That will be much more able to be correlated to a HP number. Interesting to see pressure drop after the mods, my thought is that IAT being less means the SC is more efficient, and so is pumping larger mass of air through lower pressure due to improved density. You should get one of those banks gauges, his shit is really dialed in on this whole air density situation.
He has everything for DA in and out, pressure and temperature + the bid blue measuring device should have the amibiant data . Just didn't present the nessasary numbers to pull out more practical data like lb/min.
This guy already trying to write a fuel map for it...
What if you put an optical tachometer on the blower pulley? It sounds like its slipping to me. The flow is surprising but so is the horsepower needed to spin it. I'm thinking it would take a 60hp motor to around 100hp on 8-10psi with good charge cooling.
no on the 60-100 hp drive loss
With your inlet wide open, it’s going to take much more HP to spin it, the smaller inlet will require much less hp, Steve Morris did a good test for that..
they work for air cooled vws
Dude ,you’re a total stud, I love your attention to detail.
Uhh... 😅
What displacement Honda VTEC 4 cylinder would be the best match for this blower assuming the goal was street driven, for max torque not HP, 2,200lb, 6,500rpm, and pump gas?
only a vtec single cam would not make too much na hp for this blower
Was curious about these blowers. They look like the units in small sewer treatment plants. It would be nice to see what it does with a stock subaru 2.0 or 2.5.
If it possbile to put this on 2.5l, i will do this 👍
Richard thanks for and this and the icing on the cake is you sending it to Kenny Bell wow super cool A+ 10 and a gold star 🤠.Twin AFR-500`S on the Trophy 4 banger would look cool
Have to remember: Your boost pump has same characteristics as wings. Similar restrictions for speed and pressure envelopes as wings.
In other words, the compressor can only be spun so fast, and produce so much pressure within a fixed range, or "optimal range". Below and above that speed and pressure, you will see reduced output.
OR, as someone else put it, more money = better boost (usually) ;)
good point. Propeller tips when they go supersonic do some inefficient things.
The smaller outlet would restrict it more I bet if you put big inlet with stock outlet boast would go up in my opinion
Add some stripes to your drive belt and use an optical tachometer to measure the belt speed. If you plot it vs engine RPM you'll see if the belt slips or not--the engine RPM and belt speed will be linear when not slipping.
Won't detect slippage at the blower..
Just tacho the blower pulley. Should be linear in relation to RPM if not slipping . This method will detect slip at both pullys👍
Maybe the higher velocity through the modified in/out created some sort of venturi effect across the port going to the boost sensor giving you a false pressure reading? Also it's hard to be sure but it looks like your bigger inlet has the sides of the square maybe protruding out into the round tube... if that is the case maybe you could get a tad more airflow by either disassembling it and grinding those out or else maybe shape one end of the round tube into a square to match the actual opening a bit better like a round to square transition then weld it to a square hole in the plate. I had no idea these things existed till you posted this and man they are cheap, now I got to figure out how to build something with one.
I think you were getting more airflow with less boost pressure on the improved intake due to it running more efficiently.
Perhaps because the stock inlet was a restriction, causing you too superheat the air, or perhaps due to shape of the inlet (curves instead of right angle edges etc).
Good answer. What about increased or decreased velocity due to the smaller/larger openings? Would it be better to run 1&1? One stock, one larger?
Exactly boost is a number relative to restriction. You can run the same setup on a stock engine and get higher boost, but once you increase the engines flow the boost will decrease, but flow will increase. Boost is a relative factor not an absolute number.
Before modifying to a toothed belt try modifying the bracket to adapt two pulleys within the belt route one just above the super charger pulley and one just below the supercharger pulley and route the belt through make sure the fit is real tight between the two pulleys, this will ensure the highest contact patch the ribbed belt has around the supercharger pulley itself this will also nearly eliminate pulley slippage at high revs due to the belt loosing grip as the slack end of the belt.
WOW...this is probably your best work as an automotive journalist.
thnx-I now have the data from the blower dyno too
@@richardholdener1727 OMG I think I'm going to pass out.
The AMR500 blower could about perfect fitted to a 350 to 500 CC 4-stroke motorcycle engine!
Kei car too (660 cc max).
That's exactly what I plan on doing! I have a Honda gx500 twin that I'm putting in a drag lawn tractor and I plan on using this setup to feed it
except that it takes roughly half that engines expected output to power it...
The neck created to allow more airflow has restrictions from the Procharger itself. The air is meeting a flat surface, make a conical inlet and should in theory flow better. I do believe it has belt slippage as well.
Thnx-This is not a Procharger. It is an AMR500 roots style supercharger
I wonder if you had switched it back to the original smaller inlet and outlets if it would go back to making the same boost. The Amr500 is only rated at 16k rpm so spinning it to 18k might have caused some extra wear and opened up clearances giving less boost.
Put an optical tachometer on the compressor pulley to detect if slippage is occuring. Rpm curve will not be linear if slippage occurs.
I think the lower temp made up for the horsepower that would have been lost from the lower amount of boost lower temperature air is more dense which means more horsepower
air bypassing the rotor tips, leakage, inefficiency, that's how you check pump efficiency, flow open and flow at pressure. also as the case heats up more leak.
15:03 boost was lower because the air charge was cooler and more dense
Could the high temps cause the “more boost” with the smaller inlets???
The boost was lower due to the lower temperature. At least 1/2 of your boost was the increased air temperature. Your intakes increased the efficiency of the blower. This lowered the air temperature at the same flow rate. This lowered the boost pressure even though you are moving more air.
Pretty well this. It's like going to a bigger turbo. Less boost but more flow.
This is just a FUN test, cool information. What are these blowers used on from factory?
Kabota tractors. Small displacement engines in cars in China..
Spend $35 more and get a gt45 turbo that actually work
Not a blower though, I don't know why we don't see Chinese universal superchargers
@@mackenziehutchison4838probably more expensive to produce while not being very profitable
@@mackenziehutchison4838Chinesium powdered metal
@@mackenziehutchison4838because turbo tolerances can be forgiving while with the rotors of a supercharger they need to be precise.
@@Joebauers2505 idk how true that is they've been making superchargers since the 1800s before turbos where practical to make. My thought was more cars can run turbos like i4 then a a big screw blower so they make turbos.
My best guess as to why boost decreased would be turbulence caused. The smaller outlet is closer to the size of the restrictor creating less turbulence on outflow. The larger outlet not only is the air restricted but it's more back pressure against the blower
Great work Richard. Man, I love watching you do stuff hot rod guys like me have always wanted to do.
Then do it!! Let those hot rodding dreams run wild 👍
Not sure if what I am seeing is correct, but at 8:43 of this video, it looks like the belt is jumping on the crank pulley. That is probably why the results are showing a bit of belt slippage.
belt misalignment (was cured), not slippage
When i first heard you start the ls with the blower on it, i thought you were just yelling "yaaaaaaaaaaa" for a long time 😂
I was
My guess to the higher boost pressure with the stock plastic in/ex is the hose used! Looked like flexible radiator hose.
Long ribbed hose would be a lot more turbulent and restrict flow downstream more than the smooth silicone elbow.
Boost is a measurement of restriction.
You should test this on various combinations. A ford 300 i6, a 4 cylinder of some sort, obviously the LS.
Im thinking we can see why he chose to measure its output instead of risking perfectly good LS .Your idea makes sense
Excellent view Richard of HP to make boost. NO WONDER TURBOS are so popular & Super Richey Dyno really made it all click for me.
thnx
Awesome content!
I would love to see you do this with a 6-71, with a restriction of say, 8 lbs boost by 6000rpm.
So many of us street guys run these, would be amazing to see real world numbers on the horsepower draw.
Thanks for all your amazing hot rod science!!
Very specific lol
it wasnt connected.. Also there ment for 1.5L or less motors..
What would you run them on? I’m thinking if it would add anything to my small block Chevy lol.
Well, I would not run that on a small block. Because it'd be very restrictive, the only way. If you must use that super charger, you'd have to get it all the way up to A 10:1 ratio on the belt or higher to before even starts to keep up with the air flow demand of the engine. Hence the reason why they ran a 671 super charger on small block engines. Now a small block, Chevrolet with a 671 at 6000 rpm. Aking APS I that's not correct either a you got a lot of bypass Or belt slippage of some kind or the incorrect belt ratio. If you look on wield superchargers chart states 350 with 6/71 at 1:1 make 31psi .
@@woodzyfox4735 2.0l
You used a longer, ribbed hose for the stock outlet, and a shorter, smooth, and curved hose for the super richie outlet. The longer length and more turbulent flow from the ribs might be the reason for the higher boost. While the Super Richie outlet you have a more "laminar" like flow, less restriction, more CFM, = less pressure/boost at the sensor.
I'm building a Porsche 912. Still at the walking around it and starring stage. An AMR500 is on my list of possibilities. This info is going to help a lot.
Mitsu TD04 , AR gt 25,28 cheap reliable and easier to plumb
Don't.
@@eflanagan1921 Don't want a turbo.
@@Marc_Wolfe Why not?
Bigger. Maybe an M90.
Blower green belt. That angle iron may be flexing just a bit too. Weld in a reinforcement brace on the bottom just below the blower might help.
More flow through a bigger opening is going to give you less pressure…
Supercharged 3800 guys learned long ago better flow = less boost. But it lowers intake temps and allows for a pulley change to make more power without spark knock.
Now you need a 3 cyl Geo Metro engine to put it on!
good choice
@@richardholdener1727 Honda D or B series, although B series VTEC might create an issue with the extra airflow when VTEC hits. Even with an Eaton M90 on a GSR motor, the boost dropped 3 psi at VTEC crossover.
@@richardholdener1727 so this thing put out the equivalent of say a china intake port for a sbc head?
The higher boost pressure on the restricted nozzle is just from heating (inefficiency). The high flow nozzles are less restrictive and result in less heating of the intake charge, thus lower indicated boost.
Still think you should stick it on a 4cyl 2.3l engine
If its work, put this on my car 😂
Air flow and air pressure are inversely related. Adding better flowing inlet/outlets reduces inherent restriction. This increases air flow (cfm) while simultaneously reducing pressure (psi) which is just a measurement of restriction.
Put a predator engine on the dyno...😂
I wonder if the boost taper at the top of the first round with the blower not feeding the engine is the result of the airflow cavitating at the inlet to the blower.
I think the blower lobes are actually separating. I don’t think the housing or the gaps inside the housing between the lobes are holding any more pressure.
not at 5 psi
@@richardholdener1727 then I guess maybe it’s some sort of cavitation issue turbulent air flow through the housing in and around the lobes, the reason I’m saying that as I think the rpm of the rotors is such that it should be creating more than that. She sounds like she’s really screaming and to only make 5 pounds of pressure seems off. But I’m not really a blower guy. I don’t know much more than the basics. But it does remind me of the blowers from the 30s in the 40s. They also made a lot of noise but didn’t create a whole Lotta pressure.
@@ajjskins This thing sounds like an air raid or nuke alert siren
Looks like need 4 of those cute blowers 😄
I have a AMR500 being slightly underdriven (1¾" drive 2"driven) on a 490cc b&s v-twin thru a custom hand made high flow intake manifold. Waiting on a shipping for a boost gage to confirm how much boost but its definitely getting boost.
I love this... like really LOVE THIS!!!!!
Boost pressure is resistance of flow. You increase the flow with the same volume of air, pressure drops, but you are processing the same if not more air.
airflow went up
So, my question is how MANY AMR500 blowers can you fit on a single engine?
/s
THose look like a portable air compressor youd plug into the cig lighter.
The Boost lost with bigger intake was not for the reason you would suspect. It was because the blower was able to move more air that increased load on a belt pulley system that was already at 100%. Any further increases in load resulted in significantly higher slip ratio and net loss. With a cog drive or a 10 rib belt you would have seen an increase in Boost.
nope-or we would have seen a sharp drop in airflow
Passing the point of diminishing returns maybe with the drop In boost? I'll give it one thing, it sounds damn good. Richard, now you need to hook it up to the engine so we can see how it becomes a restriction 😆
150-hp blower on a 440-hp motor
@@richardholdener1727 On the omni?
I wonder what it would do on a slant six?
@@richardholdener1727
@@dazaspcI think this might be the blower that "redbeards garage " UA-cam channel put on his predator drag race engine.
I think the blower overheats at high speed, it causes all sorts of extra friction and would eventually show as belt slippage. I doubt you can just keep spinning the little guy forever, something eventually has to give.
As to the increased flow causing less boost, my guess is the extra airflow increasing velocity and then pressure drop over your map sensor. That, and it seems the outlet would be much cooler with the extra airflow. I'd be interested in retesting with an "intake manifold" with much more volume.
What is this blower used for in the real world?
Kabota tractors! And a lot of small displacement engines in China!
I’d assume that since the air has less restriction leaving the blower and not staying in the blower, the air stays cooler so boost goes down as air flow goes up since heat is going down, so the air is taking up less space. Boost is always higher on the hot side of the inner cooler.
Super Ritchie! Affordable Aerospace Pressizon. Evalowayted to provide quarity, affordomobility, and exalince!
That cute little thing could be cool if made to work on something like a motorcycle engine.
Makes sense. If you free up the flow you're going to move more air at less boost. The limit of the charger will be CFM moreso than pressure but as pressure builds that cfm will naturally fall off since it can't be perfectly internally sealed. Calling them positive displacement is only true so far as machining tolerances - they aren't 100% PD.
I'd take the free flow and lower pressure every time. Lower charge temps, same air flow and less stress.
positive displacement is a classification or family of blowers
@@richardholdener1727 I know. My point is they can't actually displace 100% of their capacity due to sealing limitations. You usually lose a little as pressure and flow increase.
The bigger inlet allowed more turbulence on top of the blower where it’s picked up. The bigger inlet can make more flow with the bigger inlet but when you restrict to add boost it creates the turbulence which equates to less boost. You basically reached the max boost capacity of the the case. Just my hypothesis. Edit: you may be able to fix the turbulence and keep the bigger inlet by shaping the inlet slightly to keep the over all diameter but allow for less turbulence. Maybe 😂
The bigger hole was met with a ridge.
How many more pulls would it take before the belt jumped completely of the drive pulley? My guess would be to work on keeping the belt on the drive pulley and that should keep the belt from slipping.
the belt alignment was cured by simply adjusting the blower position relative to the mounting bracket-it was not an issue on the first 30 pulls-only after reinstalling it-needed to go through the belt alignment process
"Do you think it was slipping?" Gee, I wonder how it wandered between crank pulley grooves.....
The boost pressure is lower on the higher inlet/outlet dimensions because of ideal gas law. The air is cooler, therefore more dense. I am too lazy to do the math here, but the mass air flow can be back calculated from pressure and temperature. Everything makes perfect sense here.
I'm sure there was some belt slippage. Also, it may have been outside its efficiency island. That said, it made some nice noises. 😎
You could almost Hear friction. Like it was fighting the motor. With the size and the amount of air that ls uses. More inclined to believe that it’s too small and not putting enough air into the system for it to effect it substantially
Would have been nice to see it hooked up to the engine to see the HP draw vs any gains using such a small blower on a big displacement engine
150-hp blower on a 440-hp motor doesn't work
then why run it with a LS???
@@richardholdener1727 I know this I was just curious on the effects it would have had on that engine
What if you ran two of them?
the LS was only used to spin the blower to test airflow, temp and the power required to drive the blower so we now know what kind of motor we should run it on-once again, a 150-hp blower does not ADD power to a 440-hp na motor
Hey Richie, how about a steam driven turbo from the heat produced without the restriction in exhaust flow but from an exhaust driven boiler????????
steam engines-now we are going old school
You could probably fit one or two more blowers on that bracket!!
Another question would be how effective would that little S/C be on an engine like that. I know they are for smaller displacement engines.
150-HP BLOWER ON A 440-HP MOTOR-DOES NOT WORK
Air speed. Faster air = lower pressure. Bernoulli’s principle. I also think I could hear belt slip on every run except the big inlet and outlet unrestricted. Always enjoy your videos, love to see people passionate about the science behind engines.
Yeah if you listen carefully you can hear the rpm’s on the blower kinda hang while the ls keep going up in rpm definitely a little belt slippage up at 10,000 or so blower rpm I think was also wondering about the accuracy of the pressure readings from airflow across the orifice of the pressure sensor I definitely think 250 cfm is possible with housing porting and maybe water cooling the housing along with an air to water intercooler the gear drive alone probably makes enough heat to increase air temps
Two different outlets, the one with less boost had more flex in the rubber causing a greater loss in boost. To solve this use ridged pipe while keeping the same volume.
Lol love the mount bracket easy peasy
it was what was sitting around
@@richardholdener1727 looks like it worked just fine.
I've seen these little industrial air pumps used to aerate ponds and sewage digester tanks, usually driven by a 10HP or so electric motor.
this is a 150-hp blower
Air temp is the reason for the boost difference, the smaller adaptors restricted airflow, it created a much hotter discharge temp so the air mass expanded more and that registered a higher pressure measurement.