I did a fence post replacement today after watching this video last night. Thank you for posting (no pun intended!) it! I'm really liking these Mitre 10 vids!
Thank you for your video! Another reason for leaning post is using improperly aged wood. As the wood shrinks, it creates a space between post and concrete. I have also read that one should finish up by caulking around post to prevent water from seeping in.
Can you show the video of you guys replacing that new post in 10 years? I want to see how big the next hole will be, assuming you can actually remove the concrete.
That is a lot of concrete! I'm in wet, clay English soil with horses that push at posts and scratch their big strong arses on the posts. My posts last a maximum of 5 years so I'm now using reinforced concrete spurs which don't rot. No wood in the ground. And way less concrete. One 20kg bag of fast set concrete per post. So far so good and I use a trenching spade and an auger to get a deep, solid plug, rather than have a massive block of concrete. This blokes fence repair is strong, but I wouldn't want to be the bloke pulling out the rotten fence post in 10 years.
this is common in new zealand as we get massive earth quakes, plaques and inter tribal wars, our maori guys averge 6ft 9 weighing 25 stone and could kick in a fence like that if it werent for the 10 barrel loads of concrete
Step 1: For a few months prior to starting the post removal, have your personal trainer work you up to being able to dead lift the front end of a car. Step 2: Following the instruction in the video, dead lift the half ton mass of concrete out of the post hole and toss it aside. Step 3: Complete the fence repair.
Love channel and knowledge, but I am in Canada and I have an infestation of Kiwis in my back yard ??? I know, heard it a million times.... Keep it up, cool channel.
Nice video mate! Like your steps and accent. This is a 2 or 3 person job, I did it in the summer. Breaking concrete base and digging out is no joke. We do not see all this, agree with others saying nothing easy here!😁 Agree with all steps- we used to break up concrete and push back - wedge in and pour fresh. Depends on hole and post width! RIGHT T OH!
Can you do a video of the same thing but in a flower bed where there’s no room and you can’t damage any plants & shrubs & you haven’t got 24 hours for concrete to set because your boss is on your back..
Shouldn’t the tree be addressed first? Won’t it’s roots just grow and cause more problems? When large side fence panel is removed, easy access to remove tree if it’s too close to house or fence etc. Curious if you leave the offending tree won’t it just cause more problems in the future? No tree expert here lol 😂
Great video, I am also a carpenter by trade, I would suggest much deeper 600mm at least, only needs to be 350mm square or round , also I barrow of concrete if not less will fill the hole and will never move .... Just my thoughts
We generally dig our posts for fences 4-500mm, depends how long your arms are to drag out the sub grade, here in NZ its generally volcanic rock or river bed, a biitch to dig a hole 🙆♂️
HELP I have a corrugated iron fence the rails are munted I've started on the top one BUT how can I pull in the Iron to the timber without access to the neighbors' property on the bottom rails? Should I just use a construction glue that binds wood to metal and hope for the best???? But as above I'd like to pull the iron in on the bottom rails.
Hey, that sounds like a bit of a mission! If you can't get onto the neighbor's side, maybe try using screws with wide washers to pull the iron back to the timber. Start at the top and work your way down. Another option is using tension straps from your side to pull the sheets in. Construction adhesive could help as a backup, but you'd want to use screws as well for a more solid fix. ^Cam
This so much hahahahhaa, he put in more concrete than some people have on their fundation. Hell of a repairjob when the fence gets rotten or cracks holy fuck.
You want the concrete higher than the ground so that the water will not set next to the wood post. That's why you see the foundation to your house is always 6 inch's above the ground. The concrete should be around one and a half to two inch above the ground. ( concrete guy with 30 years experience, still learning)
@@Mr.Pop0 I'd use posts with preservatives and wrapped with sheet metal a couple inches above ground level. Note: using redwood posts will not work because you need 100 year growth or more. Younger redwood will still rot.
Hiya Nanci, hard to say without seeing the fence ourselves but please feel free to reach out to us directly or in store and we'd be more than happy to help ^Nathan
Took the words out of my mouth! LOL it simple-minded but nothing easy about the physical labor especially when you have to do the same thing to every post! Lol
One problem with my fence is that the metal posts are somewhat crooked. Is there any way for me to adjust them without digging them all up and resetting them? Cus I dont think there is...
if you are referring to the LATICE atop the panels, then you can buy it premade at any lumber shop it is sold and pretty easy to DIY your own with half by sticks
I'm not sure what the building code is where the guy in the video lives but In Canada, Ontario that post has to be 4 feet buried in the ground below frost level. Basically this job is on hard mode of you're in Canada 😂
Another awesome video! Do you offer free building work to people so you can film it or are these just normal jobs you get and you ask for permission to film?
The root? Getting rid of the root in that one location doesn't seem like it's going to solve the problem. Won't it just grow back and cause the new post to lean again?
Watch again; they cut the offending tree down before straightening the fence. Presumably it's the type of tree that won't grow back when cut at ground level.
I've been building for twenty years...seldom ever found a fence with just one bent post. No post hole should ever be less than 600mm in the ground including site concrete for a fence that tall. Two other significant reasons for the warping of the post are the design of the fence with inlaid rails (just a bad idea) and wet and knotty posts and rails when built. I have never been back to a fence I have built that has warped so badly.
He did mention and you perhaps did not listen when he said he hit volcanic rock, not sure how you realize it is but that stuff will break even the strongest of jackhammers. He also should have widened the hole the other way to prevent future leaning as the way he did adds no more stability of post to pot with the fence panels supporting them that way.
the one bag rule is why the fences lean in the first place, but it could have been a bit deeper. A fence that tall is putting a ton of force on the footing, that much concrete is the minimum to be frank. He hit solid volcanic rock which is why he stopped, otherwise the rule of thumb is 1/3 of the post length should be under ground.
I love it, but no way I can do this! 🤪 plus my fence has garden beds next to it for another 60-70cm and then it’s concrete, so step one and I’m lost 😭😭😭😭
You could look up "how to straighten a framing stud" and try that method. If that doesn't work, you may have to replace it like in this video. Good luck!
Pretty hot and tropical there year round so not much frost line but still, as he said though he hit volcanic rock and that is tough stuff to crack, but he should have widen the hole the other way to prevent future leaning in the one axis
Is it just me or was there absolutely nothing wrong with that fence post? I mean, if it was loose, you could have just added a metal shim that plows right down between the wood and concrete. Or if you really like pouring concrete you could brace the post and pour in filler. Even easier, use the new type of foam filler that really gets into small spaces. But, I guess this method does look better for the lady folk. EDIT: If you want something done right....this is the guy.
I did a fence post replacement today after watching this video last night. Thank you for posting (no pun intended!) it! I'm really liking these Mitre 10 vids!
You made it look easy, because you are a beast of a man !!! Not very many average guys could do that!!!!
Thank you for the excellent video and the amazing voice. Why is it that the Australian accent is so soothing?
We're from New Zealand, but Australians are our neighbours so we do sound similar sometimes! ^Cam
Thank you for your video! Another reason for leaning post is using improperly aged wood. As the wood shrinks, it creates a space between post and concrete. I have also read that one should finish up by caulking around post to prevent water from seeping in.
Can you show the video of you guys replacing that new post in 10 years? I want to see how big the next hole will be, assuming you can actually remove the concrete.
That is a lot of concrete! I'm in wet, clay English soil with horses that push at posts and scratch their big strong arses on the posts. My posts last a maximum of 5 years so I'm now using reinforced concrete spurs which don't rot. No wood in the ground. And way less concrete. One 20kg bag of fast set concrete per post. So far so good and I use a trenching spade and an auger to get a deep, solid plug, rather than have a massive block of concrete. This blokes fence repair is strong, but I wouldn't want to be the bloke pulling out the rotten fence post in 10 years.
Hella lota cement! That fence will withstand tornadoes, tsunamis, and hurricanes! Wow! Impressive how superior your work is to 99.9% of all people.
this is common in new zealand as we get massive earth quakes, plaques and inter tribal wars, our maori guys averge 6ft 9 weighing 25 stone and could kick in a fence like that if it werent for the 10 barrel loads of concrete
As usual Stan gives excellent advice in a step by step procedure!! Great video.
Nick Nichols ffnrlbk
Excellent video - far better than those Bunnings ones.
Looked at loads video's on this topic and this is the best!
) ll
Step 1: For a few months prior to starting the post removal, have your personal trainer work you up to being able to dead lift the front end of a car. Step 2: Following the instruction in the video, dead lift the half ton mass of concrete out of the post hole and toss it aside. Step 3: Complete the fence repair.
Lol, right!
And have a Heating Pad and an appointment with a Chiropractor!
This is funny. I noticed that too.
can rent an SDS or jackhammer if you prefer small pieces
😊😊😊😊
Lol! Did I hear saber saw? I love how different parts of the world have different names for their tools. Love the video!
in USA they are often referred to as a sawzall, as it saws all things with the right blade
Honestly, i laughed when he called the Peg a Pig, and the lag a 'tick screw'. NZ Naming is much more fun.
...and also when he said "now we clean all the rubbish in the hole" lol
Best fence post replacement video out there!
Cheers Chris!
I like that you are doing this with safety equipment. Very helpful
Always good to be safe 👍
Love channel and knowledge, but I am in Canada and I have an infestation of Kiwis in my back yard ??? I know, heard it a million times.... Keep it up, cool channel.
Nice video mate! Like your steps and accent. This is a 2 or 3 person job, I did it in the summer. Breaking concrete base and digging out is no joke. We do not see all this, agree with others saying nothing easy here!😁 Agree with all steps- we used to break up concrete and push back - wedge in and pour fresh. Depends on hole and post width! RIGHT T OH!
rrrr not in NZ mate
@@fatherdougalmcguire9129
Good to hear that! If you have the skills, strength and experience - yes, one guy can do it.
The next person to have to replace that post is going to have ever so much fun.
Now that is the correct way to do it. Nice job !!
Can you do a video of the same thing but in a flower bed where there’s no room and you can’t damage any plants & shrubs & you haven’t got 24 hours for concrete to set because your boss is on your back..
Best to use anchors in concrete and bolt posts to anchors.
Beautiful work very thoroughly done. Thank you I've learnt so much.
You make it look so easy, thanks...I'll try it your way.
Glad to hear, let us know how you get on 👍
Shouldn’t the tree be addressed first? Won’t it’s roots just grow and cause more problems? When large side fence panel is removed, easy access to remove tree if it’s too close to house or fence etc. Curious if you leave the offending tree won’t it just cause more problems in the future? No tree expert here lol 😂
Awesome vid bro.
"Remove the old post. Now, carefully insert the new post in the exposed hole in the concrete" ....God, I wish he had said that!
Great video, I am also a carpenter by trade, I would suggest much deeper 600mm at least, only needs to be 350mm square or round , also I barrow of concrete if not less will fill the hole and will never move .... Just my thoughts
He said he hit solid volcanic rock
We generally dig our posts for fences 4-500mm, depends how long your arms are to drag out the sub grade, here in NZ its generally volcanic rock or river bed, a biitch to dig a hole 🙆♂️
Stan the man always watch his videos
John Pa'a
moves
John Pa'a Zcm was jjj
Is there an app I can put on my phone that will do this for me?
That prop thing at 5:40 looks good to me.... Done!!!😁
Australians nick name is Aussie-- what are New Zealanders called?
Kiwi’s
HELP
I have a corrugated iron fence the rails are munted I've started on the top one BUT how can I pull in the Iron to the timber without access to the neighbors' property on the bottom rails? Should I just use a construction glue that binds wood to metal and hope for the best????
But as above I'd like to pull the iron in on the bottom rails.
Hey, that sounds like a bit of a mission! If you can't get onto the neighbor's side, maybe try using screws with wide washers to pull the iron back to the timber. Start at the top and work your way down. Another option is using tension straps from your side to pull the sheets in. Construction adhesive could help as a backup, but you'd want to use screws as well for a more solid fix. ^Cam
I don’t think you used enough concrete. That only seems like 8 bags.
How many tons of concrete was that?!
This so much hahahahhaa, he put in more concrete than some people have on their fundation. Hell of a repairjob when the fence gets rotten or cracks holy fuck.
Small concrete patio he made 😂
2
Thank you for sharing!
nice job .... you make my job easy thank you
You want the concrete higher than the ground so that the water will not set next to the wood post. That's why you see the foundation to your house is always 6 inch's above the ground. The concrete should be around one and a half to two inch above the ground. ( concrete guy with 30 years experience, still learning)
How do you handle unreasonable clients that want it below grade though?
@@Mr.Pop0 I'd use posts with preservatives and wrapped with sheet metal a couple inches above ground level. Note: using redwood posts will not work because you need 100 year growth or more. Younger redwood will still rot.
Sheet metal I'm refering to galvanised tin that comes in rolls used on roof flashing
You can advise .If they don't take notice do what they want.
I’m making a list for what is needed when I go fix mine. So for concrete I have 12 bags needed for each post. Is that about right? Lol
Just one bag and heavily putting earth underneath works just as well and is better to repair lol.
My neighbor place lots of boulders on my fence, it's now leaning inwards. Would concrete blocks hold up the fence from leaning in wards?
Hiya Nanci, hard to say without seeing the fence ourselves but please feel free to reach out to us directly or in store and we'd be more than happy to help ^Nathan
how long does the screws have to be? the ones that attach the rail to the post? to fasten the fence panel? Very nice video...easy to understand!
3" for rail to post, 2" for picket to rail
Translation 75mm for rail to post, 50mm for picket to rail
work it out numb nuts
Thanks very helpful.
What kind of screw is that at 00:50? 10-gauge *something* screw
WenceOG tick screw? I couldn't believe he bashed that pig into the ground.
Tek screw
Ha, did I see the word 'easy' in the title? Did it right, but it ain't easy.
Took the words out of my mouth! LOL it simple-minded but nothing easy about the physical labor especially when you have to do the same thing to every post! Lol
Well I’d say it’s easy but need intense physical work especially while removing the old concrete. 👍
I am about 4 flupsy doh 3:46 ?? How deep is your hole? Nice video thanks
This will be 450 deep 🙌 Thanks for watching! ^Cam
@@mitre10nz 450 what?? Units would help. Millimeters I am guessing? Coming from the US here
Classic kiwi accent coming through here 😅 Yes, 450 millimetres. Cheers, ^Nathan
I used to hate those drills.. until I used one. Saves the wrist from tweaking out. Lol
Concrete wasn't sloped to allow water too drain away from the post.
Shuddup...
yea their screwed now
Good video Mate!!
any video showing leaning colorbond fence?
Great suggestion! We'll pass this onto the team! ^Cam
03:30 Did the worm survive?
Proper Job! ✅
When your making the support with the two screws, are you supposed to predrill a hole in the wood?
A predrill will prevent the timber move also it makes much easier to screw in the screws.
Can do that if you have a 2nd gun and not in a hurry but its only a tempoary support so Tek screw straight in is OK
If you mean the "Tek" screws, they have a drill bit shaped tip, so you don't have to pre-drill.
One problem with my fence is that the metal posts are somewhat crooked. Is there any way for me to adjust them without digging them all up and resetting them? Cus I dont think there is...
Can someone tell me what the criss cross patterns on the fence is called and if there's a video of him repairing those
if you are referring to the LATICE atop the panels, then you can buy it premade at any lumber shop it is sold and pretty easy to DIY your own with half by sticks
J M trellis
Lattice panels
Do the screws go in anti clockwise down under?
Robert Muszynski nope same as clock
This is filmed in New Zealand, not Australia.
Kay H, you missed the joke
@@Warhorse469 New Zealand is even more south than Australia.
I had some jerks set posts in a meter down, one took 2 hours to pull.
hahahaha
sux 4 u
Hey sometimes the concrete is deep as 600 mm and really hard to take that out in tight spaces, so what to do ???
Heya, you could hire a kango, or jack hammer to break the concrete up 👍
@@mitre10nz thanks
very good
Great video.
I'm not sure what the building code is where the guy in the video lives but In Canada, Ontario that post has to be 4 feet buried in the ground below frost level. Basically this job is on hard mode of you're in Canada 😂
Video made in New Zealand where we don't worry about frost levels in the ground
Just stand next to fence with your hand on it, job done .
where do we get 1 of those Sabre saws from
They can be bought at almost any place that sells power tools. Also known as a reciprocating saw.
crabs
crabs
also refered to as sawzall because it saws all and a pretty common tool like a circular saw
TeToruFarms awww.
How to swap out a fence post when your built like a rugby player.
next up, how demolish a house with your bare hands
I’m living in the US now but always look to the Mitre 10 series for DIY stuff. They don’t even use concrete in their fence post holes over here! 🙄
Cheers Robert!
A world without tec screws is a world I do not want to live in! Haha
darrell Prince mark
Awesome job!
stanley so strong lifting that mass of concrete in a millisecond
Thank You!
Awesome accent bro!!
Strong little guy, wow
Great advice and great video! Thanks!
Another awesome video! Do you offer free building work to people so you can film it or are these just normal jobs you get and you ask for permission to film?
Ĺ
The root? Getting rid of the root in that one location doesn't seem like it's going to solve the problem. Won't it just grow back and cause the new post to lean again?
Watch again; they cut the offending tree down before straightening the fence. Presumably it's the type of tree that won't grow back when cut at ground level.
Thank you missed that 👌
What’s the dimensions of those posts?
Likely 100x100mm rough sawn (4×4")
4 INCH by 4 INCHES
Hi Stan great video (as all Ive seen are) where do you get ur nail bags or Penny as u Kiwis refer to them? J V "Nick" Nichols,DC1,USCG,(Ret)
Excellent Video +++
Righty oh. Fine job.
I came to this video to help sort my post and fence out, as a petite woman standing at 5ft 4 - God help me! 😂
We hope you get it sorted, sounds like a tough one! ^Cam
I've been building for twenty years...seldom ever found a fence with just one bent post. No post hole should ever be less than 600mm in the ground including site concrete for a fence that tall. Two other significant reasons for the warping of the post are the design of the fence with inlaid rails (just a bad idea) and wet and knotty posts and rails when built. I have never been back to a fence I have built that has warped so badly.
Dude all day!!!! Checkout the damn posts and 600mm. Couldn't agree more
He did mention and you perhaps did not listen when he said he hit volcanic rock, not sure how you realize it is but that stuff will break even the strongest of jackhammers. He also should have widened the hole the other way to prevent future leaning as the way he did adds no more stability of post to pot with the fence panels supporting them that way.
He gets paid for doing what a customer wants. He don't care about trolling comments.
Can you come & repair my one section thats leaning? I don't think I can do that.
great job - How to fex a linning fince ;)
Thanks!
Three barrows of crete? That's a big ass post-hole!
...pity the poor sod who has to dig out that new concrete plug in the future. 2 barrows full!
3 barrows full :O
I pity the person who has to take that post out ... 200 lbs of concrete
Matt Crocker was thinking the same when he put the 3rd wheel barrel lol
Matt Crocker one bag per post and LITTLE gravel at Bottoms for drainage. going need jack Hammer and dump truck lol.
the one bag rule is why the fences lean in the first place, but it could have been a bit deeper. A fence that tall is putting a ton of force on the footing, that much concrete is the minimum to be frank. He hit solid volcanic rock which is why he stopped, otherwise the rule of thumb is 1/3 of the post length should be under ground.
i agree, fuck all that shit, just pay him or somebody else to do it.
Matt Crocker b
good wood drills/skills....yes....good concrete ..nooooo far to wet..this wet mix will split very soon...`water equals weak`......
Now, 6 more posts to do before suppa'!
I love it, but no way I can do this! 🤪 plus my fence has garden beds next to it for another 60-70cm and then it’s concrete, so step one and I’m lost 😭😭😭😭
We believe in you!! ^Cam
Poor 'pig'.
Love your vids!
Cool job mate, Even I am doing something similar :)
Now we can put a shrimp on the Barbie.
Mark Katz no you can't ..he's a kiwi !
Oi mate
my sawsall doesnt cut anything the blades do the cutting
My fence post is not leaning, it's bending starting at about halfway up
You could look up "how to straighten a framing stud" and try that method. If that doesn't work, you may have to replace it like in this video. Good luck!
oh no
Why worry about small details when the rest of the fence is all over the place anyway?
Rightio!
BTW excellent video
This guy made it look like a walk in the park
looks like was not deep enough also here in North it's 3 feet.
Pretty hot and tropical there year round so not much frost line but still, as he said though he hit volcanic rock and that is tough stuff to crack, but he should have widen the hole the other way to prevent future leaning in the one axis
One third is the general rule here, but it's not worth blasting volcanic rock to put in a fence post so he went wide instead.
concrete post is what we use ! last a life time !
wood directly in the ground or a concrete boot or even foam, nothing is resistant to heaving forces
dave cooper well an earthquake will rearrange even concrete fence posts and foundations.
Is it just me or was there absolutely nothing wrong with that fence post? I mean, if it was loose, you could have just added a metal shim that plows right down between the wood and concrete. Or if you really like pouring concrete you could brace the post and pour in filler. Even easier, use the new type of foam filler that really gets into small spaces. But, I guess this method does look better for the lady folk.
EDIT: If you want something done right....this is the guy.
I wish my country did everything in SI. :-(
i do not want to remove that pole afterwards god 3 barrels of concrete
Too much concrete sir
Sajid Rafique forfucksaked Mr know it all
Shut your fucking mouth bitch.
How it cost to repair the fence ?
A few hundred $ for post, screws and concrete, + labour whatever time it takes x the going rate in your area
The leaning fence of New Zealand