From Mohawk site: "RevWood Select flooring is suitable for use in climate controlled (35-65% RH and 60-85° F)" "A moisture test is strongly recommended to determine if high moisture exists in the subfloor." With regard to leveling: From Mohawk site: - Laminate: "Remove bumps or peaks in subfloor and fill depressions with floor leveling compound to ensure no more than 3/16” unevenness per 10-foot span" "Ensure there will be a 3/8” gap (after the joint is closed) to the wall for expansion." - LVT/LVP: "Subfloor should be flat within a tolerance of 1/8” over a span of 4 feet. Any unevenness over 1/8” must be sanded down or filled with a floor leveler." *1/8" over 4', would be 5/16" over 10', indicating the leveling requirements are LESS stringent for their LVP/LVT. With regard to abrasion resistance: LVP/LVT has the upper hand. There are many tests on UA-cam that demonstrate that. Expansion and contraction: The most expansion to the least is Hardwood, ceramic, laminate (MDF), Engineered flooring, and SPC (stone plastic core). UA-cam has a video where they put a plank outside for an hour at 0 degrees F, and one in the oven at 250 F and there was no perceptible difference. It is stone core, which is why it is so heavy, strong, and stable. With regard to locking, there are good, strong locking systems with LVP/LVT and bad ones, depending on both thickness and core material. HOWEVER, the reason laminates must be thicker is because the locking system would be too fragile if it were thinner since the core material is nowhere near as strong as rigid vinyl. You need to consider the impact of it being thicker with regard to doors, door jambs, wall registers, etc. A good locking system is vital for any floating floor. With regard to denting, laminate is MORE prone to denting from furniture due to its softer core. There are many tests on UA-cam that demonstrate that. Market changes: Laminate's niche has always been built on price, but LVP/LVT had all but erased its advantage. However there has been a renaissance in the laminate market fueled by price increases in the core material of LVP/LVT. High-end LVP/LVT is pushing into hardwood territory today. This enabled a market and margins that enabled mitigating issues with laminate's swelling and peeling at the joints. Thus, you cannot compare laminate today with that of even a few years ago. Personally,, I find laminate looks more like real wood. A real, sanded and finished hardwood floor does not have the raised grain that the LVP market is so enamored with at the moment and looks so fake. For a good looking LVP you are looking at Karndean, with a price that is pushing the price of real hardwood BEFORE you add the pad it doesn't come with, and there are some laminates that still look better for, which drives me to consider laminate. The problem with hardwood is I don't want a floor that is a showpiece but isn't life proof. For those price driven, and for those who are not but can't see paying more to get less, laminate is back in play for flooring.
Cant the same tongue and grove break on the laminate as well? When things are hard, they tend to be more brittle. You can buy thicker laminate ans thicker mil vinyl as well.
The biggest difference other than the things that you mentioned is many LVT products will leak at the joints, it cannot be water proof it the locking system is not water tight.
Its not supposed to be watertight, waterproof in this instance means it will not be damaged with some contact with water. If you get moisture in a mdf or wood type material it will warp, grow stuff or whatever. If the core is instead, resin, then some moisture should not compromise its integrity. A pair of boots made from rubber are waterproof even if they have a hole in them, they just are not water tight.
@@walterdimmick653 There are products on the market that have a water tight locking joint, inferior products allow moisture to leak at the joint and cause mold and mildew growth as the water will migrate due to the poly underneath and it will find its way to the walls. There are test that can show how easily these lvp products leak, typically within 30 seconds, if you spill a glass of water you better get it up quickly or else it will get underneath.
Clear and precise.Thank you sir.
From Mohawk site: "RevWood Select flooring is suitable for use in climate controlled (35-65% RH and 60-85° F)" "A moisture test is strongly recommended to determine if high moisture exists in the subfloor."
With regard to leveling: From Mohawk site:
- Laminate: "Remove bumps or peaks in subfloor and fill depressions with floor leveling compound to ensure no more than 3/16” unevenness per 10-foot span" "Ensure there will be a 3/8” gap (after the joint is closed) to the wall for expansion."
- LVT/LVP: "Subfloor should be flat within a tolerance of 1/8” over a span of 4 feet. Any unevenness over 1/8” must be sanded down or filled with a floor leveler."
*1/8" over 4', would be 5/16" over 10', indicating the leveling requirements are LESS stringent for their LVP/LVT.
With regard to abrasion resistance: LVP/LVT has the upper hand. There are many tests on UA-cam that demonstrate that.
Expansion and contraction: The most expansion to the least is Hardwood, ceramic, laminate (MDF), Engineered flooring, and SPC (stone plastic core). UA-cam has a video where they put a plank outside for an hour at 0 degrees F, and one in the oven at 250 F and there was no perceptible difference. It is stone core, which is why it is so heavy, strong, and stable.
With regard to locking, there are good, strong locking systems with LVP/LVT and bad ones, depending on both thickness and core material. HOWEVER, the reason laminates must be thicker is because the locking system would be too fragile if it were thinner since the core material is nowhere near as strong as rigid vinyl. You need to consider the impact of it being thicker with regard to doors, door jambs, wall registers, etc. A good locking system is vital for any floating floor.
With regard to denting, laminate is MORE prone to denting from furniture due to its softer core. There are many tests on UA-cam that demonstrate that.
Market changes: Laminate's niche has always been built on price, but LVP/LVT had all but erased its advantage. However there has been a renaissance in the laminate market fueled by price increases in the core material of LVP/LVT. High-end LVP/LVT is pushing into hardwood territory today. This enabled a market and margins that enabled mitigating issues with laminate's swelling and peeling at the joints. Thus, you cannot compare laminate today with that of even a few years ago. Personally,, I find laminate looks more like real wood. A real, sanded and finished hardwood floor does not have the raised grain that the LVP market is so enamored with at the moment and looks so fake. For a good looking LVP you are looking at Karndean, with a price that is pushing the price of real hardwood BEFORE you add the pad it doesn't come with, and there are some laminates that still look better for, which drives me to consider laminate. The problem with hardwood is I don't want a floor that is a showpiece but isn't life proof. For those price driven, and for those who are not but can't see paying more to get less, laminate is back in play for flooring.
Thank you for sharing your insight. 🙂
Hi, great information. Is it true that luxury vinyl will emit VOC? THANKS.
Thanks for the good information.
So, can I install these floorings in a wood frame pier and beam home?
I got just nine packages of "Harmonics" brand laminate for $35. Hopefully that was a steal. Feels like a good quality product.
I have a double wide moblie home in the country what is best floor vinyl planks flooring or laminate flooring
Very helpful thanks
Cant the same tongue and grove break on the laminate as well? When things are hard, they tend to be more brittle. You can buy thicker laminate ans thicker mil vinyl as well.
What color is the laminate product you are showing?
The biggest difference other than the things that you mentioned is many LVT products will leak at the joints, it cannot be water proof it the locking system is not water tight.
Its not supposed to be watertight, waterproof in this instance means it will not be damaged with some contact with water. If you get moisture in a mdf or wood type material it will warp, grow stuff or whatever. If the core is instead, resin, then some moisture should not compromise its integrity. A pair of boots made from rubber are waterproof even if they have a hole in them, they just are not water tight.
@@walterdimmick653 There are products on the market that have a water tight locking joint, inferior products allow moisture to leak at the joint and cause mold and mildew growth as the water will migrate due to the poly underneath and it will find its way to the walls. There are test that can show how easily these lvp products leak, typically within 30 seconds, if you spill a glass of water you better get it up quickly or else it will get underneath.
What’s your opinion on Mohawk RevWood?
We love Mohawk RevWood! It's one of our favorite Laminate lines.
@NorCalCarpetBrokerAnderson how much does it run per sq/ft?