Wow. I like your designs, they are solid additions to your tool. You exhibit creativity all over the place. In addition your presentations are well edited. Well done.
I align my tool holders, especially the cutoff tool, by bumping it flush against the face of the chuck while the tool post is loose, then I tighten the tool post.
Wow, I just watched your 100 and 44 index video and this, and I am amazed at your ability to figure out how to do things with common stuff laying around. Like I want to try some gear cutting, but I don't want to spend an arm and a leg for fancy equipment if I don't need it, since I'm just a hobbyist.
I've thought about cutting gears too. I'm sure it could be done in the lathe although I don't know much about tooth profiles. I do know you can buy cutters to use in a mill which could be adapted.
Very nice! I did something similar. Made a tool holder on the mill like yours, but with a 1" hole, and mounted my Foredom handpiece in it for internal and external grinding. I also used a piece of 1/4" steel rod to form a long hook, and hung it from the ceiling over the tail stock, to hang the Foredom motor on it. I have a Jacobs chuck to fit the handpiece collet as well. Fun stuff!
Thank you very much! Hey, were you talking about the tool with the post and a plate that sits on the ways? If so, I came up with another method that seems to work better. ua-cam.com/video/HGAQHjzgs9c/v-deo.html
I did that a few years ago,exactly what you are doing--to make some sprockets,40 something teeth in half inch pitch and it was surprisingly easy..Thumbs up..
Cool... I figured somebody thought of the same idea. Cool on the sprockets! Lathe dials are the same, they look hard to make but they are surprisingly easy.
Hi Winky, That turned out to be the easiest thing I have made so far. I ordered a Jacobs Chuck with 3/8” Threads, had a 3/8” Rod and my Boring Bar Mount had a 3/8” clearance hole. I still need to make a adapter for my Tool Post so I can drill from the side. Great idea Winky, Thanks
I like the simplest soultions to a need. You have mastered that philosophy. I also like the old iron as well, I have a Clausing 111 Mk3a i am slow restoring as use it to do the work on parts that are need. I just aquired the stub gears for it to cut near metric threads that work great for non presison needs. Keep up the great work
Well, I just got my Jacobs Chuck, 2 different size 3/8” drive Tap Chucks, and even 2 Brass Balls in the Mail. I’m going to make a Tap Handle like yours, and mount my Jacobs Chuck on a Rod to use the Boring Head like this Video. Thanks for all the Great Projects Winky👍 I have to start out with the little ones first. I’m just getting really going on trying to Machine things.
Mark, there are plenty of ToolPost drilling videos out there but your tool overhang plate-upright support is one of those shop tricks that deliver that satisfied "Aaah" factor when used! Your simple three point indexer is equally clever. Thanks! Wakodahatchee Chris
I received your reply, Thank you. You know for me at least, for no more than it will be used I am thinking to just go ahead and simply put a brass or bronze bushing in for the thrust consideration. And let it push against a set of locking collars. That way it can be adjusted to use it on the carriage and on the cross slide as well. Your ideas are outstanding and certainly original. Thanks
It works fairly well but I've wiped out a few tool holders. A better tool holder would help but I started using a different method. ua-cam.com/video/HGAQHjzgs9c/v-deo.html
Amazing video Mark! I have one of those tool holders and would've NEVER thought to do this with it! Thanks to you, I will now!! Truly amazing.... thanks very much for sharing this!! -- Greg
Simple and functional: Especially for drilling the side holes shown toward the end of your video.. I had made something similar using a hole saw on the end of a shaft then mounted to an adjustable plate to set angles for cutting pipe for welding; like 45 degrees, etc. Once angle is set, hole saw size mounted, drill is attached and cut made.
Wow....I don't have a mill. Just a logan lathe and I have had issues drilling into 11/64 tool steel along the length of it exactly center. I want to put a set screw to hold a 1/16 drill bit inside it for my engraving machine. . This will be perfect for that. Can't thank you enough.
Just saw you using this in your latest video and had to search through your library to find it. This is clever. I need to add this to my list of things to build!
Hey there... it is very handy. I'm thinking about installing roller bearings. The sleeve bearing worked well for a while but now the center drill moves around a little.
@@WinkysWorkshop Lol. I just finished mine and it works great ! I used bronze hex stock so a little extra work. (it was hell trying to find a hex boring bar holder) 🤤
A live tooling spindle is a very useful addition to a lathe. Yours is about as simple as can be, but very functional. The one I built many years ago is self contained with the spindle running on 2 small Timken roller bearings I salvaged somewhere. To power it I used a 12 Volt windshield wiper motor and a timing belt plus 2 : 1 step down timing belt pulleys, again salvaged from some office equipment. These motors are very powerful and incredibly robust. To power it I had a shop power supply that would supply up to 30 Volts DC at 30 Amperes. This was built into the lathe bench, and the motor was plugged in with 2 banana plugs. Today I would utilize a Micro Wave oven transformer and rewind the secondary winding for 24 Volts or so. Use a full wave rectifier for 30 Amps to produce DC current. Vary the input Voltage to the transformer, 115 VAC, with a TRIAC full wave lamp dimmer. A dimmer good for 600 watts will do nicely, just make sure it is a full wave TRIAC dimmer. Anything else won't work. If you can lay your hands on a 10 Amp autotransformer such as a Variac, that would work well, also, to vary the input voltage. A spindle as described can be used to do very light milling also, to produce flats and small slots. Just make sure to clamp the lathe spindle securely for such work.
Wow... it sounds like you did it right. Mine has a little flex but I have had very good luck using it. The tapered bearing are reasonably priced now. Maybe I need to look at upgrading mine.
@@WinkysWorkshop Thanks for your interest, Winky! When I decided to build my cross drilling spindle I spent some time deliberating the design and usage thereof. Thus I wanted a spindle that was useful for accurate cross-drilling of work pieces, and axial drilling, too. I used a 1/4" capacity Jacobs drill chuck with a 3/8"-24 threaded bore. If I were to do it again I'd use a ER 11 collet extension holder. These are available with a 1/2" and a 5/8" dia. extension. The steel quick-change mounting block is L-shaped, with the lower leg pointing to the left. The long vertical leg has the dovetail on the right face to fit to the QCTP, and the horizontal leg is wide, thick, and long enough to hold the quill spindle assembly, which is parallel to the long leg. The reason for the L-shape is that the drill chuck jaws are in line with the top edge of the vertical leg in order to use drills that are otherwise too long to use for cross drilling. The hole in the QC tool holder for the quill was drilled and bored in situ on the lathe, with the edge of the short leg indicated parallel to the lathe Z axis. The work piece was pushed against the drill with the tailstock barrel and a piece of wood in between to allow through drilling without drilling into the tailstock! The drive motor is mounted on a plate clamped to the back end of the quill and thus is part of the quill assembly. Thus the spindle assembly can slide a little in the mounting block and, more importantly, it can rotate freely in that block when the locking cotter is loosened. This locking arrangement is as per a tailstock barrel clamp. This ability to rotate the quill in its mounting is important if the device is to be used for axial and radial drilling of the work piece. To facilitate this the holder is made symmetrical from top to bottom about the spindle centre line so that the block can be turned upside down, with the drill spindle always in vertical alignment with the lathe spindle. For radial drilling I simply align the left hand edge edge of the holder with the chuck front face using a 1-2-3 block. For axial drilling I simply align the the drill with an edge of the lathe bed by eye; for greater accuracy I use a dial indicator mounted on the lathe bed to align the edge of the block to the lathe Z axis. The ER 11 extension is hardened and ground, and can run directly on needle roller bearings. There should be a very slight interference between the spindle OD. and the bearing ID. This can be controlled with the interference between the Bearing OD. and the quill bore. A needle thrust bearing would also be required. I certainly found this devise useful and a real time saver when making steam fittings and pumps for my locomotive! If you decide to build a new device, let us know what you decide and how you make it. Good luck in all your work shop endeavours!
@@WinkysWorkshop I'll see what I can do. My entire set of QC tooling, including tool post, was shop-built in the early to mid 1990's because I could not justify the expense at that time.
I like it!!! This is going to be my next project. And I just subscribed. Thanks for taking your time to show us this.. Much simpler than some others I've seen, but just as effective!
If a bloke was keen he could use the side drilling adaptor with a small milling cutter and the indexing plate you made to cut splines / key ways etc using the lathe feed screw etc . That is perfect for ACCURATELY drilling / tapping centrally for telescopic sight mounts on rifles . Brilliant !
Add a variable speed sewing machine motor, a couple pulleys and some 3-6mm PU round belt and you've really got an effective tool. Mount the motor overhead like they do on modern rose engine lathes. They work beautifully!!
Thanks. Yes it works great. I still use my drill press for larger holes but when the hole is located in the lathe with a center drill the accuracy is much improved.
Fantastic Winky!!! Just beautiful. I was looking for a Radial and/or axial drills to be able to mount on my lathe . This is brilliant and it uses things that we already have. I am sure we all have a 12 volt drill in our toolbox that still works but was replaced by the 18 volt system.
Thanks, yes I've used this drill a lot. I usually drill pilot holes and finish the holes on the drill press. It's hard to get a lot of pressure with the hand drill. Also this setup and not really ridged enough for large holes.
That is brilliant! Thanks! Now I know how I will mount my Dremel on my little 6" blue Atlas lathe. You got me thinking! Thanks for the information and inspiration.
I am in search of an overhead drill for a lathe when I came across your video. I do have a similar holder that I can use to do a similar project for my lathe. I would like to see a video on how to make an overhead drill from a steady.
Hi, like this idea, If I may suggest for you to use that flat pice a friend milled you sliding on your bed, sunk a hole partially in in to support a rod from beneath the chuck jaw, that will assure its in a 90 degree angle and the same position for all holes, the op of the rod mau even have a U-Shape to fit around the chuck jaw to prevent movement.
Thanks William, I'm glad it worked well for you. I hope to an add on indexing wheel soon. I'm thinking a wheel with rows of 100 and 48 holes. With these holes you could drill hole patterns with 2, 3, 4, 5, 6, 8, 10, 12, 16, 20, etc... and also 100 for making lathe dials. I made dials using a 100 tooth saw blade a while back. It worked great.
The indexing trick is fantastic! And with a set of different length sticks it would be possible to have many precise divisions (6, 9, 12, etc.) just changing the starting point of the rotation. I have to dust my trigonometry books…
Good point. However, there were four reason I didn't do that. 1) I didn't have the bushing, 2) I could not find one long enough with the right bore, 3) I was worried the sintered bronze might not be strong enough for the clamping mechanism in the boring bar holder and 4) I had the brass, - Sure, I could have worked around a few of those... maybe make the shaft larger in diameter and reduce the ends for the chuck and drill. And I could have used a press fit and not used the clamp etc.. Thanks.
@@WinkysWorkshop Very good reasons to do it your way. I used the bronze bushing for the same reason you used brass. I had 2 the right size for a 1/2" shaft and my chuck was treaded 1/2" . You do have to be carful about clamping too tight with the bronze bushings, but the two I use don't slip in the clamp and the 1/2" shaft runs free. One goes in each end of the boring bar and they are about 1" long.
What a wonderful (I would call an invention) idea. Just lately came across your channel and am impressed with you genius approach to solving problems. Thank you for sharing your knowledge. On this particular idea, what would you say about setting up an arrangement with clamping bushings and a thrust bearing. Then use the carriage or the cross slide to drive the drill inward. For me I am not strong enough for drilling in steel for the larger drill sizes. Do you think it is worth trying? Thanks again.
I think that is an excellent idea and I have thought about doing the same. currently I use it for a small pilot holes and finish drilling on my drill press. I think the sleeve bearing is adequate rotation but a bearing for thrust would be ideal. You could use tapered roller bearings but for some reason they are very high priced. Larger tapered bearings are very cheap. The small thrust bearings are also cheap.
I sort of have it, mine doesn’t spin. My tailstock is very heavy to pull, so I have a drill chuck on the tool post. It goes to 10mm and is great for pecking :o) *I put a bar in the tool holder and a drill bit in the chuck to get the mount hole centred.
That is an excellent idea. I have that same tool holder that I do not use. I should make one of these and use the 1/2" chuck from an old corded drill motor I have been meaning to repair for 10 years but can't find the parts for. Thanks.
Hi Winky. I have the same tool holder the 250-104 and I have never used it. I found your idea ver useful. I have a Logan lathe 821 too. It is for restoring althought now it is very useful. Has you recorded some video with ideas for lathe plate locking and for divisors in the logan? Thanks.
Looks like s great method. Ive been a faith viewer for a long time. You are so unique in the ideas you present. Could you please name the app you used? There looks to be maybe 50 listed. That will take a lot of time to sort out the best one.
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Wow. I like your designs, they are solid additions to your tool. You exhibit creativity all over the place. In addition your presentations are well edited. Well done.
Thanks Stan!
Really functional extremely simple design. The toolpost acts as a guide only. No stresses no bending. Congrats
Thanks, I'm sure a mill could do things more accurate but this method works well for most things.
Very clever use of simple tools to carry out what can be a difficult thing to get right. Inspiring!
Thanks, this video is 5 yrs old but I still use this setup frequently.
I align my tool holders, especially the cutoff tool, by bumping it flush against the face of the chuck while the tool post is loose, then I tighten the tool post.
Awesome. I am a machinist, started in 1995, and I like your modifications.
Thanks Stephen. hopefully I'll be posting an indexing method within a month.
Wow, I just watched your 100 and 44 index video and this, and I am amazed at your ability to figure out how to do things with common stuff laying around. Like I want to try some gear cutting, but I don't want to spend an arm and a leg for fancy equipment if I don't need it, since I'm just a hobbyist.
I've thought about cutting gears too. I'm sure it could be done in the lathe although I don't know much about tooth profiles. I do know you can buy cutters to use in a mill which could be adapted.
Necessity is the mother of invention. There are always new and ingenious ways of achieving a desired end result. Thank you for sharing.
Very nice! I did something similar. Made a tool holder on the mill like yours, but with a 1" hole, and mounted my Foredom handpiece in it for internal and external grinding. I also used a piece of 1/4" steel rod to form a long hook, and hung it from the ceiling over the tail stock, to hang the Foredom motor on it.
I have a Jacobs chuck to fit the handpiece collet as well. Fun stuff!
It's good to see people who see outside of the box!
Mr Winky, your cutoff tool support is fantastic, you have the greatest ideas you are sharing, Bravo, and Cheers from Florida, Paul
Thank you very much! Hey, were you talking about the tool with the post and a plate that sits on the ways? If so, I came up with another method that seems to work better. ua-cam.com/video/HGAQHjzgs9c/v-deo.html
I like the cutting off tool rest. Not seen that before. The side drill application is very neat. BobUK
I also made a video on the cutoff tool support if you are interested.
I did that a few years ago,exactly what you are doing--to make some sprockets,40 something teeth in half inch pitch and it was surprisingly easy..Thumbs up..
Cool... I figured somebody thought of the same idea. Cool on the sprockets! Lathe dials are the same, they look hard to make but they are surprisingly easy.
Thanks for this video. I have that same tool holder that came with my AXA qctp. It was gathering dust in the drawer. Great idea!
Winkey, brilliant ideas and genius idea for simple indexing using the Chuck jaws, ‘don’t laugh you said’, my jaw hit the deck superb idea.
Thanks, it's also surprisingly accurate!
I the drill press work and the drilling in the lathe hope to see more thanks for sharing Doug.
Very nice & simple.👍
Your parting tool mod caught my eye when I watched you make the indexing wheel! On to that one now!😂
Hi Winky, That turned out to be the easiest thing I have made so far. I ordered a Jacobs Chuck with 3/8” Threads, had a 3/8” Rod and my Boring Bar Mount had a 3/8” clearance hole. I still need to make a adapter for my Tool Post so I can drill from the side. Great idea Winky, Thanks
Glad you liked this. I have used it many time and you're right, very simple!
I like the simplest soultions to a need. You have mastered that philosophy. I also like the old iron as well, I have a Clausing 111 Mk3a i am slow restoring as use it to do the work on parts that are need. I just aquired the stub gears for it to cut near metric threads that work great for non presison needs. Keep up the great work
Very creative! I'll have to make one now. Try using the tailstock spindle to square up the tool holder, or a square of the chuck. Thanks for sharing.
Thanks for the comment James, and yes, just to speed things up in the video I didn't align things very well. The chuck works great.
A nifty little setup you have made.
Thanks, it's amazingly accurate if you stay close to the work
Well, I just got my Jacobs Chuck, 2 different size 3/8” drive Tap Chucks, and even 2 Brass Balls in the Mail. I’m going to make a Tap Handle like yours, and mount my Jacobs Chuck on a Rod to use the Boring Head like this Video. Thanks for all the Great Projects Winky👍 I have to start out with the little ones first. I’m just getting really going on trying to Machine things.
Cool! Thanks and good luck.
Reviewing your old videos.Thank you for posting.
Cool... I've used this tool post drill a lot. I've thought about making one with tapered bearings to make it more accurate.
Winky you just helped me out a lot. I have that tool holder and can make these fixtures without a mill. Thank you!
Glad I could help! I use this set up a lot!
A flanged sleeve bearing, that is a good idea, perfect. That is the way I am gong to go. Thank you.
Excellent!
A practical, easy-to-make tool for accurate index drilling. Thanks.
You're welcome! I've used the heck out of this drill.
That looks really handy. Great idea. It’s going to be my next Project. Thanks Winky for all the improvements you come up with.
You’re welcome 😊 It's handy to have.
Mark, there are plenty of ToolPost drilling videos out there but your tool overhang plate-upright support is one of those shop tricks that deliver that satisfied "Aaah" factor when used! Your simple three point indexer is equally clever. Thanks!
Wakodahatchee Chris
Cool, thanks
I enjoy the simplicity of the build thanks
For sure it is simple. I've used it a lot and the sleeve has some wear. I think I need to bearings to support the shaft.
UA-cam needs more people like you! Subbed and excited to see all your videos!
I received your reply, Thank you. You know for me at least, for no more than it will be used I am thinking to just go ahead and simply put a brass or bronze bushing in for the thrust consideration. And let it push against a set of locking collars. That way it can be adjusted to use it on the carriage and on the cross slide as well. Your ideas are outstanding and certainly original. Thanks
I agree... maybe a flanged sleeve bearing
Love the cut off support.
It works fairly well but I've wiped out a few tool holders. A better tool holder would help but I started using a different method. ua-cam.com/video/HGAQHjzgs9c/v-deo.html
Amazing video Mark! I have one of those tool holders and would've NEVER thought to do this with it! Thanks to you, I will now!! Truly amazing.... thanks very much for sharing this!! -- Greg
Thanks Greg, it works great... perfect for bolting a disk to a hub :o)
What's new Greg?
Simple and functional: Especially for drilling the side holes shown toward the end of your video.. I had made something similar using a hole saw on the end of a shaft then mounted to an adjustable plate to set angles for cutting pipe for welding; like 45 degrees, etc. Once angle is set, hole saw size mounted, drill is attached and cut made.
Cool idea on the pipe!
Wow....I don't have a mill. Just a logan lathe and I have had issues drilling into 11/64 tool steel along the length of it exactly center. I want to put a set screw to hold a 1/16 drill bit inside it for my engraving machine. . This will be perfect for that. Can't thank you enough.
Just saw you using this in your latest video and had to search through your library to find it. This is clever. I need to add this to my list of things to build!
Hey there... it is very handy. I'm thinking about installing roller bearings. The sleeve bearing worked well for a while but now the center drill moves around a little.
Great idea. I'll try my hand at making one of these. Looking forward to the indexing wheel project. That's something I'd like to make.
Brilliant in its simplicity. Thanks.
It works best for drilling a pilot hole but I have used this thing a lot.
Wow, just found your channel and I am very impressed. Looking forward to watching all the rest of your content. Thanks for sharing! Joel.....
You are inflating my ego... Ha, but thanks again!
Good thinking. I'll have to copy that for my AXA over sized boring bar holders. Thanks for the videos!
Gotta love functional simplicity.
Thanks, its a little wimpy but very handy.
@@WinkysWorkshop Lol. I just finished mine and it works great ! I used bronze hex stock so a little extra work. (it was hell trying to find a hex boring bar holder) 🤤
@@oldhick9047 Ha... never seen one either
A live tooling spindle is a very useful addition to a lathe. Yours is about as simple as can be, but very functional.
The one I built many years ago is self contained with the spindle running on 2 small Timken roller bearings I salvaged somewhere. To power it I used a 12 Volt windshield wiper motor and a timing belt plus 2 : 1 step down timing belt pulleys, again salvaged from some office equipment. These motors are very powerful and incredibly robust.
To power it I had a shop power supply that would supply up to 30 Volts DC at 30 Amperes. This was built into the lathe bench, and the motor was plugged in with 2 banana plugs.
Today I would utilize a Micro Wave oven transformer and rewind the secondary winding for 24 Volts or so. Use a full wave rectifier for 30 Amps to produce DC current. Vary the input Voltage to the transformer, 115 VAC, with a TRIAC full wave lamp dimmer. A dimmer good for 600 watts will do nicely, just make sure it is a full wave TRIAC dimmer. Anything else won't work.
If you can lay your hands on a 10 Amp autotransformer such as a Variac, that would work well, also, to vary the input voltage.
A spindle as described can be used to do very light milling also, to produce flats and small slots. Just make sure to clamp the lathe spindle securely for such work.
Wow... it sounds like you did it right. Mine has a little flex but I have had very good luck using it. The tapered bearing are reasonably priced now. Maybe I need to look at upgrading mine.
@@WinkysWorkshop Thanks for your interest, Winky!
When I decided to build my cross drilling spindle I spent some time deliberating the design and usage thereof. Thus I wanted a spindle that was useful for accurate cross-drilling of work pieces, and axial drilling, too. I used a 1/4" capacity Jacobs drill chuck with a 3/8"-24 threaded bore.
If I were to do it again I'd use a ER 11 collet extension holder. These are available with a 1/2" and a 5/8" dia. extension.
The steel quick-change mounting block is L-shaped, with the lower leg pointing to the left. The long vertical leg has the dovetail on the right face to fit to the QCTP, and the horizontal leg is wide, thick, and long enough to hold the quill spindle assembly, which is parallel to the long leg.
The reason for the L-shape is that the drill chuck jaws are in line with the top edge of the vertical leg in order to use drills that are otherwise too long to use for cross drilling.
The hole in the QC tool holder for the quill was drilled and bored in situ on the lathe, with the edge of the short leg indicated parallel to the lathe Z axis. The work piece was pushed against the drill with the tailstock barrel and a piece of wood in between to allow through drilling without drilling into the tailstock!
The drive motor is mounted on a plate clamped to the back end of the quill and thus is part of the quill assembly.
Thus the spindle assembly can slide a little in the mounting block and, more importantly, it can rotate freely in that block when the locking cotter is loosened. This locking arrangement is as per a tailstock barrel clamp.
This ability to rotate the quill in its mounting is important if the device is to be used for axial and radial drilling of the work piece.
To facilitate this the holder is made symmetrical from top to bottom about the spindle centre line so that the block can be turned upside down, with the drill spindle always in vertical alignment with the lathe spindle.
For radial drilling I simply align the left hand edge edge of the holder with the chuck front face using a 1-2-3 block.
For axial drilling I simply align the the drill with an edge of the lathe bed by eye; for greater accuracy I use a dial indicator mounted on the lathe bed to align the edge of the block to the lathe Z axis.
The ER 11 extension is hardened and ground, and can run directly on needle roller bearings. There should be a very slight interference between the spindle OD. and the bearing ID. This can be controlled with the interference between the Bearing OD. and the quill bore. A needle thrust bearing would also be required.
I certainly found this devise useful and a real time saver when making steam fittings and pumps for my locomotive!
If you decide to build a new device, let us know what you decide and how you make it.
Good luck in all your work shop endeavours!
@@BasementEngineer I'd love to see some pictures winkysworkshop.GMX.com
@@BasementEngineer Also... I watched a few of your videos... LOVE these trans! Amazing!
@@WinkysWorkshop I'll see what I can do. My entire set of QC tooling, including tool post, was shop-built in the early to mid 1990's because I could not justify the expense at that time.
I have enough stuff to do this, but never thought of it. Winky is an idea man.
Thank you sir. It's a handy thing to have when you need it.
I like it!!! This is going to be my next project. And I just subscribed. Thanks for taking your time to show us this.. Much simpler than some others I've seen, but just as effective!
I always love the creativity. Thanks for sharing it with us.
Un grand bravo de France !
A big bravo from France !
Just found your channel, & subscribed straight away. All good projects,& very well presented. Plenty of food for thought.THANKS & Happy New Year
If a bloke was keen he could use the side drilling adaptor with a small milling cutter and the indexing plate you made to cut splines / key ways etc using the lathe feed screw etc . That is perfect for ACCURATELY drilling / tapping centrally for telescopic sight mounts on rifles . Brilliant !
I never thought about splines or key ways! This would require a lot more than a brass sleeve bearing but it's an interesting idea.
Add a variable speed sewing machine motor, a couple pulleys and some 3-6mm PU round belt and you've really got an effective tool. Mount the motor overhead like they do on modern rose engine lathes. They work beautifully!!
That would work although I like the hand drill... very powerful and simple.
WoW.. So clever.. I've always pulled the job out of the lathe and stuck it on a drill press.. but this is way more accurate.
Thanks. Yes it works great. I still use my drill press for larger holes but when the hole is located in the lathe with a center drill the accuracy is much improved.
Man you really think outside the box,
I will be making me one of those.
Great info thanks.
Thanks, and you're welcome!
Splendid video Winky! Awesome idea. Thanx
That is fantastic... I'm self taught... so these things are very cool...
Once again amazed at your creative mind!
Thanks!
Fantastic Winky!!! Just beautiful. I was looking for a Radial and/or axial drills to be able to mount on my lathe . This is brilliant and it uses things that we already have. I am sure we all have a 12 volt drill in our toolbox that still works but was replaced by the 18 volt system.
Thanks, yes I've used this drill a lot. I usually drill pilot holes and finish the holes on the drill press. It's hard to get a lot of pressure with the hand drill. Also this setup and not really ridged enough for large holes.
@@WinkysWorkshop Ah yes. Still fantastic!! Better than the consumer grade ones on eBay from what I have seen.
@@Biokemist-o3k Thanks
Another great sensible useful video. Please keep them coming. Especially like this excellent Tool Post Drill.
Thanks, I'm gad you like it!
Brilliant idea, and easy to make Thanks for sharing. And Happy New Year!
Love his indexing tool. And now I can drill four evenly spaced holes with my 4 Jaw chuck! (needed on my model steam engine I am building)
EXCELLENT!
Genius says, "don't laugh." This works. Amazing. Yes, of course it works. You're a true gem!!!!!!!
Haha.. you are kind, thanks!
That is brilliant! Thanks! Now I know how I will mount my Dremel on my little 6" blue Atlas lathe. You got me thinking! Thanks for the information and inspiration.
Yeah... I mounted a dremel to grind a chuck too. Thanks for the comment!
👍👍👍: the indexing tool is extremely efficient!
True, thanks for watching.
I am in search of an overhead drill for a lathe when I came across your video. I do have a similar holder that I can use to do a similar project for my lathe.
I would like to see a video on how to make an overhead drill from a steady.
You can set the tool post drill up to drill the side of stock as well although drilling from the top might be slightly more accurate.
A very practical idea. Thanks for sharing!
Good trick ill do that too on my lathe nice work.
Hi, like this idea, If I may suggest for you to use that flat pice a friend milled you sliding on your bed, sunk a hole partially in in to support a rod from beneath the chuck jaw, that will assure its in a 90 degree angle and the same position for all holes, the op of the rod mau even have a U-Shape to fit around the chuck jaw to prevent movement.
Thanks! I built one today and it helped immensely. solved a big problem.
Thanks William, I'm glad it worked well for you. I hope to an add on indexing wheel soon. I'm thinking a wheel with rows of 100 and 48 holes. With these holes you could drill hole patterns with 2, 3, 4, 5, 6, 8, 10, 12, 16, 20, etc... and also 100 for making lathe dials. I made dials using a 100 tooth saw blade a while back. It worked great.
When you do, please make a video.
I will.
wow fantastic thanks love the indexing!!
Learnt a lot from your video. Great idea. Thanks.
Good idea! Simple and it works.
Yes it does! Maybe not perfect but adequate for most projects.
The indexing trick is fantastic! And with a set of different length sticks it would be possible to have many precise divisions (6, 9, 12, etc.) just changing the starting point of the rotation. I have to dust my trigonometry books…
And the right length stick positioning the jaw on the front side as well as the back gets an easy hex pattern
those are some useful tricks sir!
I'd hazard a guess it'd be convenient for feeding tiny drills and taps by hand into a part rotating in the chuck.
That's a brilliant idea!
Thanks, I've used it a lot
FYI you can buy off the shelf bronze bushings that will work in the 3/4 hole of the boring bar holder and even one with a thrust flange.
Good point. However, there were four reason I didn't do that. 1) I didn't have the bushing, 2) I could not find one long enough with the right bore, 3) I was worried the sintered bronze might not be strong enough for the clamping mechanism in the boring bar holder and 4) I had the brass, - Sure, I could have worked around a few of those... maybe make the shaft larger in diameter and reduce the ends for the chuck and drill. And I could have used a press fit and not used the clamp etc.. Thanks.
@@WinkysWorkshop Very good reasons to do it your way. I used the bronze bushing for the same reason you used brass. I had 2 the right size for a 1/2" shaft and my chuck was treaded 1/2" . You do have to be carful about clamping too tight with the bronze bushings, but the two I use don't slip in the clamp and the 1/2" shaft runs free. One goes in each end of the boring bar and they are about 1" long.
@@bkailua1224 - Perfect, I could have done the same and even turned down the shaft for my 3/8" chuck.
That's a great tool and an excellent video. Thanks for sharing! Subscribed
I think this is a great idea, thanks for sharing.
Thanks for watching!
Very clever! I want one. Thanks
Great Video, Love the Indexing !
What a wonderful (I would call an invention) idea. Just lately came across your channel and am impressed with you genius approach to solving problems. Thank you for sharing your knowledge.
On this particular idea, what would you say about setting up an arrangement with clamping bushings and a thrust bearing. Then use the carriage or the cross slide to drive the drill inward. For me I am not strong enough for drilling in steel for the larger drill sizes. Do you think it is worth trying? Thanks again.
I think that is an excellent idea and I have thought about doing the same. currently I use it for a small pilot holes and finish drilling on my drill press. I think the sleeve bearing is adequate rotation but a bearing for thrust would be ideal. You could use tapered roller bearings but for some reason they are very high priced. Larger tapered bearings are very cheap. The small thrust bearings are also cheap.
Another nice tool and thanks for sharing. Later and all the best.
Great stuff Winky from NZ
Thank you sir!
Ingenious. Thanks for sharing.
I sort of have it, mine doesn’t spin. My tailstock is very heavy to pull, so I have a drill chuck on the tool post. It goes to 10mm and is great for pecking :o) *I put a bar in the tool holder and a drill bit in the chuck to get the mount hole centred.
Cool idea!
Very clever! Very useful!
Glad you think so!
That is an excellent idea. I have that same tool holder that I do not use. I should make one of these and use the 1/2" chuck from an old corded drill motor I have been meaning to repair for 10 years but can't find the parts for. Thanks.
Thanks, go for it! You will like it.
@@WinkysWorkshop I did build one for my AXA size QCTP, works very well, thanks for sharing your build. I'm using mine on my NOVA DVR-XP wood lathe.
@@bobd. Very cool, good idea on a wood lathe!
Very simple very useful I like it 👍👍
muy buen trabajo a cuantas revoluciones pone el torno
I ain't laughing, I'm subscribing, simple effective indexing. Thanks
Thanks! Glad you like it.
Pretty nifty ideas.
Thanks!
Veeeeery clever. And relatively simple!
Thanks!
Enjoyable video. Great ideas. Thanks. Subscribed!
Very elegant and easy.
Hi Winky. I have the same tool holder the 250-104 and I have never used it. I found your idea ver useful. I have a Logan lathe 821 too. It is for restoring althought now it is very useful. Has you recorded some video with ideas for lathe plate locking and for divisors in the logan? Thanks.
I sold the logan but made this gear indexer for my south bend. Its simple and effective. ua-cam.com/video/xauJcjrINy0/v-deo.htmlsi=M5mZEgIYpRTGUhJh
Nice... Tool post drill coming up..:)
This just made me have about 7Krillion ideas! Thanx man! G>
Cool!
More than 30 or 40 overwhelms me!
Good work. Hoping 2018 treats you good.
Great video
Thanks!
Great trip. Is that a logan 820? The cutting tool idea is great too. Im subscribing.
Thanks. The lathe is a Logan 200 but I have an 820 weighting to be restored.
Great, Thank You for sharing.
My pleasure!
Looks like s great method. Ive been a faith viewer for a long time. You are so unique in the ideas you present. Could you please name the app you used? There looks to be maybe 50 listed. That will take a lot of time to sort out the best one.
App? Are you talking about the protractor app? If so, I can't remember, I got a new phone, sorry.
@@WinkysWorkshop Thank you for the reply. I believe I got lucky after the first 3 attempts. I believe its called Smart Protractor by Smart Tools Co.
@@stephenpowell3284 That's great!
Great job. Thank you for sharing
You're welcome. It can be very useful. Super simple too!