Multi Milling Drilling Grinding Tool Myford & Mini Lathe Tool Post Drill
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- Опубліковано 5 жов 2024
- The latest version of my multi purpose quick change tool post drill. This one has energy efficient metal shielded roller bearings and a bearing at the back with an aluminium housing cover. (UPDATE 4/5/16)...PLEASE READ COMMENTS BELOW REGARDING THE BACK BEARING & HOUSING.
NOTE:- The ER11 Collet Chuck with the 8mm x 150mm Shaft available here
www.banggood.c...
The Special Ground Already Made ER11 collet chuck assembly for this tool is available here:-
www.banggood.com/C8-ER11A-150L-Straight-Shank-Collet-Chuck-Holder-CNC-Milling-Extension-Tool-p-1074425.html?p=SO071514950915201710
It's a pitty the collet chuck assembly is out of order, no dates for new arrivals.
Banggood Health Protection -- bit.ly/33tNTBx
Banggood Health&Care Protection -- bit.ly/3d7QpSy
I made one with the small Jacob's chuck. I make lock collars and now I can get the holes cross drilled perfect. Thank you so much for sharing. Mine works fantastic and I had everything I needed in my shop. Norman
Hi Norman That's great. I hope you saw the latest version of this tool and how I use it.
ua-cam.com/video/1mr3I_8HnJQ/v-deo.html
Regards Steve
Steve, Thank you for the update on the tool design. That part about where you just take the bush off for tapping is in itself brilliant. I had in my mind that I would have to "follow after" with one hand and operate the drill with the other, a bit clumsy. But you are correct just remove the bush and let it follow on it's own, perfect.
After watching your other videos and seeing how useful this tool is I seriously admire your creativity and ingenuity. This is a super handy tool and not mega hard to build. Thanks for sharing so much excellent knowledge. I will definitely have to copy this build.
Hi Curt, Thanks I'm pleased you like it and that you are going to make one. I have found it to be one of my most used tools. Hope you have seen the latest version video, using a brass bush rather than the thrust bearing on the back. It makes it better for screw tapping. Regards Steve
Well done Steve, from someone who makes his own tools to another, it's very satisfying watching someone get creative and pop out a quality item. Subbed
I am going to make myself one of these my friend . Another excellent build by you
Hi Dave. Thanks. I have made several different types over the years. The tòolpost drill is one of my most used tools on the lathe. Regards Steve
Brilliant. So simple, yet effective. A great project for a newcomer to machining like me. I can see many uses for it. Thanks Steve - you've inspired me to make one!
Saw a few of your other posts too - looks like I had better give my ML7 a coat of paint.... Cheers
Thanks. I have made this tool-post drill better since I made this video. I have taken the bearing off the back end and replaced it with a brass bush. You can see it being used on my knife making marking gauge video I have uploaded. It is much better for doing screw tapping now, as you can see in that video....Regards Steve
This is a brilliant design, I can see this would really speed up some of my work where the holes on round work could be worked right in the lathe. Just brilliant, thank you for sharing this design. And thank you for the information on where to find the collet.
+Glenn Felpel Thanks, pleased you like it. It's one of my most used tools. If you want to get a good flexible shaft to drive the tool you can get those on Ebay. The best ones have an oil nipple at each end...advertised as:-
915MM 36" LONG FLEXIBLE FLEXI DRIVE DRILL SHAFT EXTENSION - KEYLESS CHUCK You can get them for about 10 pounds.
I just changed the keyless chuck on mine to a bigger one that was easy to handle.
+Glenn Felpel Hi Glenn, I have made changes to this tool now. I have done away with the 'thrust' bearing and housing at the back of the tool and just use a brass bush locked onto the tool spindle with a brass screw to hold the tool together. It is much simpler to make, it runs better and if you do screw tapping with the tool, you can just take the bush off and allow the tool spindle free forward movement through the roller bearings, as the screw thread is cut. Regards Steve
Thank You Steve. I see now in this video that you used a Unimat vice for your holder. Nice! I think the ER11 is a brilliant choice and your suggestion below for an ebay buy with a shaft is much appreciated. The versatility of this design is off the charts at many levels IMHO. Thank you for sharing it with us! ~PJ
+pjsalchemy Thanks, yes it is the unimat vice. I have found it is about the best vice for the mini lathe for this purpose. They seem quite hard to get hold of now and I haven't found an alternative like it.
Bearings Used SKF Energy Efficient Metal Shielded (608 ZZ C3 E2 8x22x7mm 608zz) Sold on Ebay.
Hey Steve, now I watched this Video and the one with all the improvements several times and I'm really looking forward to build one on my own. Thanks so much!
+Claas Meyer Hi Claas if you make one you will find it is one of the most useful tòols to use on the lathe. Thanks for watching Regards Steve
Thank you Steve, I appreciate the feedback.
Would you consider having an option to leave the spindle sliding in the holder which is then just a guide and applying all of the feed and thrust from the battery drill. Much quicker than using the cross slide for non critical operations like drilling and also good for tapping when the spindle can follow the tap without worrying about adjusting the cross slide.
+dense505crew Thanks. Yes that's a great idea. You could even just have a spindle that goes through a housing with just brass bearings that would do the same job. This would allow you to make it having one diameter and not have the larger bearing housing part on the end, therefore allowing the tool to go back further into the tool holder. This would give more clearance on the cross slide. I made mine to have a variety of drives so that I didn't have to use more than one tool holder. I think now, I will buy another tool holder and make another one for the battery drill and quick drilling and tapping operations. Thanks again.
Isn't the thrust bearing on the wrong end, otherwise this is a great tool that I will have to make as I can see a lot of applications for it.:)
+Ralf Boyke Hi If you put a thrust bearing on the front you would lose probably another 15-20mm travel between the tool and the work. When I designed and made this tool I did so to be able to use it on the Myford and the Chinese Mini Lathe. If you are familiar with the Mini Lathe you will know that you are very limited on cross slide travel. So you have to take this into consideration when making this tool.
In theory you don't even need a thrust bearing even at the back.. I have just used one basically to trap the spindle in the housing and stop any forward movement, especially if using an electric drill directly onto the spindle to drive it. Like I have said before, a bush locked onto the spindle works equally as well.
If you make one you will be surprised at what a great tool it is. It is rock solid and does everything and more than I expected it to do! They are very easy and cheap to produce. Plus you have the advantage of using different types of tools to drive it. (See my other videos)
I have tried the other fixtures that are sold to hold the Dremel type machines and have found they are basically useless, they are not rigid enough for precision work, especially when machining and milling steel.
Great minds think alike,
I have been building mine as a stand alone QCTP block, mainly to allow for a 50.8 tapered head bearing, 35mm angular ball tail bearing, and a morse 3 down the shaft,
can turn into a radius turner, rotary broaching head, and tool post milling attachment, and if you stick it on the mill vise, can be used as a spindexer, an well as a tool and cutter grinder attachment to the mill
wonderfull bit of kit, although i am a little puzzled as to why you didnt put the thrust bearing touching behind the head bearing
Hi Adam, I re-made this tool since this video. I discarded the thrust bearing altogether and just use a brass bush on the back. (see my video ua-cam.com/video/1mr3I_8HnJQ/v-deo.html There is no need for a head thrust bearing for what I use it for...drilling, milling & screw tapping etc. Also just having a an adjustable bush on the back of the spindle allows me to loosen it and then the drill spindle can move forward freely as the threads are cut.
that concept is slick i like it have to build it that thrust Bering looks like a bering in a bicycle neck tube but the 2 outter parts i think i can make with a thick washer and useing my die grinder make all the dimples on one side then put the Bering between the modified washers to look and work like the thrust bering you have and i have a Jacobs chuck i got that a garage sale years ago in a box of a hodgepodge tools never knew what it was till i started watching your videos your the master and we that watch the videos are the students learning about lathes and there tools and techniques
36,000 subscribers ! Go Steve go !
Hi Steve, I really like your multi purpose quick change tool post drill. I have the parts to build one. I am also interested in the Banggood spindle / motor clamps but cannot find them individually. Please post a part number for the 52mm size. Thank you. Ray Wilcox
I also see the thrust bearing on the wrong end here. The usual thrust forces would be when the cross slide is feeding into the work. These would also be the larger thrust forces the spindle would experience.
+dense505crew Like I've already stated, a few times now, if you read the previous comments. This isn't actually being used as a thrust bearing as such. It is basically to hold the components together. It is quite unnecessary to have a thrust bearing on the front anyway and if you had one you would lose another 15 to 20 mm of travel on the cross slide.
You have to look at the whole aspect of this set up when making the tool and take all these things into consideration. I appreciate your knowledge of the correct use of thrust bearings, which most people should know,... but like I say, I'm not using the bearing for its intended purpose, but as a means to hold the tool together.
+Steve Jordan The video would have been better with a commentary really, to explain the use of the component parts used and the limitations of cross slide travel etc when making the tool.
+dense505crew I have taken the 'thrust' bearing off of these now as they actually run better with just a brass bush to hold them together. The brass bush can then be taken off to allow the spindle to move forward through the roller bearings for battery drilling or tapping ops. It is much better and obviously easier to make.
Love it will be making 2!!
Thank you for taking the time to make these videos. They are excellent. Could you please go into a little more detail on the machining of the steel bearing housing? I think I can do it, but I'm not a machinist. Is there an alternate approach?
Hi Thanks. I made my prototype ones out of aluminium which can be easier to make and work perfectly. If you do this just make sure you choose an alloy that is easy to machine, like those used in the aerospace industry. An example is 6082 or 6082T6 Grade. You can get bar offcuts for reasonable prices on Ebay.
I may do another video on the housing sometime. Regards Steve
Unless you use it in the off side you have it backwards in the univise.
Did I miss something? Why not clamp the bearing assembly directly in the quick change tool post? If you made the bearing assembly out of a piece of square stock, you could clamp that in the qctp directly, and eliminate the tiny vice.
Hi Douglas, If you put the bearing assembly directly into the tool post there isn't enough travel on the cross slide to get the tool back far enough. The vice is fitted to a piece of long half inch square bar which can be set further back in the tool post, giving just enough room for the small Jacobs chuck or the ER collet chuck plus the length of the bit being used.
The small vice set in this way can be used for many other lathe ops as well, such as a quick holding device for small milling operations eliminating the set up of a milling table on the lathe. Also I use it when using a slitting saw to allow enough room on the mini lathe cross slide.
I hope to do another video on this tool soon with commentary to explain this and the changes I've made to the back bearing since making this video. You can see the latest version of this tool being used on my knife scribe video.
Regards, Steve
Hi, what a fantastic idea and great workmanship. Would love to try this project myself however I wish to know how you make the main housing please. Thanks
Hi Thanks for watching. I have a video on this...See the one 'How To Make A Press Fit Bearing Housing'....Regards Steve
Thanks for that. Just a two question I have please. Is the reason that you turn down the diameter of the stock just so that you get the right height? I found the bearings that you use for your jig which are 7x22x8mm. What size do you turn down the diameter to? Thanks again and keep your ideas coming :)
La grapodina va adelante , la herramienta hace fuerza con el frente , disculpen, un abrazo
This is amazing i am building and spm, iam not a machinist rather an end user. Can you please tell me what is the purpose of thrust bearing here?
I made this one a long time ago. I make them now without the thrust bearing which was used when pushing the spindle forward with the drill. I use the lathe slide only now to advance the tool. Regards Steve
Hello sir,
Congratulations on your excellent videos, very informative and very well presented.
Could you please inform me. On your presentation page there are 2 drilling systems: with pliers and with a drill chuck. Would you have a link to buy the chuck + axle system. I can not find it.
Thank you in advance and good luck.
P. K.
Hi Paul I made the spindle for the chuck. The thread is a common type on small chucks it is a 3/8 x 24 UNF . You can get these on Ebay or Banggood China.
Hello Steve. Love this tool. Thanks for providing this and the other videos detailing its construction and use. I see many such ER collet chucks available on Ebay from China/Hong Kong. I am wondering about their quality though? Is that where you got yours? Many thanks. Cheers, Sarah
Hi Sarah Thanks. I buy most of my tools now on Ebay from China/Hong Kong, if I do not need them too quickly. (within 2 weeks) The tools that the Ebay business & website sellers in the UK and other countries are selling all come from there and India now. They import the tools in bulk and then re-sell them with inflated prices for profit. The quality of these tools are excellent. I bought a carbide insert tool recently from China and it cost 6 pounds. This was including postage. The same tool sold on Ebay by UK sellers is about 27 pounds!
Those small collet chucks are as good as anything I have used in the past, in the aerospace industry. So do not hesitate to buy them if you see them from China at these low prices.
Also everything I have bought on Ebay from those countries has arrived so far, although sometimes they take a bit longer than 2 weeks to arrive. Regards Steve
Hi again. Thanks for getting back to me! Ok, that's great to hear. Currently, I have my pendant drill on the tools post (I am a jeweller) but that means I am restricted to the 2.3mm shank tool bits. Swapping this out for an ER set up will make life so much easier - and cheaper in the long run for cutting tools. Thanks heaps. Cheers, Sarah
The way that is assembled, is the thrust bearing taking any axial load? I would have put it just behind the chuck.
Hi Robert, This tool has been re-designed. There is no need for the thrust bearing at all, just a brass collar on the back. See the new version here. ua-cam.com/video/1mr3I_8HnJQ/v-deo.html Regards Steve
Thanks for the reply Steve. As you say, with a good deep track or angular contact ball race it isn't needed. Good tool though!
I do not see the need for a thrust bearing ? or did I miss something I am just learning so what do I know Thanks for some great Ideas!!! -I just read your comment below Thanks I did not think it was needed
Hi Steve. Not to be a putts, but it seems to me that it would be better to have the thrust bearing just behind the chuck/collet. What about it?
Hi Gary, This is an old video. There is no need for a thrust bearing at all. I just use it with the internal roller bearings.
The thrust bearing does not appear to be taking up the thrust of the drilling bit
Hi Steve, well done. Just a small question, how does the thrust bearing absorb axial loads? Like when you are pushing a drill bit into some work. The rear cover floats with the spindle.
Hi Peter, this one is old design. I made all the newer models without a thrust bearing as it is not needed either way. Regards Steve
Hmmm, do the thrust beraing fill any function like that? Shouldn't it be placed just behind the chuck to transfer axial load to the tool holder?
I had the same question about the thrust bearing, figured I couldn't be the only one, so I scrolled until I found it.
I think it can not serve its purpose unless there is a shoulder on the shaft for it to press against. That must be why it was left off of subsequent iterations.
Упорный подшипник надо ставить со стороны патрона , там где вы его поставили он вообще не работает. Все сделали хорошо а вот с подшипником как так получилось не понимаю.
Steve, I a new to Model Engineering and would like to make your Milling Drill. I understand the concept and am wondering if you have more detailed plans of the project? I too have a Myford (Super 7) and a Seig C3 Mini Lathe. ''Tis would be a great addition to my inventory of tools. Regards, Tom
Hi Tom I do not have any more detailed plans like drawings etc. I find that sort of thing very time consuming and do not use set plans nowadays.
When making this tool I just bought the 100mm vice and bearings, (see these in my other videos on this tool), and just machine everything to fit these. It is very straight forward and you can make it to whatever specifications you like.
As long as it fits the vice, the bearings are push fit in the housing.The 8mm spindle is a nice fit in the bearings and there is clearance on the diameter of the housing through-hole. Also keep it as true as possible from end to end.
If I gave a load of measurements it would just make it harder to produce. Also all the ones I have made, these are not all exactly the same, but vary in the outer dimensions. Regards Steve
Hi Steve,
I've seen a number of your videos and you present a good product.
On the subject of this TP drill/mandrel it would save the cost of the vice if you used a rectangular bar for the body that would fit into the tool holder slot. You can vary the width of the bar to achieve the clearance you spoke of elsewhere .
Also Banggood supply a kit with shaft, chuck, grinding disc adapter with wrenches, bearing block, two pulleys and toothed belt to make your own for about $6.. plus a piddling amount for postage.
Hi Steve,
Is the aluminium cover secured to the outer part of the thrust race?
Great piece of engineering I will make one.
Cheers.
+allen gentz Hi Allen... thanks, I didn't secure the cover to the thrust race. I just made it a very close fit, about a 001", clearance and just secured it by using the side grub screw on the spindle.
I can't remember whether I mentioned it before, but the good thing is, that you can buy the ER11 Collet complete with the 8mm shaft x 150mm long, all ready made. I bought mine on Ebay.
+allen gentz I have actually done away with the 'thrust' bearing and housing now as the tool is better and easier to make with just a brass bush on the back to hold it together. You can then take the bush off to allow the spindle of the tool to move forward through the roller bearings for screw tapping ops etc.
Can i attach a pulley at the other end power it with a belt? I am trying to build a spindle for an spm i am building.
Wouldn't the greatest axial load be on the tool end?
I got rid of the thrust bearing as it's not needed at all.
I can not fathom how the thrust bearing functions as a thrust bearing in this setup.
+ExtantFrodo2 Hi the spindle is a push fit in the roller bearings. The thrust bearing is only really affective if you use a drill directly onto the spindle as the spindle pushes forward with the hand pressure of the electric drill. The aluminium thrust bearing housing is locked to the spindle with a grub screw, so this pushes onto the bearing with this type of drive. If you use the dremel or drill extension to drive it, (i.e no forward pressure)...the thrust bearing isn't really doing anything. A brass or bronze bush instead of the thrust bearing, works fine.
In what way? The tool works great.Have used it for many jobs and never had any problems with it. Its very accurate as well.
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Microphone broke Steve?
I didn't speak in my early videos!
l LOVE IT !
Thanks.
What is it used for?
Hi Louis. This is the first version I made. It's for using on the cross slide of a lathe to drill holes in components. I have made a much better one now. Regards Steve
co to jest?do czego to sluzy?
Hi. Its a Lathe tool post drill for drilling holes etc in the side of components that are being machined on the lathe.It can also be used for small milling work and screw thread tapping.
Where can I get the screw on Jacobs chuck?
Hi, I get mine on Ebay. Just choose one with 1/4" capacity and that should be the one I used 3/8" UNF thread size....Regards Steve
Thanks Steve
Michael Mullett I'd be willing to bet you could get one off any dead battery drill.
@@trollforge if there's a screw in the centre of the chuck to be removed remember it's a LEFT HAND THREAD usually. The chuck thread is right hand.
@@ronwilken5219 Yes that is true I have several kicking around the shop... I'm too cheep to part with one when a drill goes to the great recycling centre in the sky...
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