This is genius but you seriously have some balls for not putting down some conformal coating. On a desktop you can get away without using a conformal coating but on a laptop that moves around and is prone to shock impacts it’s a huge, huge risk to not use it.
That may not be necessarily holding true; given that you have not been over-generous on the amount applied... A thin film will choose to remain inside due to capillary effect in spite the heat expansion, the gravitational differences or even the inertia from sudden shakes/spins/what-not's. I am sure a serious amount of tests would best prove what actually would happen. But as risky as it may seem.. It may be safer than it may initially appear.
What do you mean to have some balls? Like it's difficult to apply the coating? Get real man. Stop putting people down when they just want to help. Unless you are putting out videos that are helping then shut your pie hole.
@@BlackDidThis no. I applied some to my laptop. A very light amount. Less than this guy did in this video. He put way to much on in my opinion by the way but anyway. My laptop experienced a big jolt from my clumsy self swinging my bad to my shoulder to close to my desk and it hit my desk. And guess what happened? I decided to take apart my laptop to see if the liquid metal had stayed put or not and I found it had escaped and found trace amounts on the motherboard itself. And again, I used way less than was used in this video. So now I do not even use liquid metal in my laptops anymore despite the good thermal properties.
I have seen some people install a foam barrier on their laptops with Liquid Metal. I know it may not be necessary but I would install some kind of dam because laptops get held at many odd angles and I am scared it will leak and fry components.
@@leidenfrozt hi i'm planning to use kapton tape, but i'm not so sure..many give advice on using conformal coating..and using it is enough given to small components around cpu/gpu, and is this safe mean in some time? or need to give it more over time
@@Notyourdaddy83 no, get a specific electrical tape and it will be heat resistant. Like I have the 3mm brand one that’s black I forgot what it’s called.
This is nice and cheap way. The best way is deep cleaning and put conformal coating on micro components, you can use kapton tape to for more protect ;)
@@TheRockacer22 Bullshit, i have Lm for about a year, did check on it a week ago, it got a bit black. Wipe 99% of it out with some alcohol wipes. Re-applied and i was good to go. Btw: The liquid metal will form an alloy with copper which is ok, BUT you need to reapply it after a month because the liquid metal that forms an alloy fuse to the copper and you have less liquid metal than before. After one or two times of reapplying the liquid metal, the alloy layer will protect the rest of the liquid metal from further alloy formation, about the performance the alloy layer heat conductivity is identical to that of bare copper, so don't worry about it. After that, you can just reapply it once a year like when you use a liquid metal with a nickel-plated heatsink. This information is from der8auer, he works with Thermal Grizzly the company that made this liquid metal. In summary, using a liquid metal with bare copper for the first time you need to reapply it after one month (you can use acetone to clean the old liquid metal) then after one month do it again (2nd reapply), after that, you can just replace it once a year.
@@TheRockacer22 did my guy just said IHS is needed… dude, people litterally delid their desktop CPU IHS for better thermals… ESPECIALLY when using liquid metal because well, they want low thermals…
@@jimnguyen. does my guy even understand what happens after the delid? The lhs goes back on btw. Lm designed to go in between ihs and bare die. Laptop CPUs are designed without ihs. They have exposed bare die that touches a heat sink, they are designed this way and able to handle higher temps. Lm not good idea to put on heatsink, we know this from desktop applications, we see it over and over again. Either the lm leaks over time, or it leaves the heatsink scratched, no matter the metal composition of the heatsink.
@@TheRockacer22 HASHDFHYASDFHA I CAN'T GO BUILD A FUCKIN COMPUTER LMFAO. Dude I have 3 systems that I have built for someone else using liquid metal that has been delided. 2 over 2 years now. It's perfectly fine as long as it's not aluminium heatsink. Copper you would need to reapply. You're a fuckin idiot mate. But that's ok, ua-cam.com/video/cQaqUyKVIEE/v-deo.html Go watch some gamer nexus and be back with more accurate informations.
hy, i have a msi laptop GF63 thin , I want to add liquid metal, but the base CPU heatsink is copper (there is no problem putting liquid metal), but the GPU base heatsink has the color of aluminum, the problem is that aluminum does not you can put liquid metal but instead in nickel and silver if you can(I have read that the heatsink can be made of nickel or silver as well and you can put liquid metal there), the problem is how to identify if it is silver, nickel or aluminum so I know whether to apply liquid metal or not. I don't know if you knew how to answer me about it, thanks!
The title: NOT A CLICK-BAIT.... I was so hoping I would ever be able to say this in my lifetime.... This way IS awesome! (Just at the midpoint now where He flipper over to reveal the contact area such as to mask the remainder. I am sure everyone watching this should already know that liquid metal is NOT supposed to touch any of your components such as to not short circuit/roast your board.
I don't understand what was he trying to do with the sellotape and paper, (and even if I think he was doing what he was trying to do) how did he pick the dimensions?
Hi! Thank you for your video. I just bought myself an Aero 17 HDR XD and am wondering about long term viability of your method. May I ask, since its been a year, how did your solution pan out? It would be great to hear how things turn out in the long run. Thank you again from Vancouver! :-)
I reapply mine around every 12 months do a really good clean with isopropyl. I've even sanded the copper heatsink with a really fine wet and dry sandpaper and isopropyl to get a really smooth finish then carefully reapply the liquid metal.
@@zyxiw what I found in my use case was the LM was being absorbed so I was having to reapply it. But the end results been the coolest temps I have ever seen
On laptop vram and vrms what to use bro pls tell me I own rog strix g15 For cpu i oredered liquid metal of thermal grizzly for gpu ordered thermal grizzly extreme For vram and vrms what to use som say pad and some paste Can iuse Arctic mx4 for vram and vrms pls reply
As far as is known, liquid metal also destroys copper, it's just that the reaction process itself does not proceed as quickly as with aluminum. What is the condition of your laptop heatsink now?
Bad idea. You need to keep the LM inside without letting it spill onto the motherboard and destroying the entire laptop in the process. And it will spill easily with your method. You need to also apply conformal coating or silicone to seal the LM away.
I do basicly the same thing and as you write it below. I Fucked up(i know i was a idiot) ! because i moved the laptop a lot, the lquid spilled out and now my laptop not working. i would like to ask if its can be repaired? I tired the acer service but they want to change the complete motherboard ( of course it would be really expensive) and i would like to know if there is a differente solution. (SORRY For My English)
It's also a good idea to press the power button for a few seconds after disconnecting the battery (and unplugging the power supply ofc) to discharge any remaining electric stuff
Nice insulation for the GPU and CPU.....lol. Pray god that liquid metal will not spill out from sides onto the gpu component.....using liquid metal require to insulate with coating the components around the die. Really dangerous, especially if you carry the laptop vertically on a bag.
@@skeletor2118, the liquid metal is most likely going to destroy his motherboard because he didn’t provide and layers of protection to stop it from moving
I would think not technically but if there was even a slight corner of the tape that was overlapping where the die needed to contact the HS it would cause thermal issues since the LM is probably thinner than the thickness of the tape.
Shouldve put the tape surrounding the die and act as a non conductive insulator. If that liquid metal sips out then youll end up shorting your laptop But HEY IM NO EXPERT, SO DON'T LISTEN TO ME.
Ik gok dat je Nederlands bent, hoe dik het moet zijn verschilt per laptop. Je kan op google opzoeken welke pads jou laptop nodig hebben, als je het niet kan vinden. Stuur maar een bericht met je model naam.
a much better video explanation, though this a good way to figure out where you need to apply the liquid metal on the heat spreader. WARNING: aluminum heatsinks are not compatible with liquid metal, also you may need to apply a barrier so that it does not cause a short circuit. ua-cam.com/video/w7ChaNf9N-w/v-deo.html
Why not just cover the die with a few layers of masking tape, then hit the motherboard with a few coats of aerosol conformal coating. Remove masking tape from the die and apply both the die and heatsink with LM. I've been running liquid metal on all my daily laptops for years now and have never had any issues with leaking. Typically LM likes to stick to itself and doesn't move around much.
hello friend, I want to apply LM to my gaming laptop but I dont know how to protect my laptop from leaking LM. can you maybe help me. Thanks in advance
Most leaks are from over application of liquid metal. You don't as much LM as you do traditional paste and for the love of God do not just a drop in the middle and drop the heatsink on top of it withoit spreading first.
Jesus Christ, this could be good educational video, but then you blast this horror music and I just have to press mute.. WTF with this cheap techno?!?!
You could switch to Kryonaut and enjoy higher clocks at lower temperature my man. I swear these thin gaming laptops need to leave the factory with Liquid Metal.
Awful. Really, please take this down since you know someone is going to blob that stuff on like thermal paste and not bother to insulate surrounding components. Also it is wise to install a foam barrier on a laptop due to chance of LM seeping out.
@@silkan7 1. Oxidation of liquid metal when interacting with copper, as a result of mechanical damage to the chip. 2.Spraying liquid metal particles on the motherboard.
@@silkan7 Liquid metal is used on ASUS laptops, where, instead of a copper contact pad, there is a nickel-plated pad. In this case, liquid metal is installed only on the processor so that a sealed adjoining of the site is possible there. ua-cam.com/video/kxT5egkic0w/v-deo.html
whats so unique in this method ?! you applied LM on both the heatsink AND the chip, this DOUBLES the amount of LM and i think is unnecessary for obvious reasons !... i watched the whole video but really i wasnt fascinated !...
That's how it should be done even on desktop CPUs. Applying just one layer wouldn't be enough since it is very thin and won't be able to fill all the air pockets between the die and the cooler's surfaces. See how der8auer does it. And the video is not supposed to be fascinating, it's just someone experimenting. Might be a language barrier issue there but that's okay.
Applying to both sides is to ensure there's adhesion to the cooling surface. LM needs coaxing to stick to surfaces, which makes application tedious. Applying to both sides prevents a situation where the top cooler fails to properly bond. This is why being conservative with the LM is highly recommended. This is why the paper/tape method shown here is useful. It takes the guesswork out of applying to any opposing surface where the actual point of contact isn't clear, like how large water blocks have large surfaces that can be used with cpu's of all brands and generations. Otherwise you may miss essential coverage, or apply where contact is unnecessary and have errant LM in the system.
Engineering tip: the number adjacent to each screw indicates the ORDER in which you should tighten the screws.
True
It only takes presenting on radiators tho
it makes sense too
This is genius but you seriously have some balls for not putting down some conformal coating. On a desktop you can get away without using a conformal coating but on a laptop that moves around and is prone to shock impacts it’s a huge, huge risk to not use it.
That may not be necessarily holding true; given that you have not been over-generous on the amount applied... A thin film will choose to remain inside due to capillary effect in spite the heat expansion, the gravitational differences or even the inertia from sudden shakes/spins/what-not's.
I am sure a serious amount of tests would best prove what actually would happen. But as risky as it may seem.. It may be safer than it may initially appear.
What do you mean to have some balls? Like it's difficult to apply the coating? Get real man. Stop putting people down when they just want to help. Unless you are putting out videos that are helping then shut your pie hole.
@@BlackDidThis even so cheap insurance doesn't hurt
@@BlackDidThis no. I applied some to my laptop. A very light amount. Less than this guy did in this video. He put way to much on in my opinion by the way but anyway. My laptop experienced a big jolt from my clumsy self swinging my bad to my shoulder to close to my desk and it hit my desk. And guess what happened? I decided to take apart my laptop to see if the liquid metal had stayed put or not and I found it had escaped and found trace amounts on the motherboard itself. And again, I used way less than was used in this video. So now I do not even use liquid metal in my laptops anymore despite the good thermal properties.
this guy fried his laptop like there is no tomorrow
Get rid of the music.
no
@@rioalfff Ok.
pretty nostalgic tbh
Here here. Hate music like this. Silence or his voice?? Stupid shite music
Isa banger
I have seen some people install a foam barrier on their laptops with Liquid Metal. I know it may not be necessary but I would install some kind of dam because laptops get held at many odd angles and I am scared it will leak and fry components.
You can use conformal coating agent to prevent direct contact of liquid metal into surrounding pcb outside silicon die
Clear nail polish can serve that purpose, but there are many other type of conformal coating agent
@Alex Ramos i recommend using dedicated PCB conformal coating which is usually made from acrylic or silicone resin
@@leidenfrozt hi i'm planning to use kapton tape, but i'm not so sure..many give advice on using conformal coating..and using it is enough given to small components around cpu/gpu, and is this safe mean in some time? or need to give it more over time
If your liquid metal is spilling when you even move your laptop then you added way too much it should only be a thin layer 😭
Should keep some electrical tape around the die just to keep it safe from leaks
The tape will not melt or destroy chipsets if i leave them?
@@Notyourdaddy83 no, get a specific electrical tape and it will be heat resistant. Like I have the 3mm brand one that’s black I forgot what it’s called.
Informative way of determining contact surface, thank you
This is nice and cheap way. The best way is deep cleaning and put conformal coating on micro components, you can use kapton tape to for more protect ;)
Add Tg Shield too.
Genius, thankyou will be sure to try this method.
On the lesser powerful laptops
this rubber limiter presents already
Don’t know if they need that but it’s just nice it allows doing that already
Dont forget to give an update video to see what's the effect of LM on heatsink after several months 👍
It's never good. Lm should only ever be applied between die and IHS. Laptops have bare die and no IHS. Big rip.
@@TheRockacer22 Bullshit, i have Lm for about a year, did check on it a week ago, it got a bit black. Wipe 99% of it out with some alcohol wipes. Re-applied and i was good to go.
Btw:
The liquid metal will form an alloy with copper which is ok, BUT you need to reapply it after a month because the liquid metal that forms an alloy fuse to the copper and you have less liquid metal than before. After one or two times of reapplying the liquid metal, the alloy layer will protect the rest of the liquid metal from further alloy formation, about the performance the alloy layer heat conductivity is identical to that of bare copper, so don't worry about it. After that, you can just reapply it once a year like when you use a liquid metal with a nickel-plated heatsink. This information is from der8auer, he works with Thermal Grizzly the company that made this liquid metal.
In summary, using a liquid metal with bare copper for the first time you need to reapply it after one month (you can use acetone to clean the old liquid metal) then after one month do it again (2nd reapply), after that, you can just replace it once a year.
@@TheRockacer22 did my guy just said IHS is needed… dude, people litterally delid their desktop CPU IHS for better thermals… ESPECIALLY when using liquid metal because well, they want low thermals…
@@jimnguyen. does my guy even understand what happens after the delid? The lhs goes back on btw. Lm designed to go in between ihs and bare die. Laptop CPUs are designed without ihs. They have exposed bare die that touches a heat sink, they are designed this way and able to handle higher temps. Lm not good idea to put on heatsink, we know this from desktop applications, we see it over and over again. Either the lm leaks over time, or it leaves the heatsink scratched, no matter the metal composition of the heatsink.
@@TheRockacer22 HASHDFHYASDFHA I CAN'T GO BUILD A FUCKIN COMPUTER LMFAO. Dude I have 3 systems that I have built for someone else using liquid metal that has been delided. 2 over 2 years now. It's perfectly fine as long as it's not aluminium heatsink. Copper you would need to reapply. You're a fuckin idiot mate. But that's ok, ua-cam.com/video/cQaqUyKVIEE/v-deo.html
Go watch some gamer nexus and be back with more accurate informations.
really amazing and daring.
I own a AERO 15x 9.. does that mean that my heat sink is the same as you?
hy, i have a msi laptop GF63 thin , I want to add liquid metal, but the base CPU heatsink is copper (there is no problem putting liquid metal), but the GPU base heatsink has the color of aluminum, the problem is that aluminum does not you can put liquid metal but instead in nickel and silver if you can(I have read that the heatsink can be made of nickel or silver as well and you can put liquid metal there), the problem is how to identify if it is silver, nickel or aluminum so I know whether to apply liquid metal or not. I don't know if you knew how to answer me about it, thanks!
nikel is shinny, aluminum is not
The title: NOT A CLICK-BAIT.... I was so hoping I would ever be able to say this in my lifetime.... This way IS awesome! (Just at the midpoint now where He flipper over to reveal the contact area such as to mask the remainder.
I am sure everyone watching this should already know that liquid metal is NOT supposed to touch any of your components such as to not short circuit/roast your board.
Damn. He is genius. Thump up!
I don't understand what was he trying to do with the sellotape and paper, (and even if I think he was doing what he was trying to do) how did he pick the dimensions?
Good video really helped me put lquid thermel paste!
On his after photo of HW monitor it shows max CPU clock of 3500mhz where the before shows 4500mhz. Did he already damage the machine?
no because if the cpu is more cooled down the mhz getting lower
Hi! Thank you for your video. I just bought myself an Aero 17 HDR XD and am wondering about long term viability of your method. May I ask, since its been a year, how did your solution pan out? It would be great to hear how things turn out in the long run. Thank you again from Vancouver! :-)
No reply in 2 months, he fried his motherboard lol
I reapply mine around every 12 months do a really good clean with isopropyl. I've even sanded the copper heatsink with a really fine wet and dry sandpaper and isopropyl to get a really smooth finish then carefully reapply the liquid metal.
Hey there, i did the same. great resaults thanks
@@davidw1019 isn't it a bit much to reapply every year its liquid metal not thermal paste...
@@zyxiw what I found in my use case was the LM was being absorbed so I was having to reapply it. But the end results been the coolest temps I have ever seen
That's a great idea. Thanks for the share.
Anybody ever try to polish the radiator surface. I'm looking into doing this
thanks for this video brother
thats nice tip you got there with a piece of paper. And please lower the volume of the music 😄
On laptop vram and vrms what to use bro pls tell me
I own rog strix g15
For cpu i oredered liquid metal of thermal grizzly for gpu ordered thermal grizzly extreme
For vram and vrms what to use som say pad and some paste
Can iuse Arctic mx4 for vram and vrms pls reply
As far as is known, liquid metal also destroys copper, it's just that the reaction process itself does not proceed as quickly as with aluminum.
What is the condition of your laptop heatsink now?
Great help man. Thanks
Bad idea. You need to keep the LM inside without letting it spill onto the motherboard and destroying the entire laptop in the process. And it will spill easily with your method. You need to also apply conformal coating or silicone to seal the LM away.
Bro was the GPU cleaned properly? Seems you left thermal paste residue on the sides.
Doesnt matter
Thermal paste on the sides wont affect anything.
I do basicly the same thing and as you write it below. I Fucked up(i know i was a idiot) ! because i moved the laptop a lot, the lquid spilled out and now my laptop not working.
i would like to ask if its can be repaired? I tired the acer service but they want to change the complete motherboard ( of course it would be really expensive) and i would like to know if there is a differente solution. (SORRY For My English)
Should you be removing the battery when doing this?
Disconnect the battery, yes. Removing it from the laptop, not really.
Always unplug all power supply and batteries before taking apart your laptop.
It's also a good idea to press the power button for a few seconds after disconnecting the battery (and unplugging the power supply ofc) to discharge any remaining electric stuff
how to know that my laptop does not have aluminium and have a nickle plated surface
Caution: Only recommended for copper
And forget to put tape on the motherboard side causing a short circuit because of this amount of liquid metal. Oops
Nice insulation for the GPU and CPU.....lol. Pray god that liquid metal will not spill out from sides onto the gpu component.....using liquid metal require to insulate with coating the components around the die. Really dangerous, especially if you carry the laptop vertically on a bag.
In my country one guy accepted for 10 dollars to put on mine. Now i see how risky it is and how boss he is 😂
Omg do you work for th NASA? You are a genius tbh hahahaha
No he isnt, didnt protect his cpu or gpu at all
@@skeletor2118, the liquid metal is most likely going to destroy his motherboard because he didn’t provide and layers of protection to stop it from moving
@@unlimited-3298 Most likely nothing's gonna happen, but sure, it's a risk
@@unlimited-3298 People exaggerate the risk of LM
What thermal pads were you using? What's the thickness?
mad man
At 2:10, very smart solution 😲
هلا و الله !...
U idiot
How many gram is that liquid metal?
Does leaving the electrical tape on the GPU cause any issues (thermal or otherwise) though?
I would think not technically but if there was even a slight corner of the tape that was overlapping where the die needed to contact the HS it would cause thermal issues since the LM is probably thinner than the thickness of the tape.
Shouldve put the tape surrounding the die and act as a non conductive insulator. If that liquid metal sips out then youll end up shorting your laptop
But HEY IM NO EXPERT, SO DON'T LISTEN TO ME.
@@thegreenthing7603 bruh the tape will fry under that temps
@@sivanaruls8524 most electrical tape(3M brand) have a melting point of 105C. That CPU wont even reach that temps fyi
Hi, I just want to know if the liquid metal did not eat through the copper heat pipes? Is your laptop still ok?
Liquid metal will only corrode aluminum, copper and silicon should be fine
Liquid metal will attack copper over time. It will pit and discolor the surface. I've done it I actually know.@@danielmadueno223
not corroding?
Guys, shall I put tape and coating on my cpu when I add liquid metal or just tape?
What kind of thermal pad is it????????????
is it necessary to also apply liquid metal to the heatsink? i've seen other youtube videos do this
Yes, it is necessary for liquid metal. Not needed for thermal pastes though.
Good
How thick should the thermal pads be if you replace them?
Ik gok dat je Nederlands bent, hoe dik het moet zijn verschilt per laptop.
Je kan op google opzoeken welke pads jou laptop nodig hebben, als je het niet kan vinden. Stuur maar een bericht met je model naam.
The same size as the original is preferable, I believe. Someone correct me if I was misinformed.
@@ADunleavy Whats the original?
hallo, heb jij ervaring met liquid metal. is er een mogelijkheid dat je mij kan helpen
Honestly. No need for LM. Just replacing that TIM with a decent TIM enough. That looked like manufacturing application and they suck at it.
It actually looked pretty good imo; seemed to be the tpm honeywell phase change stuff.
bro high pitched the NCS song in case it gets removed and copyrighted 💀(yes ikr GEN Z COMMENT LMAO)
i find it kinda harder this way
Omg big balls!
Dunnoo...
Wait, without the eletric tape? Isn't this mad?
Your thumbnail shows a desktop CPU
Does this increase battery life?
And...does this achieve more ram?
I also think it incease the Hard drive space
Does it still work? xD
a much better video explanation, though this a good way to figure out where you need to apply the liquid metal on the heat spreader.
WARNING: aluminum heatsinks are not compatible with liquid metal, also you may need to apply a barrier so that it does not cause a short circuit.
ua-cam.com/video/w7ChaNf9N-w/v-deo.html
Why not just cover the die with a few layers of masking tape, then hit the motherboard with a few coats of aerosol conformal coating. Remove masking tape from the die and apply both the die and heatsink with LM. I've been running liquid metal on all my daily laptops for years now and have never had any issues with leaking. Typically LM likes to stick to itself and doesn't move around much.
hello friend, I want to apply LM to my gaming laptop but I dont know how to protect my laptop from leaking LM. can you maybe help me. Thanks in advance
At high temperature it doesn't like to stick to itself very much
@@emirhanolgun7351 coat with conformal coating twice then apply heat resistant tape precisely over it
Most leaks are from over application of liquid metal. You don't as much LM as you do traditional paste and for the love of God do not just a drop in the middle and drop the heatsink on top of it withoit spreading first.
@@cemsengul16 I applied liquid metal 2 weeks ago and now temps are again rising, i think i have to reapply it next week
Seriously what's this song?
BLANK by Disfigure (try using Shazam next time)
Great job and very good application of the metal. A lot of people make the mistake of giving too much...

Jesus Christ, this could be good educational video, but then you blast this horror music and I just have to press mute..
WTF with this cheap techno?!?!
As much as i am tempted to go liquid metal , i'd play it safe with "Kryonaut" and lock my cpu to base speed ♥️
I put Kryonaut on mine about 3 hours ago.
Why the hell would you disable your turbo boost lmaoooo
You could switch to Kryonaut and enjoy higher clocks at lower temperature my man. I swear these thin gaming laptops need to leave the factory with Liquid Metal.
some do. @@cemsengul16
I'm afraid of that conductive stuff leaking out and wrecking the laptop. Those VRMS are pretty close and laptops are carried around ! It's risky man.
Awful. Really, please take this down since you know someone is going to blob that stuff on like thermal paste and not bother to insulate surrounding components.
Also it is wise to install a foam barrier on a laptop due to chance of LM seeping out.
DONT DO THIS AT HOME 😅
Зря витрачені 5 хв. ЗАВЖДИ ТРЕБА наносити два рівні захисту від протікання рідкого металу, силікон + губка ЗАВЖДИ, а краще по два рівні (сукупно 4)
The goal is to apply as little as possible. Two sides is too much
Liquid metal will kill your laptop in a short time.
Reason?
@@silkan7
1. Oxidation of liquid metal when interacting with copper, as a result of mechanical damage to the chip.
2.Spraying liquid metal particles on the motherboard.
@@anonanonim2261 but it might be a way to apply it and not cause any issue because many laptops have LM from stock warehouse
@@silkan7 Liquid metal is used on ASUS laptops, where, instead of a copper contact pad, there is a nickel-plated pad.
In this case, liquid metal is installed only on the processor so that a sealed adjoining of the site is possible there.
ua-cam.com/video/kxT5egkic0w/v-deo.html
@@anonanonim2261 did not know nothing about this, thanks dude
your laptop's screen so terrible
whats so unique in this method ?! you applied LM on both the heatsink AND the chip, this DOUBLES the amount of LM and i think is unnecessary for obvious reasons !... i watched the whole video but really i wasnt fascinated !...
That's how it should be done even on desktop CPUs. Applying just one layer wouldn't be enough since it is very thin and won't be able to fill all the air pockets between the die and the cooler's surfaces.
See how der8auer does it.
And the video is not supposed to be fascinating, it's just someone experimenting. Might be a language barrier issue there but that's okay.
The reason two layers are applied is to make sure the cracks in both the heatsink and the cpu are filled up.
Applying to both sides is to ensure there's adhesion to the cooling surface. LM needs coaxing to stick to surfaces, which makes application tedious. Applying to both sides prevents a situation where the top cooler fails to properly bond.
This is why being conservative with the LM is highly recommended.
This is why the paper/tape method shown here is useful. It takes the guesswork out of applying to any opposing surface where the actual point of contact isn't clear, like how large water blocks have large surfaces that can be used with cpu's of all brands and generations. Otherwise you may miss essential coverage, or apply where contact is unnecessary and have errant LM in the system.
Wonder how many people watched this and broke their shit so far.
Some random guy shows you, how to kill your laptop