I actually have that exact card and yeah, VRM's on it can reach over 100C while under load even if the rest of the components stay near 70-80. thermal pads are an easy add that can help a ton
Love how Dawid can mess around with a 3080 testing how much or how little liquid metal he can put on a gpu and I'm clutching my 1050ti worried that it'll breakdown from old age...
@@CheekiBreeki-mq2my Yeah, surprisingly, unless something catastrophic happens to a PC, they tend to last indefinitely, assuming they're treated well and dusted. People usually replace devices prematurely because they want a performance boost out of new technology, not because their device suddenly broke. PCs absolutely can wear out, but it's not a guarantee, and I've noticed that the vast majority of my electronics and computers are probably going to outlast me if I keep using them forever.
@@VectorGaming4080 well my gt740 is getting very old and the silicone is degrading so much i have to downclock it but itll work for another 10 years so your kinda right
PC components surivive so extremly long. They onlyest thing i managed to kill was a Xeon CPU because I overclocked it over the limits. :s But it's been running awesome speeds tho. But even with that extreme stupid oc it survived 3 years... and I bought it used.. so it lasted like 10-12 years even with stupid oc
@@CheekiBreeki-mq2my In the last 15 or 20 years I have only had one catastrophic GPU failure and that was an old ATI X1600 where the capacitors ruptured quite spectacularly but that was in the early 2000s when there was a year or two where products across the tech industry were failing due to bad capacitors.
@@BennyGoId "Aluminium (aluminum in American and Canadian English) is a chemical element with the symbol Al and atomic number 13. It is a silvery-white, soft, non-magnetic and ductile metal in the boron group." -Wikipedia "Aluminum (Al), also spelled aluminium, chemical element, a lightweight silvery white metal of main Group 13 (IIIa, or boron group) of the periodic table. Aluminum is the most abundant metallic element in Earth’s crust and the most widely used nonferrous metal. Because of its chemical activity, aluminum never occurs in the metallic form in nature, but its compounds are present to a greater or lesser extent in almost all rocks, vegetation, and animals. Aluminum is concentrated in the outer 16 km (10 miles) of Earth’s crust, of which it constitutes about 8 percent by weight; it is exceeded in amount only by oxygen and silicon. The name aluminum is derived from the Latin word alumen, used to describe potash alum, or aluminum potassium sulfate, KAl(SO4)2∙12H2O." -britannica.com Try exposing yourself to dialects of English outside of North America next time.
Of all GPU's, you do this on a 3080, the most scarce GPU of 2020 XD Edit 2 months later: Holy, 298 likes, thanks Internet! I even got noticed by Dawid himself!
I wouldn't buy a Nvidia card at gunpoint. Radeon is catching up and it has no shady business practices like Nvidia. Every build i've made in the last year has been Radeon with Zero complaints.
@@Fractal_blip Would you buy products from say Nazi Germany because they were solid designs? There is no difference. Are you an apologist for MicroSoft's shady business practices too? I only buy them because its a monopoly and I have no choice, Linux won't run my programs.
@@MichaelClark-uw7ex i am not so sure that's a fair comparison. The nvidia cards are quite a bit more power efficient lol lmao nazi Germany ofc they had some of most solid engineering for everything from guns to toilets.
This is really awesome to see you try liquid metal. I can say from experience that it does immensely help with leveling out the temps as an example, on my 7700k, I got a 15c decrease under load and the fluctuation of temperatures was decreased by 5c. I hope you can come back to this at some point, it's much more difficult to do this on a GPU, and I myself wouldn't dare try this!
I have an 8700k from silicon lottery that was delided and put on liquid metal, Its been at 5.3ghz for 5-6 years, still under 60c gaming. Just amazing. Upgrading to 13900KS next month though lol, 24 core 6ghz sounds to juicy.
Did this to my 2070 super, when I delidded and and did a liquid metal application on my 3900x. Haven't seen gpu temps hit 70 C since, and it's boosting up to 2100 MHz with my OC set. Definitely an underrated procedure, that can unlock some gpu potential, without having to get a $250 waterblock, made just for that card!
Liquid Metal is best when coating both the GPU and the Coolers plate then when theyre laid back on top of each other they essentially bond together giving much better transferance of heat same with when you delid a cpu. however you need to stencil exactly where the gpu makes contact i used a scribe to draw the impression of the thermal paste made on the cooler and essentially painted between the lines, the same thin coating should be applied on both sides.
I use liquid metal on almost everything I can. One thing I don't understand is why everybody recommends clear fingernail polish to protect components. For one, there is a specific type of fingernail polish you are supposed to use for it to be safe and protect correctly. Secondly, they actually make something to do that job properly. It's called silicone conformal coating. You can get a huge jar of it on Amazon on the cheap. Also, I would say after removing a lot of that LM, it looked a little light. There should still be a decent sheen to it. Oh, and if you are going to be tearing down graphics cards and such somewhat often, it's a good idea to have a decent assortment of thermal pads around.
hi I want to ask is it true that conformal coating works? I intend to use Kapton tape.. but many also recommend conformal coating as far as I know it is used on drones or mobile RC to protect it from water
It was a wild ride and it was my pleasure my friend. I think a future video with some thermal pad fixes or a custom/better GPU cooler might be in order and I for one would love to watch!
Your issue is due to memory junction temperature. If your memory get to 110c your card Will thermal throttle. You can check memory temperature with hwid info. They are memory chips on the back of the pcb maybie those one are the issue. I had the same problem with my 3090 adding more thermal pad on the back helped a lot
@@pauloa.7609 my 7700k does 5ghz with liquid metal, i swapped it 2 times and it looks like small amounts do get burned or something. Because evreytime I cleaned it there is alot of “ashe” coming of it, grey substance. Also the die isnt shiny as day one, it has gotten hazy. But temps never get above 70c.
Hi, just started to watch your video with this one. You tried liquid metal and got probably 2-3c. Actually if you really wanna optimise thermals, power and performance. Undervolting is something to consider. I am able to run 1860@837mV and temps around 65c (25c room temp) and almost avg power draw of 250-260w. My card anyways use to throttle at 78c and stock clocks would settle at 1850-1900. So it's a win win situation for me. Zero investment, very easy and nothing to worry at all.
The point of LM is not to always reduce the core temps directly, but rather the rate it takes for the heat goes from GPU to the heatsink so it gets cooled faster. Even though the fans will still ramp up regardless if the temps are the relatively the same, at maximum load and contentions operation it will be easier to get read of heat especially in temperature spikes and if the cooler also touches other components, for obvious reasons that benefits them as well.
Interestingly, I had the same exact thing happened to me, except on my laptop. I repasted it 6 times before I got the thermal pad configuration right and I actually had to use 4 thermal pads and thermal "goo" applications on two of the remaining VRAMs because 1mm TP was too thick and 0.5mm was too thin. Nevertheless, after my 7th and final attempt, it's running better than ever and I can actually push some decent overclcok with good temps!
Hopefully this will cheer you up about thermal pads. On my EVGA 2060 the minimum thickness of pad is 5mm with one section at 10mm. (2x5mm pad stacked on top of each other) This is the factory shipped version. Great video.
This went about as well as I expected when I saw your preview posts. Still, it's nice to learn from other's mistakes, especially when it's as entertaining as Dawid's mistakes lol
I've had one gaming pc 2 years ago, a cyber power with an fx4300 & a rx460 2gb. I just recently was sparked to build my first rig. I've got all my parts ordered for my tower and am coming in a touch under $600. Stumbled upon your videos while just doing some research for my build. I am really enjoying your videos and have watched quite a few the last week. 👍
The risk/reward ratio of liquid metal application is far too unfavorable to try it on an expensive components. Unless you're a youtuber, of course - then it makes for an potentially dramatic video;)
Meh, risky yes but definitely worth it in some cases to me. High end laptop was an oven out the box. After a little LM treatment you have to intentionally try to thermal throttle it with OC's or it'll never even get close
@@DawidDoesTechStuff it doesnt corrode, it absorbs into it. kinda weird chemically. www.gamersnexus.net/guides/3362-how-liquid-metal-affects-copper-nickel-and-aluminum-corrosion-test
You should also have considered using K5 Pro Thermal Putty to replace the pads. It's a thick, viscous putty like stuff that's not electrically conductive, but can be compressed/flow to fit gaps and is meant to replace conventional thermal pads. It's a bit of a pain to work with, but it's effective, and very adaptable due to its playdough like consistency.
Yup, thermal pads are the issue, Jay and his 2 cents mentioned that when reapplying new thermal pads you have to put on the correct thickness pads. But keep going, I'd like to see the temps with the correct pads and liquid metal. 👍🙋♂️
Seeing your desk afterwards helped me to understand I'm not alone in having this problem. Often when I'm done working on my PC I'm in flat out awe at the mess I've made lol
Don't do it. Liquid metal is for nerd idiots that like watching "nice" numbers on their screens. The difference in temps is minimal against good thermal paste and you have a big risk of shorting something in the card and fry it.
It is not worth it unless you know what you are doing. Unless you are well versed in overlocking GPU’s for any meaningful results, leave it alone. You can still get some extra fps by doing a slight clock without doing this, and that’s usually enough. The higher you go, the less return you see, and unless you have a good grasp of modding your GPU for extreme voltage changes, forget it. Whether your GPU runs 52 or 62 degrees during a game, does not matter. Now if you use your GPU for machine learning purposes for example, then yes you gain something. But keep in mind that I only see a benefit because I push a pair of linked 3090’s hard - much harder than any game ever will. It can also be of value if you do multi-layer Fx editing or GPU renders, but forget it for gaming.
@@pauloa.7609 8086 at 5.4 ghz? My old 8086 only ran at 5 mhz, 1000 times slower. That is some extreme overclocking, but only in 8 bits, that would kind of defeat the purpose.
The limiting factor with the XC3 is not the heat transfer between the die and the cooler, but it is the heat transfer between the cooler and the surrounding air. Your result definitely shows that as well. To truly utilize the potential of liquid metal, you need a water block because at the point, the limiting factor is indeed how quickly you can get that heat away from the die into the cooler. A water block is able to absorb the heat from the die much quicker and more efficiently than an air cooler. You will see either a temperature difference or you will see higher clocks at the same temperature with liquid metal and waterblock. Also, the other benefit would be that you would be running close to 40-45C so the die will run much more efficiently to begin with. So you will be able to boost up higher while using the same amount of wattage (and therefore getting more performance at the same heat output).
Maybe you could shave the spacers of the cooler down a bit? That would solve the contact problem. The paste seems to cover the bigger gap better, since it is a lot thicker than liquid metal.
Thank you for another entertaining video. What I’ve learned from this one is that I do not ... emphasize the word NOT ... want to ever tear down a video card. 😂
@@trisbane4086 , believe what you want. It’s not like you’d believe any screenshot I take. Keep in mind I was using the EVGA FTW3 500W bios. I just recently reverted to the Strix bios for resizeable bar support and it now boosts up to 2160 MHz. Can’t say I miss the 30 MHz drop in frequency though, probably only useful for benchmark scores
I wouldn't let that liquid metal stuff within 10 feet of my computer. Gallium is the Terminator of metals, just wait till it starts dissolving the gold in your CPU.
Would have loved seeing some of those sponsored Christmas lights in your rtx 3080. At least you could have hung it in the Christmas tree then, if it was no longer able to compute.
I nickel plate any copper surfaces before using any galinstan (gallium, indium, tin) thermal material like Thermal Grizzly Conductonaut. There are kits to nickel plate copper surfaces (I use one called Plug n Plate, with which I have no connection other than as a customer) that are well under $100 US, and the amount of plating material you get will do dozens of heat sinks, and it's easy (takes just a minute to set up, then just a few minutes to do the plating, then you're done). It's probably easier than a lot of people find it to actually spread the liquid metal! Otherwise, in time the gallium in the compound will migrate into the copper over time. The amalgam formed (silver in color) is slightly less efficient at heat transfer than copper, but the difference is supposed to be negligible. The more pressing concern is that as the gallium moves into the copper, the fraction of gallium in the TIM still between the chip die and the cool plate changes, while the volume of the TIM decreases. This can lead to higher temperatures and a crusty buildup on the heat sink when you do reapply it. There is also usually some minor pitting on the copper surface where it contacts the TIM. Nickel is far less reactive, and at least in the year or so I have used it, there has been no reduction in volume of the TIM or any pitting on the nickel plated cool plate surface on my gaming laptop. My previous laptop did start getting hotter after a few months with Thermal Grizzly Conductonaut, and it was noticeably more dry than when I applied it.
you need to look at the GPUZ and see hotspot temps vs gpu temps. if they re different, you have not enough liquid metal or its not contacting the heatsink very well due to pad sizes.
EVGA thermal pads' sizes are really weird sometimes, they have .25mm size pads lol and their shore hardness (EVGA pads are very very soft) probably is so much lower than other brands' thermal pads. If anyone is wondering, EVGA support does sell replacement thermal pads!
The pads on my card have torn/cracked a few times , if you warm them up in your hands you can squeeze them like putty, make the shape you need and re apply has always worked for me
Here's my experience with Silver King/Liquid Metal: I Watched a lot of tutorials on using Liquid Metal on GPU (1080ti) die before deciding to go this path. Finally took the plunge. It is really only for the dedicated, somewhat risk taking enthusiast, but so far worth the results (compared to 2 year old stock paste). I am using it on my 2 year old EVGA 1080Ti FTW3, which was starting to show higher temps with the old stock paste (which was on the dry side after 2 years of use). My before and after (controlled 70% fan speed) 10 min Heaven Benchmark tests showed a reduction of max stable temps from 78C (holding 1936 Mhz) to 63C (holding 1949 Mhz). The increase in temps is also slower, so in real game use the temps generally stay in the 50s with lower fan RPM. The price of this Liquid Metal is comparable to MX-4, but the risk, reward and difficulty of use is far higher. I must say, it was a bit of a tough process to carefully coat the resistors around the GPU die with clear Nail polish (without getting it on the die) and getting the right (min) amount of liquid metal on the die and the heatsink. This was all done in June 2020, and so far all's well and GPU has been keeping its 'Cool' ;)
liquid metal is totally unnecessary risk, using water cooling and thermal paste is way to go u can use alphacool aio extendable set for cpu and gpu plus alphacool cooling blocks for gpu. no risk involved mostly and no stupid conductive bulshiet on mobo. i once used arctic silver paste one drop in wrong spot and my asus rog hero vii mobo go to the trash becasue all pins bend over from short
hi I want to ask is it true that conformal coating works? I intend to use Kapton tape.. but many also recommend conformal coating as far as I know it is used on drones or mobile RC to protect it from water
That must have been frustrating lol. I applied liquid metal to my evga 970 FTW+ a while ago. After some months, I noticed crazy temps. Took it apart and it was all dried out. Whatever was on there was rock hard. I had to sand the liquid metal off the cooler plate, and carefully sand it off the top of the GPU die too. Didn't reapply, just stuck mx-4 back on but that was very blah lol.
a good tip for using liquid metal is to cover the tiny capacitors around the die with a clear coat, usually nail polish clear coat, it seals them up, keeping them from shorting and preventing war in Hungary.
Fun fact. The thermal pads are just a gap filler. You don't need them to be perfect thickness. They just need to squish a little. As long as decent enough contact is made it works Yes you will see GPUs with thick thermal blocks that are squished out a lot but those are from the factory. They're bought like that for the appropriate use case so they can be thick. Not all thermal pads are created equally after all and it is very likely that the thin pads used are rated for different temperatures. So stacking pads will mess with thermal conductivity too much
My RTX 2080 was hitting 85C consistently while gaming. It turned out that the thermal paste dried up and the thermal pads were in a bad shape. Re-pasted it with Thermal Grizzly Conductonaut, most pads I've replaced with a thermal tape, only one needed to be thicker. Now runs at 70C and below.
I can't bring myself to disassemble a $1000+ gpu just to replace thermal paste with something as notoriously risky as liquid metal, and for minimal gains to boot. I salute you for your honorable sacrifice.
I am in love with Conducornaut. That stuff is amazing (in my case). I have a Dell G5 gaming laptop. The CPU would thermal throttle at a moment's notice. Apply some liquid metal, and I can't get it to throttle now, no matter what kind of load I use. Yes, it gets toasty and the fans scream like a banshee, but it works.
That first application of liquid metal was probably just a bit too much, but the xc3 cooler does not have very good contact to begin with, as you saw, it's not a very even or flat contact pad. take it one step further, and apply just a little bit more thermal material, and then try it again. The gains would not be in the temperatures. In fact, the way the fans are set to ramp in that specific card, ideal temperature it aims for is 75 degrees. What you will see an improvement in, is better boost clocks, or lower fan speed to maintain the same temperature. Keep going, you were almost there.
Should try this again in the future with a water cooling block and liquid metal and see how far you can bring temps down on stock clock and then try to overclock back to OG base temps. I think that would be an extremely intriguing video.
The thermal pad issue he is somewhat similar to what happened to me. I was getting high vram temps while mining (dont worry im just using my main pc, not an actual mining rig), so decided to buy some thermal pads to try to fix it. Installed new thermal pads, but they were too thick so the die wasnt making enough contact. After trying to press them down and thin them out, and even buying thinner pads, I used thermal paste on the memory chips and it fixed my problem. Hasnt given me any problems so far, but my temps have not improved, so i came to the conclusion that the gigabyte gaming rx 5700xt just has bad memory cooling lol.
I dont know if someone mentioned you a solution to your fan problem. The RTX 3080 has temperture sensors on it's GDDR6X video memory chips, by default, Hwmonitor cant read these out as of right now, Hwinfo could do the trick here. GDDR6X is rated for up to 110c, if it reaches these temps (gddr6x runs really hot) the card ramps up the fans and throttles down, I'd definetly look into the temperture as it may be causing performance drops and the high fan speeds. The GDDR6X chips are the black chips right next to the GPU, a 3080 usually has 10 1GB chips on them, you want to make sure that they are properly connected to the heatsink with thermal pads, You can also put pads on the back of the vram to help spread the heat more, that's a common thing miner's have done to get the memory cooled down, since mining ether (like it or not, but a lot of gamers do it as of recently to make some money back from their overpriced graphics card) is very memory intensive. Some cards (especially Gigabyte, all of their versions seem to have at least some issues here) have that problem out of the box, but not as bad. This comment is fairly late and i have no idea if he already solved the issue, but I'm very sure its a vram temperture problem, liking may help him to see it if it's in time, idk.
I have an older MSI laptop with a GTX960M and the liquid metal made a significant difference in the GPU temps. Under load it dropped about 9-10C and no longer throttles. It was scary applying it but well worth it for the performance I got from it. It is too bad that the CPU side of the heatsink is aluminum as the i7-5700HQ runs a bit warm. The GPU heat sink is copper though.
I've repadded many cards. It's not just the thickness of the pads (e.g. you mention 1+1+1 is not equal to 3mm). Each pad comes with a rated shore hardness denoting how squishy it is. There are very squishy 3mm pads and harder 3mm pads. Each gpu is very specific for what it needs. Liquid metal is not really beneficial at all on these ampere cards, the gddr6x temps will overheat well before the core temp ever gets up there. Not to mention, ampere dies are convex and you need a thick paste on there for max efficiency, like TFX.
Any computer component can have liquid metal if you put enough current through it.
lmao
XD
*Microwave noise intensifies*
Fax
Extreme overclockers be like
Anna: Where is my clear nail polish?
Dawid: It's complicated...
LMAO
At least it was only the clear nail polish...
he should've went all beauty channel and placed his hand behind the product for the camera, missed meme opportunity
It bothers me that he sealed old thermal paste under nail polish.
I took my sister's red nail polish hopefully it words the same as the clear one
most 3080's dont have any back plating thermal pads so the VRM's can get spicy... so adding them yourself will help tremendously.
I actually have that exact card and yeah, VRM's on it can reach over 100C while under load even if the rest of the components stay near 70-80. thermal pads are an easy add that can help a ton
where though
Gigabyte fixed this on the 3080 12gb gaming oc. Thermal pads are on both sides.
They be talking about RTX 30's
Me with a GT 10thitty: Laughs in poor
me with G2020 and intel HD : Laughs in pooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooor
EDIT : now im with the G3250 so Great upgrade
@@ilyes4752 Yea I have a second pc with a G2030
THIIIIIIIIIIIIIIIIIIIIIIITYYYYYYYYYYYYYYY
Me: *laughs in quadro k600
giveup smoking, in 1 year you will have the 3090
Love how Dawid can mess around with a 3080 testing how much or how little liquid metal he can put on a gpu and I'm clutching my 1050ti worried that it'll breakdown from old age...
your 1050ti will survive till 2030 atleast, dont worry computers last a long time
@@CheekiBreeki-mq2my Yeah, surprisingly, unless something catastrophic happens to a PC, they tend to last indefinitely, assuming they're treated well and dusted. People usually replace devices prematurely because they want a performance boost out of new technology, not because their device suddenly broke. PCs absolutely can wear out, but it's not a guarantee, and I've noticed that the vast majority of my electronics and computers are probably going to outlast me if I keep using them forever.
@@VectorGaming4080 well my gt740 is getting very old and the silicone is degrading so much i have to downclock it but itll work for another 10 years so your kinda right
PC components surivive so extremly long. They onlyest thing i managed to kill was a Xeon CPU because I overclocked it over the limits. :s But it's been running awesome speeds tho. But even with that extreme stupid oc it survived 3 years... and I bought it used.. so it lasted like 10-12 years even with stupid oc
@@CheekiBreeki-mq2my In the last 15 or 20 years I have only had one catastrophic GPU failure and that was an old ATI X1600 where the capacitors ruptured quite spectacularly but that was in the early 2000s when there was a year or two where products across the tech industry were failing due to bad capacitors.
OH WOW , YOU MADLAD
Of all the gpus u had to choose the 3080
I'm a dangerous man. 😅
@@DawidDoesTechStuff thats quite clear lol
@@DawidDoesTechStuff :(
poor 3080
so happpy to see dawid getting sponsors he deserves it
Thank you! That's very kind of you.
Aluminium and liquid metal: exists
Russia: *heavy slavic breathing*
Hungary: *sweats nervously*
Aluminum*
"Aluminium" is not a real word.
@@BennyGoId its the british way. We Americans spell it different
@@BennyGoId
"Aluminium (aluminum in American and Canadian English) is a chemical element with the symbol Al and atomic number 13. It is a silvery-white, soft, non-magnetic and ductile metal in the boron group." -Wikipedia
"Aluminum (Al), also spelled aluminium, chemical element, a lightweight silvery white metal of main Group 13 (IIIa, or boron group) of the periodic table. Aluminum is the most abundant metallic element in Earth’s crust and the most widely used nonferrous metal. Because of its chemical activity, aluminum never occurs in the metallic form in nature, but its compounds are present to a greater or lesser extent in almost all rocks, vegetation, and animals. Aluminum is concentrated in the outer 16 km (10 miles) of Earth’s crust, of which it constitutes about 8 percent by weight; it is exceeded in amount only by oxygen and silicon. The name aluminum is derived from the Latin word alumen, used to describe potash alum, or aluminum potassium sulfate, KAl(SO4)2∙12H2O." -britannica.com
Try exposing yourself to dialects of English outside of North America next time.
I'm feeling Hungary for war.
@@bolshevikY2K most North American don’t give a fuck about how other say it lol. As long as we understand, we’re cool
Of all GPU's, you do this on a 3080, the most scarce GPU of 2020 XD
Edit 2 months later: Holy, 298 likes, thanks Internet! I even got noticed by Dawid himself!
Hahaha!! I like to live dangerously.
I wouldn't buy a Nvidia card at gunpoint. Radeon is catching up and it has no shady business practices like Nvidia.
Every build i've made in the last year has been Radeon with Zero complaints.
@@MichaelClark-uw7ex I'm sure amd is fine but I like my nvidia products. Regardless of their "shady business practices" theyre solid designs.
@@Fractal_blip Would you buy products from say Nazi Germany because they were solid designs?
There is no difference.
Are you an apologist for MicroSoft's shady business practices too?
I only buy them because its a monopoly and I have no choice, Linux won't run my programs.
@@MichaelClark-uw7ex i am not so sure that's a fair comparison. The nvidia cards are quite a bit more power efficient lol lmao nazi Germany ofc they had some of most solid engineering for everything from guns to toilets.
I'm hungarian and the war thing is actually true...
Me Hungarian too but... Huh?
but the real question is will it let yourself shine?
Of course.
Could use a thermal imaging tool to find the hotspot that's causing issues
ssshhh that wouldn't be as fun to watch
Hmm maybe I should try messing with liquid metal on my PC once...
Believe me, you don't want to do this, otherwise you will set your pc on fire 🔥
That liquid metal is going to short the rest of the system, so do the preparation with insulation pads.
Dont let your power supply touch the case!!!
@@After_Pasta Yeah I understood his trolling
Wow I didn't know Dawid likes me enough to give me a heart!
This is really awesome to see you try liquid metal. I can say from experience that it does immensely help with leveling out the temps as an example, on my 7700k, I got a 15c decrease under load and the fluctuation of temperatures was decreased by 5c. I hope you can come back to this at some point, it's much more difficult to do this on a GPU, and I myself wouldn't dare try this!
I have an 8700k from silicon lottery that was delided and put on liquid metal, Its been at 5.3ghz for 5-6 years, still under 60c gaming. Just amazing. Upgrading to 13900KS next month though lol, 24 core 6ghz sounds to juicy.
Oh god. I was freaking out when installing my 5600x, I can't imagine the stress of dismanteling a 3080 ten freaking times.
Honestly Pc Hardware is really simple, its all lego pieces that do a certain thing when in a certain spot.
@@bloodbath-and-beyond I meant ryzen 5 5600x, tho the 5600xt is also a great product lol
honestly only idiots manage to break gpu's when taking it apart by droping it, or stuff on it.
Did this to my 2070 super, when I delidded and and did a liquid metal application on my 3900x. Haven't seen gpu temps hit 70 C since, and it's boosting up to 2100 MHz with my OC set. Definitely an underrated procedure, that can unlock some gpu potential, without having to get a $250 waterblock, made just for that card!
Liquid Metal is best when coating both the GPU and the Coolers plate then when theyre laid back on top of each other they essentially bond together giving much better transferance of heat same with when you delid a cpu. however you need to stencil exactly where the gpu makes contact i used a scribe to draw the impression of the thermal paste made on the cooler and essentially painted between the lines, the same thin coating should be applied on both sides.
I use liquid metal on almost everything I can. One thing I don't understand is why everybody recommends clear fingernail polish to protect components. For one, there is a specific type of fingernail polish you are supposed to use for it to be safe and protect correctly. Secondly, they actually make something to do that job properly. It's called silicone conformal coating. You can get a huge jar of it on Amazon on the cheap. Also, I would say after removing a lot of that LM, it looked a little light. There should still be a decent sheen to it. Oh, and if you are going to be tearing down graphics cards and such somewhat often, it's a good idea to have a decent assortment of thermal pads around.
hi I want to ask is it true that conformal coating works? I intend to use Kapton tape.. but many also recommend conformal coating as far as I know it is used on drones or mobile RC to protect it from water
“All is well in the world, I didn’t destroy my 3080 with liquid metal, but something was definitely wrong”
Me: War in Hungary
@moose17m what war in hungary ?
@@MarcusDavidus. go to 3:05
@@MarcusDavidus. and 3:34 (I’m guessing there is quite a few of those jokes)
It was a wild ride and it was my pleasure my friend. I think a future video with some thermal pad fixes or a custom/better GPU cooler might be in order and I for one would love to watch!
Hope we get an update with the correct thermal pads. Will be interesting to see if it actually makes any difference.
Real Canadians don’t need thermal pads, they just run the computer outside
Dawid: But I learned my lesson.
*Narrator: Of course he didn't, it's Dawid.*
Your issue is due to memory junction temperature. If your memory get to 110c your card Will thermal throttle. You can check memory temperature with hwid info. They are memory chips on the back of the pcb maybie those one are the issue.
I had the same problem with my 3090 adding more thermal pad on the back helped a lot
3-6 months later... "liquid metal killed my 3080" then 1-2 years later. liquid metal killed my PS5
And after that, it starts eyeballing your family!
lasts more than 2 years. my 8086k delided and with liquid metal is still clocking 5.4ghz for over 2 years.
@@pauloa.7609 my 7700k does 5ghz with liquid metal, i swapped it 2 times and it looks like small amounts do get burned or something. Because evreytime I cleaned it there is alot of “ashe” coming of it, grey substance. Also the die isnt shiny as day one, it has gotten hazy. But temps never get above 70c.
I think ps5 come shipped with liquid metal by default
@lucky m3x no what, my dude?
AKA flexing on everyone who can’t buy one by ruining a 3080
I love Dawid's types of connections or metaphors, such an accurate representation
Hi, just started to watch your video with this one. You tried liquid metal and got probably 2-3c. Actually if you really wanna optimise thermals, power and performance. Undervolting is something to consider. I am able to run 1860@837mV and temps around 65c (25c room temp) and almost avg power draw of 250-260w. My card anyways use to throttle at 78c and stock clocks would settle at 1850-1900. So it's a win win situation for me. Zero investment, very easy and nothing to worry at all.
Did you remember when you where able to skip sponsors? such a good times :3
still possible with vanced youtube
Simple adblock.
@@volsavious2319 yup..why not.. let creator die without money right
@@AjdamusMagnus of coursem
The point of LM is not to always reduce the core temps directly, but rather the rate it takes for the heat goes from GPU to the heatsink so it gets cooled faster.
Even though the fans will still ramp up regardless if the temps are the relatively the same, at maximum load and contentions operation it will be easier to get read of heat especially in temperature spikes and if the cooler also touches other components, for obvious reasons that benefits them as well.
Interestingly, I had the same exact thing happened to me, except on my laptop. I repasted it 6 times before I got the thermal pad configuration right and I actually had to use 4 thermal pads and thermal "goo" applications on two of the remaining VRAMs because 1mm TP was too thick and 0.5mm was too thin. Nevertheless, after my 7th and final attempt, it's running better than ever and I can actually push some decent overclcok with good temps!
Hopefully this will cheer you up about thermal pads. On my EVGA 2060 the minimum thickness of pad is 5mm with one section at 10mm. (2x5mm pad stacked on top of each other) This is the factory shipped version. Great video.
This went about as well as I expected when I saw your preview posts. Still, it's nice to learn from other's mistakes, especially when it's as entertaining as Dawid's mistakes lol
I've had one gaming pc 2 years ago, a cyber power with an fx4300 & a rx460 2gb. I just recently was sparked to build my first rig. I've got all my parts ordered for my tower and am coming in a touch under $600. Stumbled upon your videos while just doing some research for my build. I am really enjoying your videos and have watched quite a few the last week. 👍
The risk/reward ratio of liquid metal application is far too unfavorable to try it on an expensive components.
Unless you're a youtuber, of course - then it makes for an potentially dramatic video;)
Haha!! I 100% agree. Also considering that it corrodes over time, it just doesn't seem worth it to me.
Meh, risky yes but definitely worth it in some cases to me. High end laptop was an oven out the box. After a little LM treatment you have to intentionally try to thermal throttle it with OC's or it'll never even get close
@@DawidDoesTechStuff it doesnt corrode, it absorbs into it. kinda weird chemically.
www.gamersnexus.net/guides/3362-how-liquid-metal-affects-copper-nickel-and-aluminum-corrosion-test
You should also have considered using K5 Pro Thermal Putty to replace the pads. It's a thick, viscous putty like stuff that's not electrically conductive, but can be compressed/flow to fit gaps and is meant to replace conventional thermal pads. It's a bit of a pain to work with, but it's effective, and very adaptable due to its playdough like consistency.
1:46 Skip sponsor (0:30 is where it starts)
Yup, thermal pads are the issue, Jay and his 2 cents mentioned that when reapplying new thermal pads you have to put on the correct thickness pads. But keep going, I'd like to see the temps with the correct pads and liquid metal. 👍🙋♂️
Very brave of you to do this with your 3080 instead of using an older card.
Seeing your desk afterwards helped me to understand I'm not alone in having this problem. Often when I'm done working on my PC I'm in flat out awe at the mess I've made lol
Don't worry man, replacing just the thermal pads had me opening up my 3080 about a dozen times over a week. Damn weird thicknesses.
Love the honesty with the sponsored kit - No doubt they expected "worked flawlessly / best i've seen" whilst you go with "worked surprisingly well"
YOU KNOW KEANU REEVES?
Yes, yes he does.
Yes, yes he does.
Ya
Linus just did a video on this thermal paste for Vram. Supposedly it increased preformance of the rtx 3080 by 20 fps vs using thermal pads.
I've always been concerned with using liquid metal, but watching you do it gives me some confidence.
Don't do it. Liquid metal is for nerd idiots that like watching "nice" numbers on their screens. The difference in temps is minimal against good thermal paste and you have a big risk of shorting something in the card and fry it.
unless your an extreme overclocking guru who knows what their doing you run the risk of completely destroying your graphics card
It is not worth it unless you know what you are doing. Unless you are well versed in overlocking GPU’s for any meaningful results, leave it alone. You can still get some extra fps by doing a slight clock without doing this, and that’s usually enough. The higher you go, the less return you see, and unless you have a good grasp of modding your GPU for extreme voltage changes, forget it. Whether your GPU runs 52 or 62 degrees during a game, does not matter.
Now if you use your GPU for machine learning purposes for example, then yes you gain something. But keep in mind that I only see a benefit because I push a pair of linked 3090’s hard - much harder than any game ever will. It can also be of value if you do multi-layer Fx editing or GPU renders, but forget it for gaming.
Kraken g12 with an x53 aio is perfect for gpus, had it on 1660ti, 1080ti and currently 2080ti. Temps are great.
This guy: has an rtx 3080
Me: Cries in intel hd 1st gen graphics
Jesus
So nice to see someone make PC repairs as I do :). I really enjoyed this video.
So basically, use thermal paste like everyone else 😆
Haha!! Exactly.
YES liquid metal is a trap it will ruin anything it touches, I wouldn't trust it within 10 feet of my PC.
@@MichaelClark-uw7ex i have it on my delided I7 8086K at 5.4ghz for over 2 years now.
@@pauloa.7609 8086 at 5.4 ghz?
My old 8086 only ran at 5 mhz, 1000 times slower.
That is some extreme overclocking, but only in 8 bits, that would kind of defeat the purpose.
@@MichaelClark-uw7ex I7 8086K, a special binned edition of the 8700K, you silly dude.
The limiting factor with the XC3 is not the heat transfer between the die and the cooler, but it is the heat transfer between the cooler and the surrounding air. Your result definitely shows that as well.
To truly utilize the potential of liquid metal, you need a water block because at the point, the limiting factor is indeed how quickly you can get that heat away from the die into the cooler. A water block is able to absorb the heat from the die much quicker and more efficiently than an air cooler.
You will see either a temperature difference or you will see higher clocks at the same temperature with liquid metal and waterblock. Also, the other benefit would be that you would be running close to 40-45C so the die will run much more efficiently to begin with. So you will be able to boost up higher while using the same amount of wattage (and therefore getting more performance at the same heat output).
I’ve heard rumours that some of these cards have some sort of tamper protection and that they act weird after disassembly
Heating the die with a heat gun of hairdryer helps literally flow the LM flow and form well around the whole die !!!
Oh yesss! Dawid you leg-end, messing with liquid metal is exactly what I asked for :D
Leg-end... Haha... Ha. Ha. Ha...
I still want to see liquid metal rwplacing water in a custom loop, i know it might (and porbably will) destroy something, but the idea is way too cool
liquid metal is pretty heavy if you were to fill a custom loop, also pretty expensive and not sure how the pump would do
End of sponsor 1:34
That was impressively fast
Thanks paly
Thanks, just submitted to Sponsorblock
So it's not just my 3080 that pumps out more heat than the Sahara...
I like how the first thing he says after showing the picture of the liquid metal on it being too much is
"Do you want to die?"
I like how he said aluminum “alaminion” 3:05
thats.. how it is supposed to be pronounced you know?
@@chazvr4997 yeah I just like how he says it with his accent I’m American and we say it differently
@@lucid4984 thats the way we pronounce it here in england, just like how you call a bin a trash can.
@@chazvr4997 oh wow that’s cool
@Muzza we say it with a different accent so it sounds soooo off haha
Maybe you could shave the spacers of the cooler down a bit? That would solve the contact problem. The paste seems to cover the bigger gap better, since it is a lot thicker than liquid metal.
Thank you for another entertaining video. What I’ve learned from this one is that I do not ... emphasize the word NOT ... want to ever tear down a video card. 😂
Not the techiest tech channel. But I enjoy your personality and accent, so I keep coming back for more
I applied liquid metal on my water cooled 3090, now it can maintain a GPU clock of 2190 MHz with max temps of 35 C (ambient is 19 C).
I got the EKWB block. Asus sell a 3090 with an EKWB block instead of an air cooler.
I don't believe you.
@@trisbane4086 , believe what you want. It’s not like you’d believe any screenshot I take. Keep in mind I was using the EVGA FTW3 500W bios. I just recently reverted to the Strix bios for resizeable bar support and it now boosts up to 2160 MHz. Can’t say I miss the 30 MHz drop in frequency though, probably only useful for benchmark scores
@@Alm8hoorOW Ok, I believe you.
preparation is key and so is a bit of clear nail polish on the bypass caps on the CPU
What about GT 710 Liquid Metal Edition ?
nice question, imagine putting the best octane gas in your old cheapo car
What I learned from my elders (I'm 70 yo rn) "Ifn it aint broke DON'T fuk with it!
As a Hungarian I take this project very seriously... lol
Replace or coat broken thermal pads with thick globs of thermal paste (silicone non-conductive). It should set up at just the right thickness.
I'd like to hear Dawid say: 3050.
Thuddy fiddy
@@_._shinonome_._Thiddy fufty ;)
I wouldn't let that liquid metal stuff within 10 feet of my computer.
Gallium is the Terminator of metals, just wait till it starts dissolving the gold in your CPU.
There is no gold in a cpu die
3:09 as a Hungarian, i would love that :D Wee need some war bad.
Ditto 😃
Well, the laast couple of wars didn't go really well, so please be careful with your liquid metal.
I thought I was the only one here, but please skip the war part
Would have loved seeing some of those sponsored Christmas lights in your rtx 3080.
At least you could have hung it in the Christmas tree then, if it was no longer able to compute.
Everytime Dawid says "kewler", you take a drink. 😂
hey Dawid is lit up like a Christmas tree😂😂😂😂😂😂
I nickel plate any copper surfaces before using any galinstan (gallium, indium, tin) thermal material like Thermal Grizzly Conductonaut. There are kits to nickel plate copper surfaces (I use one called Plug n Plate, with which I have no connection other than as a customer) that are well under $100 US, and the amount of plating material you get will do dozens of heat sinks, and it's easy (takes just a minute to set up, then just a few minutes to do the plating, then you're done). It's probably easier than a lot of people find it to actually spread the liquid metal!
Otherwise, in time the gallium in the compound will migrate into the copper over time. The amalgam formed (silver in color) is slightly less efficient at heat transfer than copper, but the difference is supposed to be negligible. The more pressing concern is that as the gallium moves into the copper, the fraction of gallium in the TIM still between the chip die and the cool plate changes, while the volume of the TIM decreases. This can lead to higher temperatures and a crusty buildup on the heat sink when you do reapply it. There is also usually some minor pitting on the copper surface where it contacts the TIM.
Nickel is far less reactive, and at least in the year or so I have used it, there has been no reduction in volume of the TIM or any pitting on the nickel plated cool plate surface on my gaming laptop. My previous laptop did start getting hotter after a few months with Thermal Grizzly Conductonaut, and it was noticeably more dry than when I applied it.
Dam you make me laugh, one day later no improvement. Love ya work lol.
you need to look at the GPUZ and see hotspot temps vs gpu temps.
if they re different, you have not enough liquid metal or its not contacting the heatsink very well due to pad sizes.
I'm not first but I am part of the discord noti gang
@Tayshaun Sandy _smooth_
Thanks for the heart dawid, for the 2nd time.
EVGA thermal pads' sizes are really weird sometimes, they have .25mm size pads lol and their shore hardness (EVGA pads are very very soft) probably is so much lower than other brands' thermal pads. If anyone is wondering, EVGA support does sell replacement thermal pads!
The pads on my card have torn/cracked a few times , if you warm them up in your hands you can squeeze them like putty, make the shape you need and re apply has always worked for me
Here's my experience with Silver King/Liquid Metal: I Watched a lot of tutorials on using Liquid Metal on GPU (1080ti) die before deciding to go this path. Finally took the plunge. It is really only for the dedicated, somewhat risk taking enthusiast, but so far worth the results (compared to 2 year old stock paste). I am using it on my 2 year old EVGA 1080Ti FTW3, which was starting to show higher temps with the old stock paste (which was on the dry side after 2 years of use). My before and after (controlled 70% fan speed) 10 min Heaven Benchmark tests showed a reduction of max stable temps from 78C (holding 1936 Mhz) to 63C (holding 1949 Mhz). The increase in temps is also slower, so in real game use the temps generally stay in the 50s with lower fan RPM. The price of this Liquid Metal is comparable to MX-4, but the risk, reward and difficulty of use is far higher. I must say, it was a bit of a tough process to carefully coat the resistors around the GPU die with clear Nail polish (without getting it on the die) and getting the right (min) amount of liquid metal on the die and the heatsink. This was all done in June 2020, and so far all's well and GPU has been keeping its 'Cool' ;)
About a year later, has anything gone wrong?
@@leyzic9272 its all good. No issues and temps are stable
liquid metal is totally unnecessary risk, using water cooling and thermal paste is way to go u can use alphacool aio extendable set for cpu and gpu plus alphacool cooling blocks for gpu. no risk involved mostly and no stupid conductive bulshiet on mobo. i once used arctic silver paste one drop in wrong spot and my asus rog hero vii mobo go to the trash becasue all pins bend over from short
For the part where you protect the soldering around the cpu there is a more specialized product you can use called conformal coating
hi I want to ask is it true that conformal coating works? I intend to use Kapton tape.. but many also recommend conformal coating as far as I know it is used on drones or mobile RC to protect it from water
That must have been frustrating lol. I applied liquid metal to my evga 970 FTW+ a while ago. After some months, I noticed crazy temps. Took it apart and it was all dried out. Whatever was on there was rock hard. I had to sand the liquid metal off the cooler plate, and carefully sand it off the top of the GPU die too. Didn't reapply, just stuck mx-4 back on but that was very blah lol.
a good tip for using liquid metal is to cover the tiny capacitors around the die with a clear coat, usually nail polish clear coat, it seals them up, keeping them from shorting and preventing war in Hungary.
I found electrical insulation tape fine. And that is very simple to remove.
runnin all govee led and light bulbs in my room and they work great, not as bright as some LED/RGB lights/strips but theyre great for the price
Fun fact. The thermal pads are just a gap filler. You don't need them to be perfect thickness. They just need to squish a little. As long as decent enough contact is made it works
Yes you will see GPUs with thick thermal blocks that are squished out a lot but those are from the factory. They're bought like that for the appropriate use case so they can be thick. Not all thermal pads are created equally after all and it is very likely that the thin pads used are rated for different temperatures. So stacking pads will mess with thermal conductivity too much
I think you need to apply liquid metal on the heatsink and the die area
My RTX 2080 was hitting 85C consistently while gaming.
It turned out that the thermal paste dried up and the thermal pads were in a bad shape.
Re-pasted it with Thermal Grizzly Conductonaut, most pads I've replaced with a thermal tape, only one needed to be thicker.
Now runs at 70C and below.
I was thinking “please don’t fuck it up, please don’t fuck it up” and “RMA it.”
I can't bring myself to disassemble a $1000+ gpu just to replace thermal paste with something as notoriously risky as liquid metal, and for minimal gains to boot. I salute you for your honorable sacrifice.
I am in love with Conducornaut. That stuff is amazing (in my case). I have a Dell G5 gaming laptop. The CPU would thermal throttle at a moment's notice. Apply some liquid metal, and I can't get it to throttle now, no matter what kind of load I use. Yes, it gets toasty and the fans scream like a banshee, but it works.
That first application of liquid metal was probably just a bit too much, but the xc3 cooler does not have very good contact to begin with, as you saw, it's not a very even or flat contact pad. take it one step further, and apply just a little bit more thermal material, and then try it again. The gains would not be in the temperatures. In fact, the way the fans are set to ramp in that specific card, ideal temperature it aims for is 75 degrees. What you will see an improvement in, is better boost clocks, or lower fan speed to maintain the same temperature. Keep going, you were almost there.
I used LM on my 1080 ti's and rtx 3090 FE. Works great.
Should try this again in the future with a water cooling block and liquid metal and see how far you can bring temps down on stock clock and then try to overclock back to OG base temps. I think that would be an extremely intriguing video.
When you said "war will break out in Hungary for some reason" I straight up lost it wow
The thermal pad issue he is somewhat similar to what happened to me. I was getting high vram temps while mining (dont worry im just using my main pc, not an actual mining rig), so decided to buy some thermal pads to try to fix it. Installed new thermal pads, but they were too thick so the die wasnt making enough contact. After trying to press them down and thin them out, and even buying thinner pads, I used thermal paste on the memory chips and it fixed my problem. Hasnt given me any problems so far, but my temps have not improved, so i came to the conclusion that the gigabyte gaming rx 5700xt just has bad memory cooling lol.
The liquid metal you applied before hand was fine and not overdone , the pea drop was the correct method
I dont know if someone mentioned you a solution to your fan problem.
The RTX 3080 has temperture sensors on it's GDDR6X video memory chips, by default, Hwmonitor cant read these out as of right now, Hwinfo could do the trick here.
GDDR6X is rated for up to 110c, if it reaches these temps (gddr6x runs really hot) the card ramps up the fans and throttles down, I'd definetly look into the temperture as it may be causing performance drops and the high fan speeds.
The GDDR6X chips are the black chips right next to the GPU, a 3080 usually has 10 1GB chips on them, you want to make sure that they are properly connected to the heatsink with thermal pads, You can also put pads on the back of the vram to help spread the heat more, that's a common thing miner's have done to get the memory cooled down, since mining ether (like it or not, but a lot of gamers do it as of recently to make some money back from their overpriced graphics card) is very memory intensive.
Some cards (especially Gigabyte, all of their versions seem to have at least some issues here) have that problem out of the box, but not as bad.
This comment is fairly late and i have no idea if he already solved the issue, but I'm very sure its a vram temperture problem, liking may help him to see it if it's in time, idk.
I have an older MSI laptop with a GTX960M and the liquid metal made a significant difference in the GPU temps. Under load it dropped about 9-10C and no longer throttles. It was scary applying it but well worth it for the performance I got from it. It is too bad that the CPU side of the heatsink is aluminum as the i7-5700HQ runs a bit warm. The GPU heat sink is copper though.
I've improved tempz by putting thermal compound on the thermal pads contacting the mem modules
I've repadded many cards. It's not just the thickness of the pads (e.g. you mention 1+1+1 is not equal to 3mm). Each pad comes with a rated shore hardness denoting how squishy it is. There are very squishy 3mm pads and harder 3mm pads. Each gpu is very specific for what it needs. Liquid metal is not really beneficial at all on these ampere cards, the gddr6x temps will overheat well before the core temp ever gets up there. Not to mention, ampere dies are convex and you need a thick paste on there for max efficiency, like TFX.