I love you sorin you've given our free knowledge to the world. I'd Learn electronics but couldn't repair but you've remove all the fear and I've learned so much running my own business now and repairing every electronics and ELECTRICAL device .
Really nice video. I tought that it is gonna be boring but actualy it was quite interesting to see how much is a lot of liquid metal and how to spread it and the results are really good.
I watched a few vids on Liquid Metal and built a new computer 2 weeks ago in which I utilized Thermal Grizzly Conductonaut LM. I have to admit I think I used a bit more than you did. I put a layer on the CPU heatspreader, I put another on the contact plate of the cooler, then I put a drop dead center of the CPU heatspreader thinking it would sit there and spread out as it compressed between the CPU and the Cooler, but NOPE!!!! It flowed outward and pooled with the rest of the LM on the heat spreader. Fine by me. I have hardly stressed the thing yet, but it is definitely running quieter than the computer it replaced. Great video.
@@sentesues9383 I have no idea what it LOOKS like, but the machine runs like a dream. I've had ZERO problems with it and it runs COOL!!!! I am a dedicated LIQUID METAL MAN now!!!!
In game consoles they cut a sponge to fit around the die that seals between the chip PCB and the heatsink, that way it's less likely to spill sideways and short stuff because it's trapped. Every interface is a thermal barrier, and even though you are reducing one interface, it can mean the heatsink can get saturated quicker, ie, it could reach the same thermals, it just takes longer.
@@OnStageLighting Yeah I think that was TronicsFix's last PS5 vid, ie, ie, someone dropped the PS5 so hard the liquid-metal slipped under the sponge and shorted the die.
To use liquid metal properly you need electroplate copper with nikiel first otherwise it will react overtime with heat-sink and temps go up and need reapply again.
Bought a syringe of LM and upgraded every device I owned, works so much better than any grease. What never happens to me is easily spreading like I saw in the video. I have to rub the swab into the chip to generate heat from friction? Don't know but it helps to spread it around.
Liquid metal is little dangerous without some protecion layer. Better start witth undervoling with Throttlestop app to deacrease temp (due to thermal throttling) and then , If you want to be safe with non conductive thermal , I recomend use for gaming laptop honeywell ptm 7950 pad. It has better performance than other paste (MX, Thermal Grizzly, etc.)
I did hear you can add like 2 solid layers of nail polish to resistors on cpu and gpu for more protection against short made by liquid metal. I dont know exactly which one nail polish it is,because i hear some are diferent. I will very high recommend you,to use something to protects all of those resistors on your gpu.
Good advice, buddy. It is always necessary to protect capacitors that are exposed to short circuits. In this case, the GPU should have the capacitors protected with varnish
@@oskarlaszkowski5028 Osobiście w laptopie używam pasty Thermall Grizzly Hydronaut,słyszałem że to jedna z najlepszych past (ogółem te wszystkie jakie mają,Cryonaut też),wolę nie ryzykować z ciekłym metalem. Pozdrawiam oraz życzę wszystkiego dobrego :)
having liquid metal on laptop is not ideal because it a portable device that can create vibration which will make the liquid metal spread when carrying in a laptop bag or a slight drop your laptop will short out
@@AutismusPrime69 if your talking to me i work as a repair tech for a company called disc depot in scotland. I do this for a living. Whos the fool now. Not got a clue what your taking about. I mostly do board rapair just like mr soron.
I watched this video when it came out. the liquid metal worked tremendously for a few months but as of now its degraded to reaching almost 100 degrees celsius. I think there was someone else who commented on the video mentioningn that this was a possibility. It does work amazzing while it does but be prepared for reaplying it every few months. The video is still great im just sharing my experience.
is your heatsink copper or nickel plated? I understood that with copper heatsink the liquid metal eats into the copper. after many reapplications of liquid metal the copper gets "soaked" with it and wont dry the liquid metal out anymore. going to first try with PTM 7950 thermal solution as it seems to last longer, 2-3 year. basically its like a sheet of thermal paste but at over 40c temps it liquidizes and act like liquid metal. phase changing material
Yes it is actually.. Upon reading your comment I actually reapplied it again because i am getting like 2 cpus out of 8 like almost a whole 10 degrees hotter than the other. i can never seem to get the figures i initially got but it is still close. Ive finished a whole gram after all the reapplications. I was dangerously generous this time though. The lmk does just stain the copper it crusts a bit aswell so maybe that will cause some unleveling. Please let me know how your PtM 7950 goes.@@ikuma8291
It's normal to happen. Galium diffuses to copper heatsink so less liquid metal is bridging the die and the heatsink. And yes, that means you have to reapply it soon. The good news is that galium diffusion will slow down considerably over time and after first 2-3 applications you won't have to do more applications that often. My laptop has great thermals (61-63°C under full load) even 2 years after my last LM application.
Your tip about making sure that the liquid metal should not be a floating bubble is been very useful and ill take that to mind just to be safe. But i recently saw a video on yt by Asus ROG liquid metal application and they used a robot arm and had spread the same kind of thin liquid metal coating like you did. But the confusing part was, the fact that it also has added two additional liquid metal drops on each side of the die and it actually appeared floating. I dont know what they did next but they definitely used a lil much of it so i wonder, did they do that because the particular laptop was made to actually hold that volume of liquid? Or was that a bad mistake?
When I was applying too little like here in this video (at least in my opinion its too little, and from experience as well but hard to be sure from video), the difference (like probably in this video) I saw was that I was pretty much comparing old crappy dried up factory thermal paste versus not so much LM (liquid metal). When I did the same on my GTX 970 from MSi (they actually were using quite well lasting thermal paste in there I have come to learn, so nothing that would quickly dry up in 2 years) and I applied the LM in similar imo sparse amount, I didnt see almost no difference at all. The difference was like pathetic 1-2°C in a very controlled bench tests with fans set to like constant 60 or 70% like usual. I knew something wasnt right because the difference was pathetic, you can either deduct that from hundreds of other videos on LM or from just thermal conductivity specifications of paste vs LM alone. So I went ahead and opened the 970 again, I cleaned the LM off, what isnt easy at all and you have to be careful not to spread it all over the pcb (masking tape and plastic wrap foil helps a ton so you dont spread it all over the pcb). I then used nail polish to protect the little pins around the gpu die, I used 2 layers, 15 minutes natural drying, then 5 minutes with hair dryer at hot temperature but not too hot, I kept my fingers in there near the gpu die so the temp is bearable. That is drying per layer, also making the second layer a bit more broad covering more area than the first one. Then I applied the LM again now applying a bit more of it so its more watery and THEN the results finally made sense, I was getting around 8-9 degrees of difference in the bech tests on the same fan setting, so almost 10°C. My understanding of this is that when you are applying the LM, the actual shiny non-watery parts arent really rich in LM, its mostly like a thin smudge of the liquid metal. When you place the cooler on it, it creates connections but it might not cover the whole cpu or gpu die, maybe it fully connects only like 40 to 50% of it, maybe more if you're lucky. That is if you aim not to have it too watery on either of the sides, so neither the cpu/gpu die nor the cooler. Since that experience of mine (and believe me I probably botched a lot of LM application before that) I now always insulate the near pins with either acrylate nail polish (regular stuff) or now mostly with a pcb insulating compound, what is essentially still a form of an acrylate varnish but its theoretically more temperature resistant, tho I never had any issue with nail polish so far and I encourage people to contact me if anything at all happens with the laptop or gpu or delided cpu. And I now also as I already mentioned put a bit more of the LM material in there, probably similar to the video you saw, in which it wasnt a mistake in case they insulated the contacts near the cpu/gpu die. Additionally I would like to also mention that its also important (to get better results) to saturate the copper with LM, or to damage the top plating of the cooler or cpu/gpu die with the LM prior to installation, then wipe the material off and scrub it really well. The more you leave the bit of LM in there to react, the better, then scrub it off, and then it should be ready for final real application. The copper should look smudgy and dirty (saturated with LM) and nickel plating or gpu/cpu die should look smudgy and damaged as well. This just removes the top layer for better performance/ better contact between the surface and the LM. You basically just use a tiny bit of LM on surfaces and let it sit there for half a day then scrub it off real well, obviously without installing it. Then you apply it for real and install, after cleaning it off, but this process is a bit more advanced, but it would explain why some people have better results the second time they re-apply the LM after a few years (what I never do unless I notice performance drop).. My personal longest experience with this (in use today) is 7700K delided and 1080 Ti. Both have nail polish, both had top layers broken in with LM prior to real application and both had a bit more of it applied. I still keep my benchmark specs and notes so I can test it as similarly as possibly to see if there is any performance degradation and so far now in like 5-6 years I am still getting more or less almost exactly the same results. I just assume it doesnt degrade in way (like many people say it shouldnt) and I also assume the nail polish is still in a good shape as well as I am almost positive it spilled over a bit to the sides.
its not a mistake, if u already disassembly asus rog gaming laptop u can see some materials like silicone around the cpu to prevent the liquid mental to spill out.
there's alot of pitting on the cpu processor man unless its dust but i dont think so ive never seen so much pitting on a cpu before and some ppl use a clear nail polish to coat the caps around the cpu and gpu to protect them from shorts also i say that the cpu gets up to 87 deg before it was 95 thats pretty good but is that temp really work possibly shorting stuff out not for the average user to do
@@dariobarisic3502 if your pad is with fans and they are positioned correctly so the air blows into the intake then it will make a difference. OEM paste on mine is quite close to its end life and is pretty shitty, last time I added a second nvme ssd and checked it was more like dry concrete, not paste.. I made a custom stand that blows air directly into the intake and it reduces both CPU and GPU temps by like 5 degrees and cinebench r23 gets like 20% better score.
@@marks9127 I mean, 5°C is not great, not terrible. It's more than I would ever expect and ever achieved with cooling pad. I just default to liquid metal and don't need to worry about overheating, at least until I need to apply it again.
@@dariobarisic3502 How is your experience so far? I was thinking about applying it too for GPU and CPU. I've only found one dude who did this on a model I have and he said results were substantial. I was going to do it, and I knew how to apply it correctly without damaging anything, but then many people said that if you move the device around a lot then it can move away too and cause overheating and/or shorting something, some said its a mess to clean it when it needs to be reapplied and even if you have copper heatsink it will eat it away, not as much as alum but still.
@@marks9127 APPLICATION: I'm sure you're already informed on this part, but I'll add some tips just in case. Apply several layers of nail polish or similar insulating substance to nearby area. I also added electrical tape around the CPU/GPU dies, but it's crucial to limit this to one non-overlaping layer only. Otherwise it might interfere with contact of CPU/GPU with heatsink. Cu HEATSINK ISSUES: The gallium from the liquid metal will diffuse into copper. But don't worry, the Cu/Ga alloy has basically just as good thermal conductivity as pure Cu. This does mean you will need to reapply it more often than if you had Ni heatsink. I had to do it every 8-10 months two or three times, and since then it lasts much longer (I assume because Cu heatsink reached its solubility limit for Galium, idk). Regarding CPU/GPU dies, it goes away easily with ethanol or something similar. RISK OF DAMAGE: I've got my laptop in my bag in vertical position all the time and nothing happened. I understand some people are vary of it spilling because its a liquid. But its also a metal, and its very cohesive (like a mercury basically). This is annoying when you have to spread it onto the CPU/GPU but once you do it sticks very well. If you don't apply comically large amount of it you should have no problems, but also don't put too little, especially when you first appply because it will diffuse within months to Cu and then you will have very poor performance. Basically if you put sufficient amount over both the die and the heatsink and spread it well you should really notice the difference. I don't think the results should vary significantly from model to model, but tbh I only done this on two models which are very similar (both ACER predator series). Sorry for the long comment lol!
To be honest I wouldn't be looking at clock speeds, rather I would be looking at power (watts), since that is the metric of heat flow and it will give a better picture of performance between different thermal pastes (°C for given power wattage), furthermore the software "intel dynamic tuning" is programmed by the laptop manufacturers which sets long term and short term power limits which often skewers these types of tests because whenever the processor uses turbo it takes out power from the long term "pool", and you see this effect when the processor power drops to 40ish Watts after a period of time and the temperature generally settles lower, i think you started the gpu stress test on the second run when the power on the cpu settled on this lower power level, if you activated both simultaneously at the start the temperature would spike higher. Also even though MX paste is good there are better ones out there like kryonaut, the temperature difference between those two is much smaller (conductonaut and kryonaut) Lastly people often replace the paste with liquid metal and see no difference at all because there are other bottlenecks in the cooling solution, and this is simply because of either heatpipe power limitations, airflow rate of the fan or the heatspread size.
Well, everyone has an opinion, i respect that, i can be wrong , but the cpu benchmark software is not wrong, the laptop gained 1000 points on the benchmark, this says a lot
@@electronicsrepairschool oh yes in this case you are right you have improvement of at least 5°C but I was thinking in general a lot of people might not see such an improvement because of other bottlenecks, also if you compared it to kryonaut paste the difference is likely to be much less. Anyways thanks for your videos, very interesting and always learn something new.
I didn't want to risk putting liquid metal on my laptop because it seemed to suffer from paste pump out issues. Normal paste just never lasted long (maybe few days to a few weeks if I'm lucky). It started out great and over time I saw the CPU creeping its way back to the 90C region. When I removed the heatsink, the paste would always be pushed out to the sides and was barely covering the actual die. I was afraid liquid metal would end up pumping out in similar fashion, so never tried to apply it. Fortunately, I heard about some phase-change pad called "Honeywell PTM9750". It takes a while to get because it comes from China, but wow, it made a difference. I wasn't expecting much, but since putting that pad on, I haven't encountered CPU overheating problems like before. I added the pad several months ago and the CPU temperature is still doing good. For those that don't want to use liquid metal because of the risk, the Honeywell PTM9750 is something to try if you can get hold of it. It seems awesome for the long-term. I would always have to keep changing pastes often with normal pastes. That doesn't seem to be a problem any more.
How is this worth the switch from standard thermal paste? Would not fixing airflow, or larger cooler have a bigger difference in standard use? (Air cooled, no experience in liquid cooling)
The film should be a model of applying liquid metal to everyone. Because people bet too much on it. I marked the exact place on the heatsink with tape, and I covered the weak points with PCB varnish.
It would be nice to see the same video on a low TDP CPU, I don't think the difference would be that much, with the time the gallium/indium get mixed with copper in an a new alloy and before you apply a new one maybe the heatsink has to be cleaned with something like polish. Thanks for the video,keep up the good job
I switched to Honeywell 7950PTM Phase change thermal material on hot laptop and GPU DIE's because regular easy spread paste pumps out especially on 80+ degrees celsius. The only downside with phase change is that you have to let the paste/pad cure for 2 hours before placing the heatsink. Long term stability of liquid metal takes a lot of prepare time on copper heatsinks.
I tried that on my RX 5700xt GPU but after few months temps are getting worse. I think that I will try liquid metal because I tried many pastes and they all pumped out.
ty sir for the video, I have almost same laptop I managed to drop my temps to 85 for the processor by disabling turbo boost however my gpu is hitting 88/89 celsius causing my frames to drop a lot, do I need to repaste?
maybe it's not a good idea to do it on a raw cooper heat sink,, i have tried myself years ago two times. in a windows of 3 to 9 month the galium and indium will react to the cooper and stop working propelly (seems to separate). at the time i have found an interisting forum post about it but it's gone now. and i don't talk about aluminium kind of reaction, you will can recover you're heatsink from it. nikel plated cooper is better for those things. let's see if you will have this issue in the next future.
@@SianaGearz yes, i made some experiences whit it. when it lose efficiency i see black spot in it, i sand paper until all came to cooper or silver.then you even could use thermal paste on it with correct performence.i prefer to stop using metal because i don't like to comme over it too often (note : i dind"nt broke my laptop in the process ,8year and going).
@@the_seb9587 Hey man. I want to learn if we renew the LM every 6 months or so, can we have the same performance again. I mean, is the damage from the reaction you mention permanent? And do you think LM is worth doing? How big is the difference between a premium paste and LM?
@@ahmetarslan2748 i use sand paper (very thin one) to get rid of the hardened metal and each time there is no damages, but i think it"s too mutch risk for the result hi end unconductive thermal paste is better when you're cooler is not nickel plated
LM has 1 advantage and too many dangerous disadvantages: it stains the copper, it pits the CPU/GPU, shortcircuit danger, it somehow solidifies with time, hard to apply, hard to clean. I would use it only in the most intensive CPU/GPU applications (mining etc) and if the hardware is disposable to you.
Hi. I have a pre-owned Dell Inspiron 15 7567. It worked fine During the first 3 days of owning it until Dell Update software popped a notification about a latest Bios version 1.15.0 and latest Intel ME Software update of which I updated. It rebooted and firstly, Upgraded Bios from version 1.8.1 to 1.15.0 then it started upgrading Intel ME firmware. After that update, my laptop shuts down without notice (Like thermal shutdown) I checked Thermal Paste on the processor and the Graphics Chip and it was dry. Replacing thermal paste has not helped me. Now I've noticed that laptop shuts down in less than a minute when the charger is connected while playing mp3 only, but when running on the battery alone, it's working fine without shutting down until I run games then fan will run fast and laptop suddenly shuts down. Please help me with information that can make me solve this problem.
hi did you get the dell to work? just few tips: try reset the bios. monitor temps when it shuts down. does the mosfets, vram etc have thermal pads on them?
A laptop is made to be carried, put in a bag, i would never put liquid metal on something moving because you can be sure something will go wrong quicly
Great stuff i have to try it 👍 But how you getting on with them solar panels i was going to buy it from you 😆 Im trying to set up independent ultimate mancave and would love your input on this solar solution 👌
Hi Sorin, I have a toshiba satellite L845 laptop with amd apu A6 4400m cpu which heats up to 98 - 100 degrees in just about 5 minutes of turning it on, then it turns off, I already changed thermal paste, the cooler fan spins well, I see it in good heatsink Status, will the motherboard have any electronic problems? Maybe some smd thermal sensor? I hope you can guide me on what to check, I already have the schematic of the motherboard but I don't know where to check it, thanks!
Dont use liquid metal on copper laptop coolers...You need a nickel plated one. Its gonna go bad after a while. I used TG Conductonaut and had to reaply it 3 times to my elitebook in like half a year, it dried up and the cpu was overheating. The cooling was amazing at first but it started degrading over time. In the end i used arctic mx4 and it still fine a year later.
Thermal grizzly conductonauts is fine with pure copper. It will stained the copper heavily - compared to nickle - but not affecting thermal performance. Gamers nexus had tested it many years ago. I reapplied it every year or so, but yeah the copper looked ugly af, impossible to clean the stain!
I have pure copper on my CPU water block (With i7 6850K - so nothing new and nothing cold) :D And still work after years without problems or visible degradation ..... Probably something is in thermal grizzly because I saw many threads how liquid metal is monolithic with cooler (or chip) and still people talk abou TG
The problem maybe is also the mounting pressure on laptop coolers coolers. I realy dont know what exactly caused the drying up... but it happened 3 times and the cpu went nuclear with full fan speed on load... after sanding the the dried up metal and reaplying a tiny amount of fresh it was whisper quiet and cool again for mybe 2 months... the laptop was a elitebook x360 1030 G4 with a i7-8565U case made fully out of aluminium (yes i know im crazy haha)
@@benywiratmaka8636 hey I'm thinking of applying that paste on my razer 15 2019 and I'm pretty sure it's pure copper heat sink. I'm concerned of the paste being absorbed into the copper over time. You are saying that it won't? My biggest concern is what happened to this guy where he had to re apply again and again.
well i do miss cover all by laquer.-.- hot liquid metal can splash when game bounce the hot laptop.. or just trow it on bag in hurry i already solve some case on GPU too.. so never forget laquer all around IC itself.. it is conductive
Very impressive test dear Sorin. Unfortunately you may have forgotten to post the affiliate link to the Liquid Metal, who knows how many will be buying this Liquid Metal now!! haha 😃😃
You added the liquid metal without protecting the SMDs next to the die first with lacquer? Are you trying to cause a short? This is not the right way to do it 😬
İt can work in laptops but for PC overclock gain is now nearly nothing bc destop cpus running on the edge already it boost up to edge performance whenever needs ,manufacturers not left place to go.
You have to use a rwgular thermal paste first. You have to put a Windows sticker abve the processor, chipset, video chip the right way. It can be an illegal one. The processor, such as dual core can recognize the vista lines over the cover. After regular use, it will reduce the heat. Your legal eg win 7 code is recognized by a satellite, reading the code from the dvd cover once a year offline. After your computer is off the default blacklist, you can use the liquidmetal.
Asus ROG zephyrus dead from factory liquid metal, it was all over the CPu, under the plastic shim protector and on capacitors You could literally test conductivity between the liquid metal blob and common ground
Same here Acer Nitro 5 with i7 10750H + RTX 3060 With thermal paste was terrible performace (At least CPU was hot from anything) With liquid metal I watch this video and fans not spinning ,before with thermal paste fans not spin maybe 15-20sec after turn on laptop :
Its the way how to gain more costumers . Show them quality of liquid metal and hope, they will try it at home without experience 😀Just joking 🙂Nice video, thank U. I was surprised, how little of metal is enough.
Sorin Liquid metal in any case should not be used with copper. Both react chemically with each other and solid crystals are formed. These press into the silicon core and the CPU or GPU die. I have seen this several times myself with our customers. Our conclusion: Liquid metal does not belong in a mobile device. Unless you do it like Asus. A silicone frame around the CPU silicon core and a coated cooler that does not react chemically with liquid metal.
That's not true. I've watched many videos on that. Copper is the best material with liquid metal. There is a reason why all the water cooling blocks are made with copper, and those manufacturers usually consider the liquid metal cooling too. It's specifically designed like that.
As stated: Manufacturers, that design their devices using liquid metal also nickelplate the copper since it is a known issue, that copper also gets corroded by liquid metal. (Sony and ASUS for example) @@adamvebaloisnotavailable
Thermal paste for ever, I have no idea why anyone would need liquid metal for standard use. I have seen too many that have stuffed their computer or video card just to save a few degrees. If you computer is over heating, it obviously something is wrong.
My next pc I’m doing custom water cooling with contact frame Liquid Metal t30 fans might delid not if it’s too risky. I STG I was messing with 12600k bios settings BLCK ovc or something I press control shift esc to see cpu speed it said 6+ghz I STG it went to like 6.7 ghz down to 6.4 changing I immediately shut my pc off to turn off all the settings I have a 240mm aio and I thought I was gonna break my cpu
I prep the PCB with non-conductive electrical glue around the chip (when working on delidder CPU) or around the ihs on AMD or certain Intel boards and haven't had an issue. Prep work let's you get what is advertised for the components you purchase without risk.
The cooling of the MAC laptops is simply a joke, I remember how many made fun of it at the time e.g. Rossmann. That's why I would never buy Apple products, either that is absolute incompetence or intentionally, there is no other explanation.
Says "put just a little bit of liquid metal to GPU and CPU" and proceeds putting a LOT of liquid metal onto the heatsink side... :) Also you really want to isolate the components on the GPU and CPU dies using nail polish or something before applying liquid metal...
Thank you for sharing. Yesterday I received this from one of the videos how to spot faulty CPUs I think "Congratulations you have been selected among my lucky winner's dm to claim your prize now telegram only" no worries I did not respond, as I treated it as a sacm. Please warn others.
Meh... My temps are horrible with LM. Definitely changeing back to paste, this is ridiculous, it runs at like 75° in idle. "10x better" yeah sure, but not in this reality. lol
I love you sorin you've given our free knowledge to the world. I'd Learn electronics but couldn't repair but you've remove all the fear and I've learned so much running my own business now and repairing every electronics and ELECTRICAL device .
U earned my respect
No background music and non sense
Clear and beautiful explanation 😊
You're teaching this old dog new tricks! Absolutely fantastic lesson on how heat effects performance.
Really nice video. I tought that it is gonna be boring but actualy it was quite interesting to see how much is a lot of liquid metal and how to spread it and the results are really good.
Amazing video Sorin! Thank you for sharing this knowledge!
This new format is awesome 👍
I watched a few vids on Liquid Metal and built a new computer 2 weeks ago in which I utilized Thermal Grizzly Conductonaut LM. I have to admit I think I used a bit more than you did. I put a layer on the CPU heatspreader, I put another on the contact plate of the cooler, then I put a drop dead center of the CPU heatspreader thinking it would sit there and spread out as it compressed between the CPU and the Cooler, but NOPE!!!! It flowed outward and pooled with the rest of the LM on the heat spreader. Fine by me. I have hardly stressed the thing yet, but it is definitely running quieter than the computer it replaced. Great video.
How's it looking now?
@@sentesues9383 I have no idea what it LOOKS like, but the machine runs like a dream. I've had ZERO problems with it and it runs COOL!!!! I am a dedicated LIQUID METAL MAN now!!!!
Nicely explained. Thanks, Sorin!
In game consoles they cut a sponge to fit around the die that seals between the chip PCB and the heatsink, that way it's less likely to spill sideways and short stuff because it's trapped.
Every interface is a thermal barrier, and even though you are reducing one interface, it can mean the heatsink can get saturated quicker, ie, it could reach the same thermals, it just takes longer.
And on the PS5, the liquid metal can run to the bottom side of the die and the console overheats! :-)
@@OnStageLighting Yeah I think that was TronicsFix's last PS5 vid, ie, ie, someone dropped the PS5 so hard the liquid-metal slipped under the sponge and shorted the die.
To use liquid metal properly you need electroplate copper with nikiel first otherwise it will react overtime with heat-sink and temps go up and need reapply again.
You generally only need to apply it once more and it lasts for years.
This is a very dangerous gamble for the uninitiated.
Bought a syringe of LM and upgraded every device I owned, works so much better than any grease.
What never happens to me is easily spreading like I saw in the video. I have to rub the swab into the chip to generate heat from friction? Don't know but it helps to spread it around.
Great experiment and explanation of how liquid metal improves performance.
Liquid metal is little dangerous without some protecion layer. Better start witth undervoling with Throttlestop app to deacrease temp (due to thermal throttling) and then , If you want to be safe with non conductive thermal , I recomend use for gaming laptop honeywell ptm 7950 pad. It has better performance than other paste (MX, Thermal Grizzly, etc.)
I did hear you can add like 2 solid layers of nail polish to resistors on cpu and gpu for more protection against short made by liquid metal. I dont know exactly which one nail polish it is,because i hear some are diferent. I will very high recommend you,to use something to protects all of those resistors on your gpu.
Good advice, buddy. It is always necessary to protect capacitors that are exposed to short circuits. In this case, the GPU should have the capacitors protected with varnish
@@oskarlaszkowski5028 Osobiście w laptopie używam pasty Thermall Grizzly Hydronaut,słyszałem że to jedna z najlepszych past (ogółem te wszystkie jakie mają,Cryonaut też),wolę nie ryzykować z ciekłym metalem. Pozdrawiam oraz życzę wszystkiego dobrego :)
@@Hardey-li6eb mozna zabezpieczyn kaptonem, lakierem pcb, solder maska
Tg shield Thermal grizzly
Nice video sir, great explanation
You wouldn't think such a thin layer of liquid metal could make such a significant difference. Amazing.
having liquid metal on laptop is not ideal because it a portable device that can create vibration which will make the liquid metal spread when carrying in a laptop bag or a slight drop your laptop will short out
Your supposed to have a gasket round the cpu/apu to stop leaks. Ps5 has the same.
Nah its fine. You need to go back to school
@@AutismusPrime69 if your talking to me i work as a repair tech for a company called disc depot in scotland. I do this for a living. Whos the fool now. Not got a clue what your taking about. I mostly do board rapair just like mr soron.
@@AutismusPrime69 if you dont believe me call the shop. Its disc depot dundee. I will sure confirm over the phone.
@@darrenstrathdee7425 Gasket is a must and also varnish to protect that caps around the GPU Die
Amazing dedication to apllication! Thanks
Wonderful video, really enjoyed it.
I watched this video when it came out. the liquid metal worked tremendously for a few months but as of now its degraded to reaching almost 100 degrees celsius. I think there was someone else who commented on the video mentioningn that this was a possibility. It does work amazzing while it does but be prepared for reaplying it every few months. The video is still great im just sharing my experience.
is your heatsink copper or nickel plated? I understood that with copper heatsink the liquid metal eats into the copper. after many reapplications of liquid metal the copper gets "soaked" with it and wont dry the liquid metal out anymore. going to first try with PTM 7950 thermal solution as it seems to last longer, 2-3 year. basically its like a sheet of thermal paste but at over 40c temps it liquidizes and act like liquid metal. phase changing material
Yes it is actually.. Upon reading your comment I actually reapplied it again because i am getting like 2 cpus out of 8 like almost a whole 10 degrees hotter than the other. i can never seem to get the figures i initially got but it is still close. Ive finished a whole gram after all the reapplications. I was dangerously generous this time though. The lmk does just stain the copper it crusts a bit aswell so maybe that will cause some unleveling. Please let me know how your PtM 7950 goes.@@ikuma8291
It's normal to happen. Galium diffuses to copper heatsink so less liquid metal is bridging the die and the heatsink. And yes, that means you have to reapply it soon. The good news is that galium diffusion will slow down considerably over time and after first 2-3 applications you won't have to do more applications that often. My laptop has great thermals (61-63°C under full load) even 2 years after my last LM application.
This helped a lot thank you
when you use a cotton swab, don''t you get a bunch of cotton fibers into the liquid metal or paste???
Liquid Metal worst to use because if goes on the motherboard and short circuit it , and then you make more money lol
Thank you Master for the procedure shown..i am going to apply thr liquid metal dissipazione on my laptop!!! I tought italiani Was a hard thing to do
Your tip about making sure that the liquid metal should not be a floating bubble is been very useful and ill take that to mind just to be safe. But i recently saw a video on yt by Asus ROG liquid metal application and they used a robot arm and had spread the same kind of thin liquid metal coating like you did. But the confusing part was, the fact that it also has added two additional liquid metal drops on each side of the die and it actually appeared floating. I dont know what they did next but they definitely used a lil much of it so i wonder, did they do that because the particular laptop was made to actually hold that volume of liquid? Or was that a bad mistake?
When I was applying too little like here in this video (at least in my opinion its too little, and from experience as well but hard to be sure from video), the difference (like probably in this video) I saw was that I was pretty much comparing old crappy dried up factory thermal paste versus not so much LM (liquid metal).
When I did the same on my GTX 970 from MSi (they actually were using quite well lasting thermal paste in there I have come to learn, so nothing that would quickly dry up in 2 years) and I applied the LM in similar imo sparse amount, I didnt see almost no difference at all. The difference was like pathetic 1-2°C in a very controlled bench tests with fans set to like constant 60 or 70% like usual. I knew something wasnt right because the difference was pathetic, you can either deduct that from hundreds of other videos on LM or from just thermal conductivity specifications of paste vs LM alone.
So I went ahead and opened the 970 again, I cleaned the LM off, what isnt easy at all and you have to be careful not to spread it all over the pcb (masking tape and plastic wrap foil helps a ton so you dont spread it all over the pcb). I then used nail polish to protect the little pins around the gpu die, I used 2 layers, 15 minutes natural drying, then 5 minutes with hair dryer at hot temperature but not too hot, I kept my fingers in there near the gpu die so the temp is bearable. That is drying per layer, also making the second layer a bit more broad covering more area than the first one. Then I applied the LM again now applying a bit more of it so its more watery and THEN the results finally made sense, I was getting around 8-9 degrees of difference in the bech tests on the same fan setting, so almost 10°C.
My understanding of this is that when you are applying the LM, the actual shiny non-watery parts arent really rich in LM, its mostly like a thin smudge of the liquid metal. When you place the cooler on it, it creates connections but it might not cover the whole cpu or gpu die, maybe it fully connects only like 40 to 50% of it, maybe more if you're lucky. That is if you aim not to have it too watery on either of the sides, so neither the cpu/gpu die nor the cooler.
Since that experience of mine (and believe me I probably botched a lot of LM application before that) I now always insulate the near pins with either acrylate nail polish (regular stuff) or now mostly with a pcb insulating compound, what is essentially still a form of an acrylate varnish but its theoretically more temperature resistant, tho I never had any issue with nail polish so far and I encourage people to contact me if anything at all happens with the laptop or gpu or delided cpu. And I now also as I already mentioned put a bit more of the LM material in there, probably similar to the video you saw, in which it wasnt a mistake in case they insulated the contacts near the cpu/gpu die.
Additionally I would like to also mention that its also important (to get better results) to saturate the copper with LM, or to damage the top plating of the cooler or cpu/gpu die with the LM prior to installation, then wipe the material off and scrub it really well. The more you leave the bit of LM in there to react, the better, then scrub it off, and then it should be ready for final real application. The copper should look smudgy and dirty (saturated with LM) and nickel plating or gpu/cpu die should look smudgy and damaged as well. This just removes the top layer for better performance/ better contact between the surface and the LM. You basically just use a tiny bit of LM on surfaces and let it sit there for half a day then scrub it off real well, obviously without installing it. Then you apply it for real and install, after cleaning it off, but this process is a bit more advanced, but it would explain why some people have better results the second time they re-apply the LM after a few years (what I never do unless I notice performance drop)..
My personal longest experience with this (in use today) is 7700K delided and 1080 Ti. Both have nail polish, both had top layers broken in with LM prior to real application and both had a bit more of it applied. I still keep my benchmark specs and notes so I can test it as similarly as possibly to see if there is any performance degradation and so far now in like 5-6 years I am still getting more or less almost exactly the same results. I just assume it doesnt degrade in way (like many people say it shouldnt) and I also assume the nail polish is still in a good shape as well as I am almost positive it spilled over a bit to the sides.
its not a mistake, if u already disassembly asus rog gaming laptop u can see some materials like silicone around the cpu to prevent the liquid mental to spill out.
True, also as the processor overclocks itself you might get the same temperatures or close but with more core clock improvement Sorin
there's alot of pitting on the cpu processor man unless its dust but i dont think so ive never seen so much pitting on a cpu before and some ppl use a clear nail polish to coat the caps around the cpu and gpu to protect them from shorts also i say that the cpu gets up to 87 deg before it was 95 thats pretty good but is that temp really work possibly shorting stuff out not for the average user to do
How long will LM last/work before you need to replace it? I read it will even work its way into copper as well, does it harm copper?
Why not use non condective guard, like nail polish on side of these chip so if liquid metal spell then it will not damage mother board on side o
Even adding a simple cooling pas or raising a laptop, improves the clocks. Keeping it clean is also important
That's if your cooling bottleneck is bad fan exhaust. But if it's dried out thermal paste it's not gonna make a difference.
@@dariobarisic3502 if your pad is with fans and they are positioned correctly so the air blows into the intake then it will make a difference. OEM paste on mine is quite close to its end life and is pretty shitty, last time I added a second nvme ssd and checked it was more like dry concrete, not paste.. I made a custom stand that blows air directly into the intake and it reduces both CPU and GPU temps by like 5 degrees and cinebench r23 gets like 20% better score.
@@marks9127 I mean, 5°C is not great, not terrible. It's more than I would ever expect and ever achieved with cooling pad. I just default to liquid metal and don't need to worry about overheating, at least until I need to apply it again.
@@dariobarisic3502 How is your experience so far? I was thinking about applying it too for GPU and CPU. I've only found one dude who did this on a model I have and he said results were substantial. I was going to do it, and I knew how to apply it correctly without damaging anything, but then many people said that if you move the device around a lot then it can move away too and cause overheating and/or shorting something, some said its a mess to clean it when it needs to be reapplied and even if you have copper heatsink it will eat it away, not as much as alum but still.
@@marks9127 APPLICATION: I'm sure you're already informed on this part, but I'll add some tips just in case. Apply several layers of nail polish or similar insulating substance to nearby area. I also added electrical tape around the CPU/GPU dies, but it's crucial to limit this to one non-overlaping layer only. Otherwise it might interfere with contact of CPU/GPU with heatsink.
Cu HEATSINK ISSUES: The gallium from the liquid metal will diffuse into copper. But don't worry, the Cu/Ga alloy has basically just as good thermal conductivity as pure Cu. This does mean you will need to reapply it more often than if you had Ni heatsink. I had to do it every 8-10 months two or three times, and since then it lasts much longer (I assume because Cu heatsink reached its solubility limit for Galium, idk).
Regarding CPU/GPU dies, it goes away easily with ethanol or something similar.
RISK OF DAMAGE: I've got my laptop in my bag in vertical position all the time and nothing happened. I understand some people are vary of it spilling because its a liquid. But its also a metal, and its very cohesive (like a mercury basically). This is annoying when you have to spread it onto the CPU/GPU but once you do it sticks very well. If you don't apply comically large amount of it you should have no problems, but also don't put too little, especially when you first appply because it will diffuse within months to Cu and then you will have very poor performance.
Basically if you put sufficient amount over both the die and the heatsink and spread it well you should really notice the difference.
I don't think the results should vary significantly from model to model, but tbh I only done this on two models which are very similar (both ACER predator series).
Sorry for the long comment lol!
To be honest I wouldn't be looking at clock speeds, rather I would be looking at power (watts), since that is the metric of heat flow and it will give a better picture of performance between different thermal pastes (°C for given power wattage), furthermore the software "intel dynamic tuning" is programmed by the laptop manufacturers which sets long term and short term power limits which often skewers these types of tests because whenever the processor uses turbo it takes out power from the long term "pool", and you see this effect when the processor power drops to 40ish Watts after a period of time and the temperature generally settles lower, i think you started the gpu stress test on the second run when the power on the cpu settled on this lower power level, if you activated both simultaneously at the start the temperature would spike higher.
Also even though MX paste is good there are better ones out there like kryonaut, the temperature difference between those two is much smaller (conductonaut and kryonaut)
Lastly people often replace the paste with liquid metal and see no difference at all because there are other bottlenecks in the cooling solution, and this is simply because of either heatpipe power limitations, airflow rate of the fan or the heatspread size.
Well, everyone has an opinion, i respect that, i can be wrong , but the cpu benchmark software is not wrong, the laptop gained 1000 points on the benchmark, this says a lot
@@electronicsrepairschool oh yes in this case you are right you have improvement of at least 5°C but I was thinking in general a lot of people might not see such an improvement because of other bottlenecks, also if you compared it to kryonaut paste the difference is likely to be much less.
Anyways thanks for your videos, very interesting and always learn something new.
I didn't want to risk putting liquid metal on my laptop because it seemed to suffer from paste pump out issues. Normal paste just never lasted long (maybe few days to a few weeks if I'm lucky). It started out great and over time I saw the CPU creeping its way back to the 90C region. When I removed the heatsink, the paste would always be pushed out to the sides and was barely covering the actual die. I was afraid liquid metal would end up pumping out in similar fashion, so never tried to apply it.
Fortunately, I heard about some phase-change pad called "Honeywell PTM9750". It takes a while to get because it comes from China, but wow, it made a difference. I wasn't expecting much, but since putting that pad on, I haven't encountered CPU overheating problems like before. I added the pad several months ago and the CPU temperature is still doing good.
For those that don't want to use liquid metal because of the risk, the Honeywell PTM9750 is something to try if you can get hold of it. It seems awesome for the long-term. I would always have to keep changing pastes often with normal pastes. That doesn't seem to be a problem any more.
I don't have any pumping out effects on my i7-9750H laptops for 2 years.
You do not have insulated the component around the cpu die.....or yes? Liquid metal can spill out from side when laptop is vertical
How is this worth the switch from standard thermal paste? Would not fixing airflow, or larger cooler have a bigger difference in standard use? (Air cooled, no experience in liquid cooling)
The film should be a model of applying liquid metal to everyone. Because people bet too much on it. I marked the exact place on the heatsink with tape, and I covered the weak points with PCB varnish.
It would be nice to see the same video on a low TDP CPU, I don't think the difference would be that much, with the time the gallium/indium get mixed with copper in an a new alloy and before you apply a new one maybe the heatsink has to be cleaned with something like polish. Thanks for the video,keep up the good job
As soon as I'll find a ps5 heatsink on ebay I will apply nickel on It and try to make It as regular base (practice makes perfect)
@@Alex-mj7km I wrote and asked for a comparison video, I will check my former comment, maybe there are any mistakes or maybe you misunderstood.
I switched to Honeywell 7950PTM Phase change thermal material on hot laptop and GPU DIE's because regular easy spread paste pumps out especially on 80+ degrees celsius. The only downside with phase change is that you have to let the paste/pad cure for 2 hours before placing the heatsink.
Long term stability of liquid metal takes a lot of prepare time on copper heatsinks.
I tried that on my RX 5700xt GPU but after few months temps are getting worse. I think that I will try liquid metal because I tried many pastes and they all pumped out.
ty sir for the video, I have almost same laptop I managed to drop my temps to 85 for the processor by disabling turbo boost however my gpu is hitting 88/89 celsius causing my frames to drop a lot, do I need to repaste?
maybe it's not a good idea to do it on a raw cooper heat sink,, i have tried myself years ago two times.
in a windows of 3 to 9 month the galium and indium will react to the cooper and stop working propelly (seems to separate).
at the time i have found an interisting forum post about it but it's gone now.
and i don't talk about aluminium kind of reaction, you will can recover you're heatsink from it.
nikel plated cooper is better for those things.
let's see if you will have this issue in the next future.
I'm lead to believe you have to let a sufficient amount of gallium soak into the copper, or you can nickel plate it.
@@SianaGearz yes, i made some experiences whit it. when it lose efficiency i see black spot in it, i sand paper until all came to cooper or silver.then you even could use thermal paste on it with correct performence.i prefer to stop using metal because i don't like to comme over it too often (note : i dind"nt broke my laptop in the process ,8year and going).
@@the_seb9587 I've been experimenting with nickel plating, I think I'll try that.
@@the_seb9587 Hey man. I want to learn if we renew the LM every 6 months or so, can we have the same performance again. I mean, is the damage from the reaction you mention permanent? And do you think LM is worth doing? How big is the difference between a premium paste and LM?
@@ahmetarslan2748 i use sand paper (very thin one) to get rid of the hardened metal and each time there is no damages, but i think it"s too mutch risk for the result hi end unconductive thermal paste is better when you're cooler is not nickel plated
You should try indium also
it's not only about the danger of conductivity,Liquid Metal will stain & eff up the die
No insulating pad?
where do you get liquid metal
LM has 1 advantage and too many dangerous disadvantages: it stains the copper, it pits the CPU/GPU, shortcircuit danger, it somehow solidifies with time, hard to apply, hard to clean. I would use it only in the most intensive CPU/GPU applications (mining etc) and if the hardware is disposable to you.
where do i get that liquid metal ?
Hi. I have a pre-owned Dell Inspiron 15 7567. It worked fine
During the first 3 days of owning it until Dell Update software popped a notification about a latest Bios version 1.15.0 and latest Intel ME Software update of which I updated. It rebooted and firstly, Upgraded Bios from version 1.8.1 to 1.15.0 then it started upgrading Intel ME firmware. After that update, my laptop shuts down without notice (Like thermal shutdown)
I checked Thermal Paste on the processor and the Graphics Chip and it was dry. Replacing thermal paste has not helped me.
Now I've noticed that laptop shuts down in less than a minute when the charger is connected while playing mp3 only, but when running on the battery alone, it's working fine without shutting down until I run games then fan will run fast and laptop suddenly shuts down. Please help me with information that can make me solve this problem.
hi did you get the dell to work? just few tips: try reset the bios. monitor temps when it shuts down. does the mosfets, vram etc have thermal pads on them?
A laptop is made to be carried, put in a bag, i would never put liquid metal on something moving because you can be sure something will go wrong quicly
Great stuff i have to try it 👍
But how you getting on with them solar panels i was going to buy it from you 😆
Im trying to set up independent ultimate mancave and would love your input on this solar solution 👌
When your gona use your Signature Thermalpad In the chipset ?
Hi Sorin, I have a toshiba satellite L845 laptop with amd apu A6 4400m cpu which heats up to 98 - 100 degrees in just about 5 minutes of turning it on, then it turns off, I already changed thermal paste, the cooler fan spins well, I see it in good heatsink Status, will the motherboard have any electronic problems? Maybe some smd thermal sensor? I hope you can guide me on what to check, I already have the schematic of the motherboard but I don't know where to check it, thanks!
Just need to apply a A+ category Paste you will see difference
Dont use liquid metal on copper laptop coolers...You need a nickel plated one. Its gonna go bad after a while. I used TG Conductonaut and had to reaply it 3 times to my elitebook in like half a year, it dried up and the cpu was overheating. The cooling was amazing at first but it started degrading over time. In the end i used arctic mx4 and it still fine a year later.
Thermal grizzly conductonauts is fine with pure copper. It will stained the copper heavily - compared to nickle - but not affecting thermal performance. Gamers nexus had tested it many years ago. I reapplied it every year or so, but yeah the copper looked ugly af, impossible to clean the stain!
I'm thinking of nickel plating the laptop cooler for this reason before I do liquid metal.
I have pure copper on my CPU water block
(With i7 6850K - so nothing new and nothing cold) :D
And still work after years without problems or visible degradation .....
Probably something is in thermal grizzly because I saw many threads how liquid metal is monolithic with cooler (or chip) and still people talk abou TG
The problem maybe is also the mounting pressure on laptop coolers coolers. I realy dont know what exactly caused the drying up... but it happened 3 times and the cpu went nuclear with full fan speed on load... after sanding the the dried up metal and reaplying a tiny amount of fresh it was whisper quiet and cool again for mybe 2 months... the laptop was a elitebook x360 1030 G4 with a i7-8565U case made fully out of aluminium (yes i know im crazy haha)
@@benywiratmaka8636 hey I'm thinking of applying that paste on my razer 15 2019 and I'm pretty sure it's pure copper heat sink. I'm concerned of the paste being absorbed into the copper over time. You are saying that it won't? My biggest concern is what happened to this guy where he had to re apply again and again.
I love the GS66.
I wish they would update it with recent hardwaree.
well i do miss cover all by laquer.-.- hot liquid metal can splash when game bounce the hot laptop.. or just trow it on bag in hurry i already solve some case on GPU too.. so never forget laquer all around IC itself.. it is conductive
Very impressive test dear Sorin. Unfortunately you may have forgotten to post the affiliate link to the Liquid Metal, who knows how many will be buying this Liquid Metal now!! haha 😃😃
You added the liquid metal without protecting the SMDs next to the die first with lacquer? Are you trying to cause a short? This is not the right way to do it 😬
I use liquidmetal on my delidded CPU and GPU
Happy with the risks never haven’t killed anything… started with a 780ti
İt can work in laptops but for PC overclock gain is now nearly nothing bc destop cpus running on the edge already it boost up to edge performance whenever needs ,manufacturers not left place to go.
You have to use a rwgular thermal paste first. You have to put a Windows sticker abve the processor, chipset, video chip the right way. It can be an illegal one. The processor, such as dual core can recognize the vista lines over the cover. After regular use, it will reduce the heat. Your legal eg win 7 code is recognized by a satellite, reading the code from the dvd cover once a year offline. After your computer is off the default blacklist, you can use the liquidmetal.
Asus ROG zephyrus dead from factory liquid metal, it was all over the CPu, under the plastic shim protector and on capacitors
You could literally test conductivity between the liquid metal blob and common ground
Factory applied too much of it
how much liquid metall stay ?? 5years or only 2 years?
Mine only lasted a few months unfortunately
how to undervolt ryzen 7 6800h, even after repaste with gelid gc extreme temps rise above 85 in gaming
85 is fine, up to 100 for a laptop
I like your videos, a lot of knowledge shared with us.
PS: your laptop is not a 'he' :)
I thought that you could not use liquid metal with copper? Or am i wrong now
If i got shorted motherboard can it be fixed? Help me with answer fast i destroyed my gaming pc bro
Same here
Acer Nitro 5 with i7 10750H + RTX 3060
With thermal paste was terrible performace (At least CPU was hot from anything)
With liquid metal I watch this video and fans not spinning ,before with thermal paste fans not spin maybe 15-20sec after turn on laptop :
So you compared old thermal paste with fresh liquid metal.
Its the way how to gain more costumers . Show them quality of liquid metal and hope, they will try it at home without experience 😀Just joking 🙂Nice video, thank U. I was surprised, how little of metal is enough.
Bravoooo 👏👏👏👏💪💪💪thx.
There was way too much thermal paste at 8:39
I've done liquid metal on a few desktop cpus and a gpu, better performance by far
Actually there is new technology thermopad with efficiency between thermal paste and liquid metal.
That u can buy?
great info :)
WHICH laptop model exactly you are testing on plz
Sorin Liquid metal in any case should not be used with copper. Both react chemically with each other and solid crystals are formed. These press into the silicon core and the CPU or GPU die. I have seen this several times myself with our customers.
Our conclusion: Liquid metal does not belong in a mobile device. Unless you do it like Asus. A silicone frame around the CPU silicon core and a coated cooler that does not react chemically with liquid metal.
That's not true. I've watched many videos on that. Copper is the best material with liquid metal. There is a reason why all the water cooling blocks are made with copper, and those manufacturers usually consider the liquid metal cooling too. It's specifically designed like that.
As stated: Manufacturers, that design their devices using liquid metal also nickelplate the copper since it is a known issue, that copper also gets corroded by liquid metal. (Sony and ASUS for example) @@adamvebaloisnotavailable
You gained +5% performance.
"Why my aluminium heatsink is so weak after i used liquid metal"
Thermal paste for ever, I have no idea why anyone would need liquid metal for standard use. I have seen too many that have stuffed their computer or video card just to save a few degrees. If you computer is over heating, it obviously something is wrong.
apparently you know more than the people who designed the PS5
My next pc I’m doing custom water cooling with contact frame Liquid Metal t30 fans might delid not if it’s too risky. I STG I was messing with 12600k bios settings BLCK ovc or something I press control shift esc to see cpu speed it said 6+ghz I STG it went to like 6.7 ghz down to 6.4 changing I immediately shut my pc off to turn off all the settings I have a 240mm aio and I thought I was gonna break my cpu
@@cesariushervelazco8ps5 is not general use. It’s a gaming beast
I prep the PCB with non-conductive electrical glue around the chip (when working on delidder CPU) or around the ihs on AMD or certain Intel boards and haven't had an issue. Prep work let's you get what is advertised for the components you purchase without risk.
You're ignorant if you only base your judgment from the temperature difference alone. 🤦♂️
You forgot to clear the results after each benchmarks... It's not clear the max and the minimum
Is Ray Liotta back from the grave but with an eastern European accent?
Only problem with Liquid Metal is that it's a Million times better at killing your Computer than Thermal Paste 🤦♂
You need more liquid metal then that man.
The cooling of the MAC laptops is simply a joke, I remember how many made fun of it at the time e.g. Rossmann. That's why I would never buy Apple products, either that is absolute incompetence or intentionally, there is no other explanation.
man you're a pro
Have you put on liquid metal on a copper Heatsink? It will eat it away
copper is ok
Staining it and eating it away are two completely different things. 🤦♂️
It is a bad idea to put Liquid Metal on copper. 😱
Finally listening to someone who knows how to say ALUMINIUM, and not some american telling ALUMINUM 😂
Dumb question and a bit more expensive, but they could just have a CPU and heatsink all in one. that way 100% heat transfer?? haha
Says "put just a little bit of liquid metal to GPU and CPU" and proceeds putting a LOT of liquid metal onto the heatsink side... :) Also you really want to isolate the components on the GPU and CPU dies using nail polish or something before applying liquid metal...
King 😀
wow that's a very expensive laptop.
What IS liquid metal? Gallium, a name brand?...
Thank you for sharing. Yesterday I received this from one of the videos how to spot faulty CPUs I think "Congratulations you have been selected among my lucky winner's dm to claim your prize now telegram only" no worries I did not respond, as I treated it as a sacm. Please warn others.
Are you Romanian?
Ow haha is there Galium in there? Yeah that will eat your aluminium.
The pretty golden metal is called copper. Cheers buddy
Meh... My temps are horrible with LM. Definitely changeing back to paste, this is ridiculous, it runs at like 75° in idle.
"10x better" yeah sure, but not in this reality. lol
liqiud metal is very bad
liquid metal is crap