Glad to help! Drop by my website baileylineroad.com for a visit sometime. You'll find lots of stuff there, including tool giveaways, articles and lots of other stuff of interest to hands-on, how-to people. Bye for now and thanks for watching! Steve
Been working on very hard white oak and going through bits like kindergarteners through Dunkin munchkins. Thank you so much for the video. Saved me a boat load of cash!
Good presentation Steve. One of the advantages of the spade bit is the simple design and typically softer metal that allows the bit to be sharpened with a file. Working construction as a plumber or electrician means you don't always have access to a grinder. A quick touch up with file and you're back in business.
Very helpful and saved me a trip to the store to buy a new one. Absolutely love youtube! You are being extra careful here. I spent about 5 minutes per side sharpening mine and it just blasts through floor joists now!!!!! Dont be shy guys, give that bit a sharpen!!!
Drop by my website baileylineroad.com for a visit sometime. You'll find lots of stuff there, including tool giveaways, articles and lots of other stuff of interest to hands-on, how-to people. Bye for now and thanks for watching! Steve
JPinMI Excellent! I'm glad to hear. Thanks for letting me know. A few seconds on the grinder and spade bits will cut like new. Drop by for a visit sometime at my online destinations: stevemaxwell.ca and realrurallife.com. You’ll find lots of new videos, articles and product giveaways, plus a chance to see what we’re up to on our island homestead. Bye for now, and thanks for watching! Steve
My old spade bit was burning it's way through, not cutting. I considered filing it but after watching this video, I mounted my angle grinder upside down in a vice (not the safest) and carefully ground at approx the angle described on this video. When I tried redrilling it went through like a hot knife through butter. Thankyou.
Omg this is crazy works a treat its the middle of the night and i need a inch spade bit but mine is totally worn within 30 seconds i jave a brand new one
Thanks for this demonstration, I'm not sure that I've ever seen a spade bit cut that cleanly. It is often noted that chisels are ground but not honed when coming off the shelf. Now I'm wondering if spade bits' mediocre reputation comes from a poor quality edge coming from the factory. Have you ever tried increasing the angle of the cutting edge relative to the point, to make up for the loss of the spurs? Bits that lack spurs have edges that recede toward the center. I think this could be easily duplicated and even increased. I think this is an answer to the issue of lost spurs, although one could always make their lives a little more difficult trying to retain them with the use of a thin sharpening wheel.
I use spade bits with handheld drills( not drill press). My questions are can i still grind off the spurs? Will the bit walk without the spurs? I have to drill straight when doing stair systems. Thanks.
Good Morning! You can safely grind off the side spurs and it will make no difference to the performance of a spade bit, even in a hand-held drill. You still need the central spur, of course, but the side spurs can go. It's surprising, but true. If the main cutters on the bit are sharp, then you'll get a nice, clean hole without spurs. I hope this helps. Please let me know. Bye, Steve
Are some woods just not suited for a spade bit? I've been trying to hollow out a small walnut log (to make a swedish torch), and it's been VERY slow going, even though I used a brand new spade bit (bought expressly for that purpose). If it helps, I'm using a handheld drill, not a drill press.
Hi There! I bought the tool rest from Lee Valley Tools. It's their own design and it works really well. Drop by my website baileylineroad.com for a visit sometime. You'll find lots of stuff there, including tool giveaways, articles and the chance to ask me questions directly. Bye for now and thanks for watching! Steve
Was just about to buy a new set. So the two points don't matter? What about the main point? I also want to reduce my 25mm to 23-24mm for door lock latch install as after installing it you can see the hole outside the latch plate even though 25mm is specified.
Hi There! You don't have to worry of preserving the points. Just grind them off as you sharpen. And yes, you can certainly reduce the overall diameter of your bit by grinding the sides. Take care and thanks for watching! Steve
Steve, a quick question. Would it be possible to grind a spade bit into a trapezoid shape, to drill tapered holes? I mean that the drill bit near the cutting spur would be, let's say, an inch wide, and would taper to an inch and a quarter near it's shank. I need some slightly tapered holes bored in wood, around 35 to 40mm deep, and the taper could be pretty minimal. I actually want holes less than half inch on the wider side. I know there are reamers for that, but in my country it's very, very hard to get a little more specialized tools, and if you can, they will cost you a fortune. I can't really buy a reamer that costs as much as a small bosch drill...
***** I live in central Europe, Poland to be precise.There are virtually no hobby type stores, and hardware stores are pretty poorly equipped. For example, it's impossible to buy a sharpening stone that won't crumble from looking at it (like the ones you get at dollar stores), old tools are priced like antiques (horrendous, and very common) and I've searched for a wood saw set for 2 years offline now, and online its cheaper to buy few from US even including the shipping. Very non-hobby-friendly country! Thanks for the heads up about cooling the steel, though I do blacksmithing, knife and toolmaking for a hobby, but a reminder is always good!
Rafał Sacha Amen to that! Where the heck do our carpenters get their tools from?! Given that there are probably 10 carpenters left who don't use power tools only.
Grinding the sides of the bit risks changing the intended diameter of the hole that is bored. A 3/4 inch spade bit will no longer be a 3/4 inch spade bit.
Good video but it's unnecessary to sharpen the he sides of a spade bit as they really do nothing in regards to cutting the hole. Also the best way I find to sharpen spade/paddle bits is with a dremel tool with fiberglass cut off wheels. Works great for detailed cutting of just about any bit actually. You just need a steady hand
Hey man. Really appreciate your video. And the bit you sacrificed to teach us.
Glad to help! Drop by my website baileylineroad.com for a visit sometime. You'll find lots of stuff there, including tool giveaways, articles and lots of other stuff of interest to hands-on, how-to people.
Bye for now and thanks for watching!
Steve
I was about to throw away yet another spade bit. This works like a champion, thanks!!!
"Sharp" video, thanks for sharing 🙌👍
VERY good presentation. Very professional, yet not at all "canned".
Been working on very hard white oak and going through bits like kindergarteners through Dunkin munchkins. Thank you so much for the video. Saved me a boat load of cash!
Try the dearer better spade bits
Terrific video. Clear concise explanation with good video. Thanks a million
omg.. i saw 12y old videos, and its still teach me somethings.. 🙏🙏🙏🙏
Good presentation Steve. One of the advantages of the spade bit is the simple design and typically softer metal that allows the bit to be sharpened with a file. Working construction as a plumber or electrician means you don't always have access to a grinder. A quick touch up with file and you're back in business.
Old Sneelock's Workshop I'm an electrician and I use a dremel with the reinforced fiberglass cutoff wheels. Works amazing! Try it
Your idea is the best using bench grinder thanks.
Very helpful and saved me a trip to the store to buy a new one. Absolutely love youtube! You are being extra careful here. I spent about 5 minutes per side sharpening mine and it just blasts through floor joists now!!!!! Dont be shy guys, give that bit a sharpen!!!
Drop by my website baileylineroad.com for a visit sometime. You'll find lots of stuff there, including tool giveaways, articles and lots of other stuff of interest to hands-on, how-to people.
Bye for now and thanks for watching!
Steve
well that save me 45 minutes to go to the hardware store! thank you so much for posting that
Also, have to say your presentation skills are excellent.
Thankyou great simple straightforward
Glad it was helpful!
Great video. Clear instructions. Well done sir!
Thanks, I found this video yesterday and just did my first one. Works good.
JPinMI Excellent! I'm glad to hear. Thanks for letting me know. A few seconds on the grinder and spade bits will cut like new.
Drop by for a visit sometime at my online destinations: stevemaxwell.ca and realrurallife.com. You’ll find lots of new videos, articles and product giveaways, plus a chance to see what we’re up to on our island homestead.
Bye for now, and thanks for watching!
Steve
Excellent video. Valuable information, and right to the point.
Thanks 👍 well done streat to the point just what I was looking for !!! Hope u have a great day!!
My old spade bit was burning it's way through, not cutting. I considered filing it but after watching this video, I mounted my angle grinder upside down in a vice (not the safest) and carefully ground at approx the angle described on this video. When I tried redrilling it went through like a hot knife through butter. Thankyou.
Omg this is crazy works a treat its the middle of the night and i need a inch spade bit but mine is totally worn within 30 seconds i jave a brand new one
Great explanation.
I knew my spade bit was wearing off I had no idea you could grind them.. thank you
Well done!!!
Thank You!! Saved me some bucks!!
VERY GOOG EXPLANATION. THANKS FOR SHARE
Thanks for this demonstration, I'm not sure that I've ever seen a spade bit cut that cleanly. It is often noted that chisels are ground but not honed when coming off the shelf. Now I'm wondering if spade bits' mediocre reputation comes from a poor quality edge coming from the factory.
Have you ever tried increasing the angle of the cutting edge relative to the point, to make up for the loss of the spurs? Bits that lack spurs have edges that recede toward the center. I think this could be easily duplicated and even increased. I think this is an answer to the issue of lost spurs, although one could always make their lives a little more difficult trying to retain them with the use of a thin sharpening wheel.
thank you..thumb up
New sub here. Great video sir!✌🏻️
yes i like
Great
Could go to a more narrow wheel there by maintaing the hook and put a stop bushing on shank so hits against rest maintaining equal lands
your grinder platform seems to be elevated. This is important and yet there was no discussion of this. Was the platform also custom? and angled?
Al limar los filos laterales que sobresalen cuando perforas la madera lado a lado la astillas, porque es la función de éstas.
I use spade bits with handheld drills( not drill press). My questions are can i still grind off the spurs? Will the bit walk without the spurs? I have to drill straight when doing stair systems. Thanks.
Good Morning!
You can safely grind off the side spurs and it will make no difference to the performance of a spade bit, even in a hand-held drill. You still need the central spur, of course, but the side spurs can go. It's surprising, but true. If the main cutters on the bit are sharp, then you'll get a nice, clean hole without spurs. I hope this helps. Please let me know.
Bye,
Steve
Good stuff. I just blued my 1" and all it does is smoke lol. Will try and save it with this demo. Thanks
Why does grinding the spurs off "in practice" not affect the performance of the bit? Why do manufacturers add them in the first place?
At which angel and from which portions the bit is sharpended
I'd like to know what wheel grit he uses.
Are some woods just not suited for a spade bit? I've been trying to hollow out a small walnut log (to make a swedish torch), and it's been VERY slow going, even though I used a brand new spade bit (bought expressly for that purpose). If it helps, I'm using a handheld drill, not a drill press.
Steve, my spade bits have a slight wobble to them from accidents. Anyway to get them nice and true again?
I like that tool rest...did it come with the grinder or is it home made?
Hi There!
I bought the tool rest from Lee Valley Tools. It's their own design and it works really well.
Drop by my website baileylineroad.com for a visit sometime. You'll find lots of stuff there, including tool giveaways, articles and the chance to ask me questions directly.
Bye for now and thanks for watching!
Steve
what about the points on the edges of some bits ?
please tell me about your bit holder.
Are you Related to Les Stroud?
Was just about to buy a new set. So the two points don't matter? What about the main point?
I also want to reduce my 25mm to 23-24mm for door lock latch install as after installing it you can see the hole outside the latch plate even though 25mm is specified.
Hi There!
You don't have to worry of preserving the points. Just grind them off as you sharpen. And yes, you can certainly reduce the overall diameter of your bit by grinding the sides.
Take care and thanks for watching!
Steve
Steve, a quick question. Would it be possible to grind a spade bit into a trapezoid shape, to drill tapered holes? I mean that the drill bit near the cutting spur would be, let's say, an inch wide, and would taper to an inch and a quarter near it's shank. I need some slightly tapered holes bored in wood, around 35 to 40mm deep, and the taper could be pretty minimal. I actually want holes less than half inch on the wider side. I know there are reamers for that, but in my country it's very, very hard to get a little more specialized tools, and if you can, they will cost you a fortune. I can't really buy a reamer that costs as much as a small bosch drill...
***** I live in central Europe, Poland to be precise.There are virtually no hobby type stores, and hardware stores are pretty poorly equipped. For example, it's impossible to buy a sharpening stone that won't crumble from looking at it (like the ones you get at dollar stores), old tools are priced like antiques (horrendous, and very common) and I've searched for a wood saw set for 2 years offline now, and online its cheaper to buy few from US even including the shipping. Very non-hobby-friendly country! Thanks for the heads up about cooling the steel, though I do blacksmithing, knife and toolmaking for a hobby, but a reminder is always good!
Rafał Sacha Amen to that! Where the heck do our carpenters get their tools from?! Given that there are probably 10 carpenters left who don't use power tools only.
Good job - thx - hope you didn't waste that nice piece of ash!
Grinding the sides of the bit risks changing the intended diameter of the hole that is bored.
A 3/4 inch spade bit will no longer be a 3/4 inch spade bit.
Good video but it's unnecessary to sharpen the he sides of a spade bit as they really do nothing in regards to cutting the hole. Also the best way I find to sharpen spade/paddle bits is with a dremel tool with fiberglass cut off wheels. Works great for detailed cutting of just about any bit actually. You just need a steady hand
And don't you think the diameter would decrease little by little?
Didn’t sharpen the centre triangular part???