I'm trying to replace the cv axle seal on the rear diff. The instructions say to remove the knuckle too. I got the upper control arm bolt out. The lower and rear control arm bolts are seized. I was able to get the lower bolt nut off. The rear control arm lock nut broke off but still has another nut on there. It's the bolt where the rear alignment is adjusted. With the upper control arm bolt out there is almost enough space to sneak the axle out of the wheel bearing.
Those suspension bolts always rust into the knuckle bushings. In some cases I've had to sacrifice the arm or other suspension parts that hold the bushings. The inside if the bushings have a steel sleeve that rusts to the bolts. Good luck.
@@PhillipBailey yeah you're right I forgot about that. I've aborted the mission to replace the seal. I'm going to monitor the fluid level and add stop leak and top it off at regular oil changes. The level of effort required to replace the seal is too high.
@@PhillipBailey waa able to remove the sensor. Pb blaster and a lot of pounding. What a mess! Bearing was in pieces, but I got it. Too broke and too stubborn to pay someone else to do any mechanical work for 100 an hour
@@BearBudgetgarage definitely not a good design. We're you able to get at the 4 bolts by bending that stupid tin shield or did you take the shield out?
Did they put those grooves in the bearing to give access from the front? I mean put the 4 bolts in from the front side. W those grooves you have access.
@@PhillipBailey wondering Philip, if machined a hole in the bearing plate so a socket head could pass through then you really could put on the bolts from the outside. I just don't know if that would be safe or would the bearing hub shatter for messing w it.
I'm not sure what you mean by separating the parking brake? I never disassembled the parking brake to do this job. The park brake shoes stay with the backing plate.
depends how bad the bearings are. Usually sounds like a hum or if worse a howl that increases with speed. May also be load sensitive and change pitch or intensity when switching lanes at highway speeds.
Would have been useful to show us how you got the rusted bearing out… ive had mine soaking in pb blaster and used heat and it still wont move while smashing it with a hammer, all I’m doing is destroying the backing plate now
At 4:30 I mentioned how I did it. Thread two of the retaining bolts halfway in and use an air chisel with a punch to push on the bolts from the back. Once the backing plate assembly is off the knuckle I just hit it from the back with a hammer to pop the bearing out of the backing plate. Sorry I didn't show the process. Need a camera man.
Your a real mechanic saving the customer money and still doing the job correctly thanks for sharing your knowledge
I'm trying to replace the cv axle seal on the rear diff. The instructions say to remove the knuckle too. I got the upper control arm bolt out. The lower and rear control arm bolts are seized. I was able to get the lower bolt nut off. The rear control arm lock nut broke off but still has another nut on there. It's the bolt where the rear alignment is adjusted. With the upper control arm bolt out there is almost enough space to sneak the axle out of the wheel bearing.
Those suspension bolts always rust into the knuckle bushings. In some cases I've had to sacrifice the arm or other suspension parts that hold the bushings. The inside if the bushings have a steel sleeve that rusts to the bolts. Good luck.
@@PhillipBailey yeah you're right I forgot about that. I've aborted the mission to replace the seal. I'm going to monitor the fluid level and add stop leak and top it off at regular oil changes. The level of effort required to replace the seal is too high.
How did you get the bearing out of the plate after it's all off. It seems pressed or rusted in on mine
So i have everything out, am I going to have to pound the wheel bearing away from the backing plate with the emergency brakes?
If you're in a rust belt area the bearing will be rusted into the housing. Be careful not to damage the wheel speed sensor.
@@PhillipBailey waa able to remove the sensor. Pb blaster and a lot of pounding. What a mess! Bearing was in pieces, but I got it.
Too broke and too stubborn to pay someone else to do any mechanical work for 100 an hour
@@BearBudgetgarage definitely not a good design. We're you able to get at the 4 bolts by bending that stupid tin shield or did you take the shield out?
Did they put those grooves in the bearing to give access from the front? I mean put the 4 bolts in from the front side. W those grooves you have access.
Nope sorry the threads are in the hub bearing. Can only be bolted in from the back side.
@@PhillipBailey wondering Philip, if machined a hole in the bearing plate so a socket head could pass through then you really could put on the bolts from the outside. I just don't know if that would be safe or would the bearing hub shatter for messing w it.
@@auggiebendoggy but you would still need nuts on the end of the bolts. I would not recommend trying.
@@PhillipBailey why they're threaded on the housing.
I wanted to see how you seperated the parking brake, I've been trying, I think its welded together
I'm not sure what you mean by separating the parking brake? I never disassembled the parking brake to do this job. The park brake shoes stay with the backing plate.
@Dmytriy Evgenevich the rear is only serviced as an assembly
@@PhillipBailey I'm sure he means the backing plate
What noise can it make
depends how bad the bearings are. Usually sounds like a hum or if worse a howl that increases with speed. May also be load sensitive and change pitch or intensity when switching lanes at highway speeds.
Would have been useful to show us how you got the rusted bearing out… ive had mine soaking in pb blaster and used heat and it still wont move while smashing it with a hammer, all I’m doing is destroying the backing plate now
At 4:30 I mentioned how I did it. Thread two of the retaining bolts halfway in and use an air chisel with a punch to push on the bolts from the back. Once the backing plate assembly is off the knuckle I just hit it from the back with a hammer to pop the bearing out of the backing plate. Sorry I didn't show the process. Need a camera man.
I did that, it didnt separate the bearing from the backing plate, it just loosened off the backing plate from the knuckle