Thanks so much everyone for all the support and advice in the comments, that’s gold dust for me whilst I’m trying to learn! Together we’ll get this car running sweet again. And for sure, you’re all right - I’ll get the crank sent off to be checked over (which will delay the next Aston video a bit I think!)
That crank and heads are dead, highly likely contamination or metal has gone round, I wouldn't risk using same gear unless you can clean thoroughly and check tolerances
@@220siPlan is to get it thoroughly cleaned and repaired by crankshaft specialists if I opt to use it again. There’s a company who have said they could do this for me!
Hi Alex. Just a quick one. Its better to use Hex( six side) sockets as opposed to "multi point" spanners and sockets on stubborn nuts and bolts eg your heat shield. They have a better fit on the sides and points on the nuts/ bolts with "less" chance of rounding off.
I came here to say the same thing, hehe. Also, try applying heat before chopping off the bolt heads. They may come loose, and it'll save you having to drill out the stud remnants if they do.
Those timing marks only lign up once so many revolutions. Once timed up for the first time and once the engine is turned over just one time they dont line up again. Then you look at the The marks on the pulleys not the chian coloured marks. The chain coloured marks are used to time the engine for the first time or after disassembly.
A few things You were lucky to did not snap the cam shafts the way you undid them and secondly the head bolts cannot be resused so no point putting them in order back in the heads. You need to have the crank checked as its proberbly bent !!
That’s interesting and I’m keen to learn - how should I have taken the camshafts off? I just followed the workshop manual and it didn’t seem all that specific. Agreed about the crank, it’ll go off to be checked!
You start at the ends a couple of turns each end and work towards the middle and once in the middle start again . Doesn't have to be exact with the turns but so the pressure is rleased evenly as I have seen it done the way you did it and bang the camshaft snaps in two!! When you undid the heads you should have done the same or you can warp the heads . Good luck PS you do the reverse when refitting IE start in the middle and work your way out wards to the end same with the heads @@itsalexbaldwin
And btw, this is just 2 ford duratec engines stacked long-ways to make a v12. So, a lot of the parts and procedures are exactly the same. That little sensor is probably found on a ford Mondeo for a lot less money than from Aston.
Had a quick scan through the comments to see if its been mentioned already. The sensor with the doctored wires you showed at the beginning looks like a standard oil pressure sensor so it's possible you are correct in your insurance scam assumpion. For eg. The owner had a car that developed low oil pressure so doctored the oil pressure sensor wiring to mask the issue and then sold the car as good. The new owner had no clue to the oil issue and blew the engine. And then somehow the car found itself in a flood and writen off. Good luck with the build.
Definitely not a timing issue that caused this damage, this is a simple case of the con rod letting go. For a start if one piston gets a valve strike hard enough to cause that sort of damage the valves above it would be all bust up. Plus the chain was nice and tight so couldn't have jumped one tooth let alone gone round that far on both sprockets. If it had there would be valve strikes on some of the other pistons.
Sorry to see the block but not really surprised. I think to check the timing you would need to get one of the cylinders (presumably cylinder 1) to compression TDC and the timing marks should line up. That’ll be difficult to check now it’s all apart. As someone else has said, you’d have signs of valve strike or even bent valves if the timing was that far out. One word of caution on the crank, with that level of damage, you’ll need to make sure it is still straight. The journals do look remarkable considering the other damage. Looking forward to hearing about your planned solution. 2 ST220 V6s and a MIG a welder?😉. Good luck with it.
Yeah it’s so rare the power of the engines don’t thrust the broken piston fragments into the block - in truth if I had to pick a bad crank or block, I’d probably say block! The crank will definitely go off to be checked, a few of you have mentioned it and I appreciate the heads up. I was thinking of just chucking a 2.0L diesel in there, what do you reckon? 🤪
Definitely check that crank when it has been removed fully. Hopefully you won’t find any scoring marks or scratches. Unlucky that con rod wedged in the block. I am pretty sure there is a place where you could take your old crank and get checked an re balanced just so you no it’s definitely 100%. Let’s hope it didn’t buckle/bend when it got trapped. Liking the video by the way.
The plug on the power steering rack is for the pressure transducer. It sends a signal to the ecu to increase the engine RPM when the steering is under load.
Block may be damaged but not necessarily scrap, couldn't see enough in video, get someone who is an expert to check, crank looks toasted but again get it checked, you'll be surprised what can be salvaged. Looks like rod/piston failure, the 6 litre V12 are based on the ford mondeo 3.0 V6 engines, basically 2 put together, not sure about parts compatibility, there are people out there that specialise in astons who will know though.
And cylinder heads and sumps. Not forgetting about filling the crankcase with abrasive dust and then rotating the crank that you hope to save. Knowing AM's reputation for arcane construction, there's no way I would have attempted this without a works manual.
I’ve seen others take it off entirely but the bolts were very rusted on the exhaust heatshield, even above the torque tube! Sounds like a common issue with these DB9s having spoken to a few others about it 🤢
Haha don’t tempt me, John 😂 agreed, I was just at an Aston specialist and he was telling me these DB9 pistons go through a litre of oil every 1,000 miles which is why they suffer so badly from oil starvation - as most customers don’t know this!
I always see these astons go through Copart and sometimes want to take a risk. I’ve always wondered how difficult the engines are to work on and how much space would be required! A lot more space than I have 😂. Where are you based?
Haha tbh it’s the 3rd Aston I’ve dealt with and I find them a bit frustrating in all honesty! The Ferrari, despite the annoying electrical challenges there were to overcome, was so much nicer to work on! The unit is in Surrey
Was it oil starvation for that back cylinder? Bamford Rose has mentioned that can be common. It's also been noted that for certain years, that the dipstick was too long, leading to an incorrect reading...
Yeah I think so! Suspect the oil level wasn’t checked regularly enough by the previous owner. I do remember hearing about the dipstick! This DB9 has got the correct one though so I think it just wasn’t checked regularly enough…
You’re probably not wrong but at what cost, and I’ll always be conscious of it when driving it repaired (or if I sell it on!) I think I may have sourced a good block for less than repairing one 🤞🏼
Haha sorry my man, cannot please everyone so try to go for ‘neutral’ music. Think it accidentally came out a bit louder than usual on this one, my apologies!
I'd think twice about using the crankshaft again its probably bent or has microscopic fractures just look for another complete or short engine or you could well end up wasting a lot of time and money believe me i learn't the hard way more than a few times in the past..It all boils down to "do you feel lucky taking the gamble" 👍
Need to check crank very carefully could be bent i think personally maybe worth trying to get a short engine may work out better and sell what bits u can to offset the cost
A fair idea and it has crossed my mind - I really want to experience a V12 though and it’s why I got the car so I do want to rebuild the current engine. Crank will go off to be checked over!
aston do not make engins so the block will have the make or number on it then run it on internet it will tell you what engin it is it will not cost as much
Man, you are doing so much wrong. Never undo the camshafts like you did, you will snap one. I wouldn't even use them again now that you have done that You need to undo them all starting from the middle out and gradually
Thanks so much everyone for all the support and advice in the comments, that’s gold dust for me whilst I’m trying to learn! Together we’ll get this car running sweet again.
And for sure, you’re all right - I’ll get the crank sent off to be checked over (which will delay the next Aston video a bit I think!)
That crank and heads are dead, highly likely contamination or metal has gone round, I wouldn't risk using same gear unless you can clean thoroughly and check tolerances
@@220siPlan is to get it thoroughly cleaned and repaired by crankshaft specialists if I opt to use it again. There’s a company who have said they could do this for me!
Hi Alex. Just a quick one. Its better to use Hex( six side) sockets as opposed to "multi point" spanners and sockets on stubborn nuts and bolts eg your heat shield. They have a better fit on the sides and points on the nuts/ bolts with "less" chance of rounding off.
Cheers Ian, think you’re right. Also some imperial spanners too as someone else has mentioned!
I came here to say the same thing, hehe.
Also, try applying heat before chopping off the bolt heads. They may come loose, and it'll save you having to drill out the stud remnants if they do.
Those timing marks only lign up once so many revolutions.
Once timed up for the first time and once the engine is turned over just one time they dont line up again.
Then you look at the The marks on the pulleys not the chian coloured marks.
The chain coloured marks are used to time the engine for the first time or after disassembly.
A few things You were lucky to did not snap the cam shafts the way you undid them and secondly the head bolts cannot be resused so no point putting them in order back in the heads. You need to have the crank checked as its proberbly bent !!
That’s interesting and I’m keen to learn - how should I have taken the camshafts off? I just followed the workshop manual and it didn’t seem all that specific. Agreed about the crank, it’ll go off to be checked!
You start at the ends a couple of turns each end and work towards the middle and once in the middle start again . Doesn't have to be exact with the turns but so the pressure is rleased evenly as I have seen it done the way you did it and bang the camshaft snaps in two!! When you undid the heads you should have done the same or you can warp the heads . Good luck PS you do the reverse when refitting IE start in the middle and work your way out wards to the end same with the heads @@itsalexbaldwin
There is most definitely an assembly torque sequence procedure in the manual. The removal procedure is exactly the opposite of the assembly procedure.
And btw, this is just 2 ford duratec engines stacked long-ways to make a v12. So, a lot of the parts and procedures are exactly the same. That little sensor is probably found on a ford Mondeo for a lot less money than from Aston.
Cheers guys, appreciate the advice!
When you remove a head, consider using the reverse bolt sequence as when torquing it down during install. To prevent warping it.
A lot of engines now have 'stretch' head bolts & cannot be reused so you need to check that out
Thanks for the comment, I’ve checked and you’re spot on - the head bolts do in fact need swapping out. Cheers for the heads up!
Had a quick scan through the comments to see if its been mentioned already. The sensor with the doctored wires you showed at the beginning looks like a standard oil pressure sensor so it's possible you are correct in your insurance scam assumpion. For eg. The owner had a car that developed low oil pressure so doctored the oil pressure sensor wiring to mask the issue and then sold the car as good. The new owner had no clue to the oil issue and blew the engine. And then somehow the car found itself in a flood and writen off. Good luck with the build.
Those timing marks, much like the OEM lines on a belt, will only line up once in a blue moon after the initial timing has been set.
Well said! I worked it out for my 350z motor and it was thousands of rotations before they'd all line up again.
Get the crank checked, it might be bent.
Cam timing looked OK, the chain marks only aline every few hundred revolutions
Cheers mate, noted on the timing chain and for sure, the crank will go off to be checked over!
Don't think it was out of time you would need to rotate it 4 times and marks should line up.
Definitely not a timing issue that caused this damage, this is a simple case of the con rod letting go. For a start if one piston gets a valve strike hard enough to cause that sort of damage the valves above it would be all bust up. Plus the chain was nice and tight so couldn't have jumped one tooth let alone gone round that far on both sprockets. If it had there would be valve strikes on some of the other pistons.
Completely agree with everything you’ve said here, appreciate the comment! It’s all a learning curve for me 😂
Sorry to see the block but not really surprised. I think to check the timing you would need to get one of the cylinders (presumably cylinder 1) to compression TDC and the timing marks should line up. That’ll be difficult to check now it’s all apart. As someone else has said, you’d have signs of valve strike or even bent valves if the timing was that far out. One word of caution on the crank, with that level of damage, you’ll need to make sure it is still straight. The journals do look remarkable considering the other damage. Looking forward to hearing about your planned solution. 2 ST220 V6s and a MIG a welder?😉. Good luck with it.
Yeah it’s so rare the power of the engines don’t thrust the broken piston fragments into the block - in truth if I had to pick a bad crank or block, I’d probably say block!
The crank will definitely go off to be checked, a few of you have mentioned it and I appreciate the heads up.
I was thinking of just chucking a 2.0L diesel in there, what do you reckon? 🤪
Definitely check that crank when it has been removed fully. Hopefully you won’t find any scoring marks or scratches. Unlucky that con rod wedged in the block. I am pretty sure there is a place where you could take your old crank and get checked an re balanced just so you no it’s definitely 100%. Let’s hope it didn’t buckle/bend when it got trapped. Liking the video by the way.
Just had a look online and there seems to be a company down in Hampshire who could check it’s okay for me! (I’m in Surrey so not too far)
@@itsalexbaldwin
Sound, better to get it checked out. You don’t want to be stripping the engine fully down again. Hope it comes back all ok.
The plug on the power steering rack is for the pressure transducer. It sends a signal to the ecu to increase the engine RPM when the steering is under load.
Cheers Phil, great eye!
Might wanna buy yourself some imperial spanner’s mate
😂 agreed, good idea!
Block may be damaged but not necessarily scrap, couldn't see enough in video, get someone who is an expert to check, crank looks toasted but again get it checked, you'll be surprised what can be salvaged. Looks like rod/piston failure, the 6 litre V12 are based on the ford mondeo 3.0 V6 engines, basically 2 put together, not sure about parts compatibility, there are people out there that specialise in astons who will know though.
You’re correct - the pistons/con rods have Ford markings and part numbers on them so I’ll be looking to order from them!
The timing marks are only synchronised on assembly as the cams turn 1/2 speed to crank the marks move out of sync soon as you turn it over
Thanks Adrian, appreciate the input! You’re absolutely right
Based on the disassembly procedure, I'm assuming Aston Martin has made the exhaust heat shield free.
And cylinder heads and sumps. Not forgetting about filling the crankcase with abrasive dust and then rotating the crank that you hope to save. Knowing AM's reputation for arcane construction, there's no way I would have attempted this without a works manual.
I’ve seen others take it off entirely but the bolts were very rusted on the exhaust heatshield, even above the torque tube! Sounds like a common issue with these DB9s having spoken to a few others about it 🤢
Aston really don,t want you playing with there toy? How many hours have you spent? be really interested in the final result and cost and hours !!!
I'd put some tape around those tubs. Those lids come off very easy
Thanks man, they seem to be decent quality - so far… 😂😂
Bit of JB Weld and gaffer tape and job would be a good un 🙂. Great shame to see a 'proper' engine so badly damaged.
Haha don’t tempt me, John 😂 agreed, I was just at an Aston specialist and he was telling me these DB9 pistons go through a litre of oil every 1,000 miles which is why they suffer so badly from oil starvation - as most customers don’t know this!
I looked pretty clean inside.
I always see these astons go through Copart and sometimes want to take a risk. I’ve always wondered how difficult the engines are to work on and how much space would be required! A lot more space than I have 😂. Where are you based?
Haha tbh it’s the 3rd Aston I’ve dealt with and I find them a bit frustrating in all honesty! The Ferrari, despite the annoying electrical challenges there were to overcome, was so much nicer to work on! The unit is in Surrey
Crank main journal MAY be ok but I bet rod journey “arm” is bent. Or was forced sideways when rod jammed between it and block.
You may very well be right, but I’ll send it off to some experts to check it over!
Was it oil starvation for that back cylinder? Bamford Rose has mentioned that can be common. It's also been noted that for certain years, that the dipstick was too long, leading to an incorrect reading...
Yeah I think so! Suspect the oil level wasn’t checked regularly enough by the previous owner. I do remember hearing about the dipstick! This DB9 has got the correct one though so I think it just wasn’t checked regularly enough…
You need to get that crank checked by experts do not install without that 👍🇦🇺
Agreed!
I think that block can be repaired
You’re probably not wrong but at what cost, and I’ll always be conscious of it when driving it repaired (or if I sell it on!) I think I may have sourced a good block for less than repairing one 🤞🏼
Dude, just hammer a 7mm socket onto the stripped heads on the sheilds
Oh wow Alex I was not expecting that, looks like a hand grenade went off in there 😮
I’m still finding fragments in the block even now 😂
That coverall is groovy 😍😍 but the engine blimey it’s like some used a sawn off shotgun on it.
Its only two ford v6 joined together not a true Aston motor
Nice project and watching you strip the engine, but what's with the annoying background music
Haha sorry my man, cannot please everyone so try to go for ‘neutral’ music. Think it accidentally came out a bit louder than usual on this one, my apologies!
I'd think twice about using the crankshaft again its probably bent or has microscopic fractures just look for another complete or short engine or you could well end up wasting a lot of time and money believe me i learn't the hard way more than a few times in the past..It all boils down to "do you feel lucky taking the gamble" 👍
I dunno but I would remount like stand not on the flywheel in case you bend it!!
Bit late now though...
I didn’t tighten the bolts up against it too tight, there’s no real pressure actually on the flywheel unless I try to turn the engine!
Not to worry not to bothered about the music, such a shame about the engine block.
Need to check crank very carefully could be bent i think personally maybe worth trying to get a short engine may work out better and sell what bits u can to offset the cost
A fair idea and it has crossed my mind - I really want to experience a V12 though and it’s why I got the car so I do want to rebuild the current engine. Crank will go off to be checked over!
Con rod will bend..but crank will not .I've rebuilt many engines that went in water running and crank was ok.
@@kurtjammer9568 they can bend if it's done a end seen it happen just luck of the draw
aston do not make engins so the block will have the make or number on it then run it on internet it will tell you what engin it is it will not cost as much
The block was actually reengineered by Aston to house the V12, that is essentially 2 x Ford V6s if I’m not mistaken!
Your friend is a legend!👍👍 will it be a chevy LS swap….thats what they would do in the colonies!
Haha surely an unforgivable sin for a Brit to do this! 😂
Hey Alex. I said the crank might be ok didn’t I. Great video and great work by yourself on the engine itself. Take care till next tune 👃👃
You were spot on! Cheers Rog
Glad to help mate. You’re doing great mate. What’s your angle now?
@@Magnet.M.A.DI think check the crank is okay with some experts, then source a new block and all other parts required!
the chain only aligns when you put it on - after the engine has turned over they will no longer line up.
Gotcha, thanks for the advice!
That must be a Volkswagen block, because it's Fukenbroken....
Think I’d be looking for a second hand motor…
That's fair enough, it's just a very costly route!
@@itsalexbaldwin there must be a rear ended car or flood car or similar!
Is that a Benz v12
2 x Ford 3.0L V6s
R u related to the Baldwin actors
?
Noooo, that man is the bane of my life 😂
LS Chev swap I think
😂 haha I wouldn’t dream of it, Howard! Save the V12s 🤪
Man, you are doing so much wrong. Never undo the camshafts like you did, you will snap one. I wouldn't even use them again now that you have done that
You need to undo them all starting from the middle out and gradually
Appreciate the advice, Darren. Noted for future reference and thanks for explaining the proper way to do it 💪🏼
@@itsalexbaldwin no problem mate. Sorry I reread my comment and it sounds a bit rude. Wasn't my intention. Just don't want you snapping a cam.
All good mate! You and I alike, thankfully think they’re okay on this occasion but I now know for next time!
Could have sub to this channel but the music backing and way over the top. Sorry Alex but I'm out of here