I BOUGHT ANOTHER BROKEN ASTON MARTIN DB9 ENGINE
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- Опубліковано 10 гру 2024
- In this episode, I strip down my 2nd DB9 engine and start trying to prepare the parts for reassembly.
Hope you enjoy and if you celebrate it - Merry Christmas!
For any enquiries, you can reach me on my Instagram. My handle is: itsalexbaldwin
As everyone else has commented, it definitely needs new bearings, both main and rod big end, and probably new piston rings too. It also needs the crank journals polished and then measured to get the bearing sizes correct. If you've watched RE's videos then you know how important cleanliness and accurate measurements are for any engine build. Good luck!
Good advice. Sending the block and heads to a machine shop for a light resurfacing would be a good investment to ensure proper head gasket sealing. While there they can also polish the crank and do a light hone on the cylinder bores. That done they can specify the correct bearing sizes for you and potentially do a line bore of the mains. The rod s will likely need to have their big ends resized. and I would suggest a careful inspection of reused parts for any indication of cracks or overhearing (bluing). Engines that have failed generally don't limit the damage to a single area. Cleaning the outside of the block is primarily cosmetic ... the real concern will be in the internal oil passages where debris from those damaged bearings is likely present. DIY rebuilds are fine - but don't scrimp on professional machining when building the rotating assembly. That will be money in the bank.
MAKE SURE TO CLEAR THE OIL GALLERIES.Those big ends went for a reason
Take whole engine to a machine shop for them to advise on what's salvageable, be prepared for a shock
Don’t ever consider reusing any bearing shells. Find the colour codes for each position and plastigauge the new ones when you fit them. P.S. get both cranks checked and/or rebound if necessary. They may both be scrap.
I think you meant re-ground didn't you? And certainly those bearings are all scrap.
You need to bring the bottom end crank Conrad's abd pistons to a machine shop
You best get new piston rings all Bearings new and block linebored and honed
Also let the heads oil galleries properly cleaned and check the seats get new valve seals valves lapped etc
You beat me to it. This has “knocking bottom end within minutes of running” written all over it.
I would strongly advise you don't use the crank or conrods from the replacement engine.
The journals will most likely be slightly oval and the conrods will be heat damaged and/or oval
I did exactly what you are doing in my workshop & kitchen, all by hand, best I could do, just remember it is better than when took apart … My engine cranked & started first time. Never missed a beat & lasted years.
Honed the bores by hand with a hone tool on a drill.
Good luck & keep up the hard work
Was your engine a 6 liter V12 producing 450 bhp? This needs doing properly or the result will be junk. There’s a reason why these cars are not valuable when they get to this age and it’s because you still need deep pockets to run and repair them. This project can be great but cutting corners isn’t going to be the answer I’m afraid.
Personally i would not use any of the rods from the 2nd engine. As for the crank, i would have it checked & probably ground if there is enough meat left on it. New mains & big end bearings a must. Always good to have a new oil pump. Check the flatness of the head & block faces also.
Interesting project Alex. You seem like a really nice genuine guy, and I would not want to spoil your enthusiasm, but there are vast amounts of precise measurements to be taken before you can even think about the best course of action to take. From what can bee seen in this video, I would suggest all the rods and the crank on the replacement engine are suspect. I think if you want to come out of this with an engine that is going to be reliable, and more to the point saleable, it will end up being the full Monty, crank reground, oversize main and big end shells, rods through bored, block re-bored and honed, new pistons and rings, heads skimmed, block refaced, possibly valve guides and seats. As you have said, all of the £13K you don't have to put into the project. I really feel for you at this stage.
Thank you everyone for all your advice, it’s very much needed and appreciated! Constructive criticism is the way I’ll get better and better - the engine will go to be professionally cleaned and prepped, and the crank checked.
Merry Christmas all, and thanks for watching 🎅
It’s great that you are taking all of the advice in the right way. I’m sure I speak for all the commenters when I say that you are being very brave taking on this project and we all want to see you succeed. It’s a V12 Aston Martin and it will reward you for doing the job properly. Keep us posted with progress.
Hi Alex, you must measure the crank you are going to use for roundness. It would also be wise to measure the mains.
Not all shells are the same, some are coded.red blue etc.
So if both cranks are standard size and the crank is good, I would fit a new set of shells both mains and rods.
You have spent a lot of money to have a failiour for such a relatively small price.
I also suggest the new oil pump you were thinking of.
Good luck
Happy Christmas
Have cylinders checked for ovalaty, these are renowned for ticking due to piston slap.
Definitely don't use any old bearings. Clean the oil galleries. Get everything measured and checked.
Definitely use new rings and have the block honed.
All that is the absolute minimum.
Replace all the bearings and piston rings , I think Reperformance uses a hot cleaning bath overnight , I strongly advise you put the block and heads in this as well, after it’s being skimmed . Looking forward to the rest of these vids
To loose all big end bearings, is potentially an oil pump issue and may have also affected the main bearings also. I would remove the crank and take it to a machine shop to get measured. You may need to oversize the new shells ( yes you need to fit new shells on the bottom end and not reuse old ones) . Do not use any of the rods that had bad bearings. They can knock out of round and either get them measured or use ones that have good shells. Get the block chemically cleaned at the machine shop. The oilways may well have metal from the shells in them and get the oilways flushed. Its a lot of work but if you dont it could be a very short lived rebuild. You have watched Ricky at RE do his work and cleanliness , so take his example of what you need to do.
Watching with interest, I’ve a 2011 Virage with a dead engine, (since May 2023), and no replacement engines available from AM. I’m in OZ so even worse as no local support, considering pulling engine out and shipping to UK, seems I have a bottom end issue, engine runs but rattles badly, two experts say dead engine and must be replaced. Good luck!
Get a professional engine builder/machine shop to build you a short complete bottom end from the 2 its worth paying the little extra for peace of mind 1 small overlooked miss match and you could end up with a pile of junk and back to square 1
get youreself a can of chem dip, those pistons/rods will come up as new. especially anything thats been "varnished"
spray everything with wd after youve washed it in water it as that'll stop any flash rusting , wipe down with acitone and a lint free coth just before you assemble.
being clean is key!
I also use this for my motors..rod ,pistons,bolts.... anything dipped in it looks great.
Get yourself a set of micrometres. Check all crank journals are within spec. and polished/reground if necessary. A regrind will need oversized bearings. Torque up conrods check with micrometre make sure they are not oval and new standard shells will fit. If they are oval they can be resized by honing to the next bearing oversize if available. Check bore size and piston clearance is with in spec. fit new rings. Check oil pump for wear and debris. Big end bearing condition would suggest oil starvation. Remove oil way bungs and clean out. Block and head faces should be skimmed to ensure flatness and piston block height checked is within spec. Best of Luck
Have the crank checked, polished and balanced then used new bearings… it is the only correct way to do it… the machine shop can also check the rods to ensure they are not “oval” like you mentioned… do it properly otherwise no one in their right mind would buy the car after..
it needs the crank and conrods reground and reshelled and theh bain bearings reground and reshelled. if you use the crank fron engine 1 have it checked for true, it came to a sudden stop with the remains of a conrod pusing it with great force so could be bent
Get the crank checked and ground or polished fit new mains and bigends use plaster gauge to measure the gaps and running clearances, they can also check the rods for you, fit new rings and gap them before fitting, the heads and block will need to be checked for straightness should be ok if you have not had overheating problems, check valves easy check fill ports with thin oil etc to see if you have any leaks make sure everything is clean afterwards engine reconditoners can hot clean it all for you, don't cut corners at this stage
Yep the crank form the replacement engine will need a regrind that damage wont polish out its too bad. Also the rods from that engine arent any good the big ends will all be distorted. You will need to get them resized but the one from the spun bearing is scrap. I would pick best rods from old engine and get them checked for size from the place that will do the crank for you. I would also advise need to hone the block, if you dont know what your doing you'll scrap it in seconds. Use a deglazing ball hone/ brush but not a full hone and dont overdo it
Hi Alex, harsh I know, but best to imagine the missing metal from the obviously damaged bearings turning the engine oil into a nasty grinding paste - travelling & then quickly wearing out all of the other bearings/ oil pump etc with bigger shavings possibly sticking in oil passages. Renew, renew & flush & flush again would be my advice, as would appear to the advice from comments so far. 😉 On the positive side - you will end up with a genuinely fully refurbished engine of course. Keep up the great content 🙂
Are you sure the “new” engine hasn’t been apart before? Those bearings should be a very snug fit to both the crank and the connecting rods. With the best will in the world, a bit of cleaning is nowhere near clean enough for an engine build. You need to be putting the block and all the parts in a parts washer (basically a dishwasher for engine bits). You will never get it clean enough with brake cleaner and a cloth. Everything then needs to be measured. Engines run to tolerances of thousandths of an inch and everything needs to be within spec. That means micrometer measurements of the bores, journals etc. The flatness of the head and block mating faces is also crucial. Much as I admire your spirit to have a go, if you want the rebuilt engine to run for more than a few minutes before it destroys itself, you’re going to need to engage the services of a good engineering workshop to clean and measure everything before you put anything back together. And you can’t reuse bearing shells if you want to do anything other than bodge it before moving the car on to the next unsuspecting owner. Sorry to be the voice of doom but this edition of the series has me worried that you are about to waste your money with little positive result for your efforts. Sorry and good luck.
Aston engines aren't run of the mill that can be dodged.
Cleaning wise try paraffin, Gunk is paraffin based. Leave the pistons stood upside down overnight then marvel at the results after a rinse and brush in the morning bud. For the heads and block nothing beats a Stanley blade. Never reuse the bearings, Aston will have factory tolerances that all of the engine parts need to be within. Measuring everything is the only way you will know things like the big ends and mains housings haven’t ovaled out as plastigauge won’t show this up. Although things may look okay, heat damages parts in strange ways, the crank is very possibly bent.Also, it’s very unusual for so many bearings to have gone, that suggests a possible issue with oil so all oilways need checking,A reputable machine shop would do all of this as a matter of course so use their expertise as it’ll make your life a lot, and I mean a lot easier.
Some serious oil starvation has occurred in the second engine. You need to do a lot of measuring of the con rod big ends and the crankshaft. If you do end up with a good engine that runs reliably you will be very lucky. Thank you for sharing your experience.
As everyone else has said, it needs a crank regrind, new bearings, the con rods probably need machining oversized because they will be oval. This is quite often caused by a miss fire causing the catalytic converter to fail and because of valve overlap the bits get sucked back into the engine. It needs a lot of machining . This is a performance engine if you just cobble it together it's not going to last 5 minutes.
Nice job well since you got the block down to bear my suggestion is the Machine Shop I have them go through and check all the boards took all the planes check the decking and the oil ways. A good machine shop will stick that sucker into a tank and it'll come out clean as a whistle and don't reuse any of the old bearings I would not even think of it new bearings. And most important thing is when you're putting the new bearings in you want to get that sticky bearing Grease to Prelude everything.
If Berryman's Chem-dip is available in the UK, get some! That stuff is awesome at getting the carbon gunk off of pistons, etc.
Alex, get the “Right Tool” for the job - e.g. Pulley Removal Tool. Every time, get the Right Tool for the job & do it easy and faster.
Enjoying your videos Alex, thanks.
@@cal6747 thanks Cal!
Check the cylinder bores for roundness. BR has a video about ticking and it is piston slap from out of round bores.
Hey mate - ended up returning this engine! Needed a complete rebuild (all cylinders reboring etc)
Great channel love what your doing Reminds me of me 30 years ago with old brit sports cars but that engine rebuild has self-destruction written all over it You need to get everything checked at a machine shop. I so hope i am wrong. go M359 restorations and this guy gives masterclasses in rebuilding modern hi Tec engines
You might consider upgrading the rods to the later ones with oil pressure to the small end bearings.
Get that crank ground and a set of shells in it ya lunatic 😂😂
Therea plenty ambition on show here I can't miss this 😂
I wish you all the luck!
All those bearings are scrap full stop. The crank main and big end journals need to be measured meticulously and if oversized bearings are available the crank needs to be reground. There's no 'sanding' to clean those crank pins they need to be reground if you want the engine to work and last. Those 'tabs' on the bearing shells are NOT repeat not to stop the bearings shell from spinning. They are there to locate the shell Laterally in the con rod. Mainly to ensure the oil hole lines up with the oil delivery hole in the crankpin, so as to ensure full lubrication. The same reason the tabs are there on the main bearing journals. Look up RE Performance here on UA-cam and you will get a good idea of how a performance engine is constructed and how an engine should be built.
Mate you have to grind crank and new bearings you will have to deck the block and surface heads , the oil pump will have metal from oil in it so both of them are throw away. The motor you ae dealing with is a very precise instrument so tolerances need to be exact or it will destroy itself again. I have spent the last 40 years doing these thing and have seen it all if your gunna do it do it right.
Take to machine shop measure all the parts and reuse in the block fit a new oil pump and bearings gaskets etc etc definitely have a word with Lee at barum engines would have the rods balanced if your making a set up from both engines and also have the heads stripped and valves vacuum tested crank may look OK but could be oval on journals or even bent
Caution!! You need to check the block is not warped (on each side) with a straight edge. Had the head gaskets failed? The heads need checking for cracks You need new rod and mains bearings and that depends on the crankshaft and con rods being serviceable. Take the Crankshaft out asap and take to a machine shop. Those rods look oval. Was there glitter in the oil? As a minimum you need new oil & water pumps, timing chain set and chain guides. Flush out the oil system. Put a message out for free advice from an Aston man. Good luck!
Use intake cleaner on the pistons and other metal parts. It'll cut through varnish and carbon. Final clean with brake cleaner. If the block does not have steel liners don't hone it, you'll likely tear through the thin plasma coated linings. Buy new bearing shells, don't use the old ones.
my opinion is to use the crank & pistons from the new engine & the con rods from the old engine as the con rods from the new engine may be damaged where the shell bearings have spun in them
Send the crankshaft out to be polished. When you get it back, check the clearances using Plastigage and your better set of bearings. That will tell you if you need to order new bearings; you can't go just by appearances. BTW, if you don't have a good torque wrench, now is the time to invest in one.
Also, you might want to consider using studs instead of another set of torque-to-yield head bolts. One advantage is that you just tighten them to the specified torque, whereas with TTY head bolts, you tighten them to a specified torque value, then a specified number of degrees more. To get it right, you really need a degree attachment for your socket wrench or a torque wrench with that feature built in (expensive). Another advantage is that studs are reusable, so you wouldn't have to replace them if, God forbid, you have to open the engine again.
Good luck! You're incredibly brave taking on an Aston V-12 for a first rebuild project!
I would suggest u have a boat anchor there
If you never used a Cylinder hone before vest let a engine shop do it this is a V12 block and it need proper measuring and getting the crank to safely work in it
New oil pump is critical for bearing failure. Also replace oil cooler (debris) and any bypass valves in filter housing. Ensure oil galleries are spotless.
Scotch pad has abrasive stuck to it, when used on head surfaces the abrasive goes into bores and oil galleries.
Seek professional help😮
Merry Christmas and have a great new year.
It would be a false economy to reuse the old bearings. Clean and polish the crank, then measure to find the exact bearing sizes required.
Some chance the bearings are shared with a Ford engine.
So, all that piston cleaning fluid, did that all go down the sink as it looked in the video? Or do you have some interceptor tank?
Check flatness of block head surfaces, you'll need to buy a certified straight edge or get a precision machine shop to make one. Alternatively take the parts to engine builder to check
@@Phantom-mk4kp thanks for the comment, this was months ago now! I ended up returning the engine and buying a low mileage 2nd hand one instead! She runs great 🤪
@@itsalexbaldwinTo be honest, you made the correct choice
@@Phantom-mk4kp 100% - it was fun stripping an engine down totally though, good experience!
You cant re use shell bearings conrods will be knackered aswell.
Never never re use bearings,crank will need a grind otherwise you are in big trouble, you always skim aluminium heads before you put them back ,I would also get the block skimmed especially seeing the state of the engine and always renew the oil pump otherwise you will be stripping the engine down again never mix Conrads and big ends as they are a machined pair hope the build goes well
thanks for sharing this!
How do you pull the crank pulley with it in the car
I use a Dishwasher cleans parts good as new
This engine has obviously had oil starvation. When a bearing shell has been overheated they shrink and become loose in the housing. The tags on shell bearings are only to locate the shell in position for assembly and play no roll in retaining it when running. they are retained by the bearing being larger than the housing. When a shell has spun it means it has stuck to the crank and been dragged round in the con rod. When this happens the rods will be damaged and should be measured for size and roundness. Likewise the crank should be checked for size and roundness. Also it isn't uncommon when this happens for the crank to bend due to localised heating. Yes a bent crank will turn freely in the block, but will stress the main bearings and give a vibration shortening the life of the engine drastically. If the crank is steel and tuftrided, it can be straightened. All dimensions on mains and crank housing NEED to be checked as does the crank. This was probably caused by an oil leak/oil burning and lack of oil or a faulty oil pump. The pump can be checked if your in any doubt as it's a big job to change later. Always worth changing the rings when you have it this far apart. And this might be the cause of the oil starvation. Make sure you check the ring gaps on the new rings.
i would highly recommend new shells / bearings , crankshaft and conrods , also if you are using the crankshaft from the engine you have stripped down in this video , then i would get it reground , as it almost defo will have scores in it from the bad shells , this will eat your new shells pretty much instantly ,
Agree with all the commenters - it's brave to take on a project like this, but it's going to be false economy not to find some people with expertise and equipment to do some things properly.
First thing is that cleanliness is everything on a high-performance engine like that - that block can't just be cleaned up on the head mating surface, it needs to have all the oil gallery plugs removed and to be hot-tanked and properly flushed out. The whole oil system will have bits of old bearing metal through it. One of the major advantages to proper cleaning by a light engineering firm is that it makes dealing with all the pieces much nicer, and makes finding any problems much easier.
After that, the rotating parts have to be very carefully inspected, and measured. It's obvious that you're going to have to go at least one undersize on the big-ends, maybe more since you won't know from just looking at it like that whether it's still actually round. If you're lucky the mains will just want a polish. Obviously you won't be able to re-use those bearings since they're in pieces, but just don't do that anyway. Maybe if there's something that requires you to perform a bottom end strip down, your bearings all look near new, you might plastigage them to check the clearance and re-use them, but for the amount of money and time it takes to get to them I'd just replace them every time.
Given the pounding the rods and crank took with that dud big-end, I'd be inclined to crack-test at least that rod, if not all. But to be completely honest, if I was after an engine with a good bottom end, I wouldn't have bought one that had a bad knock! Unfortunately with the way the first engine died, the crank in that one has to be suspect too. Nothing for it but to take them both out, clean them carefully, have them both crack-tested and measured for straightness and bearing surface dimensions. Then you'll know if they're reusable. Although, you mentioned 'eating into your margins', which presumes you're going to be doing this up to on-sell? Are you going to inform the buyer of what you've had to do, or have the engine assembled by an expert?
Been run with too little oil OR defunct oil pump...rather rare though...
The wife's a pretty good cleaner.
After that level of damage, I would want every check on every component carried out, bore wear,crank ground, balancing etc. the full works. When there is so much labour involved in getting there and so much spent, do the full job evidenced to the buyer
NEW BEARINGS MATE!!!
Great video! What bolts did you use to mount the engine on the stand? Where did you purchase them? I've got an AM11 DB9 engine I need to strip down.
Thanks man! I’m pretty sure I just used the bolts that connected the torque tube to the engine!
Barum engines on U tube would be worth speaking too dont no how far away from you but they are the guys.
That POS was run out of oil. That's what cooks the hell out of the rod bearings.
That crank will need a weld up and grind. I doubt you can just turn it down and use oversized bearings.
Bearings, rings, rod bolts, all new.
Don't try and reuse any of it.
I haven't heard an engineering shop mentioned to check heads and engine decks yet and I assume your going to polish the crank with a disc grinder? 😅
Haha it’s been to a shop now and the verdict was bad! Engine is being returned but I believe I’ve found a good, running one at a reasonable price!
Great update. It would be interesting to get opinions on what happened to the bearings on the new engine. I wonder if it overheated at some stage and warped them? Or was it apart before and had a poor rebuild?
Take the crank out and blow air down oil ways
New bearings everywhere and you need an inside micrometer to mix and match them....
Next time you build an engine you can purchase ARP Head Studs instead of the OEM Head Bolts. The ARP Studs are stronger and they can be reused, but you have to use ARP’s lube and torque values…cheers.
And listen to the guy who said to take the engine to a professional shop for god’s sake.
As others have said watch Ricki at RE Performance or Lee at Barum Engines on building engines. Ring them up and talk to them or pay them a visit. If you don't get this right first time you may loose not only your time but a lot of money in seconds not minutes!
Barum engine would help you with this if your in the uk
I just realized that it looks like a scaled down RR Merlin engine ala the Mustang and Spitfire of WW II fame…..you may have heard of it. It happened in Europe a long time ago 😀 i only mention it as typical of your age instead of a controlled environment parts washer, you seem to prefer just dumping harmful chemicals directly down the sewer, out of sight …. Out of mind.
watch there is no swarfe in the oil hole on the damaged bearing rods
You need to make sure the block is flat and the beads are flat as it’s a old block .
what you seem to doing is bodge repair the motor,strip it right out,clean,measure,reassemble
Rebuilding a DB9 engine is not a penny pinching job. After getting the block and heads pressure cleaned you studiously measure every thing that has a dimension and examine every square mil for cracks. Rods need to be reconditioned and resized, crank needs to scrupulously cleaned including oil channels, inspected as to whether it's usable and reconditioned. The heads need to be totally rebuilt, if they don't have cracks. All this is going to take a lot of money, after all you aren't just rehabbing an old ford flathead V8. Good luck from the colonies.😆
I definitely would not reuse the old rod or crank bearings
What years are those motors?
2008
new bearing shells no other way
It’s called torque to yield. And they are head bolts not header bolts
Check out jayem's video on his DB9 , and also barum engines channel on what's involved in doing an engine properly
Obviously the engine will need all new main bearings , big end bearings and a new oil pump.
The higher the performance of an engine the more skill goes into it's build. Starting your learning curve on an Aston Martin engine is either very brave or very foolish ? The amount of money that will go into it in parts alone will be eye watering and if you get it wrong they will join the scrap pile. Think very hard before continuing and know your limitations.
NOOOOOooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooo, Do not reuse those Main or Con Rod Bearings. WHOA,
you really need to take the engine to an Aston engine builder ,,,,,,,,,,,not any old back st cheap garage , the last thing you need is to put the engine in and it go bang , get it properly rebuilt
It's not the 2 x V6 Ford Mondeo engines welded together that I have been led to believe Aston V-12's are. Not even remotely.
Don't use rods with spun bearings,
Never consider reusing bearing shells, you cant even look at them without chucking them
It would be better to have removed the crankshaft before cleaning the engine. It will need to ve linebored and I would think twice before using the rods of the second engine. Also the oil galleries need to professionally cleaned in the block and the crankshaft for metal ahavings
😮 that is by far the worst bottom end beating I’ve ever seen, no wonder it was knocking
Haha I was going to say in the video “it’s the worst I’ve ever seen”, but I’ve only seen 2 😂 glad you’re in agreement though!
That is pretty good for oil starved crank bearings, I have seen engines with no bearings left !
@@daxxr2532 😂😂
That crank will be usless have it checked by a engine shop rods will be usless.
Crumbs. I don’t know what to say. The 2nd crank will need to be measured across all its dimensions. The block needs the same. If your lucky you might be able to get new bearings to match the crank. The block needs a proper hot wash and chemical clean. And that’s just the start of it. Bin all the original bearings. They’ll be worn and out of spec.
You need to find someone with experience of that engine. I don’t believe it’s a DIY proposition unless you have access to all the measurements, measuring equipment and machining equipment
A world of pain awaits
What’s happening with the content mate???
Back today mate, 5pm! All explained then
The oilpump i guarantee is wrecked
No dont use the old end shells
Would have to be suspicious of the knocking engine,it’s either been run with no oil or red lined for too long,making a Frankenstein of two engines sounds good and economically viable but really you should send all the bits you want to use to a pro and have everything gauged,and all machine work done and hot tanked to clean everything out,heads skimmed and rebuilt and built up in a clean room,no such thing as a cheap rebuild with these engines,full marks for having a go but comparative inexperience could lead to a very expensive boat anchor,sorry to be a killjoy but if a buyer asked who built the engine and you say me on the floor out of two shagged engines they’ll be out the door before you finish the sentence.
it would be complete lunacy to reuse any bearings and total false economy, imagine all the work you have put in will be undone in a few hundred miles, that engine is nowhere near clean enough to rebuild, all the oil ways need cleaning out, then you need the tools to measure journals and bores, you will need new piston rings. Any shortcuts taken in the rebuild will bite you right in the arse!!
Don't re use them bearings ffs make sure all them oil ways are clean and clear
first
I think you're asking for trouble .
All those surfaces need remachining and all bearings replaced
You really can't half arse it .
You'll just be wasting your time and money.
Those bearings didn't fail for no reason, likely oil starvation so likely needs a new oil pump and all the oil delivery valleys cleaned out, because that bearing material has gone somewhere
If you don't rebuild this engine correctly it won't last and your work will be for nothing
Never ever use old bearings they won’t last 10 miles