@@brokengatorvr7573 I did it during covid. Finding the right tools is the longest art. I tool my time. Now I could do it much faster. In a couple of days because I work slowly.
I built my own rear hub drive 1500W 52V 24ah hard tail, and 5,500 miles later, it's still going strong. It'll pull to 42-45mph, and will do a minimum of 22 miles using throttle only, and a maximum 70+ miles on the economical PAS setting. The two biggest complaints I had were the saddle soreness, (which is a painful problem if you're commuting every day) and wind chill when riding at speed, or in cold weather which we get so frequently in England. I solved these issues by fitting a 12" wide comfort saddle, to stop the saddle soreness, and that made a HUGE difference. Immediately became very, very comfortable to ride and ceased all pain. To combat the wind chill I simply fitted a cheap motorcycle windshield, paired it with a handlebar bag which sits IN FRONT of the handlebars, and meets the bottom of the windshield perfectly, blocking enough of the headwind to make riding in rain and cold weather significantly less uncomfortable. I uprated pretty much every component of the hard tail Barracuda rock frame, and the most demanding part of maintenance is, believe it or not, the disc brakes. I opted for mechanical disc brakes, simply because the amount of time I spend tinkering with the brakes means that hydraulic brakes are unsuitable for higher powered ebikes. They aren't anywhere near as easy to fiddle with as mechanical disc brakes, and despite the daily realignments and adjustments, which only take me about 10 minutes at most, the mechanical disc brakes have been brilliant. They're easy to adjust, easy to repair if they fail, and you don't need any brakes bleed kits to adjust them. Id even go so far as to say hydraulic disc brakes are only really suitable on the big motorcycle brakes that surrons use. The last thing I'd say is to encourage ebikers to modify their bikes by manufacturing their own mods, and in doing so, making their bikes more comfortable. I fabricated a wind deflector for my ebike, made from simple slats of 3x9" sheet metals, bolted togrtherbin such a fashion that I got a 9 inch square plate of thin metal, which I attached to the front forks aswell as the bottom of the windshield, and with a bit of tinkering it now offers me almost complete wind blocking whilst riding. The end result is an incredibly comfortable ebike which is a joy to ride, can easily keep up with city traffic making riding it much safer, and it's still capable and light enough to ride whilst the electrics are switched off. Total cost is somewhere around £1400 British pounds, and for that outlay, I've had just over 5,500 miles of travel, most of it very comfortable too. I hope you all have a great day,
I bought a half decent mtb 27.5” hardtail with hydr. brakes, put the bafang 750w in it, mirrors, indicators, mudguards, pannier, frame bag 17.5wh battery, 500c display - I don’t drive for a specific reason so an ebike is my transport and I love it - a real buzz to ride. Getting fitter too 👍😁
I have the Bafang mid-drive 1000w on my Catrike 559. It is powerful and an amazing unit. Install was a little more complex as there are more sensors. There is a sensor on the derailleur cable but as stated the kit is plug and play. With a little boom adjustment on the trike, my disabled wife can now ride along since the throttle aids in pedaling. A big thumbs up on this video.
@@hoolydooly5072 The police in our area have way more important things to be concerned with. Also unless you in an accident or doing something really stupid you’ve got nothing to worry about. Top speed can be over 35mph with a range of 55 miles.(in assist level 3or less. A complete game charger for my handicapped girl.
Feeling like a kid on Christmas again after putting the same motor on my old mountain bike. Took me nearly 7 hour since the bottom bracket refused to come off and had to cut it off, but thank you to your video, I was able to install everything to make it work perfectly. Cheers mate!!
@@Biglex524 if the threads have become salt welded into the BB shell you did the right thing. They have a special BB removal tool in most workshops with a 3 foot long monster torque arm on it. Believe me if that does not break it free the frame is gash!
@@carlsgarage2023 My nephew used to work in Halfords at the bike hut and their health & safety regs required them to slightly overtighten BB shells to avoid any libel or law suits should they break free on a customers bike. If the BB hanger threads have only been lightly greased they often suffer water ingress and begin to salt weld over time. Combine this with over zealous tightening and you have a sealed BB bearing cartridge that is a total pig to remove. I always over grease and use ptfe tape when fitting sealed cartridge bearings into a BB shell and only ever tighten to the recommended maximum torque.
@@MrDegsy69 great tip. Working on bikes is totally different to cars, as I'm slowly finding out. I'm fitting the bafang motor myself to an old Raleigh 'Urban Swamp with Haro stickers' frame so hopefully I'll never worry about these BB threads again - these Bafang kits seem to bypass said threads and clamp from the outside.
Very helpful video I am 50 yo and grew up doing all my own work to keep my bikes on the road. This is the first time seeing the new tools needed and the way the cranks are done now. Seriously thinking of trying the electric bicycle, so thank you very much for the information.
How'd ya go? I just ordered the kit last night. I already own a converted bike which I bought converted already from a shop. So this time I'm gunna do it myself so that I have a 2nd bike for guests.
Thanks for this. My kit came without instructions, so this was a very helpful video. I just finished mine and I want to point out a couple of things to watch out for: 1. My right hand bottom bracket was also reverse thread. A BIG spanner (or wrench) is needed for these, 8 or 10 inch. 2. As you'll still need the rear gear changer and it's probably integral to your brake lever, then you'll only need one of the brake levers provided. This doesn't cause any issues, but does leave a connector hanging loose. 3. Pay careful attention to the route the wires take, especially where they cross the existing cables for your brakes and gears. I used a length of spiral cable tidy and had to carefully position the ties to avoid the cables on my bike which are all external on the frame. I'm glad to say that everything went well, and I now have the best bike in the village. I heavily insulated the power cable, wrapped all the cables in duct tape where they emerge from the motor and shielded this with a piece of plastic. You never know what's going to bounce up from the road and do them damage. There's also a loose connector at the motor for the brake sensor option if you didn't order that version. I found that the cap which comes with the display sensor fits this. The last point is tiny but worth mentioning. Larger cable ties are fine for securing the cables. Perhaps even desirable, but the speed sensor needs two of those small cable ties to secure it to the frame. Don't use up all the small cable ties up like I did, only to find you need ones those size at the end. I rummaged about and found a couple more small ones, but I had larger ones sat there the whole time so I was kicking myself about that. All the best with your build, and why not give everything a squirt of oil while you are there.
I had one and hated it, no matter how strong the chain was I would still break it! I think the newer ones have a torque sensor to stop overloading the chain but at the time my one did not have that option..
have been following this guide with a conversion; 1) the crank was so stuck (ten year old bike) that said crank puller couldn’t. 2) the bike had older style (very comfortable) handle bars that were too wide for Throttle switch - I had to strip handle bar back. But realised I’d have to replace it. 3) new chain- good trip. I had thought my 6 month old chain would suffice but no. 4) I’m convinced you loosen things before demonstrating in video. The bike is a family heirloom; my oldest sons first racing bike, my sweet middle sons means to get to work and then mine to get about when I didn’t want to use the good like So it is sentimental project to create a new use for this bike I will get it working yet
I didn't know e-bike conversion kits came in such a slick package, and I like how it mounts right into the bottom bracket. I was thinking of figuring out how to adapt a balance board motor to my bike, but this is probably a better idea. Good video, thanks for the review.
I have the 1000w version for the last 6 months or so and it is a fantastic kit. These motors have been around a good amount of years and are very solid. Parts are available also.
@muddy farmer No I wrapped the battery pack in tape and all connectors I put electrical tape on and ridden it in the rain lots. But obviously water vs electricity no good but if you do some things like I did no issues for me.
I have the 1500wat version of that motor and in 4 years it just keeps on trucking, that was the best installation video I've seen and I've watched a few
I fitted 250w (legal maximum here in the UK) kits to our two hybrid bikes along with 36v 17ah batteries, not concerned with top speed, though both capable of over 20mph, just wanted to get up hills and travel further 😊, with a range of over 50 miles at gentle speeds, we are very pleased with our Bafang Kits, highly recommended.👍
I watched a ton of videos showing the assembly. I finally bought a bike and the kit and using your video in steps as I assemble the bike. Your video keeps a nice pace.
You got me in bro. Totally my new thing imma start doing . I’m a single tax paying bloke who’s epileptic - this has helped me and my deaf wife who can’t hear at all in ways you couldn’t fathom. Thank you for uploading and making this as easy as could ever be :) imma get mine going here soon and hopefully go see my wife who’s staying and working at her cousins. This will also help me gain more meaningful emplyment and is a game changer
I'm on my second bafang mid drive bbs02 motor after changing the first one after 5 years. Nothing but praise for these motors, never let me down. You can buy a new bike and fit a motor for about half the price of bought ebike, and have better performance . Well done bafang
So true! I have upgraded a few bikes with bafang motors and they have been great. I got many years of use from them. A couple of times I had to replace the batteries after years of use, but not the motors. A comfortable bike + bafang + internal hub + big chain will be a dependable transportation with little maintenance required.
From Denmark: Thx a lot for this complete and very informative video and congratulations/all the best to the All Blacks Black Ferns for their team sprit and achievements. I used to play Rugby 7 and 15 when I was younger (I am 80 years old now) and still long distance Biking/Triking with NO EL ASSIST and with 65 kg gear and my 112 kg personal weight to carry. Last year I was on a 2.886 Km trip, which took me from Ebeltoft, Denmark to Frederikshavn, Ferry to Gothenburg Sweden and cross over Sweden to Stockholm, Ferry to Turku, Finland, Triking to Helsinki (6 weeks stay in Finland) , Ferry back to Stockholm (2 weeks stay there), Triking along the East Coast , With visit to the Island of Gotland, to Ystad, Ferry to the Danish Island of Bornholm. 2 weeks stay there, Ferry 2 Køge (38 km south of Copenhagen, East Coast of Denmark) and further South-West to the Island of Ærø and back to Ebeltoft. I am thinking of a Trip to Turkey over Austria (the Alps Mountains...). So, I am thinking about EL converting my ICE SPRINT FS Trike and having a solar panel rig mounted above my ZIFLEX Mono wheel Trailer (Similar to the Burley COHO XC trailer) . Your wonderful video comes in handy. 🙏
I've just fitted this kit to my 2021 orange crush, I had to modify the battery case as its tight in the frame and fitted a motor stabiliser bracket as it kept coming loose. I've managed 30 miles to a charge, it's a great kit, very happy.
Have had two mountain bikes converted with Bafang 500 watt systems. Chickened out an paid a shop to do it, for about 1800$US parts and labor. The 500 watt motor was quite adequate for a heavy person on moderate hills, it would get pretty hot going uphil but never cutout on me due to overheating, unlike the hub motor ebike I had before. The 500 watt motor is powerful enough to pull the chain hard enough to skip cogs on the rear cassette when starting at low speed, so it would seem that most regular bikes chain systems cant handle much more than 500 watts, or you have to be careful. The Bafang system I had only used wheel speed sensing, so setting #1 is like 5mph, #2 is like 7mph etc, it was kind of an unnatural pedalling feel as it had no torque sensor. The Bosch systems feel a lot better and have a more natural pedaling feel.
I put the 1000w with a 52v 19.2ah shark battery on a 2015 specialized rockhopper. It pulls me around 32mph without any pedal assist. Top speed ive seen with pedaling is about 36mph. The range is still great (20miles) i push it really hard and its extremely cold where im at right now. With better conditions i could probably get closer to 50/60 miles on a charge. I also did a little but winterization. Ive been caught in the rain a few times and ride through snow and slush without much worry.
I’m impressed. I will buy this kit, because of seeing you ride your bike at a good clip. I’m a hefty fella too. And, want to make sure this motor will do what I need it to do. Thanks for an excellent installation tutorial!!!
I did a build 4 years ago with this kit I really didn't like the torque forces put through a thin derailleur chain and rear derailleur so built mine with a NuVinchi N360 variable gear hub. Despite NuVinchi not recommending pairing a N360 to a 750w Banfang it works fine, and being a CVT gearbox gives smooth seemless acceleration with no jolts jarring or need to back off the throttle. If anyone is thinking of going with hub gears an Alcedoitalia dished chain ring gives a better chain line the teeth are moved in 5mm and with a thicker hub gear chain it is a more reliable set up.
As someone who started out with a Hub motor (Motor in rear wheel axle) I can say I have had many issues and noticed alot of flaws, and from what I have seen from professionals and riders Mid motor seems the way to go. Heck if a Dirt bike and Motor Cycle has been that way been doing it for decades it cant be wrong.
harder to do maintenance on hub motor since its attached to the wheel. also if you need to replace the motor then you have to buy the whole wheel since its all one unit. also hubs suck for hills and all the weight sits in the back of the bike (if you dont have suspension seat or rear suspension then your ass is gonna hurt, also your rear wheel is gonna take a lot of damage, youre wheel is going to go out of true all the time)@@DedoTi
I´ve been using my Bafang for a couple of years now, and like it a lot. There were problems to overcome ....... First it would not slide fully in to the bottom bracket, it fouled on the chainstay, and I had to return the frame to the dealer for some fancy welding. That was sorted vey well, and not too expensive. I found the automatic pedal assistance could be dangerous where pedestrians or unfenced mountain roads were concerned, depending which gear the bike was in it could surge forward when I wanted to creep. I dismantled the motor, (quite straightforward) and cut the appropriate wire to disconnect the auto function and reassembled. To my dismay, the motor was dead. Opening it up again, I tested all the connections and found that a white connector had not been fully connected, I pushed it in, it clicked, and all was then well. My ministrations had been the final thing to break the connection. After a while, the thumb throttle broke, due to being flimsy plastic, and I had to fix up another one. This took a few attempts, and on a couple of occasions the return spring failed with results that are only amusing in retrospect. I´m on solar power here in Spain, and need two batteries so I can ride while the sun shines and charge the other battery during the day. I´ve no regrets about buying Bafang, living in the mountains it´s a real gas to flash past the professional Lycra-clad locals as they puff and pant. One thing I would emphasise, is that putting my 1Kw motor on a bike without disc brakes would be about the daftest thing anyone could do.
Very clear and straightforward description. Can't say yet whether I'm game to do an installation myself but was impressed with his description of the kit, its design and performance.
The Bafang people handled all my inquiry questions incredibly well. The answers were swift, clear and answered my questions. No side stepping. I ordered it and to convert my commuter 8 speed internal hub bike to an e-bike. The mid drive gives me 8 internal speeds. I have assembled and test ridden e-bikes where I work but I had never done a conversion before. I did everything slowing, carefully and correctly as per the Bafang. I got it all together and did my test ride. It was amazing! It took a little bit of practice to understand the details. Its was easy to learn and it gets me around with virtually no 'work' on my part. I have to spin the pedals unless I use the throttle. When turning the cranks I don't feel that I am adding any power to my motion. My conversion is better than the e-bikes I test rode before I bought this Bafang kit (sell those bikes I test rode). When I turn off the Bafang, my bike rides like it used to but a little slower up hill with the added weight. No motor drag. Even when is 90+ degrees, I get to work with no sweat from the ride. I like this because I 'recycled' my commuter bike instead of replacing it! I will share all the benefits of an e-bike from my personal experience with my customers...I will leave out which system I use. I give it 6 stars on a 5 star scale.
I recently completed converting my Trek 3700 using this kit. I love it. As you mentioned there is no noticeable drag when it's powered off- I still do quite a bit of manual riding
Sneakily ride this in the uk get a 250 watt sticker with 48 volts and modify the battery witg 52volts for increased power anyone who looks start clown pedaling lok
Hi mate, did you record your total mileage up until you changed your battery by any chance? Also, what do you use your bike for, city commutes, off-road, mountain biking? I had my Trek 7.3 hybrid converted with the Bafang rear hub kit, (36v battery,) late last year. I've only clocked up about 600 miles so far, but am interested to know the lifespan of the battery for different cyclists. I use my bike to commute to work in London, do my shopping and for leisure. I never go offroad or hit trails etc., but I love the conversion and the best bit is cruising up hills that I would be struggling to do as I get older. Cheers!
@@najdaraj9420 I had on of these conversion kit installed on my bike and I can tell you: they are build like tanks!. The bike actually gave up before en bafang system which only failed once when the battery switch actually got into flames (I thought it was the battery so I sent it back to the dealer for refurbishment, I only niticed that the power switch melted down while dismantling the battery). To answer your question, my first 14Ah battery kept on working for 9000 km, the second one (17Ah) survived the bike which ended up in a scrapyard at 20000km... Actualy I s'till have it today, and I need to take it to the recycling park. Today I'm still convinces that the refurbishment of the battery wasn't needed. You can easily drive over 10000km with that kind of battery with no noticeable performance or range reduction. Very good system for that price.
I had a Bafang front wheel kit for my trike. I loved the plug sockets so if you had to remove the wheel for some reason you could disconnect it. What I didn't like is it had so much torque if you throttled it too heavy from a stop it would just twist and round out the fork mounts. Wasn't till after I sheered them out I found out about aftermarket torque arms.
I have this model it's excellent will hit over 30mph cruises easily about 20 with level 3 of 9 pedal assist and with the right gearing could climb any hill. And mines came with some handy stickers saying it's only 250w 36v to keep it legal 😉
Thank you very much for the best conversion kit explanation you did a really good job , I am in E-bikes for three years and I love it but soon I will build something where I can take my dog with me in a side car , this will be fun.
I went to order the kit through your link, which gave me a price of about $1500 (130 delivery) aud. So, of course, I did due diligence and checked prices in other locations. Ebay ended up being the best value for the same gear... I got a significant discount for some reason... and the whole cost with delivery included ended up being $1100 aud - $400 cheaper, or about 70% the cost. Just thought I'd let you and everyone know. I would like you to get a bit of a kickback, but they need to be competitive. Also, thanks heaps for your great video - it's awesomely presented aswell as very informative!
Nice video. I bought/installed similar kit, my battery is 48v11.6a, kit cost ~$900USD. So, free would have been much better. :) Been riding it about 4 months. Very happy with it, provides me more inducement to explore places uphill. Battery takes ~twice/thrice/4-times as long to charge as it takes to discharge. On flats with battery off there is a drag on the drive train. Nonetheless I am very happy with it.
You mentioned "drag on the drive train" while the battery is off. Does that mean there is drag with no pedal assist in action and gliding over the flats?
Great video! Very good tutorial for a completely unskilled novice like myself. I cant decide if I'm going to mid drive or rear hub yet, but this video has given the confidence to go ahead build one regardless. Thank you!
@@ginahardee4891While true, you can repair a chain in less than 5 minutes if you just carry a few links and the tool. Simply remove the broken link, add another one, then screw it back in. Done.
The problem is, that is how they are going to rip you off. If the cheap battery catches on fire and burns your house down, there's nobody to sue because it is a Chinese company.
@@davidgillen777 Generally good idea. Just always think fire safety. Surfaces, flammables, exit strategy. Consider using the oven as a safe box, but you wanna be able to get things out side if there is an issue. Happens infrequently, but often enough.
@@whazzat8015 If you have a detached garage or something, that is a very good idea. Yes, if I had a large no-name battery, it would be stored in something fireproof. A 400 watt hour lithium battery is storing 1.44 megajoules. That's just the energy storage. The material itself (when fully discharged) has a lot of energy too. They are VERY difficult to put out, so I am told.
Thanks Schematix! I just finished my build and kept on referring to this video. My issues were (1) I had a pressfit bottom bracket and had to by an adaptor and spacers, (2) I purchased the rack mount battery so that my top and down tube were clear. My dropouts here not flush so I had to hacksaw and file some steal plates as an adopter to fit the rear rack. However, this video was a great reference that I had a repeat. Thanks again!
Stumbled on this by accident and have to say very good review and I love your honesty! New sub although not sure what all you cover but this peaked my interest! Have a fantastic day everyone
I used A regular bike that had one simple 6speed rear hub. And bafang 750w. Then made a battery pack of 40amps. It worked excellent and much cleaner operation unlike MTB with multiply cogs. The brake handle also worked as clutch between gear changes. Ment no extra wear.
theres an actual sensor you can get that goes on the derailleur cable you can get that will do the "clutching" for you so you dont need to hit the brakes
I would love a update video! Looks like a great bit of kit though. I also like the enclosed style and the only downside I can see is that where I am only 250W is allowed. Though I must say that the ones I've tried do help quite a bit. Makes me think that all that wattage you have available is only ever being used for starting and slowly ascending hills. Great video (As per usual for you ;-)
Awesome! Thanks! Update please? Has the frame/chain held up to the extra power? Is it still capable on single track or anything more technical? All the electrical components still working?
Where are you Klaus? Those are some pretty out of date restrictions! Here in the UK the law's a mess on e-bikes. There's 1985 legislation that limits them to 250w/12v, but this only applies if you register it with DVLA, and there's no requirement to, so nobody does. We were adopting the EU legislation, but it was never ratified into UK law, then we left the EU, so it never will be. The police have enough laws to deal with anyone being wreckless or posing a danger on the road, so if someone builds a monster, and hasn't set a sensible cutoff speed they declare it an offroad e-bike, and if they catch you on the road with it again they'll charge you with something and confiscate it. I have run a 1000w front hub motor set to 32kmh (20mph) for many years. I behave in traffic and try not to show off or surprise motorists at junctions, and I've never had any problems. Police usually have more important stuff to deal with.
@@JoesWebPresence I guess the SOB's will never be happy!! First they outlaw most gas powered bikes/dirt bikes, say their too noisy, pollution, bla, bla, bla! 😭🙄 Then they outlaw e bikes, it's all about their power over you, nothing else! Remember the power we gave these a-holes during the "pandemic" and the lies and B.S. aren't slowing down. Maybe someday we'll take back our countries from these morons?
I followed this video closely too, but had the same issue as Kerry below, in that the motor unit fouled the chain stay. I needed a 5mm crank spacer, easily obtained from the local bike shop - thanks "Around Again Cycles", who also removed the crank for me. Fortunately, my crank housing was 68mm, but it did mean the left side motor locking plate was not flush with the motor (5mm difference ) and the supplied bolts would not reach. I had to use longer bolts and a series of washers to ensure a good fit. After that it was pretty straight forward. My motor kit did not have sensors for the brake leavers and I ended up with a spare cable on the wiring loom. Thanks again for your efforts.
If you are going on technical trails I recommend you buy a bafang ultra, it needs to be fitted into a frame (you can also just buy a bunch of really good Chinese frames with bafang ultra slots on the bottom ready to allow it to be cleanly installed.) Bafang Ultras are stronger and quite indestructible even on rough trails which is why a lot of top dollar eMTBs actually use them in their designs .
Hi mate very much enjoyed.. I have the same Bafang BBS02B 750W A quick note you can cut and join the main wire from the display about 5 or 7 wires that need to be rejoined individually but easy to do. For a nice looking wiring job and a gear changing sensor is a big help..Happy trails
Thank you, a interesting and informative video, one of the things that I would be concerned about, would be the waterproofing of the various electrical connections, I realise that mudguards can be fitted, however, here in the U.K. it rains a lot, and the connectors need to be waterproof.
Thanks very much! Very helpful... and I never felt like I was watching an ad. I'm tempted to buy an e-bike... but now I'm feeling I might try this project. Thank you so much!
Well done! Basic and straight forward... I imagine you would recommend That you put the kit on a bike that has at least front suspension and really good brakes, because you will need them...
Good review thanks. I have done this conversion and it is very easy with the right tools. Range?, my backside has had enough long before the battery runs out.
Outstanding video! Thank you for the work putting that together! I'm not as mechanically inclined as yourself, but you instill confidence in people like me. I'm going for it! Mahalo and Aloha!
Nice informative vid. Link to the kit reveals the price tag equivalent to buying a ("cheap") factory made E-bike. Perhaps the performance level makes the difference worth it.
@@gosttunter No idea what brand it is , but looks to me just like the ones you see everyday on Ebay they probably all made in the same factory somewhere in China just with different labels
@@gosttunter get it better from aliexpress from the orignal seller or sellers that have realy good reviews they mostly are honest with the power and stuff infos bafang olso has his own store theres probably some kits there too im not sure if it ships to us tho but u can take a look
Really like your video. As a six foot ex-tight head prop, I appreciate your noting how well it worked out for your. Very clear details. I would start to order if I had any clue about how to size my bottom bracket. I do a variety of riding and want/need a flexible assist. I am also using my Yak trailer for a 35-40 km round trip to the store at the lake. Thanks again.
After hearing about other people talking abut how their alloy bikes snapped in various places I decided too stay with the STEEL FRAME BICYCLES for peace of mind... cheers
bro what, alloy doesnt snap, it bends, steel also bends, the only material that can "snap" is carbon, and if you get good quality carbon, then you will never have it snap or break on you. unless you ride absolutely massive jumps and case all of them.
best ever !!! please do scooters . you are amazing !! no other dorks on youtube does such an indepth . I watch a whole lotta tech, and reviews , and this is by far the very best !!!!
Lovely review and tutorial. I felt you kind of dodged the range question a little too much: some of your viewers might be looking at these kits for commuting purposes, and for them this question is important even if you can't guarantee an accurate range. Perhaps you could say "With this bike on these tyres with my weight and riding style, I got 40km" (or 60 or whatever) Anyways thanks for the great review!
As for removing the bottom bracket, most local bike shops will do it for less than the cost of the special tool. Of course you may want to return the bike to analog at some point and need the tool anyway.
Got to say the control box being out of the motor isn't a bad thing. Yeah it's going to be 'one' extra thing hanging on the frame somewhere but once it's on, it's on. Learned an important thing though, lithium batteries DON'T take jars and bumps of the road too well. Second note is unless it is LOCKED onto the frame, it's a quick 'stolen item'. I got around the problem by putting my lithium set in a simple and small backpack. What's six to seven pounds to carry yourself? Also your body is going to make the BEST shock absorber versus the bike's frame. Other 'small' annoyance is you'll have to hook and unhook the battery whenever you leave the bike. 'Small' annoyance given how expensive lithium battery packs are. Front wheel mounted e-bike motors are not bad either BUT you should to must buy some reinforcement to lock the wheel in. Front bike mounting was NEVER designed for torque. Don't matter how tight you tighten it, once the torque of the motor forces the axel to twist, that front wheel is going to break loose. But the reinforcement kits are actually fairly cheap compared to the entire project. Second thing ALL batteries are sensitive to is very cold weather. Leaving batteries outside in freezing weather seriously shortens their life. Lithium packs are easily connected and disconnect and when not in use, take them inside at home or work. Learned this lesson the hard way with my four twelve volt lead batteries. Half the Amp hours and better than four times heavier. When your lugging almost fifty pounds of batteries, that is NOT a quick and easy connect and disconnect. Fifty pounds of batteries take a lot of careful strapping to a frame because you definitely do NOT want fifty pounds on a bike EVER shifting. Learned that with a heavy duty rack bolted on. Just a ever slight wiggle anyways... you definitely feel it throw off the bike's center of gravity. Next bike had a WELDED RACK! Made a world of difference. Anyways when something has play, you definitely know it's slowly loosening itself. Well I'm going to point out the one shortfall the system you installed does have. Only one of know of granted. Don't be surprised if you bike chain snaps. It was designed with human limitations in mind and that motor can and will put a lot more stress on it that you can. Remember saying you can go a nice clip up a hill? Can most people do that? Remember when you are going faster than most people can do on their own, you are stressing that bike chain that much more. Nicely, that's the only flaw I really see with that system. Actually that is the very real flaw of ALL e-bike kits. General rule, don't push the bikes much past the speeds they were designed for. Anyways this time I'm skipping an e-bike and going for e-trike. Starting to get too heavy myself for e-bikes and can use the basket on trikes for important things like grocery shopping, doing laundry at a laundry matt. Course I do know the drawback with trikes, MUCH less stable at high speeds! So have another reason to slow it down. Especially with the single wheel at the front of the bike. But I'm not going for speed but for ease for them 10 mile round trips from places I need to go. Anyways slower also means better mileage. Its acceleration that eats the majority of all batteries. Well, that is my two bits, all learned the hard way. These people who want to go 25mph plus on their bikes? I think they are just a little nuts because anything over twenty can easily kill you on a BAD spill. Should know and got the scar my head, two cracked ribs, punctured lung, broken collar bone and broken sternum. Hit the shoulder of the road over a dark patch. Doing 20 was the biggest mistake. Was running late for work and in trying to save time, never made it. If I wouldn't of been found and taken to a hospital I would of died as my lung filled up with blood and I already have breathing problems. Ex-smoker who did 25 years of damage to my lungs. Haven't smoked in six but the damage is STILL there. So people who want to go FAST on their bikes, don't be surprised if it leads to a quick way to die. You only NEED to be UNLUCKY ONCE. I just hope someone new to this type of project reads this and gives pause to what I'm saying because e-bikes are an awesome and cheap mode of transportation BUT only if your smart about it. I've learned my lessons the hard way. Mom asked how could I go back? I simply said if you get in a car accident, does that mean you'll never drive again? Sometimes you have to work with what you can afford. Especially when you live on your own and your job... isn't that great a paying one either. Anyways e-bike are super fun to ride! Get to enjoy the ride without wearing yourself out, well, until the batteries die! LOL
i want to do more than 25mph.....i'm looking for those 40+ de-restricted conversions, i have a UNICYCLE as i feel having one wheel is faster than two, theres someone that said he can do the conversion but will have to carry battery in backpack (like you suggested) wish me luck!!
@@Mark_106 You are right about one wheel being faster than two. Each contact a wheel has to the ground is more friction which generally slows you down more and two? Only one wheel? There's also going to be a lot less frame which also means your are working with a much lighter frame but are you SURE you want to push forty plus?!? How about set the limit at ten and get comfortable with it and bump it up in 5 mph increments? I'm pretty sure once you hit 20 plus you are personally going to start to fell how dangerous the speed is but at least learn how to deal with it in smaller steps! I'm NOT going to wish you luck... I'm going to wish you LIVE THREW IT! The faster you go, the riskier it becomes and go fast enough? It's a question of when not if you get into a serious accident. The problem with real speed? One you have less time to react to surprises and two? Anything as simple as loose gravel or dirt on a slight turn? Don't be surprised if you keep going almost straight as you start skidding. I've dealt with that with a motorcycle that has TWO points of contact to the ground and MUCH heavier. What do you think will happen with you one point of contact but much lighter going the same speed? Least with a motorcycle you CAN skid, not recommended but you can. Unicycle? I have YET to see that. But I do wish you the best of luck just the same but on the same note using my common sense, you will eventually wipe out and the faster you go? The less likely you are going to survive it. Save the speed for straightaways. Any other way is a death wish and don't forget, even on straightaways people WILL walk or drive leading to you getting cut off. On that note YOU are definitely screwed and the person that didn't notice you? Walking? Probably just as dead. Driving? Much better off. It's common sense. You DO need to realize one other thing too, people walking and using a cross walk ARE NOT expecting a person riding a wheel to be doing 40 plus. So even seeing you at a glance will start crossing anyways. You might call them IDIOTS with your dying breath but seriously? How many people riding a unicycle are seen tearing down the road doing 40 plus? Risking your life is one thing but risking others? I'm going to put it simple, you ARE doing a dangerous build and you BETTER have ALOT of common sense to go with it.
I have one exact motor and have ridden with it for about 8 month now. Range: with my fully changed 52V 20Ah battery to 90% and on a flat road with only very minor up and downs, and discharged down to max 3.6V per cell (its a 14S8P battery) and I only use the throttle all the time, and no head wind or anything like that I get around 20km, if I draw it to 3.4V I can surely get out 10 km more and If i draw it down to 3V per cell most likely 5km more. But I go for life for the battery, if I want distance I also pedal which is the normal I do. Recently I charged to 90% as usual as max and took a tour at level 6 assistans of 9 with normal pedaling get you up to 36kmh with very normal pedaling, which is a nice speed. I pedal like that for 40km but after that the battery was only down to 3.6v per cell anyway. Have bought (before the battery price went up like crazy) 2 more 52 cell batteries with a combined capacity close to the bigger one. With all those connected together that means that I can go full throttle all the time for over 40km. If I also pedal at 36kmh all the time then double that.
@@jaribilesh8492 mine does 24mph or 40kph if you do metric that is what the firmware is maxed to. Using a 42 tooth chainring 11/36tooth cassette. 15:35
That was brilliant, I was considering converting one of my full suspension K2's, I've since bought Giant Talon hardtail ebike but now I'll probably still go ahead and convert one of the K2's
I think that is most awesome how you had a transcript and even the fact sheet from the batteries so we can go right to that supplier and purchase the kit know why we're purchasing it. I too I'm going to choose the 750 but thank as you did even if I opted for the 1kwatt the 750 goes up and over so I spend extra money better spent on that 52 volt battery rather than a 48. Yep great directions information and explanation the instructions spot on which reminds me I'm ready for some tea. Cheerio
Excellent instructional video - many thanks. I always say when I need an electric bike I'll give up riding. However at 72 and lately loosing my wind considerably - maybe....just maybe. What weight does this add to the bike as my Carrera subway is 19 kilos with 8 speed hub & dyna front hub plus self at 100 kilos. Thanks again, Best from the UK.
One thing that people have completely missed is it’s not about just going and buying a conversion kit - because you can with absolutely no legal checks online. Depending on your country fitting a whopping great big 750w motor puts you into license plate, moped territory. Which you can’t do if you wanted to, for obvious reasons. (Like you can’t register a pedal bike as a moped and fitting number plate, wearing a certified crash helmet on the road and indicators or having brakes and -most importantly, tyres speed rated to match the faster road. It’s not illegal to own an e-bike with a power output exceeding 250 Watts, or where the electrical assistance doesn’t cut off at 25kph. However, it is illegal to ride it as you would a standard bike (without it being registered and insured like a moped), on a public highway - this includes both roads and off-road rights of way such as bridleways and byways. E-bikes that do not conform to regulations can only be ridden on private land where the public doesn’t have access, with the permission of the landowner. U.K. fir eg
Really great installation video -- with all bases covered nicely. Thanks for that. And yes -- I would like to see a follow-up video, as you mentioned. Cheers
A year later, built my own bike, rode 3000 km and enjoyed every minute of it! Thank you for producing this video! Bonjour New Zealand from Québec!
I know this was a while ago 😅 but do you happen to know how long it takes to install and uninstall this kit?
@@brokengatorvr7573 I did it during covid. Finding the right tools is the longest art. I tool my time. Now I could do it much faster. In a couple of days because I work slowly.
@@brokengatorvr7573 with the right tools probably like 20 minutes.
Great video. I am 69 years old and am thinking about an e bike. I think buying a kit is a great idea. Thanks, now I am sure I’m buying a kit
I built my own rear hub drive 1500W 52V 24ah hard tail, and 5,500 miles later, it's still going strong.
It'll pull to 42-45mph, and will do a minimum of 22 miles using throttle only, and a maximum 70+ miles on the economical PAS setting.
The two biggest complaints I had were the saddle soreness, (which is a painful problem if you're commuting every day) and wind chill when riding at speed, or in cold weather which we get so frequently in England.
I solved these issues by fitting a 12" wide comfort saddle, to stop the saddle soreness, and that made a HUGE difference. Immediately became very, very comfortable to ride and ceased all pain.
To combat the wind chill I simply fitted a cheap motorcycle windshield, paired it with a handlebar bag which sits IN FRONT of the handlebars, and meets the bottom of the windshield perfectly, blocking enough of the headwind to make riding in rain and cold weather significantly less uncomfortable.
I uprated pretty much every component of the hard tail Barracuda rock frame, and the most demanding part of maintenance is, believe it or not, the disc brakes.
I opted for mechanical disc brakes, simply because the amount of time I spend tinkering with the brakes means that hydraulic brakes are unsuitable for higher powered ebikes. They aren't anywhere near as easy to fiddle with as mechanical disc brakes, and despite the daily realignments and adjustments, which only take me about 10 minutes at most, the mechanical disc brakes have been brilliant. They're easy to adjust, easy to repair if they fail, and you don't need any brakes bleed kits to adjust them.
Id even go so far as to say hydraulic disc brakes are only really suitable on the big motorcycle brakes that surrons use.
The last thing I'd say is to encourage ebikers to modify their bikes by manufacturing their own mods, and in doing so, making their bikes more comfortable.
I fabricated a wind deflector for my ebike, made from simple slats of 3x9" sheet metals, bolted togrtherbin such a fashion that I got a 9 inch square plate of thin metal, which I attached to the front forks aswell as the bottom of the windshield, and with a bit of tinkering it now offers me almost complete wind blocking whilst riding.
The end result is an incredibly comfortable ebike which is a joy to ride, can easily keep up with city traffic making riding it much safer, and it's still capable and light enough to ride whilst the electrics are switched off.
Total cost is somewhere around £1400 British pounds, and for that outlay, I've had just over 5,500 miles of travel, most of it very comfortable too.
I hope you all have a great day,
Where did you get the kit?
That sounds amazing. Good on you!
Awesome mate thanks for that
@@tonydodds4745 "built it himself"
@@RoughWalkers lmao he built the ebike, not the motor
Hi your a big bloke and that motor was flying up the hills without you turning a pedal just one word FANTASTIC.
Yes, none effort neded, its more like an motorbike?
I bought a half decent mtb 27.5” hardtail with hydr. brakes, put the bafang 750w in it, mirrors, indicators, mudguards, pannier, frame bag 17.5wh battery, 500c display - I don’t drive for a specific reason so an ebike is my transport and I love it - a real buzz to ride. Getting fitter too 👍😁
What range do you get?
100%
@@dahrafs9798 i believe 750w is around 60 miles
I have the Bafang mid-drive 1000w on my Catrike 559. It is powerful and an amazing unit. Install was a little more complex as there are more sensors. There is a sensor on the derailleur cable but as stated the kit is plug and play. With a little boom adjustment on the trike, my disabled wife can now ride along since the throttle aids in pedaling. A big thumbs up on this video.
Right on Douglas Kaye ... My buddy's got a thousand CC Sportster trike that's available if you're interested, wooopaahh!
what is the price
What is the top speed mph
@@hoolydooly5072
The police in our area have way more important things to be concerned with. Also unless you in an accident or doing something really stupid you’ve got nothing to worry about. Top speed can be over 35mph with a range of 55 miles.(in assist level 3or less. A complete game charger for my handicapped girl.
@@douglaskaye1395when your girl just uses the throttle only, how far is the range? Have you maxed the battery out yet on your rides? Thanks
Feeling like a kid on Christmas again after putting the same motor on my old mountain bike. Took me nearly 7 hour since the bottom bracket refused to come off and had to cut it off, but thank you to your video, I was able to install everything to make it work perfectly. Cheers mate!!
I had to go to my local bike shop to remove the bottom bracket and even they had a tough time doing it 🤣
@@Biglex524 if the threads have become salt welded into the BB shell you did the right thing. They have a special BB removal tool in most workshops with a 3 foot long monster torque arm on it. Believe me if that does not break it free the frame is gash!
@@MrDegsy69just done this today. I used plenty of wd40 and an impact wrench with that special socket and eventually, it came off. Stuck solid it was.
@@carlsgarage2023 My nephew used to work in Halfords at the bike hut and their health & safety regs required them to slightly overtighten BB shells to avoid any libel or law suits should they break free on a customers bike.
If the BB hanger threads have only been lightly greased they often suffer water ingress and begin to salt weld over time. Combine this with over zealous tightening and you have a sealed BB bearing cartridge that is a total pig to remove.
I always over grease and use ptfe tape when fitting sealed cartridge bearings into a BB shell and only ever tighten to the recommended maximum torque.
@@MrDegsy69 great tip. Working on bikes is totally different to cars, as I'm slowly finding out. I'm fitting the bafang motor myself to an old Raleigh 'Urban Swamp with Haro stickers' frame so hopefully I'll never worry about these BB threads again - these Bafang kits seem to bypass said threads and clamp from the outside.
Very helpful video I am 50 yo and grew up doing all my own work to keep my bikes on the road. This is the first time seeing the new tools needed and the way the cranks are done now. Seriously thinking of trying the electric bicycle, so thank you very much for the information.
How'd ya go? I just ordered the kit last night. I already own a converted bike which I bought converted already from a shop. So this time I'm gunna do it myself so that I have a 2nd bike for guests.
Thanks for this. My kit came without instructions, so this was a very helpful video. I just finished mine and I want to point out a couple of things to watch out for:
1. My right hand bottom bracket was also reverse thread. A BIG spanner (or wrench) is needed for these, 8 or 10 inch.
2. As you'll still need the rear gear changer and it's probably integral to your brake lever, then you'll only need one of the brake levers provided. This doesn't cause any issues, but does leave a connector hanging loose.
3. Pay careful attention to the route the wires take, especially where they cross the existing cables for your brakes and gears. I used a length of spiral cable tidy and had to carefully position the ties to avoid the cables on my bike which are all external on the frame.
I'm glad to say that everything went well, and I now have the best bike in the village. I heavily insulated the power cable, wrapped all the cables in duct tape where they emerge from the motor and shielded this with a piece of plastic. You never know what's going to bounce up from the road and do them damage. There's also a loose connector at the motor for the brake sensor option if you didn't order that version. I found that the cap which comes with the display sensor fits this.
The last point is tiny but worth mentioning. Larger cable ties are fine for securing the cables. Perhaps even desirable, but the speed sensor needs two of those small cable ties to secure it to the frame. Don't use up all the small cable ties up like I did, only to find you need ones those size at the end. I rummaged about and found a couple more small ones, but I had larger ones sat there the whole time so I was kicking myself about that.
All the best with your build, and why not give everything a squirt of oil while you are there.
I had one and hated it, no matter how strong the chain was I would still break it! I think the newer ones have a torque sensor to stop overloading the chain but at the time my one did not have that option..
Just use a couple of bread loaf twist ties for speed sensor!! l.o.l.
@@gregb1599 Helpful. I wondered about that.
@@gregb1599 Of course the hub motor relieves the chain of carrying the toque of the motor. It might be the way to go for the more powerful units...
have been following this guide with a conversion; 1) the crank was so stuck (ten year old bike) that said crank puller couldn’t. 2) the bike had older style (very comfortable) handle bars that were too wide for Throttle switch - I had to strip handle bar back. But realised I’d have to replace it. 3) new chain- good trip. I had thought my 6 month old chain would suffice but no. 4) I’m convinced you loosen things before demonstrating in video.
The bike is a family heirloom; my oldest sons first racing bike, my sweet middle sons means to get to work and then mine to get about when I didn’t want to use the good like
So it is sentimental project to create a new use for this bike
I will get it working yet
I didn't know e-bike conversion kits came in such a slick package, and I like how it mounts right into the bottom bracket. I was thinking of figuring out how to adapt a balance board motor to my bike, but this is probably a better idea. Good video, thanks for the review.
Tks great review
I have the 1000w version for the last 6 months or so and it is a fantastic kit. These motors have been around a good amount of years and are very solid. Parts are available also.
Is there a big price difference. 🇬🇧👍❓
how fast difference?
Does the battery get affected when it rains?
@muddy farmer No I wrapped the battery pack in tape and all connectors I put electrical tape on and ridden it in the rain lots. But obviously water vs electricity no good but if you do some things like I did no issues for me.
@@therodenthitman And where did you purchase your motor from?
I have the 1500wat version of that motor and in 4 years it just keeps on trucking, that was the best installation video I've seen and I've watched a few
I fitted 250w (legal maximum here in the UK) kits to our two hybrid bikes along with 36v 17ah batteries, not concerned with top speed, though both capable of over 20mph, just wanted to get up hills and travel further 😊, with a range of over 50 miles at gentle speeds, we are very pleased with our Bafang Kits, highly recommended.👍
Out of interest, where did you buy your kit from?
I'm gonna fit a 1000w, UK too. Anything's legal as lomg as you dont get caught, which wont happen because it's gonna still look like a bike.
@@howard6433 good idea
No disrespect intended, but that law is asinine. Is the public actually in favor of it?
@@whatsit2ya247 nope.
I watched a ton of videos showing the assembly. I finally bought a bike and the kit and using your video in steps as I assemble the bike. Your video keeps a nice pace.
Which bike did you go for? I can't choose!
I fitted a Bafang mid-drive 750w kit to by bike a couple of years ago & regularly ride up to 80km no problem. Same kit & battery as the video.
You got me in bro. Totally my new thing imma start doing . I’m a single tax paying bloke who’s epileptic - this has helped me and my deaf wife who can’t hear at all in ways you couldn’t fathom. Thank you for uploading and making this as easy as could ever be :) imma get mine going here soon and hopefully go see my wife who’s staying and working at her cousins. This will also help me gain more meaningful emplyment and is a game changer
I'm on my second bafang mid drive bbs02 motor after changing the first one after 5 years. Nothing but praise for these motors, never let me down. You can buy a new bike and fit a motor for about half the price of bought ebike, and have better performance .
Well done bafang
So true! I have upgraded a few bikes with bafang motors and they have been great. I got many years of use from them. A couple of times I had to replace the batteries after years of use, but not the motors. A comfortable bike + bafang + internal hub + big chain will be a dependable transportation with little maintenance required.
From Denmark: Thx a lot for this complete and very informative video and congratulations/all the best to the All Blacks Black Ferns for their team sprit and achievements. I used to play Rugby 7 and 15 when I was younger (I am 80 years old now) and still long distance Biking/Triking with NO EL ASSIST and with 65 kg gear and my 112 kg personal weight to carry. Last year I was on a 2.886 Km trip, which took me from Ebeltoft, Denmark to Frederikshavn, Ferry to Gothenburg Sweden and cross over Sweden to Stockholm, Ferry to Turku, Finland, Triking to Helsinki (6 weeks stay in Finland) , Ferry back to Stockholm (2 weeks stay there), Triking along the East Coast , With visit to the Island of Gotland, to Ystad, Ferry to the Danish Island of Bornholm. 2 weeks stay there, Ferry 2 Køge (38 km south of Copenhagen, East Coast of Denmark) and further South-West to the Island of Ærø and back to Ebeltoft.
I am thinking of a Trip to Turkey over Austria (the Alps Mountains...). So, I am thinking about EL converting my ICE SPRINT FS Trike and having a solar panel rig mounted above my ZIFLEX Mono wheel Trailer (Similar to the Burley COHO XC trailer) . Your wonderful video comes in handy. 🙏
I've just fitted this kit to my 2021 orange crush, I had to modify the battery case as its tight in the frame and fitted a motor stabiliser bracket as it kept coming loose. I've managed 30 miles to a charge, it's a great kit, very happy.
I appreciate the information. How is this kit for wet weather? I live in Ireland!
Kit arrived, kit fitted without reading any instructions. Your video is great. Love the kit, bike is crazy fast. Love it.
Have had two mountain bikes converted with Bafang 500 watt systems. Chickened out an paid a shop to do it, for about 1800$US parts and labor. The 500 watt motor was quite adequate for a heavy person on moderate hills, it would get pretty hot going uphil but never cutout on me due to overheating, unlike the hub motor ebike I had before. The 500 watt motor is powerful enough to pull the chain hard enough to skip cogs on the rear cassette when starting at low speed, so it would seem that most regular bikes chain systems cant handle much more than 500 watts, or you have to be careful. The Bafang system I had only used wheel speed sensing, so setting #1 is like 5mph, #2 is like 7mph etc, it was kind of an unnatural pedalling feel as it had no torque sensor. The Bosch systems feel a lot better and have a more natural pedaling feel.
was that $1800 for two systems and labour for two bikes?
Camera work on the assembly section is very good. A good mix of an amateur cyclist and good handyman/ mechanic
I put the 1000w with a 52v 19.2ah shark battery on a 2015 specialized rockhopper. It pulls me around 32mph without any pedal assist. Top speed ive seen with pedaling is about 36mph. The range is still great (20miles) i push it really hard and its extremely cold where im at right now. With better conditions i could probably get closer to 50/60 miles on a charge. I also did a little but winterization. Ive been caught in the rain a few times and ride through snow and slush without much worry.
I was going 44 today on a downhill fastest ive ever gone on a bike.
If I may ask, does rain give any sort of unwanted problem to the Ebike?
Thanks. My first ebike assembly - taking me more than 3 hours but I’m getting there with your assistance.
I’m impressed. I will buy this kit, because of seeing you ride your bike at a good clip. I’m a hefty fella too. And, want to make sure this motor will do what I need it to do. Thanks for an excellent installation tutorial!!!
2 years later… how is it?
I did a build 4 years ago with this kit I really didn't like the torque forces put through a thin derailleur chain and rear derailleur so built mine with a NuVinchi N360 variable gear hub.
Despite NuVinchi not recommending pairing a N360 to a 750w Banfang it works fine, and being a CVT gearbox gives smooth seemless acceleration with no jolts jarring or need to back off the throttle.
If anyone is thinking of going with hub gears an Alcedoitalia dished chain ring gives a better chain line the teeth are moved in 5mm and with a thicker hub gear chain it is a more reliable set up.
As someone who started out with a Hub motor (Motor in rear wheel axle) I can say I have had many issues and noticed alot of flaws, and from what I have seen from professionals and riders Mid motor seems the way to go. Heck if a Dirt bike and Motor Cycle has been that way been doing it for decades it cant be wrong.
7 years front hub motor bike, never had any problems. Its perfect. No flaws
@@DedoTi stop the cap
harder to do maintenance on hub motor since its attached to the wheel. also if you need to replace the motor then you have to buy the whole wheel since its all one unit. also hubs suck for hills and all the weight sits in the back of the bike (if you dont have suspension seat or rear suspension then your ass is gonna hurt, also your rear wheel is gonna take a lot of damage, youre wheel is going to go out of true all the time)@@DedoTi
I´ve been using my Bafang for a couple of years now, and like it a lot.
There were problems to overcome .......
First it would not slide fully in to the bottom bracket, it fouled on the chainstay, and I had to return the frame to the dealer for some fancy welding.
That was sorted vey well, and not too expensive.
I found the automatic pedal assistance could be dangerous where pedestrians or unfenced mountain roads were concerned, depending which gear the bike was in it could surge forward when I wanted to creep.
I dismantled the motor, (quite straightforward) and cut the appropriate wire to disconnect the auto function and reassembled.
To my dismay, the motor was dead.
Opening it up again, I tested all the connections and found that a white connector had not been fully connected, I pushed it in, it clicked, and all was then well. My ministrations had been the final thing to break the connection.
After a while, the thumb throttle broke, due to being flimsy plastic, and I had to fix up another one. This took a few attempts, and on a couple of occasions the return spring failed with results that are only amusing in retrospect.
I´m on solar power here in Spain, and need two batteries so I can ride while the sun shines and charge the other battery during the day.
I´ve no regrets about buying Bafang, living in the mountains it´s a real gas to flash past the professional Lycra-clad locals as they puff and pant.
One thing I would emphasise, is that putting my 1Kw motor on a bike without disc brakes would be about the daftest thing anyone could do.
Great writeup. Love your humor and had a giggle. Good on you M8.
Disks on my bike are working VERY hard now. Speed is deceptive until you hit the brakes!
Very clear and straightforward description. Can't say yet whether I'm game to do an installation myself but was impressed with his description of the kit, its design and performance.
Great video. We're currently working with Bafang on behalf of a UK buyer and this was very helpful for understanding the product.
The Bafang people handled all my inquiry questions incredibly well. The answers were swift, clear and answered my questions. No side stepping. I ordered it and to convert my commuter 8 speed internal hub bike to an e-bike. The mid drive gives me 8 internal speeds. I have assembled and test ridden e-bikes where I work but I had never done a conversion before. I did everything slowing, carefully and correctly as per the Bafang. I got it all together and did my test ride. It was amazing! It took a little bit of practice to understand the details. Its was easy to learn and it gets me around with virtually no 'work' on my part. I have to spin the pedals unless I use the throttle. When turning the cranks I don't feel that I am adding any power to my motion. My conversion is better than the e-bikes I test rode before I bought this Bafang kit (sell those bikes I test rode). When I turn off the Bafang, my bike rides like it used to but a little slower up hill with the added weight. No motor drag. Even when is 90+ degrees, I get to work with no sweat from the ride. I like this because I 'recycled' my commuter bike instead of replacing it! I will share all the benefits of an e-bike from my personal experience with my customers...I will leave out which system I use. I give it 6 stars on a 5 star scale.
Hi, Where did you buy your kit? Thanks
I recently completed converting my Trek 3700 using this kit. I love it. As you mentioned there is no noticeable drag when it's powered off- I still do quite a bit of manual riding
Hi
I've been driving such a kit for 3 years (replaced the battery after 2) and I'm quite happy with it.)
Sneakily ride this in the uk get a 250 watt sticker with 48 volts and modify the battery witg 52volts for increased power anyone who looks start clown pedaling lok
Hi mate, did you record your total mileage up until you changed your battery by any chance? Also, what do you use your bike for, city commutes, off-road, mountain biking?
I had my Trek 7.3 hybrid converted with the Bafang rear hub kit, (36v battery,) late last year. I've only clocked up about 600 miles so far, but am interested to know the lifespan of the battery for different cyclists.
I use my bike to commute to work in London, do my shopping and for leisure. I never go offroad or hit trails etc., but I love the conversion and the best bit is cruising up hills that I would be struggling to do as I get older. Cheers!
@@najdaraj9420 about 2 years with 16km 5 days a week. Battery was a 48v 10ah IIRC
@@pugofstardock ok, cheers for that. Quite similar to what I do on an average week.
@@najdaraj9420 I had on of these conversion kit installed on my bike and I can tell you: they are build like tanks!. The bike actually gave up before en bafang system which only failed once when the battery switch actually got into flames (I thought it was the battery so I sent it back to the dealer for refurbishment, I only niticed that the power switch melted down while dismantling the battery). To answer your question, my first 14Ah battery kept on working for 9000 km, the second one (17Ah) survived the bike which ended up in a scrapyard at 20000km... Actualy I s'till have it today, and I need to take it to the recycling park. Today I'm still convinces that the refurbishment of the battery wasn't needed. You can easily drive over 10000km with that kind of battery with no noticeable performance or range reduction. Very good system for that price.
I had a Bafang front wheel kit for my trike. I loved the plug sockets so if you had to remove the wheel for some reason you could disconnect it. What I didn't like is it had so much torque if you throttled it too heavy from a stop it would just twist and round out the fork mounts. Wasn't till after I sheered them out I found out about aftermarket torque arms.
Good tip. Thanks.
I have this model it's excellent will hit over 30mph cruises easily about 20 with level 3 of 9 pedal assist and with the right gearing could climb any hill.
And mines came with some handy stickers saying it's only 250w 36v to keep it legal 😉
Where from please
How did you get it to 30? From where?
Class 2 wink 😜
It's crazy how many class 2 e-bikes there are....
Dave mate do you have a link mate ??
We had this exact kit installed on our Trek crossovers and we LOVE it. We live in Canada.
Thank you very much for the best conversion kit explanation you did a really good job , I am in E-bikes for three years and I love it but soon I will build something where I can take my dog with me in a side car , this will be fun.
This video is so much better than the official bafang tutorial. Thanks!
Thank you for your brilliant display, of assembly, result, & giving direct information for all the parts needed.
I went to order the kit through your link, which gave me a price of about $1500 (130 delivery) aud. So, of course, I did due diligence and checked prices in other locations. Ebay ended up being the best value for the same gear... I got a significant discount for some reason... and the whole cost with delivery included ended up being $1100 aud - $400 cheaper, or about 70% the cost. Just thought I'd let you and everyone know. I would like you to get a bit of a kickback, but they need to be competitive. Also, thanks heaps for your great video - it's awesomely presented aswell as very informative!
I tried adding the link... it seems to have disappeared...
Added the link a 2nd time, and it disappeared again... so I guess you are all going to have to search it out yourself on ebay or temu or Amazon...
Nice video. I bought/installed similar kit, my battery is 48v11.6a, kit cost ~$900USD. So, free would have been much better. :) Been riding it about 4 months. Very happy with it, provides me more inducement to explore places uphill. Battery takes ~twice/thrice/4-times as long to charge as it takes to discharge. On flats with battery off there is a drag on the drive train. Nonetheless I am very happy with it.
You mentioned "drag on the drive train" while the battery is off. Does that mean there is drag with no pedal assist in action and gliding over the flats?
you couldve got a 52v 25ah battery (samsung cells) for $500 and the bbs02 750w mid drive kit for $400
Update: locked bike stolen in front of East Portland grocery. Building new bike. Keeping with smaller battery since I find most trips are
@@markjones7130I only notice a little drag when pedaling, not coasting.
@@terrycruise-zd5twI prefer a smaller lightweight battery. I do not go on expeditions over 20 miles.
I just purchased one for the same bike. I changed my tires to gravel/ road tires already which will help with speed even more.
Great video! Very good tutorial for a completely unskilled novice like myself.
I cant decide if I'm going to mid drive or rear hub yet, but this video has given the confidence to go ahead build one regardless.
Thank you!
Advantage of rear hub is you can get home if the chain break's!!
@@benpar8120 did not even think about that im going rear now thanks
@@ginahardee4891While true, you can repair a chain in less than 5 minutes if you just carry a few links and the tool. Simply remove the broken link, add another one, then screw it back in. Done.
Watched quite a few vids. This was by far the most down to earth and straight forward. Thank you.
Real good Intro, perhaps the best basic one out there.
The Battery is like the coffee grinder, the unsexy, unsung core of the whole brew.
ua-cam.com/video/23aAmlfQO3w/v-deo.html
The problem is, that is how they are going to rip you off. If the cheap battery catches on fire and burns your house down, there's nobody to sue because it is a Chinese company.
Don't charge in the house.
@@davidgillen777 Generally good idea. Just always think fire safety. Surfaces, flammables, exit strategy. Consider using the oven as a safe box, but you wanna be able to get things out side if there is an issue. Happens infrequently, but often enough.
@@whazzat8015 If you have a detached garage or something, that is a very good idea.
Yes, if I had a large no-name battery, it would be stored in something fireproof. A 400 watt hour lithium battery is storing 1.44 megajoules. That's just the energy storage. The material itself (when fully discharged) has a lot of energy too. They are VERY difficult to put out, so I am told.
Thanks Schematix! I just finished my build and kept on referring to this video. My issues were (1) I had a pressfit bottom bracket and had to by an adaptor and spacers, (2) I purchased the rack mount battery so that my top and down tube were clear. My dropouts here not flush so I had to hacksaw and file some steal plates as an adopter to fit the rear rack. However, this video was a great reference that I had a repeat. Thanks again!
A great video. Clear and concise directions. One of the best installation videos. Thanks.
Your explanation was so clear and concise I think you should be a teacher. Thank you for your tutorial.
Stumbled on this by accident and have to say very good review and I love your honesty! New sub although not sure what all you cover but this peaked my interest! Have a fantastic day everyone
I have a similar kit and I love it. i am hooked on ebikes now.
I used A regular bike that had one simple 6speed rear hub. And bafang 750w. Then made a battery pack of 40amps.
It worked excellent and much cleaner operation unlike MTB with multiply cogs.
The brake handle also worked as clutch between gear changes. Ment no extra wear.
theres an actual sensor you can get that goes on the derailleur cable you can get that will do the "clutching" for you so you dont need to hit the brakes
Thank you for taking time to film and post. This really helps me understand what I may need to prepare myself for. Greetings from Switzerland.
I would love a update video! Looks like a great bit of kit though. I also like the enclosed style and the only downside I can see is that where I am only 250W is allowed. Though I must say that the ones I've tried do help quite a bit. Makes me think that all that wattage you have available is only ever being used for starting and slowly ascending hills. Great video (As per usual for you ;-)
Awesome! Thanks! Update please? Has the frame/chain held up to the extra power? Is it still capable on single track or anything more technical? All the electrical components still working?
Kit comes with 250w sticker! Naughty.
Where are you Klaus? Those are some pretty out of date restrictions! Here in the UK the law's a mess on e-bikes. There's 1985 legislation that limits them to 250w/12v, but this only applies if you register it with DVLA, and there's no requirement to, so nobody does. We were adopting the EU legislation, but it was never ratified into UK law, then we left the EU, so it never will be. The police have enough laws to deal with anyone being wreckless or posing a danger on the road, so if someone builds a monster, and hasn't set a sensible cutoff speed they declare it an offroad e-bike, and if they catch you on the road with it again they'll charge you with something and confiscate it.
I have run a 1000w front hub motor set to 32kmh (20mph) for many years. I behave in traffic and try not to show off or surprise motorists at junctions, and I've never had any problems. Police usually have more important stuff to deal with.
@@petersimpson633 that's funny that. Might look at getting the 1000w hopefully I get a sticker with that
@@JoesWebPresence I guess the SOB's will never be happy!!
First they outlaw most gas powered bikes/dirt bikes, say their too noisy, pollution, bla, bla, bla! 😭🙄
Then they outlaw e bikes, it's all about their power over you, nothing else!
Remember the power we gave these a-holes during the "pandemic" and the lies and B.S. aren't slowing down.
Maybe someday we'll take back our countries from these morons?
I followed this video closely too, but had the same issue as Kerry below, in that the motor unit fouled the chain stay. I needed a 5mm crank spacer, easily obtained from the local bike shop - thanks "Around Again Cycles", who also removed the crank for me. Fortunately, my crank housing was 68mm, but it did mean the left side motor locking plate was not flush with the motor (5mm difference ) and the supplied bolts would not reach. I had to use longer bolts and a series of washers to ensure a good fit. After that it was pretty straight forward. My motor kit did not have sensors for the brake leavers and I ended up with a spare cable on the wiring loom. Thanks again for your efforts.
The only thing worrying about the motor placement, is the strong likelihood you'd smash it on some technical trails due to the reduced BB clearance.
you can buy aluminium sump guards if you are rough riding
If you are going on technical trails I recommend you buy a bafang ultra, it needs to be fitted into a frame (you can also just buy a bunch of really good Chinese frames with bafang ultra slots on the bottom ready to allow it to be cleanly installed.) Bafang Ultras are stronger and quite indestructible even on rough trails which is why a lot of top dollar eMTBs actually use them in their designs .
Hi mate very much enjoyed.. I have the same Bafang BBS02B 750W A quick note you can cut and join the main wire from the display about 5 or 7 wires that need to be rejoined individually but easy to do. For a nice looking wiring job and a gear changing sensor is a big help..Happy trails
Thank you, a interesting and informative video, one of the things that I would be concerned about, would be the waterproofing of the various electrical connections, I realise that mudguards can be fitted, however, here in the U.K. it rains a lot, and the connectors need to be waterproof.
With low(ish) voltage DC you don't need to worry about waterproofing as much
Sorry mate you aint allowed to get one over 250Watts on your push bike in the fucked up UK
These are great kits and very reliable i have one and road it for 4 years with no trouble at all.
Thank you for giving us a real world test on the electric bike. Good day and Peace too.
Thanks very much! Very helpful... and I never felt like I was watching an ad. I'm tempted to buy an e-bike... but now I'm feeling I might try this project. Thank you so much!
Well done! Basic and straight forward... I imagine you would recommend That you put the kit on a bike that has at least front suspension and really good brakes, because you will need them...
Thanks for the helpful video, just put my kit together today and took it for a spin, absolute fun. Enjoy the day
Good review thanks. I have done this conversion and it is very easy with the right tools. Range?, my backside has had enough long before the battery runs out.
Outstanding video! Thank you for the work putting that together! I'm not as mechanically inclined as yourself, but you instill confidence in people like me. I'm going for it! Mahalo and Aloha!
Thank you so much, I am in the process of doing this , great conversion , great video 👍
Hi mate, thanks for the film, great work. I’m the same height and weight and really appreciate your honesty in the verdict. Safe travels.
I appreciate you doing a breakdown of the battery watts. Great video 📹
Nice informative vid. Link to the kit reveals the price tag equivalent to buying a ("cheap") factory made E-bike. Perhaps the performance level makes the difference worth it.
Thank you for this well-made, informative and honest video.
Already 4160km on mine and still going. 50-60kmph no problem😉👊
One thing i would suggest is make sure you use a new cassette and chain when fitting the kit to avoid chain skipping problems.
Do you know the brand of this battery? Can't believe he it out of an otherwise excellent video.
@@gosttunter No idea what brand it is , but looks to me just like the ones you see everyday on Ebay they probably all made in the same factory somewhere in China just with different labels
@@skunksrus007 lol.... Yes they do.... On the outside .... I got one with Samsung cells.
@@gosttunter get it better from aliexpress from the orignal seller or sellers that have realy good reviews they mostly are honest with the power and stuff infos bafang olso has his own store theres probably some kits there too im not sure if it ships to us tho but u can take a look
Really like your video. As a six foot ex-tight head prop, I appreciate your noting how well it worked out for your. Very clear details. I would start to order if I had any clue about how to size my bottom bracket. I do a variety of riding and want/need a flexible assist. I am also using my Yak trailer for a 35-40 km round trip to the store at the lake.
Thanks again.
Yes, please do follow up on it, of course.
just finished my 2nd build, bafang is clearly best deal
After hearing about other people talking abut how their alloy bikes snapped in various places I decided too stay with the STEEL FRAME BICYCLES for peace of mind... cheers
bro what, alloy doesnt snap, it bends, steel also bends, the only material that can "snap" is carbon, and if you get good quality carbon, then you will never have it snap or break on you. unless you ride absolutely massive jumps and case all of them.
best ever !!! please do scooters . you are amazing !! no other dorks on youtube does such an indepth . I watch a whole lotta tech, and reviews , and this is by far the very best !!!!
best comprehensive DIY video!
good unit. I just installed one for a friend and he is having a great time with it!
Very nice job and a great video thank you for sharing your experience
3 years later this video is still useful
Lovely review and tutorial. I felt you kind of dodged the range question a little too much: some of your viewers might be looking at these kits for commuting purposes, and for them this question is important even if you can't guarantee an accurate range. Perhaps you could say "With this bike on these tyres with my weight and riding style, I got 40km" (or 60 or whatever)
Anyways thanks for the great review!
As for removing the bottom bracket, most local bike shops will do it for less than the cost of the special tool. Of course you may want to return the bike to analog at some point and need the tool anyway.
Got to say the control box being out of the motor isn't a bad thing. Yeah it's going to be 'one' extra thing hanging on the frame somewhere but once it's on, it's on. Learned an important thing though, lithium batteries DON'T take jars and bumps of the road too well. Second note is unless it is LOCKED onto the frame, it's a quick 'stolen item'. I got around the problem by putting my lithium set in a simple and small backpack. What's six to seven pounds to carry yourself? Also your body is going to make the BEST shock absorber versus the bike's frame. Other 'small' annoyance is you'll have to hook and unhook the battery whenever you leave the bike. 'Small' annoyance given how expensive lithium battery packs are. Front wheel mounted e-bike motors are not bad either BUT you should to must buy some reinforcement to lock the wheel in. Front bike mounting was NEVER designed for torque. Don't matter how tight you tighten it, once the torque of the motor forces the axel to twist, that front wheel is going to break loose. But the reinforcement kits are actually fairly cheap compared to the entire project. Second thing ALL batteries are sensitive to is very cold weather. Leaving batteries outside in freezing weather seriously shortens their life. Lithium packs are easily connected and disconnect and when not in use, take them inside at home or work. Learned this lesson the hard way with my four twelve volt lead batteries. Half the Amp hours and better than four times heavier. When your lugging almost fifty pounds of batteries, that is NOT a quick and easy connect and disconnect. Fifty pounds of batteries take a lot of careful strapping to a frame because you definitely do NOT want fifty pounds on a bike EVER shifting. Learned that with a heavy duty rack bolted on. Just a ever slight wiggle anyways... you definitely feel it throw off the bike's center of gravity. Next bike had a WELDED RACK! Made a world of difference. Anyways when something has play, you definitely know it's slowly loosening itself. Well I'm going to point out the one shortfall the system you installed does have. Only one of know of granted. Don't be surprised if you bike chain snaps. It was designed with human limitations in mind and that motor can and will put a lot more stress on it that you can. Remember saying you can go a nice clip up a hill? Can most people do that? Remember when you are going faster than most people can do on their own, you are stressing that bike chain that much more. Nicely, that's the only flaw I really see with that system. Actually that is the very real flaw of ALL e-bike kits. General rule, don't push the bikes much past the speeds they were designed for. Anyways this time I'm skipping an e-bike and going for e-trike. Starting to get too heavy myself for e-bikes and can use the basket on trikes for important things like grocery shopping, doing laundry at a laundry matt. Course I do know the drawback with trikes, MUCH less stable at high speeds! So have another reason to slow it down. Especially with the single wheel at the front of the bike. But I'm not going for speed but for ease for them 10 mile round trips from places I need to go. Anyways slower also means better mileage. Its acceleration that eats the majority of all batteries. Well, that is my two bits, all learned the hard way. These people who want to go 25mph plus on their bikes? I think they are just a little nuts because anything over twenty can easily kill you on a BAD spill. Should know and got the scar my head, two cracked ribs, punctured lung, broken collar bone and broken sternum. Hit the shoulder of the road over a dark patch. Doing 20 was the biggest mistake. Was running late for work and in trying to save time, never made it. If I wouldn't of been found and taken to a hospital I would of died as my lung filled up with blood and I already have breathing problems. Ex-smoker who did 25 years of damage to my lungs. Haven't smoked in six but the damage is STILL there. So people who want to go FAST on their bikes, don't be surprised if it leads to a quick way to die. You only NEED to be UNLUCKY ONCE. I just hope someone new to this type of project reads this and gives pause to what I'm saying because e-bikes are an awesome and cheap mode of transportation BUT only if your smart about it. I've learned my lessons the hard way. Mom asked how could I go back? I simply said if you get in a car accident, does that mean you'll never drive again? Sometimes you have to work with what you can afford. Especially when you live on your own and your job... isn't that great a paying one either. Anyways e-bike are super fun to ride! Get to enjoy the ride without wearing yourself out, well, until the batteries die! LOL
i want to do more than 25mph.....i'm looking for those 40+ de-restricted conversions, i have a UNICYCLE as i feel having one wheel is faster than two, theres someone that said he can do the conversion but will have to carry battery in backpack (like you suggested) wish me luck!!
@@Mark_106 You are right about one wheel being faster than two. Each contact a wheel has to the ground is more friction which generally slows you down more and two? Only one wheel? There's also going to be a lot less frame which also means your are working with a much lighter frame but are you SURE you want to push forty plus?!? How about set the limit at ten and get comfortable with it and bump it up in 5 mph increments? I'm pretty sure once you hit 20 plus you are personally going to start to fell how dangerous the speed is but at least learn how to deal with it in smaller steps!
I'm NOT going to wish you luck... I'm going to wish you LIVE THREW IT! The faster you go, the riskier it becomes and go fast enough? It's a question of when not if you get into a serious accident. The problem with real speed? One you have less time to react to surprises and two? Anything as simple as loose gravel or dirt on a slight turn? Don't be surprised if you keep going almost straight as you start skidding. I've dealt with that with a motorcycle that has TWO points of contact to the ground and MUCH heavier. What do you think will happen with you one point of contact but much lighter going the same speed? Least with a motorcycle you CAN skid, not recommended but you can. Unicycle? I have YET to see that.
But I do wish you the best of luck just the same but on the same note using my common sense, you will eventually wipe out and the faster you go? The less likely you are going to survive it. Save the speed for straightaways. Any other way is a death wish and don't forget, even on straightaways people WILL walk or drive leading to you getting cut off. On that note YOU are definitely screwed and the person that didn't notice you? Walking? Probably just as dead. Driving? Much better off. It's common sense.
You DO need to realize one other thing too, people walking and using a cross walk ARE NOT expecting a person riding a wheel to be doing 40 plus. So even seeing you at a glance will start crossing anyways. You might call them IDIOTS with your dying breath but seriously? How many people riding a unicycle are seen tearing down the road doing 40 plus?
Risking your life is one thing but risking others? I'm going to put it simple, you ARE doing a dangerous build and you BETTER have ALOT of common sense to go with it.
I have one exact motor and have ridden with it for about 8 month now.
Range: with my fully changed 52V 20Ah battery to 90% and on a flat road with only very minor up and downs, and discharged down to max 3.6V per cell (its a 14S8P battery) and I only use the throttle all the time, and no head wind or anything like that I get around 20km, if I draw it to 3.4V I can surely get out 10 km more and If i draw it down to 3V per cell most likely 5km more. But I go for life for the battery, if I want distance I also pedal which is the normal I do.
Recently I charged to 90% as usual as max and took a tour at level 6 assistans of 9 with normal pedaling get you up to 36kmh with very normal pedaling, which is a nice speed. I pedal like that for 40km but after that the battery was only down to 3.6v per cell anyway.
Have bought (before the battery price went up like crazy) 2 more 52 cell batteries with a combined capacity close to the bigger one. With all those connected together that means that I can go full throttle all the time for over 40km. If I also pedal at 36kmh all the time then double that.
This a good review on the installation of this very popular kit, and I look forward to your follow up in a few months time.
Wanta see what 1 can do .. ? Got one on my channel
That’s a nice kit! Mid-drive is the way to go.
Nice honest review on initial fitting and performance, impressed with the bottom bracket fitting.
Thanks for sharing and happy trails.
2 years later any issues with the battery?
Mine is close to 3 years old. Everything works the same as the day I bought it
I guess it's going to depend on how many charge cycles the battery has on it.
@@jimlahey3919whats the top speed?
@@jaribilesh8492 I heard 40mph
@@jaribilesh8492 mine does 24mph or 40kph if you do metric that is what the firmware is maxed to. Using a 42 tooth chainring 11/36tooth cassette. 15:35
That was brilliant, I was considering converting one of my full suspension K2's, I've since bought Giant Talon hardtail ebike but now I'll probably still go ahead and convert one of the K2's
I’m working on switching my cruiser to electric & your video was extremely helpful! Thank you
Let us know how you get on in a few months.
I think that is most awesome how you had a transcript and even the fact sheet from the batteries so we can go right to that supplier and purchase the kit know why we're purchasing it. I too I'm going to choose the 750 but thank as you did even if I opted for the 1kwatt the 750 goes up and over so I spend extra money better spent on that 52 volt battery rather than a 48. Yep great directions information and explanation the instructions spot on which reminds me I'm ready for some tea. Cheerio
Excellent instructional video - many thanks. I always say when I need an electric bike I'll give up riding. However at 72 and lately loosing my wind considerably - maybe....just maybe.
What weight does this add to the bike as my Carrera subway is 19 kilos with 8 speed hub & dyna front hub plus self at 100 kilos.
Thanks again, Best from the UK.
5.5 kg
what is 70kph in mph? and how much does it cost in dollars, not pounds
One thing that people have completely missed is it’s not about just going and buying a conversion kit - because you can with absolutely no legal checks online. Depending on your country fitting a whopping great big 750w motor puts you into license plate, moped territory. Which you can’t do if you wanted to, for obvious reasons. (Like you can’t register a pedal bike as a moped and fitting number plate, wearing a certified crash helmet on the road and indicators or having brakes and -most importantly, tyres speed rated to match the faster road.
It’s not illegal to own an e-bike with a power output exceeding 250 Watts, or where the electrical assistance doesn’t cut off at 25kph. However, it is illegal to ride it as you would a standard bike (without it being registered and insured like a moped), on a public highway - this includes both roads and off-road rights of way such as bridleways and byways. E-bikes that do not conform to regulations can only be ridden on private land where the public doesn’t have access, with the permission of the landowner. U.K. fir eg
Excellent video! Great lighting and angles! Described and expained perfectly. Thank you!
Another solid build six feet tall gentleman here, I appreciated your conclusions :D
Amazing video! I was looking for an installation with details. So this is satisfactory!! Thanks, pls keep doing this
Thankyou so much I have just bought a kit and your demonstration was excellent. I fell confident I can fit it.
Very good video amigo. Thanks for the instructive show! I was wondering if you have the choice of NOT installing the throttle button.
Cheers!
Really great installation video -- with all bases covered nicely. Thanks for that.
And yes -- I would like to see a follow-up video, as you mentioned.
Cheers