Is This Really NECESSARY??? 4x4 Swap Begins
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- Опубліковано 30 вер 2024
- Its BIG support if you go get some MERCH! rudysadventure...
It’s time for the 2wd Comanche to be converted into four-wheel-drive. I’m getting the donor axles from a 1996 jeep Cherokee that does not start. Although these are small axles it will make a huge difference in the off-road capabilities.
We first pull the axles out of the donor jeep, and then we pull the axles out of the Comanche. and I still haven’t fixed the door…
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The rear brake proportioning valve is necessary on pickup trucks because when there is no weight in the bed the rear tires would be more prone to locking up during hard braking. That valve will give more brakes to the rear tires as the suspension gets more compressed. If you lift the rear you should also add an extension to the valve so it still operates properly.
I had a Datsun ute with the proportioning valve not functioning properly. Tokyo drift in the rain every time!
Also known as load sensor.
Exactly right. mine was missing on my 88. Got one or on it after an accident.
Can you just put a manual one in? On our RV its what they recommend.
What he said
It's so refreshing to see someone working old school, with a floor jack and jackstands! I never had a lift and really appreciate someone who works well without one. Love your channel! How about an update on your little brother's truck?
Painful to watch having no lift, then a lift, then no lift again.
@@UberLummox Then don't watch. Not everyone starts out by buying a 10K+ hoist. Rudy is still just getting started, and I am sure he will be bigger in the future. I enjoy his content, that is why I watch.
Check out Pine Hollow Diagnostics. He does repairs with no lift also.
I have access to a lift after helping a friend's father build his garage, and it's a complete life changer for the simple things. I still crawl on the ground to work on my own vehicles since I've always had a vehicle with a high wheelbase, but I also maintain my mother's car with a low wheelbase, and I love having enough space to see what I'm doing while changing her oil filter, or even just not being kneeling in the snow when I'm putting on her studded tires for the winter.
@@Bobbywolf64 Haha seriously??? It wasn't a complaint!!! And you can by a lift for FARRRR less than 10 grand, silly trumper.
I Always remember hearing Vice Grip Garage say, "make sure to leave the jack under the vehicle, makes it easier to lift the vehicle back off when the first responders show up", especially seeing you use Harbor Freight jack stands like the rest of us "budget builders". Lol
Some of H/Fs stuff is junk, but the jack stands are good. I have a few H/F tools, and if they ever fail, I will then replace them with a higher end tool. Case in point--------4.5" angle head grinder. The tool worked fine, but it fell off of the work bench and then broke in half when it hit the floor. Replaced it with 2 DeWalt. One has a cut-off wheel, (wheel of death), the other one has a flap wheel made by Tacoma fastener company. Beats H/F flap wheels hands down.
The other replaced H/F tool was a 14" cut-off chop saw. All of the factory installed smoke came out of it. Replaced it with a DeWalt 15 years ago. Works good to this day. I have only broken one socket, and I had a 3 foot cheater over a 24" breaker bar to do that. I will not blame the socket for that. All of the rest of my sockets work just as well as my Snap On sockets, even the impact wobble sockets.
I use to use 1/4" air grinders a lot in my job as a field mechanic for Cat. You could get them on sale for $12 a few years ago. The Snap On dealer one time asked me why I did not buy a Snap On 1/4" die grinder? He said that his air grinders could be rebuilt. I asked how much the rebuild kit cost? He replied with a smirk, "$20." I told him that I could get a whole new die grinder for $12 in sale. That pissed him off! LOL I had 4 of them just so I did not need to change the carbides so much.
With all of this civil revolt going on in China, the cheap H/F tools may come to an end. I was in a H/F store yesterday, and some of the prices have doubled.
@Rudys Adventure and Design BE SURE TO MOVE THE SPRING PERCHES! You mentioned mounting the XJ rear axle under the springs to lift so I wanted to mention you absolutely need to move the spring perches, the springs will sit down and bolt up on the XJ ones but they are about 1"-2" off and will bind like crazy. Many people have attempted it and it doesn't work. If you do lift in this way, after moving the perches, simply turn the lower shock mount/spring plates over and switch sides to bolt your springs on and maintain the shock mount, you can also continue to use the factory rear shocks by doing this.
Also as many have mentioned already that brake "thing" is a rear proportioning valve. As weight is loaded in the bed it will add brake pressure to the rear brakes and give you less brake pressure when empty to avoid locking up the rear tires. There is a small metal rod that bolts to the diff cover and that arm you were moving. I would recommend keeping this if you plan to haul stuff with it but be sure to test to make sure the valve is still working. I'd post the procedure here but it would be too long. You can also bypass it if you'd like but I would only recommend to do that if you swap it to disk brakes or add a manually adjustable valve somewhere, I'm definitely not practicing what I preach here though.
3rd, it seems you figured out how to release the spare tire but for others interested, there is a tube in the gap between the tailgate and the bumper you stick the factory tire iron into and turn it to release the tire. It's basically a winch mechanism, and if you aren't going to use it, there are definitely people who would want a working one. Really any MJ specific part is quite valuable and hard to find so don't throw any of it out even if its broken.
I'm sure you've already found it but find the Comanche Club forum online, plenty of good resources there and us Comanche guys are always sharing info and answering questions. Also a great place to buy and sell parts to other MJ owners.
P.S. Also be sure to use the XJ coil springs, the 4wd coil springs will sit the front end about 1" taller than the 2wd ones.
Thanks for saving me from having to type that, Dzimm!
I love the helpful knowledge Dakota 👍🏽 Good stuff!
This guy Comanches
Awesome input!
I think all the Comanche owners are watching this
Great video! Can't wait to see how this all goes. Watching all the other channels only see 1 ton swaps and such, so really looking forward to watching this one take place. I am assuming the Cherokee had a D30 front and a 8.25 rear which is what my '99 Cherokee has so am hoping to pick up some tips and tricks 😉. Always enjoy your video's so as always, can't wait for the next.
Not having all the right gizmos and gadgets and still getting it done............perfect. I love your show Rudy! 🤙
You need to send the "Blueberry" over to your dad so that he can put 1 tons under it and add it to the "Fruit Fleet" with the Banana and Tangerine.
The valve on the back is commonly called load-sensing or height sensing valve. It shifts braking bias backwards as the suspension squats, so as you add load to the rear it increases rear braking. The bar in the valve should roughly be in the 2 o'clock position at regular ride height, so you'll want to extend the rod that goes down to the axle after you lift it.
There's also a bypass for the valve that sends full brake pressure to the rear if you have a leak up front which takes an extra bleeding step. Open a front brake bleeder while you bleed the rear (to simulate a pressure failure) and then close the front bleeder, bleed the rear again and then fronts as you would any other vehicle.
Should we mention the difference in proportioning valves in the engine bay
"This (brake clip) was rusted on."
Those are fighting words in the rust belt states. When it comes off in one piece or comes off at all, that's not "rusted on".
Thanks for the video Rudy! You guys build cool stuff so Im lookin forward to the build. Good luck! Thanks to the editing department whomever that may be🐾
NGL, it hurt a little bit seeing that complete, rust free '96 XJ turn into donor.
I know what you mean, the blue jeep is not able to be titled though
@@Rudysadventureanddesignreal I will buy the passenger's side light bezel, blinker cover and fancy tach instrument cluster if you need to take some weight off of that sea land trailer. A deer modified mine....
@@Rudysadventureanddesignreal That makes perfect sense then. Carry on!
@@Rudysadventureanddesignreal what happened to it?
@Rudys Adventure and Design @ 14:10 that is probably a mechanical brake force adjuster - there are spring loaded valves inside that in normal condition are not all the way open and the flow of brake fluid is restricted. If there is heavier load at the back of the car the axle gets closer to the frame, the lever moves and pushes the valves so that the flow gets less restricted.
that thingy you don't know is a proportioning valve the more weight you have in the back the more rear brakes you get its to prevent constant locking up of the rear wheels when unloaded or at least thats what i was told
Hey Randy we have watched Matt for a while & when we saw you go out on your own I thought we would see how you do things & I must say I’m impressed. Your videos are not too long & spun out like many, you explain stuff without going overboard, you know when to fast forward repetitive tasks and your music isn’t crap. In a nutshell you are doing very well so keep up the good work & this New Zealander will certainly keep following you. 👍👏👏👏👏
Love the channel Rudy and that you are doing your own thing. One suggestion, my grandfather was a mechanic and I've now been working on cars and trucks for 50 years. He taught me to always put the tire I removed under the frame rail in case of jack or stand failure so I've been doing it ever since. Cheers!
That piece on the rear that you were questioning is most likely a brake proportioning valve. My Tacoma has one from the factory. When you lift the truck you will need to put a spacer of some sort to get the valve to work correctly. My lift had on in it from the kit factory, but since I’ve “modified” my lift I had to do the same to the spacer.
the name should be commander commanche
Fascinating that there was no difference between the front axles except from the moving parts ! I've never seen that. But there's close to none Comanches in my part of the world. European cars ... they always have to make something special and not interchangeable.
You should totally change the name of the Comanche from No Name to the ComRAD...
You need Trevor and Lizze.
If Mr. Roger's was a mechanic. Rudy's video have that same calming affect
Good work Rudy can't wait for the finished product. Loved your transport to the outside with the engine lift. Take it up Toquerville with flashbacks of the first trip with only two-wheel drive. I'm impressed with all the good help from your fans. I've done a lot of four wheeling in a two-wheel drive, but it's just a matter of time before the two-wheel drive gets ruined on a four-wheel drive trail. There is really no such thing as four-wheeling in a two-wheel drive.
My daughter and I both have lifted 2 wheel drive trucks, we don’t do any extreme off roading but they are fun just the same . Someday we will install winch’s and get a little more daring.
The brake thing in the back I believe is a type of brake bias deal. The weight in the back changes bias. If I remember correctly.
Hey Rudy, is the Rudicon still half done or 3/4 done?
Enjoying watching this series since I'll have a similar project soon! Curious to see what you do with that transfercase /trans combo
The more weight you have in the back it allows more braking force on the back axle
Lever is a brake proportioning valve. More weight in the rear end allows more brake fluid/force to the rear brakes. When empty less brake force to the rear brakes don't lock up.
MJ owners coming outta the woodwork! I love it!
Rudy, this is one heck of a DIY video; you're taking a lot of time (sort of) to like help a first timer. One. Haynes or Chilton? Two, you got to show the secret trick: 'hit the nearest hard thing first to skin a knuckle to save your knuckles from gouges later' part. At least that was my secret back in my day.
Here - Hard copy Chilton and Haynes online.
Won’t you need the transmission and transfer case as well out of the blue Jeep Cherokee or are you going to use something different?
That was my thought as well. Curious to see what direction he goes from here.
id need to use the entire drivetrain from the blue jeep to get the transmission to work proper, and at them moment its having computer issues
@@Rudysadventureanddesignreal So are you going to use a divorced tcase?
dont forget the transfercase and trans plus 4 x 4 linkge
That parts Cherokee sure looks nice
1WD was plenty...COME ON!
Hey Rudy, I was wondering why you didn't pull the transmission and transfer case out of the Cherokee while you had it in the shop?
the computer of the renix comanche wont talk to that year of transmission to get the right shift points.
That is a load adjusting proportioning valve. It adjusts the amount of fluid feeding the rear wheel cylinders depending on load in the bed.
They always quit working.
I was not aware the 2 wheel drive Jeeps from that age had a solid front axle. I learned something new today.
Yep, it's pretty much a direct swap with a driven front axle. Comanches and Cherokees are about the easiest 2x4 to 4x4 swap vehicles in existence.
Proportioning valve for the rear brake system will flow more or less fluid/pressure when loaded or unloaded
MJ is one of my favourites so it is great fun watching you rebuild and improve it. Thanks for the videos, Rudy.
The lavalier mic is awesome 🤜💥🤛
Yeah, but who is Larry? Did I miss it? Mystery man? Shop owner? Masterful improvisational skills with the engine hoist Rudy.
Hi.. rudy saludos desde tijuana b.c me gustan tus videos ....
Nice build so far and of course you already have the Comanche Tcase from under Matts bench🙃 Wonder how it would do in the Scottish mud???
Enjoying this build, even though I'm not a Jeep guy. The Cherokee looked pretty good, can we assume it may see a future build? I have a 2001 Ford Ranger 2wd I thought about possibly trying to install a Cherokee 4wd front axle and suspension in. Of course that will require a bit of fab work sooo.... I may reconsider that project lol. Keep up the good work, enjoying your channel!
Hope you can use some of the body structure to fix the driver door. Climbing out the window or passenger side will get old pretty fast. I think the little Comanche is a neat little truck. Fixing it up just a little bit will make it great. There's bound to be a ton of stuff you can do to it.
In taking out the axles you forgot to do something that I always do when I'm working with heavy parts. Mash my hand, really good. Mash it to the point that you need to edit the video. 🤕 That's always good for giving you perspective on why you need to watch where you put your hand. Take my word for it, you don't have to find out personally.
Notice the rear on the truck was over leaf and under leaf on the Cherokee. The reason? On the truck the rear leaf had to be stronger and that meant more arch back then for Jeep. If they had inder axled the pick up as they did with the Cherokee, the truck would have been about 4 inches higher in the back than front. If you see some trucks from other manufacturers they have an obvious rear height difference due to this very reason, but they don't have the issue Jeep did of roll over. Jeep needed to make sure the pick up was level and fairly low for a 4x4. This is also the reasoning behind the CJ being over axle. On the CJ the leafs were so short they had to have more arch in order to create enough spring surface so it would be tolerable for passengers. Shorter leaf surface steming from shorter leafs causes extreme harshness unless you reduce spring tension strength which result in a "Wallowing" feeling that signals instability.
Somethimes there is a pressure adjuster. The lever is atached to the shaft. More weight opens up an orivice giving more oil to the brakes. You lifted it and it nearly went backward. With no weight in the back the backtires will block easily.
Love Rudy’s videos dude is smart nothing’s ruined if he’s working on it.
funny joke
Way to go old schooling it. Just to show it can be done with floor jacks and jackstands.
It is a weight proportion valve itt gives more pressure to rear brakes when you have a load in the back of the truck
The rear brake valve, is a factory proportioning valve.. Toyota mini trucks used em too... Throw that away... Problem solved... The item you were concerned about is factory junk... JEEPs HAVE THE WORST FACTORY BRAKES.. I would not consider anything factory worth keeping, or incorporating back in...
I love this series of videos, I did a similar swap with my 88 Comanche. I put a ford 8.8 rear end though
Hell yes it is necessary!~
I built a rc Comanche & named it "REDSKIN." Got indian themed stickers on it & a custom Oklahoma license plate that reads (obviously) "REDSKIN."
That was a clever idea to use the forklift with the engine hoist in front to move it around. I guess your shop motto can be find a way or make one. 😉
I really appreciate how everything your video is about is complete in the single video. A lot of car channels do the whole cliffhanger thing and make it a 12 part series when it doesnt have to be. Keep up the great work man, really enjoying the vids.
If your looking for another comanche I have one for sale, long bed, Rusty's 6.5" up front, soa rear, dana44/30 axles, 4.0 4x4. For sale. Albuquerque NM.
One other thing...
Not sure if you're familiar with cj7 Jeeps but....
I have a 1976 cj7 jeep and need the rear drum brake lines but can't find them for my year... only newer cj7 jeeps.. But the screw locations are different.
Can I convert the rear drums to Disc (like I did the fronts) or find a good drum with line replacement? 🤔
Awesome Rudy!!!
4 wheel drive front and rear axles. CHECK.
Transfer case, OOOPPPSSS. A 4wd front end without the t case is still just 2 wheel drive. A side note from Captain Obvious . Ha
13:20 -- VERY BAD DECISION! The distance between the leaf spring perches is different on the Cherokee and the Comanche. If you just bolt a Cherokee rear axle under a Comanche without relocating the spring perches, you twist the rear springs and put the bushings under torsion load. Uncool. You need to spend more time on the Comanche Club forum.
Swapping in that Chrysler 8.25" axle and going to a spring-over is going to lift the rear of the truck about 6 inches above stock. Do you really want or need that much lift?
Rudy..I have a 1995 Toyota 4Runner 5spd Manual 4x4 that I want to trade for a automatic jeep Cherokee..I don't care what the body looks like..get ahold of me to see if you want to trade something
Cool. :D
It's always a good thing to change 2 wheel drive into 4 wheel drive, and moreover Jeep should always be 4 wheel drive to begin with, Jeep should just be another name for 4 wheel drive.......
Hey Rudy idk if you have a plan for the blueberry but something you can do is build it to be a recovery rig and surprise your dad with it
2004-2012 Canyons and Colorados had leaf spring under axle. Swap shackles for a little lift, or swap the axle under for a little more lift.
I'd love to build a Comanche. That's awesome Rudy
I like that you have the sound (mic) working better on your video today! Cheers
Don’t get mad but I’m calling you Professor Rudy going forward..The way you explained with detail, reminds me of my Engineering teacher 😎
Doing great Rudy!! Looking forward to seeing you get the axle swap done and going for a test drive!! 😁
Surprised you didn't use the Rudicons original axles. Banana, Tangerine, and Blueberry 😂, you guys and fruit.
How could you ruin it? The 2wd cherokee/comanche is literally a 4wd front end with no pumpkin or axles. The stock Cherokee stuff bolts right in.
I never understand why you guys always build a single cab. It is more fun to watch Matts off road recovery because he has multiple people in the cab. Stop building single cabs.
he can make a Subaru Baja style seating area in the bed for that.
Because crew cabs look stupid
Single cabs offer SO much more visibility.
Also, Matt’s heavy wrecker is a single cab, and IMO it’s his most exciting build yet.
That “ thingie “ is what prevents you from doing de-excellerating doughnuts when stomping on your brakes…..sir. 😉
Damn it looks like you should have just fixed the "Blueberry" It looks like better shape, but guessing you wanted the pickup bed.
Larry has appeared in a few of your videos but I don't believe you have ever introduced him to us. It would be nice to meet him. 🙂
I believe you're going to want the rear springs from the XJ to put under the MJ so your alignment pin is on the bottom of the spring to make life easier on you all...we had to do what you all are doing on an 85 & that's what we wound up doing + then all's you have to do is buy a pair of 3" front springs or use the front springs from a ZJ (mid 80s- 90s Grand Cherokee) to obtain the 3" lift needed to level it out.... Can't wait to see what you all wind up doing with it 🤠👍
So it would have been cool if you took the axles from a pretty straight looking XJ for the MJ..... oh wait.... you did. 😂
I would have rather seen you build a 2wd stadium style build. Keeping it 2wd with long travel suspension would have been cool .You already have a 4wd. Be different.
Excited to see that you are 4x4 swapping the comanche, mine Is on a 6 inch lift on 31x10.50r15s ans stands about where you said you want it when you put it on the jack stands
My 91 Cherokee mirrors pop in and out forward or back...
Yours don't?
Axle on the bottom of springs. Drive angle will change, Tail shaft might have to be longer ? , stroke on shockers myl be different. proportioning vale on brake line may need adjusting, sway bar links will have to be longer or drop rail monts by thickness of the springs. Hope this helps keep going loads of FUN.
Hey Rudy, Wayne from Cape Town, South Africa, we call that a load senser here, it is connected to the braking system, and assists when load is utilized.
Of course the video doesn't show all, but I can't help but laugh when you say a bolt is stuck or rusted. Everything looks to have come apart pretty easily to me, but then again I live in Michigan and am used to seeing things rusted 10 times worse than that Jeep and in only a matter of a few years. LOL
Ah, now Rudy gets to learn a bit about UA-cam. You can't ask if something's necessary without this response: ua-cam.com/video/iITtVjtr5-Y/v-deo.html
On the first obstacle of the Rubicon Trail my 88 Cherokee ripped the left front brake line off. It being close to the master cylinder, I just clamped the line off and drove the whole first day with the E brake and very little brake pedal. Fixed it at camp that night but wow a few very sketchy moments that day.
That was Cool saving the Mantis !
Obvious question - Why not repair the blueberry instead?
the vehicle is basically condemned, meaning i cant license it. Its not stolen, just a previous owner seriously messed up the paperwork on it then passed away...
@@Rudysadventureanddesignreal Gotcha. Thanks for the response. BTW, my wife was very impressed when you took that praying mantis outside. She thinks all gearheads are thuggish (except for you, now).
Not knowing that much big automotive stuff, I'm surprised the Jeep Comanche isn't more beefier.
The Comanche was definitely geared / taliored as a "work truck" and had a good considerable payload capacity that could very a good bit empty to full. That valve measured the load and "proportioned" the brakes. Drums and disk react at different speeds as does front to rear. It was basically a crude form of traction control ish in a way. Locking up the rear could result in a spin.
Depending on the condition of the brake fluid and how long it was sitting those valves usually go bad on Comanche, and they are pretty unobtainable. As long as you have a consistent payload you should be able to swap in a manual universal valve like used on race cars/ hot rods. Or you can swap in an XJ valve and I think you modify it slightly. Or just delete it all together and use a simple 3 way block after the master. That's what I did with mine but you need to be careful locking up the rear end.
If you ever need custom length axle shafts for a narrowed housing, I would love to make some for you. I have been making them for years, and even made a video recently of a custom 4340 dana 60 shaft that I had cut and splined.
Man this is depressing. I'm wanting a Jeep Cherokee (low on funds), watching something I would like to have and be taken apart for parts. what a shame. Other than that good video.
Jack stands and floor jacks. Lots of memories doing that back in the 60s. It always did the job. Thanks for the video! Good job!
@14:15
My ‘89 Jetta had a similar setup. It allows more rear braking power if you had more weight in the back.
Too bad the front axles weren’t the same. You could have set up some rear steer action!! 😂. And lifting the Cherokee on top of that rack is hilariously and highly sus.
Just wondering, and I know you've already looked into it, but what transfer case will you be using? The one out of the Jeep on the top of the rack? Hope you already pulled that one, if so. I know the 2wd pickup doesn't have one.
Why would you mess up a good station wagon for that little junker truck? I know I know. You’re making vids.
I think I have a good name for your Jeep, Wanabee, because when it grows up it wants to be a Pickup Truck. (Ha Ha)
15:49 I was telling you, NO as you pried the u joint from the yoke….but when it hit the floor and went everywhere I laughed hard when you realized that wasn’t the way to do it. I guess you learn one way or another. Hey, I enjoy seeing your project anyway. I’m. Not trying to be critical, it was just funny I was saying that when it fell. Enjoy!
A non CAD front axle and 29 spline rear are a nice upgrade, but Why are you tearing apart a clean low mileage XJ? A 1996 dodge dakota rear brake line works to extend the brake line on the comanche.
Just try to find something half that good of shape here in NY. The new Jeeps are a joke. Electronics that would make a preacher scream. Good video !