Always ask if they have trash scraps of what you’re looking for. Sometimes they have broke ones. You might have to ask a manager but I’ve usually found broke sheets of drywall and even plywood.
Because you are dealing with equipment like the windlass which is going to have frequent tension and strain I'd reinforce in the locker space under the windlass with either a metal plate or something that will distribute the stresses, not leave the patched area to cope with the load. Sorry for being a bit of a worry guts, I'm sure you probably thought of this and know what you are doing! Stay safe both! 🙏
I'd be tempted to replace that wooden 'platform' the windlass was sitting on with a much larger stainless steel plate, bolted through the hull as a reinforcement. It's whether they can find something of about the right size in Aruba.
@@nickbates7645 Yeah needs to be secure under the floor as well as on top, that patch unfortunately does create a weakness. Think they should be able to find something that'll work.
(sorry for my English, I am not a native) I would be worried that the newly inserted piece of wood interrupts the flow of force in the deck. There is a risk that - despite a lot for fibreglass - it will always move a little at the edges and break at some point. You should reinforce it from below with a large plate or cross braces to better distribute the forces of the windlass.
you need to get that man a jig saw and a skill saw! its painfull watching him cut plywood with a multi tool... you guys are killing it btw living my dream!
Ok, you 2, just another helpful hint from an old busybody. Surely(don’t call me Shirley)someone in Portsmouth or Piccadilly said always use powder when working with glass. But not talcum. Use it plentifully so as to fill your pores to keep the glass out. At least give it a try. You’ll be glad you did. It rinses off quite nicely. Ta Ta until my next nosey tidbit.
Zach and Becka, Nice job, Zach. Becka, I guess that you are glad that you found a "time out" place for Zach...ha... Y'all are awesome. Thank you for sharing. Blue Skies and Fair Weather. Faithfully, James
Zach and Becka, I hadn't finished watching, when I sent my earlier comment, but; amazing paint job, Becka. You both deserve a pint; or two. Thank y'all for sharing. Cheers! Faithfully, James
I worked at a fiberglass boat factory. You guys just brought back itchiness to a whole new level. LOL. Great work. I would though, reinforce the bottom bolts of the windless with a piece that spans the whole bottom side of the base inside the locker. Of course by the time I see this you are done your project. Cheers
Nice Job!! I know Becca isn't going to like my suggestion, but a yoga mat cut to the shape of your chain locker floor might protect the floor and fiber glass work. I'm pretty sure the mat won't absorb the moisture too. Just a thought. 😊
Good work each job individually well done by both of you. Great attitude. When tackling boat work, there is nothing to fear but fear, anything is possible.
Good morning Teulu Tribe. What a productive week. Thank you for always taking the extra time needed to film for us. Talk about fiberglass in your bits, I wondered why you didn't have on a suit to start with Zach? Great stuff. Great team. Very nice people. I'm gonna keep watching. Stay safe. ❤🙏
Zac, nice 'climber's hands', mine look the same just a fair bit older 😀 - rock and teeth always the best manicure! To you both that was a beautiful anchor locker transformation, so satisfying.
A hole saw is better for drilling through fibreglass. There will be less damage around the hole the with a speedbore which is really a timber drill. Great work though guys!
Top tip for the throughhull drains in anchor locker and other similar through….deck etc…..once drilled out (oversized) cast a full plug in the hole with thickened epoxy and then drille with a smaller diameter the hole you actually need….then you remain 100 pct sure that the walls of the hole have a coating of properly adhered epoxy…drying time will be the same, but much faster to cast and drill rather than mess about with your makeup brush.
Blows my mind every time! Why wasn't every hole through the cored deck properly epoxied? It's so easy to do it right the first time vs. having to deal with balsa or ply rot. You guys did well!
Hey guys looking great Just a thought did this in my chain locker I put a big plastic drum to catch the chain completely protecting the inside and easy to remove put two holes and a bit of hose to drain it to the through holes you have put in Keep up the good work J.
Well done. The part I would find the hardest is the overhead jobs, my arms don't like being above my head lol. I agree with Zach, if you're doing a job, do it right once not haphazard several times. Keep up the excellent work on your fabulous home.
Love the videos guys! I do agree though that those drain holes are way to close to the waterline. On your next shakedown, keep some way to plug them close by and maybe a drill in order to drill a hole in the floor of the anchor locker to let the water go back into the bilge. Just in case ;) A deep anchor locker has major advantages to performance, but the drawback is getting rid of the water. I'd focus on making the locker water tight from above on passage. Fair winds!
Now to repair the deck teak, align/drill/prep deck penetrations, mount the windless and seal with copious sika. You guys are rockstars at working together.
Great job you guys. So impressive. is Zach the new Mads when it comes to boat DIY? Becka it was normally off camera when you mixed the thickened epoxy. I am sure you were wearing a mask to protect your lungs from that Silica dust :)
Zac, becka, Great effort I know what its like working in a chain locker and that was in the UK the heat in there must have been unbearable. I am however concerned that the plywood that you used is not a marine ply and that may cause you a problem in the future. Make sure you you seal any holes you put through. It also looks like you only really put one layer of glass on and it did not overlap with the old glass around it very much. I would have put at least two if not three layers on there and gone at least 100mm over the old glass with a tapered joint. After all your windless is fixed to that repair and if there is any weakness it will show in the future when you least need it to.
Great job guys, looks totally professional! Are you planning to sand and varnish your teak deck? Would make a great vid as well. Love watching all your boat maintenance jobs ❤
Brilliant your a dream couple and team well done, your parents will be very very proud of you both. 😂😂 You will need to have a regular inspection of the outlets just to make sure that they don't become blocked with the likes of sea weed coming up with the chain. I'm always worried about your fantastic ring young lady so easy to get damaged and Come off on the inside of rubber gloves. I live in a motorhome so still have many jobs to do. But far easier to do external work, (no water) but I'm self sufficient with solar engery and all mod cons and enjoying my travels with my 2 dogs.😅😅. Now looking into using Sterling for Internet cheers
Awesome job guys, given the confined space and limited tools. Looks great and no more dirty seawater in the bilge. Imagine if you had not been using anchor snubbers that winch could have pulled out the deck. Winch looks fine though, just needs dismantling and clean up before paint. Make sure you put a good plate on the deck, maybe even laminate a grp one. Andy UK
The little screws in the deflector for each whole you drilled on the hull. Another option is to drill an oversized whole, fill it with epoxy then screw the little screws into the epoxy instead of the original material of the hull that might have timber inside. That will avoid water to travel/ been absorbed through your hull!
Suggest you make up a bit of metal rod that will fit through those new drain holes and long enough to easily reach from outside the locker. I expect you will need it regularly to keep the drain holes open. I trust the hatch is water proof as in a seaway water will be coming in those holes every time the bow goes down.
If you need to put holes into your hull or deck or anywhere that really needs you to seal the interior of the hull with epoxy then the way I've learnt to do this is to make the hole larger than required, fill it about 80% full with thickened epoxy and then push a liberally greased metal rod the right diameter through the epoxy. I clamp or get someone to hold a wooden pad over one side of the hole to prevent the epoxy being pushed out which make the epoxy squidge out on the side I'm pushing the rod through. This also forces the epoxy into all the nooks and crannies in the hole. Once the rod has reached the pad on the other side it can be removed and the rod pushed through more so that it protrudes both sides. I then centre the rod in the hole both sides, clamp that in position and wait for the epoxy to cure. Then withdraw the rod. It sounds more complicated than it is, but I have some photos of the procedure when I put a hole through the stem of my boat for a new bobstay fitting if you're interested. By the way, my boat's hull is wooden so screwing pads and wot not in place is simple to do and to fill afterwards
Looks great! I know it’s important to have a sound base for the windless and you should feel much more at ease now that it’s been repaired and anchor locker properly upgraded!🙂
This reminds me of when I bought a crappy fishing boat in South Dakota. Someone said that a boat is a hole in the water that your pour your money into.
Those holes near the waterline are going to let water in some situations, for example ar anchor when there's fetch, or at low speed in rough weather. Our victor has dry bilges, there is a hose that comes all the way back to the main bilge pump under the stuffing box. Its not perfect cause it might clog. Im thinking of creating a pocket woth a grate where the chain sits and install a small bilge pump to drain to the front bathroom sink thru hole. Its always nice to see you work, keep it up. Cheers.
@@TeuluTribe Guys I've been thinking about this and I locked at our victor while sailing, it does not need much healing to submerge drain hole. It can be submerged for a long time on passage. There is another maybe higher issue. Imagine you are sailing and some tru hole or hose starts letting water in "it happens there are tons of videos out there" you are outside enjoying the sail when you realize the kitchen is already knee deep in water, now the leak is under water you cant find it quickly. Meanwhile the boat has sunk a bit raising the waterline covering the drain holes water will start to come in and you have a very heavy chain on top of them. Not a good design at all. Maybe prepare at least some bangs to be able to stuff the drains in case you need to. We just want you to be safe. Cheers.
You should be able to get a rectifier to change the 60Hz to 50Hz it is a problem - it leads to lots of kit breaking. I'm just hoping that all these new holes that are being drilled in the boat have risers on them or are well above the waterline, wouldn't want to sink Teulu when you heel over! That anchor locker looked amazing now though!! Random aside - during world war 2 SOE gave resistance fighters in Crete (I think - might be wrong) fibreglass to add to the washing powder that was used when they were washign the occupying troops uniforms 🙂.
That was another nice sample of oohh glorious (partly unexpected) boat DIY Zack and Rebecca.😅🎉 And how good that you encourage and compliment each other. I've often missed that in my life..focus was more on mistakes and thus criticism..so sometimes my eyes filled up and my heart flooded when I see you guys in there like that.❤❤ Bravely forward and sail on today's wind (or at least try..😅)😢
Really good job folks, so hard to work in that heat, any shade like old tarp would help with heat where your working. FYI, looking around an old boat yard to find discarded pieces of fiberglass to use instead of plywood might be a good idea as it would have better compression strength where the bolts go through and not rot if water gets in! If you could have gone back to Uk to do this work do you think it would be easier/cheaper? Cheers warren
Fantastic teamwork you two👏 And all the jobs your taking on and doing it as good as anyone in a boatyard or even better, I’m halfway through a 2 year project myself and doing it with no short cuts, nice to know what you have in a gale⛵️❤️
What perseverance! Your forepeak design and teak-work looks identical to our Colvic Watson that was built in Maldon, Essex, but the anchor locked drained externally!
I have a 30 ft. Pearson. Whereas you are removing an electric windlass that probably was original equipment on your 80s boat, I recently installed a manual Lofrans windlass I bought from Ebay. That's the difference between a 30 ft. and a 37-foot boat.😅
There is a kind of plastic called Starboard, which is much more durable than plywood, which I used to reinforce the deck. One plate on top on the deck, one plate below the deck. I'm not sure if you can get it where you are. The load on a windlass is enormous while anchoring during a storm.
@@bitsurfr46agree the forces on the windlass are enormous and having a sandwich of plates above and below decks makes sense, but during a storm, most of the load should be taken up by the snubber rather than the windlass shouldn’t it? 🤔
Assuming. You are using all chain rode and use a snubber. You are probably right. As a coastal sailor, I often use a mix of chain and rope rode. I got the deck plate idea from a UA-cam video search entitled "LoFrams manual windlass." I feel more secure with deck plates. They will never rot.
Well done Prob to late now but I hope the bottom of the chain locker floor was fitted with it sloping towards the holes you drilled or it will not drain properly !! and then it will start to stink .
Fibreglass. I HATE that Stuff. I had to work with it on a couple of occasions and swore never again. So far, so good. Making molds was one job. Drilling holes in Printed Circuit Boards was another and quickest way I know of, of destroying Drill Bits; especially 1 mm drills, which snapped very easily, if you applied too much pressure on the Pillar Drill. One of those occasions when 'slow and steady' was the best way; despite the time it took to complete the contract. After 15 weeks in the job, I quit; the thirteenth person to quit the job, during my employment there. That company couldn't keep people, although a lot of that problem was due to the manager, who was a complete dingbat. No 'Man Management Skills' what-so-ever.
It is a measure of how far you have come on your journey to confidently do important ship repairs. Well done!👍
That really means a lot to us! Thank you David☺️
Always ask if they have trash scraps of what you’re looking for. Sometimes they have broke ones. You might have to ask a manager but I’ve usually found broke sheets of drywall and even plywood.
Because you are dealing with equipment like the windlass which is going to have frequent tension and strain I'd reinforce in the locker space under the windlass with either a metal plate or something that will distribute the stresses, not leave the patched area to cope with the load. Sorry for being a bit of a worry guts, I'm sure you probably thought of this and know what you are doing!
Stay safe both! 🙏
I'd be tempted to replace that wooden 'platform' the windlass was sitting on with a much larger stainless steel plate, bolted through the hull as a reinforcement. It's whether they can find something of about the right size in Aruba.
@@nickbates7645 Yeah needs to be secure under the floor as well as on top, that patch unfortunately does create a weakness.
Think they should be able to find something that'll work.
The new windlass that we have will distribute the load slightly differently, so hopefully we will be okay. Thanks for the advice, we will😁
Marvelous, don't think I'd have my dinner in the chain locker, far to hot! Best with the windlass!
(sorry for my English, I am not a native) I would be worried that the newly inserted piece of wood interrupts the flow of force in the deck. There is a risk that - despite a lot for fibreglass - it will always move a little at the edges and break at some point. You should reinforce it from below with a large plate or cross braces to better distribute the forces of the windlass.
you need to get that man a jig saw and a skill saw! its painfull watching him cut plywood with a multi tool... you guys are killing it btw living my dream!
That’s one horrible job to do. So much respect to you for tackling it in that hot confined space, and coming out the other side.
As a professional boat repairman I must say,,, Well Done!
Can you believe i haven't done any epoxy/fiberglass work for years but i am sitting watching you work and i can smell the resin.
Geeez Louise…What a Project with the Chain Locker, Windless & Drain😜 Ya Folks are becoming Fit-it Specialists👍 Continue to Stay Safe and Enjoy 😎
Great couple with positive attitude. Simply amazing.
Looks great. What I love about your channel is your “ can do attitude “ and your constant reinforcement of each other.. excellent work!
Awesome work! You can be proud of what you accomplished.
Thank you, that means a lot to us☺️
I love watching you do work on the boat. Very interesting. You could call this - This Old Boat. There is a US TV show called This Old House.
Wow, what a great set of well-executed tasks!
Working in small, hot and oddly shaped spaces along with a difficult project.. I admire both of you. 👏👏👏
Thank you so much 😀
Wonderful job, guys! Please protect your hearing. You'll B glad U did when you're older. Be well ❤
What did you say 🤣 (sorry awful joke). Thanks for the advice, we'll make sure to do that next time😊
those anchor locker drains are one hell of a bad idea
Ok, you 2, just another helpful hint from an old busybody. Surely(don’t call me Shirley)someone in Portsmouth or Piccadilly said always use powder when working with glass. But not talcum. Use it plentifully so as to fill your pores to keep the glass out. At least give it a try. You’ll be glad you did. It rinses off quite nicely. Ta Ta until my next nosey tidbit.
You guys should seek sponsorship from Fein Multi Tools. It's definitely Zach's favourite weapon of destruction! 😉
Zach and Becka,
Nice job, Zach. Becka, I guess that you are glad that you found a "time out" place for Zach...ha... Y'all are awesome. Thank you for sharing.
Blue Skies and Fair Weather.
Faithfully,
James
Zach and Becka,
I hadn't finished watching, when I sent my earlier comment, but; amazing paint job, Becka. You both deserve a pint; or two. Thank y'all for sharing.
Cheers!
Faithfully,
James
Cheers James😊
I worked at a fiberglass boat factory. You guys just brought back itchiness to a whole new level. LOL. Great work. I would though, reinforce the bottom bolts of the windless with a piece that spans the whole bottom side of the base inside the locker. Of course by the time I see this you are done your project. Cheers
Nice Job!! I know Becca isn't going to like my suggestion, but a yoga mat cut to the shape of your chain locker floor might protect the floor and fiber glass work. I'm pretty sure the mat won't absorb the moisture too. Just a thought. 😊
Great job Zack. I’ve really enjoyed watching you go from being a rooky to a first class skipper and boat engineer. Massive respect.
Not sure i'd call myself and engineer😂 But thank you!
Good work each job individually well done by both of you. Great attitude. When tackling boat work, there is nothing to fear but fear, anything is possible.
Cheers for the wise words John!
Good morning Teulu Tribe. What a productive week. Thank you for always taking the extra time needed to film for us. Talk about fiberglass in your bits, I wondered why you didn't have on a suit to start with Zach? Great stuff. Great team. Very nice people. I'm gonna keep watching. Stay safe. ❤🙏
It was a crazy week! Yeah I probably should have had one on then too😅 Cheers Steve.
Zac, nice 'climber's hands', mine look the same just a fair bit older 😀 - rock and teeth always the best manicure! To you both that was a beautiful anchor locker transformation, so satisfying.
A hole saw is better for drilling through fibreglass. There will be less damage around the hole the with a speedbore which is really a timber drill. Great work though guys!
Top tip for the throughhull drains in anchor locker and other similar through….deck etc…..once drilled out (oversized) cast a full plug in the hole with thickened epoxy and then drille with a smaller diameter the hole you actually need….then you remain 100 pct sure that the walls of the hole have a coating of properly adhered epoxy…drying time will be the same, but much faster to cast and drill rather than mess about with your makeup brush.
A cheap digital kitchen scale can be helpful mixing small amounts of epoxy, as West provides instructions on how to mix by weight as well as volume…
Blows my mind every time! Why wasn't every hole through the cored deck properly epoxied? It's so easy to do it right the first time vs. having to deal with balsa or ply rot. You guys did well!
Eeesshhh our anchor locker is a fright. Yes we must .. I never thought of painting it.. I just clean it. Thanks for the video
I love watching you two work together like you do 😊.
Best of luck with repairs from Canada.
You two are amazing, good humans, kind, a fun watch every Monday morning
😂😂😂
From the thumbnail, I thought that was Leonardo! 😆
Wow. Great job guys!🎉
Thank you Julia!
Those anchor drain holes will sink you. Unless thats a watertight bulkhead.
Yea I’m quite confused about how that’s going to work.
Great job guys, that might be the nicest anchor locker I've ever seen. Ya know, with the right lighting in there you could...
I watch a guy on you tube that's really good at that stuf...you might know him...😅😅😅😅
Good luck...you'll bloody do this.
Hey guys looking great
Just a thought did this in my chain locker
I put a big plastic drum to catch the chain completely protecting the inside and easy to remove put two holes and a bit of hose to drain it to the through holes you have put in
Keep up the good work
J.
Well done. The part I would find the hardest is the overhead jobs, my arms don't like being above my head lol. I agree with Zach, if you're doing a job, do it right once not haphazard several times. Keep up the excellent work on your fabulous home.
For ventilation you can run a fan to push fresh air into the space. Those fumes are no joke. Please be careful.
Love the videos guys! I do agree though that those drain holes are way to close to the waterline. On your next shakedown, keep some way to plug them close by and maybe a drill in order to drill a hole in the floor of the anchor locker to let the water go back into the bilge. Just in case ;) A deep anchor locker has major advantages to performance, but the drawback is getting rid of the water. I'd focus on making the locker water tight from above on passage. Fair winds!
Now to repair the deck teak, align/drill/prep deck penetrations, mount the windless and seal with copious sika. You guys are rockstars at working together.
Thank you😊
Great job you guys. So impressive. is Zach the new Mads when it comes to boat DIY? Becka it was normally off camera when you mixed the thickened epoxy. I am sure you were wearing a mask to protect your lungs from that Silica dust :)
You should be proud of the work you doing, not always the way i would do it but always a pretty solid solution
Zac, becka, Great effort I know what its like working in a chain locker and that was in the UK the heat in there must have been unbearable. I am however concerned that the plywood that you used is not a marine ply and that may cause you a problem in the future. Make sure you you seal any holes you put through. It also looks like you only really put one layer of glass on and it did not overlap with the old glass around it very much. I would have put at least two if not three layers on there and gone at least 100mm over the old glass with a tapered joint. After all your windless is fixed to that repair and if there is any weakness it will show in the future when you least need it to.
Bloody fantastic, what a brilliant job, well done. Xx🤣🌈👌
Great job guys, looks totally professional! Are you planning to sand and varnish your teak deck? Would make a great vid as well. Love watching all your boat maintenance jobs ❤
Nice job on the anchor locker and the underside of the deck.
So excited to see your skills and teamwork. Just comparing with your early vlogs …. 😅😅 …. so chuffed for you two. 🎉❤
great job kids....glad to see you are not afraid to tackle an job that comes your way...
Brilliant your a dream couple and team well done, your parents will be very very proud of you both. 😂😂
You will need to have a regular inspection of the outlets just to make sure that they don't become blocked with the likes of sea weed coming up with the chain.
I'm always worried about your fantastic ring young lady so easy to get damaged and Come off on the inside of rubber gloves.
I live in a motorhome so still have many jobs to do. But far easier to do external work, (no water) but I'm self sufficient with solar engery and all mod cons and enjoying my travels with my 2 dogs.😅😅. Now looking into using Sterling for Internet cheers
Awesome job guys, given the confined space and limited tools. Looks great and no more dirty seawater in the bilge. Imagine if you had not been using anchor snubbers that winch could have pulled out the deck. Winch looks fine though, just needs dismantling and clean up before paint. Make sure you put a good plate on the deck, maybe even laminate a grp one. Andy UK
The little screws in the deflector for each whole you drilled on the hull. Another option is to drill an oversized whole, fill it with epoxy then screw the little screws into the epoxy instead of the original material of the hull that might have timber inside. That will avoid water to travel/ been absorbed through your hull!
Suggest you make up a bit of metal rod that will fit through those new drain holes and long enough to easily reach from outside the locker. I expect you will need it regularly to keep the drain holes open. I trust the hatch is water proof as in a seaway water will be coming in those holes every time the bow goes down.
I thought the same thing. Water will go anywhere you don't want it to go!
Thanks for the suggestion, we will be keeping a close eye on the locker when we leave Aruba!
More hard work and improvements, well done guys 😅😅
Thanks Mike😄
If you need to put holes into your hull or deck or anywhere that really needs you to seal the interior of the hull with epoxy then the way I've learnt to do this is to make the hole larger than required, fill it about 80% full with thickened epoxy and then push a liberally greased metal rod the right diameter through the epoxy.
I clamp or get someone to hold a wooden pad over one side of the hole to prevent the epoxy being pushed out which make the epoxy squidge out on the side I'm pushing the rod through. This also forces the epoxy into all the nooks and crannies in the hole.
Once the rod has reached the pad on the other side it can be removed and the rod pushed through more so that it protrudes both sides. I then centre the rod in the hole both sides, clamp that in position and wait for the epoxy to cure. Then withdraw the rod.
It sounds more complicated than it is, but I have some photos of the procedure when I put a hole through the stem of my boat for a new bobstay fitting if you're interested.
By the way, my boat's hull is wooden so screwing pads and wot not in place is simple to do and to fill afterwards
Agreed. It was quite a challenge to get live a board insurance.. stoked you figured it out.its still an issue for a lot of peeps. Good looking out
think about what your doing that part of the hull is going to have a bow wave while your sailing
Looks great! I know it’s important to have a sound base for the windless and you should feel much more at ease now that it’s been repaired and anchor locker properly upgraded!🙂
This reminds me of when I bought a crappy fishing boat in South Dakota. Someone said that a boat is a hole in the water that your pour your money into.
Brilliant job guys, the nice shiny anchor locker great work 👍👍⛵️⛵️
Cheers Stuart😁
Great work! One clean anchor locker nice and clean. Cheers!
Those holes near the waterline are going to let water in some situations, for example ar anchor when there's fetch, or at low speed in rough weather. Our victor has dry bilges, there is a hose that comes all the way back to the main bilge pump under the stuffing box. Its not perfect cause it might clog. Im thinking of creating a pocket woth a grate where the chain sits and install a small bilge pump to drain to the front bathroom sink thru hole. Its always nice to see you work, keep it up. Cheers.
Too close
We will be monitoring them on our next passage. I think it would be fine🤞 Thanks for the heads up!
@@TeuluTribe Guys I've been thinking about this and I locked at our victor while sailing, it does not need much healing to submerge drain hole.
It can be submerged for a long time on passage.
There is another maybe higher issue.
Imagine you are sailing and some tru hole or hose starts letting water in "it happens there are tons of videos out there" you are outside enjoying the sail when you realize the kitchen is already knee deep in water, now the leak is under water you cant find it quickly. Meanwhile the boat has sunk a bit raising the waterline covering the drain holes water will start to come in and you have a very heavy chain on top of them. Not a good design at all. Maybe prepare at least some bangs to be able to stuff the drains in case you need to. We just want you to be safe. Cheers.
You should be able to get a rectifier to change the 60Hz to 50Hz it is a problem - it leads to lots of kit breaking. I'm just hoping that all these new holes that are being drilled in the boat have risers on them or are well above the waterline, wouldn't want to sink Teulu when you heel over! That anchor locker looked amazing now though!!
Random aside - during world war 2 SOE gave resistance fighters in Crete (I think - might be wrong) fibreglass to add to the washing powder that was used when they were washign the occupying troops uniforms 🙂.
That was another nice sample of oohh glorious (partly unexpected) boat DIY Zack and Rebecca.😅🎉 And how good that you encourage and compliment each other. I've often missed that in my life..focus was more on mistakes and thus criticism..so sometimes my eyes filled up and my heart flooded when I see you guys in there like that.❤❤ Bravely forward and sail on today's wind (or at least try..😅)😢
Fantastic job guys! That looked brutal.
Yeah it wasn't the nicest experience ever, but the results were worth it😁
Fantastic job guys. I thought I had a tough time fixing a leak in my aluminium water tank but I stand corrected!!
Well done!!!!! Just a heads up a food scale would be perfect for your future epoxy work
Really good job folks, so hard to work in that heat, any shade like old tarp would help with heat where your working.
FYI, looking around an old boat yard to find discarded pieces of fiberglass to use instead of plywood might be a good idea as it would have better compression strength where the bolts go through and not rot if water gets in!
If you could have gone back to Uk to do this work do you think it would be easier/cheaper?
Cheers warren
Your video's always brighten my day, and of course inspire me to get motivated for my boat projects :)
Glad we could help Joseph!
Hi, incredebly fantastic your trip / adventure
Will like to know how did you bypass the bilge from the shower ?
Thank you
Fantastic teamwork you two👏 And all the jobs your taking on and doing it as good as anyone in a boatyard or even better, I’m halfway through a 2 year project myself and doing it with no short cuts, nice to know what you have in a gale⛵️❤️
Nicely done!
What perseverance! Your forepeak design and teak-work looks identical to our Colvic Watson that was built in Maldon, Essex, but the anchor locked drained externally!
Looks really nice, great job you two.
Great job. Final result was beautiful.
Great Work....I see a dry bilge in your future!!!! ⛵
Fingers crossed!
Well done you two, another one off the list
Good job. Very professional
Good job!
Most awesome.
Good job on the boat looked great😊
Well done guys another great episode cheers !!
I have a 30 ft. Pearson. Whereas you are removing an electric windlass that probably was original equipment on your 80s boat, I recently installed a manual Lofrans windlass I bought from Ebay. That's the difference between a 30 ft. and a 37-foot boat.😅
There is a kind of plastic called Starboard, which is much more durable than plywood, which I used to reinforce the deck. One plate on top on the deck, one plate below the deck. I'm not sure if you can get it where you are. The load on a windlass is enormous while anchoring during a storm.
@@bitsurfr46agree the forces on the windlass are enormous and having a sandwich of plates above and below decks makes sense, but during a storm, most of the load should be taken up by the snubber rather than the windlass shouldn’t it? 🤔
Assuming. You are using all chain rode and use a snubber. You are probably right. As a coastal sailor, I often use a mix of chain and rope rode. I got the deck plate idea from a UA-cam video search entitled "LoFrams manual windlass." I feel more secure with deck plates. They will never rot.
It should be almost nothing for most of the time as we always use a snubber, saying that it is still a good suggestion! Cheers😁
well done both of you,, looks great
Thanks so much!
Fantastic work!!! A credit to you both
Well done u 2
Nice work guys ..
awesome job
Great video
Grate Job Both.. you need everything spick and span for your big crossing.. good luck guys 👍👍
Well done Prob to late now but I hope the bottom of the chain locker floor was fitted with it sloping towards the holes you drilled or it will not drain properly !! and then it will start to stink .
Nice one ❤
good job
Good work.
Fibreglass. I HATE that Stuff. I had to work with it on a couple of occasions and swore never again. So far, so good. Making molds was one job. Drilling holes in Printed Circuit Boards was another and quickest way I know of, of destroying Drill Bits; especially 1 mm drills, which snapped very easily, if you applied too much pressure on the Pillar Drill. One of those occasions when 'slow and steady' was the best way; despite the time it took to complete the contract. After 15 weeks in the job, I quit; the thirteenth person to quit the job, during my employment there. That company couldn't keep people, although a lot of that problem was due to the manager, who was a complete dingbat. No 'Man Management Skills' what-so-ever.