Changed driver side on a 2007 Octavia yesterday. The upper mount bolts were so dirty and rusted, it took hours to get them off...Eventually nothing else helped than cutting the bolts, everything else was already torn apart. Very tricky job on a vehicle located in the Nordics and lot's of slush and salt on the roads. I advise to reserve a full day for doing both sides and tools to cut bolts if they are too stuck. Optimally an amateur like me could do both sides in 3-5 hours. Also doesn't matter which side the steering wheel is, when you change both sides you always need to disconnect wiper arm! That should be mentioned. Otherwise good, clear and informative video. Just wished there were some tips in case you run into certain trouble with rusted/jammed bolts etc.
In fact, the thing is very effective. Especially if your bolts or nuts are not under temperature loads, and water has got into the threads. This is a very good penetrating substance, it is enough to treat the area and wait half an hour. A bolt or nut will give in 80% of the time.
Yeah DEFFO need that wiper arm off… zap off the 13mm and just keep moving it about back n’ forward till it comes lose and it will come off. Puller won’t fit so dont even bother spending 20 mins trying to find yours…. 😂.. I wouldn’t trust this video tho cause after I zipped up my drop link at time 10:35 in your video, My brake caplier didn’t paint itself a lovely silver colour like yours did… maybe I done it wrong somehow 😮
@@game4alaughman Easy way to get the arm off if it's stuck is to pull the arm up as if you're trying to pull it off then tap the centre shaft with a hammer. Usually shocks it free straight away.
@@dopiaza2006 yeah I tried that for 10 15 mins then looked for 20 mins for the puller which didn’t fit 😂😂😂 then watched iPad for tips, just rocked it back and forward plenty wd. Then it worked it’s way free at last, gently as you go. Didn’t want to keep tapping with the hammer 🔨👍👍
For some reason when I try to remove the bolt at 1:58 the threads move too and I found nothing that I can try to use to hold the threads in place, I even tried to squeeze an open end wrench on the other side but to no avail. Any clues?
Why are the torque specs different in Skoda Workshop manual? (like the 12-sided drive shaft bolt 141Nm here and 70Nm+90° in Skoda manual) Which one is correct?
Thank you for your comment! It all depends on the type of suspension, you are right, some values of the tightening torque may differ, so we recommend that you adhere to those values that are indicated in the technical documentation for repairing your car directly. Best Regards, Autodoc team
I wouldn’t worry about torque settings, almost all of the nuts and bolts in this video have been over-torqued, you can hear the click of the torque wrench and then they are still tightened further! Also the excessive use of WD40 is worrying, also applying brake cleaner to only one side of the brake disc is frustrating
As autodoc don't even know whats being used in their own video, its a special tool for VAG struts to spread the hub apart to take the clamping pressure of the shock absorber. its VW 3424, laser tool 3396 or searching "vag strut tool" will bring up results for you.
Brilliant video! One question (from a learning enthusiast). Why does the shock strut rod get removed with 21mm socket / Hex No.H7 then the new shock reassembled with a 22mm socket / Hex No. H6?
The old and new shock absorbers have a difference in the required tool, depending on the manufacturer of spare parts, they may differ, and therefore the different tools that we used.
Shame that the 'old' original manufacturers bottom dust boot retention ring wasn't removed from the 'old' shock and fitted onto the new shock ! Most people don't realise it is there in the first place, or if they do, don't realise that it comes off - but it does. Attention to detail, please.
It's a good video but this would be very difficult for a DIYer, its easy when you have all the gear and equipment, and I'm sure as an amatuer you would run into obstacles along the way like seized nuts etc .... this job is for a mechanic... Also it would take hours for a first timer....
We cannot show all the nuances and problems during replacement; this is all individual for each particular model of car and it is not always possible to solve them at home. To avoid this, we always recommend that replacements be carried out at specialized car services.
![How to change rear shock absorber on OCTAVIA (1Z5) [TUTORIAL AUTODOC]](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/tYjYZSXElKA/mqdefault.jpg)
Very clear and precise breakdown. Very professional technician. Thank you for sharing.
Thank you for your feedback!
We are glad to know this tutorial was useful to you.
Stay tuned with us!
Best regards,
Autodoc team!
Note at 3:42 the strut socket magically moves position. You need to do this to clear the metal tab on the rear of the strut.
Links fecked also..
Thank you ! Doing it on my Octavia 3, works exactly as described ! This is a big help !
What a mechanic 👍
Changed driver side on a 2007 Octavia yesterday. The upper mount bolts were so dirty and rusted, it took hours to get them off...Eventually nothing else helped than cutting the bolts, everything else was already torn apart. Very tricky job on a vehicle located in the Nordics and lot's of slush and salt on the roads. I advise to reserve a full day for doing both sides and tools to cut bolts if they are too stuck. Optimally an amateur like me could do both sides in 3-5 hours. Also doesn't matter which side the steering wheel is, when you change both sides you always need to disconnect wiper arm! That should be mentioned. Otherwise good, clear and informative video. Just wished there were some tips in case you run into certain trouble with rusted/jammed bolts etc.
In fact, the thing is very effective.
Especially if your bolts or nuts are not under temperature loads, and water has got into the threads.
This is a very good penetrating substance, it is enough to treat the area and wait half an hour. A bolt or nut will give in 80% of the time.
Great, you should teach other Skoda garage. Thanks for that
Mad respect, bought quite a lot of parts from you and quality was always great and cheap too!
Thanks for your positive comment! Stay with us!
Was gonna have a bash at this until that press at 4:20 came out lol time to submit to the professionals
You have to remove the windscreen wiper arm to do that side on a RHD version - you can't bend the scuttle panel up far enough otherwise
Thank you for your valuable clarification, this will be very useful information for our viewers.
Best Regards,
Autodoc team
Cheers for the heads up. Im doing this tomorrow.
Yeah DEFFO need that wiper arm off… zap off the 13mm and just keep moving it about back n’ forward till it comes lose and it will come off. Puller won’t fit so dont even bother spending 20 mins trying to find yours…. 😂.. I wouldn’t trust this video tho cause after I zipped up my drop link at time 10:35 in your video, My brake caplier didn’t paint itself a lovely silver colour like yours did… maybe I done it wrong somehow 😮
@@game4alaughman Easy way to get the arm off if it's stuck is to pull the arm up as if you're trying to pull it off then tap the centre shaft with a hammer. Usually shocks it free straight away.
@@dopiaza2006 yeah I tried that for 10 15 mins then looked for 20 mins for the puller which didn’t fit 😂😂😂 then watched iPad for tips, just rocked it back and forward plenty wd. Then it worked it’s way free at last, gently as you go. Didn’t want to keep tapping with the hammer 🔨👍👍
Excellent, thank you.
Great how to guide. Many thanks
We are glad that this video was useful to you!
Cracking video keep up the good work.
Thank you for sharing your opinion!
thank you. i have a superb mk 3. so i assume all torque settings are same...
You can find out more accurate information about torque settings in the technical documentation for car repairs.
For some reason when I try to remove the bolt at 1:58 the threads move too and I found nothing that I can try to use to hold the threads in place, I even tried to squeeze an open end wrench on the other side but to no avail. Any clues?
We recommend contacting the technical service to solve your problem.
AUTODOC
Wow thank you, this is good. I can do this
Thanks for your positive comment! Stay with us!
what is a better sachs or belstain ?
sanks
Terriblle music 😂 but the video is great.
The drive soket is 21mm or 22mm.....at the beginning of the job is a size 21mm and at the end is different, 22mm....wich one is the one
Good job
The video doesn't show how he fixed back the boot. Is it just snap-on? Mine came off and I want to fix it back... cable ties?
Why are the torque specs different in Skoda Workshop manual? (like the 12-sided drive shaft bolt 141Nm here and 70Nm+90° in Skoda manual) Which one is correct?
Thank you for your comment!
It all depends on the type of suspension, you are right, some values of the tightening torque may differ, so we recommend that you adhere to those values that are indicated in the technical documentation for repairing your car directly.
Best Regards,
Autodoc team
It depends if the bolt has ridges on the rear face or not
I wouldn’t worry about torque settings, almost all of the nuts and bolts in this video have been over-torqued, you can hear the click of the torque wrench and then they are still tightened further! Also the excessive use of WD40 is worrying, also applying brake cleaner to only one side of the brake disc is frustrating
What is the shock absorber socket?
Unfortunately, we do not have this information.
Stay tuned with us.
Best Regards,
Autodoc team
As autodoc don't even know whats being used in their own video, its a special tool for VAG struts to spread the hub apart to take the clamping pressure of the shock absorber. its VW 3424, laser tool 3396 or searching "vag strut tool" will bring up results for you.
@@darrenjones22 cheers mate. Managed to find it. It is a bit concerning they don't know what's in their videos or can't find out
What does the XZN Socket Bit look like?
Thank you for your comment!
We kindly ask you please clarify or rephrase your question.
Best Regards, Autodoc team.
@@autodocuk Watch your own video...... then tell me where I can purchase XZN 14mm socket from.
@@HARDMAN999 good answer pal. Maybe AUTODOC will reply before covid goes
It is a 12 point splined socket but it is not a 'normal' spline. Look for XZN or triplesquare. They are common on VWs, worth buying a set.
@@dopiaza2006 I've since bought one it's okay 😅 but it was classed as an:
M14 Socket.
Brilliant video! One question (from a learning enthusiast). Why does the shock strut rod get removed with 21mm socket / Hex No.H7 then the new shock reassembled with a 22mm socket / Hex No. H6?
The old and new shock absorbers have a difference in the required tool, depending on the manufacturer of spare parts, they may differ, and therefore the different tools that we used.
@autodoc.co.uk thankyou for the explanation and really good tutorial
Shame that the 'old' original manufacturers bottom dust boot retention ring wasn't removed from the 'old' shock and fitted onto the new shock ! Most people don't realise it is there in the first place, or if they do, don't realise that it comes off - but it does. Attention to detail, please.
It's a good video but this would be very difficult for a DIYer, its easy when you have all the gear and equipment, and I'm sure as an amatuer you would
run into obstacles along the way like seized nuts etc .... this job is for a mechanic... Also it would take hours for a first timer....
We cannot show all the nuances and problems during replacement; this is all individual for each particular model of car and it is not always possible to solve them at home. To avoid this, we always recommend that replacements be carried out at specialized car services.