This is perfect, I’ve had my Mega Cab over a year now. I could not find any videos at all on this truck for these repairs. The two I did was like a minute video should have never been posted, however this does give me hope as the truck is sentimental to me. Also my passenger side will be a little rough as it was part of an accident but let’s just hope it goes well
This was just what I needed to see! I'm going to attempt this exact fix on the exact same truck (year and model) with the exact fender and rocker rust, but is worse on the outer skin. from limited inspection, the mid rocker panel and inner have minimal surface rust so hoping to get the same parts and repair in the same way. I also have the bed to do, but as mentioned, found a bed with rust only at the top of the arches. Rest of the box is straight and clean. Awesome work!
Thanks for walking me through my 2004 3rd gen rocker panels. I live in Nl where corrosion is king Lol. I am going to take your advice and go with full OEM outer panels. I have to replace the inner/centre also, but my problem is that the inside floor is lip is also corroded and has to be replaced. I do not see them anywhere on line. Do you make your own, and if so can you post the template, W/ dimensions for your viewers. Also what after market replacement panels do you find best? I have seen some very thin off shore junk out there. There use to be a company in Ont that made good ones, but their name eludes me now, or if they are still in business? I am putting all this together now for next spring. I just had a hip replaced, I am not a lazy arise, its just that it will be that long before I can get onto a concrete floor again to take the inside floor measurements. So if you have a template made up to share, it would be greatly appreciated as it has a lazy curve to it . Thank's for sharing your knowledge, Cheer's H
I typically just make pieces as needed, rebuilding that flange should be fairly straightforward. I get everything through LKQ, they don’t sell to the public, but most auto parts stores will deal with them. It seems no matter who supplies the parts, they all come from the same factory, just stay clear of the really cheap parts.
Do you put the two coats of epoxy primer ,and the two coats of high build on at the same time or do you have wait overnight between the two types. And can you spray the primers on right out of the can ,or do they have to be thinned , and what type of thinner ,what is it called. Thanks. I really like your work. I hope I can get the same results.
I typically do 2 coats of epoxy, 10-15 minutes between coats, and same time before coating with high build. Each primer will have its specific hardener, and usually will require a set amount of reducer as well. Every product is different, so always best to request the technical data sheet from the supplier when you buy it if unsure
I went to princess auto yesterday and they don't sell paint or epoxy primer that isn't in a spray can. I picked up a small paint gun that I thought might be good for this job. Rocker panels cab corners and 1/4 panels. It is called a Vapor LVLP gravity feed touch up spray gun.It has a 0.8 nozzle. Do you think it will be good enough for all materials ,epoxy primer, high build primer, paint ,and clear coat.
The gun should work, will probably have to dial the fluid back for the base. You will need to get the primers from somewhere that sells auto body supplies, like Lordco, sometimes Napa, possibly KMS
I also looked for weld through primer at princess auto and Canadian tire, they didn't have any. I looked on line today and it looks like their are a lot of different kinds, what type do you use. Their is a postal strike so amazon doesn't look good.
I don’t remember which one I used in this video, if it’s the one on the floor Jack, it’s from Steck, couple hundred bucks, but if the other one, I recently bought it used
What about the primer color. What is best gray, black ,red. And what about the different temp of the primer reducer mix, how do I know what to use their.
Color doesn’t matter much, most epoxies are green or grey, most urethane is grey. Reducer speed just depends on the temperature you’re spraying in, if it’s hot out, use slow, if spraying in a cooler environment, use fast 👍🏼
How much do you usually charge for a job like that out in your area, just curious? Out here in Manitoba the rust is crazy on rockers, fenders and truck beds. Love the videos 👍
Yes, it’s a 3M product, specifically for automotive.coated on one side, which is extremely important for painting, as your paint doesn’t flake off of the plastic. Buy the 16” wide rolls because I work on a lot of trucks.
Hey John, I know there are some variables involved, but what range would you estimate a full repaint to be for a 1990 C1500, 2-door, short bed? I've already had the major rust repair done, but there might be some minor body work still needed.
I helped a friend do one recently (on my channel, and on Rust Bros official)it’s a ton of work, but definitely a nice way to do it, if you can find a clean cab, and have a 2 post lift. In this case the front of the roof was also badly rusted through.
Shops like yours are a dying breed …. any customer who gets you to do a job is getting great work and amazing value
Thank you, I appreciate that 👊🏼
This is perfect, I’ve had my Mega Cab over a year now. I could not find any videos at all on this truck for these repairs. The two I did was like a minute video should have never been posted, however this does give me hope as the truck is sentimental to me. Also my passenger side will be a little rough as it was part of an accident but let’s just hope it goes well
Wish you lived closer! I got a 2nd gen sport that needs a bunch of love! Love the channel man, very informative clear info!!
Thank you, I appreciate that 👊🏼
This was just what I needed to see! I'm going to attempt this exact fix on the exact same truck (year and model) with the exact fender and rocker rust, but is worse on the outer skin. from limited inspection, the mid rocker panel and inner have minimal surface rust so hoping to get the same parts and repair in the same way. I also have the bed to do, but as mentioned, found a bed with rust only at the top of the arches. Rest of the box is straight and clean. Awesome work!
Awesome, always glad to hear the videos are helpful 👍🏼
love these rust repair videos!
Thanks!!! Glad you dig ‘em, hopefully they’re helpful 👊🏼
Great video, I plan on doing the same thing on my mega cab this weekend
Nice, hopefully it comes in helpful 👊🏼
Mega nice job making it look easy.
I’ve honestly done so many that it becomes muscle memory 😂
Thank god i just started doing the rockers on my mega cab. Was having some serious doubts
Hopefully the video is helpful 👍🏼👍🏼
My 07 mega needs this exact same TLC
Can you tell me was the dash 2 behind all RRP numbers means? Example. Whats the difference between RRP3950 and RRP3950-2
Welcome back from Hollywood Jon
Had my 15 minutes of fame, back to reality 😁
@@Johnnymidnight Was pretty Cool, you can show it to your grand kids some day!
Great looking work truck!
25:56 - angle cut just like FITZEES. cut n butt 👍🏻💪🏻
Thanks for walking me through my 2004 3rd gen rocker panels. I live in Nl where corrosion is king Lol. I am going to take your advice and go with full OEM outer panels. I have to replace the inner/centre also, but my problem is that the inside floor is lip is also corroded and has to be replaced. I do not see them anywhere on line. Do you make your own, and if so can you post the template, W/ dimensions for your viewers. Also what after market replacement panels do you find best? I have seen some very thin off shore junk out there. There use to be a company in Ont that made good ones, but their name eludes me now, or if they are still in business? I am putting all this together now for next spring. I just had a hip replaced, I am not a lazy arise, its just that it will be that long before I can get onto a concrete floor again to take the inside floor measurements. So if you have a template made up to share, it would be greatly appreciated as it has a lazy curve to it . Thank's for sharing your knowledge, Cheer's H
I typically just make pieces as needed, rebuilding that flange should be fairly straightforward. I get everything through LKQ, they don’t sell to the public, but most auto parts stores will deal with them. It seems no matter who supplies the parts, they all come from the same factory, just stay clear of the really cheap parts.
Like the door dolly.
Do you put the two coats of epoxy primer ,and the two coats of high build on at the same time or do you have wait overnight between the two types. And can you spray the primers on right out of the can ,or do they have to be thinned , and what type of thinner ,what is it called. Thanks. I really like your work. I hope I can get the same results.
I typically do 2 coats of epoxy, 10-15 minutes between coats, and same time before coating with high build. Each primer will have its specific hardener, and usually will require a set amount of reducer as well. Every product is different, so always best to request the technical data sheet from the supplier when you buy it if unsure
When I buy the primer's , will the napa store have the mixing instructions . I didn't realize that you had to mix in a hardener with primers.
@@jeffglasman19yes, it will be on the can, but you can also request the TDS (technical data sheet)
I went to princess auto yesterday and they don't sell paint or epoxy primer that isn't in a spray can. I picked up a small paint gun that I thought might be good for this job. Rocker panels cab corners and 1/4 panels. It is called a Vapor LVLP gravity feed touch up spray gun.It has a 0.8 nozzle. Do you think it will be good enough for all materials ,epoxy primer, high build primer, paint ,and clear coat.
The gun should work, will probably have to dial the fluid back for the base. You will need to get the primers from somewhere that sells auto body supplies, like Lordco, sometimes Napa, possibly KMS
I also looked for weld through primer at princess auto and Canadian tire, they didn't have any. I looked on line today and it looks like their are a lot of different kinds, what type do you use. Their is a postal strike so amazon doesn't look good.
I use Dominion Sure Seal copper, Lordco always stocks it, if you have them where you are
hi john great video were did you geat your door jack price too i;m from the us thanks
I don’t remember which one I used in this video, if it’s the one on the floor Jack, it’s from Steck, couple hundred bucks, but if the other one, I recently bought it used
Where can you get the drain plugs for the back side of the rockers? My truck has 8 oval holes on each side.
Probably check with your local auto parts store and see if they have a catalog
What about the primer color. What is best gray, black ,red. And what about the different temp of the primer reducer mix, how do I know what to use their.
Color doesn’t matter much, most epoxies are green or grey, most urethane is grey. Reducer speed just depends on the temperature you’re spraying in, if it’s hot out, use slow, if spraying in a cooler environment, use fast 👍🏼
How much do you usually charge for a job like that out in your area, just curious? Out here in Manitoba the rust is crazy on rockers, fenders and truck beds. Love the videos 👍
Rockers and cab corners are typically $4500-5000 range
@@Johnnymidnight thanks for the reply Johnny, I think I'm charging way too cheap out here, lol
The plastic that you use for taping and painting, how do you buy that stuff ,does it come in big rolls .
Yes, it’s a 3M product, specifically for automotive.coated on one side, which is extremely important for painting, as your paint doesn’t flake off of the plastic. Buy the 16” wide rolls because I work on a lot of trucks.
@@Johnnymidnight So one side lets the paint stick to it better than the other, I am thinking so it doesn't get into your work.
@@jeffglasman19yes, exactly, if you don’t use treated plastic the air pressure will blow the paint off of the plastic
Hey John, I know there are some variables involved, but what range would you estimate a full repaint to be for a 1990 C1500, 2-door, short bed? I've already had the major rust repair done, but there might be some minor body work still needed.
Really tough without seeing it, but it’s pretty safe to say about 100 hours for a complete. At my shop rate that’s 7500 to start
I have a 2007 mega cab and its in rough shape. At what point do you say its just not worth it put a new cab on?
I helped a friend do one recently (on my channel, and on Rust Bros official)it’s a ton of work, but definitely a nice way to do it, if you can find a clean cab, and have a 2 post lift. In this case the front of the roof was also badly rusted through.
Hay people was seen denny salvage utube said there's 100s of bed takeoff beds tail gates in UT salt mining arrangement UT
Someone did a maco paint job on that truck before you got it. Those jambs look.....less than.
Yes, it was pretty bad....
That wasn't black Cherry was it ? Yes you did talk about the insolation or sound deadening maybe next time just show how flammable it really is ?
Pretty certain it just had pearl in the clear, once it was all polished up it matched up beautifully