Liked. Biggest tip I can add is to power wash the motor, trans and the whole are prior to starting. Makes the job much nicer. FYI: It's Cummins not Cummings, lol.
Just wanted to thank you for the great information. I had the damndest time bleeding the slave after 2 hours of pumping, I gave in and got another unit. Also, if anyone wants to know, this video is very informative for the nv3500 or ram 1500 clutch change. Thanks again! 19:56
After undoing the 8 bolts for cross member I always take a BFH and pound the cross member back towards the bed. The cross member falls right out. To put back in just hammer it back towards the engine and line holes up. Don't even have to hit it hard at all. (That's with northeast rust) clean frame up and good to go. Saves ya takin the spreader out. And for some of these trucks up here putting a new ventilation hole in the frame lol. Anyways great video! Just did a 47RE to NV4500 swap on my '00.
My uncle was a mechanic and told me that u had to spread the frame. So thats probably the proper way to do it. I have done several by just jacking the back of the trans up, and like he says, tap it up with a hammer and the slide the crossmember out the back. Works great
@@mattgetz8428 that's the easiest way for sure. Most of the time the Ole dodge blew the transmission I just changed it in the driveway haha. Once I got my shop up and running I now spread the frame (looks a little better for customers haha)
Tip: always change your rear seal if you have the access to do it, because they frequently start leaking around 250K so you might as well avoid having to pull the trans again and another clutch once it leaks all over your new clutch.
Thank you so much for your video. I had to list it in 1.75 speed but it was very informative and I hate having to mechanic on my own stuff but I had to. My first Transmission clutch replacement and everything is going pretty smooth thanks to your video.
Thank you, I need to replace cab body mounts.Now I have a better idea of what to disconnect from the transmission to allow the cab to lift freely. The info on the drive shaft bearings and carrier bearing is very helpful. First video to subscribe to looking forward to others for help maintaining my dodge
It's also important to mark the orientation of the driveshaft at the differential. Make alignment marks on the differential yoke and the driveshaft yoke so you can put the driveshaft back in the same position. If you don't you can run into vibration problems with your driveshaft.
I have the NV3500 in mine to and it works. way way better then the 46RE on my other truck that blew it's bands/gears. Only thing my manual truck needs is a bleed and possibly a new clutch cable or bearing. mines loose/spongey.
Great vid. I've got a 98 4x4 that needs a new clutch. Great tip on the slave cylinder and spreading the frame. I have a porta-power which should do the trick. I plan on removing the transfer case from the trans first to lighten the load. I increased power so will be installing a new South Bend clutch. My question: Does the rear of the engine require support during this process or will it stay in place on it's own?
Glad it could help. The engine is petter much balanced and just sits there. It will tilt toward the rear of the truck a little, for me, this helps get the trans out. You might have to use a bottle jack on the engine when you put it back in to get the trans and engine aligned.
I have a 1997 Dodge ram 2500 4X 4. It is the 5.9 L. Gasoline engine and my clutch has quit working.How can I tell what's wrong with it, and how do l fix it Any video's on this would greatly appreciate it.
Hey man I have a question. I have a 5 speed 2000 Dodge Ram Cummins and I was wondering what clutch do you recommend me and do you recommend me doing it myself or talking it to a mechanic?
Rigo what mods have been done to the truck. South bend has a nice clutch kit (flywheel n all included) for like 900.00 good for 450hp 800-900 ft lbs. Minds well while your at it upgrade the hydros for it (fairly cheap). It's every easy to swap these out! Save yourself the money and do it yourself my guy!
the space that you mentioned, that is under the shifter boots. I need to replace mine but I cannot find it anywhere. Perhaps I just don't know what it's actually called. Do you have a link or perhaps a part number?
It is called a TRANSMISSION SHIFT TOWER SPACER. I went through the same thing if you don,t have a good parts man they don't know what you are talking about. If you google TRANSMISSION SHIFT TOWER SPACER a lot will come up.
Just a question, Glenn - Is this similar to or the same clutch system that would be found also on Dodge Dakotas - 1993, 3.9L? I have a B.S. Degree in Aviation - engines and body work, I'm good with - Transmissions, I've stayed away from my whole life. I'm 48 now, noisy throw out bearing since before I bought the truck (4 years ago for $500) - with no other problems except this terrible noise. Clutch works fine, no other problems at all (I know, amazing, right?), 260000 miles on the truck w/ a rebuilt engine (also put in before I bought it) - I believe I have an AX15 Transmission, 5 speed, 2wd... There is NOTHING online that isn't a 4wd Dakota, or some other form of dodge. It makes a constant rubbing noise when in gear and clutch engaged and under a load, or negative load condition (coasting, say down a hill in gear) - noise stops when clutch depressed or in a "neutral" load situation (not pulling or breaking w/ engine). Now it's begun making a 'whir" (low pitched, not quite a 'grind' when the clutch is engaged but in neutral... goes away when the pedal is depressed (even slightly - just resting foot on pedal will stop the noise) - so I assume the throw out bearing is dead - time to do a clutch (even though the clutch is technically working fine except for this - but stupid not to do it while up and in there anyway).
When the clutch bearings go bad before the clutch it usually means someone knows how to drive a clutch. Most of the time that is what happens to me. The clutch is not far behind. The Dodge Dakota is very similar. Some of the Dakota uses the same engine and trans as the gas Ram 1500 and 2500. It is not that hard of a job. The worst part of the Dodge Cummins is the weight of the trans. The Dakota won't weigh as much, you can probably pick up the trans by yourself. It will make a good Saturday job, and save some money.
Would the weight of the trans pop the cross member out? Could you tap 1 side of the cross bar up/down forward/backwards and it will come out or no? Just curious, never done any of this...yet!
The cross member is shaped like a V. You can hit it with a hammer to get it out but it it will not go back in that way. You can buy a small jack for around $15. If you have a friend a 2x4 and jack will work, it just takes 3 hands that way.
What is the orientation of the clutch pad plate what to make sure I put it in right as I have had the engine out for a longboard time and don’t remember the orientation
Most clutch plates are marked. Check around the spline of the clutch plate. If not, the springs protrude out more on one side. This goes toward the trans or pressure plate.
How do you keep the flywheel from turning when you're trying to unbolt the bolts I've seen I don't know how many videos and they just skip that part it's kind of important
You can put a breaker bar on the crank shaft bolt in front of the engine and maybe a piece of pipe so it will hit the ground. Probably no one shows this is because they are using a impact that is what I used. You forget not everyone has a impact.
Guys, if y’all have advice, it would be so appreciated. 2002 ram 3500, NV4500, 4x4. New Napa clutch part # NCF 1105181. 99% sure we did not put anything in backwards. 99% sure transfer case is in the correct gear, I can feel the cup for the pivot ball inside where the slave cylinder goes. We have tons of clatter/grinding and have to jam it into gear for 1st or reverse. Once it’s rolling it’s okay. We can shift through all gears with the motor off. We have put two different new pre-filled slave and master cylinder assemblies on, O’reilly part number PFHK9081. We also bled both of them 7 ways from Sunday after trying to install straight out of the box as we are supposed to be able to do. We know for a fact they were 100% bled after we bench bled them. The only thing we can think of is the push rod isn’t getting enough stroke OR the master and slave cylinder is wrong. We had to add a spacer on the starter with the new clutch pack, I guess they had to do that when they “upgraded” the clutches for these trucks, it has us wondering if the OEM slave cylinder needs something similar as well. Absolutely stumped, any advice would be awesome. Thank you
Did you put a new flywheel on? If you did put a new flywheel on did you clean it good? All new flywheels come with a coating on them to keep from rusting until you put them on. I put a Napa clutch on an nv5600 one time and did not like it. It never really worked good and only lasted about 40,000 miles. If you forgot to clean the flywheel or if you did clean the flywheel you can try, giving the truck gas and let the clutch out just enough to rub not enough to go ( burn it a little bit ). Sometimes this helps. If it is chattering it is sticking to the flywheel and or pressure plate burning it will clean it some. After my NV5600 had a new clutch in it for about 20,000 miles it started chattering. I did this (burning it) and it stoped chattering.
Sometimes you have to take the flywheel off to git it out. A torch will work, I use it to take things loose all the time. If you get the bearing hot (or nuts, bolts, pipe) it will come loose. Just put most of the heat on the bearing. You have to get it almost red. If you do it on the truck make sure you don't get the rear crank seal to hot or you will end up with an oil leak.
I would use the spine tool that fit fairly snug in the pilot bushing . I would fill the pilot bushing about 3/4 full ofe grease and smack the spine tool with a hammer . usually the bushing will pop out
Yea my husband sent me this video and expects me to do this by myself and won't even bring me tools where are the damn men I nevermind not here in this damn country
Anybody got the video for a 01 318 nv3500? Or anyone wanna do it for me since I can't find the damn video and I'm not doing it alone I'm a stringbean. 🙅🏻♂️
You don’t need any frame spreader!!! The frame goes out backwards only !!! The truck frame is tapered where the subframe is bolted onto. Just a whack backwards and it’s out. So easy
Liked. Biggest tip I can add is to power wash the motor, trans and the whole are prior to starting. Makes the job much nicer.
FYI: It's Cummins not Cummings, lol.
I applaud you for your effort. Nothing about this video makes me want to do this job myself.
Just wanted to thank you for the great information. I had the damndest time bleeding the slave after 2 hours of pumping, I gave in and got another unit.
Also, if anyone wants to know, this video is very informative for the nv3500 or ram 1500 clutch change.
Thanks again!
19:56
Wish I had seen this before I did my clutch. Kinda pointed out two of my issues and I never realized till now. Awesome information!
Glad was helpful.
You give me the confidence I need to rebuild the nv5600. I appreciate the dedication to camerawork for this one. Thanks 🤘🏼
Any time!
After undoing the 8 bolts for cross member I always take a BFH and pound the cross member back towards the bed. The cross member falls right out. To put back in just hammer it back towards the engine and line holes up. Don't even have to hit it hard at all. (That's with northeast rust) clean frame up and good to go. Saves ya takin the spreader out. And for some of these trucks up here putting a new ventilation hole in the frame lol. Anyways great video!
Just did a 47RE to NV4500 swap on my '00.
Thanks
My uncle was a mechanic and told me that u had to spread the frame. So thats probably the proper way to do it. I have done several by just jacking the back of the trans up, and like he says, tap it up with a hammer and the slide the crossmember out the back. Works great
@@mattgetz8428 that's the easiest way for sure. Most of the time the Ole dodge blew the transmission I just changed it in the driveway haha. Once I got my shop up and running I now spread the frame (looks a little better for customers haha)
@@mattgetz8428 It is easy to get out this way but unless you spread the frame it is very difficult to get back in.
This guys got the coolest ramps ive ever seen!
“If all the screws are out it’s loose” well yeah, that’s normally the case right? 😂❤ thanks for the video dude. Helped us out a bunch
Tip: always change your rear seal if you have the access to do it, because they frequently start leaking around 250K so you might as well avoid having to pull the trans again and another clutch once it leaks all over your new clutch.
Thank you so much for your video. I had to list it in 1.75 speed but it was very informative and I hate having to mechanic on my own stuff but I had to. My first Transmission clutch replacement and everything is going pretty smooth thanks to your video.
If you can get over how heavy it is it's not that bad of a job. Good luck
Great video, but I missed a step. When I opened my eyes 👀 everything was assembled and ready to go!!! Have to view it AGAIN!!! But thank.
One of the best videos I’ve seen by far.
Thank you, I need to replace cab body mounts.Now I have a better idea of what to disconnect from the transmission to allow the cab to lift freely. The info on the drive shaft bearings and carrier bearing is very helpful. First video to subscribe to looking forward to others for help maintaining my dodge
It's also important to mark the orientation of the driveshaft at the differential. Make alignment marks on the differential yoke and the driveshaft yoke so you can put the driveshaft back in the same position. If you don't you can run into vibration problems with your driveshaft.
I have the NV3500 in mine to and it works. way way better then the 46RE on my other truck that blew it's bands/gears. Only thing my manual truck needs is a bleed and possibly a new clutch cable or bearing. mines loose/spongey.
Thank you your video is very clear!
Glade it helped
Great vid. I've got a 98 4x4 that needs a new clutch. Great tip on the slave cylinder and spreading the frame. I have a porta-power which should do the trick. I plan on removing the transfer case from the trans first to lighten the load. I increased power so will be installing a new South Bend clutch. My question: Does the rear of the engine require support during this process or will it stay in place on it's own?
Glad it could help. The engine is petter much balanced and just sits there. It will tilt toward the rear of the truck a little, for me, this helps get the trans out. You might have to use a bottle jack on the engine when you put it back in to get the trans and engine aligned.
One of the best vids I’ve seen also
I have a 1997 Dodge ram 2500 4X 4. It is the 5.9 L. Gasoline engine and my clutch has quit working.How can I tell what's wrong with it, and how do l fix it Any video's on this would greatly appreciate it.
ik this is the nv5600 but i pulled my nv4500 without a jack ..guys if you like your back do not try that at home ..thanks for the vid💯
Thanks for sharing
Hey man I have a question. I have a 5 speed 2000 Dodge Ram Cummins and I was wondering what clutch do you recommend me and do you recommend me doing it myself or talking it to a mechanic?
Rigo what mods have been done to the truck. South bend has a nice clutch kit (flywheel n all included) for like 900.00 good for 450hp 800-900 ft lbs. Minds well while your at it upgrade the hydros for it (fairly cheap). It's every easy to swap these out! Save yourself the money and do it yourself my guy!
Thanks for the video and I subbed your channel
Excellent..thanks.
the space that you mentioned, that is under the shifter boots. I need to replace mine but I cannot find it anywhere. Perhaps I just don't know what it's actually called. Do you have a link or perhaps a part number?
spacer, not space
It is called a TRANSMISSION SHIFT TOWER SPACER. I went through the same thing if you don,t have a good parts man they don't know what you are talking about. If you google TRANSMISSION SHIFT TOWER SPACER a lot will come up.
I have an 04 4X4 2500 with a Hemi. I am not looking forward to this job.
Just a question, Glenn - Is this similar to or the same clutch system that would be found also on Dodge Dakotas - 1993, 3.9L? I have a B.S. Degree in Aviation - engines and body work, I'm good with - Transmissions, I've stayed away from my whole life. I'm 48 now, noisy throw out bearing since before I bought the truck (4 years ago for $500) - with no other problems except this terrible noise. Clutch works fine, no other problems at all (I know, amazing, right?), 260000 miles on the truck w/ a rebuilt engine (also put in before I bought it) - I believe I have an AX15 Transmission, 5 speed, 2wd... There is NOTHING online that isn't a 4wd Dakota, or some other form of dodge. It makes a constant rubbing noise when in gear and clutch engaged and under a load, or negative load condition (coasting, say down a hill in gear) - noise stops when clutch depressed or in a "neutral" load situation (not pulling or breaking w/ engine). Now it's begun making a 'whir" (low pitched, not quite a 'grind' when the clutch is engaged but in neutral... goes away when the pedal is depressed (even slightly - just resting foot on pedal will stop the noise) - so I assume the throw out bearing is dead - time to do a clutch (even though the clutch is technically working fine except for this - but stupid not to do it while up and in there anyway).
When the clutch bearings go bad before the clutch it usually means someone knows how to drive a clutch. Most of the time that is what happens to me. The clutch is not far behind. The Dodge Dakota is very similar. Some of the Dakota uses the same engine and trans as the gas Ram 1500 and 2500. It is not that hard of a job. The worst part of the Dodge Cummins is the weight of the trans. The Dakota won't weigh as much, you can probably pick up the trans by yourself. It will make a good Saturday job, and save some money.
Just picked up a 2000 1500 with the 5.2, same description of noise as yours. We shall see how long I can stand the noise.
to do the rear main seal, do you just take the bell housing out as well?
Very good video sir
Thanks and welcome
Would the weight of the trans pop the cross member out?
Could you tap 1 side of the cross bar up/down forward/backwards and it will come out or no? Just curious, never done any of this...yet!
The cross member is shaped like a V. You can hit it with a hammer to get it out but it it will not go back in that way. You can buy a small jack for around $15. If you have a friend a 2x4 and jack will work, it just takes 3 hands that way.
will this video be helpful for a 1996 1500 318? Not sure of the differences in drivetrain between gas and diesel if there are any
Mostly the trans are different the set up is close to the same.
What is the orientation of the clutch pad plate what to make sure I put it in right as I have had the engine out for a longboard time and don’t remember the orientation
Most clutch plates are marked. Check around the spline of the clutch plate. If not, the springs protrude out more on one side. This goes toward the trans or pressure plate.
How do you keep the flywheel from turning when you're trying to unbolt the bolts I've seen I don't know how many videos and they just skip that part it's kind of important
You can put a breaker bar on the crank shaft bolt in front of the engine and maybe a piece of pipe so it will hit the ground. Probably no one shows this is because they are using a impact that is what I used. You forget not everyone has a impact.
Guys, if y’all have advice, it would be so appreciated. 2002 ram 3500, NV4500, 4x4. New Napa clutch part # NCF 1105181. 99% sure we did not put anything in backwards. 99% sure transfer case is in the correct gear, I can feel the cup for the pivot ball inside where the slave cylinder goes. We have tons of clatter/grinding and have to jam it into gear for 1st or reverse. Once it’s rolling it’s okay. We can shift through all gears with the motor off. We have put two different new pre-filled slave and master cylinder assemblies on, O’reilly part number PFHK9081. We also bled both of them 7 ways from Sunday after trying to install straight out of the box as we are supposed to be able to do. We know for a fact they were 100% bled after we bench bled them. The only thing we can think of is the push rod isn’t getting enough stroke OR the master and slave cylinder is wrong. We had to add a spacer on the starter with the new clutch pack, I guess they had to do that when they “upgraded” the clutches for these trucks, it has us wondering if the OEM slave cylinder needs something similar as well. Absolutely stumped, any advice would be awesome. Thank you
Did you put a new flywheel on? If you did put a new flywheel on did you clean it good? All new flywheels come with a coating on them to keep from rusting until you put them on. I put a Napa clutch on an nv5600 one time and did not like it. It never really worked good and only lasted about 40,000 miles. If you forgot to clean the flywheel or if you did clean the flywheel you can try, giving the truck gas and let the clutch out just enough to rub not enough to go ( burn it a little bit ). Sometimes this helps. If it is chattering it is sticking to the flywheel and or pressure plate burning it will clean it some. After my NV5600 had a new clutch in it for about 20,000 miles it started chattering. I did this (burning it) and it stoped chattering.
My pilot bearing in non existent too is there a easy way of getting that out the extractor isn’t working to well
Sometimes you have to take the flywheel off to git it out. A torch will work, I use it to take things loose all the time. If you get the bearing hot (or nuts, bolts, pipe) it will come loose. Just put most of the heat on the bearing. You have to get it almost red. If you do it on the truck make sure you don't get the rear crank seal to hot or you will end up with an oil leak.
I would use the spine tool that fit fairly snug in the pilot bushing . I would fill the pilot bushing about 3/4 full ofe grease and smack the spine tool with a hammer . usually the bushing will pop out
Yea my husband sent me this video and expects me to do this by myself and won't even bring me tools where are the damn men I nevermind not here in this damn country
Do I need to bleed the clutch master cylinder when changing the clutch?
Not if you don't change the slave or master cylinder
@@Glennfix great thanks
very nice
Thanks
Why not hammer the cross member out
You can to get it out but it wont go back in that way
Anybody got the video for a 01 318 nv3500? Or anyone wanna do it for me since I can't find the damn video and I'm not doing it alone I'm a stringbean. 🙅🏻♂️
Good thing it’s not 4x4
You don’t need any frame spreader!!! The frame goes out backwards only !!! The truck frame is tapered where the subframe is bolted onto. Just a whack backwards and it’s out. So easy