Just a note, our instructor tought us a face shield is not a replacement to safety glasses. It's only supposed to be a suppliment. But I too am loving the new way you edited this video. Keep up the good work, Joe T
Eric. Being a mechanic like you I worked on other peoples equipment for decades. When I got a chance to do my jeep build I enjoyed the challenge and the ability to put all the job knowledge into my own build while also learning a ton. Rebuilding a manual transmission running custom fuel system etc... Granted I wasn't doing it on UA-cam like yourself but I really appreciate viewing your take on a build. Not a tv show take where there a cuts with no real educational value. Your videos are quality and I really enjoy them. I was sad to hear tat others aren't appreciating the Fairmont build but I am glad that you are doing it. From a guy who watched builds in magazines and forums I don't think some people understand the value of watching a in-depth build like you are doing. The details that make all the difference that you are unaware of at the beginning. The uncertainty of the direction it is going and the joy of driving something you put together. I do though so thank you! Also if you run dedicated grounds you will thank yourself later! j/k
Love this video series. Brings back so many child hood memories of my mom's red Fairmont with its decaying viral top, and my dad's Fairmont wagon. I kept trying to get them to let me do these kind of things to their cars. Mom always called the her car the boring mustang.
Of course the fairmont build was/is a long process for eric and us he explained that things were gonna go wrong regardless at the beginning of the build. It's definitely rewarding if you learn from it, there are things you wouldn't learn from repair videos from this and vice versa.
Eric I must say you handled the last week very well. It was smart to air your concerns, you took the feedback and adjusted and I think came out on the other side better.
Man I just found your channel like last week and will say I've probly watched 75 videos within the past week, just the way you work is so relateable to a young technician like myself and watching you work is addicting and an incredible amount of knowledge. One question I have watching all of your videos is I cannot believe you do not use a quarter inch electric impact, I simply cannot imagine myself removing a 10 or 12 mm fastener if it's accessible without my electric impact, it has to be my number one used tool and yet I see you taking off all of these easy bolts with a hand tool, regardless love the channel and your work
Eric love the Video, Nice change in pace. Much more describable and good explanations. Welds don't look bad at all and for a stabilizer bar that's sufficient. From an experienced point of view, slightly wider pattern with a bit faster wire feed will definitely get better penetration on more crucial items. Great Key Reminder- Rapid Buzz Sound, with little to no STUTTER. Look forward to future Video's!
I studied Aircraft Maintenance and I underestimated the amount of work that would go into a car build like this one. WOW. Things are 3-4 times more complicated and frustrated than I initially assumed.
When I built my first car I had adjustable anti (sway) roll bars both front and rear. What I learnt was that the effect of the anti roll bar was independent of the body mounting, and that little or no stress is carried to the body via the mounts. If you find that the roll bar inhibits access to the drain plug on your diff then it should be OK to shim the mounts. In my case I used layers of 1/4" thick high density plastic blocks (Delrin).
That45guy You are not alone. Those of us who are happy for Eric and partly share his patience are very pleased. I find myself checking in every Friday and am over joyed to find any new video, build or repair.
I can't wait for Friday's to get here fast enough because it's a long stretch to a new Fairmont video. I personally like every one of the 'mont videos because it reminds me of the one I built years ago...and makes me want to build another one.
You may want to make a center punch mark on each bracket bolted to the axle tubes and corresponding marks on the axle tubes, you'll find over time after some hard launches with slicks they will possibly move and the marks will give you an easy reference. Personally I'd add some welds but I've been doing this a long time. Just my thoughts.
1. Never owned a Ford 2. Never heard of a fairmont 3. Don't even like Fords. All that being said. I love the Fairmont vids because you truly see the enthusiasm when it comes to turning a wrench. Fixing cars is one thing. Modifying/ personalizing a car is something entirely different.
Loving the Fairmont videos :3 please keep them coming, as I'm sure I speak for most of us when I say we want to see this project car through to the end as much (ok, maybe not *quite* as much as you- but close perhaps?) as you do, Eric ^_^ PS, I can't remember if it was this or another recent video (I'm posting this a few weeks after watching this video) but the tip about WD-40 as a cutting oil for drilling was a lifesaver (and somewhat a time-saver) for me today while I was working on a project that required me to drill through some thick aluminum several times and I had no other kind of oil on hand- thank you for the always helpful shop tips and tricks :)
Is there any reason you can't pivot the bar brackets on the axle so it sits just below the drain plug instead of blocking it? The bar would be just a touch lower, but probably not as low as your torque arm, and it would leave you better access - but it may require repositioning the body mounts a little further forward to compensate for the different position. Btw, not bad with those welds...I'm no expert, but they're certainly looking a lot better, both aesthetically and in terms of penetration.
Yea, the brackets are welded in. ;) That said, I messed around with it off camera quite a bit to get what I got. It really was the best option. I'm not really worried. It's not like I'll be changing the diff fluid every week.
aussiebloke609 That would cause trouble, he's using a pre-made kit not building it from scratch. To change things would alter the geometry of the suspension and cause problems with the motion of other components. When you build yourself you can plan around these things. The kit he's using is a good quality, it should give him good service.
Eric, I have been BINGE watching the Fairmont Series since EPISODE ONE!! (I'm a Disabled Veteran and Retired with lots of time on my hands) Some of this Maximum Motorsports rear Suspension stuff looks REALLY Bulky! (Especially the Pinion Track Arm - although the effectiveness is OBVIOUS) 😲 But the Rear Stabilizer might be the trickest Swaybar Kit I've ever seen!! Being planted to the Body, it's way more effective than any other Fox/SN95 kit I've ever seen! - $420.00 tho!!!
My OCD would be so bad I'd take a grinder or sander to take off all the dirty and rustiness and repaint! I know you were on a time schedule and just want it done
I would love to go with this setup for my foxbody, can't wait to see the results when you get done. The only thing i would be worried about as you mentioned in the video is the stabilizer bar limiting suspension travel and resulting in less grip on the street which is where i will be driving my car 9 times out of 10.
Your videos and information is very invaluable. Thanks again for the learning! People talking crap about hair probably have none....How juvenile! That would be like talking crap about a hole on one finger of your glove.....WHO CARES!!!!!!!!!!!
Smashing install eric, looks fidderly, oh there is bugger all wrong with your welding. Dropping the ratchet is the professional way, keeps the grease moving :).
Fox was 79-93 actually. In case nobody already pointed that out. And the fox chassis continued through 2004 under the SN95 (94-98) and the New Edge (99-04). Ford didn't retire the chassis until the S197s in 05
I am sure that you know this but a theoretically solid anti roll bar will transfer 100% of load/stress from one side of the car to the other and therefore it effectively doubles your spring rate. What you may find is that as you adjust your bar settings from soft to hard to achieve better weight transfer and less lean in the corners that the general ride quality becomes harsher. The ideal is to balance increasingly firmer anti roll settings with softer spring rates. As with so many aspects to car modification if you change one thing you often affect another. I am looking forward to how you are going to feed your exhaust system past all this new kit; side pipes would defeat the 'sleeper' aspect of the car.
I bet you'll be spending so much time tweaking suspension settings ;). Absolutely love the Fairmont vids, I swear I'm more excited for it than you are haha
There is this really great welding tool for closing up gaps like that it's called a hammer. A couple of wacks would have reduced the gap and solved the alignment problems no worries.
At 29:04 Could you have done an adjustment by removing the pinch bolt from the bad side and rotate the arm a notch or two in the spline? Or would that cause issues?
What is the reason for the thick differential cover? The bolt pattern on the back seems to indicate some other pieces of suspension are meant to bolt on to it. Maybe a simpler diffrential cover may provide more clearance. I haven't watched all the Fairmont project videos but want to checkout the modern suspension setup for live axle like the Mustang.
On another note, maybe it's just because I live in south Texas but I see a heater, never seen an A/C. The thought of working in a closed garage with no A/C, makes me crank my A/C up.
It's interesting how the designations of parts differ between English and German. While I was surprised to find translations for "torque arm" and "panhard bar", I also found that the panhard bar is sometime called a "Querlenker", which in English is usually referred to as a control arm (or wishbone), like in front wheel drive vehicles where it's a roughly triangular shaped piece of metal that connects to the body/frame and to the axle via the ball joint. If that makes any sense...?
I'm actually going for the best of both worlds. www.mustangandfords.com/how-to/chassis-suspension/1501-how-to-install-the-ultimate-fox-body-suspension-turn-and-burn/
Eric, for the Driver side attaching the bar to the brackets on the frame. Did you account for the extra weight of when you will be sitting in the car? That might account for the differences in hight on each side.
Hey Eric what are the WFS and the voltage you use on the mig welder. Also from my experience in mig welding holding a shorter stickout will make those intermittent arc go away. Your welds sure have gotten better. When I started mig welding, they gave me a 16" x 10" x 1/2" plate and I welding beads on it all day. The start of the plate looked like a slug and by the end of the plate I was welding dimes.
Eric is there any reason why you did not use packing where the sub frame was off and left a gap? Wouldn't metal packing be stronger then just weld beads around the outside of the torsion bar mounting bracket? In other words, metal pack it and then weld the bracket to the sub frame. Regards Stewart, Australia.
It's not a torsion bar, it's a stabilizer bar. Torsion bars hold up the weight of the vehicle. Stabilizer bars just equalize the suspension. At least that's the way the terminology is in the US. That said, I don't think it'll be an issue. After all, that same bracket was holding the old upper control arm. If it was an issue I would think it would have gotten more stressed by the upper control arm.
EricTheCarGuy No you are right, I meant to say stabilizer bar, but a torsion bar here in Oz is use to limit body roll or rotational movement in the suspension , so I still think we are on the same page but our US /Oz language may differ. Thanks for the reply, Stewart.
Looking good Eric. I have a question in regards to suspension. Have you ever done an air ride conversion on a mopar with torsion bar front suspension? If not, could you do one?
Afterthought - wonder if one couldn't have hammered that factory bracket with the big gap into a more conforming shape, then run some self tapping bolts into those brackets to pull them down to the frame for welding etc.? But than might have put the assembly out of place.
Understood - I wasn't critiquing, just armchair supervising-lol No one knows better whats doable than someone standing in front of it. Ive been mechanical minded all my life and cant resist putting my 2 cents in - even when im wrong-lol I really like that whole rear end setup you've got going, way back when we were playing around with my friends old 383" Roadrunner I remember what a hard time we had keeping that taxicab rear suspension in check when charging through the gears, you really had to know that car or it would bite you in the ass-lol It really could have used something more than the air shocks and traction bars it had-!
If both ends were neutral on the ground at ride height and they didn't line up, it would to be logical as you're not sitting in the car. Did you account for that or was there even a need to account for that?
Hey Eric, why do you not trust toque wrenches? Iv always not trusted them as soon as I first used them. I find it hard to believe when you hardly turn it and it clicks its at toque especially when you do it tight by hand before using it.
hey eric, i looked as if you could have put a c-clamp on that factory metal where you had your gaps and pulled them back into position, is there some reason you didnt? just curious
The driver side length adjustment for the link, shouldn't your weight be in the car because it would change the ride height aka the distance from the frame to the stabilizer bar?
Good point, I forgot about that. He also said that he would re-adjust everything again once the car is drivable so I guess in the end it really doesn't matter until everything is finalized anyways.
![Lp. Сердце Вселенной #60 РОЖДЕНИЕ ЛОЛОЛОШКИ [Финал] • Майнкрафт](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/YoR0pAV9FVQ/mqdefault.jpg)
"Welcome to my rear end" never thought I'd be so interested in your rear end Eric! Great video!
Just a note, our instructor tought us a face shield is not a replacement to safety glasses. It's only supposed to be a suppliment. But I too am loving the new way you edited this video.
Keep up the good work,
Joe T
Eric. Being a mechanic like you I worked on other peoples equipment for decades. When I got a chance to do my jeep build I enjoyed the challenge and the ability to put all the job knowledge into my own build while also learning a ton. Rebuilding a manual transmission running custom fuel system etc... Granted I wasn't doing it on UA-cam like yourself but I really appreciate viewing your take on a build. Not a tv show take where there a cuts with no real educational value. Your videos are quality and I really enjoy them. I was sad to hear tat others aren't appreciating the Fairmont build but I am glad that you are doing it. From a guy who watched builds in magazines and forums I don't think some people understand the value of watching a in-depth build like you are doing. The details that make all the difference that you are unaware of at the beginning. The uncertainty of the direction it is going and the joy of driving something you put together. I do though so thank you! Also if you run dedicated grounds you will thank yourself later! j/k
Thank you for that comment. I really appreciate it.
You are welcome.
Love this video series. Brings back so many child hood memories of my mom's red Fairmont with its decaying viral top, and my dad's Fairmont wagon. I kept trying to get them to let me do these kind of things to their cars. Mom always called the her car the boring mustang.
Of course the fairmont build was/is a long process for eric and us he explained that things were gonna go wrong regardless at the beginning of the build. It's definitely rewarding if you learn from it, there are things you wouldn't learn from repair videos from this and vice versa.
I enjoy the fairmont build and repair videos etc. it's something different.
Thanks.
Dude, with every vid i get more excited to see this old ford bucket on the road.
I've never seen a fairmont in real life.
Eric I must say you handled the last week very well. It was smart to air your concerns, you took the feedback and adjusted and I think came out on the other side better.
Thanks. I think you'll see it even more in next weeks video. Thanks again for the feedback.
Man I just found your channel like last week and will say I've probly watched 75 videos within the past week, just the way you work is so relateable to a young technician like myself and watching you work is addicting and an incredible amount of knowledge. One question I have watching all of your videos is I cannot believe you do not use a quarter inch electric impact, I simply cannot imagine myself removing a 10 or 12 mm fastener if it's accessible without my electric impact, it has to be my number one used tool and yet I see you taking off all of these easy bolts with a hand tool, regardless love the channel and your work
I like the new introduction, short and gets people up to speed. Keep up the good work!
Eric love the Video, Nice change in pace. Much more describable and good explanations. Welds don't look bad at all and for a stabilizer bar that's sufficient. From an experienced point of view, slightly wider pattern with a bit faster wire feed will definitely get better penetration on more crucial items. Great Key Reminder- Rapid Buzz Sound, with little to no STUTTER.
Look forward to future Video's!
Welds are getting so much beter Eric! Nice job!
I absolutely love the fairmont project and I cannot wait to see it done. It's going to be one badass car!!
I like the new employee, seems competent...but get him a hat.
I studied Aircraft Maintenance and I underestimated the amount of work that would go into a car build like this one. WOW. Things are 3-4 times more complicated and frustrated than I initially assumed.
Eric is certainly raising the bar on his Fairmont mods.
Nice!
Nice rear end. Now that its set up, you're gonna find that your rear end doesn't "twerk" around near as much as before.
Great video and explanations!
When I built my first car I had adjustable anti (sway) roll bars both front and rear. What I learnt was that the effect of the anti roll bar was independent of the body mounting, and that little or no stress is carried to the body via the mounts. If you find that the roll bar inhibits access to the drain plug on your diff then it should be OK to shim the mounts. In my case I used layers of 1/4" thick high density plastic blocks (Delrin).
Im not even a Ford fan but I have watched from the start. Be Proud!
I love this Fairmont build, it is nice to see something being modded that isn't a JDM rice rocket.
JDM Fanboy Triggered.
Am I the only one who gets excited for fairmont vids? Really dont understand the mass whining
YEP, people don't care about his lavish project. Don't ask me for any money for your channel or whatever.
lavish? LOL, jealous much?
Sure sounds like it.
yea, those are the only ones I really watch...
That45guy
You are not alone. Those of us who are happy for Eric and partly share his patience are very pleased. I find myself checking in every Friday and am over joyed to find any new video, build or repair.
lovin the Fairmont vids keep up the good work.
that rear end is looking tasty eric, i love the fairmont bro!
The sound of your videos has improved a lot Sir!
Love the new intro screen, text, and colour scheme. Yes, I said COLOUR. (Hello from Toronto, ON)
I Liked the format you did for this video, laying everything out in the beginning.
I can't wait for Friday's to get here fast enough because it's a long stretch to a new Fairmont video. I personally like every one of the 'mont videos because it reminds me of the one I built years ago...and makes me want to build another one.
leemer1 well said! I agree about TGIF
Loving the new format Eric. I watched this one and thought - I can do that!
You may want to make a center punch mark on each bracket bolted to the axle tubes and corresponding marks on the axle tubes, you'll find over time after some hard launches with slicks they will possibly move and the marks will give you an easy reference. Personally I'd add some welds but I've been doing this a long time. Just my thoughts.
1. Never owned a Ford
2. Never heard of a fairmont
3. Don't even like Fords.
All that being said. I love the Fairmont vids because you truly see the enthusiasm when it comes to turning a wrench. Fixing cars is one thing. Modifying/ personalizing a car is something entirely different.
You mean there's such thing as mig welding that isn't covered in splattery goodness?
Lookin' good Eric!
I'm really loving this series Eric!
I love the energy, and the project is looking great. Keep up the great work
Loving the Fairmont videos :3 please keep them coming, as I'm sure I speak for most of us when I say we want to see this project car through to the end as much (ok, maybe not *quite* as much as you- but close perhaps?) as you do, Eric ^_^
PS, I can't remember if it was this or another recent video (I'm posting this a few weeks after watching this video) but the tip about WD-40 as a cutting oil for drilling was a lifesaver (and somewhat a time-saver) for me today while I was working on a project that required me to drill through some thick aluminum several times and I had no other kind of oil on hand- thank you for the always helpful shop tips and tricks :)
Eric, I think you need a couple of more bars covering the rear dif lol.
At least it has a drain plug. ;)
some good welds there Eric . keep these Fairmont project clips coming. great work you do . #fordman #Aussie ford man ;)
Is there any reason you can't pivot the bar brackets on the axle so it sits just below the drain plug instead of blocking it? The bar would be just a touch lower, but probably not as low as your torque arm, and it would leave you better access - but it may require repositioning the body mounts a little further forward to compensate for the different position. Btw, not bad with those welds...I'm no expert, but they're certainly looking a lot better, both aesthetically and in terms of penetration.
Yea, the brackets are welded in. ;) That said, I messed around with it off camera quite a bit to get what I got. It really was the best option. I'm not really worried. It's not like I'll be changing the diff fluid every week.
aussiebloke609 That would cause trouble, he's using a pre-made kit not building it from scratch. To change things would alter the geometry of the suspension and cause problems with the motion of other components. When you build yourself you can plan around these things. The kit he's using is a good quality, it should give him good service.
I like the project car work along with working on the costumer cars, I find them enjoyable.
Eric, I have been BINGE watching the Fairmont Series since EPISODE ONE!! (I'm a Disabled Veteran and Retired with lots of time on my hands)
Some of this Maximum Motorsports rear Suspension stuff looks REALLY Bulky! (Especially the Pinion Track Arm - although the effectiveness is OBVIOUS) 😲
But the Rear Stabilizer might be the trickest Swaybar Kit I've ever seen!! Being planted to the Body, it's way more effective than any other Fox/SN95 kit I've ever seen!
- $420.00 tho!!!
That bite out of the washer is for clearance there Clarence
the suspension is looking awesome!!! that cae is going to be a beast
There are is a lot going on with that rear suspension. I like seeing this and learning about this.
"Take it away, Eric without a hat" This will be one of the great moments in UA-cam history.
Eric your welds look so much better... nice!
thank you for for sharing Thais complete and awesome series. Neverl see this before on internet! Tânia alot.
Love your new video title convention! Also, Eric without a hat - nice!
My OCD would be so bad I'd take a grinder or sander to take off all the dirty and rustiness and repaint! I know you were on a time schedule and just want it done
I keep staring at you without a hat, its memorizing.
I would love to go with this setup for my foxbody, can't wait to see the results when you get done. The only thing i would be worried about as you mentioned in the video is the stabilizer bar limiting suspension travel and resulting in less grip on the street which is where i will be driving my car 9 times out of 10.
The good part is it's adjustable. You can set it up for the street or the track. You can also change bars since everything else is already in place.
holy crap eric that suspension is looking beautiful
Your videos and information is very invaluable. Thanks again for the learning! People talking crap about hair probably have none....How juvenile! That would be like talking crap about a hole on one finger of your glove.....WHO CARES!!!!!!!!!!!
Smashing install eric, looks fidderly, oh there is bugger all wrong with your welding.
Dropping the ratchet is the professional way, keeps the grease moving :).
"Dropping the ratchet is the professional way, keeps the grease moving :)" I like that.
I thought that Eric's hat was a part of his skull... didn't know it can be removed.
Fox was 79-93 actually. In case nobody already pointed that out. And the fox chassis continued through 2004 under the SN95 (94-98) and the New Edge (99-04). Ford didn't retire the chassis until the S197s in 05
i love watching some build a race car as much seeing it in action
Good looking welds. nicely done.
I am sure that you know this but a theoretically solid anti roll bar will transfer 100% of load/stress from one side of the car to the other and therefore it effectively doubles your spring rate. What you may find is that as you adjust your bar settings from soft to hard to achieve better weight transfer and less lean in the corners that the general ride quality becomes harsher. The ideal is to balance increasingly firmer anti roll settings with softer spring rates. As with so many aspects to car modification if you change one thing you often affect another. I am looking forward to how you are going to feed your exhaust system past all this new kit; side pipes would defeat the 'sleeper' aspect of the car.
Damn dood your welds look pretty good!
Fix Or Repair Daily = Ford, keep the videos coming!
nice weld Erik
Very nice and clear video, thanks! Waiting for the next one....
Hey Eric I noticed that one of the links isn't exactly straight. Maybe removing some of the washers on the bottom of the link will correct the issue
I started watching and realized it was about the Fairmont and I'm still going through the Fairmont Playlist!! #spoileralert
I've caught up!
30:50, sorry if I missed something, but why is one side that far off? Differences in spring tower height when made?
I bet you'll be spending so much time tweaking suspension settings ;). Absolutely love the Fairmont vids, I swear I'm more excited for it than you are haha
Yes, I will.
The washer "bites" are to accomodate the radius of the bracket.
There is this really great welding tool for closing up gaps like that it's called a hammer.
A couple of wacks would have reduced the gap and solved the alignment problems no worries.
Eric without a hat? SOMEONE ALERT THE POPE!
At 29:04 Could you have done an adjustment by removing the pinch bolt from the bad side and rotate the arm a notch or two in the spline? Or would that cause issues?
Ah just answered myself..It wouldn't be level anymore..dumb moment
Eric yet another well done and very cool Fairmont vid. I liked it a lot
Great video Eric. Thanks.
I'm jealous of all those new nuts and bolts...coming out so easy...*cries*
hey Eric, before you installed the ford 8.8 solid live axle. have you ever thought about installing a independent rear suspension?
Yes, but it's twice, or sometimes 3 times as expensive and from what I read, the improvements weren't all that great.
What is the reason for the thick differential cover? The bolt pattern on the back seems to indicate some other pieces of suspension are meant to bolt on to it. Maybe a simpler diffrential cover may provide more clearance. I haven't watched all the Fairmont project videos but want to checkout the modern suspension setup for live axle like the Mustang.
Good Morning ETCG. What magic do you for us today?
On another note, maybe it's just because I live in south Texas but I see a heater, never seen an A/C. The thought of working in a closed garage with no A/C, makes me crank my A/C up.
Thanks for another vid and keep up the great work
Love these videos Eric!
Another great video! Thanks Eric! :)
Is this one of the "new" editing format? If so I'm only 1/4 into it and enjoying it immensely better. Keep up the good work!
It's the first, yes. I'm still dialing it in but I like it better too. Glad you like it. Thanks for the feedback.
Happy to, it definitely flows better, a lot more lively.
It really looks fresh, and a bit more engaging I think is the word I'm looking for. More like Eric is hanging out with us.
It's interesting how the designations of parts differ between English and German. While I was surprised to find translations for "torque arm" and "panhard bar", I also found that the panhard bar is sometime called a "Querlenker", which in English is usually referred to as a control arm (or wishbone), like in front wheel drive vehicles where it's a roughly triangular shaped piece of metal that connects to the body/frame and to the axle via the ball joint. If that makes any sense...?
You will be doing a lot of adjustments to make it hook up on hard launches, but may not be the best on a curve.
I'm actually going for the best of both worlds. www.mustangandfords.com/how-to/chassis-suspension/1501-how-to-install-the-ultimate-fox-body-suspension-turn-and-burn/
Hey Eric, seeing how there are so many U-bolts involved, perhaps you could mention once or twice what's the best way to tighten them down? ;)
Like always very good video (thank you Brian),, good information and let me tell you very good class thank you Eric ,
Eric, for the Driver side attaching the bar to the brackets on the frame. Did you account for the extra weight of when you will be sitting in the car? That might account for the differences in hight on each side.
Hey Eric what are the WFS and the voltage you use on the mig welder. Also from my experience in mig welding holding a shorter stickout will make those intermittent arc go away. Your welds sure have gotten better. When I started mig welding, they gave me a 16" x 10" x 1/2" plate and I welding beads on it all day. The start of the plate looked like a slug and by the end of the plate I was welding dimes.
You could probably enter this car in the Daytona 500 next year. The bottom of the car looks so beautiful, I'd be afraid to drive it and get it dirty !
You did a pretty good installation video. Having a hoist sure makes the job easier.When will you doing a test drive?
Wouldn't the rear sway from Maximum motorsports eliminate the need for a pan hard bar and torque arm?
Eric is there any reason why you did not use packing where the sub frame was off and left a gap? Wouldn't metal packing be stronger then just weld beads around the outside of the torsion bar mounting bracket? In other words, metal pack it and then weld the bracket to the sub frame. Regards Stewart, Australia.
It's not a torsion bar, it's a stabilizer bar. Torsion bars hold up the weight of the vehicle. Stabilizer bars just equalize the suspension. At least that's the way the terminology is in the US. That said, I don't think it'll be an issue. After all, that same bracket was holding the old upper control arm. If it was an issue I would think it would have gotten more stressed by the upper control arm.
EricTheCarGuy No you are right, I meant to say stabilizer bar, but a torsion bar here in Oz is use to limit body roll or rotational movement in the suspension , so I still think we are on the same page but our US /Oz language may differ. Thanks for the reply, Stewart.
Looking good Eric. I have a question in regards to suspension. Have you ever done an air ride conversion on a mopar with torsion bar front suspension? If not, could you do one?
Nice job, Eric!
I want to ask something: is this a ballast beneath the axle at 0:27?
That rear end looks tight, man! Tight as a tiger!
Afterthought - wonder if one couldn't have hammered that factory bracket with the big gap into a more conforming shape, then run some self tapping bolts into those brackets to pull them down to the frame for welding etc.? But than might have put the assembly out of place.
No real room to swing a hammer. As long as there's something for the bracket to attach to and it's secure, it should be fine. Thanks for the comment.
Understood - I wasn't critiquing, just armchair supervising-lol No one knows better whats doable than someone standing in front of it. Ive been mechanical minded all my life and cant resist putting my 2 cents in - even when im wrong-lol I really like that whole rear end setup you've got going, way back when we were playing around with my friends old 383" Roadrunner I remember what a hard time we had keeping that taxicab rear suspension in check when charging through the gears, you really had to know that car or it would bite you in the ass-lol It really could have used something more than the air shocks and traction bars it had-!
No worries. Thanks for your input. That Roadrunner sounds like it was a real handful. Not to mention fun.
Fox bodies on Mustangs went from '79-'93, not '92. '94 is when they introduced the SN95 chassis.
Thanks for that clarification. The SN95 used the same rear end set up I believe.
You are correct. The rear end is the same from 79-04 mustangs. Just wanted to point out that clarification with the chassis, was all.
NP, thanks!
If both ends were neutral on the ground at ride height and they didn't line up, it would to be logical as you're not sitting in the car. Did you account for that or was there even a need to account for that?
Eric, why does the pigtail of the spring needs to point to the back? I always just trow them under the car....
That's what the instructions said to do. I suppose it's what they feel is the optimum position.
Thank you for explaining :-)
Is it possible that you put the arms back on a tooth or two off? would account for the discrepancy
Hey Eric, why do you not trust toque wrenches? Iv always not trusted them as soon as I first used them. I find it hard to believe when you hardly turn it and it clicks its at toque especially when you do it tight by hand before using it.
I never said I didn't trust torque wrenches, I said I was nervous about using them since this. ua-cam.com/video/b8E4XV4cUWc/v-deo.html
Rad install, nice welds!!!
Awesome video Eric!!!!!
hey eric, i looked as if you could have put a c-clamp on that factory metal where you had your gaps and pulled them back into position, is there some reason you didnt? just curious
The driver side length adjustment for the link, shouldn't your weight be in the car because it would change the ride height aka the distance from the frame to the stabilizer bar?
he mentioned using "ballast/weights" equaling driver weight on the seat and more equaling gas/tank in place of it.near start of video.
Good point, I forgot about that. He also said that he would re-adjust everything again once the car is drivable so I guess in the end it really doesn't matter until everything is finalized anyways.